OLTRE - Volume 7: The Taste Issue

THE TASTE ISSUE

Welcome to the newest volume of OLTRE, our exclusive quarterly magazine filled with inspiration and ideas for your next trip — and beyond.

This issue we’re excited to add more “musts” to your list. From Manhattan’s best-kept secrets often hiding in plain sight to our favorite new restaurant discoveries around the world.

Su Müstecaplioğlu (Bulgari street scene)

Brad A. Johnson (New York skyline and Little Ned martini)

AT A GLANCE

ROCKY ISLAND HIGHS

Mallorca, Spain

Discover malvasia wines, negroni floats, pink Balearic prawns and the occasional roadblock in the Spanish Mediterranean.

IMPRESSIONS

New York, New York

An artist found inspiration, and success, in the tragic loss of a prized piece of heirloom china.

Santa Monica, California

OLTRE’S Volume 7 playlist channels the soulful electroswing of one of Los Angeles’ oldest speakeasies.

CRUISE REVIEW

Valley, Germany

Head to the rivers for the best views of Europe’s most beautiful wine region.

SIBLING REVELRY

Tokyo, Japan

The new Janu offers a much different proposition than its sister brand, Aman. But the hospitality feels luxuriously familiar.

SCOUTED

Bangkok, Thailand

A new generation of gentlemen’s tailors is redefining the bespoke industry in a city long known for custom suits. Do not expect them to rush.

Mosel

Allura. YOUR WORLD is CALLING .

Embrace the continued evolution of Oceania Cruises.

Mixology Mastery

Allura will take mixology to soaring heights with her expansive cocktail experiences, new menus, ultimate pairings and unique specialty beverage carts.

Culinary Marvels at Sea

Allura is a world of enchantment where our dedication to serving The Finest Cuisine at Sea® thrives with unrivaled creativity.

Seagoing Luxury

Experience the epitome of seagoing luxury and refined living aboard Allura

Where to drink: from wine crawls to rooftop cocktails

More: Insider secrets for penthouse suites, hidden art galleries, quiet spaces and beyond

If only every vacation could be Madrileño

Madrid—a lively, welcoming region with an endless supply of one-of-a-kind discoveries

Only in Madrid can you start your day with breakfast and a tour of the Golden Triangle of Art, enjoy tapas at a scenic vineyard in the afternoon, and end with a flamenco performance in a historic palace. This lively city and diverse region blend stunning natural beauty, historic significance, and a unique zest for life. As the world capital of flamenco and one of the most vibrant destinations in Europe, Madrid offers an unrivaled experience, with picturesque villages, castles, and vineyards just 30 minutes from the bustling city center.

Discover Madrid for yourself.

Mexico City, Mexico

An artisanal perfumery with a flagship in Polanco harnesses the alchemy of scent to elevate indigenous botanicals.

THE LEGEND

What to pack for fall: Yum! These creams, lotions and potions are good enough to eat.

Your

HOTEL REVIEW

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

One of the Caribbean’s most ubiquitous brands just did something it’s never done before. And it’s pretty cool.

Great Milton, England

Forty years later, and centuries in the making, a quirky manorhouse hotel and restaurant in the English countryside remain at the avant-garde of farm-to-table cooking.

NEW YORK STATE OF

MIND

We all have that one place we’re embarrassed to admit we haven’t been to, or don’t know well — especially for those of us who work in the travel industry. Until recently, for me that place was New York. Sure, I’d been there, but usually just for brief business trips, which only allowed time for meetings and work dinners at restaurants chosen for their proximity to my hotel or office building.

Now that I work for a company headquartered in NYC, I’m spending more time there every month and am finally learning my way around the Big Apple, from navigating the subway to exploring different neighborhoods beyond my Midtown office. I still want to check off some of the more touristy sites, even if it means seeing them solo. (Last holiday season I cajoled my unwilling family to join me on a nighttime Statue of Liberty cruise in freezing temperatures — and let’s just say I was the only one who enjoyed it.)

This issue’s destination guide to New York adds even more musts to my to-do list — and I’m sure it will add to yours as well. We’ve tapped our local network of insiders, including general managers of the city’s top hotels, to share their favorite spots to relax, eat, shop, order a cocktail and, yes, play tourist. Over the last year our team has checked out numerous hotels there and recently conducted photo shoots at several — notably the cover image shot on location at the Aman New York, one of the most expensive and exclusive hotels in the city since it opened in 2022.

Every hotel in this issue, in New York or elsewhere, offers special amenities and perks when you book with your travel advisor. Just another incentive to plan a trip — perhaps to that place you’re embarrassed to admit you haven’t visited. Yet.

Senior Vice President, Content Elaine Srnka

AWARD SEASON

Just a year after launching, OLTRE is now an award-winning publication. We received multiple awards from several journalism organizations for excellence in travel writing, food and cultural criticism, restaurant reviews and photography. Kudos to Design Director Devin Duckworth, who leads OLTRE’s visual identity and incredibly high-style photo shoots, and Editorial Director Brad A. Johnson, who not only oversees the editorial but personally writes and photographs culinary features every issue, which earned him a nomination for Journalist of the Year. Fingers crossed: We’ve also been nominated as finalists for five Folio editorial and design awards, including best magazine launch and best new magazine design.

A&K PRIVATE ESTATES

THE CHIANTI COLLECTION

Restored farmhouses, ancient towers, wine estates and charming manors set in sun-dappled grounds — A&K’s Private Estates are Chianti’s most desirable country houses, chosen by our experts as ideal homebases for the ultimate Italian getaway. When you take over a Private Estate, you’re not just ge ing the keys to your own secret corner of Tuscany, you’re ge ing the full A&K Chianti experience, complete with wine tasting, cooking classes, a private photographer and a dedicated local host and concierge with round-the-clock availability.

These idyllic villas, sure to be on everyone’s to-go list in summer 2025, are available exclusively through A&K.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON A&K PRIVATE ESTATES, CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.

Senior Vice President, Content Elaine Srnka

Vice President, Publishing Laura Sport

Copy Editor Jennifer Weston

International Correspondents

Editorial Director

Brad A. Johnson

De sign Director

Devin Duckworth

Carolyn O'Neil (Caribbean) Kathryn Romeyn (Bali), Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Laura Schooling (London), Marina Spironetti (Milan)

Contributors

Katie Kelly Bell, Tanvi Chheda, Jenny B. Davis, Adam Erace, Nicholas Gill, Christina Gliha, Fiona Green, Maria C. Hunt, DaVian Lain, Devorah Lev-Tov, Alex Levy, Su Müstecaplioğlu , Don Nichols, Joe Thomas, Tasha Tongpreecha, Christiaan van Bremen, Takuya Yamaguchi, Lina Zeldovich

Advertising & Marketing

Cruises

Pam Young

Destinations

Brian Hegarty

Hotel Programs

Dennis Grunden

In-Country Partners

Haisley Smith

Partner Marketing Stephen McGillivray

Account Management

Marshall Davenport

Melissa Dobmeier

Giselle Garvey

Sam Holloway

Catherine Johns

Ronald Laing

Pam Massey

Sinead O’Connell

Loyde Pires

Becky Serdar

Jeanne Watters

Danielle Whitmore

Advertising Consultants

Lisa Calderone-Spierings lcalderone@cabanaxpr.com

Madelyn Roberts madelyn.roberts1@gmail.com

Direct advertising inquiries to advertising@oltremag.com

Internova Travel Group

Hotel Marketing

Alexandra Rivera

Database Marketing

Jocelyn Acosta

Elizabeth Broehl

Felipe Castro

Adam Kemerer

James Nathan

Daniel Tennant

Katarzyna Turska

Chief Executive Officer

J.D. O'Hara

President, Global Travel Collection

Angie Licea

President, Travel Leaders Group

John Lovell

Chief Financial Officer

Robert Klug

Chief Information Officer

Jeremy Van Kuyk

Internova Select and Curated Hotel & Resort Rate Key

$ = Under $500

$$ = $500 - $1,000

$$$ = $1,000 - $1,500

$$$$ = Over $1,500

Categories reflect average midseason rate for standard room. Your travel advisor can secure complimentary Internova Select or Curated perks such as perks such as hotel credits, breakfast for two, early check-in/late check-out (based on availability) and other extras.

ON THE FRONT COVER:

Shot on location at Aman, NYC, New York.

Photography by Su Müstecaplioğlu . Dress by The Row.

ON THE BACK COVER:

Shot on location at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Great Milton, England. Photography by Brad A. Johnson.

Executive Vice President, Partner Relations

Albert Herrera

Executive Vice President, Partner Relations

Peter Vlitas

Senior Vice President, Public Relations

Elizabeth Gaerlan

OLTRE is published quarterly by Internova Travel Group, one of the largest travel services companies in the world. Internova brands represent more than 100,000 travel advisors in more than 6,000 company-owned and affiliated locations throughout the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom, with a presence in more than 80 countries. Publisher assumes no responsibility for representations or changes to travel information and pricing described herein, which are subject to change and availability, and restrictions may apply. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written consent of Publisher. Direct editorial and subscription inquiries to editors@oltremag.com and advertising requests to advertising@oltremag. com. Internova Travel Group is headquartered at 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019; Internova. com. Copyright © 2024 Internova Travel Group.

Mondrian Ibiza Ibiza, Spain

JOIN US ON OUR REIMAGINED SHIPS FOR A VOYAGE OF A LIFETIME

BOOK ONE OF OUR EXCEPTIONAL ITINERARIES BY CONTACTING YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR. PART OF ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRAVEL GROUP

HUMANS OF VOLUME 7

Fall 2024

-R: Brad A. Johnson , Editorial

(Orange County, California) ;

Angeles, California); Katie Kelly Bell , Writer (Atlanta, Georgia);

(Los Angeles, California) ; Jenny B.

,

, Writer (Dallas, Texas); Adam Erace , Writer (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) ; Nicholas Gill , Writer (Pound Ridge, New York); Christina Gliha , Illustrator (Toronto, Canada); Maria C. Hunt , Writer (Oakland, California); Devorah Lev-Tov , Writer (Brooklyn, New York); Su Müstecaplıoğlu , Photographer (New York, New York); Don Nichols , Reporter (Dallas, Texas) ; Carolyn O'Neil, Correspondent (Atlanta, Georgia) , Chris Schalkx , Correspondent (Bangkok, Thailand) ; Marina Spironetti , Correspondent (Milan, Italy) ; Joe Thomas , Photographer (New York, New York); Tasha Tongpreecha , Casting Director (New York, New York); Jennifer Weston , Copy Editor (Seattle, Washington); Lina Zeldovich , Writer (New York, New York).

L

Director

Devin Duckworth , Design Director (Los

Tanvi Chheda

Writer

Davis

The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.

A safari is unlike any other experience and Micato Safaris is unlike any other company: For every safari sold, we send a child to school. Contact your travel advisor for details.

EMBRACE THE FESTIVE SPIRIT

Whether you’re dreaming of sun or snow, feel the warmth of the holidays with a Four Seasons getaway. From sun-dappled lazy rivers to mountaintop heated pools, we’ll be there to make sure it all goes swimmingly.

CONTACT A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE BENEFITS AVAILABLE WHEN BOOKING FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS

ADVENTURES

IN CHINA

“Fragmented in Green with Cathedral and Lambs”

“Fragmented in Blue with Sailing Ships” Broken plate, ink on paper

WE'VE ALL BEEN THERE, YES? DROPPING A CHERISHED PIECE OF CHINA. INSTEAD OF THROWING IT AWAY, ARTIST ROBERT STRATI HAD AN EPIPHANY.

New York, New York

Rob Strati didn’t despair when he accidentally smattered a Blue Willow dinner plate, an heirloom he and his wife had inherited from her mother. The artist gathered the porcelain bits from his kitchen floor and, after months of contemplation, turned the fragments into a work of art that would inspire an ongoing series, the subsequent works of which are less tragic. His evergrowing “Fragments” series has hung on the walls this year at the Fremin Gallery in New York and the Royal Academy of Arts in London, with additional stops in Miami and Dubai. Strati says the “Sailing Ship” pieces speak to him most: “I grew up going to Cape Cod every summer, and those plates were quietly part of the experience, as were the ideas of sailing, old captains’ homes, lighthouses and traveling the sea.”

“The Race” Broken plate, ink on paper

SOUND/BAR

ONE OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE BARS IN LOS ANGELES FOR DECADES, THE GEORGIAN ROOM IS BACK FROM ITS FACELIFT AND MORE FABULOUS THAN EVER.

Santa Monica, California

The Georgian

The 84-room, eight-story hotel overlooks the Santa Monica beach from atop Ocean Avenue. Your travel advisor can secure Internova Curated perks, including a $100 resort credit, plus additional benefits if booking a suite. $

“Why Don’t You Do Right?” by Amy Irving, Charles Fleischer

“Cajun Moon” by J. J. Cale

“Make Some Room” by The Suffers

“Memories” by Klaus Waldeck, Zeebee

“Ruby Lee” by Bill Withers

“The Girl from Ipanema” by Amy Winehouse

“American Boy” by Estelle

“Doo Uap, Doo Uap, Doo Uap” by Gabin, Sefano Di Battista

“Take Yo’ Praise” by Camille Yarbrough

“High No More” by Hajaj

“The Sun” by Parov Stelar, Graham Candy

“Henry & Gingerale” by Mayer Hawthorne

“Love Song” by Kazy Lambist, Glasses

“Jealous Guy” by Donny Hathaway

“Redbone” by Childish Gambino

The dimly lit, reservations-only Georgian Room is the underground speakeasy-turned-steakhouse beneath The Georgian hotel. Dating to the 1930s, the hotel and bar both recently reopened after glorious restorations. To enter the basement hideaway, you’ll first need to locate the doorbell, then promise to put away your phone — discretion required. Nights are occasionally filled with live jazz (ooh, that 1918 Steinway), but just as often the room reverberates with a soundtrack of rootsy, soulful electro-swing curated by L.A. artist and “sound stylist” Sloane Angell.

WRITING: BRAD A. JOHNSON

The Georgian Room

IN THE HEART OF SONOMA WINE COUNTRY, discover the wonder of Healdsburg’s hidden charms.

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.

On Location at Montage Healdsburg

BIG SKY | DEER VALLEY | HEALDSBURG | KAPALUA BAY

LAGUNA BEACH | LOS CABOS | PALMETTO BLUFF

Washington, D.C.

Now – January 19

WHAT’S ON

SAVE THE DATE. THESE ARE THE MUST-ATTEND OPENINGS, EXHIBITS, GALAS AND RACES ON OUR AGENDA THIS SEASON.

Barcelona, Spain

October 12 – 27

Tokyo, Japan

Now – January 19

“Louise Bourgeois: I have been to hell and back…” at the Mori Art Museum

Del Mar, California

November 1 – 2

Buenos Aires, Argentina

November 1 – December 7

San Francisco, California

December 6 – 29

The Louis Vuitton 37th America’s Cup Match Race Finals

Cambridge, Massachusetts

October 18 – 20

Milan, Italy

December 10

Opening night of La Scala Opera, featuring La Forza del Destino

Argentine Polo Open Championship at Campo Argentino de Polo

Christopher Burke (Louise Bourgeois, The Couple),

Job

Vermeulen (America's Cup),

Grace Ramey (Breeders' Cup),

Chino Rocha (Campo de Polo), Lindsey Rallo (SF

Ballet), Marco Brescia (La Scala)

The Nutcracker, season opener of San Francisco Ballet, at War Memorial Opera House

“Paris 1874: The Impressionist Moment” at the National Gallery of Art

Breeders’ Cup horse racing world championships

Head of the Charles Regatta rowing competition

From breathtaking beach resorts to stylish ski retreats and chic city escapes, indulge in unparalleled experiences with the IHG Luxury & Lifestyle Collection. To learn more or for reservations, contact your travel professional.

Where to EAT Next

DOVER SOLE IN LONDON, STEAK TARTARE IN LOS CABOS, WILD BOAR IN TUSCANY AND MORE. THESE ARE OUR FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES AROUND THE WORLD.

LONDON, ENGLAND – Opened in 1910, The Goring was the city’s last baby grand hotel of the Edwardian era. Family-run since its inception, the inn has always maintained a focus on tradition — perhaps too much so, as far as the kitchen was concerned. But that's been fixed. The beloved Dining Room at The Goring closed for a spell this year and underwent a complete makeover and reboot, which included a total gutting and rebuilding of its more-than-100-year-old basement kitchen. Chef Graham Squire is, thankfully, still at the helm. Although he still toils in the basement, his sparkly new kitchen, with its private counter for VIPs, just might help his modern British cooking to earn a second Michelin star. It would be very well-deserved. The roasted Orkney Island scallop with lemon verbena and brown butter — just, wow. And the classic table-side Dover sole is an apt testament to maintaining traditions. Meanwhile, the revamped dining room is a magnificent, Bridgerton -esque nod to England’s enduring upper crust, with massive hydrangeas in the windows and tongue-in-cheek artwork adorning the walls. Do not pass through London without eating here. Jackets are suggested for the guys. thegoring.com

REPORTING: TANVI CHHEDA, ADAM ERACE, NICHOLAS GILL, MARIA C. HUNT, BRAD A. JOHNSON, CAROLYN O’NEIL, CHRIS SCHALKX AND MARINA SPIRONETTI

The Dining Room at The Goring

Brad A. Johnson

CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO – The decades-long fascination with “Baja Mediterranean” cuisine in Los Cabos jumped the shark years ago. But forget that. Baja Med is back with a vengeance. Renowned chef Miguel Baltazar recently relocated to Cabo’s western cape after celebrated runs in Zihuatanejo and the Riviera Maya (see OLTRE Vol. 2). He has just launched Palmerio, the signature restaurant at the new Four Seasons Cabo San Lucas at Cabo del Sol, where he has masterfully reinvigorated this once-maligned genre. In his hands, it finally makes sense. Baltazar has long been one of Mexico’s most ardent champions of his country’s rich culinary heritage, and that hasn’t changed. He works with exquisite burrata from Oaxaca, sea salt from Guerrero, clams from La Paz, spiny lobster from local fishermen, wines from San Miguel de Allende and Valle de Guadalupe… While his menu might look and sound French or Italian, his pantry is almost purely Mexican. He pairs those clams, raw, with pickled pears and local almond foam. He serves those lobsters over house-made squid-ink tagliolini. And his take on beef tartare, with Mexican garlic, capers and fennel flowers, might be the best you’ll ever eat. Conceptually European yet distinctly locavore Mexican, this is not fusion. It is simply brilliant cooking. And lest anyone start reminiscing about summers in Positano or Provençe, the restaurant’s all-female mariachi troupe will snap you back to Baja. They are absolutely fantastic; their joy, utterly contagious. fourseasons.com/cabosanlucas

MIAMI, FLORIDA – Rising-star chef and occasional rapper Nando Chang has reimagined Itamae, his beloved Japanese-Peruvian restaurant that started out as a family-run food-hall stall. Now dubbed Itamae AO , the 2.0 restaurant is connected to his star-chef sister Valerie Chang’s restaurant, Maty’s, and consists of merely a 10-seat counter. Itamae AO ( ao being the Japanese transliteration for the color of the ocean) serves only an omakase-style tasting menu, for which Chang experiments with acidity, fish butchery and dry aging, all to the beat of a thumping hip-hop soundtrack. itamaeao.com

Itamae AO

Palmerio

SINGAPORE – The full name of Air CCCC is a mouthful: Awareness, Impact and Responsibility Circular Campus and Cooking Club. But the mission of chefs Will Goldfarb (of Bali’s Room4Dessert) and Matthew Orlando (formerly of Noma and Amass in Copenhagen) is deceptively simple: to inspire thought about modern-day food systems through zero-waste cooking. They’re creating brilliantly innovative nose-to-tail and root-tofruit creations such as coral-grouper-head rillettes served with lavash made from the fish's bones, and papaya slices in a cream extracted from the fruit's lacto-fermented seeds. aircccc.com

NAPA, CALIFORNIA – It was while serving as sommelier at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry that Aubrey Bailey became an expert in tequila, which lead to her (along with business partner Taylor Domin) opening some of the wine country’s hottest bars. Their latest triumph is Chispa , a tequila and tapas bar where every dish has a spark, from a simple skirt steak with chimichurri to guacamole crowned in Dungeness crab or even kung pao octopus that’s like a sweet and spicy firecracker. Even the most jaded tequila aficionados will be wowed by the bar’s towering collection: Fuenteseca, Cascahuín, Casa Dragones, G4 and more. chispabar.com

Air CCCC

Chispa

Culinary Excellence Aboard

Embark on an all-inclusive luxury voyage where each overnight stay unveils rich cultures and unforgettable experiences. Indulge in global cuisine crafted by world-class chefs, making every bite as delightful as the journey itself. Experience the essence of true luxury with Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

CONTACT A TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE INFORMATION

BOGATÁ, COLOMBIA – The ingredients of Colombia’s páramos (the high-altitude wetlands of which the country possesses 50 percent of the world’s total) and their links to adjacent ecosystems get their due. Chef Jeferson García (who trained at Central in Lima, Boragó in Santiago, Gaggan in Bangkok…) searches these landscapes up to 15,000 feet in altitude for endemic flowers, herbs and fruits for his intimate, modernist menus at Afluente , where there are never more than four ingredients to a plate. afluenterestaurante.com

ATLANTA, GEORGIA – The Scots brought us oatmeal and salmon. OK, and haggis — but hang on. Now, at Nàdair , Scotland’s favorites have finally found a champion on this side of the pond. Chef Kevin Gillespie draws on his ancestral roots to create seasonal tasting menus with the likes of grilled scallop and peach-glazed pork belly, a purely vegetarian haggis pie and, for dessert, the Tipsy Laird trifle. The restaurant’s name is Scots Gaelic for “the way of nature,” and this wood-fired kitchen on Zonolite Park is Gillespie’s salute to the cuisines and traditions of both Scotland and the American South. nadairatl.com

PENNSYLVANIA – Neighborhood taverns cling like barnacles to the corners of this city, the bricks and woodwork centuries-old but the concepts inside evolving. Typifying the phenomenon, Meetinghouse opened late last year. It’s run by a ragtag group of industry pals that includes chef Andrew DiTomo, whose straightforward, exquisitely produced pub-core menu — verdant stacked salads, revolving Sunday roasts, hot roast-beef sandwiches, vanilla ice cream drenched in Jacquin’s jungle-green crème de menthe — is as London, and as Philly, as the famous photo of Princess Di in an Eagles bomber. meetinghousebeer.com

PHILADELPHIA,

Meetinghouse

Afluente

Nàdair

Gonzalo Picón (Afluente) and

Angie Mosier (Nàdair)

SAVOR THE JOURNEY

An evolution of the senses. A revolution of flavor. An infusion of past favorites and all-new additions. Prepare your palate for a colorful spectrum of gastronomic proportions on board the all-new Norwegian Aqua™ — the latest in our newest and most experiential class of ships at sea. Delight in returning favorites like Cagney’s Steakhouse and brand-new concepts like Sukhothai — a stunning, modern Thai restaurant that immerses you into authentic Thai flavors made from the finest ingredients. Dive into the wonderful world of dining excellence and discover elevated experiences at every corner that will make your mouth water — all while cruising to top destinations.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK YOUR NCL CRUISE TODAY

Sukhothai

Palomar

Cagney’s Steakhouse

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA – A few days before dinner at Honeysuckle Rose , a staff member will call to confirm not merely your dietary restrictions, but also your preference for water temperature. Upon arrival, a wax-sealed, individualized menu awaits. Opened last fall by husband-and-wife duo Ryan and Kelleanne Jones, the 30-seat restaurant offers five- and eight-course tasting menus highlighting local purveyors and Lowcountry farms. A single seating each night gives the place a dinner-party-like vibe as the chef and sommelier offer colorful commentary on each course. honeysucklerosechs.com

TUSCANY, ITALY – Chef Cristiano Milighetti’s just-opened Vitaleta Gourmet is one of the hottest reservations in Italy, located next door to the iconic Vitaleta chapel in the rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia region of Siena. A sanctuary of modern Tuscan cuisine, the restaurant has only six tables, each curtained off in its own gauzy alcove with a different postcard view. Three different menus are available. One revisits classics such as pici and liver pâté. Another delivers a delightful cappellacci with local wild boar and Tyrrhenian Sea purple shrimp. You will drink very well here, too, as sommelier Serena Tarquini guides you through wine pairings from the region’s finest producers. Advance booking is a must. Good luck getting in! vitaleta.co.it

Vitaleta Chapel and Vitaleta Gourmet

Honeysuckle Rose

Marina Spironetti (Vitaleta Chapel and Gourmet)

Experience the timeless allure of Arizona Biltmore. Immerse yourself in the tranquil oasis of Tierra Luna Spa, savor the bold flavors at Renata’s Hearth, unwind with craft cocktails at Spire Bar, and elevate your stay with exclusive access to Citrus Club.

HOT SHOTS

FROM THE AMERICAN SOUTH TO THE SWISS ALPS, NEWS FLASHES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

ART MOVEMENT IN THE FJORDS

Kristiansand, Norway – A 1930s grain silo in Kristiansand is the new home to the prestigious Tangen Collection, the world’s largest private holding of Nordic modern art. A major transformation, unveiled in May, converted the silo into the Kunstsilo Museum ( kunstsilo.no ). An increasingly popular cruise stop on the Fjord Coast of Southern Norway, the port city of Kristiansand now has a must-visit cultural venue with plenty of other impressive art, digital art immersions and international touring exhibitions.

GOOD TIMES AT THE ROYAL

Casablanca, Morocco – Here’s looking at you, justopened Royal Mansour Casablanca . Eight years in the making, this mid-century tower near the old medina and art deco district has been painstakingly restored and reimagined. An urban counterpoint to the original Royal Mansour in Marrakech, this retro-styled landmark oozes glitz and glam at every turn, with Andalusianinspired gardens and 600 crystal fish silhouettes in the lobby — an homage to the city’s history as a port. The 149 accommodations range from rooms and suites to private apartments. On the 23rd floor, with panoramic views, La Grande Table Marocaine serves lavish local tasting menus. Occupying the fourth and fifth floors: a 27,000-square-foot spa. $$

CHHEDA, DON NICHOLS AND MARINA SPIRONETTI

Royal Mansour Casablanca

"Seabound Two Nights in a Row" by Elina Brotherus at Kunstsilo Museum

Vals, Switzerland – Beyond the Clouds lives up to its lofty moniker. We’re talking about a new multi-night culinary experience from 7132 Silver, the Michelin twostar restaurant at 7132 Hotel in the Swiss Alps, where the hotel’s helicopter whisks guests to a mountaintop meadow 6,500 feet above sea level for a whitetablecloth alpine picnic with Champagne pairings by Louis Roederer. Although the setting is casual and completely different from the restaurant, guests can expect similar attention to detail. “It’s all about cooking in the wild, with an open fire, lots of smoke, foraged herbs, vegetables from local farms,” explains chef Marcel Koolen. The experience returns for its next run in the spring and includes a minimum three-night stay in the penthouse, plus private thermal baths. Rates from about $17,000 for two people .

NOW ENTERING THE LOUNGE ERA

New York, New York – The bar for VIP airport lounges at New York’s JFK had already just been raised by Capital One. Now comes the airport's Delta One Lounge from Delta Air Lines. This sleek, nearly 40,000-square-foot haven for business- and first-class passengers delivers serious pampering. The many amenities include a French brasserie, an art-deco-inspired bar, marble-clad shower suites and relaxation pods with zero-gravity massage chairs.

A GREAT BARRIER RELIEF

Johns Island, South Carolina – The barrier islands off Charleston have long been synonymous with golf courses and beachfront cottages. Sure to be a gamechanger, The Dunlin by Auberge , set along the Kiawah River on Johns Island, boasts 72 whitewashed rooms and suites with honey oak floors, gingham-upholstered four-poster beds and sage-green claw-foot tubs. Explore the marshlands by kayak, spotting herons and pelicans, or just take in the view from your private terrace, morning coffee in hand. $$

Chef Marcel Koolen in the Alps

Delta One Lounge

The Dunlin by Auberge

Marina Spironetti (7132 Hotel), Chris Rank (Delta)

Journey A Palate-Pleasing

Sweet golden honey harvested from a local bee farm. Austrian dumplings infused with hand-picked Wachau Valley apricots. Freshly caught oysters served with authentic French champagne. AmaWaterways’ farm-to-table seasonal ingredients are just the beginning of an immersive culinary river journey that includes fine dining at every meal, a daily complimentary cocktail hour and hand-selected wines from acclaimed European vineyards.

Contact your travel advisor to reserve your AmaWaterways river cruise today.

CHOW, VOYAGER

TWO MORE HIGH-PROFILE CHEFS JOIN THE RITZ-CARLTON’S YACHT COLLECTION

When The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection 's 224-suite Ilma sailed its maiden voyage in September, two well-known chefs made their seafaring debuts by way of new dining collaborations with the brand.

Seta Su Ilma is a fine-dining Italian restaurant by chef Fabio Trabocchi, whose Fiola restaurant in Washington, D.C., earned its sixth consecutive Michelin star in 2023. For a supplemental fee, guests can savor a seven-course tasting menu for dinner and, on select afternoons, a five-course tasting menu for lunch.

Meanwhile, the fire-born flavors of South and Central America inspire the menu at the indoor/outdoor Beach House , which showcases the creativity of chef Michael Mina, whose company (Mina Group) operates more than 30 restaurants worldwide.

Ilma will cruise the Mediterranean for most of October, then sail across the Atlantic to spend the holiday season navigating Caribbean waters: Puerto Rico, St. Barths, The Bahamas, Nevis, Turks and Caicos and beyond. Rates from about $6,500

MEAT, DRINK AND THEN SOME

Crystal recently announced two new dining collaborations.

The first: Monaco-based steakhouse Beefbar will open by year's end on both Symphony and Serenity (replacing Tastes Kitchen & Bar on both ships). The upscale chain, known for top-quality steaks and cocktails, has locations in Monte Carlo, London, Paris, Doha, São Paulo and New York. The second: Chefs Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo will open Osteria d'Ovidio on both ships. The Alajmo brothers operate the Michelin three-star Le Calandre in Padua, as well as 13 other family-owned restaurants from Marrakech to Paris. Although no date has been set, the restaurants are expected to open next year.

CHARTING A NEW COURSE

Coinciding with the launch of Explora II in September, Explora Journeys completely reimagined its Anthology restaurant, which was originally intended to showcase a rotating lineup of Michelin-star-earning guest chefs. Instead, it’s been flipped (on both Explora ships) into a glamorous fine-dining Italian restaurant with seven-course menus curated in-house by chef Franck Garanger, Explora’s head of culinary.

WRITING: DON NICHOLS

On a Boat: (Above) The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s Ilma debuted in September.

FRENCH PEAKS & VALLEYS

With top-rated leaders and a diverse collection of trips, find the active adventures you crave. Backroads small-group luxury tours guide you through the best of France, whether it’s hiking the mountains of Corsica or cruising through the lush vineyards of Bordeaux. Coast to coast and peak to peak, explore the best of France with one of our active tours in France. Bon Voyage!

Biking • Walking & Hiking • Multi-Adventure

Explore trips in Alsace, Bordeaux, Corsica, French Alps, Provence and many more!

Contact your travel advisor for more information

Un caffè, per favore!

A COFFEE SOMMELIER IN FLORENCE — YES, THAT’S A REAL THING — SAYS WE’VE BEEN DRINKING ESPRESSO WRONG, AND HE WANTS TO HELP US GET IT RIGHT.

Florence, Italy

The first impact is visual. “The crema on top of your espresso should never be too light, or too dark. Ambercolored — that's the perfect shade!” exclaims an excited Giuseppe Iaria, the coffelier (coffee sommelier) at Portrait Firenze. We are about to begin a vertical espresso tasting with three specialty coffees in the hotel’s luxuriously quaint Caffè dell’Oro, which overlooks Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, the pedestrian-friendly byway with unobstructed views of the Ponte Vecchio, now glowing in the warm afternoon light.

Iaria encourages guests to delve more deeply into Italy’s captivating world of coffee — a quintessential part of the culture, defined by rituals and gestures and intertwined with Mediterranean hospitality. His passion for anything caffeine-related is infectious. Coffee is deeply rooted in his childhood memories, he says. His great-uncles settled in Caracas, and they would bring bags of green coffee back from their visits to Venezuela. He would help roast and grind the beans. “I grew up with that smell,” he recalls. Today, he puts the same enthusiasm not only into guiding tastings, but also into ensuring that the coffee journey continues well beyond Portrait Firenze.

“Learning from other Maestri del Caffè is important,” he insists. For the hotel’s guests, he arranges private tours of the best cafes in Florence. Or, if you prefer to tour on your own, he happily shares his list of must-visit espresso counters, which includes the via Carducci branch of Ditta Artigianale ( dittaartigianale.com ), renowned for its focus on niche producers, and the historic Caffè Gilli ( caffegilli.com ) on Piazza della Repubblica. The oldest café in town, it’s very well-known. But what most people don’t know is that “the coffee they use is grown almost entirely in Tuscany and comes from a Florence-based company,” Iaria explains.

And if that’s not a deep-enough dive, you can also travel to the nearby city of Fiesole to visit the Accademia del Caffè Espresso ( accademiaespresso.com ) — a true haven with an indoor coffee plantation and education laboratories that guarantee a truly immersive experience.

& PHOTOGRAPHY: MARINA SPIRONETTI

Details:

Private espresso tours can be arranged through Portrait Firenze . Your travel advisor can secure Internova Select perks at the 37-room hotel, including a $100 dining credit in addition to daily breakfast for two. $$$.

Tour Buzz: Coffelier Giuseppe Iaria at Portrait Firenze, and the perfect shade of crema.

Silversea’s Northern Europe

BE PART OF THE MAJESTY

Come experience a place where you will be wowed daily. Let us take you deeper into Northern Europe and the British Isles to uncover not only regal castles, cozy cafés and capitals of food and wine, but also more-secluded gems — from the bird cliffs of Iceland’s Drangey Island and the deep-blue fjord of Norway’s Lysebotn to the history and charm of Sark in the Channel Islands. Join us to discover a region that is truly a feast for the senses — and the imagination.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO PLAN YOUR NEXT VACATION.

Lysefjord, Norway

What’s for Dinner?

OR WHERE? YOUR NEXT VACATION WANDERLUST MIGHT BE DETERMINED BY WHICH OF THESE NEW COOKBOOKS YOU OPEN FIRST.

WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: BRAD A. JOHNSON

Where to: Middle East The book: The Oldest Kitchen in the World: 4,000 Years of Middle Eastern Cooking by Matay de Mayee ( $35 )

Where to: Greece, Turkey, Lebanon The book: Zaytinya by José Andrés ( $45 )

Where to: Seoul, South Korea and Los Angeles, California The book: Koreaworld: a Cookbook by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard ($35)

Where to: Caribbean The book: Code Noir by Lelani Lewis ($35)

Where to: English countryside The book: The Farm Table by Julius Roberts ( $35 )

Where to: American Southwest The book: The Modern Navajo Kitchen by Alana Yazzie ($25)

Where to: London, England The book: The Connaught Bar by Agostino Perrone, Giorgio Bargiani and Maura Milia ( $40 )

Where to: Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria The book: The North African Cookbook by Jeff Koehler ($55)

Where to: South of France The book: Le Sud by Rebekah Peppler ( $35 )

Where to: San Antonio, Texas The book: Amá: a Modern Tex-Mex Kitchen by Josef Centeno and Betty Hallock ( $30 )

A PASSPORT FOR YOUR TASTE BUDS

World class cuisine and global goodness await when you sail with Royal Caribbean ® . Start your evening with sophisticated sips and gourmet bites at Vintages wine bar. Sabor Modern Mexican turns up the heat with dishes like zesty fried chile calamari and grilled cobia wrapped in a house-made tortilla. Satisfy Italian cravings at Giovanni’s SM Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar with rustic antipasti and perfectly tender osso buco. And don’t miss out on bold Asian creations at Izumi like sushi topped with torched wagyu and miso-glazed sea bass. Every bite is a new adventure waiting to be savored.

Izumi Japanese Cuisine

Wonderland

Imaginative Cuisine

Hooked Seafood SM

Jamie’s Italian by Jamie Oliver

Beauty and the Feast

FOR ANYONE WHO’S EVER THOUGHT: “YOU SMELL SO GOOD, I COULD EAT YOU” ADD THESE ITEMS TO YOUR CARRY-ON.

ART DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINA GLIHA

D.S. & DURGA “ PISTACHIO POUCH ”

(50 mL Pistachio Eau de Parfum + 10 mL roller) $250

Ingredients: Coumarin , limonene (citrus extract) and linalool (herbs, flowers and woods).

Why we love it : Smells like clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and pistachios. All natural and adheres to environmental regulations of the IFRA. All ingredients are vegan, never tested on animals and paraben/phthalate free.

U BEAUTY “ THE SUPER INTENSIVE FACE OIL” (30 mL) $188

Ingredients: Astaxanthin (antioxidant), botanical extracts, avocado oil, vegan squalane, hyaluronic acid, stabilized vitamins C + E, peptides. Why we love it: Great glow-up. Smells heavenly. And it’s manufactured with green energy in a CO2-neutral facility.

TRUE BOTANICALS “ GINGER TURMERIC HYDRAGLOW FACE CREAM ” (1.7 oz | 50 ml) $110

BONJOUT BEAUTY “ LE BALM 8-IN-1 SOLID SERUM ” (1 oz) $120

Ingredients: Prickly pear native stem cells, organic prickly pear oil, bluebird hibiscus native stem cells, sunflower seed wax, collagen, hyaluronic acid. Why we love it: Smells like dessert. Le Balm’s macaron case is refillable for endless use. All refill pods, cartons and outer sleeves are recyclable. Secondary paper packaging is FSC-certified. Bonjout Beauty’s lab extracts and multiplies whole native cells from living plants, unlike traditional extraction processes that cut and, ultimately, kill thousands of plants.

Ingredients: Ginger root, turmeric, milk thistle, basil leaf extract, green tea and oils of tangerine, cucumber, apricot and rosemary. Why we love it: Smells like bergamot and ginger. This brand seeks to fight deforestation and climate change by sourcing ingredients from regenerative farms. True Botanicals also donates to Grow Ahead, an organization that raises funds to help farmers transition to regenerative agriculture.

HERBAL FACE FOOD “ THE EYE CREAM ” (30 mL) $390

Ingredients: 200 antiaging and regenerative botanicals, including lemongrass, mandarin, wild chamomile, thyme, oregano, clove, jasmine, sage, rosemary, cinnamon, star anise, honey, lemon, cardamom and raspberry seeds. Why we love it: It is 100% edible (not saying we’ve done that) and makes us feel pretty. Sustainably sourced, cruelty-free, organic/wild-crafted, handmade, free from parabens and GMOs and ethically sourced.

Smell Test: Xinú’s new Colonia Juárez boutique, the monstera perfume and olfactory experience

Scents of Place

INSPIRED BY INDIGENOUS BOTANICALS, AN ARTISANAL PERFUMERY SHOWCASES SIGNATURE SCENTS THROUGH STYLISH, IMMERSIVE BOUTIQUES.

Mexico City, Mexico

With every whiff, Xinú evokes emotion, memory and meaning. The artisanal perfumery, based in Mexico City, harnesses the alchemy of scent to elevate North America’s underappreciated indigenous botanicals.

“Our aspiration,” explains Xinú operations director Rocío Astudillo, “is to transport our clients to the abundance and exoticism of the Americas.”

Xinú blends ingredients like agave and monstera. But it’s not just a pursuit of fragrance. Another element makes Xinú special: design. This comes courtesy of Héctor Esware and Ignacio Cadena, the multidisciplinary creatives who helped launch the company in 2016. (Past projects range from hotels and homes to cultural centers and cafes.) With Xinú, they complement innovative fragrances with immersive boutiques that are modern, multisensory and mega-stylish.

Each of Xinú’s four boutiques — from its flagship in Mexico City’s tony Polanco neighborhood or the more recent addition in the city’s Colonia Juárez to its chic outpost in San Miguel de Allende — is designed to be “a sanctuary where art, nature and olfactory science converge,” Astudillo says.

The effect is never precious. Interaction and exploration are encouraged. Curated tabletop vignettes introduce Xinú’s signature ingredients, and each can be smelled and sampled

in myriad ways. In fact, smelling is often unavoidable — the lush gardens surrounding the Mexico City boutiques boast some of the very same blooms, like Mexican tuberose, that are featured in their fragrances.

And while space and scent prove integral, what might be more impressive are the containers. Xinú’s perfume bottles are crafted in Mexico from hemispheres of handblown glass and wood. They are designed to acquire a second life when emptied. Same for the handcrafted ceramic cups that hold their candles. Whether used as vases, cups or, as Astudillo suggests, “decorative pieces of contemplation,” these vessels, she believes, become as evocative as their fragrance, symbolizing “olfactory joy, conscious luxury, authenticity, beauty and cutting-edge design.”

WRITING: JENNY B. DAVIS

Details:

Perfumes and candles start around $110; body care products from $50. Multiple locations in Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende. xinuperfumes.com.

Alejandro Ramirez Orozco

EXTRA ORDINARY MEASURES

A NEW GENERATION OF GENTLEMEN’S TAILORS IN BANGKOK HAS REDEFINED THE CITY ’ S BESPOKE SUIT TRADE.

Bangkok, Thailand

WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS SCHALKX

In the world of menswear tailoring, the old adage rings that a suit can be good, cheap or made fast — but never all three at once. Since the upsurge of tourism in Thailand in the 1970s, Bangkok’s tailor shops famously carved out a reputation for delivering on cheap and fast: suits for as little as $300, measured, cut and stitched in the span of a business trip or beach holiday.

But offering such low prices and speedy turnarounds often results in garments held together with glue that are the antithesis of the canvas bindings and long-lasting stitchwork of Savile Row or Neapolitan tailoring. And while cheap and quick might prove adequate for the occasional suit wearer, a growing cohort of young Thai tailors prioritizes quality and heritage over speed, catering to a sartorially savvy audience who’s more than willing to pay a premium for it.

“When we started out, we had plenty of customers ask us to finish a suit within a week,” says Panitpong Wattananukij, cofounder of The Primary Haus in Bangkok’s upscale Thonglor district. “We had to politely explain that a good suit takes time, that investing in better fabrics and construction pays off in the long run.”

Wattananukij and his team eschew the classic British cut long favored by Bangkok’s tailor shops — padded shoulders, heavy fabrics — for a more casual Italian style, distinguished by relaxed fits and lightweight fabrics better suited to Thailand's tropical climate. “Thanks to YouTube and Instagram, people have become more aware of these styles,” says Wattananukij. “It’s still a niche market, but it's growing." Such handiwork-heavy constructions do take time, though. Most of Primary Haus’ bespoke two-piece suits, from about $2,350, take around eight months from start to finish.

Aside from their elevated styles, tailors such as Primary Haus have also leveled up their sales experience. Instead of the in-and-out approach of a previous generation’s fluorescent-lit tailor shops in tucked-away plazas and tourist-heavy hotel arcades, these next-gen haberdashers dole out top-to-toe style advice in showrooms designed for lingering.

Couturier Thattaworn 'Vvon' Sugunnasil's eponymous atelier is a case in point. Taking over a handsome 1970s bungalow surrounded by tropical gardens in the Sathorn district, Vvon Sugunnasil ’s honey-hued interiors are furnished with mid-century pieces that are as eye-catching as the sharp-cut suits (starting at $1,100) that he creates for his high-society clientele.

“A growing cohort of young Thai tailors prioritizes quality and heritage over speed, catering to a sartorially savvy audience who's more than willing to pay a premium.”

Fit Club: (Opposite) The Somchai is Thailand’s exclusive purveyor of Liverano & Liverano. And no ordinary buttons at Vvon Sugunnasil. (Top) Thattaworn “Vvon” Sugunnasil in his atelier and (above) tools of th e trade at The Decorum.

Others, such as The Decorum , with three locations in the city, turn their shops into one-stop menswear destinations by supplementing bespoke tailoring services with ready-to-wear must-haves from carefully curated labels — jackets by Ascot Chang, for example, butter-soft loafers by Baudoin & Lange and silk ties by Japan-based Shibumi — as well as trunk shows by artisans such as Japanese shirtmaker Kamakura Shirts and London-based footwear brand John Lobb. Bespoke suits start at around $8,000.

The Decorum recently hosted a pop-up at its Gaysorn Village penthouse with famed London suit maker Robert Bailey, a fixture on Savile Row for 35 years. And in August, this same location transformed a cozy nook into a permanent shoeshine lounge by Japan’s Brift H. It’s like a little barbershop for your shoes.

Meanwhile, The Somchai in Thonglor collaborates with renowned Florentine tailoring house Liverano & Liverano on bespoke two-piece suits with price tags that start around $8,000. Cofounder Lapas Mekraksavanich, who spent five years studying with tailors in Italy, counts young scions from all over Asia as his clients and has become the city’s go-to sage

for classic Italian style advice. Aside from Liverano suits (for which The Somchai is the exclusive purveyor in Thailand), the store stocks silky Italian casual wear and accessories and deals in custom orders with British shoemaker Edward Green and made-to-measure suits fashioned from archival vintage fabrics by Neapolitan tailor Orazio Luciano.

“Our clients search for new ways to express themselves,” says Mekraksavanich. “We're here to make them feel comfortable and confident. You can see a world of change between the first time they come through the door and the moment they finally step out in their first real suit.”

Details:

Bespoke suits by appointment only.

Primary Haus , from $2,350, @theprimaryhaus

Vvon Sugunnasil , from $1,100, vvonsugunnasil.com

The Decorum , from $8,000, thedecorumbkk.com

The Somchai , from $8,000, thesomchai.com

Social Fabric: (Left) A suit in progresss at Vvon Sugunnasil. (Above) Tailor Nanat Charoonrak at The Decorum.

FINALLY, A VACATION WORTH THE CALORIES

If you consider delicious eats a top priority on vacation, we’re going to get along just fine. Our food is globally inspired, locally sourced, and made fresh daily, but most importantly it’s just really good. With so many restaurants serving up daring new dishes and classics done right, you’ll wish there were more meals in the day. But, who’s counting?

LAPS OF LUXURY

THE TOP-TIER SUITES AT THE NEWEST SANDALS ARE UNLIKE ANYTHING ELSE OFFERED THUS FAR FROM THE UBIQUITOUS CARIBBEAN BRAND.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

PHOTOGRAPHY: BRONWYN KNIGHT

WRITING: CAROLYN O’NEIL

The stunning ocean views, white-sand beach and vertical mountain backdrop all compete for my attention, yet my eyes keep going elsewhere. They seem to want to watch the waves crashing gently beneath the glass floor of my twostory, overwater villa.

Sandals operates resorts all over the Caribbean, but the 300-room Sandals Saint Vincent is the brand's first property to offer an overwater product like this. Mine is one of only 10 such units here.

These thatched-roof villas opened over the summer, following the resort’s spring soft launch. Each is designed with soothing natural color schemes that extend throughout its nearly 1,250 square feet of indoor and outdoor spaces. The lower level would be a nice-enough suite on its own, with its huge double-head shower in the bathroom and its king bedroom with louvered doors that slide away to reveal my own private swim deck, lounge chairs and breakfast nook — not to mention a pantry in the foyer, which the butler has just finished restocking with complimentary coffee, water, soft drinks, beer, wine and premium spirits.

Nevertheless, I find myself more frequently enjoying the open-air second level, which is especially fabulous at sunset as I watch boats on the horizon through a gigantic telescope. It’s like a whole other hideaway up here with yet another fully stocked fridge, plush daybed, outdoor shower and soaking tub. At night, I bathe and marvel at all the stars.

The villas come with Sandals’ top-tier “butler elite” perks and services. My own dedicated staff delivers breakfast in bed and afternoon cocktails. They orchestrate my kayaking adventure to the bat caves, help outfit me for reef snorkeling and schedule my AquaFit pool class — that is, when I’m not just lolling in the sun. And oh, look, I’ve run out of limes for my G&Ts. [ring ring ] “Um, hello, butler? It’s me again.”

The lushly landscaped property sprawls across a 50acre private cove, with several pools (not counting all those private plunge pools at the beachfront villas), 11 dining options and nine bars scattered about. My favorite meals are the ones taken at Buccan, a restaurant that embraces the island’s rich agricultural heritage and “Vincy” culture, featuring Caribbean dishes cooked over fire.

Leaving the islands is always hard. But this resort makes leaving fun. Because I'm booked into the top-tier accommodations, I get complimentary boat transfers (bonus: scenic tours of the coastline) from Sandals’ private dock to a marina near the airport.

Sandals Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

Butler-tier amenities include VIP transfers, private check-in, unpacking/packing and pressing services, elevated dining perks and more. $$ – $$$$.

Adult Swim: (Opposite) Two-story overwater villa at the all-inclusive, adults-only Sandals Saint Vincent. (From left) In-villa dining and resort’s private beachfront.

GO WITH THE FLOW

FOR THE BEST VIEWS OF EUROPE’S MOST BEAUTIFUL WINE REGION, DITCH THE CAR AND HEAD TO THE RIVER

Rhine and Mosel Valleys, Germany

WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: MARINA SPIRONETTI

Imagine a gondola gliding above a hillside blanketed with vineyards — a sweeping green landscape spreading out as far as the eye can see. In the valley below, Rüdesheim’s skyline of slate rooftops and onion domes frames the majestic flow of the Rhine.

We are on our third day of a cruise on AmaCerto , a luxury river ship in the AmaWaterways fleet. It's an intimate vessel with only 81 cabins, and everyone on this sailing is here for three reasons: wine, wine and more wine. After a beautiful start through water-shaped Amsterdam, the Dutch flatlands and Düsseldorf’s pioneering architectures, we now venture into the depths of an oenophile journey through Germany’s noblest and most famous wine region.

The first vineyards appeared on the steep riverbanks earlier in the morning, just after Koblenz, when we entered the Rhine Gorge. This 40-mile stretch of uninterrupted beauty is a landscape of history, borne witness by more than 40 castles (and legends, like the siren Lorelei, who tempted sailors to jump ship and swim ashore). Her rocky cliff is one of the most-awaited spots along this UNESCO-listed route.

The Big Lift: (Clockwise from upper left) AmaCerto docked in Wasserbillig, Luxembourg; Vanja, the ship’s purser ; and the gondola over vineyards in Rüdesheim.

Perched on nearly vertical slopes, the scenic Riesling vineyards become a constant, almost reassuring presence throughout our journey. Harvested mostly by hand, the “queen of grapes" adapts perfectly to the area’s harsh climate. Riesling originated here on the Rhine.

“Without this weather, riesling would not have its elegance.” explains Mary Jolie, our onboard wine host (visiting from Willamette Valley Vineyards in Oregon). She has become a point of reference for all the wine enthusiasts onboard. All of AmaWaterways’ wine-themed cruises allow guests to sail with experts who bring bottles from their estates and compare them with local wines. Among the events are seminars, wine dinners and plenty of tastings.

“Everything is even more about slow travel here. It’s all about going with the flow, quite literally."

“It’s all about connections between Old and New World wines,” Jolie continues. “I love all the different styles of rieslings they produce here. It’s fun to be able to enjoy those alongside the varieties I brought from home.”

“In a way, most European river cruises are already wine-related,” says cruise manager Louis Egan. “The Romans introduced winemaking everywhere, and the river slopes give vines a safe environment in which to grow.”

AmaWaterways’ wine-themed itineraries allow for a more intensive focus on the vineyards, with more wines to taste and sub-regions to explore.

Beyond biking and walking tours, there is a wine-tasting option with a local producer at every stop. Ask for a riesling, and expect more questions about what kind you want.

“Perhaps a dry trocken, a fresh kabinett or a sweet auslese,” winemaker Adolf Störzel suggests with a smile when we visit his 16th-century cellar in Rüdesheim.

Bottle Docket: (From top) Wine for sale at the Vinothek in Bernkastel-Kues; vineyards amid the ruins of Ehrenfels castle by Rüdesheim am Rhein; and a private dining room set for wine tasting aboard the AmaCerto

“I love the booth seating option in the dining room, which makes this ship different from the other river-cruise lines. The booths are much more intimate for couples, or just a quieter option for a table of four.”

—Lou

Conkling, travel advisor

Also, there is a world beyond riesling, ranging from lightly floral müller-thurgau, the second most-planted grape in the country, to low-acidity sylvaner and aromatic scheurebe, an often-derided variety experiencing a bit of a renaissance.

Back to Koblenz on our fifth day of navigation, captain Dennis Visser steers toward the Mosel under the severe look of the first German Kaiser, whose equestrian monument dominates the confluence of the two rivers. The ‘Rhine’s little sister’ is more peaceful — and equally enchanting.

Everything is even more about slow travel here. It’s all about going with the flow, quite literally. Time is marked by the regular appearance of locks — 10 on the Mosel alone. Squeezing through each one is a breathtaking experience.

More surprises await, like Bernkastel, a romantic ensemble of half-timbered houses where the occasional grapevines poetically crawl their way up walls. Vineyards begin immediately after the last houses — a symbolic embrace that speaks loudly for the area’s devotion to wine.

Details:

AmaWaterways’ wine-themed cruises ply the rivers through Germany’s Rhine and Mosel Valleys, as well as Portugal’s Douro Valley, Austria’s Wachau Valley and France's Bordeaux, Provence, Champagne and Calvados, among others. Sevennight itineraries start around $3,000.

Downstream Activity: (Clockwise from top) The garden at the Weinhaus Hieronimi tasting room in Cochem, sampling wine at the Vinothek in Bernkastel-Kues and AmaCerto docked in Bernkastel-Kues.

Brilliant For You

Always-included, award-winning dining at sea

You may have thought the words “Michelin-curated” and “cruise” would never go together, but that was before Virgin Voyages set sail. On our award-winning lady ships, we’ve done away with buffets and replaced them with Michelin-curated menus at over 20+ eateries that are changing the game when it comes to onboard dining. When you sail with us, you’ll be able to enjoy any of our onboard eateries (including six full service restaurants) totally free. That’s right – thanks to our policy of Always-Included Luxury, food at all of our eateries is already included in your fare (as is gratuity for your servers). That means you’ll be able to sample succulent steaks while sitting beside jaw-dropping ocean views at The Wake, savor an exclusive dining experience at Gunbae, or immerse yourself in our chef-driven tasting menu inspired by Escoffier’s Ma Cuisine at our Test Kitchen all without leaving the ship or dropping another dollar. That’s why Cruise Critics named us the best dining in the industry.

At Virgin Voyages, we’re elevating every part of the cruise experience for an Always-Included Luxury experience, all the way down to what’s on your plate.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TODAY

SIBLING REVELRY

RUSSIAN STEAM BATHS, CHILLED KING CRABS, HIGH-INTENSITY WORKOUTS... AMAN’S NEW OFFSHOOT, JANU, IS WHERE LEG DAYS AND CHEAT DAYS CONVERGE.

Tokyo, Japan

Since opening its first resort in a coconut grove in Phuket in the late 1980s, Aman has become synonymous with rest and relaxation. Its very name, after all, is Sanskrit for “peace." Over the last few decades, Aman resorts have popped up in far-flung corners of the globe and offered space, quietude and an abundance of untouched nature at their doorsteps. Aman villas were designed as ultra-private mini-retreats aimed at slowing you down. Experiences zero in on everything zen. By design, guests rarely mingle with, or even see, other guests.

Enter Janu, Aman’s new sister brand, which has a different proposition: to make you sweat. And eat. And socialize. “Modern lifestyles increasingly prioritize wellness and active living,” says Yuki Kiyono, Aman’s global head of health and wellness development. “Janu’s approach to well-being aligns with current trends that value fitness, social interaction and diverse wellness activities.”

In March, Janu debuted in central Tokyo’s Azabudai Hills, in a sprawling complex of rooftop gardens and curved concrete designed by London-based Heatherwick Studio. The hotel occupies the 13 lower floors of a gleaming silver high-rise — and has dedicated almost a third of those to its wellness center.

Before and After: (Opposite) The pool at Janu Tokyo and (above) chilled seafood at the all-day Janu Mercato restaurant.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“Janu's gym has everything you could possibly imagine. It’s in a great neighborhood, too — walking distance to the Tokyo Tower and a beautiful wooded area with a shrine, as well as teamLab Borderless, a must-visit, interactive digital art museum.”

—Lauren Ireland, travel advisor

Covering more than 43,000 square feet, the center is a veritable wellness Valhalla. Facilities include a 25-meter lap pool and heated lounge pool next a fireplace clad in glass and slate. There are two extensive hydrotherapy circuits equipped with steam rooms, saunas, cold plunge pools and Japanese-style baths — a high-spec riff on Japan’s traditional sento bathhouses, where communities would socialize. Those looking to relax in privacy can opt for one of the two Spa Houses, which feature private treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities and a full-fledged hammam and Russian banya steam bath.

But it’s within the fitness center, one of the largest in a Tokyo hotel, where Janu’s community spirit really shines. At the gym, fitted with state-of-the-art equipment by TechnoGym and Outrace, instructors lead group classes that bring hotel guests and members of the $600-a-month Wellness Collective together for pranayama breathwork sessions, meditation workshops and cardio workouts. Nearby, a handful of dedicated studios house a kickboxing ring, a golf simulator and an indoor cycling studio.

Janu’s other amenities further hammer down its community ethos. In the restaurants, which range from chichi Chinese at Hu Jing to seasonal Edomae-style sushi at Iigura, open kitchens and communal counter seating encourage interaction with chefs and other guests. At Mercato, a light-flooded all-day Italian diner, tables spill out onto Azabudai Hills’ breezy courtyard, welcoming passersby to drop in for a bite.

Rubbing Shoulders: (From top) A traditional Japanese bath and the Janu gym. (Opposite) The breakfast spread at Janu Grill.

“It’s within the fitness center, one of the largest in a Tokyo hotel, where Janu’s community spirit really shines. At more than 43,000 square feet, it is a veritable wellness Valhalla.”

The remainder of the hotel is devoted to the 122 rooms and suites, which feature the clean lines and pared-back color palettes for which Aman is known while weaving in local touches through shoji-like sliding doors and walls bedecked in textured Japanese plaster. Both rooms and suites are fitted with deep Japanese baths for postworkout soaks and cream-colored lounge nooks for quiet contemplation. For all its community-centric, sweatinducing perks, Janu Tokyo still has Aman’s go-slow DNA at its core.

LIFESTYLE CHOICES

Janu isn’t the only group to lift its wellness concept beyond the realms of massageheavy spas and tucked-away fitness centers. Here are three more hotels with fitness clubs at their core:

Equinox Hotel, New York City

With the launch of its first hotel, high-end gym Equinox turned its fitness concept into a round-the-clock experience. Guests have access to the expansive gym (with 65,500 square feet of pools, cryotherapy booths, a SoulCycle studio and more), while rooms feature high-tech touches to improve sleep.

Sindhorn Kempinski, Bangkok

In the green heart of Bangkok’s ritzy Phloen Chit district, Sindhorn Kempinski’s wellness center is more than a spa: spanning three floors and 32,000 square feet, it offers guests and club members access to everything from flotation tanks to Rasul mud rooms, Thai boxing, Pilates and expert-guided fitness consultations.

SIRO One Za’abeel, Dubai

A protein-shake bar in the lobby and suites furnished with cardio machines set the tone for invigorating stays at this high-octane hotel in Dubai’s landmark One Za’abeel tower. On-site nutritionists design bespoke meal plans, while the extensive spa offers IV drips and dryneedling treatments for post-workout recovery.

Janu Tokyo, Japan

Your travel advisor can secure Internova Select perks, including a $100 hotel credit and daily breakfast for two. $$-$$$

Recovery Room: A suite bedroom at Janu Tokyo.

Brad A. Johnson (Kempinski)

Sindhorn Kempinski Bangkok

A taste of paradise with Princess

Name a better pairing than food and travel — we’ll wait. Princess presents a variety of cuisine to satisfy every palate, al ong w ith o nboard c ulinary an d w ine p rograms that tel l a story wi th every bite and sip.

CASUAL DINING

Savor fish and chips at O’Malley’s Irish Pub. Share a hand-tossed pie at Alfredo’s Pizzeria. Indulge in seafood favorites at Crab Shack. Whatever you’re craving, Princess has you covered, from sushi to barbecue to gelato.

EXPERIENTIAL DINING

Get lost in rich culinary storytelling with 360: An Extraordinary Experience or the intimate Chef’s Table and Chef’s Table Lumiere. Disappear into a Victorian-themed world of mixology and magic at Spellbound by Magic Castle. Experience the imaginative artist-inspired dining journey at Love by Britto.

SPECIALTY DINING

Relish premium steaks at Crown Grill.SM Delight in handmade pasta at Sabatini’s SM Italian Trattoria. Sample bisques, bakes and broils at The Catch by Rudi. Enjoy the perfect steak at Butcher’s Block by Dario. And taste the work of a master of modern Japanese cuisine at Makoto Ocean.

WINE AND DINE

Exclusive to Princess guests: Expand your palate with Princess’ partnerships with two iconic Napa Valley-based wineries, Silverado Vineyards and Caymus Vineyards. Enjoy transcendent meals perfectly paired with wine for the ultimate dining experiences. Food and wine go together like ... Princess and wine: they’ve even earned an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine Award of Excellence.¹

Rocky Island Highs

WRITING: ADAM ERACE

DISCOVERING MALVASIA WINES, NEGRONI FLOATS, PINK BALEARIC PRAWNS AND THE OCCASIONAL ROADBLOCK IN TRAMUNTANA.

Mallorca, Spain

Much of Spain invites impatient travelers to slow down. On the rugged, windswept northern coast of Mallorca, the ascendant culinary scene in the Tramuntana mountain range compels it.

What makes this rocky island region so visually dramatic — insistent figs rooting cockeyed in cliffs, mountains plunging into a coastline that’s honeycombed with pirate coves, oak forests and peaks once cold enough for the island’s 19th-century aristocrats to store ice for cocktail parties — is also why cyclists love it. I unwittingly arrive just in time for the annual Mallorca 312, a race that closes many of the island’s roads and temporarily strands me in the sandstone-hued village of Valldemossa.

There are worse places for an unexpected layover. I use it to my advantage, passing the time tasting luscious extra-virgin olive oils from Son Moragues (sonmoragues. com), whose tiny farm boutique curates a mix of earthy housewares and fancy candles alongside its oils (olive and essential, the latter distilled from the shop's own herbs). I savor Gelati Mossa’s vivid strawberry and subtle lavender scoops (@gelatimossa) in the shadow of Chopin’s former home (now a museum), an annex of the old Carthusian monastery. Behind its erstwhile bell tower, which is crusted with iridescent tiles, I find a hedge maze and wander it with visiting families and a couple neighborhood hounds. A typical, unhurried Spanish afternoon.

Cliff Notes: Son Moragues’ storefront, and its Mallorcan sausage, olives and wine. (Opposite) Son Bunyola, a Virgin Limited Edition hotel on the island of Mallorca.

“In a glitzier locale, Patiki might come off as unbearably hip, but here in the slightly scruffy harbor of Port de Sóller, it feels friendly and utterly unpretentious."

My ride arrives eventually and drives me east along mountain-clinging curves with the Balearic Sea flashing sapphire a thousand feet below. Destination: the old literary hideout of Deià. A five-minute stroll from the center of town, up the narrow main road lined with swimsuit boutiques and real-estate brokers, brings me to De Moniö ( @de_monio2020 ), a cave-like ceramics gallery that’s wellknown among the international potterati. (It should also be well-known for the refreshing gazpacho and tender banana bread in the attached café.)

“I came here for a photo shoot and fell in love instantly,” artist-owner Jaime Arias tells me. He and his partner, Jorge Morales, “found an amazing property and bought it right away,” trading their go-go-go life bouncing between Madrid, Milan and Sweden for this mountaintop creatives' cloister.

“Tramuntana has a calm to it that other areas of the island do not,” Anna Karlen tells me the next day, echoing Arias on the region’s appeal. For the last two years, Karlen, an ex-Londoner, has run the beachfront Patiki ( patikibeach.com ), a comparatively sceney, whiteon-white bistro with endless rosé that might have come off as unbearably hip in a glitzier locale like Ibiza or Mykonos, but here in the slightly scruffy harbor of Port de Sóller, it feels friendly and utterly unpretentious. The menu dovetails with that vibe, resplendent with Spanish seafood (bite-size pink prawns tossed with lactofermented chimichurri, whole grilled bass overstretching its plate) and heaving with vegetables grown by Karlen and her husband, Pablo, on their nearby farm: first-of-theseason snow peas, assertive salad greens, tender pumpkin that gets candied for dessert and plated with mint labneh and ginger confit.

Market Days: The wares at De Moniö in Deià.

Creating a Scene: (From top) Flowers and vegetables in the window at Patiki, and the restaurant’s prawns in lacto-fermented chimichurri.

After a long lunch at Patiki, I hop the gleaming, historic wooden tram that links the port with the village of Sóller proper, a wildly picturesque knot of lanes surrounding an impressive cathedral. I find a street that leads me to Mister McCoy’s Island Ices ( @island_ices_mallorca ), an icecream parlor and natural wine bar I learned about from the crew at Mercat ( @mercattramuntana ), a sweet, citronawninged café-grocery in another town, Puigpunyent. This new-school culinary community in Tramuntana is small, and everyone seems to know everyone.

“I usually do the negroni float with my Sóller orange sorbet,” owner Rory McCoy explains, then proceeds to apologize for why he is out of it — as if I’d heard a word

after “negroni float.” He swaps in his luminous, brownsugar-sweetened Sóller lemon, and I carry the bittersweet crimson concoction up the antique spiral staircase to spoon/sip among the petunias and rattan in the cozy, abuela-core sunroom.

Brought by Arabs in the eighth century, citrus thrives around Sóller, which goes by the nickname Valley of the Oranges. But Mallorca's dry climate is less forgiving to other crops. Water is precious on this sunbaked island, forcing roots to burrow deeper, drawing up flavorenhancing minerals. Perhaps this is why every tomato, zucchini and pomegranate that manages to survive tastes like a stronger, more intense version of itself.

The Real Deal: (From left) Rory McCoy enjoying ice cream at Mister McCoy’s; the owner’s special negroni float.

Water is a concern for humans, too, which is why the island has a one-out, one-in policy for new hotels. Opportunities to build new ones don’t come along very often. Richard Branson started untangling the red tape nearly a decade ago in order to turn his Tramuntanaadjacent, 16th-century limestone fortress into Son Bunyola Hotel , a Virgin Limited Edition resort, which opened last year. That, of course, gave Branson’s team plenty of time to dial in the design details. Ephemeral fabrics — linen drapes, spearmint-striped awnings, white arabesque pool umbrellas — rustle and whisper across a stoic backdrop of timber, iron and stone. The same anchor materials form a neutral palette upon which the hotel’s art collection whirls in a carnival of ebullient colors. One piece, by artist Helena Falk, is a poppy painted map of Mallorca detailing its most prized products: watermelons, olive oil, peppers, oranges, wine, seafood, tomatoes.

I find all of these muses on display at the resort’s signature restaurant Sa Terrassa , where nightly dinners unfold with buttered king scallops on the half shell, giant red prawns surfing atop tagliatelle, and rice pudding accessorized with hibiscus syrup and pistachio dukkah. Jaime Pérez de Rada, the affable wine director, introduces juicy gorgollassa, late-harvest malvasia (like liquid honeysuckle) and other offbeat Mallorcan wines that never reach export. Next spring, Son Bunyola’s own malvasia bottlings will be added to the mix, born from the estate’s rejuvenated ancestral vineyard that dates to 1229.

INSIDER INSIGHT:

“To really get a taste of the island, ask for a spritz with Canonita de Mallorca during aperitivo hour. Sampling the local almonds, olives and olive oil is a must. And for the perfect vitamin-C infusion on a hot day, just peel and eat a Mallorcan orange — you won’t regret it.”

—Emily Prentiss, travel advisor

The Hideaway: (Clockwise from top left) Sa Tafona cafe terrace at Son Bunyola, lobster linguine at Son Bunyola’s Sa Terrassa restaurant and the resort’s Tafona Suite No. 32.

As easy as it would be to hole up and cocoon at Son Bunyola, it's essential to get out and explore the island. Every day brings another unexpected adventure. Up the road in Banyalbufar village, the hilltop restaurant Son Tomàs ( @rest.sontomas ) offers views of infinity, most days. The owners also maintain one of Tramuntana’s most intriguing wine cellars. The Picornell-Funke family has operated this Michelin-recommended spot since 1983.

My server pours a stony, lemony malvasia grown “right over there,” he says, pointing out the window toward mountain terraces marching down to the sea. Sometime between the homey, sobrassada-stewed beans and the briny, paella-adjacent arroz negro, the view begins to shift. The vines fade into shadows as storm clouds amass overhead, turning the sky as charcoal-black as the rice. Rain rips the clouds open, like candy pouring from piñatas.

“Another bottle?” the server asks. The plants drink deeply. Why not join them?

Stay:

Virgin Limited Edition’s 27-room Son Bunyola Hotel occupies a 16th-century manor house atop a 680-acre hilltop estate. Your advisor can secure Internova Select perks, including a $100 resort credit and daily breakfast for two. $$

Scenic Lookout: (Clockwise from top left) A table at Son Bunyola’s Sa Terrassa, the rooftop terrace of Son Bunyola’s Tower Suite No. 19 and wine tasting with the hotel’s sommelier.

when a wave from a local makes you feel all warm inside.

It’s the ultimate bonding experience. You’ll connect with new friends in an intimate, yacht-like atmosphere with intuitive, personalized service that feels like you’re among family. Sailing to the Arctic, Antarctica, the South Pacific and all seven continents, our new ultraluxury, purpose-built Expedition ships are designed for exceptional creature comfort while guiding guests to rare wildlife encounters and destinations few will ever see.

Contact a travel advisor for more information.

Fringe Benefits: Power walking through the streets of Midtown, Regitze wears a Tory Burch coat and Wolford turtleneck with an Altuzarra handbag.

Suite CityBRIGHT LIGHTS I L G

MANHATTAN’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS ARE OFTEN HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS. HERE’S HOW TO HIT THE TOWN LIKE A LOCAL.

New York, New York

Some of the finest hotels in the world call New York City home: The St. Regis, The Plaza, The Carlyle, Four Seasons and so many other icons. Add to that cachet recent arrivals from Aman, The Ritz-Carlton, Cipriani, Corinthia and others, and visitors to the Big Apple are absolutely spoiled for choice.

The luxury-suite wars are definitely on, with options ranging from the timeless elegance of the woodburning fireplaces tended by butlers at The Lowell to the insanely opulent Vanderbilt Penthouse suite, with its sprawling terrace overlooking the city from atop the InterContinental New York Barclay. For those who prefer bold interiors, dive headfirst into maximalism at Hotel Barrière Fouquet’s or any of Kit Kemp’s whimsical wonderlands, including the new Warren Street Hotel.

But just because you’re staying in a hotel doesn’t mean you have to feel like a tourist. Manhattanites know that many of the city’s best-kept secrets are hidden inside these very walls. You’ll find some of the world’s most decorated chefs downstairs from your room. Think Alfred Portale’s triumphant comeback at The Mercer or Andrew Carmellini at The Fifth Avenue Hotel, plus John Fraser at the Wall Street Hotel and Daniel Boulud at The Beekman, and you're barely scratching the surface. And that’s to say nothing of the bars: legendary names like Bemelmans, the King Cole Bar or The Roxy, and must-see newcomers like Little Ned at The Ned NoMad.

“Just because you're staying in a hotel doesn't mean you have to feel like a tourist ."

You’ll also find most of Manhattan’s top spas inside hotels. The last few years have brought an incredible boost to the wellness scene. There’s the massive, multi-floor Aman Spa, where you can reserve a private “spa house" with a fireplace lounge, hammam, sauna, plunge pool and terrace with a soaking tub. And have you seen the newly added penthouse spa at the revitalized Hotel Chelsea, complete with a brick terrace, wooden sauna, and massive treatment rooms with outstanding views? How about the 27,000-square-foot oasis at the Equinox Hotel?

When it’s time to leave your suite, we’ve curated a list of under-the-radar restaurants, bars and quiet spaces favored by locals. But first, find a place to stay. Your travel advisor can secure Internova Curated or Select perks, including a $100 hotel credit and more, at these 52 best hotels in the city.

We’ll Take Manhattan: (Clockwise from left) Billionaires’ Row, as seen from the Pen Top bar at The Peninsula, a quiet moment at Cecconi’s inside The Ned NoMad and the indoor saltwater lap pool at the Equinox Hotel. (Opposite) At The Fifth Avenue Hotel’s Cafe Carmellini, Malik wears an Homme Plissé Issey Miyake shirt, sweater and coat, and Neil wears an Etro jacket and pants and Sandro shirt.

Brad A. Johnson (New York skyline, Cecconi’s)

FLASH REVIEW: CAFÉ CARMELLINI

“Don’t sleep on this one. Andrew Carmellini is one of New York’s most beloved chefs, and his theatrical new project might be his best yet. The French-Italian Café Carmellini at The Fifth Avenue Hotel invites lingering and flirting in its plush banquettes and a gallery of extra-private tables above. Standouts dishes for us included the brightly savory chilled heirloom tomato soup and the rich duck-filled tortellini. Our charming waiter made us laugh while always remaining professional.” —Andrew Harper

PHOTO: JOE THOMAS; ART DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH; STYLING: DAVIAN LAIN; GROOMING: CHRISTIAAN VAN BREMEN @ THE WALL GROUP; MODELING: NEIL @ MAJOR & MALICK @ SKORPION; PHOTO ASSISTANT: JULIA LE; STYLING ASSISTANT: IYANLA MOSLEY-THOMAS

DIRECTORY Hotel

upper east side

THE CARLYLE, A ROSEWOOD HOTEL

Old-world New York opulence. Recently modernized, the 192 rooms retain their historic character. Bemelmans Bar with Ludwig Bemelmans’ murals is a must — order the famed Jackie O cocktail. Martini master classes also available. $$$$

LOEWS REGENCY NEW YORK

The 379 rooms and lobby ooze art deco glamour, and the Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa can transfer some of that glow-up to you. Power breakfasts at The Regency Bar & Grill. $$

THE LOWELL

Timeless elegance across 74 rooms, some especially cozy with woodburning fireplaces. Majorelle restaurant is a Moroccan-inspired gem with lavish afternoon tea. $$$

THE MARK

Bold design at a tony address with 153 rooms. Dine at The Mark Restaurant by Jean-Georges and the new Caviar Kaspia. But first tidy up at Frédéric Fekkai’s salon. $$$$

THE SURREY, A CORINTHIA HOTEL

The long-awaited relaunch of an icon this fall unveils 100 low-key-luxe rooms designed by Martin Brudnizki, including four signature suites inspired by Central Park’s bridges. Miami’s Casa Tua runs the swanky F&B (and a private-members’ club). $$$$

Brad A. Johnson and Joe Thomas

Eat, Drink, Go! (Top) Chef Alfred Portale’s Sartiano’s at The Mercer in Soho and (above) Café Carmellini at The Fifth Avenue Hotel in NoMad.

AMAN NEW YORK

It was one of the world’s most anticipated openings when it debuted in 2022. Aman’s 83 ultraexclusive rooms are among the city’s largest, providing zen oases in the historic Crown Building on Fifth Avenue. Relax in the three-story, 25,000-square-foot spa, or request a picnic basket and be the envy of everyone in Central Park. Jazz club. Unparalleled sushi. $$$$

ANDAZ 5TH AVENUE

Coveted loft-style suites with 12-foot ceilings account for 54 of the 184 rooms. Lobby library showcases New York Public Library-curated books. Daily complimentary happy hour. $$$

BACCARAT HOTEL NEW YORK

Red roses and glittering crystals fill this discreet Midtown refuge. Legendary tea in the Grand Salon, tranquility in Spa de La Mer and 114 effortlessly elegant rooms. $$$

THE CHATWAL, NEW YORK

The 76 rooms inside Stanford White’s art deco landmark celebrate travel’s golden age. Ten suites feature massive terraces. The renowned Lambs Club restaurant remains a draw. $$

THE LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL MANHATTAN MIDTOWN

Formerly a Conrad, this recent, 562-room addition to Marriott’s portfolio boasts premier suites with skyscraping views and an impressive art collection that brings the gallery to you. $$ midtown

Crown Jewel: In a premier suite at Aman New York, Regitze wears an Altuzarra hat, blazer, trousers and shoes with Falke socks.

PHOTO: SU M Ü STECAPLIO Ğ LU; ART DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH; STYLING: FIONA GREEN; HAIR STYLING: TAKUYA YAMAGUCHI @ THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP ARTIST: ALEX LEVY ; MODELING: REGITZE @ WOMEN MGMT; STYLING ASSISTANT: ISABELLA PESINA

INSIDER INSIGHT: PERFECT DAY IN THE CITY

“I love visiting Dumbo and the Time Out Market in Brooklyn (via the ferry) and biking around Governors Island with views of the Manhattan skyline.”

—Chintan Dadhich, GM, Conrad New York Downtown

“Walking The High Line from Hudson Yards to the Meatpacking District during sunset. Continue south on Bleecker Street, and stop by Magnolia Bakery for banana pudding.”

—Bastian Germer, GM, The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad

“Start with a slice of Grimaldi’s pizza under the Brooklyn Bridge, followed by the most delicious scoop from Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory . Then watch the sunset from Brooklyn Bridge Park.”

—Ash Bhasin, GM, Pendry Manhattan West

“New York’s nightlife is undergoing a revival. For an epic night out, don't miss Silencio , a new nightclub just off Columbus Circle.”

—Marcel Thoma, GM, Mandarin Oriental, New York

Lookout Point: The terrace at Casa Cipriani offers views of the Brooklyn Bridge and Governors Island.

EQUINOX HOTEL HUDSON YARDS

Fitness comes first with a 65,500-squarefoot spa and gym, but the 212 rooms are equally high-minded, with a penthouse suite engineered to optimize sleep. $$$

INTERCONTINENTAL NEW YORK BARCLAY

Renovations brought contemporary design to the hotel’s 704 rooms, while the grand lobby honors its 1926 origins. The opulent Vanderbilt Penthouse suite, with stunning views, hosts a glamping experience for families on the terrace. $$

JW MARRIOTT ESSEX HOUSE

The park-facing art deco legend offers 528 updated rooms, including a premium Central Park suite collection. Chef Michael Mina leads the recently opened Bourbon Steak New York. David Bowie used to live here. $$

THE KNICKERBOCKER

The bar at this 330-room grand dame is where the dry martini was born. Visiting for New Year’s Eve? The St. Cloud rooftop boasts unbeatable views of the Times Square ball drop. $$

THE LANGHAM NEW YORK

Fifth Avenue luxury across 234 tasteful rooms with striking skyline views, some facing the Empire State Building. Excellent Italian at Ai Fiori. Classy Champagne bar inside The Langham Club. $$$

LOTTE NEW YORK PALACE

Synonymous with New York glamour and splendor. The courtyard is iconic. Of the 909 rooms, the suites in The Towers are the most exclusive. $$

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, NEW YORK

Wow-worthy views and the latest technology grace all 244 rooms, soon to be updated yet again. An expansive spa and gorgeous pool provide an exquisite respite. $$$$

PARK HYATT NEW YORK

WHERE TO EAT: LOCALS’ FAVORITES

Get off the familiar tourist track and eat like a local instead.

Aldama

Brooklyn’s answer to Cosme’s overhyped offerings in Manhattan. Authentic, delicious, modern Mexican. aldamarestaurantbk.com

Barbetta

Best-kept secret for Italian “grandma’s gourmet.” barbettarestaurant.com

Cucina Alba

Coastal Italian under The High Line. Beats most of the better-known places. cucinaalba.com

Ernesto’s

Under-the-radar Basque on the Lower East Side. No tourists. Potato chips with Ibérico ham. Fab cocktails. ernestosnyc.com

Frevo

Clandestine, 16-seat, Michelin-starred restaurant hidden behind a Greenwich Village art gallery. frevonyc.com

Laser Wolf

Williamsburg rooftop Mid-Eastern skewer spot with breathtaking skyline views. laserwolfbrooklyn.com

Nakaji

Ten-seat Edomae-style omakase concealed in a narrow arcade off Canal Street. nakajinyc.com

Penny

Raw seafood and natural wine bar tucked above its bigger sister, Claud. penny-nyc.com

Restaurant YUU

Theatrical, 16-course, FrenchJapanese tasting menus in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint. Lots of uni and caviar. yuunewyork.com

Scarr’s

LES pizza joint where celebs mingle with local revelers. The ideal New York slice. scarrspizza.com

Semma

The best Southern Indian food in Manhattan. Super-stylish décor and clientele. semma.nyc

The Grill

The ultimate special-occasion splurge for jaded New Yorkers. Always chic. thegrillnewyork.com

Soon to join the existing 210 rooms of this contemporary hotel is a new three-bedroom Manhattan Suite on the top floor. Also on deck: a new spa with city views. Meanwhile, lots of perks and amenities for families and pets. Pickleball paddles for the park. Stunning saltwater pool. Do not miss the Avenue Gallery on the ground level. $$$$ REPORTING: DEVORAH

Holiday in the City: Thanksgiving feast at Park Hyatt.

See and be Scene: On Aman New York’s Arva terrace, Regitze wears a Jil Sander dress and Lili Claspe bracelet.

INSIDER INSIGHT: SHOPPING SECRETS

“The Museum of Sex gift shop. It's like John Waters meets retail therapy.”

—Ansell Hawkins, managing director, The Mercer

“ The Seaport has some of the best hyperlocal shops, from vintage thrift to curated bookshops like McNally Jackson Books and pop-ups like SRGN — the ultimate for sneaker heads.”

—David Sandler, GM, The Wall Street Hotel

PARK LANE NEW YORK

A recent $80-million renovation and new design by Yabu Pushelberg brought this surprisingly affordable, park-adjacent tower with 610 rooms back into the style conversation. Cool rooftop bar, too. $$

PENDRY MANHATTAN WEST

The undulating exterior and 164 residentialstyle rooms are a beacon on Manhattan’s West Side. Fun rooftop bar. Acclaimed Mediterranean restaurant. A partnership with Cadillac allows guests to borrow the latest cars during their stay. $$$

THE PENINSULA NEW YORK

East meets West at this 233-room haven, just off a major renovation that included the relaunch of the Pen Top bar on the roof — wow, the view of Billionaires' Row. Magnificent spa. Sublime afternoon tea. $$$$

THE PIERRE, A TAJ HOTEL

Versailles-inspired 1930s building with soaring rotundas, marble floors and 189 sumptuous rooms, right by Central Park. Don’t miss the no-cover jazz night on Thursdays. $$$

THE PLAZA

Big Apple legend remains a most prominent address by the park, with 282 lavish rooms, plush Guerlain Spa, Palm Court afternoon tea and the timeless Champagne Bar. $$$$

THE RITZ-CARLTON NEW YORK, CENTRAL PARK

Many of the 253 rooms have panoramic views, while five signature suites offer townhousestyle living. Home to the only La Prairie Spa in the city, recently refreshed. $$$$

THE ST. REGIS NEW YORK

A legendary address for 120 years has begun to emerge from extensive renovations that include all 239 rooms and retooled signature suites (with luxury-brand partnerships) and even the famed King Cole Bar. $$$$

THOMPSON CENTRAL PARK

Home to two beloved restaurants: the upscale Indian Accent and a recently expanded Burger Joint. The 587 rooms are large and refined after the 2021 renovation that transformed it into a Thompson. The Upper Stories are the sweetest. $$

THE TIMES SQUARE EDITION

Clean white lines in 452 rooms deliver Ian Schrager coolness. Restaurants by chef John Fraser focus on seasonality, while Paradise Club brings sizzling nightlife. $$

THE WHITBY HOTEL

A petite Midtown anomaly filled with London style-maker Kit Kemp’s whimsical designs in 86 distinct rooms. Also has a 130-seat cinema, chic restaurant and bar and a guests-only drawing room. $$$$

Heightened Awareness: (Above) Royal Suite at The St. Regis New York and (left) the view from the Pen Top bar on the roof of The Peninsula.

THE FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL

Maximalist design and boldly colored furnishings bring new life to this historic mansion-turned-hotel with 153 rooms. On the ground floor is superstar chef Andrew Carmellini’s eponymous restaurant. The intimate Portrait Bar brings speakeasy vibes. $$$

GANSEVOORT MEATPACKING

New York-inspired design graces 186 streamlined rooms, some with terraces. Vibrant restaurants, bars, a members' club and always-happening rooftop pool, plus one of the best modern-art collections of any hotel in the city. $$

THE HOTEL CHELSEA

It took 10 years and $100 million to renovate and reopen this storied hotel. It now has 160 cozy rooms, two popular dining venues and a serene rooftop spa. Don’t miss the sangria at El Quijote bar. $$

THE NED NOMAD

Anyone can stay in this beautiful hotel’s 167 highstyle rooms, which lean heavily into the vintage tower's art deco bona fides. And while the seeand-be-seen Italian spot Cecconi’s and the ohso-glam Little Ned bar are also open to all, please note: Hotel guests are not guaranteed entrance to the attached private-members' club and rooftop lounge. $$

THE NEW YORK EDITION

More Schrager coolness inside the landmark Met Life clock-tower building, with 271 refined rooms and residential-style suites, plus the acclaimed, Brit-inspired Clocktower restaurant and a secluded spa and gym. $$$

THE RITZ-CARLTON NEW YORK, NOMAD

Still-new-and-glittering skyscraper with 250 sophisticated rooms, some with amazing bathtub views. Chef José Andrés operates three bars and restaurants, including the rooftop Nubeluz and, downstairs, the ultra-high-end Bazaar. The Club Lounge offers refuge from the bustle. Stellar marble-clad spa. $$$$

VIRGIN HOTELS NEW YORK CITY

Lively outdoor pool deck and lounge. Colorful lobby and restaurants. The 460 rooms are modern with Virgin-red accents. Sir Richard’s Flat penthouse features personal ephemera and panoramic views. $$

Johnson

Everything Martini at The Ned’s Little Ned bar.

Featured SELECT & CURATED Hotels & Resorts by Internova

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel

ST. MORITZ, SWITZERLAND

Enjoy the largest outdoor pool among St. Moritz’s hotels, sustainably heated with lake water. This winter, 25 new rooms and suites debut, featuring Loro Piana materials, B&B Italia furniture and French balconies with Alpine views—all connected to the main building via underground passage.

SIRO One Za’abeel

DUBAI, UAE

Experience unparalleled synergy at Dubai’s premier business and lifestyle hotel. Featuring a state-of-theart gym, sleep-optimized rooms, and AC Milan-inspired wellness programs, SIRO One Za’abeel offers the ideal environment to achieve peak performance and recovery in the heart of the city.

The Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel

NEW YORK, US

This fall, experience updated elegance in 70 exquisite rooms and suites, including four signature designs inspired by Central Park’s iconic bridges. Savor the sophisticated allure of Casa Tua, the renowned Italian restaurant and members’ club making its Upper East Side debut.

Malibu Beach Inn

CALIFORNIA, US

Experience an oceanside haven where the waters of the Pacific Ocean meet a strip of California coastline nicknamed Billionaire’s Beach. This stunning boutique hotel features 47 well-appointed guestrooms, breathtaking panoramas and refined design inspired by Malibu’s effortless ambiance.

soho/east village/lower east side

11 HOWARD

Scandi minimalism across 207 intimate rooms. Art by Alexander Calder and others. Modern French restaurant Le Coucou, all-day La Rubia and a chic bar, the blond. $$

CROSBY STREET HOTEL

The doyenne of colorful British design’s first Manhattan address remains a downtown favorite. Kit Kemp’s 86 playful, pattern-filled rooms always impress, as does the alwaysbubbly Crosby Bar and terrace restaurant. Don’t miss the private sculpture garden and 99-seat screening room. $$$

THE LUDLOW

Eclectic LES hideaway with curated art and one-of-a-kind furnishings that mesh with the wood and brick building materials. There are 175 rooms; the Terrace Suites have spacious outdoor areas. $$

THE MERCER

Icon of Soho epitomizes luxury loft living with personalized service and ultimate discretion. Of the 73 rooms, the most coveted are the corner suites with fireplaces or anything on the top floor, but you really can’t go wrong here. Don’t forget to sample the in-room bottled cocktails; they’re fantastic. Renowned chef Alfred Portale recently made his triumphant return downstairs at Sartiano’s with huge dry-aged steaks and brilliant pizzas. $$

The Campbell Bar

Hidden gem with coffered ceilings and stone fireplace inside Grand Central Terminal. thecampbellnyc.com

Le Dive

The epicenter of the LES’s afternoon sipping scene. ledivenyc.com

Maison Premiere

The Williamsburg bar that helped launch the craft-cocktail trend and bring absinthe back. maisonpremiere.com

NYC Ferry

Better, easier (and way more local) than renting a yacht. Excellent craft beer from the snack bar. ferry.nyc

Ophelia

Gorgeous art deco lounge atop a residential building at the East River’s edge. Spectacular views. opheliany.com

Skin Contact

Natural-wine jackpot in the LES. Combine with nearby Gem Wine and The Ten Bells for an awesome wine crawl. skincontact.nyc

REPORTING: DEVORAH LEV-TOV, NICHOLAS GILL, TEDDY MINFORD AND LINA ZELDOVICH

Happy-Hour Bliss: Le Dive is the starting point of a locals’ favorite bar crawl on the Lower East Side.

Lofty Expectations : The penthouse suite at The Ludlow.

Featured SELECT & CURATED Hotels & Resorts by Internova

One&Only Kéa Island

KÉA ISLAND, GREECE

Revel in the untouched beauty of the Cyclades at One&Only Kéa Island. Hidden away in a secluded, remote setting, this sanctuary offers a pure and revitalizing escape, where the natural wonders of the Aegean Sea surround a protected, untamed paradise of exceptional serenity and luxury.

Groupe Barrière

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Groupe Barrière, an icon in modern luxury, honors timeless French sophistication across its hotels and casinos. Highlights include redesigned dining at Le Normandy Deauville, Le Carl Gustaf—a St. Barth’s hidden gem, the new Loulou at Les Neiges Courchevel, and Le Majestic Cannes, soon unveiling a chic beach club.

The Mercer

NEW YORK, US

Step into a historic Soho landmark reimagined as a luxury hotel. Loft-style rooms with high ceilings and fireplaces offer modern comfort and a taste of downtown living. A serene courtyard provides an urban retreat. Enjoy the vibrant city and impeccable service at one of Soho’s chicest addresses.

The St. Regis Kanai Resort

RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO

The oceanfront resort welcomes EDITION to the unique Kanai community, with a modern luxury concept where sophistication meets extraordinary lifestyle. Perched above mangroves, the 2,500 sqm Sky Rooftop Villa offers sprawling views, unmatched exclusivity and refined elegance.

INSIDER INSIGHT: SEEKING VEGAN NIRVANA

“The vegan food scene on the Lower East Side is on fire. Restaurants such as Ladybird , Cadence , Third Kingdom , Superiority Burger and Soda Club are making vegan exciting, sexy and, in some cases, refined and elegant.”

—Ryan Fender, GM, Andaz 5th Avenue

SERENITY NOW!

Yes, it exists in the city, and here’s where to find it, with a dash of culture on top.

Ford Foundation Center for Social Justice

New Yorkers are often surprised to learn about the super-quiet gallery and tranquil courtyard garden at this open-to-the-public landmark in Midtown East. fordfoundation.org

General Grant National Memorial Swoon-inducing views of the Hudson River from Grant’s final resting place in Morningside Heights. Peaceful and pensive. nps.gov/gegr

Green-Wood Cemetery

South Brooklyn burial grounds that double as an arboretum, with more than 7,000 trees and hardly any (living) people. green-wood.com

The Met Cloisters

A monastery-like sanctuary filled with medieval treasures in Fort Tryon Park in the far reaches of Upper Manhattan. metmuseum.org

The Morgan Library & Museum

The opulent, Gilded Age former library of J.P. Morgan is impressively whisper-quiet most days. themorgan.org

REPORTING: DEVORAH LEV-TOV, NICHOLAS GILL, TEDDY MINFORD AND LINA ZELDOVICH

MODERNHAUS SOHO

Rooftop pool bar Jimmy has drawn crowds for years. Plant-filled restaurant Twenty Three Grand is inside a greenhouse with retractable roof. The 114 design-forward rooms and public spaces are filled with modern art. $$

NINE ORCHARD

Housed in a former bank, this hotel’s 113 rooms are steeped in history and character. Some suites have gorgeous brick terraces. Dine and drink at the white-hot Corner Bar and Swan Room. $$

PUBLIC HOTEL

Ian Schrager’s downtown wonderland is sleek yet playful. The 367 rooms are oases from the vibrant F&B venues, which include a rooftop bar and the well-regarded Latin American eatery, aptly named Popular. $$

SOHO GRAND

After a gut renovation a few years ago, this downtown mainstay remains rock-and-roll cool with superior service. Soho Diner, Club Room, and Grand Bar & Salon provide New Yorkers and visitors with hangouts for every occasion. $$

Brad A. Johnson (Morgan Library)

World Kitchen : (From top) Chef José Andrés’ Zaytinya at The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad and a quiet spot inside the Morgan Library & Museum.

Flex and the City: One of the recently unveiled signature suites at Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown.

THE BEEKMAN, A THOMPSON HOTEL

This 287-room hotel is home to two star-chef restaurants: Daniel Boulud’s Le Gratin and Tom Colicchio’s Temple Court. Everyone loves the towering atrium lobby, of course. $$

CASA CIPRIANI NEW YORK

Waterfront luxury at the lower tip of Manhattan.

Intimate, discreet and ultraexclusive with 47 elegant rooms and a gold-toned design by Thierry Despont. Multiple bars and Italian restaurant. Normally a private-members’ club, but hotel guests gain temporary access. $$$$

CONRAD NEW YORK DOWNTOWN

The 463-all-suite Conrad — with direct access to the ferries! — exudes understated luxury with contemporary lines and well-placed art. Loopy Doopy rooftop bar is a hidden gem in warmer months. Near Brookfield Place. $$

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL NEW YORK DOWNTOWN

Preeminent address with 198 spacious rooms, including a handful of recently unveiled, designforward suites. Stunning, marble-clad indoor pool and tranquil spa. CUT steakhouse by Wolfgang Puck. $$

THE GREENWICH HOTEL

Tribeca jewel co-owned by Robert De Niro with 88 timelessly stylish (and larger than average) rooms. Celebs flock to Italian favorite Locanda Verde. Shibui Spa is an ode to Japanese wellness traditions. $$$$

INSIDER INSIGHT: TOURISTY BUT REQUIRED

“The holy trinity: the Statue of Liberty , Central Park and Times Square . The statue is a profound piece of American history, and taking the ferry to Liberty Island is an adventure in itself. And the park is not just a park. It’s an oasis, perfect for a relaxing day out. And Times Square just captures the city’s hustle and bustle.”

—Laurent Ebzant, GM, Park Hyatt New York

“I love this city all year long, but New York during the holiday season is truly special — walking around with the twinkling lights and beautiful décor, especially the classic Fifth Avenue shops, but also the new Seaport in Lower Manhattan. And when that first snow happens in December, the city feels magical.”

—Thomas Carreras, GM, Four Seasons New York Downtown

“A Broadway show . Theater is synonymous with New York, and without it, the city would not be the same.”

—Marlene Poynder, managing director, The Carlyle, a Rosewood Hotel

“Everyone should walk the Brooklyn Bridge at least once.”

—Pradeep Raman, managing director, The Surrey, a Corinthia Hotel

“Few things can compare with the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade .”

—John Rieman, GM, JW Marriott Essex House New York

HOTEL BARRIÈRE FOUQUET’S NEW YORK

Art deco sophistication with 97 oh-so-Parisian rooms, plus four esteemed drinking and dining outlets, a private screening room and marble-clad spa with extensive hydrotherapy facilities. $$$

THE ROXY HOTEL

The 201-room Roxy is not just a hotel. It’s a hub of creativity where funk and fashion collide, with a popular cinema, live jazz venue, cocktail bar and coffee shop. $$

THE WALL STREET HOTEL

Pearl- and sea-inspired accents adorn the 180 rooms in this historic beaux arts building. Excellent drinks at always-buzzy Lounge on Pearl and the new Bar Tontine on the 15th floor. Don’t miss chef John Fraser’s La Marchande. $$

WARREN STREET HOTEL

Kit Kemp’s newest charmer has 69 distinctly designed rooms. All are a celebration of texture and color, and some offer spacious, landscaped terraces. The all-day restaurant features the designer’s own covetable tableware line. $$

EXPEDITIONS + INDULGENCES , BLISSFULLY COEXISTING.

At Atlas, we have set a new course for expedition cruise travel, curated for spirited explorers, led by expert guides, and enhanced by a genuine and caring crew who share a desire to connect with people, places, and our cherished natural world. From bold adventures in the Arctic and Antarctica to Cultural and Epicurean Expeditions year-round, travelers return to our luxury yachts to savor moments well-lived among new friends in a relaxed, après expedition atmosphere.

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MEDITERRANEAN / NORTHERN EUROPE / ICELAND + GREENLAND / ARCTIC

ATLAS ALWAYS INCLUDED Expedition Guides + Enriching Experiences, Cultural Immersion, Unlimited Wines + Spirits, L’OCCITANE Amenities, Gratuities and More

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO LEARN MORE

Scents and Sensibilities: Lavender and climbing magnolia at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire. (Opposite) Fresh-cut flowers from the garden in the lobby lounge.

TASTE Season to

FORTY YEARS ON, AND CENTURIES IN THE MAKING, A QUIRKY MANOR-HOUSE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT REMAIN AT THE AVANTGARDE OF FARM-TO-TABLE COOKING.

Great Milton, England

Gravel crunches beneath the tires of a vintage Rolls-Royce as it glides up the driveway of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, the 15th-century manor house turned 32-room hotel and flagship restaurant of the renowned French-chef-turned-Englishman Raymond Blanc. Moments later, a British couple in their golden years strolls into the lounge and settles onto a fluffy, featherstuffed sofa within earshot of where I’m enjoying a glass of Lillet. They’ve just driven in from London, I hear, and they are ready for a drink after the nearly two-hour journey to the Oxfordshire countryside. The lovebirds’ frisky flirtations belie a lifetime of wrinkles and the lack of urgency in their gaits.

“Can you believe the lavender?” she whispers, pointing out the window to where a riot of purple bushes threatens to overtake the sidewalk, and then across the room to a vase packed with a chaotic spray of freshly cut flowers. “Doesn’t it smell lovely?”

A server approaches: “Is this your first time joining us?”

“Oh, no,” the woman says, suppressing a giggle. “I was here 29 years ago, on this exact day, but with a different husband. A lot has changed, I suppose.”

“I suppose a lot has changed here, as well,” the server replies. “May I bring Champagne?”

“Veuve Clicquot,” the new husband chimes in.

Although they call it “the lounge,” the pair of drawing rooms on the main floor of the manor house is much more than that. It’s a bar, of course, and the hotel’s de facto lobby. It is the social epicenter: a place of transition in which to reacclimate after a frenzied drive, a meeting point before donning aprons for a cooking class. And when you schedule a tour of the orchards, the gardeners will collect you from here. Most importantly, however, the lounge serves as an extension of Blanc’s renowned restaurant, which shares its name with the hotel. They are one and the same — and when dining here, you will be expected in the lounge no less than 30 minutes, preferably 45, before your actual seating. This isn’t the city. No one goes straight to a table, even if you’re running 30 minutes late. Slow down. Take a breath. “What would you like to drink?”

I’m told it happens occasionally. Still, I cannot fathom anyone visiting the manor overnight without intending to dine. Even so, staying here involves much more than simply eating and drinking. It’s about what Blanc calls “living in the seasons.” He wants everyone to properly commune with nature, to immerse themselves in time and place — even if that means, at the very least, taking a pre- or post-dinner stroll around the lushly landscaped gardens and ancient ponds. During my summer visit, lavender and magnolia blossoms perfume every inch of the estate. Come fall, the air inside and out should be redolent of pear blossoms, mulled wine, baked apples and, before long, the comforting incense of woodburning fireplaces.

Garden to Plate: (Clockwise from above) Amusebouche at dinner in the dining room; the courtyard of the manor’s former stables, now a complex of luxury suites; and a chef picking chives in the garden.

“Dinner

proves sublime. Breakfast, too. But the biggest surprise comes at lunch — an extemporaneous riff on room service."

This Old House: Table set for dinner in the Michelin two-starred dining room.

“When in Oxfordshire, you must make time to visit Oxford proper and the Bodleian Library, Christ Church College and University Parks. Consider Arbequina for Spanish tapas or Pompette for FrenchMediterranean cuisine. And I always recommend combining a visit to Le Manoir with a stay at their sister hotel in London, The Cadogan.”

—Duncan Greenfield-Turk, travel advisor

Delivery Instructions:

While the restaurant and lounge constitute the beating heart of this hotel, the gardens are its lifeblood. Since opening in 1984, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons has defined the modern garden-to-plate movement. Blanc grew up in France, but he has lived and worked in Britain for most of his adult life. As a chef, he is entirely self-taught — driven, he says, by childhood memories of his mother’s home cooking and the ease and joy with which she bounced between her kitchen and the family garden. The estate occupies 27 acres, much of it farmed and harvested year-round — 250 different organic vegetables and herbs, 70 varieties of apples, 40 types of pears, most with their own micro seasons — and all of it destined for the table (plus the local community).

“What are you picking?” I ask a young chef crouched over lowslung weeds in the herb garden. Before she can reply, I smell the answer. “Lemon verbena,” she confirms, “for tonight’s sorbet.”

Restaurant reservations open to the general public three

months in advance, but hotel guests are always guaranteed a table for dinner. Don’t stress it. Just secure the room first. Each of the hotel’s uniquely named and designed rooms is bookable by its specific name rather than a vague category. Certain spaces, like the gorgeous Blanc de Blanc or L’Orangerie terrace suites, get gobbled up months in advance. My old-fashioned metal key opens the door to the Lemongrass suite, perched atop what used to be the horse stables, with vaulted ceilings and window boxes. Beautiful morning light bounces off rich green silks, Oriental patterns and Buddhist iconography, inspired by Blanc’s travels to Southeast Asia. I would have preferred something more British, or even French — time and place, after all — but options were limited on the last-minute, very rigid dates of my journey. And when a fog rolls in and a chill settles across the estate, I relish the exclusivity of having the only bathroom in the hotel with its own steam room, not to mention a fish tank — “Oh, hey, Wanda!” — built into the wall between the bedroom and bathroom.

Whether in-suite, on the terrace or beyond, room service plays an integral role in the experience.

Hot Takes from chef Raymond Blanc:

A favorite childhood taste memory?

“Vegetable and chervil soup! We serve a version at Le Manoir — a small tribute to Maman Blanc. And I should say to Papa Blanc, too, as most of the vegetables would come from their shared garden. The success depends entirely upon the freshness and quality of the vegetables and herbs ."

If you had to pick just one apple?

“There are so many. Our orchard has 2,500 apple and pear trees. However, I do favor the Reinette Grise du Canada. It makes a fantastic tarte Maman Blanc — actually the very best. It also makes a rich and complex-flavored puree, with no sugar required. We serve this for breakfast in autumn ."

The hotel you keep returning to?

“Hotel Cipriani in Venice. It's an incredible location, and I always receive such a warm welcome from the team."

As expected, dinner in the restaurant proves sublime: eight courses paired with wines, mostly French, including a stunning Chassagne-Montrachet. Breakfast, too, makes me smile, especially the still-warm-from-the-oven breads, locally sourced charcuterie and a do-it-yourself bloody mary bar. But what surprises me most is lunch. The restaurant closes between breakfast and dinner, so the midday meal must be taken elsewhere. It’s an extemporaneous riff on room service that you can enjoy anywhere you desire: in the cozy lounge, the privacy of your suite, on the shaded terrace overlooking the croquet lawn or tucked into one of the many romantic nooks scattered around the property. Wherever you decide — a different spot each day, I suggest — lunch will be delivered with elaborate pomp and ceremony by an immaculately groomed server in a long white Frenchman’s apron with the manners of an English butler. And it will have you instantly checking your calendar to figure out how quickly you might be able to return for another, slightly longer visit. Asparagus and morel season in April? Peach season in July? There’s no way I’m waiting 29 years. Surely the husband and I can find an opening on the calendar sooner than that.

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel

Your travel advisor can secure Internova Select perks, including a $100 food and beverage credit in addition to complimentary daily breakfast for two.

Oxford French: (From above) Steak tartare for room service in the split-level Lemongrass suite.

THE OLTRE Q&A

LAURA CATENA with

Dr. Laura Catena is the fourth-generation vintner and managing director of Catena Zapata, one of Argentina’s oldest and most prestigious wineries. She’s also an educator, researcher and founder of the Catena Institute of Wine, which is dedicated to preserving and elevating malbec. But the doctor title comes from her 25-year career as an emergency-room physician — a job from which she only recently retired so that she can fully devote her energies to winemaking and terroir research.

Her family’s winery was recently named best in the world by the World’s Best Vineyards rankings and the No. 2 most-admired wine brand by Drinks International. Aside from evangelizing her own winery, Catena’s current obsessions include preserving the genetic diversity in Argentina’s older vineyards and, most passionately, convincing the wine world at large to utilize lighterweight bottles, for the environment. Both are critical missions, she says. “I think of myself as an ongoing pioneer. If I just say I am a ‘pioneer,’ it sounds like I am done. And I am never finished.”

How many passports do you have?

Three: Argentina, Italy, USA.

Do you drink airplane wine?

Only if it's prosecco.

What’s something in Argentina that everyone should experience?

Sunday asado. It’s a cultural tradition, our weekly barbecue. It lasts for hours. The adults drink wine. The children play outdoors. People say that Argentines are particularly happy people, and I think the asado is a big contributor to that.

Hotel spa or a night on the town? Night on the town.

Favorite souvenir?

From Italy, a bottle of “Acqua di Positano,” a lemon-scented eau de toilette that I proceeded to wear for the next 10 years — because it makes me feel like I am one with the Mediterranean Sea.

Worst travel misfortune?

We had our backpack stolen at Ipanema beach in Rio di Janeiro. It had a camera with film that held photos of our family and kids with Francis Ford Coppola, whom we met when he was in Argentina directing a movie. We lost all those photos .

What trait do you admire most in a travel companion?

Fast-paced and flexible. I like to go to as many museums and parks as possible. If there is a line, just move to the next location. I don’t like waiting.

Your last road trip?

Los Angeles to San Francisco last spring. We took Highway 1, hugging the ocean, and I was reminded that we are so lucky to live between Argentina and California.

Most embarrassing travel moment?

On a flight with my three kids. My daughter, who was two, started throwing food over the seat, but I don’t think she realized she was throwing the food at somebody. I was asleep. The man being pelted with food woke me up and asked if I could make it stop. He was very nice, for which I was grateful.

Any vacation regrets?

Not taking more.

WRITING: KATIE KELLY BELL

Terroir Watch List: Laura Catena in her vineyard in Mendoza.

Cuisine

THAT GOES BEYOND THE PLATE™

Holland America is rede ning culinary excellence through our Global Fresh Fish Program and Destination Dining™. With fresh sh and ingredients sourced directly from local farms, elds, and sheries, our cuisine helps tell the story of each destination through its unique avors.

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PLUS: CRUISING THE MOSEL, TASTING MALLORCA, DIVING INTO JANU AND MORE