Book 4/7 FMP Research Book by oliviaeggington07

OLIVIA EGGINGTON 1908042 2

BOOK OVERVIEW This book explains the context and research behind my marketing strategy for Gymshark. It focuses on research that has taken place around the concept of sustainability and why this topic is important to me. It emphasises all the problems that are associated with ‘sustainable fashion’. It focuses on how we can move away from these negative associations, focusing on more transparent and responsible marketing methods.

C ON T E N T S PAGES 6-9: INTRODUCTION PAGES 10-11: CONSUMER PROFILE PAGES 12-15: FASHION POLLUTION PAGES 16-19: BARRIERS FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION PAGES 20-21: SECOND HAND FASHION PAGES 22-25: RESPONSIBLE FASHION PAGES 26-27: GENERATION Z PAGES 28-31: CONCLUSION PAGES 32-34: REFERENCES PAGES 35-37: APPENDIX

INTRO D U C TION The next decade is pivotal for the fashion industry with regards to initiatives around sustainability. The covid pandemic has ‘heightened awareness for the many challenges the industry is facing including high greenhouse gas emissions, overconsumption and waste problems’ (Berg, 2020). Brands are understanding this cannot continue and are therefore becoming more ‘sustainable.’ This has resulted in more brands using sustainability as an ungenuine marketing method, this is called greenwashing. ‘Greenwashing is when a company or organisation spends more time and money on marketing themselves as environmentally friendly than minimizing their environmental impact’ (Edwards, 2022). It has led to some consumers losing trust, particularly Generation Z, in brands and their sustainability marketing methods. This project will focus on how brands can engage Generation Z with authentic and genuine marketing methods. It is a campaign strategy that will work towards changing Generation Z’s confused feelings towards sustainability. It will focus on responsible, authentic marketing methods of more responsible and considered production methods.

CONSUMER CASE STUDY: ME

The concept behind my campaign has been heavily influenced by myself and the problems I face with the sustainable fashion market as I try to become a more conscious consumer. Being raised at a time where there are rising climate concerns, I feel concerned about the future of the planet and therefore want to protect its welfare. I have been inspired by key climate change activists such as David Attenborough and Greta Thunberg. They have taught me how important it is to make your voice heard. I understand that there are many changes that need to happen to divert a climate catastrophe. As a positive person I am hopeful that these changes can be made before it is too late, and the planet gets to a point of no return. I am concerned about the impact I am having on the planet for future generations and want to do all that I can to have a positive impact. As Mahatma Ghandi was once said ‘be the change that you want to see in the world.’ However, I am also aware that this must be a collective global effort with governments and industry leaders playing a pivotal role.

The global pandemic has led to me to have a greater appreciation of the outdoors and nature. It was a time that I could reflect on my actions and the impact I am having on the planet. I saw a shift in my consumer behavior as I started to buy fewer items and focused on buying more staple pieces. It was a time that allowed me to change my consumer behaviour. From my research, I have found this shift has happened for many of the Generation Z consumers as more are now using second-hand platforms such as Depop and Vinted (Appendix 2). I took inspiration from how we, as consumers, are choosing to shop and to raise awareness of the positive impact that shopping for second-hand and reused garments can have on reducing the detrimental impact that fashion production is having on the planet. My time at university has allowed me to develop my passion for this topic. My thirdyear studies have made me realise that the current fashion model is broken when it comes to its impact on climate change. As I will soon enter the workforce, I want to bring innovative solutions that will tackle the current problems that the industry is facing. As young creatives, we want to continue to explore and enjoy fashion and the many benefits that this brings. We also want to work for and shape an industry that understands our values and is making a positive and ethical change.

FIGURE 1: 11

OUR FUTURE PLANET Our climate is changing around us faster than first predicted and is predicted to accelerate over the coming years. From more frequent and extreme storms to unprecedented heatwaves, rising sea levels and damage to eco-systems vital for our future, we are seeing the impacts of human-caused global warming (Mode, 2021). Our planet is fragile. Research and evidence arising from some scientists who believe we need to prepare to colonise another planet as backup! This includes Stephen Hawking who stated that ‘humans need to colonise another planet within 100 years’ (Zorthian, 2017). He originally stated 1,000 years but altered his estimate due to climate concerns increasing faster than anticipated. He believed if not addressed the planet is facing the threat of human extinction. This is due to worries such as climate change concerns, overdue asteroid strikes, epidemics and population growth making our own planet increasingly precarious (Zorthian, 2017). Elon Musk is planning to colonise to Mars by 2029! This is because of his perception and understanding of the real threat that climate change presents. According to the ‘climate clock in New York Times Square,’ we have 7 years until climate change will become irreversible which would also match Elon Musk’s colonisation goals. The increasing range of evidence from the scientific community is telling us that we need to act and act now.

The fashion industry is fuelling climate change concerns. It cannot continue with the current model. According to reports, ‘the fast fashion industry produces 8-10% of global CO2 emissions. The fashion industry also consumes 79 trillion liters of water every year and is responsible for 20% of industrial water pollution that comes from dyeing and textile treatments’ (Climate Council, 2021). Action needs to be taken. Goals have been set and initiatives agreed upon at an international level. This includes the COP (Conference of the Parties) 26 conference that took place in Glasgow in 2021. There were multiple goals agreed upon such as the fashion industry securing global net zero emissions by 2050 and to cut CO2 emissions in half before 2030 (Bowcott, 2021). These are all linked to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). However, what actions are going to take place to ensure these goals are met?

CURRENT BARRIERS WITH SUSTAINABLE FASHION: There are many factors stalling the growth of the sustainable fashion industry. This includes internal barriers relating to customers themselves such as a lack of concern for the environment, limited knowledge on the impact clothing consumption has on the environment and demographic characteristics (Harris, 2015). Consumers demand for affordable, fast fashion is also a key factor in delaying growth. There are elevated levels of exposure for fast fashion brands on social media that is fuelling fast fashion and encouraging consumers to consume. As stated by Jahns, “Our world is overrun with advertisements and promotions and a culture that is begging you to just consume, consume, consume. It is really difficult to be an ethical consumer. It requires a lot of thought and education and care, and that is because corporations have made it so difficult” (Jahns, 2021). Shopping sustainably by purchasing original and new items is still the more expensive option when compared to shopping for fast fashion. Therefore, consumers socioeconomic status and their disposable income must be considered. Many consumers are facing financial concerns due to a ‘cost of living squeeze’ (Cursino, 2021). The impact of recent geopolitical events such as the pandemic, Brexit and the conflict in Ukraine have led to increasing inflation. This in turn is leading to significant rising costs of living in the United Kingdom (Appendix 1). This will lead to many consumers experiencing a reduction in their disposable income. Consumers will have to prioritise and further adapt their spending habits. If consumers cannot see an ethical effect of paying more, they will potentially purchase from fast fashion brands as price will become the key factor. Therefore, it is crucial that brands clearly understand the needs and wants of their target consumer and keep their pricing structure under constant review. Good and ethical companies may have to demonstrate that they will accept a reduction in short-term profit to satisfy the climate change agenda. This short-term strategy may prove extremely attractive to their customer base and support and encourage long-term consumer loyalty as the consumer feels more connected to the brand.

Another key issue is the need for brands to change negative perceptions of consumers in relation to sustainable fashion. This includes factors such as associations with sustainable clothing being less trendy, lower quality and limited availability of sizing and fit (Harris, 2015). This case study was conducted in 2015 and these barriers are still applicable to problems associated with the current sustainable fashion industry! The look and feel of clothing are key factors that influence consumer choice and demand. Consumers want to look and feel good. We need to see sustainable fashion in the mainstream to ensure it is not a niche market. 19

“SUSTAINABILITY” A big barrier that needs to be addressed is the use of the word ‘sustainable.’ Consumers believe that having the words ‘sustainable’ and ‘fashion’ in the same phrase is contradictory (Koelblin, 2018). Can a system that is based on constant production and natural resources ever be sustainable? The term ‘sustainable fashion’ is fraught with problems. Within this simple and widely used expression there are ‘perceived to be hidden differences in understanding of it’ according to researchers Yang, Song and Tong (2017). It is a vague word that is ambiguous within the fashion industry. This is because we are seeing brands, particularly fast fashion brands, stating they are sustainable because they are using conscious materials, yet they are flying their goods over from countries such as China. This then adds to CO2 emissions and encourages poor working conditions which are not sustainable. According to my primary survey it is not a word that connects with modern consumers as ‘100% stated that the word sustainability is being overused and therefore losing its meaning and impact.’

It is a word being abused by brands and companies as a marketing technique and is associated with greenwashing. This is leading to consumers purchasing from brands they think they are taking action to reduce the impact they have on the environment. However, on many occasions they are misled due to brands greenwashing. This is supported through H&M’s launch of their conscious line which is found to use more synthetic materials than their mainstream collection (Ho, 2021). We are seeing a lot of brands, particularly fast fashion brands using vague, fluffy language which are words with no clear meaning which are confusing consumers this includes terms such as ‘green’ and ‘more sustainable.’

FIGURE 2:

SECOND-HAND FASHION A positive development for the sustainable fashion industry is the rise of secondhand shopping platforms. Within recent years, we have seen an increase in the number of consumers, particularly Generation Z, purchasing and selling garments on secondhand clothing platforms. This includes platforms such as Depop, Vinted and Ebay. The number of users on Depop particularly increased during the height of the global pandemic (Appendix 1). It is also interesting to see that ‘90% of Depop’s active users are under the age of 25’ (Maguire, 2021). Therefore, it was important to understand if people are using secondhand platforms for financial or environmental reasons. A survey revealed that ‘75 percent of Depop users use the platform to buy second-hand fashion to reduce their consumption, while 65 percent added it allows them to purchase clothing at a lower price, and 55 percent said it was to buy one-of-a-kind items’ (Wightman-Stone, 2021). This demonstrates that Generation Z are trying to be more considerate about the impact that their behaviour is having on the environment. Consumers are choosing to shop second-hand because of the financial benefits it offers whilst allowing them to shop consciously.

RESPONSIBLE FASHION My campaign focuses on moving away from current issues associated with sustainable fashion and focuses on the concept of responsible fashion. The definition of responsible fashion is ‘a commitment from both consumers and suppliers. On the consumer end, it means thinking twice about your purchase, and making the choice of buying an often more expensive product to support the initiative. For the supplier, and the firm behind it, it implies to comply with the goals set for environmental development’ (Responsible Fashion, 2017). I have chosen to market my campaign as responsible due to its clear meaning and the connection it has to my target consumer, Generation Z. From conducting a survey primary survey, ‘82% stated the word ‘responsibility’ resonated more than the word ‘sustainability’ (Appendix 3). There are a range of stakeholders who need to take responsibility for the substantial changes that need to take place. This includes consumers, brands and manufactures taking responsibility for the impact they are having on the environment. Consumers need to be educated on the why’s and how’s of how we can create a more responsible future. Responsibility is crucial for success and growth as it helps you work through your mistakes (Rebecca, 2021). Consumers do not want greenwashing; they value transparency and authenticity which aligns with taking responsibility. Through effective marketing methods and transparent production methods brands can earn consumer's trust. This aligns with evolving consumer values. Responsibility does not mean perfection; it means understanding that you are taking steps to the contribution of a better future. Living a more considered lifestyle not only has many benefits for the planet but also our mind and body as well. This also includes the impact of using more ecofriendly transport and having a diet with a low environmental impact, such as becoming a vegan. ‘A vegan diet can offer many health benefits, including better heart health, weight loss, and a reduced risk of chronic diseases’ (Marengo, 2020).

There are many ways that brands can consider becoming more responsible. This may be through upcycling garments, re-selling secondhand garments or offering repair schemes. These initiatives offer plausible solutions to combat climate change issues. They also help the fashion industry move towards a more circular model. A circular fashion economy ‘creates better products and services for customers, contributes to a resilient and thriving fashion industry, and regenerates the environment. It prioritises the rights and equity of everyone involved in the fashion industry and creates new opportunities for growth’ (McCarthur, 2020). This is a crucial factor in the industry becoming more responsible and allowing wealth to become more evenly distributed. There are also other factors that need to be considered such as brands educating their consumers on washing instructions, material innovations and production conditions. 27

r e duce, r e use, u p c ycle...

GENERATION Z I have chosen to target my campaign at Generation Z. They are consumers born between 1995-2009 and ‘the largest generation ever as globally there are almost 2 billion of them, comprising almost 30% of the world’s population’ (Mcrindle, 2021). They are a key demographic to focus on. ‘The pandemic did not start the sustainability revolution, but it has put it into hyperdrive, and Generation Z is in the driver's seat’ (Petro, 2021). They are a generation that cares deeply and has a personal stake in the planet but they are also under pressure to keep up with the latest trends. They are seen as a highly confusing generation with regards to their shopping habits, as they are saying they want to shop ‘sustainably’ but are still buying from fast fashion brands (Kale, 2021). This is because they are still experimenting with their identities, oversaturated with information and are controlled with their spending. They are also being misled by brands and their greenwashing. Generation Z are worried about the impact they are having on our future planet and are therefore willing to adapt their behaviour. A survey showed that, ‘41% of young people aged 16-25 said they were hesitant to have children due to climate change, and 71% said their future is frightening’ (The Sustainability Generation, 2022). This is already happening as ‘Wales’s birth rates in 2020 were the lowest they have been in 100 years’ (Powell, 2020). This could be because of numerous factors including climate concerns, financial concerns and personal lifestyle preferences. To gain a deeper understanding of the driving factors I conducted a primary survey where ‘83% said they are worried about having children because of climate change and 100% said that they are worried about the impact they are having on the planet for future generations’ (Appendix 3). This demonstrates that modern consumers care and want to ensure they are committed to this cause. This is supported through many Generation Z consumers attending protests and marches.

FIGURE 3:

CON C L U S I ON My personal views coupled with my primary and wider research have informed my marketing strategy. The ‘climate emergency’ is real and supported by evidence. Unless clear action is taken there will be significant consequences for future generations. Extreme predictions talk of it leading to the extinction of humanity. It has also become clear that the fashion industry is a significant contributor to negative climate change. There is significant pressure, due to their age and knowledge, on Generation Z. Their relationship with fashion will be crucial in deciding how the industry responds. It is important that the fashion industry takes responsibility in becoming more responsible and educating the consumer as this change takes place. A transparent approach will gain the trust of consumers and allow all parties to go on a journey of change together. My marketing strategy for Gymshark assumes that their production methods and material choices will evolve. It aspires to allow Gymshark to continue to grow its customer base and market share. It is a marketing strategy that all producers will have to undertake as Generation Z grows older. They and their children, within the Generation Alpha and Generation Beta demographics, will demand this approach and brands that do not adopt this risk becoming obsolete.

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REFERENCES Berg, A., & Magnus, K.-H. (2020). FASHION ON CLIMATE HOW THE FASHION INDUSTRY CAN URGENTLY ACT TO REDUCE ITS GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS. https:// www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Retail/Our%20Insights/Fashion%20 on%20climate/Fashion-on-climate-Full-report.pdf Corcione, A. (2020, January 17). What Is Greenwashing? Business News Daily. https:// www.businessnewsdaily.com/10946-greenwashing.html Mode, H. (2021). Our planet is warming. here’s what’s at stake if we don’t act now. World Wildlife Fund; World Wildlife Fund. https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/our-planet-is-warming-here-s-what-s-at-stake-if-we-don-t-act-now Zorthian, J. (2017, May 4). Stephen Hawking: We Have 100 Years to Colonize a New Planet. Time. https://time.com/4767595/stephen-hawking-100-years-new-planet/ Climate Council. (2021, May 25). Fast fashion needs to slow down for the climate. Climate Council. https://www.climatecouncil.org.au/resources/fast-fashion-climate-change/ Bowcott, H. (2021). COP26 in brief: What business leaders should know | McKinsey & Company. Www.mckinsey.com. https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability/ our-insights/sustainability-blog/cop26-in-brief-what-business-leaders-should-know Harris, F., Roby, H., & Dibb, S. (2015). Sustainable clothing: challenges, barriers and interventions for encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 40(3), 309–318. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12257 Jahns, K. (2021, August 10). The environment is Gen Z’s No. 1 concern – and some companies are taking advantage of that. CNBC. https://www.cnbc.com/2021/08/10/the-environment-is-gen-zs-no-1-concern-but-beware-of-greenwashing.html Cursino, M. (2021, December 29). UK cost of living squeeze in 2022, says think tank. BBCNews.https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-59814598?at_medium=RSS&at_campaign=KARANGA&msclkid=4cec6328cd7111ecacdacf788739f724 Koelblin, S. (2018, June 18). WHY CONSUMERS DON’T BUY MORE SUSTAINABLE FASHION? LinkedIn. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/why-consumers-dont-buy-more-sustainable-fashion-susanna-koelblin

Yang, S., Song, Y., & Tong, S. (2017). Sustainable Retailing in the Fashion Industry: A Systematic Literature Review. Sustainability, 9(7), 1266. https://doi.org/10.3390/su9071266 Ho, S. (2021, July 9). Nearly 60% of Sustainable Fashion Claims Are Greenwashing, Report Finds. Green Queen. https://www.greenqueen.com.hk/fashion-brands-sustainability-claims-greenwashing/ Maguire, L. (2021, May 31). How the Depop generation thinks. Vogue Business. https://www. voguebusiness.com/fashion/how-the-depop-generation-thinks Wightman-Stone, D. (2021, June 1). Gen Z consumer inspired by sustainability and self-expression. FashionUnited. https://fashionunited.uk/news/retail/gen-z-consumer-inspired-by-sustainability-and-self-expression/2021060155788 Responsible fashion: next trend or utopia? | LOOK FORWARD. (2017, August 11). Le Blog Look Forward Project. https://www.lookforward-blog.com/mode-responsable/?lang=en#:~:text=What%20does%20%C2%AB%20responsible%20fashion%20%C2%BB%20imply Marengo, K. (2020, April 27). Vegan diet: Health benefits, foods, and tips. Www.medicalnewstoday.com. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/149636#:~:text=A%20vegan%20 diet%20can%20offer Rebecca. (2021, July 13). 10 Reasons Why Accepting Responsibility in Life is Important. Minimalism Made Simple. https://www.minimalismmadesimple.com/home/accept-responsibility/#:~:text=Accepting%20responsibility%20is%20crucial%20for Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2021). Redesigning the Future of Fashion. Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/fashion/overview Petro, G. (2021 4). Gen Z Is Emerging As The Sustainability Generation. Forbes. https:// www.forbes.com/sites/gregpetro/2021/04/30/gen-z-is-emerging-as-the-sustainability-generation/?sh=4bc68d938699 Kale, S. (2021). Out of style: Will Gen Z ever give up its dangerous love of fast fashion?. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/oct/06/out-of-style-will-gen-z-ever-giveup-its-dangerous-love-of-fast-fashion Powell, J. (2020, January 19). Birth rate continues to decline across Wales. The National Wales. https://www.thenational.wales/news/19857787.birth-rate-continues-decline-acrosswales/ Climate clock: https://climateclock.world/ 37

IMAGE R E F E RENCES FIGURE 1: Depop. (2019). Depop casts nine of its community members in its latest campaign. WWD. [IMAGE]. https://wwd.com/business-news/marketing-promotion/depop-texas-campaign-gen-z-1203342957/ FIGURE 2: BYBI (2021). Instagram. We are not sustainable. In fact, we question whether the use of the word “sustainability” from brands can even be sustainable? Here’s why: [IMAGE]. https://www.instagram.com/p/ CVatR5jATDl/ ANIMANNIUS. Instagram. (2021). We are NOT a sustainable brand… unfortunately! no brand can be 100% sustainable, so don’t let green-washing fool ya!! [IMAGE]. https://www.instagram.com/p/CVTe3UtKBNT/ Duke, B. (2019). Old Stock. Selvedge. [IMAGE]. https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/old-stock Another Magazine. (2017). Spring / Summer 2017. Another Magazine. [IMAGE]. https://reader.exacteditions.com/issues/55283/spread/403 Margiela, M. (2018). Fall 2018. The New York Times. [IMAGE]. https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2018/07/04/fashion/runway-couture/maison-margiela-fall-2018/s/maismrg-fall-2018-couture-slideZEFI.html FIGURE 3: Jaded London. (2022). Jaded London X Velocity Collection. Pop. [IMAGE]. https://www.popdesignshoppe.com/blog/2021/9/26/fashion-that-moves-a-preview-jaded-londons-velocity-collection ID. (2021). Fat Tongue. The Impression. [IMAGE]. https://theimpression.com/?utm_source=fattongue&utm_medium=redirect&utm_campaign=fat-tongue%2Fslick-woods-adwoa-aboah-elliott-brownby-tim-walker-for-i-d-summer-2017-cover%2F Hanapova, P. (2021). PYE Optics. Behance. [IMAGE]. https://www.behance.net/gallery/111690815/Campaign-for-PYE-OPTICS Lennox, B. (2018). Nike Sports Pack 18 Campaign. Models. [PHOTOGRAPH]. https://models.com/work/ nike-nike-sports-pack-campaign/966632 Faque, M. (2017). Casting Call. C-Heads. [PHOTOGRAPH]. http://www.c-heads.com/2017/04/12/casting-call/ Pretty Much. (2020). A bugs life. Twitter. [IMAGE]. https://mobile.twitter.com/PRETTYMUCH/status/1229922796844642305

APPENDIX 1 Consumer prices, as measured by the Consumer Prices Index (CPI), were 7.0% higher in March 2022 than a year before. Francis-Devine, B., Harari, D., Keep, M., & Bolton, P. (2022). Rising cost of living in the UK. Commonslibrary.parliament.uk. https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/research-briefings/cbp9428/

A PPEN D I X 2 Monthly active users (MAU) of the Depop app worldwide from January 2019 to May 2021 Depop monthly active users worldwide 2019-2021. (2021). Statista. https://www.statista.com/ statistics/1247982/depop-monthly-active-users-worldwide/

APPEND I X 3

PRIMARY SURVEY