MATT FITZSIMMONS
GRAPEVINE
SIC SEMPE RW
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ost American wine regions have a signature grape. For Napa, it’s Cabernet Sauvignon. In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir dominates. New York’s Finger Lakes are famous for Riesling. Yet Virginia doesn’t have its own defining grape or style – and this is a good thing. VA is a relatively young wine region so growers are still learning what performs best. Viognier was temporarily the ‘official’ state grape but was quietly dropped when wine growers pushed back. Cabernet Franc is sometimes considered as a replacement, but so far hasn’t received any special endorsement. Some argue the lack of a signature Virginia ‘brand’ that consumers can
Understanding Virginia’s Diversity in Wine
easily identify hurts the state’s visibility in the larger wine market. But Virginia’s landscape is too varied to be defined by a single terroir, and too young to have a signature style of winemaking. This means branding Virginia with any overarching label likely does the industry a disservice. So if Virginia lacks a defining grape, then what is it known for? The short answer is this – Virginia is known for its diversity. When planted in the right location, we can grow nearly everything. There are over 100 grape varieties planted in the state, ranging from internationally famous varieties to obscure vines the world has nearly forgotten. No matter where the grape is from, there’s probably a Virginia vineyard growing it. As a newer, less defined wine region, Virginia also has the luxury to experiment with varieties that wouldn’t get a second look elsewhere in the United States, and may be forbidden under Europe’s much tighter winemaking rules. This allows VA to pioneer lesser-known wines such as Petit Manseng and Petit Verdot, high-acid
grapes that do well in Virginia’s terroir. So for Virginia Wine Month, let’s celebrate the diversity of Virginia wine. Here are four varieties that wine lovers probably don’t realize can be found in Virginia, but need to try.
accident. When Christine & Dennis Vrooman purchased the property they hadn’t planned on building a vineyard, but loved Virginia wine so much they decided to give it a shot. After some research they were advised their special microclimate gave them the ability to plant grapes that wouldn’t thrive anywhere else. So by good fortune, Pinot Noir was planted. The secret to Pinot Noir’s success here is elevation. At 1800 feet they are able to avoid the heat and humidity that would stunt Pinot’s growth most anywhere else in the state. Now, they are Virginia’s most famous Pinot makers. They also make a delicious Pinot Noir Rosé and Chardonnay.
Ankida Ridge’s Pinot Noir Ankida’s name is based on a Sumerian term for ‘where heaven and earth join’. It’s an apt description; located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Ankida one of the highest elevation wineries in the state. It’s also home to one of the best Pinot Noirs in the country. This may be a bold statement, but they have the credentials to back it up. When Ankida participated in the 2016 International Pinot Noir Conference, they were the first mid-Atlantic producer to be invited. A year later, Wine Business Monthly named Ankida Ridge one of the top wine brands of the year. As with many Virginia wine stories, the path to starting a vineyard – much less with one of the world’s most finicky varieties – happened almost by
A Family Legacy of Virginia Wine Excellence
Arterra Winery’s Chenin Blanc Arterra’s wines stand out due to owner/winemaker Jason Murray signature style, which he refers to as ‘clean wine’. This style includes the use of GRAPEVINE > PAGE 37
4366 Stillhouse Road, Hume, Virginia 22639 540.364.1203 pcwinery.com Hours: Sun - Fri: 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM
A Family Legacy of Virginia Wine Excellence
36 | October 2021 4366 Stillhouse Road, Hume, Virginia 22639 | 540.364.1203 | pcwinery.com | Hours: Sun - Fri: 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM, Sat: 11:00AM to 7:00PM Please check website and social media for seasonal hours
Sat: 11:00AM to 7:00PM Please check website and social media for seasonal hours
Old Town Crier
