ANGST Magazine

NOVEMBER 2019

OUR MAGAZINE. YOUR VOICE.

AWSTEN KNIGHT reveals the struggles in writing Waterparks’ new record, FANDOM.

ANGST / Table of Contents

ang st NOVEMBER 2019

NEW NOISE

GET OUT THERE!

14 Girl Power 18 Summer Releases 20 A Future Generation 24 Artist of the Mouth

44 Beyond The Board 46 In The Pit 50 Satisfying Substitutes

KEEP WITH IT 30 Timeless Classics 34 Modern Methods 36 The New Black 40 Strut Your Stuff 4 ANGST

ANGST / Table of Contents

FEATURES LOOK BACK

TRENDS

52 UNDER THE GUN

72 THE NEW CLASSIC

Explore how exactly tattoos got under our skin in the first place.

How the denim jacket is still a staple in our wardrobes today, like it was 50 years ago.

RELIEF

SNAPSHOT

62 FREE SPIRIT

80 REVIVAL

Read about different ways skating can relieve your mind and your body.

The return of 35mm photography sparked a revival of authenticity.

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ang st Vol. 1 Issue 8

November 2019 EDITOR IN CHIEF Jake Silverstein DEPUTY EDITORS Jessica Lustig, Bill Wasik MANAGING EDITOR Erika Sommer DESIGN DIRECTOR Gail Bichler DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Kathy Ryan ART DIRECTOR Matt Willey FEATURES EDITOR Ilena Silverman DIGITAL DIRECTOR Blake Wilson STORY EDITORS Nitsuh Abebe, Mike Benoist, Sheila Glaser, Claire Gutierrez, Jazmine Hughes, Luke Mitchell, Dean Robinson, Willy Staley DIGITAL ART DIRECTOR Kate LaRue DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Ben Grandgenett DESIGNERS Claudia Rubín, Rachel Willey DEPUTY DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jessica Dimson SENIOR PHOTO EDITORS Stacey Baker, Amy Kellner PHOTO ASSISTANT Pia Peterson HEAD OF RESEARCH Nandi Rodrigo

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ANGST / Contributors

meet us The contributors who helped make this magazine happen.

Chris Arencibia IG: @CYANKEEFAN

Writer Chris is a writer living in Philadelphia, PA. Chris found his passion for writing when he was in high school. In his free time, he enjoys watching baseball games. He currently studies Music Industry at Drexel University.

Laurie Laino IG: @LAURAINELAINO

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Evie Scott IG: @EVIESANIDIOT

Writer + Photographer Evie is a writer and photographer based in New York, NY. Evie has been taking photos for the majority of her life but just recently began to write.

When she has free time, she likes to go for walks and watch movies. She studies Music Industry at Drexel University.

Kaylie Minogue IG: @KAYLIEMINOGUE

Writer + Photographer

Writer

Laurie is a writer and photographer residing in New York City. She is currently a film student at the School of Visual arts, however she just began to dabble in photography and writing in her free time.

Kaylie is a writer based in Philadelphia, PA. She has had a passion for writing her entire life. Kaylie enjoys going to art galleries and the orchestra when she has free time. She also studies Music Industry at Drexel University.

INTERESTED IN JOINING OUR TEAM? Shoot us an email at editor@magazine.com!

new noise

Find the music to listen to this month.

08

GIRL POWER

12

SUMMER RELEASES

14

A FUTURE GENERATION

20

ARTIST OF THE MONTH 13

New Noise / Girl Power

RIGHT: CLAIRO BELOW: KING PRINCESS

GIRL POWER From Ariana Grande to Lizzo, this year is all about female artists remaking the music biz.

By Evie Scott

W HEY YOU 14 ANGST

Cast your vote on who your favorite up and coming female artist is on our website! www.angstmag.com

hen Ariana Grande issued thank u, next earlier this month, she was staying true to a long-held promise. In a move rarely seen from an artist of imposing status, the album marked the pop enchanter’s second studio release in just six months. (Her previous album, Sweetener, dropped last August.) Still, if you’ve followed the whirlwind that is Grande’s day to day, new songs made perfect sense. In an interview with Billboard, she expressed a desire “to put out music in the way that a rapper does.”

The goal, Grande contends, is to dispose of a double standard that has contaminated the music industry for decades. “I just want to fucking talk to my fans and sing and write music and drop it the way these boys do,” she explained of the release schedule

New Noise / Girl Power women artists are often held to. As she tells it, men are allowed much more freedom with album rollouts. “Why do they get to make records like that and I don’t? So I do and I did and I am, and I will continue to.”

The assertion detonated in the form of prophecy: No longer will music’s center hold. And no longer will women like Grande let it. Elsewhere, pop aspirants of uncanny talent— Noname, Cardi B, Mitski, Hayley Kiyoko, Rico Nasty, and Tierra Whack among them—are demonstrating an immodest, near-singular, anti-populist aptitude for industry-wide reinvention.

Collectively, their work suggests not a move toward a new center but a removal of it altogether. It augurs a year wherein women will further dominate the charts and anchor the cultural conversation. They’re not just taking the reins; they’re showing us, in form and theme, that to embrace the industry’s conventional structures is to bet on a decaying establishment.

In many ways, it’s just a beginning. Or a restart. As more women artists like BbyMutha, Lor Choc, and Kali Uchis infiltrate the mainstream, we’ll be thankful we have their voices to lean on. Without a center, without the old structures of the music biz in place—and with artists like Grande sidestepping them altogether—we can begin to look elsewhere. To seek out artists of all colors, religions, sexualities.

To find new sanctuaries of sound. In April, Minneapolis-via-Houston rapper Lizzo will release her third studio album, Cuz I Love You. This week she posted the cover art across social media and premiered the project’s eponymous music video to the delight of fans. In an interview with The Cut she described the project as “if Aretha Franklin made a ratchet-ass rap album in 2019.” It was all I needed to hear.

“WHY DO THEY GET TO MAKE RECORDS LIKE THAT AND I DON’T?”

Today, in music, to long for a center is to misunderstand where music itself is headed. Consider Tierra Whack, the Philadelphia shape-shifter who interrogated the complex and curious tangle of our age with Whack World.

Released last May, the project was blistering and spare—its 15 songs were capped at one minute apiece. It was a sly, challenging experiment as much as it was a deeply engaging one (almost perfectly suited for our internet-addled consumption habits). When Whack spoke with The New York Times, she detailed the physical and emotional boundaries of her impressionistic world as “down, then up, down, then up. It’s scary, it feels good, it doesn’t.

It’s crazy, it’s calm. It’s everything.

That’s exactly me.” A pocket-sized masterpiece, the album remains one of 2018’s most surprising concepts, its existence seeming to destabilize pop music’s natural bent toward maximalist narratives. Here was Whack, in her miniature universe, dreaming and building and wandering, just being herself.

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PICTURED: LIZZO

New Noise / Summer Releases

Summer may be coming to a close, but songs will last forever. Here are our highlights of summer releases.

By Chris Arencibia

SUMMER

RELEASES 1.

Post Malone - Hollywood’s Bleeding Rating: At times he sounds like Julian Casablancas.

At others he sounds like ‘70s FM radio. This accomplished and eclectic record, though, could only come from Post Malone.

2.

Cage the Elephant - Social Cues Rating: Having spent their glittering career dancing through different sounds, Cage The Elephant truly find themselves on this mature, widescreen fifth album.

3.

HUNNY - Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Rating: The debut album has some of their greatest works to date. The band was able to play with their sound and stay true to the music we’ve come to know them for.

4.

The Band Camino - tryhard Rating: While the majority of the writing on this album isn’t overly original, all of the songs have catchy hooks, which make for a pleasant alt-rock/pop vibe.

5.

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Tyler, the Creator - IGOR Rating: ‘IGOR’ is an accomplished and evergreen record that’s well worth putting your phone down, turning the TV off and devoting your full attention span to.

New Noise / A Future Generation

A FUTURE

GENERATION

T

he music and dance have been the part of human communication since the dawn of history. There is no scientific explanation of how exactly music became an inalienable component of the life.

However, there is no doubt: humanity creates the music and music created humanity. This article discovers the history, current development, and future of music delivery, where music gets under the skin transforming the experience into exciting DIY adventure.

The nearest future is predefined with evolving streaming services and tight competition on the market. The success of the music streaming is an undoubtful and long-awaited breakthrough in the entertaining industry. What is the secret of streaming? The seamless connection through the multiple devices, constant access to the endless digital collection, and personalized algorithms to recommend clients the most suitable tracks. The sharing economy and digitalization are so deeply implemented in daily life that the streaming services, music, movies or any other, will continue being in demand.

The streaming revenues only in the US grew 30 percent in 2015. Spotify increased its subscription value by 66 percent from 2014 worldwide. At the same time, the market of streaming music is tight with Spotify as a confident leader with 30 million subscribers. Second, with 11 million subscribers, is Apple Music. The other players, including Jay-Z’s re-launched Tidal,

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How will the music industry evolve with technology? have approximately the tenth of leaders share – 3 million clients.

Notwithstanding the popularity of streaming services, artists are losing profits in the digital sphere. Re-launched Tidal opposes the current development and offers the highest payoffs to artists comparing to competitors’ rates. Jay-Z, the current owner of the company, states that Tidal is here to “restore the value to music by launching a service owned by artists.” The list of coowners of the service is growing all the time.

For today, the biggest names in the list are Jay-Z himself, Beyoncé, Prince, Rihanna, Kanye West, Nicki Minaj, Daft Punk, Madonna and other kings and queens of pop culture. The idea of the empowerment of the artists, giving them more control and revenue from the music they produce, is supposed to attract more producer centers for exclusive product provision. Tidal is a reasonable solution for the digital market.

Especially after the question of the payment to the artists have been raised publically,

By Kaylie Minogue

New Noise / A Future Generation

A COLLECTION OF OLD POP PUNK CD’S

particularly by Tailor Swift in the open letter to Apple music. The expected result is the higher quality of music driven by the financial motivation of the artists. Therefore, in the nearest future, where the profits and industry will grow, the world will see larger variety and more innovations in the sphere.

How will the industry adopt new technologies like virtual reality?

Combination the technology with digitalization and cloud services was offered

by Facundo Diaz, the CEO of Virtify.

Virtify is a virtual reality music platform, which has already gained the status of revolutionary in audio tech. The platform will create new experiences in music allowing users to attend live concerts virtually.

Will it give the feeling of physically being there? Probably not. However, with the development of virtual reality technology and its popularity, Virtify is expected to raise up to $25 million this year. The launch will most likely be partnered with Spotify, so subscribers will be able to choose between ordinary and immersive experience.

Altogether, the marketing will evolve along with virtual reality platform, and musicvideo experience will become augmented.

Universal Music Group and iHeartMedia announced a new partnership to develop immersive music experiences.

The service will include the live concerts broadcasts including backstage and other footage. Users will be able to get closer to the artists than it has been available ever before. John Sykes, president of entertainment enterprises for iHeartMedia, comments: “We want not only make the experience better for the fans in the venue but to create moments that could not exist for fan watching and listening outside the venue.”

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Future scientific development is all about enhancing the human experiences.

With the healthcare advancements and better knowledge of the human body will trigger new ways to deliver the music.

The music in the future will respond to the bodies, moods. For instance, using the wearable technologies, devices will recognize the state of mind and play the track complementing the moment. It is the new level of personalization. Music will change depending on how hard the person is exercising or changes according to how human feels. Moreover, the combination of Internet of Things with music delivery creates biometric media which can read the collective moods and be customized to a crowd of people using the data on the collective heartbeat.

Another path of development is the empowerment of the human in music creation. Everyone can create the tune by body movement. Nowadays, the innovative ways of music recording and construction are presented only in the world of art.

However, the roots of innovation usually come from the creative street artists to mass market. One of the examples is PietrJan Pietr’s Sound on Intuition project, which transforms body movement into the music.

OLD CASSETTE TAPES

‘TRAUMA’

FEATURING “BREAKING DOWN” & “BOW DOWN”

OUT NOW

New Noise / Artist of the Month

THE BAND

CAMINO Artist of the Month

By Laurie Laino

S The Band CAMINO - tryhard Available on all platforms now.

IG: @thebandcamino Twitter: @thebandcamino

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elf-described as “your mom’s favorite band,” The Band CAMINO is certainly one of our favorite bands. These alternative rockers are veritable masters at adding splashes of modernity to timeless rock ‘n’ roll soundscapes that are just too irresistible. Now, The Band CAMINO is done teasing us with a string of single releases, each better than the last, and are finally treating us to the EP we have all been begging for: tryhard.

Following their recent signing with Elektra Records, The Band CAMINO is ready to dominate the alternative rock scene with their new release. Comprised of Jeffery Jordan, Graham Rowell, Spencer Stewart, and Garrison Burgess, these talented fellas are known for putting their heads together to compose lovelorn tunes surrounding perseverance and personal

New Noise / Artist of the Month

growth. Their fantastic new EP, tryhard, proves the rising band’s commitment to their craft and more.

The eight-track collection illustrates The Band CAMINO’s ability to continue evolving in an everchanging music scene. With pulsating drums in powerful tracks like “What I Want” and “Hush Hush,” tryhard uncovers a harder-hitting side of The Band CAMINO that we simply cannot get enough of. On the other hand, we discover a more vulnerable side of the quartet in heart-on-sleeve tracks like “Haunted” and “Break Me.” There is an infectious juxtaposition on display here.

Although The Band CAMINO takes pride in their classic rock instrumentals, they also adore rich synthesizers and captivating

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“SOMEWHERE ALONG THE WAY, PEOPLE HAVE CALLED US TRYHARDS.”

electronics–like we observe in “Honest.” A fan favorite off the record, “Daphne Blue” is an accurate definition of electric guitar riffs galore and the eye-opening “See Through” serves as the perfect balance of pop and alternative rock The Band CAMINO has to offer the world at large.

On tryhard, The Band CAMINO shared, “Somewhere along the way people have called us ‘tryhards,’ thinking we took ourselves too seriously or were trying to be something we weren’t. Of course, we are tryhards.

The entire reason we’re here is to create something bigger than ourselves. A lot of times people use ‘tryhard’ in a derogatory sense, but we’d rather own the fact that we’ve given every ounce of ourselves to making this music.”

keep with it

Get with the program and learn about current trends.

26

TIMELESS CLASSICS

30

STRUT YOUR STUFF

32

THE NEW BLACK

36

MODERN METHODS

29

Keep With It / Timeless Classics

HEY YOU

timeless CLASSICS Our go-to guide on different pairs of Vans and the best ways to style them.

By Kaylie Minogue

V

ans have been a classic staple within the skating community for years, but like many iconic fashion pieces, they’ve found a way to slip into the mainstream.

Let’s start with the basic design and one that became the uniform for skater kids around the US. With their iconic shape, versatile look and comfortable finish, they’re the perfect addition to any casual outfit. Grab them in plain, minimalist designs, patterned numbers or the classic checkboard pattern designed by Steve Van Doran. With so many looks on offer, it’s easy to customise the look to suit you.

The beauty of the Vans slip-on is that they are the model with ease.

Easy-going to throw on the last minute rush and essentially easy to dress up and dress down, the slip-on can become an ultimate addition for your wardrobe.

For us, we like to pair our slip-ons with more of a relaxed, yet contemporary look. While the shoe is minimal in design detail keep your outfit consistently the same. For this, when opting for the classic black slip-on take advantage of pairing it with neutral tones for a muted look. To build the look, throw on longline T-shirt and a pair of Levi’s jeans. This outfit is the definition

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Post a photo of your favorite pair of Vans on Instagram and tag us for a chance to be featured in our next issue! @angstmag

Keep With It / Timeless Classics A WOMAN WEARING VANS SK8-HI SHOES

of comfort and evidently easy to layer throughout the colder seasons.

The ‘Old Skool’ style is a slightly chunkier plimsoll with leather and suede detailing and a thick gum sole. Unlike more casual styles, the Old Skool, with a distinctly retro feel, can be dressed up a little more than most Vans footwear.

Known as the first Vans shoe to feature the iconic side (or ‘jazz’ stripe) that has become so synonymous with the Vans sneaker today. The classic

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black Old Skool is probably the most iconic model from the Vans archive. A classic for skating and BMX scene it was also adopted by figureheads of punk rock.

Despite its distinct look, there are actually quite a few ways you can style these classic Vans. Its unique style means that whatever you dress it up or down in, you’ll always have a look that stands out from the crowd and will never be boring no matter what you match it with. Easy to partner with a pair of ankle socks, the Old Skool is the staple shoe to the Vans clan. For a modern look with an extra bit of comfort, dress up your Old Skools with a Yeezy inspired look.

With a padded collar, thick gum sole and suede detailing, Vans version of the high top - the Sk8-Hi - is great if you are looking for comfort and style.

Designed specifically for skaters looking for support and durability, the sneaker made its way into punk rock in the late ‘70s - a testament to its classic style and enduring appeal.

Adapted “Old Skool” style, the Sk8-Hi incorporates a thick rubber sole and retro-inspired suede detailing down the side of the shoe. The ankle padding on the high top makes them more of a casual option than the traditional trainer shoe, making them an ideal option for less formal outings and lazy days. Seeing Vans Sk8-Hi being worn is like seeing birds in the sky, they’re everywhere, but to add your own touch then keep the look minimal.

These all black Sk8-Hi’s are perfect for winter and festival season meaning they’re a staple in whatever season.

The authentic model is named authentic for a reason. Being the staple trainer since day one of Van’s history, the Authentic model is a nostalgic classic pair for any sneakerhead. Worn and praised by surfers and skaters since 1966, it’s still one of the most popular models today. With its low rise design, visible stitching and rubber classic white sole - the Authentic is easy to curate for any style, essentially making it a timeless shoe to Van’s timeline. The shoe itself has revolutionised through the years and is still going strong in sales today. With an endless list of collaborations under its lace, there is no wonder to why the model is a favorite.

New Noise / Modern Methods

modern methods

With many different ways to listen to music these days, we asked our readers how they discover new tunes.

By Chris Arencibia

CDs

Festivals

iTunes

Concerts

Amazon Music Other

Spotify

HEY YOU How do you listen to your music?

34 ANGST

Email us your answer for a chance to be featured in our next issue! submit@angstmag.com

Keep With It / The New Black

A RACK OF VARIOUS VINTAGE DRESSES.

the new BLACK Second hand clothing is making a comeback, thanks to the new generation.

By Kaylie Minogue 36 ANGST

S

elling stuff online isn’t new.

But for teens and young people, eBay, Gumtree and Craigslist are outdated. Instead, Generation Instagram has discovered Depop – half social network, half shopping platform, which lets users upload pictures of stuff they own, to sell directly to others. Depop now has 11 million users – three quarters of them are under 25. And if you’ve got a popular store or are featured on the explore page that’s curated by Depop staff, the platform can turn into a steady source

Keep With It / The New Black

of income.

Founded in 2011, Depop was one of the first apps that brought buyers and sellers together directly.

It’s not the only app of its kind, there is Vinted, Poshmark (currently US only), and ThredUp which are based on similar concepts, but each is trying to carve out its own niche. Some allow you to list designer clothing only, while others don’t have an app but rely on web browsers.

Depop now has offices in London, Los Angeles, New York and Milan, counts US models Dita Von Teese and Emily Ratajkowski among its users, and has collaborated with the likes of Nike and Converse.

But how did a niche clothing app evolve into a bona fide social network? “In 2011, there weren’t any apps where you could buy and sell things like that,” explains Simon Beckerman, Depop’s co-founder and head of design.

“I tried to implement all of the things which this new generation had with other products, so it was like Instagram with a buy button.

The range is eclectic. Depop lists clothing that was fashionable 10 years ago, alongside the most recent Supreme drop. Beckerman says it’s part of the appeal. “On our explore section, we don’t show the things which we think are trendy, but the things which we think could be.”

Reselling used clothing also speaks strongly to the popularity of the circular economy; why bin clothing that’s still perfectly wearable, and that might hit somebody else’s fashion sweet spot? “Young people are increasingly connected to the circular economy and are looking for more opportunities to behave in a more sustainable way,” says Isabelle Szmigin, professor of marketing at Birmingham University.

A COLLECTION OF THRIFTED ITEMS

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Keep With It / Strut Your Stuff

Slip-On Varsity Sneaker $60

Old Skool Original Sneaker $60 Slip-On Anaheim Factory 98 DX Sneaker $60

STRUT YOUR

STUFF Find your perfect pair of Vans!

By Kaylie Minogue 40 ANGST

get out there

Find new events and places to check out.

42

BEYOND THE BOARD

44 IN THE PIT 48

SATISFYING SUBSTITIUTES

43

Get Out There! / Beyond The Board

HEY YOU Where is your go-to skate spot?

Email us your answer for a chance to be featured in our next issue! submit@angstmag.com

beyond the board From roller derbies to the X-games, skating has grown tremendously in the past 60 years.

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By Chris Arencibia

Get Out There! / In The Pit

IN THE PIT

The beginnings of punk rock are often furiously debated.

By Laurie Laino

P

unk Rock was originally used to describe the garage musicians of the ‘60’s. Bands like the Sonics were starting up and playing out with no musical or vocal instruction, and often limited skill. Because they didn’t know the rules of music, they were able to break the rules.

The mid to late ‘60s saw the appearance of the Stooges and the MC5 in Detroit. They were raw, crude and often political. Their concerts were often violent affairs, and they were opening the eyes of the music world.

The Velvet Underground is the next piece of the puzzle. The Velvet Underground, managed by Andy Warhol, were producing music that often bordered on noise. They were expanding the definitions of music

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TOP: THE CLASH. BOTTOM: A MOSH PIT.

without even realizing it.

The final primary influence is found in the foundations of Glam Rock.

Artists like David Bowie and the New York Dolls were dressing outrageously, living extravagantly and producing loud trashy rock and roll. Glam would end up splitting up its influence, doling out portions to hard rock, “hair metal” and punk rock.

New York: The First Punk Rock Scene. The first concrete punk

rock scene appeared in the mid-’70s in New York. Bands like the Ramones, Wayne County, Johnny Thunders and the Heartbreakers, Blondie and the Talking Heads were playing regularly in the Bowery District, most notably at the legendary club CBGB.

The bands were unified by their location, camaraderie, and shared musical influences. They would all go on to develop their own styles and many would shift away from punk rock.

Get Out There! / In The Pit

While the New York scene was reaching its heyday, punk was undergoing a separate creation story in London.

Meanwhile, across the pond, England’s punk scene had political and economic roots. The economy in the United Kingdom was in poor shape, and unemployment rates were at an alltime high. England’s youth were angry, rebellious and out of work. They had strong opinions and a lot of free time.

This is where the beginnings of punk fashion as we know it emerged, and they centered out of one shop. The shop was simply called SEX, and it was owned by Malcolm McClaren.

Malcolm McClaren had recently returned to London from the U.S., where he had unsuccessfully tried to reinvent the New York Dolls to sell his clothing. He was determined to do it again, but this time looked to the

A PUNK BAND PLAYING A SHOW.

48

youths who worked and hung out in his shop to be his next project. This project would become the Sex Pistols, and they would develop a large following very quickly.

Among the fans of the Sex Pistols was an outrageous bunch of young punks known as the Bromley Contingent. Named after the neighborhood they all came from, they were at the first Sex Pistols shows, and quickly realized they could do it themselves.

Within a year, the Bromleys had formed a large portion of the London Punk scene, including The Clash, The Slits, Siouxsie & the Banshees, Generation X (fronted by a young Billy Idol) and X-Ray Spex.

The British punk scene was now in full swing.

By the late ‘70s, punk had finished its beginning and had emerged as a solid musical force. With its rise in popularity, punk began to split into numerous sub-genres. New musicians embraced the DIY movement and

began to create their own individual scenes with specific sounds.

In order to better see the evolution of punk, check out all of the subgenres that punk split off into. It’s a list that’s constantly evolving, and it’s only a matter of time before more categories appear.

Get Out There! / Satisfying Substitutes

SATISFYING SUBSTITUTES We asked our readers to let us know what the top five best vegan eats are!

1.

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By Evie Scott Dottie’s Donuts – Philadelphia, PA IG: @DOTTIESDONUTS

Laid-back bakery & cafe known for its many donut flavors along with coffee & tea drinks.

New specialty donut flavors every day! Try their exclusive Dunkaroo donut.

2.

by CHLOE. – NYC / LA / Boston

3.

Orchard Grocer – NYC

4.

Handlebar – Chicago, IL

5.

Marty’s V Burger – NYC

IG: @EATBYCHLOE

by CHLOE. aims to share delicious, wholesome, plant-based food that fuels and energizes without compromising flavor, taste or satisfaction. Try their mac and cheese!

IG: @ORCHARDGROCER

Orchard Grocer is an vegan deli and market inspired by the delicatessens of New York’s past. They specialize in sandwiches and hardto-resist snacks. Try their grilled cheese!

IG: @HANDLEBARCHICAGO

Handlebar serves made-from-scratch vegetarian and vegan comfort food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Try their Sloppy Joe sandwich!

IG: @MARTYSVBURGER

Marty’s V Burger offers a full menu of burgers, fries, drumstix, and more, including gluten-free options. Try their mac and cheese!

HEY YOU What’s your favorite vegan meal?

Email us your answer for a chance to be featured in our next issue! submit@angstmag.com

UNDER THE GUN EXPLORING HOW EXACTLY TATTOOS GOT UNDER OUR SKIN.

BY MAGGIE FRIEDMAN

Features / Under The Gun

54

EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN STORY TO TELL.

N

ew Yorkers, who live in a world shaped by advertising, are suckers for self-transformation. In a choice between changing the body and changing the mind, changing the body is easier. And the easiest feature to change is skin, a blank canvas just waiting to be colored, stained or drawn on.

That’s what we see happening repeatedly, imaginatively and pretty much permanently in “Tattooed New York,” a tightly packed survey of epidermal art opening on Friday at the New-York Historical Society.

Tattooing is a global phenomenon, and an old one. It’s found on pre-Dynastic Egyptian mummies and on living bodies in Africa, Asia and the Americas throughout the centuries. Europeans caught on to it, in a big way, during the Age of Exploration. (The word “tattoo” has origins in Polynesia; Capt. James Cook is often credited with introducing it to the West.)

What’s the longtime allure of a cosmetic modification that, even after the invention of modern tools, can hurt like hell to acquire? In some cultures, tattoos are considered healing or protective. In others, they’re marks of social affiliation, certificates of adulthood. Like Facebook pages, they can be public statements of personal interests, political or amorous. They can function as professional calling cards — sample displays — for tattooists promoting their skills.

What’s the longtime allure of a cosmetic modification that, even after the invention of modern tools, can hurt like hell to acquire?

In some cultures, tattoos are considered healing or protective. In others, they’re marks

55

Features / Under The Gun of social affiliation, certificates of adulthood.

Like Facebook pages, they can be public statements of personal interests, political or amorous. They can function as professional calling cards — sample displays — for tattooists promoting their skills.

In the exhibition, they’re very much about the art of self-presentation, an aesthetic that can enhance certain physical features, and disguise others. At its most extreme, in examples of unhideable, fullbody, multi-image ink jobs, tattooing is a grand existential gesture, one that says, loud and clear: I’m here.

T

he show, organized by Cristian Petru Panaite, an assistant curator at the New-York Historical Society, begins with evidence, which is scant and secondhand, of tattooing among Native Americans in 18th-century New York State. The clearest images are in a set of 1710 mezzotints, “The Four Indian Kings,” by the British printmaker John Simon. The set depicts a delegation of tribal leaders, three Mohawk, one Mohican, shipped by the British military to London to request more troops to fight the French in North America.

If the web of interests they represented was a tangled one, nobody cared. Queen Anne fussed over the exotic visitors. Londoners gave them the equivalent of ticker-tape parades.

From that point the story moves forward, at first somewhat confusingly, into

An example of a flash sheet.

the 19th century, when tattooing was largely associated with life at sea. In a label we’re told that Rowland Hussey Macy Sr. (18221877), the founder of Macy’s department store, was tattooed with a red star when he worked, as a youth, aboard a Nantucket whaler. And — this says something about the jumpy organization of the show’s first section — we learn from the same label that Dorothy Parker, the renowned Gotham wit, acquired a very similar tattoo in the 1930s, presumably under nonmarine circumstances, and under more humane conditions, as old-style pokeand-scratch methods had been softened by machines.

By then tattooing had become a complex art form, and a thriving business.

Ink and watercolor designs, known as flash, grew ever more wide-ranging, running from standard stars-and-stripes motifs to soft-core pornography to elevated symbolic fare (Rock of Ages; Helios, the Greek sun god), with degrees of fanciness determining price.

At the same time, tattoos could have purely practical uses. When Social Security numbers were first issued in the 1930s, people who had difficulty remembering them had their numbers inked onto their skin, like permanent Post-it notes. (A tattooist known as Apache Harry made numbers his specialty.) And in the 19th century, during the Civil War, a New Yorker named Martin Hildebrandt tattooed thousands of soldiers with just their names, so that, should they die in battle, as many would, their bodies could be identified.

Hildebrandt was the first in a long line of revered Gotham tattoo artists, which includes Samuel O’Reilly, Ed Smith, Charlie Wagner (the “Michelangelo of Tattooing”), Jack Redcloud, Bill Jones, Frederico Gregio (self-styled as both Brooklyn Blackie and the Electric Rembrandt) and Jack Dracula (born Jack Baker), whose ambition was to be “the world’s youngest most tattooed man.”

Whether he achieved his goal I don’t know, but Diane Arbus photographed him, and that’s fame enough.

Hildebrandt came to a sad end; he died in a New York insane asylum in 1890.

But in earlier days his shop did well, and he had a notable asset in the presence of a young woman who used the name Nora Hildebrandt. The personal nature

A man shows off the tattoos on his neck and biceps.

Features / Under The Gun

“IF YOU WANT TO SEE A TRANSFORMATION THAT CHANGES BODY AND MIND EQUALLY, HERE IT IS.”

of their relationship is a mystery, but their professional alliance is clear: He tattooed her multiple times, and he was not the only artist who did. By the 1890s, she was adorned with more than 300 designs and had become an attraction in the Barnum & Bailey Circus.

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ike many self-inventing New Yorkers, she provided herself with a colorful past: She said she’d been forcibly inked by Indians when captured as a girl. Variations on this story served other tattooed women of the era well, at least three of whom — Trixie Richardson, Ethel Martin Vangi and the lavishly selfornamented ex-burlesque star Mildred Hull — worked “both sides of the needle,” as one of the exhibition’s witty label puts it, by becoming tattooists themselves.

The show’s more coherent second

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half gives a fascinating account of these women, who form a kind of tattoo royalty.

One, Betty Broadbent, actually came close to earning a crown. While appearing in New York’s 1939 World’s Fair, she also took part in a beauty pageant, the first ever broadcast on television. Although she didn’t end up as queen, her tattoos, which included a Madonna and Child on her back and portraits of Charles Lindbergh and Pancho Villa on either leg, were noticed.

But despite such brushes with mainstream fame, tattooing was in trouble.

Most New York storefront establishments were on the Bowery, which had long since became a skid row, with a reputation for crime. In 1961, in what was rumored to be an effort to clean up the city before the 1964 World’s Fair, the Health Department claimed that tattooing was responsible for a hepatitis

Features / Under The Gun

“IT CONTINUED TO FLOURISH BY NIGHT IN BASEMENTS AND APARTMENTS.”

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A tattoo of a woman inside of a lightning bolt on a bicep.

outbreak and made it illegal.

That drove the trade underground, where it continued to flourish, often by night, in basements and apartments. A new generation of artists emerged, among them Thom DeVita, Ed Hardy and Tony Polito.

Another of the group, Tony D’Annessa, drew his ink-and-marker designs on a vinyl window shade — it’s in the show — which could be quickly rolled up in the event of a police raid.

As the 1960s proceeded, tattooing gained fresh cachet precisely because of its anti-establishment status, and that continued into the punk wave of the 1980s, which reclaimed the Bowery as rebel territory. By the globalist 1990s, when the tattoo ban ended, the non-Western sources of much of this art, particularly Japanese, was attracting attention. So was the vivid work, much of it reflecting Latin American culture, coming out of prisons.

The former underground gained high visibility. Artists like Spider Webb (Joseph O’Sullivan) and Thomas Woodruff, who came up through the tattoo world, made a transition to commercial galleries.

New work by several young artists in the show — Mario Desa, Flo Nutall, Chris Paez, Johan Svahn, William Yoneyama and Xiaodong Zhou — seems pitched as much to the wall as to skin. And the gradual entry of tattoos into museums began the process of mainstreaming that has made the genre widely popular, but also watered down.

Not completely watered down, though. Native American artists are again making the form their own. And, as was true a century ago, the participation of women is a crucial spur to this art. Ruth Marten began tattooing in the early 1970s for a largely punk and gay clientele — she inked both the musician Judy Nylon and the drag star Ethyl Eichelberger — and merged live tattooing with performance art, an idea the exhibition will explore with tattooing demonstrations in the gallery.

The nonprofit organization P.Ink (Personal Ink) periodically organizes workshops that specialize in tattoo sessions for breast cancer survivors who have had mastectomies but reject reconstructive surgery. Photographs of scar-ornamenting and covering designs by Miranda Lorberer, Ashley Love, Joy Rumore and Pat Sinatra are in the show, along with testimonials from grateful clients. If you want to see transformation that changes body and mind equally, here it is.

A girl shows off the tattoos on her forearms.

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Features / Free Spirit

I

f you’re a skateboarder, you already know that our craft is something special. Skateboarding is a sport, an art form, a lifestyle, and a culture.

The good that we get out of skateboarding is endless. Today, we’re just going to touch on

some of the health benefits that skating has to offer.

Skateboarding is great for burning calories

and staying in great physical shape. Calculating exact calories burned during skating isn’t easy since some days you might skate harder than others.

Another reason that makes it difficult to estimate is that skateboarding to get somewhere is different from skating at a skatepark or spot. But with all this being said, skateboarding uses up far more calories than most other physical activities. Depending on your size, you might shred between 150 and 500 calories per hour.

Skate all day. Skate all night. You’ve probably

heard that motto before. Skateboarding wears us out, beats us up, but we still do it as long as we can.

And the more we do it, the more we’re able to do it.

So why does this happen in skateboarding far more than in other sports? Why do we skate more in one day than people do other sports in a whole week?

That one’s easy. It’s just more fun.

There aren’t many other activities out there

that involve as much of your body as skateboarding.

When we skate, we’re moving every part of our body, and we’re moving them in all sorts of different directions. Just think about everything that goes into a simple frontside boardslide. You’re moving your feet and your legs You’re using your arms to help balance. You’re twisting your body. Now think

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Features / Free Spirit about all the tricks you might do throughout a day of skating. Also, picture all the combination of tricks that you might do. There probably isn’t any other sport that offers such a variety of movement.

You try a trick, you don’t land it, so you

try again. But this time, you make adjustments.

You place your feet differently on the board. You change your timing. You change your speed. You change the way you land. You adjust until you stick it and roll away. Skateboarding involves a lot of coordination between your eyes, legs, feet and arms. The more you skate, the better you’ll get at A railing used to perform tricks on.

this. Precision and coordination are used

“

the fun and excitement of skating is far greater than the pain involved

”

throughout your life, whether you skateboard or not. When you improve these traits, you better your ability to do all sorts of different things from driving to climbing to multi-tasking.

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ruises and bumps. Scrapes and scars. Aches and pains. They’re all a part of skateboarding. And since we love skateboarding so much, we’re willing to take the abuse. The fun

and excitement of skating is far greater than the pain involved. Most small injuries go away. You forget about them. But you’ll never forget your first kickflip, your first drop-in, or your first handrail.

So we roll with the punches. And those punches become easier to deal with each and every time.

A man skating on the rim of a bowl at a skate park.

“

skateboarding wears us out, beats us up, but we still do it as long as we can

�

People gather and watch each other perform tricks from the outside of the bowl.

We fall. We get up. We try it again with even more determination.

Prevention of future injuries is one of the

most beneficial things that skateboarding has to offer in terms of health. When you skate, you learn how to avoid falling (if possible), and you also learn how to fall correctly. Skateboarders naturally get better at knowing where to place their feet and their hands as they progress with their skating.

The more you skate, the better you get at catching yourself from taking a spill. If falling is unavoidable, a seasoned skater will know how to do it in a way that minimizes injury. This is an excellent tool to have in your life. You’ll reduce the chance of freak accidents. You’ll naturally be more able to recover from slips, trips, and stumbles and avoid falling on your face.

Any physical activity is considered

to be good for relieving stress, but we think skateboarding is especially powerful in this way.

Skateboarding can help you take your mind off things. Alternatively, it can also help you think

“

the more you skate, the better you get at catching yourself from taking a spill.

”

clearly about things. Skateboarding seems to bring things into perspective and allows you to feel as though you’re more in control of other aspects of your life. In addition, skating helps you feel more relaxed in general. When you’ve conquered things like hand rails, concrete bowls, and stair sets, a lot of problems you might encounter in life are greatly reduced or disappear altogether. Landing tricks also brings a sense of accomplishment and confidence.

Most importantly, skateboarding is fun and brings about happiness.

Skateboarding is one of the most beneficial

things you can do for your body, mind, and soul.

If you were thinking about starting, we highly recommend it and we hope that this article helped to convince you. And if you’re still not sure, just try it. You won’t regret it.

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A man skating on the rim of a bowl at a skate park.

la t is stil e k c a j t e denim y, like i a d o t How th s be wardro n i e l p go. sta years a 0 5 s a w

cott

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by Evie

Features / The New Classic

DIfferent colored jean jackets with unique patches and pins on them.

E

veryone needs a denim jacket in their wardrobe.

It’s as much of a staple as say, a white shirt or a little black dress. It’s the perfect companion to a Breton tee and boyfriend jeans at the weekend, adds a rebel touch to an otherwise severe suit at work, and flirts beautifully with summer frocks. But where there are plethora of brands who do the LBD well (though eternal thanks to Givenchy for putting it back on the sartorial map), there really is only one brand that reigns king when it comes to denim jackets. I’m referring to Levi’s of course.

It was first created back in 1967, and fifty years on, it’s still the only denim jacket to have. Why? We asked Levi’s

“Levi’s only started calling Levi’s jeans ‘jeans’ in the ‘60s” 74 ANGST

Head of Design Jonathan Cheung, during the 50th celebration of the iconic piece, how it stood the test of time.

You may not know it, but the Levi’s Trucker jacket was first created back in the 60s, and it was an instant hit, thanks to a British musician you may or may not have heard of. ‘The Trucker really got a kickstart from its conception. In the summer of ’67, George Harrison, who was visiting his sister-inlaw Patti Boyd’s sister in San Francisco, in that iconic summer of love, showed up wearing a Trucker. And from there, you see Truckers worn by mods, skinheads, metalheads, stadium rockers, indie, you know. For me, I remember growing up and seeing it on the Smiths, Johnny Marr and Morrissey and following that progression, Paul Weller and all the way to Liam Gallagher to Kanye.’

With such history, it’s quite mindboggling to know that it actually didn’t take that long to create. ‘I was lucky enough to meet the original designer, and asked him how he created it. He just said he was asked to make a jacket to go with the 505 jeans, so he went to his desk, sat down and banged it out, it was like 15 minutes!’

‘Levi’s only started calling Levi’s jeans ‘jeans’ in the ‘60s, they were just

A girl wears a vintage jean jacket with unique patches and pins on it.

Features / The New Classic called overalls before then. The Trucker jacket was just a denim jacket before, the new name was adopted in the 90s from, re-appropriating it affectionately from what Japanese denim collectors used to call that particular type 3 jacket shape – so it’s kind of like an internal nickname that’s become more of an official thing I suppose. I guess by using

the name Trucker, everybody knew it was that particular one with the V-shape panels,’ Jonathan explains.

The jacket has always been intrinsically to the music industry, but it happened by chance.

A lot of popular music at the time came from the working class, which wasn’t about couture or Saville

Row suits, but adolescents writing albums in their bedrooms and getting old enough to publish it, explains Jonathan. And Levi’s made it easy for fans to emulate their idols’ looks.

He says, ‘what I think makes it special is it was accessible and it had this air of rebellion already – the jean was really populated by biker gangs post-

“You can express subculture through the denim jacket.”

A collection of vintage patches.

Features / The New Classic war – and most schools banned them and even until recently nightclubs did too. You could be on opposite sides of the cultural frame, fence, you could be a mod and you could be a rocker and you could still express your identity with a Trucker Jacket. You can express your subculture through the denim jacket.’

T

A clean canvas of a jean jacket.

he beauty of this iconic jacket is that anyone can wear it with anything, whether it’s a smart dress or casual checked shirt and jeans combo.

‘On men, on women, on kids, on old people, on people like working in agriculture, on roads, and then on presidents and CEOs. I think that makes it super special. So I think it’s become a piece and it’s become a layering piece as well that it makes, you might have a Céline silk and you throw on a Trucker on it and it gives it that balance and that edge,’ says Jonathan.

Who embodies the Trucker jacket? ‘To pick one person is tough. I want to say people like Steve Jobs, just because he’s amazing. We have a pair of Steve Jobs jeans and I honestly got the wobbles when we got Steve Jobs’ jeans in, because he’s so iconic and he has really pushed our culture and our species forward, so I would like it to be Steve, but you know, it’s definitely multiples,’ Jonathan explains.

That sums the jacket up perfectly. It’s not about one person, it’s about several, each one of them with their personality, which they can adapt to the jacket. And that’s why, 50 years on, it’s still the only one you need.

“With such history, it’s quite mind-boggling to know that it actually didn’t take that long to create. “ 78 ANGST

A girl wears a vintage jean jacket with unique patches and pins on it.

. revival

the return of 35mm photography sparked a revival of authenticity.

by Kaylie Minogue

Features / Revival

T

he Consumer Electronics Show is usually the stuff of drones, smart home gear and other high-tech gadgets. But this year, as thousands of people attended the annual tech gathering in Las Vegas, a 129-year-old brand stole the limelight.

Kodak Aliris, the firm that bought Kodak’s film segments, announced during the event that it would reintroduce Ektachrome, a color reversal film discontinued in 2012.

Ektachrome’s revival, which surprised and pleased many photographers, comes as the film photography market is on the up after more than a decade of decline. “The film market peaked in 2003 with 960 million rolls of film, today it represents roughly 2% of that,” says Manny Almeida, president of Fujifilm’s imaging division in North America.

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A girl looking out of a window in Paris.

“Film forces you to think about the image, and really create the image mentally before you take it.�

Features / Revival

But in the last three years, companies like Kodak, Fujifilm and Harman Technology, which manufactures the popular Ilford Photo black-andwhite films, have been experiencing a comeback.

“We’re seeing film growth of 5% year-on-year globally,” says Giles Branthwaite, the sales and marketing director at Harman. “Our professional film sales have been increasing over the last two or three years,” confirms Dennis Olbrich, president of Kodak Alaris’ imaging, paper, photo chemicals and film division.

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rofessional photographers are primarily fueling this growth, thanks to a new generation of practitioners who grew up with digital but have begun dabbling in film, says Olbrich: “They discover the magic of film photography and many of them simply fall in love with it.”

Many modern film photographers are portrait and wedding photographers in their 20s and 30s who are looking to “differentiate their art

and their work by shooting film,” Almeida tells TIME. “That usually allows them to charge for a premium product because film has a different look and feel than digital.”

That look is key, adds Olbrich. “At Kodak, we’re very data-driven,” he says. “We look at every aspect of an image and try to quantify it, but there’s just a depth and richness in a film image that’s hard to replicate otherwise. That’s really the reason why a lot of influential motion pictures cinematographers demand to use film.” And now, professional photographers are making the same demands. “This group of photographers often uses the fact that they shoot film as a competitive advantage in their marketing.”

Film, meanwhile, pushes photographers to rethink how they shoot. “You can’t just shoot a hundred shots of your subject and review them immediately,” says Olbrich. “Film forces you to think about the image, plan the image and really create the image mentally before you actually do the shoot. Film photographers believe that this process results in much more artistic and, in some cases, much more spectacular images.”

Film manufacturers have taken notice.

They’re now rejuvenating their sales and marketing efforts, with Harman pushing for the creation of new courses, new darkrooms and exhibitions across the U.K. and the U.S. Kodak is retooling its entire social media strategy and if this year’s CES is any indication, Kodak has certainly struck a chord with film-curious photographers. While it will take a year

“They discover the magic of film photography and many of them simply fall in love with it.”

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A photo of a girl walking up to a car.

Features / Revival

“There’s just a depth and richness in an image that’s hard to replicate.” for Ektachome to be available again, the company is already working on what comes next. “That gave us some confidence to start to look at what films we would consider bringing back into the marketplace,” says Olbrich.

Fujifilm, on the other hand, is looking at another segment to grow its film business: instant photography. “It’s a huge market for us,” says Almeida. Fujifilm believes it sold more than 6.5 million instant cameras last year, up from 3.9 million in 2014 (a full accounting of those sales will be published at the end of the month.) And new products continue to come out of Fujifilm’s factories.

Last year, it launched a black-and-white instant film, and in the coming months it will unveil a new film that will mimic Polaroid’s famous square format.

“We’ve done a lot of consumer research to try to understand how consumers feel about the product, what’s their behavior, how do they buy it,” Almeida adds. “A lot of consumers indicate that they don’t even look at Instax as photography. It’s fun, it’s relaxed, it’s social communication.”

Despite its different appeal, the popularity of Instax benefits the entire film market as more people experience analogue photography’s distinct appeal.

“What surprises me, really, is that it’s taken 15 years since digital penetrated the photography market for this resurgence to happen,” says Branthwaite.

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An example of a film strip.

A photo of a girl’s backside showing a large tattoo.

ANGST / Before You Go

FIND YOUR FAVORITE

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J A I X J M I Z J O S F M W E F K E C M R U H Z V X X R G Q Z Q J U J L C U B X Q V F B P U X U U Z Z X U Z Q V T Y N V F G Y K D I H Y N X A G T T N O T F P G N V U T B D N G T G E V N Z I B V R W D C U K N T U A K G O O W E B O L U G L S V U V E H N C B O N N K T D C V K Z G A X C O P W L Z M Y T G M W R W P M P L M H Y F Q U P I B F E E Y K I L P C H U N R C W Y N F Y P R H D E Q H Q G N Q A V I E P Q I X N J N Q K X Y W T S O E A M D B Y M Q G G J X M P D S A N F O S A P F B E C K H T U G C J A Q Q I D B G P E I U E M G A T W H X P B L I A M H W N F S W G X N V A N U B M V M T F Q P E Q O W W L D T P E U I D D B C V X K C V Y S W S A H O I N T U O P Z O Z I Q O G T E G E A P L W K E V E C N Y E R Q Q H N H A N W S T A F A B F H L C N N B S B D N R Y D M S Z U E L T N A C G O R F B K Q P E O E P Q U N L S A N A A O O G K Q K I T A V U H S K O V F J D R K I N Y J E M F Y I U U J I Q C C T R S H A P V T E N T T K Y J D J M S L Q P N P G G N A T A A D Q T E R M L P T D R F M Z A T N F Z L A E F O M G C H T T Y M B V I B R A Y A T L I J Y P T A M L R T O O Q S W E T L E F N X N O T R T H E U S E D S C I X G A G I D L V D A H D N Y Q G G D P A M I L L D O E S D L D Q D O O C S P G C E E U F D W V E U M R J H A M J J H Z I Q T E F M H I E V A D R Q C B O M O Q O N K R R E I C U A Z I Z V R F A M L D D I B S R M R Q C B R M R P L E G R X Y O F X R G V R P D W E S N D A L L T I M E L O W B S A V D T M V D J R B L L A A M C W P O N U A G T H A Y P K A T R L H M T A S E A O E W T Y O K G X R Y V X F A L L O U T B O Y I U E R O E H T P Z Z I M Y C H E M I C A L R O M A N C E V C Q X G Z N F T L W H S Z H V H X Q Z I R H I M U H Y Y M R C J P W C D C E A T R K O B P Z L M N N S J I M M Y E A T W O R L D T A Q Y N Y Q A G G Z O C F C L A Q L U K A T E J W P C R R H Y O R M L L J Fall Out Boy Panic! At The Disco My Chemical Romance Good Charlotte All Time Low The Maine Bowling For Soup

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Jimmy Eat World Paramore Simple Plan Green Day The Offspring Taking Back Sunday

We The Kings The Used The Academy Is Senses Fail Yellowcard New Found Glory Mayday Parade