ÓL• TRE
THE CITY&COUNTRY ISSUE
Welcome to the newest volume of OLTRE, our exclusive quarterly magazine filled with inspiration and ideas for your next trip — and beyond.
This issue is brimming with inspiration to help answer the question “where shall we go”. From the Italian countryside to a family tour in India, our après-ski playlist from St. Moritz, mountain dining in Colorado and a train ride though Southeast Asia – let the planning begin!
Gabriel Tesserolli (Amsterdam); Lily Rose (Tuscany)
AT A GLANCE
Winter 2025
STRANGERS ON A TRAIN
Singapore
After a four-year hiatus and a glamorous refurbishment, Southeast Asia’s most famous train is back on the tracks.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Los Angeles, California
An artist finds peace and tranquility in the chaotic urban infrastructure that gets us from here to there.
St. Moritz, Switzerland
Everybody to the dance floor! OLTRE’S Volume 8 playlist channels the pop-flecked EDM energy of the Swiss Alps’ OG nightclub.
Town or Country?
Whether you’re packing for a city escapade or a countryside escape, we’ve got you covered.
Amsterdam, Netherlands
The reigning grand dame of Old World luxury on the Amstel riverbank since 1896, this historic hotel is also the city’s coolest trendsetter.
The next It neighborhoods in our favorite cities. Plus: cruise news, lounge access and more.
San Antonio, Kyoto, Paris...
Join Us, Stay Awhile
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO PLAN YOUR NEXT VACATION
Tuscany, Piedmont, Umbria and beyond
Italy’s hilltop borghi, ancient castles and historic winery estates are calling. The 27 best countryside retreats tend to book up months in advance, so get on it.
It’s time for horse races, truffle hunts, spectacular blooms and more.
A Journey Through History’s Wonders
The world was shaped by great kingdoms and dynasties whose monuments come to life on this journey. Travel in a small group on a customized private jet equipped with first-class lie-flat seats, experiencing ancient settings from extraordinary new angles on a journey that combines luxury, authenticity and expertise as only A&K can.
ANCIENT KINGDOMS & DYNASTIES: A JOURNEY BY PRIVATE JET
October 4–28, 2025 | 25 days Limited to 48 guests
Contact your travel advisor to reserve your place and experience a journey like no other, with the company that wrote the rules for over-the-top adventure.
Arctic Circle
While everyone else races to Antarctica, we’re on a slow boat in the Arctic. And we brought the huskies.
SCOUTED
OBSESSION
Arrive in style this season with the latest must-have looks from Hermès and AMI Paris.
New York, New York
An adventure in Istanbul resulted in a shoe revival that snowballed into a global sensation.
MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR
Jaipur, India
When the plan falls apart, the adventure continues. Breathe. Let go. Enjoy the ride.
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Telluride, Colorado
If you haven’t scored a table for dinner already, pity. This is the hottest après-ski reservation in America this winter.
Celebrate life’s adventures
Escape to alluring destinations for unique personal journeys. Lose yourself in the intriguing design, bespoke service, and rich experiences that make every LXR stay legendary.
ARIZONA BILTMORE, LXR HOTELS & RESORTS
take your pick
Studies show that the anticipation of a trip is as much a part of the travel experience as the trip itself — humans feel happier when we have something to look forward to. The promise of possibility is heady, and the start of the new year has us looking ahead with optimism: What’s on the horizon? What shall we do? And of course, where shall we go?
This “City and Country” issue of OLTRE brims with inspiration to help you fill in the blanks — and the articles cover so much ground (and water) that you’ll be spoiled for choice. There’s our destination guide on the Italian countryside, a fantastical family tour in India, mountain dining in Colorado and OLTRE’s après-ski playlist from St. Moritz. Belmond’s revamped Eastern & Oriental Express takes us on a moody train ride through Southeast Asia (they had me at “lemongrass-spiked negroni”). We travel by boat, but make it fancy: an upscale ice-breaking expedition in the Arctic, a posh sailing on Cunard’s newest ship and a calendar of the year’s most anticipated christenings and itineraries. On a fashionable note, we’ve scouted the hippest Turkish-inspired shoes, designer coats for the season and a men’s packing list (Hermès, anyone?).
Your travel advisor can help fill your calendar with a multitude of trips, big or small, for a year’s worth of anticipation highs. Let the planning begin!
Senior Vice President, Content Elaine Srnka
THIS OR THAT, TRAVEL EDITION
What’s your preference profile?
Checked Bag or Carry-On
Window or Aisle
Movie or Book
Playlist or Podcast
City or Country
Beach or Mountain
Ocean or Pool
Art or History
Hot Spots or Hidden Gems
Sightseeing or Shopping
DECISIONS, DECISIONS
We toyed with two covers and the picture with the pooches ultimately won. Which would you have chosen? Let us know at editors@oltremag.com .
For reservations, please contact your travel advisor. A warm welcome and cool spirit define The Maybourne Beverly Hills. Blending our signature service style with the energy of Beverly Hills, expect culinary creativity and contemporary comfort, all wrapped up in a landmark location. The Maybourne Beverly Hills is California, through and through.
Senior Vice President, Content
Elaine Srnka
Vice President, Publishing
Laura Sport
Editorial Director
Brad A. Johnson
De sign
Director
Devin Duckworth
Copy Editor
Jennifer Weston
International Correspondents
Cibele Maciet (Paris), Carolyn O'Neil (Caribbean), Kathryn Romeyn (Bali), Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Laura Schooling (London), Marina Spironetti (Milan)
Contributors
Steven Biller, Carole Dixon, Eleonora Gaspari, Merle Ginsberg, Sebastian Graham, Don Nichols, Lily Rose, Sara Petrucci, Stephanie Pollak, Beanie Stolper, Gabriel Tesserolli, Simon Urwin, Oliver Webb, Deven Wilson
Advertising & Marketing
Cruises
Pam Young
Destinations
Brian Hegarty
Hotel Programs
Dennis Grunden
In-Country Partners
Haisley Smith
Partner Marketing
Stephen McGillivray
Account Management
Marshall Davenport
Melissa Dobmeier
Giselle Garvey
Sam Holloway
Catherine Johns
Ronald Laing
Pam Massey
Sinead O’Connell
Loyde Pires
Becky Serdar
Jeanne Watters
Danielle Whitmore
Advertising Consultants Lisa Calderone-Spierings lcalderone@cabanaxpr.com
Madelyn Roberts madelyn.roberts1@gmail.com
Hotel Marketing
Alexandra Rivera
Database Marketing
Jocelyn Acosta
Elizabeth Broehl
Felipe Castro
Adam Kemerer
James Nathan
Daniel Tennant
Katarzyna Turska
Direct advertising inquiries to advertising@oltremag.com
Internova Travel Group
Chief Executive Officer
J.D. O'Hara
Chief Financial Officer
Robert Klug
Chief Information Officer
Jeremy Van Kuyk
Executive Vice President, Partner Relations
Albert Herrera
Executive Vice President, Partner Relations
Peter Vlitas
Senior Vice President, Public Relations
Elizabeth Gaerlan
Internova Select and Curated Hotel & Resort Rate Key
$ = Less than $500
$$ = $500 – $1,000
$$$ = $1,000 – $1,500
$$$$ = More than $1,500
Categories reflect average midseason rate for standard room. Your travel advisor can secure complimentary Internova Select or Curated perks such as hotel credits, breakfast for two, early check-in/late checkout (based on availability) and other extras.
ON THE FRONT COVER:
Shot on location at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco in Siena, Italy. Photography by Lily Rose. Jacket and Suit by Brioni.
ON THE BACK COVER:
Shot on location at De L'Europe Amsterdam. Photography by Gabriel Tesserolli.
President, Global Travel Collection
Angie Licea
President, Nexion Travel Group
Jackie Friedman
President, Travel Leaders Group
John Lovell
OLTRE is published quarterly by Internova Travel Group, one of the largest travel services companies in the world. Internova brands represent more than 100,000 travel advisors in more than 6,000 company-owned and affiliated locations throughout the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom, with a presence in more than 80 countries. Publisher assumes no responsibility for representations or changes to travel information and pricing described herein, which are subject to change and availability, and restrictions may apply. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written consent of Publisher. Direct editorial and subscription inquiries to editors@oltremag.com and advertising requests to advertising@oltremag. com. Internova Travel Group is headquartered at 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019; Internova. com. Copyright © 2025 Internova Travel Group.
THE PINNACLE OF TASTE
Los Cabos stands unrivaled in gastronomy, with its award-winning cuisine and unforgettable culinary experiences.
Brad A. Johnson , Editorial Director (Orange County, California) ; Devin Duckworth , Design Director (Los Angeles, California); Steven Biller , Writer (Palm Springs, California); Carole Dixon , Writer (Los Angeles, California); Sebastian Marc Graham , Illustrator (Marbella, Spain); Cibele Maciet , Correspondent (Paris, France); Don Nichols , Reporter (Dallas, Texas) ; Carolyn O'Neil, Correspondent (Atlanta, Georgia) ; Kathryn Romeyn , Correspondent (Bali, Indonesia); Lily Rose , Photographer (Bali, Indonesia); Chris Schalkx , Correspondent (Bangkok, Thailand) ; Laura Schooling , Correspondent (London, England); Marina Spironetti , Correspondent (Milan, Italy); Gabriel Tesserolli , Photographer (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil); Jennifer Weston , Copy Editor (Seattle, Washington); Simon Urwin , Writer/Photographer (London, England); Oliver Webb , Photographer (London, England); Deven Wilson , Writer (Austin, Texas).
L–R:
Escape the Ordinary
WITH HOLLAND AMERICA
Head to the city or retreat to the countryside?
There’s no wrong answer when you’re cruising with Holland America. From European metropolises to ice-blue Alaska glaciers, experience a world of city lights and rural delights with the cruise line trusted for over 150 years. Contact
Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.
STAY INSPIRED
Each stay is an immersive cultural encounter. Take in the bold locally influenced design and the rich customs of the communities just outside the front door.
SPEAK TO YOUR TRAVEL AGENT DISCOVER CONRAD
ESCAPE ROUTES
CHRISTINE RASMUSSEN’S QUIET COMPOSITIONS COULD CHANGE HOW WE SEE THE WORLD.
Los Angeles, California
“ Matter & Spirit ," 2024 oil on canvas, 36x24 in.
In her “Beautiful Solitude" series of urban freeways — minus the cacophony of modern life — Christine Rasmussen explores absence, stillness and uncertainty. Her minimal yet profound paintings transform the lines and tones of the everyday into extraordinary spaces of contemplation. Set against spacious skies, the mighty overpasses rouse our inner yearning for connection and offer a serene moment to pause, breathe and reflect. christinerasmussenart.com
“ Beautiful Solitude ," 2024 oil on canvas, 40x34 in.
“ Respite ," 2024 oil on canvas, 40x34 in.
“ Ascend," 2024 oil on canvas, 56x44 in.
SOUND/BAR
APRÈS-SKI SEASON IS HERE AGAIN. THAT MEANS THE EPICENTER OF OOH LA LA NIGHTLIFE IN EUROPE JUST SHIFTED TO KING’S SOCIAL HOUSE. WHAT, CAN’T MAKE IT? YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE VIBE.
St. Moritz, Switzerland
Badrutt’s Palace
In December, Badrutt’s unveiled the new six-story, 25-room Serlas Wing — connected by an underground pedestrian tunnel — raising its total key count to 180. Your travel advisor can secure Internova Select perks, including a $100 F&B credit, plus daily breakfast for two. $$$$
“7 Seconds” by Joezi, Coco and Pape Diouf
“Tormenta” by Marasi
“Famax” by Raffa Guido
“Buya” by Black Coffee and Toshi
“Bangalora” by Pablo Fierro
“Emowe” by Notre Dame
“You Got the Love” by Rockin Moroccin
“Cold Heart” by Elton John with Dua Lipa, PNAU Remix
“Feel My Needs” by WEISS, Purple Disco Machine Remix
“The Motto” by Tiësto and Ava Max
“Love Tonight” by Shouse, Robin Schulz Remix
“Tell It To My Heart” by MEDUZA and Hozier
“Relax My Eyes” by SVNTOS, Remix
“Halele” by &friends, Samuel Cosmic and Oluwadamvic, Alex Wann Remix
“Opera” by Marasi
“Only You” by AVÖ, Syon and QT-HIGH
“Paris” by &ME, Rampa, Adam Port, Keinemusik and Starving Yet Full, Chloé Caillet Remix
“Sala Papa Ye” by Soulroots and Soul Star
“Horizon Red” by Made by Pete and Zoe Kypri
“Papi (Bhabi)” by Eden Shalev
A vintage marquee illuminates the cobblestone street that runs through the heart of St. Moritz, where renowned chef Jason Atherton oversees the Palace's underground kitchen. After the ski boots come off and the fuzzy shearlings go on, this becomes the hottest scene in the Alps. Spirits run high as Michael “Mr. Mike" Hall and a roster of other DJs from around the world infuse Switzerland's oldest club with pop-flecked house, EDM and everybody-to-the-dance-floor grooves.
WRITING: BRAD A. JOHNSON
Badrutt’s
VINTAGES & VOYAGES
Indulge in a luxurious river cruise through Bordeaux with Avalon Waterways—where world-class wines, charming villages, and breathtaking landscapes await.
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL TO PLAN YOUR NEXT VACATION.
Melbourne, Australia
January 6 – 26
WHAT’S ON
SAVE THE DATE. THESE ARE THE MUST-ATTEND OPENINGS, EXHIBITS, GALAS AND RACES ON OUR AGENDA THIS SEASON.
Paris, France
January 24 – July 21
Vienna, Austria
January 23
82nd Vienna Philharmonic Ball at the
London, England
February 6 – May 11
“La Mode au Louvre: Fashion Meets Art,” the Louvre’s first-ever fashion exhibition
New York, New York
February 13
Dublin, Ireland
March 14 – 17
Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria
February 4 – 16
FIS Alpine World Ski Championships
Boston, Massachusetts
March 30 – September 7
Musikverein
“Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits” at Museum of Fine Arts
Opening night of Redwood on Broadway at Nederlander Theatre
Rob Prezioso (Melbourne), Richard Schuster (Vienna), Erich Spiess (Saalbach-Hinterglemm), Kerry McFate (London), Little Fang (New York), Darragh Kane (Dublin)
Australian Open at Melbourne Park
Saint Patrick’s Festival
Noah Davis retrospective at Barbican Art Gallery
The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.
A safari is unlike any other experience and Micato Safaris is unlike any other company: For every safari sold, we send a child to school. Contact your travel advisor for details.
Created for FOODIES by FOODIES
Food is at the heart of everything we do. Through food and travel, we learn about the world, create connections and memories to last a lifetime. Food and travel are the ultimate connectors and a most amazing way to celebrate the world, and the people around us.
“Travel and food are the ultimate ways of bringing people together – to savor unique avors, experience di erent destinations and create shared memories.”
Oceania Cruises Culinary and Brand Ambassador
GIADA DE LAURENTIIS
HOT SHOTS
A MUSEUM, TWO LOUNGES AND A LUXE RYOKAN: NEWS FLASHES FROM AROUND THE WORLD SHOES OFF, PLEASE
Osaka, Japan — With Osaka hosting the 2025 World Expo, the city’s hotels are jockeying for attention. In August, the Four Seasons Hotel Osaka opened in the Dojima district. The brand’s fourth Japanese outpost is home to six restaurants that range from chichi Cantonese to French bistro fare and, of course, realdeal sushi. While the hotel offers 175 light-flooded rooms across a dozen floors of a modern tower, it's the 28th-floor rooms you'll want to book, especially the premier corner suites. This dedicated GENSUI floor — a ryokan within the hotel — serves up the ultimate Japanese fantasy with tatami-mat floors, sliding doors, onsen-style bathrooms and plush futon bedding. $$
TREASURE ISLAND
Valletta, Malta – The tiny island nation of Malta in October took a big leap forward, culturally, with the opening of the Malta International Contemporary Art Space. Located in the capital city of Valletta, MICAS is the country’s first museum focused on contemporary art. The 90,000-square-foot campus includes 15,000 square feet of indoor gallery space, plus outdoor sculpture gardens, a shop and a cafe — all set against the backdrop of the Ospizio, a 17th-century fortress. The current exhibition features large-scale installations by acclaimed Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. micas.art
San Francisco, California – Two new lounges just opened at the splashy new Harvey Milk Terminal 1 at San Francisco International Airport. Alaska Airlines debuted its biggest Alaska Lounge to date, which impresses with leather loungers fronting floor-to-ceiling windows, with charging outlets at nearly every seat. Meanwhile, Priority Pass members will appreciate the new Club at SFO, which features bioluminescence rooms with adjustable-color lighting to help with mood-setting — great before those transpacific overnights to Asia — as well as a cozy nook with leather seating and a fireplace.
REPORTING: DON NICHOLS AND CHRIS SCHALKX
The Club at SFO
Four Seasons Hotel Osaka
TERMINAL BLISS
MICAS
Didier Plowy (Malta), Matthew McNulty (San Francisco), Ken Seet (Osaka)
Where whimsy rules and magic awaits around ever y corner.
The Next It Neighborhoods
LOTS OF FOOD, SOME SHOPPING — HOW TO MAKE A BIG CITY MORE MANAGEABLE? FOCUS ON A SINGLE BOROUGH. THESE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE PLACES TO PLAY IN 2025.
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA – L.A. County’s ultimate beach community, Santa Monica , is having a full-blown renaissance. The opening of Regent Santa Monica Beach — along with chef Michael Mina’s Eastern-Med-themed Orla and Ayesha Curry’s Sweet July bakery — brings high glam back to the California coast. And next door, hometown chef Raphael Lunetta helms the new locals’ go-to Marelle . Plus: MUSE , just up the street, is a French jewel box. Edgemar brings modern American fare to a Frank Gehry-designed building on Main Street. Dave Beran of Pasjoli fame has opened Seline , a fine diner with a garden. And for caviar and unbelievable burgers, the Paris-themed Burgette from Sean MacDonald is an absolute must.
PARIS, FRANCE – Once the heart of Paris' textile industry and Jewish community, Sentier has transformed into a vibrant culinary hot spot. The newest Shana ( shosh-shana.com ), helmed by Israeli chef Assaf Granit, serves bold Israeli flavors, while l'Altro Frenchie (altro-frenchie.com) artfully blends French and Italian cuisines. Kitchen 32 (kitchenizakaya.com) spices things up with a modern twist on Japanese izakaya dining. Fusing rich history with innovative culinary experiences, Sentier is now the go-to destination for food lovers craving Paris' dynamic and creative dining scene.
REPORTING: CAROLE DIXON, CHRIS SCHALKX, LAURA SCHOOLING, CIBELE MACIET, MARINA SPIRONETTI, KATHRYN ROMEYN AND DEVEN WILSON
Tanveer
Badal (Santa Monica)
Regent Santa Monica Beach
Shana
Reconnect and reinvigorate your senses in places of incredible natural beauty, with meaningful experiences, empathetic hospitality, and pioneering wellness. Choose from 27 exceptional hotels and resorts around the world.
Contact your Luxury Travel Professional to learn more.
SIX SENSES LA SAGESSE | GRENADA
BANGKOK, THAILAND – When avant-garde juice bar F.V set up shop along Songwat Road, the erstwhile heart of Bangkok's spice-trading district, it kick-started a revival of this historic street wedged between the Chao Phraya River and Chinatown. More recent arrivals, such as graffiti-scribbled coffee bar Local Boys Coffee, Japanese brunch spot HUGS Songwat and handicraft hub Road of Cinnamon (which stocks textiles, jewelry and woodwork from Thailand's 77 provinces), have helped to make it one of the city's most creative corners.
TRIESTE, ITALY – When big cruise ships pushed away from Venice, many started berthing in Trieste instead. The food scene around the Historic Waterfront is on fire, thanks in large part to chefs Matteo Metullio and Davide De Pra, who recently snagged two Michelin stars for Harry’s Piccolo — this city’s biggest affirmation yet. Also, echoing its Hapsburgian past, Trieste’s one-of-a-kind coffee culture is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets: from the ornate Caffè degli Specchi to the literary Caffè San Marco and the delightful Caffè Torinese
LONDON, ENGLAND – Forget Mayfair for one minute. After last year’s arrival of Valentino ’s four-story “New Maison,” plus a three-story, artcovered Dior flagship mere months before that, Chelsea’s Sloane Square is turning heads. The neighborhood was already home to impressive boutiques from Ralph Lauren, Burberry and Louis Vuitton, not to mention Peter Jones & Partners and the always relevant Saatchi Gallery. Now venture down the pedestrian-only Pavilion Road for Ottolenghi and The Conran Shop. And come May, the entire neighborhood blooms into a riot of colors when The Royal Horticultural Society works with nearly 100 local businesses to augment the annual Chelsea Flower Show.
Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Anja Cop (Trieste), Shunrei (London)
Chelsea Flower Show
Trieste
F.V
Join us on our elegant ships for the voyage of a lifetime
BOOK ONE OF OUR EXCEPTIONAL ITINERARIES BY CONTACTING YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR. PART OF ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRAVEL GROUP.
KYOTO, JAPAN – The walkable Higashiyama ward is among the oldest and best-preserved neighborhoods in the historic center of Kyoto, with multiple UNESCO World Heritage site temples. And it’s suddenly hot again, thanks to the opening of two sumptuous, well-being-focused hotels: Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto , with its own Noh stage, and Six Senses Kyoto , with its Nine Tails speakeasy, which serves exclusively Japanese spirits, plus Sushi Oga Higashiyama (a hot new offshoot of the original Oga in Osaka) for decadent omakase. Nearby is the new high-end teahouse Pouyuenji , designed by Tony Chi, plus the just-opened Sushi Azabu Higashiyama for the city’s famous Edomae sushi.
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS – The rusted-to-radiant Pearl neighborhood along the city’s riverfront keeps evolving. Although it’s been awhile since Hotel Emma first captured our attention inside the city’s famous former brewery, the allure of this once desolate area now seems unstoppable. James Beard finalists Best Quality Daughter and Bakery Lorraine dramatically shifted the city’s food scene. And now the latest attraction, Pullman Market , adds a crowning touch to Pearl’s revitalization. With more than 150 Texas-based producers supplying Pullman's grocery market and five restaurants by Emmer & Rye Hospitality, Pearl has become an ambassador of taste, not just for San Antonio, but for all of Texas.
Nine Tails
Pearl
Luxury Redefined.
Luxury travel is more than just a destination — it’s an experience. With Luxe by Funjet Vacations®, you’re not just staying somewhere, you’re living the extraordinary.
From world-renowned resorts to hidden gems, our global portfolio caters to your every desire, whether it’s wellness, romance, or adventure. Indulge in Luxe Amenities designed to elevate every moment of your journey.
To ensure your next getaway is nothing short of perfect, contact your travel advisor to craft the experience you deserve.
Luxe by Funjet Vacations – where your journey becomes exceptional.
NEW YEAR’S EVOLUTIONS
MARK YOUR CALENDARS: WE’RE ABOUT TO BE INUNDATED WITH NEW SHIPS, MAIDEN PORTS OF CALL AND SWEET RENOVATIONS.
READY TO SHIP IN 2025
The year ahead promises an exciting lineup of christenings and itineraries, not to mention new restaurants, suites and more. Here’s a quick timeline of 2025’s hottest launches:
JUNE – Abercrombie & Kent will debut an 18-passenger riverboat, Pure Amazon , with daily excursions into the Peruvian rainforest. The staff-to-guest ratio exceeds 1:1.
JULY – Oceania ’s Allura , the new 1,200-passenger, 800crew sister of Vista , will sail its inaugural season in the Mediterranean, then Canada and New England.
JULY – Viking's Vesta will sail its inaugural season in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe, with 998 guests, 500 crew.
JULY – The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection ’s third ship, Luminara , will debut in the Med with 452 passengers and 374 crew — while also unveiling two new suite categories.
SEPTEMBER – Virgin Voyages ’ 2,770-passenger, 1,150-crew Brilliant Lady will sail its first season out of Miami with three new ports for the brand: New York, Los Angeles and Seattle.
NOVEMBER – Celebrity Cruises ’ Xcel sets sail from Portugal with the line’s first overnights in Madeira. Expect accommodations for around 3,000 guests.
DECEMBER – When Windstar ’s 224-passenger, 139-crew Star Seeker launches in the Caribbean, it’ll also introduce a new category of infinity suites with floor-to-ceiling windows.
DECEMBER – Aqua Expeditions ’ yet-to-be-named sixth ship will ply the waters off of East Africa, visiting biodiversity hot spots like Aldabra and Pemba. Cabin count still under wraps.
WRITING: DON NICHOLS
7 QUESTIONS FOR ANNA NASH
One of Aman Resorts' top executives, Anna Nash, recently traded hotels for cruise ships. She's now the president of Explora Journeys . We caught up with her to see what’s up.
Why the switch?
Explora is a trailblazer in luxury ocean travel. The opportunity to help with the expansion excited me.
What changes can we expect?
It’s less about change and more about tweaks as customers’ needs, desires and trends evolve. But creating exclusive routes and itineraries will be important.
Your first-ever cruise?
With my husband, in the Baltics, 13 years ago. That approach into Stockholm through the archipelago’s hundreds of pristine islands felt almost surreal. Standing on deck in the cool morning air, watching the city emerge — that was one of those moments you want to hold onto.
One thing you always pack for a cruise?
A cashmere shawl... I get cold in air conditioning. My gym kit, too: my trainers and gym attire. It’s a great motivator to burn some calories.
Cocktail of choice on Explora?
The spicy margarita at the Lobby Bar.
Pool or hot tub?
Pool — or seawater whenever possible. I grew up in a little U.K. village upriver from Dartmouth, and I crossed that river every day for school. I learned to sail at a young age, too.
For a two-week cruise: checked bags or carry-on? Carry-on. I can do three weeks at a push.
Easy Glider: A&K’s Pure Amazon
Anna Nash
Refined Island Living at The Brando
Indulge in serene exclusivity at The Brando, a secluded island retreat where multi-bedroom villas serve as the perfect sanctuary for families to commemorate life’s most cherished milestones.
Nestled in an unspoiled Polynesian paradise, each villa offers an unparalleled atmosphere of tranquility and luxury.
Your experience is elevated with VIP transfers, round-trip flights, and a gracious welcome of gourmet canapés, ensuring every moment is infused with elegance and comfort.
Speak to your Travel Advisor for more information
BEAUTY QUEEN
FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 15 YEARS, CUNARD HAS LAUNCHED A NEW OCEAN LINER. HERE ARE FOUR KEY THINGS EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW ABOUT QUEEN ANNE .
Southampton, England
WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: BRAD A. JOHNSON
Red, White and Royal Black: Queen Anne docked in Flåm, Norway.
WHERE THE SHADOWS TELL TIME
When you vacation at Sandals ® Resorts, you can do as much, or as little, as you’d like. Relax on calm shores, share laughter over local meals, and embark on adventures. From dips in the bioluminescent Blue Lagoon in Jamaica to dives in the azure water of Curaçao — there’s magic in every moment waiting to be uncovered.
People call it paradise, we call it home.
CON TACT A TR AVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE INFORM ATION
1. This is Cunard’s biggest ship.
She’s different from all the others — not just because Queen Anne carries a whopping 2,996 passengers (300 more than Queen Mary 2 ). Rather, Cunard traded its familiar art deco interiors for a more thoroughly modern aesthetic. This is most noticeable in the Queens Room, the two-story ballroom and epicenter of social life on every Cunard ship, where the dance floor shrank and the seating got cozier. Also new: a totally revamped spa (fantastic thermal room), an archery range (reserve well in advance!) and a retractable roof over the The Pavilion pool. While I find it all quite beautiful, a longtime Cunard devotee told me, “Our kids will love it. But my husband and I left our hearts on Victoria.” Fair enough.
2. Guests are sorted into social classes.
In keeping with Cunard’s very British tradition, Queen Anne sorts passengers into a social hierarchy based on cabin classes — which, in turn, dictates dining-room assignments. The Queens Grill suites (highest caste) are huge and lovely. The Britannia rooms (lowest) are nicely appointed but tiny. The Grills (Cunard-speak for guests in the top-tier cabins) also cut the line at embarkation and disembarkation and gain early access to excursion bookings — significant perks for a ship with nearly 3,000 passengers.
Moving Forward: (Above) The elegant Sir Samuel’s steakhouse and (below) the captain’s view of Queen Anne from the bridge.
Just Imagine…
A winter wonderland nestled amid frost-dusted mountains. A resort brimming with extraordinary adventures, from outdoor thrills to cozy delights, world-class entertainment, an award-winning spa, and over-the-top celebrations. A luxurious retreat where expert butlers cater to your every whim. Discover a world of possibilities at Nemacolin.
3. Regardless of status, you will eat very well.
The poshest among us dine at Queens Grill, a gorgeous, hushed and intimate restaurant that wouldn’t look out of place in a Mayfair hotel. Servers deftly fillet Dover sole and Atlantic turbot tableside. Duck à l’orange gets flambéed. The next rung of privilege dines at Princess Grill — slightly less formal but still ritzy. These two restaurants share a private bar and lounge that most guests will never see.
The masses take their meals at either Britannia Club (chic and restaurant-like) or the sprawling, two-story Britannia Restaurant, the beating heart of the ship. On formal nights, even guests at this most common stratum are treated to the same outstanding beef Wellington that’s served to the Grills.
Of the alternative dining venues, Sir Samuel's (steak) and Aji Wa (Japanese) are both new for Cunard — and very good. But don't underestimate Aranya, an Indian bolt-hole that serves meticulous four-course tasting menus.
There is also, of course, the all-day buffet, which they no longer refer to as a “buffet,” but rather the Artisans' Foodhall. Bring stretchy pants and be on the lookout for the lunch when they serve leg of lamb — you don’t want to miss that.
4. The best-kept secret on board is...
Hardly anyone seems to have discovered the diminutive Sky Bar on deck 14. It takes some effort to find this all-access alfresco charmer. Accessible only via the forwardmost elevators, it’s not on any of the ship’s well-trodden paths. Merely eight barstools and a handful of half-moon divans make this the quietest (even on sea days) and most intimate cocktail bar on the ship — and the views from this perch are unbeatable.
Details:
Queen Anne kicks off its maiden world cruise and first transatlantic crossing in January, sailing from Hamburg to New York, then to Panama, San Francisco, Sydney, Hong Kong, Cape Town and back in time for spring and summer in Northern Europe and Scandinavia. Rates from about $800. Your travel advisor can create a detailed itinerary, including pre- and post-cruise hotels and experiences.
Hidden Treasure: (From top) Beef Wellington at Queens Grill and the intimate Sky Bar on deck 14.
UNWIND, EXPLORE, INDULGE
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Contact your travel advisor to learn about exclusive benefits.
Ovation of the Seas ® — Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Spy Spyvs
TWO PARISIAN BRANDS FACE OFF WITH THE ULTIMATE COVER-UPS
Paris, France
The Details
This coat features domed metal snap buttons with AMI Alexandre Mattiussi engraving and comes equipped with a removable belt, diagonal pockets with fake flaps, and snap tabs at the cuffs.
The lace-up boots are made from vegetable-tanned, textured leather with tonal eyelets, Ami de Coeur logo on the outsole and striped 3.5-inch AMI signature heel.
The Look: AMI Paris
Phoebe wears an oversized belted coat in a wool/cotton mix ($2,035) paired with pointed toe lace-up boots in mustard ($1,685).
Accessories: small gold double link stud earrings ($94) and triple ring set ($385) from Tilly Sveaas.
Ben wears an outdoor leather jacket in metal gray ($20,800) over a Detail H turtleneck sweater in navy ($1,225) paired with Saint Germain cut-out pants in anthracite ($880) and Jason derby shoes in black leather with gray rubber soles ($1,350). The Look: Hermès
The Details
Hermès’ turtleneck sweater is made from 100 percent virgin wool with rib-trim cuffs and collar. The jacket is made from basalt calfskin leather in a short, parkastyle fit with a belted waist, button front and silver zipper closure on the pockets.
The R.M.S Weekender bag in écru/noir ($9,700) is constructed from H Viking canvas and taurillon regate leather, with zipper and tab closures.
HAIR: CHLOE FREIDA; MAKEUP: MAI SAITO; PHOTO ASSISTANTS: BENEDICT MOORE AND CASSIAN GRAY; FASHION
ASSISTANT: KATE SILVA; MODELING: PHOEBE @ THE HIVE AND BEN @ SUPA
This or That, Gentlemen
Country Escape
Hermès Haut à courroies to-go calfskin bag ($16,300) with (clockwise from top left) Jacques Marie Mage Challenger sunglasses in black fade ($870), HORACE Mattifying face moisturizer SPF 30 ($24), Stone Island wool/cashmere jacket in military green ($1,535), Métier travel organizer in canvas ($590), 100mL Frequent Flyer bag set ($200), Johnstons of Elgin textured crewneck sweater in charcoal ($1,400) Perfumer H Saddle eau de parfum ($190), Mulberry corduroy baseball cap ($180) Applied Art Forms FU3-5 leather key strap in camello ($77), Hermès Equestre card set ($175), Aspinal of London golf ball holder in navy pebble ($120)
Globe-Trotter Centenary Check-in (4-wheel) in black ($3,095) with (upper, clockwise from top left) Tekla Poplin pants in hopper stripes ($205), Mulberry dominoes in leather case ($735) , Hermès R.M.S address tag ($640) , Métier toiletry bag in signature canvas light ($490) , Bottega Veneta Soft Aviator sunglasses in green recycled acetate ($430) , Begg x Co Varsity cashmere cardigan in mazarine/admiral ($2,300) , OUAI Dean Street cleanser ($28) , Berluti straight denim jeans ($1,120) (Lower, clockwise from top left) Tekla hand towel in sienna stripes ($44) Bottega Veneta Colpo di Sole eau de parfum in raintree ($454) Aspinal of London passport cover in racing green pebble ($115) , Master & Dynamic MH40 wireless headphones in silver metal/brown leather ($480) , Applied Art Forms CM1-5 Modular flight jacket ($1520), Paul Smith Garth boots in black leather ($875) , Johnstons of Elgin color block cashmere scarf in dark navy and olive ($500)
LEATHER
Turkish Delights: Handmade Sabah slip-ons and slides. (Opposite) Sabah founder/CEO Mickey Ashmore.
LATHE AND
HOW AN ADVENTURE IN ISTANBUL RESULTED IN A SHOE REVIVAL THAT SNOWBALLED INTO A GLOBAL, VIRAL SENSATION.
New York, New York
WRITING: MERLE GINSBERG
Mickey Ashmore, founder and CEO of the New Yorkbased shoe brand Sabah, always had his feet planted in two disparate worlds: the bottom-line-tangible world of business, finance and entrepreneurship, and the thrilling, far more romantic realm of travel, inspired by his nomadic exploration of foreign cultures.
That combo proved to be the magic formula for the 37-year-old merchant. It came together almost alchemically. Ashmore has become Insta-famous as “the Sabah Dealer.” Sabahs are a hybrid of traditional Turkish shoes known as yemeni or çank, which have been worn for seven centuries. But the ancient style had rarely been worn in modern times — until Ashmore revised and revived it into a more practical hybrid. Starting in New York in 2013, he built the brand step by small step, from an entrepreneurial experiment into a multimillion-dollar business with seven stores around the world. Ashmore and company produce several iterations, including the original Sabah (Turkish for “morning”), a flat leather moccasin made exclusively by hand and stitched with replaceable rubber soles. Babbas are backless Sabah mules — with or without colorful shearling interiors (in tones like papaya and hydrangea). There’s also a kids’ Sabah, and a chukka boot is in production, as are collabs with other designers. “We now have 70 employees,” he notes. “It started with three or four people in the workshop. We sold shoes out of my one-bedroom the first few years. It was pretty cool.” It started back then with “Sabah Sundays” for friends — brunch at his place, with a shoe-shopping chaser.
“I was always entrepreneurial, even as a kid,” Ashmore says. “I had little side hustles in high school.”
“Sabah owners tend to be like-minded: singular, their own person. Which means, in my world, just cool.”
After centuries, the original sabah had become little more than a Turkish tourist souvenir — something out of an Aladdin tale, with cliché curled up toe. On his departure from a long stint in Istanbul, Ashmore was gifted a pair of originals by a Turkish girlfriend. He promptly donned the shoes all over Manhattan, on foreign jaunts, even at a big Turkish wedding, paired with a tux. “They’re so comfortable, I even moonwalked,” he laughs. “At least, I was trying to.” The constant feedback? “Those are cool shoes, man. What are they?”
Seeking a new pair, Ashmore tracked down the only man who still stitches the original pattern: Orhan Cakiroglu, a fifth-generation Turkish cobbler from a 170-year-old shoemaking dynasty. Ashmore had a custom request: Lose the kitschy curled toe and make the sole rubber for better durability. Friends and strangers took more notice. After that, he gambled, asking Cakiroglu for 200 pairs, throwing the dice on a novel business venture. Next thing Ashmore knew, his East Village apartment was filled with shoes.
Slight of Hands: (Above and below) Making Sabahs by hand and (left) Sabahs in the wild.
Wander Europe’s wonders
Find what you love with Princess
Whatever you’re craving, Europe’s got it. Feel the thrill of Scandinavia’s majestic fjords, marvel at Reykjavik’s geysers, climb Sicily’s fiery volcanoes or hop from one sun-kissed Greek island to the next. While on board, savor award-winning dishes crafted to impress and unwind in staterooms as charming as Europe itself. With Princess, we set the scene (and the mood), and Europe is a love affair waiting to happen.
“As time went on, we upped the craftsmanship, producing our own leathers in multiple hues. We improved the body with an Italian lathe. The insole is water buffalo, indigenous to Turkey.”
Women lean toward the brighter colors, while men tend to buy in a tighter range of neutral or dark shades, he says, but “Deepak Chopra came into the New York store asking for red.” In September, Ashmore did a collab with menswear designer Todd Snyder, creating special Sabahs for Snyder’s upcoming spring/summer collection.
“Look around in any airport in Europe or Asia, and you’re bound to spot a Sabah,” Ashmore quips. “They don’t look like anything else out there. It’s always a unique character. Sabah owners tend to be like-minded: singular, their own person. Which means, in my world, just cool.”
Details:
Simple leather Sabahs start around $200, with more elaborate editions priced closer to $365. sabah.am
Eclectic Slides: (Clockwise from above) A dozen pairs of Shearling Babas, Speckled Babas and the New York boutique.
BREAKING THE ICE
ON THE EDGE OF CIVILIZATION, DOGSLEDDING AND GLACIER TREKKING CULMINATE IN CAVIAR AND PRESTIGE CUV É ES.
WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY:
SIMON URWIN
Arctic Circle
“The Arctic is the perfect place for Champagne,” says sommelier Amaëlle Fontaine as she refills my flute with Dom Pérignon. “The air is dry. The ice glitters beautifully in the sunlight. It calls for something equally crisp, elegant and sparkling.”
I sip my bubbly in the ship’s stylish eighth-floor lounge, watching through the panoramic windows as slicks of ice grow ever-thicker in the chop, the sky streaked with soft bands of black and gunmetal-gray like a Rothko, the portent of a coming snowstorm.
Suddenly, there is a boom and gentle shudder as we hit a great bank of sea ice, formed when the seawater temperature drops below 28 F. This frozen world covers 6 million square miles of the Arctic at its peak in spring. Yet, we power through the immense natural barrier with ease, the ice fracturing like delicate porcelain under our polar-class hull, super-strengthened to allow Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot safe passage through a startling world of white that’s otherwise inaccessible to other ships.
Our vessel is named in honor of explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot, the first Frenchman to reach East Greenland in 1925. But while Monsieur Charcot shivered in furs and survived on rations of seal blubber during his grueling expeditions, our ship is, in stark contrast, a cocoon of Gallic extravagance: 123 all-balcony staterooms and suites (some with hot tubs and butler service), indoor and outdoor pools, heated decks, haute cuisine designed by star chef Alain Ducasse and a wine list that includes an $8,500 Montrachet and a $25,000 Romanée-Conti, if we so desire.
(Opposite) Ice shards in the wake of
. (Above) Sila restaurant and (below) daily canapés.
After three indulgent days crossing the Denmark Strait from Reykjavik, Iceland, we eventually reach our first berth off Greenland’s eastern coast in Scoresby Sound, the largest fjord system in the world. Surrounded by ice that's 5 feet thick, we disembark and skitter on dog sleds toward Ittoqqortoormiit, one of the country’s remotest settlements. Under radiant, vacation-blue skies, the village (population 365), appears as quiet as a church, but the ship’s Inuit guide, Jaakusaaq Søerensen, tells me it is, in fact, bustling with nature spirits.
“They are all around us: in the clouds, the rocks, the snow,” he says. “There is balance in the world until they are disturbed; then, they may take their revenge on us.”
He goes on to recount the story of the sea goddess Immap Ukua, who, when angered, turns her hair into nets that trap marine animals, depriving humans of food. “It teaches us that nature is precious, and we should always show her respect and humility.”
The next morning, it is the weather spirits who seem disgruntled. A powerful storm stirs at the North Pole, where 60-knot winds raise the hackles of the sea and send dangerous floes in our direction. “Even in summer, the elements decide where we can go,” says expedition leader Katia Nicolet. “Arctic exploration requires patience and flexibility — and often demands last-minute changes.”
So, we veer south, with regular helicopter sorties guiding our fjord-hop along the majestic Blosseville Coast, a 200-mile stretch of soaring basalt cliffs formed from lava flows more than 60 million years ago. Here, we spend a week snowshoeing, skiing, kayaking and polar-plunging our way through the pristine wilderness, reveling in the capriciousness of light, ice and tide at these high latitudes, ever-vigilant for any signs of wildlife.
Dog Days: (Clockwise from top) Houses in Ittoqqortoormiit, the living room of a duplex suite on Le Commandant Charcot, and dogsledding on the ice sheet. (Opposite) The morning view from bed.
“It teaches us that nature is precious, and we should always show her respect and humility.”
One afternoon, great curtains of snow sweep in on the whiplash of Arctic air, engulfing the ship and dimming the sun like a fire turned to embers. Through swirling flurries, we are rewarded with the sighting of a mother polar bear and her two cubs a mere 20 feet from the starboard side. It brings a pulse of excitement to the chest when they pause to return our silent, curious stares. Søerensen tells me that the bears are out searching for their favorite meal of ringed and bearded seals.
“The cubs learn from their mother how to hunt by breaking into seal pup dens or stalking their breathing holes,” he says. “Less than 2 percent of hunts are successful, though, and they’ll wander 5,000 miles a year in search of food.”
Where the Wild Things Are: Polar bears in their natural Arctic habitat.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“The first of its kind, this hybrid-powered icebreaker’s technology promotes sustainability. And with two scientific research labs on board, it’s one of the only expedition ships focused on exploration as well as luxury. It's perfect for travelers who are true explorers, not just tourists.”
—Pamela Lane, travel advisor
We go on to spot 30 more of these majestic predators on the 15-day voyage, but few at such close quarters — a sobering reminder that their numbers are dwindling and that current climate trends pose a threat to their survival as their habitat rapidly shrinks. Søerensen tells me this is one reason why it’s important for travelers to come see the Arctic’s fragile beauty for themselves.
“You need to taste the salt air, feel the cold and witness how wildlife makes a home in such spectacular but hostile terrain,” he says. “Then, if you come to love the ice as deeply as we Greenlanders do, you too will want to protect it. When humans take action together, all kinds of incredible things are possible.”
Details:
Ponant’s icebreaker cruises to the Arctic on Le Commandant Charcot start at around $21,000 for a 10-day expedition (Owner's Suite from about $74,000) between March and September. Your travel advisor can plan a detailed itinerary with pre- and post-cruise hotels and experiences.
sauna on Le Commandant Charcot.
Thesunsetlookedlike somethingoutofamovie...
Our voyages give you stories worth writing home about — from Roman nights to dreamy mornings on the Amalfi Coast.
Plus, on our exclusively adult, award-winning cruises, luxury is always included — meaning you won’t pay a penny more for onboard dining, entertainment, non-alcoholic bevs, WiFi, fitness classes, or gratuities.
Contact your Travel Advisor today.
MagicalMysteryTour A
Chaos Theory: Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal and (opposite) daily traffic on the city’s streets.
AN ABERCROMBIE & KENT TOUR THROUGH RAJASTHAN GOES OFF-SCRIPT AND PERFECTLY CAPTURES THE FORMERLY ROYAL REGION’S SWIRL OF CHAOS AND GRANDEUR.
Jaipur, India
WRITING: KATHRYN ROMEYN
ILLUSTRATIONS: SEBASTIAN GRAHAM
It’s loud. Rock-show loud. But India’s urban ruckus has no traditional chords, no lead singer. The instruments are all manner of motorized and nonmotorized transportation known to man. It’s Vegas’ 360-degree Sphere without the technology or choreographed visuals — an enigmatic thrill a minute.
I’m riding in a pink electric rickshaw through the thronged midday streets of Jaipur’s Old Town, which seems to have changed little since its 1720s heyday. Ferried by our ever-smiling driver, Renu Sharma, I'm met with a cacophony of beeps, honks and screeches, metal on metal, hums and hollers. Scents and smells enter and leave my nostrils faster than they can be identified. A kaleidoscope of textures, saturations and emotions whizzes by. The signature terra-cotta pink of Rajasthan’s capital is a rose-colored filter atop it all, splashed most brilliantly across the masonry trompe l’oeil facade of the endlessly photographed Hawa Mahal and infinite flower petal arches in one of India’s oldest planned cities.
Our first stop had been in Mumbai, where it became immediately clear that India’s hospitality rates among the world’s most heartfelt. I was initially startled by the excessive display of pink lilies, floral garlands, stuffed animals, Champagne and a bindi ritual that awaited us at The Oberoi Mumbai, thinking we’d interrupted some über-important VIP’s arrival. Turns out, my family and I were the royalty they were expecting.
I can’t remember another time when my senses have been assaulted so. I also couldn’t be happier amid this magical mess of humanity. This wasn’t the original plan that Abercrombie & Kent had so carefully crafted. We were meant to be hearing stories right now of bygone Roman aqueducts, step wells and reservoirs while touring the Rajasthani desert with our erudite, mustachioed guide, Devendra Singh. Mother Nature had other plans. She sent a deluge of atypical rains, flooding much of Eastern Rajasthan and, ironically, kiboshing our Nahargarh Water Walk. So we’re adapting on the fly, and we’re loving it.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“We work closely with A&K’s team on the ground to create custom trips from beginning to end. And if it’s a first time to India, A&K is the perfect partner because they hold our clients’ hands all the way. Just be mindful of what you eat. Do not drink the water, and no ice. “Delhi Belly” is real!”
—Gene Lashley, travel advisor
Hidden Tiger, Crouching Ladies: An imaginary Bengal and the pool at Raffles Jaipur. (Opposite) Tourists at Amber Fort.
The overquoted line often attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson resonates here: “It’s not the destination, it’s the journey.” Many of my most beloved experiences have occurred when I’ve been knocked off script. Another comes when, in what I'm told is an unprecedented move, Ranthambore National Park, one of the country’s best Bengal tiger reserves, is closed — and our private gamespotting safari scrapped — last-minute. I’ve ached to see the big cats (although many tourists in the reserve never actually spot one). But we ultimately do have a humorous wildlife encounter as we watch a band of rhesus macaques take a cheeky swim in our hotel pool.
We embark on bucolic, enlightening road trips between Jaipur and rural Rajasthan, passing thousands of stray cows — considered sacred in India, and they act the part — as they lie stone-faced in the middle of the road, aloof to the vehicles that are forced to navigate around them. Goats climb stout rock walls. Hindu pilgrims, glamorous in vivid, midriff-baring saris, kohl-rimmed eyes and ornately trimmed veils, turn roadside walks into mini festivals. Children wave heartily.
The sting of not getting to see tigers fades precipitously when my family and I cozy up at Six Senses Fort Barwara, a 700-year-old royal palace. When we first approached this hotel, my jaw dropped as I realized with childlike wonder that I’ve never slept in a fort before.
Were it not for the park’s closure, I wouldn’t be discovering the bizarre joy of a poolside champi, in which the resident barber, Deen — with his fabulous mustache — douses my head in herbal oil and sets about manhandling my scalp so vigorously, it reverberates through my body. I also would have missed that surefooted peacock leaping between the former army camp’s stone parapet arches. I wouldn’t have learned about the spiked elephant door, with its holes through which hot oil had been poured onto would-be attackers.
We detour back into town and luxuriate in the most opulent, ornate hotel of the journey, Raffles Jaipur. It’s fashioned like a lavish, mysterious zenana (queen’s palace), complete with jali-screened balconies, plus marble and gold everywhere. Come morning, I awake to the odd, shadowy calls of peacocks and fantasize about disappearing into the ornately painted Writers Bar — with its intoxicating neroli scent — to scribe something profound over a saffron martini. (Never happens.)
Beneath bold chandeliers in elegant Arkaa, servers graciously serve biryani with lamb that falls apart on my fork. Indulgence is the resounding theme, especially considering our butler is on hand to unpack my luggage,
fetch the earrings I forgot in the spa and even babysit my daughters.
The platinum bathroom is like jewelry; the bedrooms, equally exquisite. The rugs are all hand-knotted, the furniture is inlaid with camel bone, and the bathtub on the balcony is colossal. The rooftop pool is surrounded by jaguar statues, cabanas and a single pink shikara overlooking a radiant mountainscape — beyond which the monsoon has purified the sky.
After a week of this, the awe refuses to dissipate. Rajasthan still feels like an overwhelming swirl of grandeur and grit, its history tangible and yet so full of questions.
“You’ll have to come back for more answers," says Devendra. “Every time is different.”
Details:
Abercrombie & Kent works hand-in-hand with your travel advisor to create private journeys through Northern India, which typically include a mix of Jaipur, Udaipur, Agra, Delhi, Ranthambore and Mumbai, starting at $9,000 for 10 days — or even private jet experiences, from $39,995.
Peacock Alley: (Left) Music by the pool at Six Senses Fort Barwara and (right) a suite nook at Raffles Jaipur.
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STRANGERS
ON A TRAIN
AFTER A FOUR-YEAR HIATUS AND GLORIOUS REFURBISHMENT, BELMOND’S EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS HAS RETURNED TO THE TRACKS IN SOUTHEAST ASIA.
Singapore and Malaysia
WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS SCHALKX
I could’ve sworn I saw that French couple canoodling at the bar at Raffles Singapore a few days earlier — so why were they seated at separate tables during our onboard meals? And what was the deal with the Japanese gent who consistently lingered far behind our group during every off-board excursion? Plus, Jack and Christie from Maryland, both dripping in diamonds: Were they really the construction moguls they claimed to be?
It might've been my third lemongrass-spiked negroni speaking, but there, zipping through Malaysia's steamy jungles and palm plantations aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, I felt as if I had stumbled into an Agatha Christie mystery.
The fantasy began well before our first nightly cocktail
hour when I, along with this motley crew of characters, boarded the train at Singapore's Woodlands Station for a three-night jaunt up and down the Malay Peninsula.
And while the E&O’s 15 carriages still sported their iconic cream-and-green exterior stripes, the train's interiors sparkled anew, having just unveiled a long-overdue spruceup. Channeling the glitz of Golden Age train travel, the cabins are bedecked in paneling from polished rosewood and elm, jewel-hued silks and wispy dragons swirling in green damask. The two dining carriages also got upgraded. Belmond tapped Taiwanese superstar chef André Chiang, who reigns over a small galaxy of Michelin stars, to completely reimagine the menus with his polished, Eastmeets-West flair.
Back on Tracks: (Opposite, from top) The Observation Car, a blur of palm plantations and the Malaysian landscape. (Above, from left) Fresh details in a Pullman Cabin and the Lounge Car.
Every day, a handwritten card left on my nightstand would assign a table for lunch and dinner, where I'd tuck into Chiang's creations, such as a prawn-studded laksa bouillabaisse or Niçoise salad with kimchi and Champagne vinaigrette. None of it would've looked out of place at a white-glove fine diner somewhere in Tokyo or Hong Kong, which made the fact that it was all prepared in the train's shuddering, stamp-sized kitchen even more astounding.
I awoke in my state cabin that first morning aboard to see that Singapore and South Malaysia's urban sprawl had been replaced with the mist-shrouded mountaintops poking out of the Taman Negara, one of the world's
oldest rainforests. We divvied up among jeeps for a tour of the park — curiously, the French lovebirds again took separate rides — and hiked among howling gibbons and giant squirrels on elevated walkways weaving through the canopy. On a trek guided by volunteers from Malaysiabased Save Wild Tigers, I learned that only 200 of the elusive Malayan tigers still roam these tenebrous jungles — their turf, in part, protected by donations from cashflush benefactors rolling through on this very train. The only Malayan tigers I saw that day, though, were gleaming in gold, embedded on the E&O's carriages and dancing over the rims of fine china at breakfast.
Elevated Railroad: (Clockwise from top left) Tea in a Pullman Cabin, vegetable pot-au-feu, Belmond’s iconic exterior and a rainforest walk at Taman Negara. (Opposite) Bedtime on the Eastern & Oriental Express.
“Rickshaws awaited to whisk us past Chinese shrines swirled in incense and Hindu temples with kaleidoscopic roofs."
Another morning, we ferried to George Town, a candycolored colonial port on the eastern tip of Penang Island. A dozen-or-so rickshaws awaited to whisk us on a choose-your-own-adventure of the city, past Chinese shrines swirled in incense and Hindu temples with a thousand gods peering down from kaleidoscopic roofs. I spied Jack and Christie browsing Peranakan antiques as I dipped in and out of Penang’s plentiful coffee shops and dim sum joints.
Whistle-Stop: Scenes from a rendezvous in Penang, Malaysia.
ARTFULLY AUTHENTIC DISCOVERY
As the sun shines across a turquoise lagoon, decisions must be made. Will you go ashore to hike vanilla-scented forests? Dive in to snorkel marine-rich waters? Perhaps you'll take in the tropical tranquility from your stateroom balcony, or relax on a pristine stretch of sand on our private beach. Aboard the casually elegant m/s Paul Gauguin, the choices are yours to do as much or as little as you please.
To book your all-inclusive luxury voyage, contact your preferred Travel Advisor.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“Some trains, even the most luxurious, don’t offer ensuite bathrooms. However, all cabins on the E&O have private bathrooms and showers. That’s a make or break for me, because when I’m planning a trip, I certainly don't want to share a bathroom down the corridor with anyone.”
—Margaret Danon, travel advisor
All fine and good, but my favorite moments were the simplest ones, curled up on my cabin's sofa, watching teeny villages, glittering lakes and endless jungle whiz past my window in a blur. With the touch of a shiny brass button, I could summon my steward, the affable Vishnu, to deliver silver pots of oolong tea or arrange a massage at the on-board Dior Spa. And fortunately, my inner Poirot could take some time off. My suspects were all cleared. The only crime carried out that weekend was the caterwaul sing-along leaking from the Observation Car's karaoke kit.
Details:
Your travel advisor can tailor itineraries in Southeast Asia with three-night journeys departing from Singapore aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, a Belmond Train. Rates from $3,750. Note: The previously popular route to Bangkok remains suspended until upgrades to the tracks in Thailand are complete.
Plotlines: A silk robe in a Pullman Cabin and the Observation Car.
the great escape
FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHY: LILY ROSE; ART DIRECTION: DEVIN DUCKWORTH; PRODUCTION & PHOTO ASSISTANT: STEPHANIE POLLAK; STYLING: ELEONORA GASPARI; BEAUTY: SARA PETRUCCI; MODELING: CARLOTTA @ FASHION MODEL IT; STYLING ASSISTANT: ALESSANDRA CAPONEGRO
the Hills and Through
LET’S GET OUT OF TOWN. THE FAIRY-TALE BORGHI, CASTLES AND AGRITURISMO ESTATES OF THE ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE ARE CALLING.
Tuscany, Piedmont, Umbria and beyond
Cypress-lined country roads. Golden rolling hills. The unbroken succession of olive orchards and vineyards. An alfresco lunch sheltered by a leafy pergola... The Italian countryside holds a special place in the emotional landscape of all who behold its beauty — it represents the idyll.
An ideal journey might start in the mists of the Langhe, in the northwest corner of the country. The hills are blanketed in vineyards that give life to some of Italy’s most potent reds, the famed Barolos and Barbarescos. They continue across the lesser-known Tuscan-Emilian Apennine into the surprisingly wild and untamed territory of Chianti, the minimalism of the Val d’Orcia and the tranquility of Umbria, dotted with hilltop towns. They move onto the whitewashed masserie of inland Puglia, all the way to sun-drenched inner Sicily, with Mount Etna as a dramatic backdrop.
Where to stay? Discerning travelers are spoiled for choice, from the medieval atmosphere of Borgo San Felice to the delightful gardens of Villa Cetinale. Or opt for a grand wine-country estate like Castello Banfi, the fairytale-like Castello di Reschio or the picturesque charm of the historic farmhouse villas at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco.
For those seeking therapeutic relaxation and renewal, the spa scene is heavenly — from the grandeur of Bagni di Pisa to the soothing waters of Terme di Saturnia, a thermal spring in the Tuscan Maremma.
There are no wrong answers at any of the following carefully selected hotels — blissful alternatives to the hustle and bustle of the cities or the coasts.
Andiamo!
WRITING: MARINA SPIRONETTI
Over
the Woods: Power walking at Rosewood Castiglion Del Bosco in Tuscany, Carlotta wears a Luisa Spagnoli cape and dress and Scarosso boots.
hotel
BAGNI DI PISA PALACE & THERMAL SPA
(Tuscany) Neoclassical architecture frames the thermal pools and baths of the Grand Duke of Tuscany’s magnificent former residence. Bygone grandeur fills its 61 rooms, some of which boast original 18th-century frescoes. $
BAGLIONI MASSERIA MUZZA
(Puglia) The region’s Southern warmth meets sleek elegance throughout the 40 rooms of a whitewashed 17th-century farmhouse complex bathed in Apulian light. Choose among three on-site restaurants. Dreamy infinity pool among olive groves. Spa. $$
BORGO PIGNANO
(Tuscany) This eco-minded resort is every inch the idyllic stay. The 34 accommodations include luxurious maisonettes and villas with private pools that overlook the hills near Volterra. Two restaurants spotlight produce from the borgo’s own organic garden. $$
BORGO SAN FELICE
(Tuscany) Don’t miss a guided tour with the in-house oenologist at this 63-room medieval hamlet, set amid a sprawling estate of olive groves and vineyards near Siena. Dine at Michelin-starred Il Poggio Rosso. $$
Antonio Saba (Bagni di Pisa Palace) and Lily Rose (Tuscany)
Misty Mornings: (Top) The Tuscan hills outside of Siena and (above) a heated pool at Bagni di Pisa Palace & Thermal Spa.
BORGO SANTO PIETRO
(Tuscany) This beautiful 12th-century villaturned-22-room boutique hotel and spa is all about the peaceful, rural way of life. Farmto-fork philosophy at the Michelin-starred restaurant, with produce coming from a surrounding 300-acre farm. $$$$
BORGOBRUFA SPA RESORT
(Umbria) Nestled on a hill overlooking Assisi, this newly renovated, 49-room resort features the region’s most extensive spa. $
CASA DI LANGA
(Piedmont) A sustainability-minded, 39-room property in the Alta Langhe wine region. It’s a gourmet paradise, from cooking classes to wine tastings. All-natural treatments at the Lelòse spa. $
CASTEL MONASTERO
(Tuscany) This former monastery complex near Siena has become a peaceful country retreat, with traditional elegance reflected throughout its 74 rooms, which feature wooden beams and beautiful terra-cotta flooring. Bring a swimsuit. $$
CASTELFALFI
(Tuscany) A castle-turned-village with 146 rooms overlooks the hills outside Florence. Beyond the six restaurants, you’ll find the region’s largest golf course. The estate produces not one but seven labels of wine. Cin cin! $$
CASTELLO BANFI WINE RESORT
(Tuscany) Not only does this estate make some of country’s best-known wines, it also has 14 luxurious guest rooms carved out of 18th-century stone houses adjacent to the castle. Let the Brunello flow. $$
CASTELLO DI CASOLE, A BELMOND HOTEL (Tuscany) The cypress-lined lane to this 10th-century castle is the epitome of Tuscan landscaping. The resort has 39 suites with classic terra-cotta tiles, wooden beams and Carrara-marble bathrooms. Epic-sized pool with spectacular views. $$
CASTELLO DI VELONA RESORT, THERMAL SPA & WINERY
(Tuscany) A former fortress situated amid the stunning landscape of Val d’Orcia with 45 classically decorated rooms. The water in the baths and pool gushes from a natural hot spring — a must. $$
CASTELLO DI VICARELLO (Tuscany) Sweeping views of the Maremma from a 12th-century castle with nine über-chic suites — no TVs. Enjoy two pools instead, one of which is set in an olive grove. $$
COMO CASTELLO DEL NERO (Tuscany) A 50-room castle in the Chianti countryside near Siena, where Renaissance frescoes meet sophisticated interiors by Milanese designer Paola Navone. Creative cuisine at Michelin-starred La Torre. $$ OTEL
Comfort Zones: (Above) A heritage suite at COMO Castello Del Nero and (left) a dreamy bathroom at Castello di Casole, A Belmond Hotel.
Depth of Field: A terrace overlooking the hills of Umbria and (opposite) inside a suite at Hotel Castello di Reschio.
CASTELLO DI RESCHIO
(Umbria) Step into the ultimate fairy tale, straight out of a millenary castle. Selected antiques, linen textiles and bespoke furniture adorn the 36 stunning rooms, complemented by enchanting views of the Umbrian landscape. $$$
HOTEL LE FONTANELLE
(Tuscany) Live an authentic Chianti experience in this once-abandoned farmhouse that was lovingly transformed into a charming 36-room hotel. The spa offers a range of stress-free treatments. $$
IL FALCONIERE RELAIS & SPA
(Tuscany) With 30 individually decorated rooms, this 17th-century villa atop a hill just outside the Etruscan city of Cortona overlooks vineyards and olive groves. Wine tours. Vintage car drives. Michelin-starred restaurant. $$
L’ANDANA
(Tuscany) The former residence of Leopold II, Grand Duke of Tuscany, is now a refined hotel with 61 accommodations (with amazing silk draperies), plus a swanky private villa. Two restaurants under the supervision of Italy’s most famous Michelin chef, Enrico Bartolini. Intimate and refined spa. $$
LUPAIA
(Tuscany) Only 12 rooms, some with private gardens, await at this meticulously restored 17th-century estate in the breathtaking Val d’Orcia countryside. Lovely pool. Don’t miss the sunset negroni experience overlooking Montepulciano. $$$
MONACI DELLE TERRE NERE
(Sicily) Most Sicilian resorts are on the coast, but this 24-room, eco-minded estate is tucked away on the inland slopes of Mount Etna. Local architecture + contemporary art = the epitome of chic. Authentic local food with farm-to-fork ingredients. $$
HOW TO EXPLORE THE PATH LESS TRAVELED
Antonella Giancoli, CEO of Benarrivati , works hand-in-hand with travel advisors to create authentic experiences with unparalleled luxury and access for their clients. And while most travelers inevitably aim for the big must-sees, she says we mustn’t overlook the one-offs that show us the truest spirit of the Italian countryside — like Umbria's historic Corsa dei Ceri in Gubbio (held annually on May 15), when three massive wooden candle structures, the ceri , are raced through the town’s medieval alleys. A fervent crowd cheers them along from all sides, but with exclusive rooftop access, clients enjoy a stunning bird’s-eye view.
And she loves the fioritura (seasonal blooms) that crop up in Umbria's Sibillini Mountains from late May until July, when a large plateau 4,000 feet above sea level turns into a vibrant wonderland of red poppies, cornflowers, daisies and the most delicate white and lilac lentil flowers — the local crop. Her favorite way to experience them? With a fabulous picnic.
Meanwhile, authenticity is the key when it comes to the well-trodden stomping grounds of Tuscany, she says. Sometimes, as with the sought-after truffle hunts , it takes an honest approach. “People love it, and rightly so," she says. “But I don’t want to mislead anyone. In truth, truffle hunters go out in the middle of the night and in secrecy. We recommend a simulation, which still allows travelers to connect with a real truffle hunter and their dogs and, most importantly, to savor the unique taste of fresh truffles afterward.”
It's also important for travelers to understand what they’re seeing, she says. “I want to prepare them, put things into context. Like the Palio horse race in Siena : To fully appreciate it, people need to comprehend its historical significance. Or in little-known cities such as Lucca, where walking around the top of its walls gives you the fuller dimension of what living in a medieval city was like. This is the Italy I want people to see. It only takes the lesstraveled paths to discover wonders.”
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“At Rosewood’s year-round Castiglion del Bosco, the horseback rides through the vineyards are awesome. And while it feels remote in the Tuscan countryside, the resort is really just a stone’s throw from Montalcino and all of its amazing restaurants.”
—Josh Alexander, travel advisor
PIEVE ALDINA
The former summer residence of the bishops of Siena is now a 22-room hotel with museum-worthy 16th-century frescoes. Pinch-me panoramas of the Chianti countryside from every window. $
RELAIS LA CORTE DEI PAPI
(Tuscany) Under the Tuscan Sun gave even greater recognition to this historic manor house just outside Cortona, where 12 of 16 rooms boast luxurious private spas for ultimate seclusion. $
RELAIS RONCOLO 1888
(Emilia-Romagna) A 17-room borgo sits in the heart of a sprawling eco-estate of vineyards and olive orchards in the TuscanEmilian Apennine hills. Cooking classes and balsamic tastings, naturally. The pool is beautifully framed by cypress. $$
ROSEWOOD CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
(Tuscany) Antique furniture, genuine textiles and woodburning fireplaces define the 42 suites and 11 distinctive, multistory villas in one of the region’s oldest and best-preserved complexes of farmhouses. Impeccable cuisine and cooking school. Truffle hunting. Multiple pools. Hiking among ancient ruins. Golf. Painting classes immersed in the picturesque Val d’Orcia landscape. Every villa comes with a Land Rover Defender. The on-site winery produces prestigious Brunello di Montalcino. $$$
Window Dressing: (Top) A private villa at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco and (above) on the grounds at Rosewood, Carlotta wears a Brioni coat over a Paul Smith suit.
Featured SELECT & CURATED Hotels & Resorts by Internova
Castello di Velona
TUSCANY, ITALY
A UNESCO-designated 11th-century fortress perched on a Tuscan hilltop with panoramic Val d’Orcia views, ideal for Italian sunsets. Bask in thermal pools exclusive to the region, OLISPA’s sensory treatments and the estate’s Brunello di Montalcino vineyards—where history meets indulgent tranquility.
Kimpton Grand Roatán Resort and Spa
BAY ISLANDS, HONDURAS
Ranked among Central America’s top three resorts, this beachfront retreat fronts the world’s secondlargest barrier reef. With 119 elegant accommodations, from suites to villas, notable family activities and Kao Kamasa Spa’s transformative treatments, it’s a haven for adventure and relaxation.
The Twenty Two New York
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
Opening 2025 in Union Square, this boutique property will feature 77 rooms and suites, a vibrant restaurant and bar by Elizabeth Street Hospitality and a private members club. A creative addition to NYC, blending layers of character with modern flair for an indulgent experience at 16 E 16th Street.
Mystique, a Luxury Collection Hotel
SANTORINI, GREECE
Gracefully set atop Santorini’s Caldera, this authentic Oia retreat offers cave-style suites and villas carved into the cliffside, embodying Cycladic minimalism. Recently transformed with meticulous updates throughout, the inspired and tranquil setting is perfect for honeymoons and intimate escapes.
TERME DI SATURNIA NATURAL DESTINATION
(Tuscany) The spa lover’s ultimate retreat, with 124 rooms on the site of a thermal spring in the Maremma. Myriad water and mud therapies to choose from. GEO Certified 18-hole golf course, too. $$
VILLA CETINALE
(Tuscany) Built in 1680 for Pope Alexander VII, this villa outside Siena has been a muchloved retreat for royals and rock stars. Merely 13 rooms, sumptuously decorated. Private access to the gardens, renowned as some of Italy’s most spectacular. $$$$
VOCABOLO MOSCATELLI
(Umbria) The stone walls of a restored monastery meet contemporary art and design in each of the 12 suites. All-day à la carte breakfast — alfresco, if you choose. And pottery classes in the historic chapel. $
Your travel advisor can secure Internova Curated or Select perks, including a $100 hotel credit and daily breakfast for two, at any of these properties.
Heightened Awareness: (Top) The outdoor pool at Terme di Saturnia Natural Destination, (above) alfresco dining at Vocabolo Moscatelli and (below) white truffles at Borgo Pignano.
Marina Spironetti
Featured SELECT & CURATED Hotels & Resorts by Internova
Villa Cora
FLORENCE, ITALY
Nestled in a centuries-old park overlooking the Boboli Gardens, this 19th-century Florentine villa blends aristocratic grandeur with sumptuous, eclectic style. With 43 refined accommodations, a heated pool and the serene SPA BENè, it’s a luxurious gem just a short walk from the iconic Ponte Vecchio.
Broadwick Soho
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
This Soho retreat offers serene sanctuaries with bespoke furnishings, rich patterns and vibrant yet soothing palettes. Indulge in Italian glamour at Dear Jackie, the sultry lower-ground dining destination, or sip cocktails at Flute, a rooftop bar with sweeping city views and playful maximalist charm.
Marbella Club Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa
MÁLAGA, SPAIN
Tucked amid serene pine groves and the Mediterranean Sea, this legendary retreat features 130 elegant rooms and villas, an expansive Kids Club, eight distinctive dining venues and integrative wellness experiences. Surrounded by lush gardens, it’s a timeless resort loved by multigenerational guests.
Rosa Grand Milano
MILAN, ITALY
In the heart of Italy’s most stylish city, steps from the Duomo, Teatro alla Scala and the Fashion District, this refined retreat features clean lines, minimal furnishings and neutral tones with bold pops of color. Chic interiors and thoughtful design elevate this outstanding Milanese destination.
SHOWDOWN
at
THE GRAND
A SWANKY NEW CHOPHOUSE IN AN OLD MOUNTAIN TOWN IS THIS WINTER’S HOTTEST APRÈS-SKI INDULGENCE.
Telluride, Colorado
We’re halfway up the Apex Lift — skis dangling, our legs on fire — en route to the day’s final run. Tears freeze and cling to my eyelashes when I remove my foggy goggles to marvel yet again at the snow-covered San Juans.
Oblivious to the western flank’s beauty, the husband pokes at his watch. “If we cut over to Zulu Queen or Chongo's, we can make it to the bar by 4:30.”
Ugh. Double-black diamonds. While I’ve spent many years chasing those thrills, my old knees are begging for the sanity route — I suggest See Forever to Butterfly. “You know that’s going to add at least 30 minutes,” he replies. “And we still need to catch the Gondola to Telluride Station. That puts at the bar well after 5 o’clock.”
He has a point. And I am so ready for a drink. I can’t stop thinking about The Grand’s incredible steak tartare, made with heavenly Wagyu beef from a farm in Hesperus, near Durango. And that gorgeous Sakura pork chop with Colorado huckleberry jam. My stomach growls.
I forgot to make a reservation in the dining room before we booked our flights. Our best shot now is the first-come, first-served bar, which will surely be thronged. We have no choice. I switch my downhill playlist from Orville Peck and Future Islands to Camouflage and Depeche Mode.
Snowcaps to Nightcaps: (Above) Grilled Sakura pork chop and (right) the beet-nik cocktail at The Grand. (Opposite) the Gondola and Telluride’s historic Colorado Avenue.
“Longtime-local chefs Erich Owen and Ross Martin launched a modern, laid-back chophouse called The Grand — and instantly altered the balance of power in Telluride’s food scene. "
The après-ski scene in Telluride has always been lowkey, fun and diverse. It hasn’t changed for decades. We’ve frequently decompressed at Cosmopolitan, just across from the Gondola, the cozy 221 South Oak around the corner, or the tony Timber Room in Mountain Village. Sometimes it's Allred’s at St. Sophia Station. And then there's The Chop House at New Sheridan, and La Marmotte, the perennial French bistro.
But something’s happened lately. In August, longtime-local chefs Erich Owen and Ross Martin launched a modern, laidback chophouse called The Grand — and instantly altered the balance of power in Telluride’s food scene.
It’s not their first venture. The best friends also run an under-the-radar bistro, Petite Maison. But more ambitiously, before the pandemic, they first debuted The National, which dramatically reset the bar for dinner in this town. In very short order, however, their landlord got greedy and jacked up the rent. So the chefs bailed and vowed to start over. They quickly found a better space at a fair price (practically across the street) on Colorado Avenue, the picturesque main drag. But it came with a catch: The interior, formerly home to a rowdy pizza joint, had to be completely gutted and rebuilt. It would take years, not months.
It's been a long slog, Martin says. “For 25 years, we’ve been pushing ourselves here, determined to make Telluride a culinary destination.”
The dramatic copper light fixtures, leather chairs, glass wine vault and stunning artworks that previously defined The National now illuminate and animate the even buzzier 98-seat Grand — that's 30 seats more than they had before. And déjà vu: The entire crew is here.
Mountain Pass: Chef Ross Martin, spicy tuna on crispy rice and (opposite) The Grand’s dining room.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“In Telluride, they don't care what you wear for dinner. You are welcome straight off the slopes in your ski clothes. It's my new favorite town."
—Michelle Schardt, travel advisor
As much as I love to see it, I quietly cringe at their success. I worry they have opened the town's floodgates. Aspenites and Jackson Hole free riders: “Look away! Nothing to see here.”
The lights are dimmed low. But when the steak tartare and pork chop land on a nearby table, you’ll easily notice the dishes that lured me down the mountain at breakneck speed. You will want them all for yourself. And when yours arrive, you will beastly devour it — and set off the dominoes for everyone else in the dining room.
If it’s not those items that start the trend, it’ll surely be a platter of oysters and chilled crab legs. Or an icecold martini with Castelvetrano olives and a bump of caviar, or a cocktail called common law, a pink margarita made with mezcal, peach nectar and Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur, hence the vibrant hue. Town regulars will recognize Diamond David DeRinzy and Trevor Howell behind the bar — local legends of après ski.
I jolt awake in the dead of night. “We forgot to order the spicy tuna!” I blurt into the darkness, our blackout curtains drawn tight. “And the burrata,” I whimper. “We have to go back.” I glance to my right and vaguely make out the shape of a husband, sound asleep.
Thirst Trap: (Clockwise from top left) Bartender Trevor Howell, a caviar martini and oysters.
The Grand makes an excellent burger, too, which is especially popular at lunchtime. It’s one of those monsters that, as I grip it with both hands and heave it toward my gleefully smiling face, I know isn’t going fit. “Fuck it. Here goes.” When you summon the courage to bite into it, be sure to have a napkin in your lap and a bloody mary within reach. And please maintain at least some modicum of composure. Everyone’s watching — and you’re about to set off another trail of dominoes.
Details:
Lunch and dinner daily. Reservations for the dining room open three months in advance. Full menu at the bar, which is first-come, first-served. thegrandtelluride.com.
Stay:
The most luxurious hotel in Telluride, Auberge’s 155room Madeline Hotel & Residences is the crown jewel of Mountain Village, a short walk from the Gondola. The two-story, four-bedroom penthouse offers jaw-dropping views of Mount Wilson at sunset. Your travel advisor can secure Select perks, including a $100 resort credit and daily breakfast for two. $$$
MORE APRÈS SKI IN TELLURIDE
In case you can’t get into The Grand...
221 South Oak
Coziest spot in town. Order the elk sausage and s’mores martini.
Allred’s
The OG mountain lodge. A favorite for luxe family dinners.
Alpinist and the Goat
Fondue and fruit-infused barrels of liquor. Elbow-to-elbow.
Alpino Vino
Highest altitude dining in the U.S., via snowcat. Italian-ish prix fixe.
Cosmopolitan
The Cheers of Telluride. Lobster dogs, miso-glazed cod and the perfect cosmo.
Kazahana
Intimate sushi omakase. New on the scene.
La Marmotte
French onion soup, beef bourguignon, French 75s.
New Sheridan Chop House
Wedge salad, bison ribeye and whiskey galore.
Petite Maison
Escargot and steak au poivre. Outstanding wines.
There
Always a tight squeeze for daiquiris and craft beer.
Timber Room
Glitterati HQ in the Village. Caviar canapés, pork terrine, elk tartare, smoked bourbon.
Tomboy Tavern
Burgers, bubbles and bloody marys in the Village. It’s a zoo.
Wood Ear
Where mixology, Texas barbecue and Japanese ramen converge.
Village Peep: Country terrine and the alpinist martini at Timber Room inside Madeline Hotel & Residences.
Powder Heads: The Polar Queen Express in Telluride.
Dutch Double
FROM ITS LOFTY PERCH ON THE AMSTEL RIVERBANK, DE L’EUROPE AMSTERDAM REIGNS AS THE CITY’S GRAND DAME OF OLD-WORLD LUXURY, WITH A TWIST.
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Like the city itself, De L'Europe Amsterdam has two faces. I’m met first by the traditional side. An umbrella-wielding doorman is there before my car door opens, and he sweeps me out of the rain into the opulent lobby — all burgundy and gold, florals and velvets. Crystal chandeliers illuminate dark oil paintings, including one from 1633 by a Rembrandt contemporary. I worry that I didn’t pack my pearls.
But first impressions belie the au courant artistry that pulses throughout this 129-year-old, 105-room hotel in the heart of the city. A 2020 expansion birthed a new “creative wing.” Dubbed the ’t Huys concept (“house” in old Dutch), the development includes 14 contemporary suites designed in collaboration with local iconoclasts, offering an unexpected take on Amsterdam — inside and out. For example, The Media Nanny, a local PR agency, decked out Suite 144 as a rock ’n‘ roll wonderland. Not only can you jam out in-suite, but you’ll also be escorted on a private shopping excursion to the local vinyl-records stores. Suite 148 is an ode to avant-garde fashion, thanks to local brand RVDK (aka Ronald van der Kemp). In-room, you'll feel like you’re inside the designer’s studio, which gets you in the mindset for your private visit to RVDK’s actual atelier.
WRITING: LAURA SCHOOLING
PHOTOGRAPHY: GABRIEL TESSEROLLI
Holland’s Opus: (Opposite) The legendary facade of De L’Europe Amsterdam. (Above) In-suite detail and the hotel lobby.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“De L'Europe has a new speakeasy right on the water — I would definitely prioritize that. And for those traveling with family, the hotel has a kids' program with a dedicated guide to help children adventure through the city.”
—Rebecca East, travel advisor
Whatever your fancy — fashion (Harper’s Bazaar), culture (Valerie Creative Agency), art (The Ravestijn Gallery), film (Wolfi Pictures) — there is a suite to captivate. 't Huys is also the name of the hotel’s gift shop, which primarily features products from these collaborators, along with a few other local goodies (like hats made by a chef from the hotel’s trattoria). Despite my best efforts to resist the splurge, I brought home a beautiful handbag by Iris Maree.
The lobby is the epicenter of action, where guests and locals work, drink and mingle under the constant gaze of Alfred “Freddy” Heineken’s black-and-white metal portrait by Dutch artist Jeroen Henneman. “He’s always watching over us,” quips a hotel butler.
During his tenure in the 1950s as CEO of the Heineken empire, Freddy spent so much time in the hotel, he bought it. The manager of the eponymous Freddy’s Bar shows me where the man himself used to sit. I ask what kind of drink I should have, and he gives me a curious smile. “We can make anything, but Heineken is religion here.”
De L’Europe Amsterdam is the last family-owned luxury hotel in Amsterdam, and it really feels like a big family. Eef Sparla, the head concierge, has worked at the hotel for 24 years (but still so young!). Despite the serious, navy button-down attire, there is a charming casualness to the service. When Taylor Swift was in town just before my arrival, the staff made bracelets (which fans are known to trade) for all the Swifties.
A note of caution: There is a small problem with the food... You might not be able to stop eating it. Surely that explains why all three restaurants are so favored by the locals. At every meal, I tell myself, “Oh, I’ll just try a little bite,” only to enter a state of rapturous mania and awaken to find an empty plate. The hotel won’t let you order even a simple tea in the lobby without plying you with a warm, fresh, buttery madeleine. “Uncle!”
History Channel: (Clockwise from top left) The Heineken tap at Freddy’s, the kitchen and breakfast at Brasserie Marie and a glimpse of the lobby lounge.
“Whatever your fancy — fashion, culture, art, film — there is a suite to captivate."
Mod Pod: Bedroom of the Valerie Creative ‘t Huys Suite.
INSIDER INSIGHT:
“De L'Europe's canal views are wonderful — with typical Dutch boats gliding past — and the location is ideal: two blocks from the bustling Kalverstraat, known for shopping, and a quick walk to the Flower Market, too.”
—Allan Sneag, travel advisor
Brasserie Marie offers inventive French fare with dazzling river views. I could stare out this window all day. Trattoria Graziella is charming, with its homemade pastas and quirky, deconstructed tiramisu. Restaurant Flore is an absolute must, but fair warning: You’ll need to plan ahead, at least a month. (Flore will be closed for a major remodel from January to March but is taking reservations for April.) While dining alone for more than three hours, I never once pick up my book. Afterward, perusing the wine cellar with sommelier Antonello Nicastri, I marvel at how down-to-earth it all seems. His response: “You can only have fun when you are being yourself.”
The rain has finally cleared — not that the hardy Dutch seem bothered either way — and I step onto a 1920s wooden boat right off the hotel’s patio for a cruise through the canals. I start to wonder: “Is it the reflections off the water here, or do the locals still get a twinkle in their eye when talking about their city?” I get my answer, surprisingly, from an Italian, who swears her own beloved “Venice can’t compare to Amsterdam’s beauty.”
As always happens when I visit family — and that’s the bond I feel after three days at De L’Europe — I lament leaving so soon.
De L’Europe Amsterdam
Your travel advisor can secure Internova Select perks, including a $100 hotel credit as well as complimentary daily breakfast for two.
Rush Hour: (Clockwise from above) Exterior of Brasserie Marie and a selection of oysters, cozy seating in Freddy’s Bar and pedaling past the hotel entrance.
THE OLTRE
Q&A
JONATHAN ADLER with
Jonathan Adler rocketed to acclaim 30 years ago when he launched a must-have-it pottery line at Barneys New York. But it was his breathtaking 2004 overhaul of the Parker Palm Springs resort (which he fabulously redesigned again in 2017) that forever cemented his status as aesthetic statesman. He launched a furniture line, graced us with some of our all-time favorite hostess gifts (trinket trays, vases and candy canisters) and dabbled in reality TV (Bravo’s Top Design ).
As irreverent and colorful as ever, Adler oversees more than a dozen eponymous lifestyle stores from coast to coast and across the pond. And now he’s welcoming people into what he's dubbed Atelier Adler in New York’s Soho, symbolically located among the art galleries he frequented in his youth. At the new atelier, visitors can shop, of course, and they might even spot the man himself at the pottery wheel.
A self-professed Anglophile (who hitched himself to a Brit), Adler cultivates ideas from everywhere. It was a trip to Peru, for example, that inspired his expansion to textiles. So, what’s next?
“More products, more stores, more glamour.”
Which cities inspire you most?
Capri, because of its appreciation for the fantastical. And London, because the Victoria and Albert is there. Plus, I love the food, the culture, the architecture, the vibe, the proximity to Europe.
Favorite places to shop?
Paris for the flea markets. Tokyo for fashion, because the clothes there actually fit me. I turn into an Energizer Bunny and shop, shop, shop.
Favorite hotel?
Claridge’s in London. It sounds pompous, but it really does feel like home.
Sweatpants on airplanes?
Never. I wear white jeans. Every day. Weddings, funerals, brises…
For a one-week trip, how many pairs of shoes?
One. New Balance sneakers. I’m a minimalist packer. I could go away for three months and carry a little teeny bag.
Greatest extravagance when traveling?
Hotel laundry. A minibar is the most terrifying thing on earth because if you touch it, you go bankrupt. But hotel laundry? I use that constantly.
The one trait you cannot tolerate in a hotel?
Bad pillows. It makes me sound ancient and fussy, but I need fluffy down pillows. There, I said it.
Any insider tips for Palm Springs?
Stay at the Parker, of course. And I’m not just saying that because I designed it, twice. It’s like no other place in the world. Also, no trip to Palm Springs is complete without a cruise through the Trina Turk boutique.
LAURA SCHOOLING
Merry Potter: Jonathan Adler in his Soho atelier and (above left) the Palm Springs Yacht Club at Parker Palm Springs.
Experience the Caribbean in a luxurious Cunard ® Grill Suite
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Eastern Caribbean
12 nights Oct 16, 2025
Miami, FL, USA > San Juan, Puerto Rico > St. John’s, Antigua > Castries, St. Lucia > Bridgetown, Barbados > Philipsburg, St. Maarten > Road Town, Tortola > Miami, FL, USA
Caribbean 21 nights Nov 6, 2025
Miami, FL, USA > San Juan, Puerto Rico > St. John’s, Antigua > Castries, St. Lucia > Bridgetown, Barbados > Philipsburg, St. Maarten > Road Town, Tortola > Miami, FL, USA > Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands > Montego Bay, Jamaica > Roatán, Honduras > Costa Maya, Mexico > Cozumel, Mexico > Miami, FL, USA
Western Caribbean
9 nights Dec 9, 2025
Miami, FL, USA > Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands > Montego Bay, Jamaica > Belize City, Belize > Cozumel, Mexico > Miami, FL, USA
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