NERDI NG OUT OVER FOOD
路 LAURYN NIEMANTS 路 DJ CRABRANGUCCI 路 AUSTIN JOHNSON 路 SARAH JANE HUNT J U N E 2020 | U.S. $4.95
THE FOOD ISSUE
TH E U N ITE D STATES OF FOOD SE RVICE
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FROM THE EDITOR // LETTER BY DAISY HUTZELL-RODMAN, MANAGING EDITOR
INDIAN FOOD, VEGETARIAN OPTIONS, AND CHOCOLATE The 2020 Food Issue
T
his June issue is devoted to food, and the people in the food and beverage industry who feed Omaha daily. When we began planning this issue months ago, the average American ate out three times a week. When COVID-19 hit, the food industry, like many others, was hit hard. We worked hard to bring you information as accurate as possible at presstime.
I don’t have many vices, but one of them is coffee—nobody wants to talk to or see me before I drink at least 8 oz. of coffee. That’s why I enjoyed the dining profile about Jasmyn and Jacob Wichert, the creative couple who run Amateur Coffee. One of my favorite types of cuisine is Indian food. More than one company sells pouches of Indian food and rice that can be heated in the microwave in a minute. These were a lifesaver last year when the flooding affected my water supply, and they also come in handy on days when cooking seems too much of an effort. Several Indian restaurants have appeared in the last few years, one of many cooking styles and businesses that have come about as immigrants come to Omaha. One feature article this month discusses immigration in Omaha, and how people moving to this city have created a variety of restaurants since its beginning—from the Germans and Chinese of the 1800s to the Africans of the 2010s. Appetizers are a fun indulgence when eating at a restaurant. In fact, at my favorite pub in Omaha, my dinner is often an order of blue-cheese potato skins and a salad. At the editorial planning meeting for this issue, a
co-worker mentioned one restaurant in town that serves PB&J Wings, which got us thinking what choices do diners in Omaha have to stray from the ubiquitous spinach dip? Obviously Omaha offers six alternatives, including those PB&J Wings. Traveling encourages people to try new things, but Linda Sue Lichtenwalter and fiance Chris Larkin travel largely to taste new foods. The pair, who work in food service here in Omaha, even bring back some of their finds—such as chocolate from Paris. Their story is quite the adventure. Last year’s main feature was titled “New Cuisine in 2019,” and it featured food from a variety of restaurants, styled for photography by Sarah Hunt. She is an independent food stylist who has built a career for herself creating plates of food to be photographed. We loved the work she produced for us, and we thought you would like to know a bit more about her—so she is one of our A+C features this round. This year’s main feature shines a spotlight on service industry workers, from owners to servers to barbacks. Turn to page 30 to read more about this project from senior editor Tara Spencer. This issue also covers chefs, both seasoned and starting out. Austin Johnson started his career bussing tables at a restaurant in West Omaha. Today, he is an executive chef in New York City, and in between, he has studied under chefs from Seattle to Paris. Lauryn Niemants is a student at Metropolitan Community
JUNE
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College who has found a passion for food preparation…a far cry from her favorite high school activity of theater arts. One of my favorite places in Omaha to get a quick bite to eat is Pepperjax Grill. Omaha can thank Gary Rohwer for this restaurant, and the entrepreneur has since sold the chain and moved to other ventures. This story appears in the SixtyPlus section. Other favorite places have closed in the past five years. Petrow’s was a nostalgic place to eat comfort food and drink a milkshake, and I miss Amato’s ricotta pancakes on the weekends when searching for brunch. You will find this story in the Sixty-Plus section as well. Active Living subject Phil McEvoy spends part of his fall hunting for deer with friends…and anyone he meets is considered one of those friends. The health feature, on the other hand, touts the medically-backed Mediterranean diet. Takeout Tuesday, Fast-food Friday, and Sunday Supper—this edition will, hopefully, inspire each person to support the food industry in our city. We at Omaha Magazine thank each reader for picking up this edition. We put our hearts, and our stomachs, into bringing you the best of the area. * Note: The hotel edition of Omaha Magazine has a different cover and does not include all of the editorial content included in the magazine’s full city edition. For more information on our city edition, visit OmahaMagazine.com.
TAB L E of CON T E N T S THE USUAL SUSPECTS 003 From the Editor
Indian Food, Vegetarian Options, and Chocolate
006 Between the Lines 008 Calendar of Events 073 Obviously Omaha
Six Interesting Appetizers
074 Adventure
One Couple Nerds Out Over Food
090 Explore! Calendar 095 Instagram 096 Not Funny
Bacon and Eggs and Tortilla Chips…
A R T S + C U LT U R E 014 Performance Tim Siragusa
018 Visual
Sarah Jane Hunt
030
F E AT U R E S
026
BRINGING A TASTE OF THEIR HOMELAND
030
THE UNITED STATES OF FOOD SERVICE
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Immigrants Diversify Omaha Food Scene A Focus on Those Who Serve You
JUNE 2020
022 Music
DJ Crabrangucci
PE O P L E 052 Gen O
Lauryn Niemants
GIVING 056 Calendar
173 trees have been reforested
due to the printing of our last round of publications.
Learn more at
NERDING OUT OVER FOOD
.com
· LAURYN NIEMANTS · DJ CRABRANGUCCI · AUSTIN JOHNSON · SARAH JANE HUNT J U N E 2020 | U.S. $4.95
THE FOOD ISSUE
TH E U N ITE D STATES OF FOOD SE RVICE
60PLUS IN OMAHA
014
A B O U T T HE COV ER
Omaha restaurants began to open for business again in early May. Some restaurants fully opened their businesses, some retained curbside and carryout only. Were the restaurateurs ready? Were the patrons ready?
061 Editor’s Letter 062 Active Living Phil McEvoy
066 Health
The Mediterranean Diet
068 Nostalgia
Remembered Restaurants
070 Feature
Glenn Valley Foods
DINING 078 Chef Profile
Austin Johnson
080 Profile
Jasmyn and Jacob Wichert
082 Dining Guide
078
read online at omahamagazine.com
Between
THE LINES A LOOK AT FOUR OMAHA MAGAZINE TEAM MEMBERS GIL COHEN—Executive Vice President, Sales & Marketing Cohen has been with Omaha Magazine for 13 years, but he said the past three months have been the most challenging and the most rewarding. The challenging part is trying to sell advertising when businesses are not sure when and if they will reopen. The rewarding part is the way the Omaha community has banded together, how businesses have strived to stay open despite having to re-engineer their business plans, and how for-profit and nonprofit organizations have pooled resources to help those in need, including folks who never needed help before. Cohen has had great conversations with some of the Omaha area’s top business leaders and they, and he, are optimistic that things will bounce back and be better than before.
JENNA GABRIAL GALLAGHER—Contributing Writer Gallagher grew up in Omaha and New England reading fashion magazines—and eventually went to work for one, Harper’s Bazaar: first in the classic Devil Wears Prada role, then later as a features editor. She has written and edited several books, including the Louis Vuitton City Guide series for Paris and New York, Harper’s Bazaar’s Greatest Hits and Mary Mitchell: Drawn to Fashion about wonderful Omaha fashion illustrator Mary Mitchell. Gallagher is currently a freelance writer and editor, specializing in dining and entertaining, home décor, fashion, travel, and other lifestyle topics, and can be found on Instagram at @thebeaspora. She lives with her husband, a neurotic Maltese, and three funny little girls in a home where she’s hosted concerts, fundraisers, and even a few weddings.
ANDREA KSZYSTYNIAK—Contributing Writer Kszystyniak (pronounced Kiss-Tin-Knee-Ack) moved to Omaha in 2013 to work at the local newspaper. Kszystyniak left the job but stuck around Nebraska and has since co-founded Omaha Zine Fest, an annual event celebrating self publishing. When they’re not making zines as part of Rowdy Boys Zine Collective, they’re feeding their worm farm, trying to get back into fermentation, or reading extensively about mental health and trauma. Abolition, mutual aid, and leftist politics are a big part of Kszystyniak’s life, as is their really fussy 12 year-old-cat, Scout. Kszystyniak has worked in arts and culture journalism since they published a review of Aqua Teen Hunger Force in their high school newspaper 15 years ago. Getting to write about the things they love for other people continues to be a delightful surprise.
DOUGLAS “OTIS TWELVE” WESSELMANN—Columnist Wesselmann won a Debut Dagger from the British CWA for his novel Imp: Being the Lost Notebooks of Rufus Wilmot Griswold in the Matter of the Death of Edgar Allan Poe. His first novel, On the Albino Farm, is was serialized last month on his blog, douglaswesselmann.com. Wesselmann's novel Tales of the Master (Grief Illustrated Press) was released in 2016. He has been a fixture on Omaha radio/ TV for 40 years and currently hosts the morning show on Classical 90.7 FM. Despite rumors to the contrary, Wesselmann lives in the middle of North America, though he is considering moving to one of the edges.
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JUNE 2020
JUNE 2020 VOLUME 38 // ISSUE 2
Get tickets now for best prices and seating!
EDITORIAL Managing Editor
DAISY HUTZELL-RODMAN Senior Editor
TARA SPENCER Associate Editor
LINDA PERSIGEHL Editorial Intern
ERIN WALTER Contributing Writers
LEO ADAM BIGA · RYAN BORCHERS · CHRIS BOWLING JENNA GABRIAL GALLAGHER · VIRGINIA KATHRYN GALLNER LISA LUKECART · ANDREA KSZYSTYNIAK · PATRICK MCGEE SEAN ROBINSON · TIM TRUDELL · ERIN WALTER DOUGLAS “OTIS TWELVE” WESSELMANN
CREATIVE Creative Director
MATT WIECZOREK Senior Graphic Designer
DEREK JOY
Aug. 7 –16
Graphic Designer II
MADY BESCH
Contributing Photographers
JUSTIN BARNES · KEITH BINDER · COLIN CONCES SCOTT DRICKEY · JOSHUA FOO · WILLIAM HESS · SARAH LEMKE
SALES Executive Vice President Sales & Marketing
GIL COHEN
Senior Branding Specialist
6915 Cass St. | (402) 553-0800 | OmahaPlayhouse.com
MARY HIATT
Senior Sales Executive & 60PLUS in Omaha Contributing Editor
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GWEN LEMKE
Publisher’s Assistant & OmahaHome Contributing Editor
SANDY MATSON
Senior Sales Coordinator
ALICIA HOLLINS
Branding Specialists
DAWN DENNIS · GEORGE IDELMAN Digital Sales Manager
JILLIAN DUNN
OPERATIONS Operations Officer & Local Stubs Ticketing Representative
JOSHUA PETERSON Ad Traffic Manager
DAVID TROUBA
Distribution Manager
MIKE BREWER
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Omaha Magazine Vol 38 Issue II, publishes monthly except February, April, August, November, December, totaling 8 issues by Omaha Magazine, LTD, 5921 S. 118 Circle, Omaha, NE 68137. Periodical postage at Omaha, NE, and additional offices and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Omaha Magazine, 5921 S. 118 Circle, Omaha, NE 68137
(paid ticketed admission for some exhibitions)
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EVENTS
» Exhibitions «
LIV SCHULMAN: THE GOBERNMENT
Through June 13 at Bemis Center, 724 S. 12th St. Paris-based artist Schulman’s multi-channel video The Gobernment is described as a fictional historical revision of the lives of forgotten women artists. Th is will be the first presentation of her work in the U.S. Admission: free. 402.341.7130. —bemiscenter.org
BARIGHT GALLERY ART SERIES EXHIBIT
Through July 7 at Fontenelle Forest Nature Center, 1111 N. Bellevue Blvd. Th is annual series features a different artist, or group of artists, each quarter. Th is time around, the group is Community. Community is a non-juried, salon style exhibit that celebrates the creativity of Fontenelle Forest members, neighbors, staff, volunteers, and friends. The exhibit will be vibrant and diverse, featuring artists of any age, working in any medium or style. Admission: $11. 402.731.3140. —fontenelleforest.org
INFLUENCE
Through Aug. 22 at Kaneko, 1111 Jones St. Creativity begins with an idea. Th rough the exploration of physical space, artistic themes, history, and experience, the season of INFLUENCE will examine the history of change at Kaneko while celebrating the future of the organization which has become a driving force for inclusion and diversity of creative thought in Omaha. 402.341.3800 —thekaneko.org
PICASSO, MASTER IN CLAY
Through Aug. 22 at El Museo Latino, 4701 S 25th St. The whimsical works of one of history’s most iconic artists is at El Museo Latino. The exhibition features more than 55 of the legendary Pablo Picasso’s stylized ceramics. On loan from the Park West Museum, this substantial collection is on display for the first time in Omaha. Admission: $5 adults, $4 college students with ID, $3.50 seniors and children ages 5-17, and free to children under 5 and active military with ID. 402.731.1137. —elmuseolatino.org
CLAUDIA WIESER: GENERATIONS
Through June 13 at Bemis Center, 724 S. 12th St. Wieser is a Bavarian artist whose hand-painted sculptures, gold-leafed drawings, and multi-media installations show her appreciation for classical forms, as well as abstract geometrics. Admission: free. 402.341.7130. —bemiscenter.org
ART FROM AFAR: JOSLYN’S ONLINE ENGAGEMENT OPPORTUNITIES.
Ongoing. Art fans can log on to the Joslyn’s website to listen to curator-led gallery talks, participate in short courses, take virtual tours, and more. —joslyn.org
JOE MCHALE
Through June 5 at Fred Simon Gallery, 1004 Farnam St. McHale is a visual artist based out of Kearney. His paintings are lively and full of kinetic energy. He creates a visual representation of moments when time stands still and the past, present, and future combine into one. Admission: Free. 402.595-2122. —artscouncil.nebraska.gov
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JUNE 2020
TAKING IT TO THE STREETS: GRADING DOWNTOWN OMAHA
Through June 21 at Durham Museum, 801 S. 10th St. Th is educational photography exhibit shows images of the extensive street projects in downtown Omaha that took place throughout the 1880s-1920s. Viewers can learn about the projects that shaped Omaha and see how the streets have changed. Admission: $11 adults, $8 seniors (62+), $7 children (3-12). 402.444.5071. —durhammuseum.org
PULITZER PRIZE PHOTOGRAPHS
Th rough Sept.20 at Durham Museum. 801 S. 10th St. Photography plays an important role in documenting history. Th is exhibit features over 80 large-format, Pulitzer Prize-winning photographs with information about how the image was captured. Admission: $11 adults, $8 seniors (age 62+), $7 children 3-12, free for children under 2 and members. 402.444.5071. —durhammuseum.org
SPORTY WOMEN: THE DESIRE TO COMPETE
Through Dec. 31 at Durham Museum, 801 S. 10th St. Equal treatment for women in sports is as modern a topic today as it was for women 100 years ago. Th is exhibit uses images from the Durham Museum Photo Archive that highlight elements of conflicting standards that allowed women to compete in sports if they maintained their feminine appearance. Admission: $11 adults, $8 seniors (62+), $7 children (3-12). 402.444.5071. —durhammuseum.org
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» Stage Performances « ONLINE AT O-PA
Ongoing. Omaha Performing Arts is providing learning opportunities from the comfort of home through events such as Jazz Academy Digital Lessons and Wednesday Warmups. —o-pa.org/digital-learning
DANCE AND ACTING CLASSES
Ongoing online through Jewish Community Center of Omaha. JCC has several online classes, including a variety of dance and acting classes, available for people to watch and perform in their living rooms. —jccomaha.org
A MEMORY HELD IN YOU
Through June 19 online with Amplify Arts. Positioning itself between the practices of expanded cinema, performance, and meditative listening, A Memory Held in You is an immersive virtual installation that examines how what people see, hear, and feel is woven into the fabric of a remembered experience. In a series of digital events staged across social media platforms and Amplify Arts’ website each week. —amplifyarts.org
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TARA VAUGHN’S SHE ROCKS
Through June 28 at Omaha Community Playhouse, 6915 Cass St. She Rocks celebrates women artists and songwriters of the ’60s–’80s, woven together with songs and stories. Backed by an all-star band, Tara performs music from artists like Janis Joplin, Linda Ronstadt, Aretha Franklin, Blondie, Heart and many more. In this unique review, Tara Vaughan masterfully presents an evening of classic rock and roll with the focus on female artists and songwriters. Times vary. Tickets: TBD. —omahaplayhouse.com
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MENOPAUSE THE MUSICAL
June 18 at Holland Performing Arts Center, 1200 Douglas St. Four women at a lingerie sale have nothing in common but a black lace bra—and memory loss, hot flashes, night sweats, not enough sex, too much sex, and more. 7:30 p.m. Tickets: —o-pa.org
JUNE 2020
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OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR
» Concerts « HAIRBALL
June 5 at Ralston Arena, 7300 Q St. Hairball is not an ’80s tribute band—it’s an ‘80s hard rock experience. Fans can expect to hear hits from Van Halen, KISS, Motley Crue, Queen, Journey, Aerosmith, and more. Note: Th is concert is rescheduled from April 25. 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $25 general admission, $30 club. 402.934.9966 —ralstonarena.com
MIPSO
St. Frances Cabrini The spiritual home of the Little Italy and Old Market neighborhoods since 1857.
stcabriniomaha.org 10th and Williams Street
OMAHA FARMERS MARKET
June 6 thru Mid-October Due to COVID-19, special health and safety measures will be enforced and only locally grown produce and fresh food will be available.
SATURDAY Old Market
City Parking Garage 1011 Jackson Street 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
SUNDAY
Baxter Arena Lot 26 2425 S. 67th Street 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. OmahaFarmersMarket.org
MEDIA SPONSORS
SPONSORS Security National Bank • LeafFilter Gutter Protection Old Omaha Association • Physicians Mutual Veridian Credit Union • Aksarben Village
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JUNE 2020
MARKET DETAILS
First hour is designated for seniors, people with underlying health conditions and expectant mothers. Visit our website, omahafarmersmarket.org, for a complete list of safety guidelines, additional ways to purchase from vendors and more!
June 5 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. This South Carolina band blends Appalachia with modern alt-country, hints of folk-rock, and some humor thrown in. 8 p.m. Tickets: $15 advanced, $20 day of show. 402.345.7569. —theslowdown.com
NEVERMIND
June 5 at The Waiting Room Lounge, 6212 Maple St. Grunge rock was synonymous with the 1990s, and no other band was more synonymous with grunge than Nirvana. 8 p.m. Tickets: $10. 402.884.5353. —waitingroomlounge.com
AARON WATSON
June 11 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. Watson has been a name in country music for the past 20 years. In fact, his album The Underdog was the first independent album in the history of country music to top the Billboard Country Albums chart. 8 p.m. Tickets: $22 advanced, $25 day of show. 402.345.7569. —theslowdown.com
LAO TIZER QUARTET
June 19 at The Jewel, 1030 Capitol Ave. Th is jazz band has been called “The missing link between The Dave Matthews Band and Snarky Puppy.” The band includes Tizer himself on keys and Eric Marienthal on saxophone. Note: Th is is a rescheduled show from April 10. Tickets: $25. 917.748.4337. —jewellomaha.com
PETROCK
June 26-27 at Slowdown, 729 N. 14th St. Th is ’70s cover band will perform beloved hits from the 1970s for two nights. Note, the show is a rescheduled one from April. Tickets bought for the original show will be honored. 8:30 p.m. Tickets: $15-$40. 402.345.7569. —theslowdown.com
THE PINK FLAMINGOS ALBUM RELEASE SHOW.
June 27 at Reverb Lounge, 6121 Military Ave. Th is retro band draws on influences from the popular music of the mid-20th Century to modern alt-country. 8 p.m. Tickets: $10. 402.884.5707. —reverblounge.com
AMERICAN AQUARIUM
June 30 at The Waiting Room Lounge, 6212 Maple St. Th is southern-rock band recently released their seventh album, produced by Grammy-nominated singer-songwriter John Fulbright. 8 p.m. Tickets: $10. 402.884.5353. —waitingroomlounge.com
OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR
LOCAL AUTHORS TO CHECK OUT
Ongoing. Several local authors have published books in the last year. Many are available in Kindle edition, some are available on Amazon, still others are available in bookstores. • • • • • • • • • • •
•
Baldwin, James M.M. Do Ants Have Souls? Baker, Lindsey. Th is is Bad Coutley, Lisa Fay. Tether Crucet, Jennine Capo. My Time Among the Whites McGowan, James. The Brigands, Repenter, Players of the Game Book 1, and Repenter, The Hidden Chapters McKinstry-Brown, Sarah. Th is Bright Darkness Montag, Kassandra. After the Flood Stokely, Kim. The Light Unleashed, Portals of Ayden Book 3 Vaughan, Carson. Zoo Nebraska Walker, Sally J. Desert Time, second edition; Learn Genre Film Secrets; Learn Screenwriting; Letting Go of Sacred Th ings, second edition; Meeting People; and A Writer’s Year, second edition Wheeler, Ted. In Our Other Lives
STORIES OF THE PANDEMIC
» Family & More « CSAS AND FARMER’S MARKETS
Gardening season is open in Omaha, and those desiring fresh produce will find plenty of options in the area, along with artisan cheeses, farm-raised meats, freshly baked breads, assorted treats, and craft items. There are several Community Supported Agriculture packages in the area supplying fresh produce through the season. An official list is printed at localharvest.org, but here are some that are ready to offer Omahans fresh produce for a share. Big Muddy Urban Farm —bigmuddyurbanfarm.com Terrapin Acres —Search “Terrapin Acres” on Facebook Theilen Produce Gardens —theilenproduce.com Wenninghoff ’s —wenninghoff.com
Farmer’s Markets are open again starting this month. Here are the times and start dates for the local markets. Attendees are encouraged to check with organizers for availablity before attending any market. • Baxter Arena Parking Lot 26 (2425 S. 67th Street), across from Aksarben Village 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Sundays starting June 7 • Bellevue (Washington Park, 20th and Franklin streets) 8 a.m.-noon Saturdays starting June 13 • Council Bluff s (Bayliss Park, 100 Pearl St.) 4:30-7:30 p.m. Thursdays starting June 11 • Gifford Park (33rd and California streets) 5-8 p.m. Fridays • Old Market, City Parking Garage, Top Level (1011 Jackson Street) 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Saturdays starting June 6 • Papillion (84th and Lincoln streets) 5-8 p.m. Wednesdays • Village Pointe (168th and Dodge streets) 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Saturdays starting June 6
Ongoing. Omahans can be part of communal storytelling about their experience with the coronavirus pandemic. The following museums and libraries are actively collecting related items. Douglas County Historical Society: Photographs —douglascountyhistory.org/share-your-history The Durham Museum: Letters —durhammuseum.org/stories-of-the-pandemic El Museo Latino: Digital images, oral histories and stories of Latinos, Latino-Americans, and Latino immigrants —elmuseolatino.org Great Plains Black History Museum: Artifacts and digital content documenting the African American experience during the pandemic —gpblackhistorymuseum.org History Nebraska: Objects, photos, journal entries, and other media to document the pandemic in Nebraska —history.nebraska.gov Sarpy County Museum: Objects related to Sarpy County —sarpycountymuseum.org UNO Libraries’ Archives and Special Collections: A wide variety of materials from the Omaha community, including journal entries, photos, reflections, interviews, drawings, plays, and other creative forms —library.unomaha.edu/archives UNMC McGoogan Library of Medicine: Campus-wide project for UNMC and Nebraska medicine students, staff, faculty and alumni —unmc.edu/library
JUNE 2020
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OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR
Four Old Market
TESSELLATION ART AT KANEKO
Ongoing. Omahans can be part of a communal artistic expression during this time of seclusion. Whether one is writing a poem, photographing an image of solitude, painting a picture, or more, people are encouraged to take a photograph of themselves creating art and send it to KANEKO, which will be installed as an artwork when possible. —tessellationart.org
OMAHA POTTER FAIRE
Unique décor, ornaments and collectibles for every season. oTannenbaum.com • 402-345-9627
June 6-7 at Bellevue Berry & Pumpkin Ranch, 11001 S. 48th St. Fans of the Harry Potter series will enjoy this event, which includes live owls, costumed characters, vendors, food, and drink (including Butterbeer from The Garbled Owl Butterbeer Shoppe) and children’s activities. 402-331-5500. —omahapotterfaire.com
BLUES & BALLOONS FESTIVAL
June 1 at Soaring Wings Vineyard, 17111 S. 138th St. The annual blues event will feature several musical guests. Visitors are encouraged to bring a chair and blanket to take in the music. A hot air balloon show will follow. 3:30-10 p.m. Admission: $25 adults, $15 ages 12 and up. 402-253-2479. —soaringwingswine.com
Fresh chocolates and fudge made in our own kitchen. OldMarketCandy.com • 402-344-8846
Travel essentials plus souvenirs and Nebraska-made gifts.
VIRTUAL OMAHA SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
OldMarketSundries.com • 402-345-7646
June 6. Those who enjoyed the festival but hated the inconvenience of driving downtown will be pleased to know this popular Omaha event will continue. It won’t be the same, but it promises lots of art. Admission: free. 402-345-5401. —summerarts.org
COUNTRYSIDE VILLAGE ART FAIR Authentic Italian desserts, coffee, and FlavorBurst TMice cream. DolciOldMarket.com • 402-345-8198
All located at 10th & Howard // 12 //
JUNE 2020
June 6-7 at Countryside Village Shopping Center, 8722 Countryside Plaza. The annual fair showcases a mix of styles, perceptions, and media. The artwork selection inspires casual visitors to start art collections and connoisseurs to add to existing collections. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. Admission: free. 402-391-2200. —countryside-village.com
ROSE DAY AND SHOW
June 7 at Lauritzen Gardens, 100 Bancroft St. The Omaha Rose Society is displaying roses to promote the culture and appreciation of this flower. Visitors can view a variety of rose blooms and arrangements, visit with rosarians, and explore the rose garden. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission: $10 adults, $5 children (6-12), free for children under 6. 402-346-4002. —lauritzengardens.org
OMAHA MAGAZINE | EVENTS CALENDAR
108th & Center rockbrookvillage.com
Why Helix is Better Most machines work front-to-back. Why Helix Is Better Why Helix Istradition Better The Helix turns on its side—
literally. With lateral side-to-side) Most machines work(or front-toMost machines front-tomovement, youwork use more muscles, back. The Helix turns tradition on which back. The Helix turns more tradition means you burn fat on than during its side— literally. With lateral its side— literally. With lateral the same a traditional workout—in ( or side-to-side) movement, you ( or side-to-side) movement, you amount of time. Equipment S usetormore muscles, which means ess tn e muscles, which means Fi use more you burn more fat than during a you burn more fat thanYOU during a THANK traditional workout– in the same traditional workout– in the same OMAHA! amount of time. amount of time.
JUNKSTOCK: UNDERNEATH THE STARS
June 19-21 at Sycamore Farms, 1150 River Road Drive, Waterloo. Th is vintage festival offers more than 150 junk and vintage vendors, local food trucks, live music, and activities. 4-11 p.m. Friday, 2-11 p.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday. Admission: $10 per day or $20 full weekend pass, free for children 12 and under. 402-765-8651. —junkstock.com
Full Service
Ha i r, Na i l s a nd S ki n Call today to schedule your appointment
11025 Elm St. / 402.397.7383 / reveomaha.com
POLISH FEST
June 22 at Crescent Moon and Huber-Haus German Bier Hall, 3578 Farnam St. A variety of Polish beers and foods will be available at this festival, including Polish sausage, glombki, and pierogis. noon-11 p.m. Admission: free. 402-345-1708. —beercornerusa.com
FLATLAND JUGGLING FESTIVAL
June 12-14 at UNMC Center for Healthy Living. Th is free event includes juggling, hooping, spinning, yo-yos, and having fun. For more information email jimbre1@aol.com. –– underthecouch.com/flatland
TURNER PARK NIGHT MARKET
June 26 at Turner Park at Midtown Crossing, 3110 Farnam St. This monthly outdoor market features local vendors, food, activities, music, and attractions. 6-10 p.m. Admission: free. 402-557-6006. —midtowncrossing.com
Event times and details are correct as of presstime, but are subject to change. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many events are canceling and/or changing dates/time/ places as needed. Most venues base these decisions on direction by the Douglas County Health Department and Nebraska’s publication of guidance on canceling events and limiting the number of people in public gatherings. Omaha Magazine encourages readers to visit venues' websites and/or calling ahead before attending an event or visiting a museum.
Best of Omaha 2020
VIEW THE 2020 BEST OF OMAHA RESULTS ONLINE! omahamagazine.com/pages/best-of-omaha
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ORY BY LEO ADAM BIWGAIE CZ OR EK ST // E NC MA OR RF PE A+C // DE SI GN BY MATT
PH OTOG RA PH Y BY BI LL
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R E N DIN R E T THEA AGUSA R I S M I T E V I T CREA K OF ART R O ALL-AROUND W A S E O D THING HE Y R E V E S E K A M
S O F TH E TH E TH EA TR IC ID M A E M O H ROOMS AT R A N T D IN IN G A IS EQ U A LLY U S U TA G ES A R IR F S O M H TTI TH E C O N FI N ES R - P LA Y W R IG TO IN C A IS E E H TH S , A N E IA P H IN G S TA G E M A N Y A TH ES W A IT IN G TA B LE S A N D W A S K LI . S EN H C A N D K IT D S M EE T W H EN N O T LO N G M A D E EN V ER A T TH E B O IL ER R O O M . S A H R TO EC M IN G A T D IR ER AY B E P ER FO R M A P O P U LA R S E S H A W E, E IC H V . ER ES D IS H F HOUSE S O S E. H IN G FR O N T O TR E O R TH E R EA C H O R EO G R A P TH N R A EB B LU
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“W
ith his background in acting he could charm any table. It was almost as if dinner service was another performance for him,” said Boiler Room executive chef Tim Nicholson. “[He was] always dressed for the part and ready for the show. He had several regular tables that would come back time and time again to have him make their dining experience special.”
An Omaha Creighton Prep and Creighton University graduate, Siragusa is also a published journalist, essayist, short story writer, and poet. As a visual artist, he’s made internationally exhibited mail art [a populist artistic movement centered on sending small scale works through the postal service], done art photography, and created jewelry.
Before the COVID-19 scare closed restaurants, he worked at Acadian Grille in Dundee. After years going on creative tears and suffering bouts of depression, he’s reassessing. This self-reflective gesture predates the winter-spring health crisis with its quarantine strictures that left many workers unemployed.
“At present, I see myself as someone who has stepped back in order to recharge my batteries,” he said. “I don’t have any paint on my fingers, I closed my studio, I gave away all my drawing pads and tools. I don’t audition. I don’t have a script in my bag, I am strictly taking stuff in right now.” He senses revitalization on the horizon. “Occasionally you’re at crisis points. It means things are going to change really quickly and you better be ready for it,” Siragusa said. Though an extrovert when orchestrating table service or enacting a part on stage, he’s an introvert by nature. “I’m perfectly happy talking to 500 people in telling them a story,” Siragusa said. “In reality, I’d rather just be by myself with a book. The arts life is very isolating. There’s me, and that’s about it.” If nothing else, Siragusa knows himself. Enneagram tests confirm his core traits. “I have high creativity, high intelligence. I’m able to make big decisions and learn things very quickly. I have all these different skills. I’ve been called a chameleon. I can be anything I need to be in an hour.” He chalks up the fact that all that has translated into “low income, low social status” to “how the world works.” While his sarcasm and impulsivity burn bridges, his authenticity and generosity earn the trust of fellow theater geeks and foodies. Teri Fender acted alongside him on Siragusa’s original musical Psychobilly Jamboree.
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“Tim was and is wildly creative and hilariously funny. You never really know what medium Tim will be working in next, but you can always be sure it will be like nothing else you have ever seen,” Fender said. “Mostly, Tim has been a loyal and caring friend.” Former collaborator Jill Anderson calls him “one of the sharpest and most off-the-wall creatives I have ever known.” She admires his “subversive style” and wicked sense of humor. “His presence in a room is similar to that of Oscar Wilde—the celebrated wit of any occasion,” Anderson said. Then there’s Siragusa’s big heart. “If a dishwasher was having a rough go at life,” Nicholson says, “it was not uncommon for Tim to present him new shoes.”
A+C PERFORMANCE // “I’m able to use my theater skills to motivate a crew. A fine-dining table service looks like a dance—everyone’s cooperating and moving in rhythm, silently communicating. I’ve trained a lot of servers. I train them on being attuned to whatever patrons need. “Making diners feel comfortable—have a seat, take a load off—is something constant.” He’s sensitive to the marginal place many food workers occupy. “Some don’t speak English. Some are undocumented. Nobody has insurance. If someone injures himself on the job, you can’t send him to the emergency room for stitches. Not everybody is in work situations where it gets real like that.” Compensating for the long hours is getting paid in cash. “That is addictive,” he said. Flexible schedules allow taking off weeks for a project. Just as most Omaha chefs don’t have the pressure of a national eye on then, he says the same is true for most Omaha artists, “and it’s very freeing.”
“THE SLINGS AND ARROWS OF THE THEATER WORLD OFTEN MEAN NOT GETTING THE GIG, YOU WILL GO INSANE TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHY.” “One of the qualities many arts people have is high empathy,” said Siragusa, who grew up poor and knows firsthand the challenges of working low-wage jobs and hustling for tips. “Some of my favorite people are those who got their GED and had a kid when they were in high school. Those are my tribe.” In his art, Siragusa doesn’t presume being a social conscience. “It is not the artist’s job to tell people how to live their lives,” he said. “A real pitfall is pretending you have received the plate of liberal ideas from the heavens to impart to the masses.” He enjoys the “autonomy” visual art affords, though its creation depends on pricey supplies. Writing is more
economical. “The nice thing about writing is that it doesn’t take a lot of resources,” he says. “You can just do it, and you can put your writing out on the web.” Finding a voice and an audience is another matter. “Writing is one of those things where you have to just keep punching at the wall and hope you break through.” “One of my real passions is supporting the Omaha Public Library. Every month [patrons] can suggest five purchases, and I always go to indie publishers and young writers. If you can give some writer your attention for the span of one short story, then you’re bringing things forward and helping support the arts. That’s important to me.” There is an art to serving food patrons he takes seriously.
“Omaha has something else valuable to artists—abundant, low cost space where you can work, like the Hot Shops, which is a hidden gem. It’s been integral in my identity.” He moved his practice of mixed media-collage mail art from home to there. He hit upon mail art when things slowed in theater. “The slings and arrows of the theater world often mean not getting the gig,” he said, “You will go insane trying to figure out why.” He sent or delivered postcards to theater friends, family, and old college chums. The studio he kept for 16 years served as a salon for art, education, yoga, discussion, rehearsal, chilling out, and community. Siragusa remains here in part due to “the cultural transformation Omaha’s gone through,” adding, “Omaha was not just a boring place to live up until about 15 years ago, but s----y.” He embraces the things that have created a more livable, dynamic burg. In this precarious time, he’s confident he will thrive again. “I know how to tell stories and I can do it at another point when I want to.”
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Photography by Bill Sitzmann // Design by Matt Wieczorek
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// A+C Visual //
Story by Andrea Kszystyniak
y t t e r P a z z i P as a
Beautiful Food is More Than an Instagram Filter
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H
eart-shaped citrus spreads and leafy green salads with fresh arugula, pickled onions, and curly carrots bursting to a bowl’s brim may seem easy to brighten for a film close-up. But behind the most artfully constructed salad is a bit of movie magic.
Sarah Jane Hunt, an Omaha-based food stylist, is behind some of the most artistic looking plates in the Midwest. Her work graces restaurant pages, including Scooter’s Coffee, as well as catalogs and international food campaigns. “I have used cold mashed potatoes to build a salad before,” she said. “It’s like a flower arrangement.” Hunt pushes the leaves into the mashed potatoes much like a florist uses foam when making an arrangement. The potatoes stay hidden, a silent supporting actor. It makes the salad look fresher longer, keeping happy-looking leaves from wilting under hot camera lights. When planning her displays, Hunt often begins with a sketch. Her studio art degree from Missouri’s Columbia College plays a role, helping to construct beautiful colorful pages in her sketchbook. It’s here that she plots out how to best showcase each item of food: the creaminess of a swirl of peanut butter or the stretchy, milky goodness of melted cheese. Before Hunt has a shoot, she will get a list of products that her client would like featured for a recipe. From there, she makes grocery lists based on what she thinks will pair well together.
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There are tricks of the trade that help. When Hunt wants to display the perfect sunny side up egg, say on the top of a breakfast sandwich, her methods are different than those used for cooking a home meal. To prepare, she’ll put the egg in a super hot pan, finessing the edges with toothpicks to get the perfect curl. She then covers it with a dome. When the timing is just right, the yolk still visible and not coated with white, the egg is pulled off the pan and immersed in oil where it is perfectly preserved, frozen in time, until it’s needed. Growing up, food was a family language for Hunt. Her dad worked in the flight kitchen for United Airlines, coordinating with chefs to develop menus for flights, theming dishes around traveler’s destinations. Supper clubs were also a huge part of the family routine; neighbors would come over several times a year and share new flavors from around the globe. Her background in music helps, too. Hunt had initially attended Drury College in Springfield, Missouri, on a music performance scholarship. She compares her process of food construction to that of Russian abstract artist, Wassily Kandinsky. When Kandinsky painted, he listened to music, and that music colored the movements of his brushstrokes. It’s the same with Hunt’s food styling, she said. “I try to create a path for your eye to follow and the movement is musical.” Gavin Peters is a Wichita-based photographer who has worked with Hunt for 15 years. They met working on a Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers campaign. Hunt’s artistic eye adds flair to shoots, he said. “Kind of the difference between a Honda Accord versus a beautiful Ferrari,” he added.
Hunt’s background in the arts makes her a bit of an anomaly in the food styling scene; most people have chef ’s backgrounds, she said. Her job as a food stylist wasn’t necessarily planned, it was more of a coalescence of a lifetime of skills and experiences. After leaving college, Hunt moved back to Omaha to live with her older sister and was looking for work. Director Alexander Payne had just come to town to shoot the movie Election. Hunt landed an interview and received a position in the film’s craft services department, where she was responsible for helping to feed and care for a crew of more than 100 people each day. She described it as “backbreaking work.” On set, Hunt was able to see a food stylist at work, including their creation of the “Pick Flick” cupcakes given out by Reese Witherspoon’s character Tracy Flick, a student body president hopeful. The combination of art and food without the obligation to be on stage excited Hunt. After the movie wrapped and Hunt had a chance to rest, she began assisting food stylists. She amassed experience at Inflight Productions and Conagra but eventually struck out on a solo career. Twenty-three years later, she’s still going and is in high demand for campaigns, big and small. Be it jam, chocolate, turkey, or grapefruit, Hunt’s focus is making the beauty of food the star of the show. “I can be behind the scenes and still be a part of something exciting,” she said. Visit sarahjanehunt.com or on Instagram at @sarahjanehunt for more information.
Be it jam, chocolate, turkey, or grapefruit, Hunt’s focus is making the beauty of food the star of the show.
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“I’M ALL OVER THE PLACE, YOU’RE ALREADY GOING TO LOVE SOME OF WHAT I PLAY, AND THE STUFF YOU DON’T KNOW YOU’LL LOVE AFTER HEARING IT ON THE FLOOR.”
A+C MUSIC // STORY BY SEAN ROBINSON
HEY, MS. D j DJ CRABRANGUCCI ADDS A LITTLE CRUNCH TO THE OMAHA MUSIC SCENE
M
ost people leave sodium-saturated lunches with full bellies. Chalis Bristol left with a new DJ name.
It all started over a plate of Chinese food for the woman who would become known as DJ Crabrangucci. Really nice Chinese food. Five years ago, Bristol found herself aghast over the price of crab Rangoon while brunching in a hipster neighborhood in Scottsdale, Arizona. She remembers an order of the crispy wontons cost $12—even though she can’t recall the name of the restaurant itself. But this wasn’t average crab Rangoon. The perfect mixture of real meat and cream cheese, it was like the luxury brand of Chinese fare. Bristol dubbed the delectable appetizer “crabrangucci,” and her friends decided that would be her new nickname. Deep-fried Gucci-goodness serving as the appetizer of an artist to come. “The name fits because people look for the same thing in music as they do food,” Bristol said. “Both have to bring me to center, bring me home, and make me feel good.”
Photography by Bill Sitzmann // Design by Matt Wieczorek
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// A+C MUSIC //
T
oday, DJ Crabrangucci is a mainstay of the Omaha nightlife scene. She spins better than most of the boys, leading the charge for more rising female DJs.
Contrary to her name, she’s more than just some snack. Crabrangucci brings the full meal to every set—and then some—as she flips between French rap, Korean pop music, Brazilian indie rock, or good old-fashioned Top 40. “I’m all over the place,” Bristol said. “You’re already going to love some of what I play, and the stuff you don’t know you’ll love after hearing it on the floor.” The DJ name may have come from a pricy yet palate-pleasing meal, but the DJ skills were in the works long before that. Bristol grew up in the era of Myspace, so she (like many teens) spent hours on the social media platform avoiding algebra homework by hunting underground artists. Countless CDs were burned, but Bristol (unlike many teens) was intensely focused on how the music flowed from song to song. Meticulous, strategic, and meaningful, she had CD making down to a science.
DJ Crabrangucci is a regular bar hopper now. Catch her at Benson’s The Sydney for a monthly residency, dropping the needle at the Old Market’s popular Bar 415, or north downtown spinning an entire Princethemed night at the Slowdown. “I’m reading the crowd, [I] follow their lead, and then respond to that. That’s what every good DJ should do, no matter the venue,” Bristol said. Being the good DJ that she is, Bristol knows it’s not party time all the time. There’s a commitment to community, too. While she typically shies away from private occasions like weddings, Bristol’s Crabrangucci persona will make an appearance to soundtrack community events for Omaha Girls Rock, the University of Nebraska at Omaha, Yoga Rocks the Park, and more. “Sometimes my job is to warm people up, sometimes it’s to hype people up,” Bristol said. “I like to mix music in the moment. That’s where the creativity and artistry come in.”
“SOMETIMES MY JOB IS TO WARM PEOPLE UP, SOMETIMES IT’S TO HYPE PEOPLE UP. I LIKE TO MIX MUSIC IN THE MOMENT. THAT’S WHERE THE CREATIVITY AND ARTISTRY COME IN.” Then came the raves. Much of Bristol’s Artistry and advocacy go hand in late teen experiences exposed her to hand for Bristol. It’s about more new levels of EDM and the tastethan just creating good times—it’s making DJs whose beats set the scene. about creating a new way of success By her early teens, she was the music in the notoriously male-dominated maven behind every good after-party. world of DJs. The bars closed, but the celebration kept going if Bristol had any say. “As a performer, I have to prove myself, especially as one of few women of “I think I’ve always been a DJ color among a sea of white straight without knowing what I was doing,” men,” Bristol said. Bristol said. However, there’s no shortage of Her first real gig was in the summer successful female talent. Bristol of 2014 at the now closed House of credits global acts such as Peggy Loom. She blasted K-pop through the Gou, The Black Madonna, and sleek nightclub and was invited back Miss Honey Dijon for inf luencing again and again to play her eclectic set her. These women remixed what before the venue closed in 2016. the dance scene looks and sounds
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like. Bristol hopes to do the same for local talent that follows in her footsteps. This techno takeover has already begun. Since Bristol started as a DJ, she has seen the number of girls in the game grow—but there is room to improve. It starts with small acts that make a big impact, which is why Bristol invites other female talent to collaborate and hop behind the turntable with her. “It’s intimidating for a woman to get started in a hobby dominated by men but seeing a few gals in the mix is inspiring” said Maren Saddler, an up-and-coming Omaha DJ who has worked with Bristol. “Crabrangucci has been a role model for me.” It’s the end of February, and both Bristol and Saddler are pumping up the crowd at Omaha Fashion Week. Bristol came to slay in an orange dress accessorized with large DJ headphones—naturally. It’s a packed room that’s about to hear her unique blend of beats. One of her last crowds for a while. Bristol doesn’t know that yet, though. The fight against spreading COVID-19 has yet to close almost every bar and venue in the city. “I went from having five shows in a couple of weeks to none,” Bristol said three weeks after her Omaha Fashion Week set. For now, she recalls that recent glamorous gig—where craft cocktails, models, and f lashy smiles lit up a room to the tune of whatever she was playing—and looks forward to the next time she can get behind the deck. “It’s going to mean more than it did before, everything will,” she said. “When this is all over, the best thing we can do is dance and shake some s--- out.” Follow @djcrabrangucci on social media to find out where she is spinning.
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Quin Slovak stands in front of the Irish Mural on Donohue’s Pub, painted by Rebecca Harrison
TELEGRAM PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK
F E A T U R E // S t o r y B y T i m T r u d e l l
Immigrants Diversify Omaha Food Scene At
They came for jobs with the railroad and the packing houses. Their legacies are the eateries that help define Omaha’s culinary scene.
From By
No.
OFFICE STAMP
immigration story has O maha’s been told through food—from
Irish to Mexican fare. It’s easy to find restaurants here featuring comestibles from around the world. Omaha’s been home to Italian steakhouses in South Omaha, as well as eateries featuring Central American, Middle Eastern, Indian, and Asian cuisine. The city’s newest immigrants have brought recipes to highlight staples from Africa. It seems as though people can find something to eat from every continent but Antarctica, unless the penguins at Omaha’s Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium would like to share some recipes. Omaha has been home to immigrants coming from areas such as Eastern Europe, Asia, western Europe, Central America, and east Africa. Omaha has become a true melting pot over the past 160 years. While there were small pockets of immigrants scattered around the city prior to 1863, immigration took off after President Abraham Lincoln signed the Pacific Railroad Act into law. Attracting a large population of Irish immigrants to help build the transcontinental railroad that had its eastern terminus in Omaha, immigrants and first-generation sons and daughters of immigrants arrived in Omaha. “They were usually ‘second-step’ Irish, meaning they were born in Ireland, but raised in Boston, New York, or Pennsylvania,” said Quin Slovek,
an American history professor at Metropolitan Community College. “It was only about 20 years after the potato famine, so you had people coming to America because of starvation.” Joining the Irish in Omaha around that time were German immigrants. They found their way to the United States, and later, Omaha, because of political rebellion and persecution, Slovek said. Germany’s influence in Omaha was heavy, he said, as new residents built churches and opened several stores. The city had several German-language newspapers, such as the Omaha Tribune and Volkszeitung Tribune, according to the Nebraska Historical Society. Omaha was home to several German-style breweries, such as Storz, Metz, and Krug. Each produced authentic-tasting German beer through prohibition, when they were forced to close or adapt their product. Omaha’s immigration seemed to run in 20-year intervals, Slovek said. Following the Irish and Germans, Eastern Europeans started finding their way to Omaha in the early 1880s. South Omaha was founded in 1886 as a predominately Irish area, but with the growing number of packing houses, the work attracted Polish and Czechoslovakian immigrants, along with people from Lithuania, Hungary, Romania, Greece, and even Syria, he said. Little education was required and language wasn’t a barrier to the packing house jobs, Slovek iterated. JUNE 2020
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ou had tens of thousands of industrial jobs that were relatively high paying and
“Y required little to no education,” he said. “There would be shifts at certain plants that spoke the same language, such as Czech or Polish.”
Neighborhoods grew up around the packing houses and stockyards, such as Brown Park and Scheelytown, Slovek said. In north Omaha, the Irish had a large population in an area known as Gophertown, because of the dugout homes many lived in. While Lithuanians established a small neighborhood in South Omaha, the Lithuanian Bakery has grown to become a popular eatery among Omahans and visitors. Founded by immigrants Vytautas and Stefanjia Mackevicius, the bakery and deli has served the community since 1962. The duo were displaced following World War II and lived in Red Cross camps in Germany after the war ended. They stayed in barracks once used to house Nazi soldiers, said their eldest son, Algird “Al” Mackevicius. The couple met and married while living in the Red Cross camp. Vytautas served from 1946 until 1949 in the British army, posted along the North Sea. The couple applied to emigrate to the United States and were approved as refugees in 1952. St. Anthony’s parish in South Omaha sponsored about 300 Lithuanian families over a three-year period, Al said. As a child, Al, who was born in West Germany, recalls sharing a home with another family after they arrived in Omaha. Vytautas was hired at the Armour packing house in South Omaha. He worked there for about 16 years. Vytautas learned to speak English to help the family succeed in the United States, Al said. His parents were both multi-lingual, with his father speaking Lithuanian, Polish, and German, as well. “My mom could also speak Polish,” Al said. “She learned English by watching soap operas.”
While the neighborhood had a few small Lithuanian markets, there appeared to be a niche for a bakery, so, after having sold goods Stefanjia had baked at home, the family opened the bakery in 1962. Vytautas kept his job with Armour, working his night shift following a full day at the bakery. The family business also featured a small deli. In 1968, when Armour announced it was moving its operation to Sioux City, his father decided to stay in Omaha and dedicate his time to the bakery, Al said. Since the bakery has been open for more than 55 years, it appears to have been a good move, he said. Today, Al and two brothers—Alfonsas and Vytas—run the business. In the early 1900s, Omaha became home to Italian immigrants, Slovek said. Between 1900 and 1910, about 800 Italian immigrants called the city home, creating the area known as Little Italy, he said. “They’re a very cohesive community,” Slovek said. “You have a lot of restaurant owners in that community. They’re also very centrally located downtown. Most of their business community was north of Vinton Street. They were over-represented in the grocery business, the import business.” Joe Patane and his future bride, Nellie Privitera, then in their late teens, emigrated to the United States in 1915. They knew each other from their native area of Sicily, but married after arriving in the United States. During the Italians’ move to the U.S., they had to meet three requirements —know someone here, be healthy, and have $25—granddaughter Nicole Jesse said. “Following World War I, Italy was a poor country,” she said. “Italians suffered a great deal. For a lot of them, it was the only chance for a decent way of life.”
“You had tens of thousands of industrial jobs that were relatively high paying and required little to no education, There would be shifts at certain plants that spoke the same language, such as Czech or Polish.” -Quin Slovek
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Patane, a carpenter by trade, landed a job working with the railroad. He worked there for a few years, before eventually opening his own carpentry business in the basement of the house that would become the site of the original La Casa Pizzaria. During a trip to New York City, Patane became impressed with the pizza being served there. When the Patanes decided to open the pizzeria, it was a new food to Omaha, Jesse said. Known as a steakand-potato town, Omaha’s dining scene was dominated by steakhouses when La Casa Pizzaria opened its doors in 1953. The rectangular-style pizza scored points with diners, and the restaurant ran out of food its first night. “We had steak and chicken, too,” Jesse said. “But pizza was the king.” It continues to lead the way, though today the restaurant also serves classic Italian dishes, including spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmesan, and lasagna. ITALIANS WERE AMONG THE L A S T I M M I G R A N T S O P E N LY WELCOMED TO THE UNITED STATES BEFORE IMMIGR ATION CAME TO A SCREECHING HALT IN 19 2 4 , S L OV E K S A I D . T H AT Y E A R , C O N G R E S S PA S S E D T H E J O H N S O N R E E D A C T, W H I C H S E V E R E LY RESTRICTED IMMIGR ATION. THE L AW ’ S S T R E N G T H WA S C H A L L E N G E D I N T H E L AT E 19 2 0 S W H E N T H E NEED FOR MIGRANT WORKERS B E C A M E A P PA R E N T, H E S A I D .
Despite having a small presence in the city since the late 1800s, the need for migrant workers helped increase the Hispanic population, Slovek said. “The big wave really started in the late ’70s and has been ongoing for 40 years,” Slovek said. While the 24th Street corridor in South Omaha is known for its Latin-American restaurants, Jacobo’s Authentic Mexican Grocery Bakery and Tortilleria has served the area for nearly 50 years. Initially offering items that could not be found at other Omaha groceries, its deli is popular with Latinos and Anglos alike, said Carlos Jacobo, who manages the store near 24th and L streets.
Ramon Jacobo, Carlos’ father, immigrated to the United States from Mexico with his parents as a child. After traveling back and forth to Mexico as a youth, he settled in Chicago for several years, where he owned a small market before deciding to return to Omaha and open Jacobo’s. He believed they could provide the Hispanic community a service that was lacking in Omaha, Carlos said.
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“We provide an opportunity for Anglos who may not have had a relationship with Hispanics,” he said. “They hear people speaking both languages and treating others with respect.” While early immigrants came to Omaha for jobs, some new residents escaped persecution and unsavory political climates. Since about 2000, Omaha has welcomed refugees from several African nations, such as Togo and Sudan. Chaima Moradi escaped political turmoil in her native Togo when she and her then-fiancé, Boubakar Souleman, migrated to the United States in 2002. Now married and parents to four children ranging in age from 16 to 6, Moradi owns Chaima African Cuisine restaurant, as well as a food truck. The restaurant serves traditional dishes from five African nations—Togo, Bemin, Ghana, Nigeria, and Ivory Coast—featuring fried plantains, peanut butter stew, spinach stew, and rice. She sees her business as more than a place to dine; it helps people learn about different cultures. “Food and music are a universal language,” Moradi said. “You easily connect, feel comfortable, and then you ask questions you may not be comfortable asking someone on the street.”
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A Focu s on Thos e Who Serv e You
mann z t i s l by b i l c z o r e k y h p a wie gr P h o t o g n by m at t Desi
FEATURE // Story by Tara Spencer
E a c h i ss u e , t h e s ta f f m e m b e r s a n d w r i t e r s at O m a h a M a ga z i n e d i g d e e p e r . We bring you stories about the people of our city, with the hope that you get to know them and appreciate what they do for our community. This issue was especially it be cool to focus on those who aren’t tough, as June is when always highlighted? we put out our food This epidemic threw a wrench in that. issue. With COVID-19 Most restaurants were either operating with a skeleton crew or just not open. But with closing businesses, the help of our community, we managed to the food and beverage find a group we believe represents several different industry perspectives. industry was one of the first and hardest In this feature, we featured workers in the food and beverage service industry you hit financially. Profit might not normally hear from and some margins for restaurants whose names you likely know. Many have been in the business for decades, others are low to begin for a few months. All were affected. with (typically single We reached out on social media, and the digits). During good response was incredible. Nominations economic times, owning rolled in, and we tried to include those and running a restaurant who were enthusiastically seconded. is a labor of love, and in A few of them we reached out to were economic hardship, it can not able to participate. I would like to mention Henim Stimson of Korean be heartbreaking. Grill and Michelle Von Tersch of Reduced bar and restaurant business means food and beverage distributors lose business, which means brewers, distillers, and farmers are out that business. If a place uses linens, mats, or rugs, the cleaning companies take a hit. And so on. What does that mean for people employed at all those businesses? They are out jobs. They can’t buy food or pay rent, much less go to a doctor. It goes without saying that they can’t afford to buy anything beyond their basic needs, much less shop for luxury items such as books or home goods. This pandemic and subsequent quarantine affects us all, regardless of whether we are fortunate enough to work from home or not. The original plan for this feature developed last year, when associate publisher and photographer Bill Sitzmann and I admired a photo spread featuring sommeliers and well-known wine industry up-and-comers. We thought, wouldn’t
Geno’s Bar & Grill in particular—your customers love you.
We also spoke with people in the industry and asked who they thought deserved recognition. One nominee was Rick Long, who works for Raven Security when he is not busy being a CNA. Long got sick right before we shot this spread, exhibiting symptoms of the coronavirus. Fortunately, it was not. The announcement that restaurants could reopen at 50% capacity also changed things. During the photo shoot, I asked the participants if they knew what their plan was going forward. Decisions were split. Some owners said they planned on testing it out. Others were against it, saying they considered it too dangerous at this time. The overwhelming consensus from the workers was that if they were called on to go back, they would, despite the fact that many were worried not only for their own safety but for their family’s.
Full disclosure, I have worked in the service industry for over 23 years. I am grateful I have my job at the magazine, but at the time of this epidemic, I was still working Friday and Saturday night shifts at Jackson St. Tavern. When my boss asked if I would like to return to work, I said no for two reasons. One, I have this job. I’m not hurting for money in the same way many of my friends and coworkers are. Two, I wouldn’t feel safe. Just writing that makes me feel selfish and privileged, as I have the luxury of making that choice when so many others don’t. The business owners had a near impossible decision to make. One I do not envy. Do they risk trying to ride things out and hope their business survives, or do they bring their employees back to work and risk someone getting the virus? So much of the service industry life is a gamble—every night, we are betting on whether we’ll be able to make rent or pay our gas bill. But money isn’t all they gamble with. They also risk their health. Most don’t have insurance, and if they do, the deductible is likely something they can’t afford. Especially if getting sick means missing even a day of work, as there is rarely paid time off. Many people say things like, why don’t you just get another job? (Some of you just did so, I guarantee it.) For many who choose this work, it’s about the flexibility. For others, it’s about the money. For most, it’s because we truly love it. We may joke about walking out or finally yelling at that one customer who constantly says inappropriate things, but the truth is we’d miss it. We’d miss our favorite customers, like the guy who remembers everyone’s birthday and brings them a present when he comes in. We’d miss our co-workers, who may drive us crazy sometimes, but who we know will always understand when a bad tip hits us especially hard. Some of the greatest people I have ever known I met through either working with or serving them. It’s an incredibly welcoming community, and I, like so many others, can’t wait until we can return to work without worrying if that decision will end up hurting us all. Each participant was emailed four initial questions to answer and at least three other questions we would like to have answered. As Omaha restaurants began to re-open the week before our photo shoot, we asked several of the participants follow-up questions.
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Alzuri Ma nager (of sorts) Spirit World Alzuri, 44, holds a unique title at Spirit World—Liquorpedia (formerly Spirit Guide). “While that may be my title, my role is to manage the store, host the events, and ‘painfully’ taste through all the new items that come in to make sure that we can share that knowledge with staff and customers.” He said he has been in the service industry for most of his life. “Even when I ‘grew up’ and got a ‘real job’ [in technology and network security], I still kept at least one night a week behind a bar because I love it.”
“we had to adjust q u i c k ly to set up online ordering and d e l i v e ry , as well as i n t e ra c t i v e zoom events.”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
He added that he’s worked in several sectors of the industry, “but bars are where I feel most at home.” Though he’s had no formal education in the industry, he said it’s not because he doesn’t believe in their value. “My job has always just put me in a position to sink or swim.” The coronavirus has affected his work and personal life “With trying to grow and adjust to the current needs of customers, my workload has actually increased… we had to adjust quickly to set up online ordering and delivery, as well as interactive zoom events.” This hasn’t gone unnoticed, as his significant other and daughter are now spending more time at home. “Here is an occupation, especially at my level, that my social life is professional,” he said. “We like to joke that I am a professional drinker. Before the current pandemic, I would stand in a room full of people and get to drink with them and share what I know. Now…I spend a lot more time in front of a screen than in front of customers.”
Hugo Sa nchez Ca r don a Chef Ca ddy ’s K itchen & Cock ta il s, T he Sa lt y Dog Ba r & Grill , Ca ddy ’s Pa rk side Grill , a nd Big K el’s P izz a & Wings
“I live in fear of my loved ones g e tt i n g s i c k or myself. Social d i s ta n c i n g is also hard for m e b e ca u s e h av i n g c o n ta c t with the customers is i m p o rta n t . ”
Hugo Sanchez Cardona is a man of many talents and many jobs. The 34-yearold chef works at Caddy’s Kitchen & Cocktails, The Salty Dog Bar & Grill, Caddy’s Parkside Grill, and Big Kel’s Pizza & Wings. He credits both his present employer and a former one with teaching him and allowing him the opportunities to grow. “I wasn’t sure where to start, nor did I have the opportunities until I met people along the way that opened the right doors for me,” he said. “I appreciate the opportunity that chef Deke Reichardt gave me…He took the time to teach me many things and I learned a lot from him. Along the way I also met Brian and Jayme Cadwallader. They believed in me and gave me the opportunity to work for them at their restaurants.” Cardona said the coronavirus has affected him deeply, and in several ways. “I live in fear of my loved ones getting sick or myself,” he said. “Social distancing is also hard for me because having contact with the customers is important. I like to know their thoughts on the food I make. “I have a passion for cooking, and I have an amazing team and my favorite thing about my job is…seeing people leave with the satisfaction on their faces,” Cardona said.
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K a nta Chumphua nghir a n Owner / Oper ator T ha i Stree t F ood (F ormer L aos T ha i Restaur a nt) Kanta Chumphuanghiran, who goes by Joy, took over Laos Thai Restaurant in January 2020. The 28-year-old said she received her associate’s degree at I-TIM Culinary School in Bangkok, Thailand. But most of her experience comes from working in family restaurants.
“I love to cook and love to see whoever is eating my food is enjoying [my cooking] and happy,” she said. After Joy took over, the new restaurant was closed for a few months for renovation. The health department required several changes, including the equipment.
K Ch ant um a a ph n d ua Xe ng n a hi ra n
“ I D E D I CAT E M Y S E L F T O T H I S R E S TAU RA N T A LO T. I CA N N O T G I V E U P, A N D I W O N ’ T. I WA N T X E N A T O B E P R O U D O F M E . I A M A F I G H T E R. ”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
“We had planned to open the business on March 5, 2020,” she said. They were open for little more than a week before they had to shut the doors due to the pandemic. While they couldn’t do a full-on opening, they decided to do takeout and delivery. They were using third parties such as Uber, Doordash, and Grubhub for delivery. However, Joy added, it is not ideal. “We work harder and our expenses are greater, but the profit is less. The cost of [the] delivery fee is way over our budget. But it is better than doing nothing.” Joy has a daughter, Xena (yes, like the warrior princess), who is in kindergarten. For Joy, making the restaurant a success is something she wants to do for her daughter. “I dedicate myself to this restaurant a lot,” she said. “I can not give up, and I won’t. I want Xena to be proud of me. I am a fighter.”
Way ne Dinges Owner / Oper ator Smok in Ba rrel BBQ Wayne Dinges, age 45, has worked in restaurants, hotels, and arenas. Working in those types of corporate environments is not something he misses. The Air Force veteran said he has always been interested in food service and received training from Metropolitan Community College and “life’s hard roads, with lots of mistakes.”
Wayne an d K ar la
D inges
“My favorite thing about my job is interaction with people, seeing people enjoy the food and hearing laughter,” he said. Smoking meat has always been a hobby for Dinges, but now he gets to make it his main gig and full-time passion.
“Since COVID-19, it has slowed down a bit.” While doing takeout, he said they went beyond what the recommendations were, only allowing two people in at a time. He said they tried 10 at first, but it didn’t work out, indicating that people weren’t keeping their distance. “We don’t want to become ground zero for that s---.” In a follow-up interview, Dinges said he did not plan on opening back up on May 4. “We want people back. I think that’s what we miss the most. My biggest mental downfall is we don’t hear the laughter, we don’t hear people happy, we don’t have that interaction,” he said “But in order to get that back, and have it come back stronger, [it’s important] not to have a resurgence.”
“ W E WA N T P E O P L E B AC K . I T H I N K T H AT ’ S W H AT W E M I SS T H E M O S T. MY BIGGEST M E N TA L D O W N FA L L IS WE DON’T HEAR THE LAU G H T E R, WE DON’T HEAR PEOPLE H A P P Y. ”
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A m a nda Q. K eph a rt Ba rtender a nd Ma nager M’s P ub “I have worked at many places,” said Amanda Kephart. “I’ve truly run the gamut, from corporate-owned to small and independent. I’ve done everything you can do...except own one.” She said she has held nearly every position, from dishwashing to managing, even working as a wedding DJ for about a year.
Kephart added that she has taken some culinary classes at Metropolitan Community College, and she’s spent hundreds of hours learning about liquor and wine. “I have a Bachelor of Science in history from UNO and a deep appreciation for the history of food and beverage.”
Since she started in the industry, some aspects of it have changed, such as serving silently. “That [change] was great for me. I’m a talker and boy, do I love a captive audience.”
“I love a restaurant that feels lived in and loved,” Kephart said. “I firmly believe that buildings take on the emotions of what occurs inside of them. And there are so many restaurants in this town that when you walk into them, you can feel the years of love and laughter. “I was employed at M’s when the fire of 2016 occurred, and there are weird echoes of that,” she continued. “The forced unemployment aspect has been extremely hard to come to terms with. Luckily, no one close to me has been taken ill with COVID-19. But everyone I know has had their life impacted.”
“ I WAS E M P LOY E D AT M ’ S WHEN THE FIRE OF 2016 OCCURRED, AND THERE ARE WEIRD ECHOES O F T H AT. ”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
“ I WAS I N A S TAT E OF SHOCK WHEN I FOUND O U T. A L L OF MY INCOME WAS S O L E LY B AS E D ON TIPS, WHILE H AV I N G V E RY LITTLE MONEY IN SAV I N G S . ”
R ya n L a ngenegger Ba rtender T he S y dne y, T he Wa iting Room, a nd Re verb L oung If the name Ryan Langenegger sounds familiar, it’s because he has been in the news before, for defending his friends outside PepperJax in the Old Market. Others might just recognize him from his work in the bar industry around Omaha. The former Marine worked at Brickway Brewery & Distillery, bartending and helping with the brewing and distilling process, before making his way to Benson, where he now works at The Sydney, The Waiting Room, and Reverb Lounge. Like most of his peers, Langenegger enjoys the social aspect of his job, especially having “the ability to be the better part of someone else’s day.” He said he never has to dread going to work. For someone who so thoroughly enjoys his job, not being able to work due to COVID-19 has been tough. “I was in a state of shock when I found out,” he said. “All of my income was solely based on tips, while having very little money in savings.” The one upside is that he has been able to be more active outside, which is a plus for the avid runner. He later added that it has also been nice getting to spend more time with his girlfriend, as they had opposite schedules before, and now she is working from home. He said he’s also been cooking more. “I’m like, a basic ’50s housewife. I cook dinner and clean.” And yes, he sometimes wears an apron.
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Tay l or L ong Ba rback Beerca de Born and raised in North Omaha, Taylor Long said he started working when he was 16. The 28-year-old was working as a barback at Beercade in Benson when the pandemic hit, but his first job was at eCreamery. “When it was time to move on to my next job (fired), I worked at Amsterdam Falafel and Kabob right next door.” After a brief stint in Austin, Texas, where he worked as a busser at a high-end restaurant and a costume store, he moved back to Omaha and started working at Fullhouse Bar as a karaoke host. “I’ve liked to say my time in the industry has been a well-rounded experience and kept me very busy.” Long gave up drinking about a year ago to help “sort out my mental health and priorities.” “This whole last year I felt like I have made tremendous progress and was so excited...I feel like I have taken a couple steps back.” He said it is hard to find a purpose for the day, “when every day is becoming the same.” Communicating with his peers helps. “We are all freaking out in our own ways, but making sure everyone else is okay as well. Ever seen Garden State? It’s like we are all holding hands and yelling into the void together. There’s that. That’s nice.” He is also finding joy in the little things. “I faced all the cans in our fridge the other night at 3 a.m., you know, it felt right. And when I woke up the next morning and grabbed a soda, boy, did it look great.”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
“WE ARE ALL FREAKING OUT IN OUR OWN WAY S , B U T MAKING SURE E V E RYO N E ELSE IS O KAY AS WELL. EVER SEEN GA R D E N S TAT E ? I T ’ S LIKE WE ARE ALL HOLDING HANDS AND YELLING INTO THE VOID T O G E T H E R. THERE’S T H AT. T H AT ’ S NICE.”
Joe Mullin Gener a l Ma nager Mr . T oa d Omaha’s Old Market has been a thriving area for small, local businesses for just over 50 years now, and Mr. Toad has been there since the beginning. While general manager Joe Mullin certainly hasn’t been there since the beginning, (he’s only 40), he has been there since 2002. His face has become familiar to everyone who works in or frequents the Old Market. Like a lot of others in this industry, he doesn’t have any formal training or education, just the knowledge he’s accumulated over the years. And like many others, he is feeling the loss of sharing that knowledge.
“My favorite part of the job is without a doubt the people,” Mullin said. “I enjoy the connections and friendships that I’ve made with not just my coworkers and regulars, but also the people that I might only run across once in this life.” The coronavirus has changed that. “The pandemic has effectively closed my work establishment. Mr. Toad would have been opened and recorded a sale every single day for 50 years this December 26th if it were not for the pandemic.”
Mullin is hopeful. In a follow-up, he said when bars are allowed to reopen, he believes Mr. Toad is set up in a way that would help facilitate social distancing. “Of course, the employees’ health comes first,” he added. “That’s one of the great things about Toads’ ownership…it’s not just about the money.”
“ M R. T OA D W O U L D H AV E B E E N O P E N E D A N D R E C O R D E D A SA L E E V E RY S I N G L E DAY F O R 5 0 Y E A R S THIS DECEMBER 26TH IF IT WERE N O T F O R T H E PA N D E M I C . ” JUNE 2020
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M a r io Mor eno Oliva s Securit y Sulliva n’s Ba r When he’s not working as a quality inspector for Paxton & Vierling Steel, Mario Moreno Olivas spends part of his time working security, something he’s done since 2001. “My training for the role of security was done in 10 minutes by the person who hired me, the day I started. He told me what I had to look for and how to react depending on the situation and the rest is history.” Olivas doesn’t always look like the typical security guy. Friends say he usually dresses in a tucked-in Polo shirt, which has caused some people (OK, it was Adam Flohr) to dub him a “bro.” They quickly change their minds once they get to know him. What Olivas enjoys most about his security job is not kicking people out, despite the reputation a lot of security workers have. “I love meeting new people…we talk about their lifestyle, hobbies, places they visit, things to do, etc.”
“ME NOT BEING ABLE TO WORK AT T H E B A R, I T H AS PU T P R E SS U R E O N ME [IN MUCH] T H E SA M E WAY I T H AS A F F E C T E D OTHERS.”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
If he had the time, and of course, the money, Olivas said he would own his own business—a small shop where he would make art from wood. It would expand on a hobby of his. “I make unique, one-of-a-kind ink pens out of resin and wood.” The pandemic may not have affected his or his family’s health, but it has affected them financially. “I have an older brother that is very ill and not able to work, so I support him and his household financially…me not being able to work at the bar, it has put pressure on me [in much] the same way it has affected others.”
Sa lva dor R obles Ba rtender GI F orum
“ I D O H AV E H O P E T H AT THINGS WILL NORMALIZE AND I THINK OMAHANS T R U LY H AV E B E E N S U P P O RT I N G LO CA L B U S I N E SS E S SO THEY CA N S TAY OPEN.”
“I have only worked in the service industry for one year and a couple of months,” Salvador Robles said. He is also a local musician in a popular mariachi band and a freelance writer who worked at The Reader and El Perico as an associate publisher. His first (and only) service industry job? “I grew up going to the GI Forum, which is a South Omaha staple and right up the street from my house. So when I turned 21, it became my neighborhood bar…I figured when they were hiring, I’d jump the gun finally and apply.” He added that frequenting the bar and restaurant, and knowing the clientele, helped. “We really are a family there, and I think the whole ‘South O,’ big city, smalltown feel really festers at the GI. We rely heavily on our regular customers, and with that we develop many long relationships. My coworkers are honestly close friends and we laugh, work hard, and support each other.” The coronavirus has affected Robles and the GI Forum as it has others. He was laid off on March 12, the same day the CWS was cancelled. He said he thinks the restaurant will survive, thanks to takeout orders and the support of their community. On a personal level, Robles said “I used to pride myself on thinking I would always have a backup gig…my skills have become nullified because of the impact on the service industry,” he said. “I do have hope that things will normalize and I think Omahans truly have been supporting local businesses so they can stay open.”
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Di a mond Simms CEO Emery ’s Ca f e in North Oma ha Simms came to this business in a rather unusual way. At the age of 26, she became a partner in a nightclub. “I did hands on working for six months there, bartending, managing, etc.” She eventually walked away from her shares.
“I’M TAUGHT WHERE THERE’S A PROBLEM, BE A PART OF THE SOLUTION. THAT IS HOW WE CAME ABOUT GIVING BACK TO THE COMMUNITY EVERY WEEK UNTIL THE END OF THE PANDEMIC.”
“After that I took off work for about a year in search of another bar or restaurant.” She found the location that is now home to Emery’s Cafe, which she opened with another partner, her mother, Jackee Welch. “Everything I have learned from the kitchen to the front of the business I have learned working side by side with my mother. “Emery’s Cafe opened in hopes of bringing my family back together and creating a legal hustle to pass down for generations to come,” Simms said. “I think it’ll be awesome to see a restaurant started by my family in our community still here in 10,20,30 years from now.” Simms said for her, being an owner has allowed her the freedom to create a venue that reflects her values. “Emery’s Cafe is a gathering place. We have created a space where people want to linger, we have a built-in group of people who want to enjoy who we are and what we do.” During the coronavirus quarantine, Simms has seen many changes. Her first thought was, “We have to close the doors, we won’t be able to work through this.” After a little thought and time, she and Welch decided it might actually be better to stay open [for carryout]. “I’m taught where there’s a problem, be a part of the solution,” Simms said. “That is how we came about giving back to the community every week until the end of the pandemic. Times are hard, but I have faith things will get greater later.”
FEATURE // the united states of food service
Diamond Simms with mother and co-owner Jackee Welch
“I HAVE AN ILL PARENT AT HOME AND TWO CHILDREN THAT DEPEND ON ME, I HAVE EMPLOYEES WHO ARE LOOKING AT ME FOR SOME ANSWERS…I DON’T KNOW.”
Nin a Sodji Chef a nd Owner Ok r a A f rica n Grill Opening a restaurant right before a pandemic hits would be enough to discourage anyone. But for Nina Sodji, 44, this isn’t the first time she’s encountered an overwhelming obstacle. “I have owned an African market and restaurant before in Omaha, 10 years ago. I moved location and the recession of 2008 happened,” she said. “I filed for bankruptcy and went back to school.” She received a culinary degree from Metropolitan Community College, and a bachelor’s in business management from Bellevue University. She worked as a dietary manager for the last four years while waiting for the opportunity to become a restaurant owner again. Sodji said she discovered that African food in America wasn’t like other cuisines, such as Mexican, Chinese, or Indian, “even though we have a fusion of great flavor and variety of ingredients. So, my mission is to educate about people it.” “My biggest reward is how I make people feel after they eat,” she said. “I love talking to people, I know a lot of them through family ties and just growing up with them and knowing about their lives.” The coronavirus hit hard for Sodji’s restaurant. They opened on March 14, and two days later had to shut down. She had quit her other job just two weeks prior. “I have an ill parent at home and two children that depend on me,” she said. “I have employees who are looking at me for some answers…I don’t know.”
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T im Sohl L ine Cook T he Collins (f ormerly J’s on Jack son) After considering going into CSI and dabbling in animal science, Tim Sohl, 23, decided on a different course. Since he enjoyed cooking, Sohl enrolled in culinary school. “Because at this point, I really just needed to get a degree of some sort and move on with my life.” Now he has worked in several service industry jobs. “I worked at Hy-Vee for four years in the bakery department, but I’ve never been into the sweet side of things.” He started at The Collins in January. They were in the middle of rebranding and reopening when the pandemic hit. During that rather brief period, his work at The Collins gave him the opportunity to have some creative freedom and develop recipes with the head chef. “My favorite part about working at my job is being given certain responsibilities and having my executive chef have confidence in my abilities. I usually never get this kind of praise in anything I do so it’s a very different experience,” Sohl said. “I also like how we all come together as a team to develop new recipes and ideas.” When he’s not cooking at home, he said one of his favorite spots is Ika Ramen in Benson. “When I found that restaurant, I went there every night for like a week and then at least once or twice a week after. It’s so good, best ramen in the city by far. I wouldn’t even bother eating at any other spot.” (He later adds that the new location downtown also puts out “quality food.”) That has come to a stop. “The pandemic has completely shut off any source of income for me, unfortunately. With all restaurants being closed and potential worry of getting the virus, I have chosen to really stick to the social distancing guidelines.”
“THE PANDEMIC HAS COMPLETELY SHUT OFF ANY SOURCE OF INCOME FOR ME, UNFORTUNATELY. WITH ALL RESTAURANTS BEING CLOSED AND POTENTIAL WORRY OF GETTING THE VIRUS, I HAVE CHOSEN TO REALLY STICK TO THE SOCIAL DISTANCING GUIDELINES.” FEATURE // the united states of food service
“I HONESTLY DON’T KNOW WHAT WAS WORSE TO DEAL WITH. ALL THE TREATMENTS I HAVE BEEN THROUGH FOR THE LAST 10 YEARS OR DEALING WITH THE CORONAVIRUS.”
Ca ndi T r oi a Server Brother Sebastia n’s Candi Troia thought she didn’t want to be a server all her life. She started working at Brother Sebastian’s in 1988, and in 1992, she decided to go into real estate. “I got my real estate license but continued to work at Brother Sebastian’s,” she said. “The servers, managers, and the owner were now family to me and I couldn’t leave.” Troia was 32 when she started. She’s now 64. In 2010, she was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer. “As a person that never smoked a cigarette this was quite a blow to me.” At the time, she was living in Kansas City, where two different oncology doctors informed her she only had one year to live. “As you can see, I didn’t listen to those doctors,” she said. “I went to Houston to MD Anderson, where they saved my life.” In 2013, Troia moved back to Omaha to be with her family. She returned to real estate and to Brother Sebastian’s. “I have met so many wonderful people there who I now consider friends,” Troia said. “I have a number of regular customers who request me. They will call or text me to see if I am working and if it’s not my night to work, I will pick up the shift just so I can see them.” In June 2019 her cancer metastasized. “I had a tumor removed from my brain,” she said. Troia is still on the chemo pill Tarceva, and said she will be for the rest of her life. “I honestly don’t know what was worse to deal with. All the treatments I have been through for the last 10 years or dealing with the coronavirus.”
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“ I ’ M WAY M O R E AWA R E O F W H AT I T O U C H N O W. I ’ M A B I G S O C I A L B U T T E R F LY, A N D I T ’ S R E A L LY D I F F I C U LT T O N AV I GAT E A R O U N D T H AT LAC K O F C O N TAC T. ” - A DA M F LO H R Ad
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A da m F l ohr A ssista nt ma nager T he Sports Ha ll
M a ggie Sw e a n y Ba rtender Scrip town Bre wery a nd Ba rry O’s Tavern
Adam Flohr, 34, started his service life at 15 as a busboy at Botticelli’s Ristorante Italiano in Sioux City, Iowa. If you do the math, that means he’s been doing this for 19 years. He’s currently an assistant manager at The Sports Hall in Blackstone.
Maggie (or Margaret, “if I’m in a lot of trouble”) Sweany said she was essentially raised downtown.
His entrance into the service world was “trial by fire.” At 19, Flohr said he was managing a McDonald’s while working part time at HuHot. “After a particularly horrifying table [at HuHot] (you know, that makes you want to walk out the door crying and leave all of your tips) my manager pulled me aside to reassure me,” Flohr said. “According to her, I guess I have that little ‘extra’ it takes to woo people.” He’s been wooing people ever since. “It’s always a wild card in FOH [front of house], new customers are a ‘choose your own adventure.’ Each of them are different,” he said. “It never stops changing.” When he’s allowed to go to restaurants again, Flohr said he’ll be going “Anywhere that has cheeseballs. I’m not a fancy boy.” He admits that when things started shutting down, he panicked at first and stocked up on everything. “I’m way more aware of what I touch now. I’m a big social butterf ly, and it’s really difficult to navigate around that lack of contact.” He said quarantine has had some positives. “I’ve developed a love of making food for others,” Flohr said. “I’ve found a whole new appreciation for Kessler Whiskey… My stretch marks are growing, too.”
“ H O N E S T LY, I T H AS R E A L LY AFFECTED MY ABILITY TO CONNECT WITH OTHERS; WHICH IS WHY I’VE TRIED T O B E M O R E AC T I V E O N L I N E A N D H E L P O T H E R S . I M I SS P E O P L E , F O R AS M U C H AS THEY DRIVE ME NUTS.” - M AG G I E S W E A N Y
“I was born at Julio’s in the Old Market (shout out to my favorite, Jerry.) I then went on to Jackson Street Tavern to work for chef Deke (also an absolute favorite; I will call you dad until the end of time.)” Scriptown Brewery has been her main gig for three years now. “John Fahrer is easily one of the kindest hearts I’ve ever worked for,” she said. The Old Market has a strong pull, though, and she also picked up a bartending gig at Barry O’s Tavern. “I’ve been extremely fortunate to work for Barry and Judy [O’Halloran], who opened the place in ’84 and have been going strong since. When you’re here, you’re family!” She said college was never a plan for her, and the hospitality industry was fun and an incredible networking opportunity. “I have met so many wonderful people and I wouldn’t trade it for the world…Humans. Learning them, watching them, teaching them. I miss hearing the stupid, silly things about everyone’s day to day.” During the coronavirus, she said she’s spent most of her time pacing. “Honestly, it has really affected my ability to connect with others; which is why I’ve tried to be more active online and help others. I miss people, for as much as they drive me nuts.” She said she is also very into Animal Crossing now. “Add me. I’ll make you an axe.”
the united states of food service // FEATURE
R a echel Va n Busk ir k Gener a l Ma nager WestEnd Cock ta il s & A ppe tizers For Raechel Van Buskirk, her favorite part of her job is having a constant creative outlet. “I really enjoy experimenting with different event ideas, drinks, and food,” she said. Van Buskirk is the general manager at WestEnd Cocktails & Appetizers. She is also the owner of The Deviled Egg Company, and has done some private consulting on the side. “I have 16 years of experience with everything from hosting/bussing, cooking, management, event planning, catering, project development and consulting.” All this experience was born out of necessity. “We struggled financially growing up with a single mom,” Van Buskirk said. “I was very young and needed to work. At the time, Village Inn was the only place that would hire a 14-year-old kid.” She moved on to various different bars and restaurants. At 22, she decided the service industry was going to be her career, and took a management position in Houston, Texas. Now that she’s back in Omaha, she seeks out establishments where everybody knows your name. “I truly believe that culture is everything and employees are the most valuable asset a business can have.” Though she is currently unemployed “like the rest of Omaha,” she is trying to find a silver lining. “To be honest, it has been humbling and a great opportunity to focus on future endeavors and, of course, resulted in some much-needed family time.”
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“ T O B E H O N E S T, I T H AS B E E N HUMBLING A N D A G R E AT O P P O RT U N I T Y T O FOCUS ON FUTURE E N D E AV O R S AND, OF COURSE, R E S U LT E D I N S O M E MUCH-NEEDED FA M I LY T I M E . ”
Dustin V r a n a K itchen Ma nager Spezia on 72nd Stree t Dustin Vrana, 37, was nominated by former coworker Lynnsey Lyden through Facebook messenger, and roundly seconded by Spezia’s event coordinator, Wendy Becker, who wrote: “He is the BEST I’ve ever seen at sauté. He can run 12 burners; it’s kinda ridiculous!” It’s no wonder he’s a wiz, considering he has been cooking since age 11. “My interest started when I began making pizza from scratch with my uncle. It progressed from there.” Vrana has worked at Harrah’s Casino, Colton’s Wood Fire Grill, Kona Grill, Omaha Prime, Omaha Field Club, and Bebo’s. He said his favorite part of the job is, well, everything.
“What I like most about my job is the employees, cooking, purchasing, inventory, and satisfying guests. I enjoy the logistics of a restaurant and I have grown quite fond of multitasking.” He adds that he rarely dines out, because he finds preparing his own meals so gratifying. However, it’s doubtful that cooking for himself at home is satisfying his passion.
“I’m slightly a workaholic and used to working 50 hours a week. Waking up and having no place to be is a big change of pace. I have only missed three days of work in the last 15 years and have only been on one vacation during this time period,” adding in a followup interview, “Even when I broke my rib, I showed up to work.” Hopefully, his hobbies help him stay busy. “I’ve been frequently kayaking, biking, walking my two dogs, flying my stunt kite and drone, jogging, playing tennis, frisbee golf, and cooking more from scratch,” he said. “I’ve been building a privacy fence at home, which is important because staying productive and the sense of accomplishment is mentally healthy.”
“I’M S L I G H T LY A W O R KA H O L I C AND USED TO WORKING 50 HOURS A WEEK. WA K I N G U P A N D H AV I N G N O P LAC E TO BE IS A BIG CHANGE O F PAC E . ” the united states of food service // FEATURE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK
GEN-O // STORY BY ERIN WALTER
M I S E
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How Lauryn Niemants Discovered Her Passion Cooking is an art that encompasses Lauryn Niemants’ entire being. “Mise en place” is a culinary term that means “everything in its place.” It is the preparation and assembly of ingredients, pans, utensils, plates, and everything needed for a particular dish or service period. It is a fundamental rule of the culinary arts. At 19 years old, Niemants is a “garmo,” or garde manger, at Dundee’s Baela Rose and a commis with Culinary Team Nebraska, Metropolitan Community College’s competitive culinary team. She describes “mise en place” as more than just the prep of the physical aspects of the kitchen. It is also the prep of the chef ’s mind. It is making sure that her mind is clear so that she’s ready to focus on what needs to be done.
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When she’s cooking, her mental state is equally as important as the physical prep of her ingredients. If something isn’t mentally right, she can’t be 100%.
“It’s the idea that everything has to be put in its place, everything has to be measured out, every part of [myself ] has to be calm to then go into the kitchen and approach cooking like an art and not like I’m just going to throw some things in a pot,” Niemants said. An Omaha native and Central High graduate, Niemants, a self-proclaimed theater nerd in high school, originally decided to study vocal performance at the University of South Dakota in Vermillion. After a year, she decided to come home and start fresh. “I wasn’t very happy in Vermillion,” Niemants said. “I decided that it was just not at all where I needed to be, and I completely did a 180.” Upon returning home, she started working at Cupcake Omaha, where she fell further in love with baking. She also returned to her high school job as a hostess and waitress at Baela Rose before she had the opportunity to take her talents to their kitchen. When she realized that Omaha is home to one of the best culinary programs in the United States, she thought to herself, “You know what? Let’s give this a shot.” “I just kind of fell head over heels,” Niemants said. She is currently in the Culinary Arts and Management program at MCC. After she completes this degree, she plans to immediately start working toward a Hospitality and Restaurant Management degree, which is another program that MCC offers through their Institute for Culinary Arts.
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“I care for my ingredients as well as I care for my tools and myself while cooking.” —Lauryn Niemants MCC’s culinary program has given Niemants a love for food in a way that she never imagined possible. “As somebody who started from basically nothing in the culinary industry, they’ve kind of given me everything,” she said. “I care for my ingredients as well as I care for my tools and myself while cooking. I think that I’ve just been given the passion, in general, that the instructors show you as a student, as someone that they want to see grow and learn and see you succeed. I think that I’ve been given that passion.” Niemants is taking advantage of every resource she can at MCC. As a commis, or junior chef, with Culinary Team Nebraska, she is there to help out with everything that happens behind the scenes before and during practices and competition. During a typical practice week, she spends all her time “mise en placing,” measuring everything out, and getting timelines together so that everything can be as close to perfect as possible for their 11-hour practice session over the weekend. As the vice president of Tri Omega, a culinary-focused organization led by MCC students, Niemants organizes opportunities for her peers to gain industry experience that they can carry into their career. Niemants and her peers named Tri Omega after Omega3, the vitamin that is found in fish.
From these activities, she has gained somewhat of a second family within culinary school. “I have such a tight knit group of people,” Niemants said. “We are spending all week doing everything together; they are my best friends in the entire world.” It was her first family, though, that gave Niemants her foundation in the kitchen. Her mom showed her how to cook well on the stove, her stepmom introduced her to the art of baking, and her dad, like most suburban dads, she said, was always “king of the grill.” As a garde manger at Baela Rose, Niemants makes all of their bread and does work on small plates like salads, desserts, and appetizers. “I feel like I truly fell in love with food when I started working back-of-house at Baela Rose,” she said. “I saw that food could be a piece of artwork on a plate, not just like family style, served up at a table.” “I like [my food] to be bright—I like working a lot with acidity, I like things to be colorful,” Niemants said. “My personality is somewhat bright and outgoing, and I feel like my food kind of comes off that way, too.”
Niemants and her peers named Tri Omega after Omega3, the vitamin that is found in fish.
Dream
Dental work is a when you can sleep through it! Baela Rose closed its doors on March 19 because of the COVID-19 pandemic. “We figured that if V.Mertz and Boiler Room are closing down, it was probably the right thing to do,” Niemants said. MCC has transitioned to online classes, and the regional competition for Culinary Team Nebraska was canceled, along with all of the events that Niemants had planned for Tri Omega.
You will wake up refreshed with all your dental work completed. A dream come true!
Despite everything, she is hopeful for the future. “I’m trying to approach it with more of an open mind,” Niemants said. “By going into it thinking, ‘Oh, everything is ruined now,’ that’s not doing anybody any good.”
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Niemants has been finding online fundraisers organized by celebrity chefs to raise money for people who worked in the culinary business and lost their jobs because of the pandemic. “I’ve been sending those out to all my friends,” she said. “It’s little things like that that are important. It’s really awesome. I’m just trying to keep going.” Visit mccneb.edu for more information.
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JUNE 2020
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GIVING
CALENDAR JUNE 2 0 2 0
FEATURED EVENT
June 4 (10:30 a.m.-4 p.m.)
TEE IT UP FORE SIGHT GOLF TOURNAMENT outlookne.org
This annual golf tournament benefits Outlook Enrichment programs such as teen scuba diving classes to adaptive technology training. A backup date of Aug. 13 has been secured if the June 4 date is not feasible. Location: Indian Creek Golf Course June 1 (11 a.m.-4 p.m.) 2019 GOLF FORE GRANTS Benefiting: Elkhorn Public Schools Foundation Location: Champions Run Golf Course —elkhornfoundation.org June 4 (6-9 p.m.) 2020 SPICE DINNER Benefiting: Christ the King Educational Trust Location: Christ the King Parish Center —ctkomaha.org June 6 (9 a.m.-noon) TAKE STEPS FOR CROHN’S & COLITIS Benefiting: Crohn’s & Colitis Foundation of America Location: Werner Park —online.crohnscolitisfoundation.org
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JUNE 2020
June 6 (6:30-10 p.m.) OLLIE’S DREAM GALA Benefiting: Ollie Webb Center Location: Downtown Hilton —olliewebbinc.org
June 7 (7:30 a.m.-5 p.m.) TEE OFF AND SUPPORT WHEELCHAIR SPORTS ANNUAL GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Paralyzed Veterans of America Great Plains Chapter Location: Tiburon Golf Club —greatplainspva.org June 7 (Noon-6 p.m.) OMAHA NORTH HIGH SCHOOL ANNUAL GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Omaha North High School Foundation Location: Shoreline Golf Course —omahanorthhighschoolfoundation.com June 7 (noon-1 p.m.) MEET & GREET AT BOOKWORM Benefiting: Golden Retriever Rescue in Nebraska Location: The Bookworm —grrin.org
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SPONSORED CONTENT
“I hear every day that people become more active and can now reach their fitness or weight loss goals after vein treatment.” -Dr. Kelly Schroeder
June 9 (10 a.m.-5 p.m.) GOLF INVITATIONAL Benefiting: Project Harmony Location: Indian Creek Golf Course —projectharmony.com
hen one hears the words “vein disease,” they may not be thinking of something as common as varicose veins, swollen ankles, bulging veins, and restless legs. But W this is the misconception VENUS Vein is attempting to dispel. Dr. Kelly Schroeder, a
board-certified vein and lymphatic specialist, is attempting to combat the myths that vein disease happens when someone wears heels too often, or as an inevitability of aging.
June 10 (10:30 a.m.-6 p.m.) 2020 OMAHA HOME FOR BOYS GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Omaha Home for Boys Location: Tiburon Golf Club —omahahomeforboys.org June 10 (5:30-8:30 p.m.) HOPS FOR HARMONY Benefiting: Project Harmony Location: Werner Park —projectharmony.com
“Vein disease is easily treatable, covered by medical insurance, and requires no downtime or sedation,” said Dr. Schroeder, adding, “At VENUS Vein Clinic we dispel the myth that people must live with achy, swollen, or discolored legs. We strive to make the treatment process as comfortable as possible.” VENUS Vein Clinic stands out in the Omaha metro area as the only vein clinic run by a board-certified vein and lymphatic specialist. Dr. Schroeder’s passion is to develop an individual treatment plan that is just right for you. “You will feel better and be able to go right back to activities,” Dr. Schroeder said. VENUS Vein helps teachers, mail carriers, and more. Dr. Schroeder loves knowing that after treatment they can perform their jobs better, sleep better, and live healthier lifestyles by addressing the root cause of symptoms like restless legs. “I hear every day that people become more active and can now reach their fitness or weight loss goals after vein treatment,” said Dr. Schroeder. “They no longer have heaviness in their legs during the day or restless legs that keep them from sleeping at night. Life is changed for the better.”
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JUNE 2020
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// GIVING CALENDAR //
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June 11 (noon-1 p.m.) THE TRIBUTE TO WOMEN LUNCHEON Benefiting: Women’s Center for Advancement Location: Marriott Downtown at the Capitol District —wcaomaha.org
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June 12 (10 a.m.-7 p.m.) (no info on times) 30TH ANNUAL GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Millard Public Schools Foundation Location: Tiburon Golf Club —mpsfoundation.org June 13 (12:30-7 p.m.) [1:30 tee time] DOOLIN CLASSIC Benefiting: Grief ’s Journey Location: Eagle Hills Golf Course —griefsjourney.org
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JUNE 2020
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June 14 (9 a.m.-4 p.m.) 52ND ANNUAL MUNROE-MEYER GUILD GARDEN WALK Benefiting: Munroe-Meyer Institute Location: locations vary —unmc.edu/mmi June 17 (10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.) WALKRITE FOR RITECARE Benefiting: UNMC Munroe-Meyer Institute’s RiteCare Speech & Language Clinic Location: Pacific Springs Golf Course —scottishriteomaha.org
Thanks Omaha for over 30 Years! June 18 (7 a.m.-3:30 p.m.) 20TH ANNUAL RELEASE MINISTRIES BILL ELLETT MEMORIAL GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: Release Ministries Location: Iron Horse Golf Club —releaseministries.org June 20 (all day) THE LONGEST DAY, AN INDIVIDUALIZED FUNDRAISER Benefiting: Alzheimer’s Association Location: donor’s choice —act.alz.org
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June 23 (3 p.m.-5 p.m.) I BE BLACK GIRL PRESENTS: AIN’T I A WOMAN CELEBRATION Benefiting: I Be Black Girl Giving Circle, Women’s Fund of Omaha Location: Seventy Five North —omahawomensfund.org June 26 (11 a.m.-4 p.m.) GOLF CLASSIC Benefiting: ALS in the Heartland Location: Tiburon Golf Club —alsintheheartland.org
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COUNSELING CONNECTIONS & ASSOCIATES
INTRODUCING VIRTUAL SESSIONS
June 26 (6-9 p.m.) “STRIKE A CHORD” GALA Benefiting: Heartland Family Service Location: Mid-America Center —heartlandfamilyservice.org June 28 (noon-6 p.m.) 2020 GOLF TOURNAMENT Benefiting: Habitat for Humanity of Sarpy County Location: Tara Hills Golf Course —hfhsarpy.org Event times and details June change.
Visit omahamagazine.com for complete listings. Check with venue or event organizer to confirm.
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JUNE 2020
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FOR FIVE DECADES AND COUNTING, BELLEVUE UNIVERSITY CONTINUES TO SERVE MILITARY MEMBERS, VETERANS AND THEIR FAMILIES BELLEVUE UNIVERSITY’S MILITARY HISTORY SPANS 55 YEARS. It all started in 1965 when William V. “Bill” Brooks, a businessman and World War II hero, brought a proposal to launch a college in Bellevue, Nebraska, to a June dinner meeting with the Bellevue Chamber of Commerce, which the membership enthusiastically endorsed. By 1967, the college saw its first class of students graduate and by 1994 the school was renamed to Bellevue University. A lot has changed at the institution in the last five decades, but one thing remains the same: Bellevue University is committed to serving military students and families, veterans and active-duty members. Bellevue University currently has seven national affiliated partnerships, which most recently include with the Joint Special Operations University and National Cryptologic School. The school also has four base education partnerships, including: Offutt Air Force Base in Bellevue, Nebraska, Fairchild Air Force Base in Spokane, Washington, Mountain Home Air Force Base near Boise, Idaho and Hurlburt Field Air Force Base near Pensacola, Florida.
“Having partnerships with these institutions means we’re able to offer all of our programs to prospective military students, but also to the employees and their spouses, whether they are civilian or military,” Stanley Hawkins, retired United States Air Force and Assistant Director Military Programs, said. “These partnerships give prospective students access to a quality online education, which is especially convenient for those serving in the military.” Bellevue University is also home to the Military Veteran Services Center (MVSC), 2108 Harvell Circle, which has served over 15,000 veterans since it opened in 2013, said JR Richardson, retired United States Air Force Senior Master Sgt., who directs the center.
Bellevue University also offers classes on base to active duty members, veterans and their spouses in order to support the Offutt Air Force Base community. “There are many benefits of offering classes on base,” Scott Kizzire, retired United States Air Force and Assistant Vice President of Enrollment Management, said. “Active duty military members can travel straight from work to their class in uniform. Military members also have communicated they are more confident, relaxed and are culturally accepted in an on-base environment rather than traveling to an off-campus location.” Bellevue University was founded by the military and continues to be here for the military today.
The nearly 6,000-square foot freestanding center has one mission: Provide education services and resources to active-duty military and veterans. The MVSC currently has more than 10 partnerships with local non-profit military organizations, including: Guitars for Veterans, Air Force Sergeants Association, Project Healing Waters and more.
“We have been helping service members transition to civilian life for over 50 years,” Richardson said. “We understand the needs of America’s Armed Forces and we’re here to help them as best we can by offering accredited accelerated degree programs, reduced tuition rates and support from beginning to end during their time at Bellevue University.”
“Today, Bellevue is here for the military because we continuously seek ways to serve them,” Richardson said. He added that the military center serves all veterans and active duty military, regardless of their circumstances.
For more information about Bellevue University and its military services, visit bellevue.edu/prospective-students/military/
JUNE 2020
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T’S JUNE - and here at Omaha Magazine,
that means it’s our annual food issue.
We have several articles about interesting people over the age of 60 in this issue. Our Active Living subject is Phil McEvoy, an avid deer hunter. He is also a friendly guy, and he will invite anyone he meets to hunt with him during the fall deer season. The feature is about entrepreneur Gary Rohwer. Many people know him as the former owner of PepperJax restaurants, but in recent years, he has taken on a new venture known as Glenn Valley Foods. This company offers beef, chicken, and pork products to customers from restaurant chains to grocery stores. Some products are available directly to consumers. In recent years, there has been a wave of lowcarbohydrate, high-fat diets touted on TV and in books. Many medical professionals, however, still recommend a Mediterraneanstyle diet to help avoid Type 2 diabetes and heart disease. This diet concentrates on fruits, vegetables, and whole grains, and it includes less fat and meat than some of the more trendy diets found today. Our health article explains why this diet is still recommended by the medical community. The past few years have seen several popular restaurants close. Classic comfort-food places like Petrow’s were beloved by many in the area for years, while others such as Sushi Japan Yakiniku Boy were more recent. The Nostalgia article this round highlights several that Omahans were sad to see close over the past few years. This summer will be a bit different, with the loss of festivals, fairs, and baseball games, but there is still plenty of fun summer food available. Take time to enjoy all that the season has to offer—whether that is ice cream, watermelon, or homemade lemonade.
Contributing Editor
Phil McEvoy JUNE 2020 • 60PLUS
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Friendship Woods the
in
HUNTING GAME EQUALS MEMORIES, MEAT, AND AMIABILITY ACTIVE LIVING // STORY BY PATRICK MCGEE PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY DEREK JOY
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// ACTIVE LIVING //
“If it had not been for hunting, we [Horton and McEvoy] would still just be neighbors waving at each other.” -Horton
I
WAS SITTING IN a scrubby tree on a fence
line, overlooking an alfalfa line. Before legal shooting time [30 minutes before sunrise], I saw a deer a couple of hundred yards away in the alfalfa. I’m looking at my watch and looking at the deer…looking at my watch and the deer...” recounted Phil McEvoy, a retiree and an avid hunter. “Then, just after legal shooting time, the deer stepped right in front of me-about 12 yards away. He fell right there.”
McEvoy has been an avid hunter most of his life. He began harvesting deer as a young man in the mid-1970s with his father and brothers. Now, age 67, he continues taking an annual trip to the Boyd County farm where he, his nephew, and his neighbor harvest deer, and have done so for 28 consecutive years. In those years the land changed hands. McEvoy pursued a relationship with the current owners, in part to keep the tradition going. He feels bonded to the land, and so he is bonded to its custodians. “We’ve become friends,” he says. “We talk about our families.” McEvoy enjoys bringing them gifts to show his gratitude.
there is little cell service, no internet, and no TV. McEvoy said it’s “back to the way it was 25 years ago or longer.” “So you sit and you talk with people,” he said with an air of nostalgia and appreciation. Willy Horton, 56, McEvoy’s neighbor and one of his frequent hunting partners, shared McEvoy’s sentiment that hunting with others creates friendships. “It’s a good way to get to know someone,” he said. “You get to know people when all you have to do is talk-talk about the hunt, talk about everything,” he said. “You get to know [your friends’] kids. “If it had not been for hunting, we [Horton and McEvoy] would still just be neighbors waving at each other,” Horton said. He said hunting has been the catalyst for other friendships he has made as well. McEvoy loves introducing others to the outdoors and to their hunting party, and will teach anyone to hunt. Horton said that’s how he began hunting as well. Now, “I’ve been hunting with McEvoy for 15 years.” McEvoy said that deer hunting allows him to appreciate the outdoors. He relishes in the stark quiet of the woods. There are no disturbances. One is alone with his thoughts and there is peace-except for the occasional woodland denizen: a rummaging turkey or coyote, or a curious fox or eagle, McEvoy said. It is transcendental.
To McEvoy, hunting is about friendship as much as anything. Every year, he and his hunting party-regularly consisting of his nephew and neighbor-sleep in a small cabin near the Missouri River. Every year, he looks forward to spending this quality time with them. “We always fix breakfast together,” he said of each morning, adding that they split up during daytime hunting hours. In the evenings, he said, “we sit around the cabin talking about hunting, talking about life, and the different things we’ve done over the year.” He continued, “they have your full attention and you have theirs,” noting that
Horton agreed, saying it doesn’t matter if he even harvests a deer. A hunt is a success when it gets him outdoors. “It’s relaxing,” he says. Watching wildlife is a highlight of the entire experience. Even if he “fills his tags” [harvests the legal limit of deer], he likes to spend time driving around to take in the scenery.
McEvoy said that deer hunting allows him to appreciate the outdoors. He relishes in the stark quiet of the woods. There are no disturbances."
Hunting is not all relaxation, McEvoy said. He describes hiking over untamed landscapes to reach a destination from which he can stalk deer. “The walk into the woods,” he said, “can be 200-300 yards from the truck.” He said he could walk a couple hundred yards more, but due to his age and physical condition, he prefers not to. He describes the hike as “moderately labor-intensive.”
“The real work begins,” he said, “when you actually drop a deer and have to field dress it and get it into your truck.” Field dressing a deer requires precision, skill, and muscle. This involves rolling the deer. “You want to field dress them as soon as possible,” McEvoy said, explaining that it inhibits bacterial growth. McEvoy said field dressing entails slitting open the deer’s abdomen and removing the organs within. The deer must also be lifted into the truck bed. Often, he says, deer must be dragged out. “Bucks are easier to drag because the antlers make a nice handle to hold onto,” McEvoy said. Practicing marksmanship in advance may be leisurely from time-to-time, but it is also essential to successfully harvesting deer. “You want to practice so you can make a clean kill,” McEvoy said. “I’ve been lucky that most of my deer, especially lately, have dropped when I shot them.” He said if they are not dead when a hunter approaches, the deer may run or kick, and a buck might ram the hunter with its antlers. McEvoy practices shooting at an outdoor range once a month. His years of practice add up. “I can hit a target at 300 yards,” he said, “but I wouldn’t want to shoot a deer out that far-they start looking pretty small in your rifle scope that far out.” Knowing when to shoot for a clean kill is respectful, ethical, and humane. It goes without saying that McEvoy is a skilled and ethical hunter. He has been fortunate enough to harvest four deer annually in recent years and eats venison nearly every day. He respects the land whose deer he harvests, and he enjoys teaching others to appreciate nature through deer hunting. Even more than the enjoyment of nature, McEvoy’s hunting stories are replete with stories of friendship and gratitude for those with whom he spends quality time with friends and family. For McEvoy, hunting would be incomplete without this aspect of the hunt. Horton reciprocates the feeling. “I thank Phil every year for allowing me to go hunting with him,” Horton said.
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HEALTH // STORY BY JENNA GABRIAL GALLAGHER // DESIGN & ILLUSTRATION BY DEREK JOY
THE
Mediterranean a y!)
S r e v e (N
AN AGE-OLD APPROACH TO EATING AND LIFESTYLE
DIE-T
O
first things to understand about the Mediterranean diet-which has long been touted by experts as a way to decrease the risks of chronic illnesses and increase longevity-is that it’s not a really a diet at all. Unlike many trendy eating regimens with best-selling books, daily menu plans, and dedicated online communities that users pay to subscribe to, the Mediterranean diet is really just a set of guidelines. NE OF THE
“Basically, the Mediterranean diet is an eating pattern based on extensive research that’s been done on the people who live in the Mediterranean region, what they eat, and their lifestyle,” said Martha Nepper, Ph.D., RDN, LMNT, CDE, of Methodist Center for Diabetes and Nutritional Health. The registered dietitian continued, “It really emphasizes an increase in plant-based foods and fruits and vegetables, non-refined grains, fewer fatty meats, more fish, and foods with Omega 3 fatty acids, along with staying physically active throughout the day.” “It’s mainly about eating close to nature, instead of (eating) a lot of processed foods or foods high in saturated fats and sugar, which cause inflammation,” said Elicia Briggs, certified nutritionist at Nutrition Pros in Midtown and West Omaha, adding that inflammation raises the risk of heart disease, stroke, diabetes, certain types of cancer, and even Parkinson’s and dementia. “Even if you’re genetically predisposed to some of these chronic conditions, adopting a Mediterranean diet can help you not express them as readily. It’s a lot more effective than just hoping and praying. Plus, it helps with anxiety and depression, better sleep, and just clearing away the clouds so you have less brain fog.”
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While they’d love everyone to be lifelong adherents to this style of eating, Nepper and Briggs agree that it’s never too late to start. In fact, even for older adults some benefits start to become apparent within the first week. “My oldest client is 75 years old,” Briggs said. “After her husband passed away, she found that she was eating a whole sleeve of crackers without even realizing she was doing it. But as soon as she started eating an anti-inflammatory diet, her energy got better and she felt happier. Over time, she lost 30 pounds, but compared to the health benefits, that’s just a happy side effect.” “There’s no time like the present,” Nepper said, although she recommends that older adults, especially those who are already following a restricted diet, seek the assistance of a registered dietician before getting started. “Start small, even if it’s just having a piece of fruit and glass of milk before a meal and replacing your regular dessert with fruit, and then you can build up. An improved diet and active lifestyle will improve your quality of life and your chances for a more successful recovery if you do get sick.” Both she and Briggs stress the importance of staying physically and socially active as well. “One of the things that will kill us most quickly is just sitting,” Briggs said. “You don’t have to do CrossFit, but you do need to move most days of the week, if not every day. Also, keep connecting to the outside world. Ask a friend out to lunch. And if you can’t do that, listen to a podcast or FaceTime with someone. Eat nutrientrich food about 80-90% of the time, but don’t get too stressed about the numbers. The fun stuff has its place once or twice a week. The biggest thing that I tell my clients is to enjoy the balance.”
NOSTALGIA // STORY BY RYAN BORCHERS // DESIGN & ILLUSTRATION BY DEREK JOY
TASTE ASTES S to REMEMBER Reminisces of Shut t ered Omaha Restaurant s
T
HERE’S A PARTICULAR kind of sadness that comes from watching a great restaurant go out of business.
It’s no secret that Omaha has become a more foodie-friendly town in this century. Eateries to satisfy all manner of appetites seem to pop up every month. Still, nothing can match that one place where they season the burgers just right, or where a couple had the best anniversary dinner of their lives, or where a person can eat comfort food after a long, tough day.
Omaha has seen many places like that close down in the last five years. Here are five Omaha Magazine chose to highlight. Piccolo’s Being one of Warren Buffett’s favorite restaurants wasn’t enough to save this classic Italian steakhouse, which served its final customers on Dec. 31, 2015, after 81 years in business. Originally called Piccolo Pete’s Restaurant, it was founded by Sicilian immigrant Joseph Piccolo. It was famous for Italian dishes and a host of other offerings, but the prime rib was the most popular item on the menu. The building retains its notable neon sign shaped like a piccolo player. Inside, it had the oak paneling and low lighting typical of a midcentury fancy restaurant, as well as a huge crystal ball over what used to be the dance floor. Fortunately, not all is lost. Scott Sheehan, who would have been a third-generation owner if Piccolo’s had stayed open, still has the old recipes. You can sample the former restaurant’s wares at his mobile food truck, Anthony Piccolo’s Mobile Venue. Sushi Japan Yakiniku Boy Blue Sushi Sake Grill is probably the first restaurant Omahans think about when they think about sushi, but in 2015 The Omaha World-Herald crowned West Omaha hole-inthe-wall Sushi Japan as the metro area’s best place for sushi.
The intimate dining room made for a quiet and relaxing spot to enjoy a meal. The menu was chef ’s choice, and the fish was always fresh. Standout dishes, according to The World-Herald, included the rainbow roll and yellow nigiri. Unfortunately, the restaurant closed after 18 years when the owners, Yoshimasa and Yoshie Mizuno, decided to retire in April 2019. The month previous, their daughter Tamae succumbed to cancer. Soon after, chef Arturo Ramos also passed away due to cancer. Petrow’s The Petrow family had a long run in business in Nebraska, beginning in Fremont in 1903 when Nick and John Petrow started Petrow’s Fremont Candy Kitchen. Nick opened Petrow’s at 60th and Center streets in 1950 as a drive-in, and it stayed in business until December 2019. Nick Petrow, the grandson of the aforementioned Nick, and his wife, Michelle, decided then to retire. Petrow’s was an Omaha institution, racking up several awards over the years. It was named a Best of Omaha winner by the public as recently as 2018. They specialized in dinerstyle food, with some of its most popular dishes including the pork tenderloin sandwich, hot roast beef sandwich, and waffles. The biggest star, though, was the ice cream, handmade from a recipe that was over 115 years old. The clown sundae, with vanilla and chocolate ice cream, chocolate and marshmallow topping, spanish peanuts and an upside-down waffle cone, was a favorite. Amato’s Cafe and Catering Amato’s definitely didn’t go out of business for lack of exposure. It sat in the now-bustling Aksarben Village, ran plenty of radio ads, and was featured on episodes of the popular television shows Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives and Man v. Food.
The food was certainly popular, too, particularly the pancakes infused with ricotta and the homemade Italian sausage. Alas, it closed up shop in 2019 for the simple reason that Ann Amato elected to retire, about two years after her husband and co-owner Sam passed away. Sam started the business, contrary to the modern trend, as a food truck and served classic Italian food to Omaha for over 45 years. A much-admired figure among regular patrons, he loved talking with customers and famously invited them to “put your elbows on the table and laugh out loud.” Bohemian Cafe Of all the restaurants on this list, the Bohemian Cafe was probably the most unique. It was founded by Czech immigrant Louis Macala in 1924 and, despite a few location changes, stayed on 13th Street throughout its run. At the time of its closing, Terry Kapoun was a third-generation owner, his grandparents having purchased the restaurant in 1959, and his brother Ron was the head chef. The Bohemian Cafe was a much-loved institution of Omaha’s Czech, Bohemian, and Polish communities, a place where you could eat genuine Czech fare and where the staff dressed in traditional Czech outfits. The boiled beef with dill gravy was a beloved dish, as was the liver dumpling soup. You could get homemade apple strudel and kolaches, too. The restaurant’s legacy lives on, however. Infusion Little Bohemia Beer Hall occupies the cafe’s former spot. Visitors can go there and still see the Bohemian Cafe’s entryway doors, hand-painted tiles, and neon sign.
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Veteran Food Magnet FEATURE // STORY BY LEO ADAM BIGA // PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY DEREK JOY
Gary Rohwer’s Glenn Valley Foods
S
ERIAL ENTREPRENEUR
Gary Rohwer seizes opportunities. He sizes up markets, recognizes gaps, and devotes resources to filling them. It’s why he succeeded in the fields of music promotion, farming, hosiery and steel grain bin before settling on business such as restaurants, meat processing, and food service.
His latest venture, Glenn Valley Foods, is the culmination of his decades of food industry expertise and innovation. Glenn Valley produces a line of specially sliced and portioned beef, chicken, and pork products designed for quick meal preparation in commercial food service and home consumer settings. It also produces and markets complete meal packages. Rohwer’s made several fortunes by fixing on market niches and bringing his business acumen to bear on them. “I’m always looking for opportunities,” he said. “When something comes up, I just pounce on it. I seem to enjoy it and have fun with it. Plus, I like to strategize, analyze and visualize. And I love getting people involved—helping them grow. That’s probably what really, truly excites me. It’s not so much the money, it’s the challenge. Just moving on and challenging myself and others, and having a good time working with people.” Exuding the energy of someone half his age, Rohwer ascribes his vibrancy to being passionate about what he does. “It’s that passion that creates the energy and gives you the can-do attitude you can make it happen.” The Omaha native traces his first entrepreneurial endeavor to his junior and senior years at then-Omaha University, where he studied marketing. He bartended at a venue whose owner couldn’t make a go of the ballroom. Rohwer cashrented the space and made it a popular event room featuring live bands. A semester short of graduating, he quit school to manage a 100-acre farm his father owned north of Omaha. He’d made enough as a music promoter-event booker to buy farm equipment. He enjoyed the challenge, but the land’s thick clay soil proved unproductive. “I fought that for a number of years and loved it, but I was struggling. So I started to look for other opportunities.”
>
JUNE 2020 • 60PLUS
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W
HEN A GIRLFRIEND REMARKED
she couldn’t find a one-size fits-all pantyhose locally, it sparked his next adventure.
“I checked into it and made a trip back to New York City. All the hosiery companies were headquartered in the Empire State Building. I cut a deal and brought one-sized pantyhose to the market here through a company I started-Garland Hosiery.” His next career move responded to a glut of grain storage when he struck a deal with a steel manufacturer to erect steel grain bins and grain handling systems under his own Mark-Rite Steel Systems. “I did extremely well. That was a helluva run.” He hit upon what’s become his primary business when, he said, “I took an interest in the restaurant industry. I wondered what that would be like. I looked at it, studied it.” He took the plunge after being introduced to a Philly cheesesteak sandwich at a failing Lincoln restaurant—Chartroose Caboose. “I’d never even seen a cheesesteak sandwich before. I tried it and I thought, boy, what a sandwich.” Rohwer purchased the company in 1981. “That’s the first time I ever bought a company. Five years later we were in five states.” He sold the chain for a profit. That set the stage for creating PepperJax Grill in 2000. In between, he and a University of Nebraska researcher developed the perfect Philly steak. He patented a method of slicing portioning meat. He marketed Steak-EZE to the food service industry. He opened his own processing plant to handle orders. He built it into a $28 million business before selling in 1998 to Advance Foods. He then tried retirement. “That was the worst time of my life,” he said. “Then I came up with a concept using my SteakEZE product—PepperJax Grill.” This fast-casual eatery features made-to-order fare. He dedicated himself to creating “the world’s best Philly cheesesteak sandwich.” “I did a lot research on that sandwich. I made several trips to Philadelphia, checking everything out.” He tabbed a third generation South Philly Italian bakery to make the ideal bun. “It took two years getting it just right. it was worth it. It really helped my sales.” PepperJax became a top 100 restaurant chain per trade industry measures. “Every day we challenged ourselves to get better,” he said. “We had a dream and a vision to be the best.” // 72 //
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In a life of always “moving on from one thing to another,” he said, he hasn’t thought of a succession plan. “Maybe it’s because I don’t want to think about it.” The successful venture was bought by private equity company TA Associates in 2016. Making a mint was nice, but, Rohwer said, “the destination is not nearly as fun as the journey.” “That journey is one I’ll never forget.” Greg Cutchall, president and CEO of Cutchall Management Co., admires Rohwer’s “great success story.” “He’s a very talented businessman. We worked together on a joint venture a few years ago to combo a Burger Star and a PepperJax at the new outlet mall. Landlord would not agree to the terms Gary asked for. I went ahead without him and lived to regret it. Smart man Gary is. A real empire builder. I would partner with Gary anytime going forward.” Rohwer formed Glenn Valley Foods in 2008. Since selling off PepperJax, it’s become his full focus. Glenn Valley produces a 1.0 version of Steak-EZE—Gary’s QuickSteak. The brand’s growth led Rohwer to open a new 50,000-square-foot facility last year at 68th and J streets. It employs 100-plus workers. Glenn Valley is diversified across three divisions-retail (grocery stores and big box stores), military (bases-installations) and food service (mostly large restaurant chains). “We’re presently in about 5,000 grocery stores,” he said. ”We’re trying to take it into every state in the country and create a national brand at the retail level.” He’s in talks with the Kroger supermarket chain as well as with Target, Walmart, and other large box stores where food is sold. Glenn Valley also does co-packing for King’s Command Foods, a manufacturer of portion-controlled, pre-cooked, and readyto-cook meat products to foodservice and retail segments.
Though the COVID-19 pandemic is hurting his food service division, Rohwer said “the retail is just incredible—the demand is high,” adding, “The military is going up. So diversification is nice.” “I use his products in my catering division. High quality and priced right,” Cutchall said. Rohwer is still driven by the same things as when he started. “I have a passion for success. To me, it’s like a game. You challenge your employees and you challenge yourself to win the game, and when you win the game, it’s success.” Rohwer also likes being a David going against Goliath. “The thing I’m proudest of is that I have been able to compete all along the way with mega companies. My edge comes from the people and the product I have, the value we bring to the marketplace, and how we bring it.” Quality equates to value in his world. His peers recognized it when they inducted him in the Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame in 2017. “To have the success with a winning team is the ultimate,” he said. “You can’t do it yourself. It’s impossible.” His trust of the team he’s gathered around him is such that he and wife Linda go away for weeks at a time to their lake house in Minnesota, leaving the company in the capable hands of staff. “Everybody knows our objectives and how to get there,” he said. In a life of always “moving on from one thing to another,” he said he hasn’t thought of a succession plan. “Maybe it’s because I don’t want to think about it.” For Rohwer, there may be new challenges to run with yet. “I’ve often wondered how much fun it would be to have a large cattle ranch out in Montana, Colorado, Wyoming,” he said. “Maybe that’s what I’m going to do next, I don’t know.” Whatever’s next, it’s imperative he derives joy from it. “That is the real definition of success. When people chase the buck, they never get it. But, boy, when they chase their passion … It’s amazing how that works.” Visit glennvalleyfoods.com for more information.
OBVIOUSLY OMAHA // STORY BY ERIN WALTER // PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTED
01
PIQUING ONE’S INTEREST, AND APPETITE
Six Interesting Appetizers in Omaha
As their name implies, the main function of appetizers is to whet the appetite of diners for the meal that will follow. While there’s nothing wrong with serving classic appetizers like chips and salsa or crackers with cheese, there are a few restaurants in Omaha that have gotten culinarily creative and taken the art of the appetizer to a deliciously different level.
01. DUCK DUCK GOOSE FRIES AT BLOCK 16 1611 FARNAM ST. | 402.342.1220 Block 16 is taking street food to new heights with an ever-changing, unique menu. They always use fresh, locally sourced ingredients to make their meals. Block 16 is popular among many for their mouthwatering spins on fries. The Duck Duck Goose Fries are at the pinnacle of this popularity, and they are anything but ordinary. This basket is piled high with duck confit, crispy skin, cheese, duck-fat mayo, and gooseberry gastrique. Price: $5.50
02. PB&J WINGS AT SICKIES GARAGE
BURGERS & BREWS
1203 CORNHUSKER ROAD, BELLEVUE 531.999.3352 PB&J Wings means exactly that—peanut butter and grape jelly mixed into a sauce into which chicken wings are tossed. A newer restaurant in Omaha, Sickies Garage evokes a grease-monkey vibe while supplying diners with enough drinks to satisfy a Pink Lady or a Greaser. Those unsure about trying this childhood favorite on chicken can order as few as 6 wings in their choice of boneless or traditional, but the online reviews point to more people going for larger orders, and as they serve up to 20 wings, they can satisfy the hungriest of snackers. Price: $8.99-$22.99
03. GOAT CHEESE PEPPADEWS
AT PITCH PIZZERIA
DUNDEE: 5021 UNDERWOOD AVE. 402.590.2625 WEST OMAHA: 17808 BURKE ST. 402.289.4096 The peppadew is a sweet, slightly spicy South African pepper. At Pitch Pizzeria, they stuff their peppadews with creamy goat cheese and serve them atop a bed of baby greens with a basil pesto vinaigrette. The appetizer is complete with a drizzle of balsamic reduction. The unusual peppadew dish makes for a tasty start to any entrée at Pitch. Price: $10
02
04. BUFFALO CAULIFLOWER BITES
AT J. COCO
5203 LEAVENWORTH ST. 402.884.2626 Eating lighter or sticking to a vegetarian diet does not mean a diner needs to miss out on their favorite foods. This take on Buffalo wings at J. Coco is spicy and meaty, but without the excess fat and calories. They even come with blue cheese sauce and pickled celery to evoke the experience of eating wings. Price: $9
03
05. LOBSTER HUSH PUPPIES AT RAILCAR 1814 N. 144TH ST. 402.493.4743 Railcar Modern American Kitchen specializes in the classic American dining experience. Their menu takes creative spins on several traditional dishes. Among the items on their starters menu, diners can find the Lobster Hush Puppies. These are far from the average hush puppy—they are made with bacon, lobster, tomato, and green onion, and topped with a bright, creamy harissa aioli. The plate comes with 5 perfectly fluffy pups ready to be shared among the table. Price: $16
06. CLOTHESLINE BACON AT THE WEST
04
05
END OMAHA
1529 S. 203RD ST., SUITE 1 402.502.1884 The West End Omaha serves more than typical bar food. An order of crisp roasted brussel sprouts and meatballs on their own would make a meal to go with their signature drinks. But the standout here is the miniature clothesline to which thick cut sriracha honey bacon strips are pinned over half sour/vinegar pickles, allowing the extra fat to drip onto them. Price: $14
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JUNE 2020
Photography by Bill Sitzmann · Design by Matt Wieczorek
Mo~sI
A -
Eloquent Language ADVENTURE Story by Lisa Lukecart
One Couple Nerds Out Over Food
Chris Larkin bit into the crunchy shell of a grilled scorpion. The slightly salty, nutty flavor reminded him of a large shelled sunflower seed. Eating the arachnid whole supposedly makes men virile and strong. Malin Plaza bustled with energy as he chewed the protein. Vendors sold souvenirs, clothing, and accessories. The aromatic air promised the exotic spices of Thailand. So Larkin, along with fiancée Linda Sue Lichtenwalter, had eyes only for the rich spread of street food, succulent duck, and rolled ice cream. Lichtenwalter, a vegetarian, couldn’t get enough of the fresh fruit. After peeling the tough purple skin, she sank her teeth into the white sugary flesh of mangosteen. Her fiancée opted for the thorn-covered durian, quite possibly the most foul-smelling fruit around. Larkin pulled out a segment of the pale-yellow flesh and tasted something similar to a creamy brie cheese. He just couldn’t get over that smell.
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2020
· ADVENTURE ·
“Feet and death,” Larkin recalled. Larkin, 39, plans on waiting another 10 years before touching durian again, but the memories he has made with his future wife make it all worth it. The couple bonded on their first date over their mutual love of food. That connection has grown stronger after traveling together around the globe these past four and a half years. “If you travel together and don’t want to hurt each other by the end of it, she’s probably the one,” he said, laughing.
On their trips, each dive into dishes based on their respective businesses. Lichtenwalter, 36, opened a private baking business aptly named The Pie Fairy. During her years working as a pastry chef at Modern Love, a “mythical fairy” made pies before any of the staff arrived. She adopted the nickname, creating classic comfort desserts. Her signature item, Fat Elvis, became a delight for vegan lovers. The Fat Elvis is a peanut butter custard nestled in a graham cracker crust with a chocolate ganache top. The surprise twist is the coconut “bacon.” Lichtenwalter keeps this part of her recipe a secret, but it mimics the flavor of bacon, adding a smoky flavor to the pie. Larkin, meanwhile, opened a mobile pop-up, The Crepe Beyond. He graduated from The Texas Culinary Academy where he developed an interest in expanding his palate. He has worked in the food industry for 15 years, opening as a chef and sous-chef for Nite Owl and Mula. But Larkin saw a lack of pop-up businesses in Omaha. The crepe offered him a blank canvas, a way to push the boundaries of food. Larkin believes a dish should be 70% familiar, 20% surprising, and 10% scary. Inspired by the documentary, McQueen [based on the life of designer Alexander McQueen], he once created a chocolate-covered coneshaped crepe, filling it with Nutella, chocolate-covered espresso beans, and a tobacco flavored crème which was then bruleed and topped with a candy cigarette. The entire crepe tasted, you guessed it, like coffee and cigarettes. His motto is food should be delicious, sustainable, fun, and help others. One dollar from each crepe sold is donated to a local nonprofit. In 2019, the couple did a pop-up tour together that ran from April to October. Over $2,000 aided Benson First Friday, Youth Emergency Services, Great Plains Black History Museum, and Omaha Girls Rock. “It’s great they try new flavors and adapt that to what their audience and fans want. It makes them stand out,” explained Melissa Wurth, the executive director of Omaha Girls Rock. Some of these ideas spring from food travel adventures…or misadventures. For example, the duo became lost for hours in Central Park on their first trip together to New York City in 2016. Luckily, the exhausted tourists found a cute little spot, Park West Café and Deli, that served some of the best Turkish coffee.
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“Now that I have a good travel partner, I do my research in advance and have certain tools for tracking down good food in any neighborhood,” Lichtenwalter said. Whether sipping straight from a coconut in Phuket, Thailand, or eating Peruvian food at Andina Shoreditch in London, these “food nerds” consume the scrumptious journey. Paris, though, stood out as an educational and eye-opening experience. Lichtenwalter spent over a hundred dollars in Le Patisserie du Meurice, the establishment of celebrated pastry chef Cedric Grolet. She brought back chocolate from Paris to re-create a pain au, or chocolate bread. The baker honed her skills on croissants, ensuring the airy and flakey style mirrored her experience in France. Larkin shows his excitement in a photo, light blue eyes wide, as he stares at an enormous crepe from Elo Jazz stuffed with ham, Emmental cheese, and a fried egg. Larkin “steals with his eyes” by watching street vendors to learn about their use of ingredients, timing, and techniques. “You read about specific chefs going after a signature dish. I want to see the trick,” Larkin explained. “That’s how I make my decision, show me your thing, and the weirdest thing you got.”
"It's great they try new flavors and adapt that to what their audience and fans want. It makes them stand out" - Melissa Wurth, Executive Director of Omaha Girls Rock Larkin had another secret up his sleeve during that trip to the city of love. After asking for her mother’s permission, he sneaked Lichtenwalter’s great-grandmother’s ring into his bags. He proposed to her at the top of the Eiffel Tower at the end of March 2019. “A pie fairy needed a fairy tale engagement,” he added. “I’m fortunate to live with the only person that I would want to travel the world with.” This past year, the now-engaged couple traveled to Vietnam. Farmer’s markets became a popular destination. On the street, vendors laid out baskets of bananas, cabbage, and tomatoes. And when dining in casual settings, it is traditional to consume a meal familystyle. They wolfed down morning glory (greens usually stir-fried with fish, soy, or oyster sauce), egg soup, and Vietnamese omelets. Or lunch might mean a classic bánh mì sandwich chock-full of pork pate, citrusy cilantro, pickled carrots, and spicy mayo. The sandwich, made with an airy baguette, was born out of war and famine. “Food tells a story,” Larkin said. “Traveling is important to understand other areas of the world and cultures. We can learn so many beautiful things we can experience only by exploring, understanding the local produce, or a new type of cuisine,” Lichtenwalter said, later adding that while she still abstains from eating meat while abroad, she does make some concessions. "I know several dishes likely had fish sauce or might have used fish stock, as that is a staple in Asian cuisines. But I wasn't going to be a finicky ass---- tourist."
The opportunity to stay with a family and have a home-cooked meal meant immersing themselves further into someone else’s world. The two feasted on fresh chicken, raised by the family, with rice noodles and a flavorful broth. The thin hot sauce contained chilis, rice vinegar, and oil. “You could smell just how much time, effort, and love got put into it,” Larkin said. “Food is a language, a more eloquent language than the spoken word.”
Larkin lamented the fact people will miss out on experiences like these due to COVID-19. The illness caused restaurants to shut down. It caused them to be unable to continue with their small businesses, and they cannot work their jobs at Jake’s Cigars and Spirits. “My first thought, in addition to the bottom dropping out, is we took for granted the time where we could sit together across the table and be united with food,” Larkin said. It hasn’t stopped the two from dreaming of destinations to explore later. They still hope to marry under the Northern Lights in Iceland sometime next year with immediate family and friends. Lichtenwalter isn’t sure yet if she will make her own wedding cake for a possible reception in town for industry friends. “Just a warning to the city of Omaha. We will have a lot of staff members get that day off,” Larkin joked. Visit @lindathepiefairy and @thecrepebeyond on Facebook to learn more about these businesses.
JUNE 2020
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“I’M LIKE, ‘HOLY F---,’ I’M I N A TH R EE-STAR M ICH ELI N KITCH EN, AN D [H E] I S BAS ICALLY HAN DI NG M E A PI ECE OF FI S H FOR MY FUTU R E.”
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DINING PROFILE // STORY BY CH R I S BOWLI NG PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOS H UA FOO // DES IGN BY MATT WI ECZOR EK
FINE DINING AROUND THE WORLD ALWAYS COMES BACK TO OMAHA H
ums and honks filled the morning air as traffic inched through the heart of the largest city in America.
“It’s a city that I’m always proud to say I was born and raised in,” Johnson said, “and I’d love to come back and have a restaurant someday.”
Inside, Austin Johnson waited patiently. He’d traveled 3,000 miles and trained for years. Soon he’d see if the greatest chef in this city would give him a job. Eventually that man appeared. In a Swiss accent, the chef with short brown hair told him he had a test, handing him a piece of bass. Then 23 years old, Johnson came recommended to Daniel Humm, head chef of Eleven Park Madison and recipient of that year’s James Beard Award for Best Chef New York. But what Humm wanted to see was if he could cook.
Johnson grew up on 168th and Q streets in a family that valued work ethic. Either go to college or make your own way. Johnson didn’t see how he fit into that picture. By the time he entered Millard West High School during the turn of millennium, he felt aimless.
A RENOWNED CHEF'S I NTE R-CONTI N E NTAL C U LI NARY JO U R N EY
“I’m like, ‘Holy f---,’” Johnson remembered more than a decade later. “I’m in a three-star Michelin kitchen, big lights, white tablecloth on the pass, and Daniel Humm is basically handing me a piece of fish for my future.” Johnson didn’t balk. He seared the Loup de Mer and plated it with poached parsnips and pears in front of Humm and the whole kitchen. He earned his spot. That experience, although elevated, was typical for Johnson’s life. For years he’d climbed his way through the culinary world, working in kitchens across the country. A few years later he’d do the same in Europe before returning to New York to start his own restaurant.
At 14, Johnson got a part-time job busing tables at the Back Nine Grill in West Omaha. As the TV broadcasted George Bush and Al Gore behind the bar, Johnson watched the kitchen. There, line cooks cussed at each other across the flat-top as they sautéed vegetables and garnished the rims of plates with parsley. He’d never seen energy, excitement, and purpose like that. He begged the chef to teach him.
The next few years Johnson consumed as much of the culinary world as Omaha had to offer, working at Biaggi’s, Buca di Beppo, the French Cafe, among others. During that time, he fed a growing appetite for how to run a kitchen and make a dish great. At Millard West, he also spent most of his time cooking. Beiting, then the high school’s culinary teacher, had him in class from his sophomore to senior years and took him and others to state and national culinary competitions.
But as the now-34-year old ponders what’s ahead during site walks of his soon-to-be venture in Tribeca, part of him always looks back. Toward home, the place it all started: Omaha.
JUNE
“I don’t want to say he was lost, I think he just wasn’t very motivated,” said Kate Beiting, who taught him as a high school freshman. “If you’re not interested in anything, why would you be?”
continued on pg.93
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2020
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL SITZMANN // DESIGN BY MATT WIECZOREK
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DINING PROFILE // STORY BY VIRGINIA KATHRYN GALLNER
LOVING SOMETHING MORE ISN’T JUST FOR AMATEURS
O
n a typical day at Amateur Coffee, there might be a student working on digital drawings on one side of the bar and another experimenting with charcoal pencils. Many creatives gather in the parlor at the edge of the Joslyn Castle neighborhood and around the corner from Lisa’s Radial Café for coffee and camaraderie.
The owners, Jasmyn and Jacob Wichert, are artists in their own right. Jasmyn does all of the graphic design work for their shop and roastery. Jacob is a musician and member of indie rock band Bokr Tov. Throughout the parlor’s first two years, they have had several musicians on staff, including Nate Van Fleet of See Through Dresses and Heather Hottman of the Hottman Sisters, as well as a filmmaker and a writer. In 2012, Jasmyn was working as a barista in the Old Market, and Jacob was studying philosophy. He met Matt McCrary, the owner of Muglife Coffee, and fell in love with coffee culture. Often, people come to coffee because they are talented in other areas, he said, and coffee offer a safe environment for self-expression. “Coffee is something you can never get bored with, because there’s so much to know,” Jasmyn said. That love of coffee led them to start roasting at home. During their first few years exploring the industry, they took a lot of trips to Kansas City and other nearby cities to see the thriving culture around coffee. What sets them apart, though, is that their shop is entirely vegan. Jacob grew up in a standard Nebraska meat-and-potatoes family. When Jasmyn
was young (around middle or high school, though she wasn’t sure which), she chose to become vegetarian. Her parents followed in her footsteps. The day that Jacob decided to go vegan, she asked if their coffee shop— which, at the time, was a dream project— could also follow her lifestyle. For Jasmyn, it’s all about values. “How can we provide an excellent specialty coffee experience without hurting animals?” Jacob remarked that “it was scary, but it was a decision that felt right.” In a town known for steak, coffee lovers have been very supportive of this all-vegan parlor. The word of mouth has spread to the coasts as well, with people traveling from east and west looking for vegan breakfast options. People looking to learn about coffee culture reach out to Amateur now, just as Jasmyn and Jacob did when they were starting. In late 2018, they developed a sustainable option for to-go orders, replacing paper cups with whimsically designed glass jars. When patrons return the "to-go cups," they can refill or receive a one-dollar refund (useable, as noted on their social media, toward the cost of a banana). Balancing their work and creative lives has been a seamless process, for the most part. Jacob described one recent morning: waking up before the sun to record music, eat breakfast, and open the parlor. “You’ve got to fight for it if you want it,” he said. As an artist, Jasmyn takes a playful approach to her coffee designs. She wanted them to reflect the story and personality of every roast, striving for a whimsical experience “like a coloring book.”
JASMYN FIRMLY BELIEVES IT HAS BEEN WORTH THE RISK OF INTRODUCING AN ALL-VEGAN COFFEE PARLOR TO A MEAT-AND-POTATOES STATE.
Some of the art reflects the places where their coffee is served. Modern Love, the allvegan restaurant in Midtown Crossing that has gained international fame, has its own signature blend, as well as Saddle Creek Breakfast Club and Vala’s Pumpkin Patch. Jasmyn said their partnership with the pumpkin patch has been a dream come true. “Vala’s is such a part of Nebraska culture,” she said. “[Now] we can support each other.” Their community partnerships go beyond coffee. They source herbal and caffeinated blends from local business Artemis Teas. Some of the drinks showcase tea blends, such as the Lady London Fog, which focuses on rose instead of the typical lavender. Katina Talley Foster, owner of Sweet Magnolias Bake Shop, is happy to call Amateur Coffee business neighbors and pastry partners. “Developing vegan recipes for Amateur’s menu has been a personal favorite project of mine,” Foster said. “It’s important to me to create vegan products that are just as mouthwatering and indulgent as the traditional items in my own shop.” Having studied food science at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Foster enjoys the challenge. “I’ve loved learning the science behind baking with various nondairy fats and milks and egg replacers and which combinations give me the specific product attributes I’m hoping for,” she said. “It allows me to stretch my artistic muscles.” The Wicherts started Amateur Coffee as a reflection of their values. Jasmyn firmly believes it has been worth the risk of introducing an all-vegan coffee parlor to a meat-and-potatoes state. “We only have one life to live,” she said. “You’ve got to give what you’re good at.” Visit amateurcoffee.com for more information.
JUNE 2020
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- Sponsored Content -
Omaha
DINING GUIDE AMERICAN CHARLESTON’S - $$$
140th and Dodge streets - 402.431.0023 76th and Dodge streets - 402.991.0055 Charleston’s is a casual, upbeat restaurant with a menu filled with dishes prepared from scratch daily. We focus on providing our guests with excellent prices and selecting the highest quality ingredients. Whether you are new to Charleston’s or a long-standing guest, we look forward to seeing you soon! —charlestons.com/locations
LISA’S RADIAL CAFE - $
817 N. 40th St. - 402-551-2176
American. Cafe. Diner. Vegetarian-friendly. Gluten-free options. This old-school diner serves hearty portions of American comfort classics for breakfast and lunch. Family-owned and operated. This business is a must if you’re in the area. People rave about our chickenfried steak, stuffed French toast, coffee, and friendly staff. Monday-Friday 6 a.m.-2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 7 a.m.-2 p.m
5021 Underwood Ave. Omaha, NE 402-590-2625
17808 Burke St. Omaha, NE 402-289-4096
6350 E. Thomas RD. Scottsdale, AZ 480-272-7500
OLD MATTRESS FACTORY - $
DJ’S DUGOUT - $
636 N. 114th St. - 402.498.8855 1003 Capitol Ave. - 402.763.9974 10308 S. 23rd St. - 402.292.9096 2102 S. 67th St. - 402.933.3533 180th and Q streets - 402.292.9096 192nd & West Maple St. - 402.315.1985 HWY 75 & Oak Hill Road - 402.298.4166 Catch all the action at DJ Dugout Sports Bar’s seven Omaha-area locations. DJ’s Dugout features delicious wings, burgers, wraps, salads, appetizers, and an impressive drink menu. Plus, DJ’s Dugout Sports Bar has huge media walls full of HD TVs and projectors. Dig In at the Dugout! —djsdugout.com
JAMS- $$
7814 Dodge St. - 402.399.8300 17070 Wright Plz, Ste. 100 - 402.810.9600 1101 Harney St. in the OldMarket - 402.614.9333
Jams is an Omaha restaurant legacy, an “American Grill” that offers a melting pot of different styles and varieties. The dishes are made with high-quality ingredients that pair well with award-winning wines or creative cocktails. —jamseats.com
LE PEEP - $
69th & Pacific - 402.933.2776 177th and Center streets - 402.934.9914 156th Street & W. Dodge Road - 402.408.1728 120th and Blondo streets - 402.991.8222
501 N 13th St. 402.346.9116
Keepin' it real in a renovated mattress factory built in 1883, remodeled in 2007 within walking distance to Omaha's major entertainment venues. Three private dining rooms for your own events, or stop in before or after any downtown Omaha event. Open daily at 11am-1am. themattomaha.com
ROTELLA’S - $
106 S. Galvin Road, Bellevue 402.291.6088 Since 1936, we’ve been making our worldfamous Stella’s hamburgers the same way. The family secrets have been handed down to each owner, ensuring that your burger is the same as the one you fell in love with the first time you tried Stella’s. And if it’s your first time, we know you’ll be back! MondaySaturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., closed Sunday. —stellasbarandgrill.com
TED AND WALLY’S - $ 1120 Jackson St. 402.341.5827
Come experience the true taste of homemade ice cream in the Old Market. Since 1986, we’ve created gourmet ice cream flavors in small batches using rock salt and ice. We offer your favorites, plus unique flavors like margarita, green tea, Guinness, and French toast. Special orders available. —tedandwallys.com
Le Peep puts a wholesome perspective on your favorite neighborhood breakfast and lunch spot. Fresh. Simple. Elegant. Inviting. We put the emphasis on people, both patrons and staff. We focus on providing each of our guests the fresh food and friendly service that they have come to expect. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. —lepeepomaha.com DINING GUIDE LEGEND
$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+
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• Private Parties & Events, Full & Partial Venue Buyout • Serving Burgers, Beers, Salads, Cocktails & Sunday Brunch
402.502.9902 6209 MAPLE ST. • BENSON GM@BARCHENBEER.COM BARCHEN BEER.COM
BEER GARDEN & BEER HALL
Omaha
DINING GUIDE I TA L I A N
Get a Little Get Saucy.
LA CASA PIZZARIA - $$
45th and Leavenworth streets 402.556.6464
La Casa Pizzaria has been serving Omaha its legendary Neapolitan-style pizza and pasta for 60 years. We offer dine-in, carry-out, party facilities, catering, and now pizza shipments to the 48 contiguous states. Open TuesdaySaturday at 11 a.m. and Sunday at 4:30 p.m. —lacasapizzaria.net
a Little Saucy. CHANGE
LO SOLE MIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO - $$
SPEZIA SPECIALTIES
3001 S. 32nd Ave. 402.345.5656
FRESH SEAFOOD • ANGUS BEEF INNOVATIVE PASTA • RISOTTO SPEZIA SPECIALTIES
WOOD FIRE•STEAKS & SEAFOOD GNOCCHI FRESH SALMON DAILY INNOVATIVE PASTA—RISOTTO—GNOCCHI FRESH SALMON DAILY
SATURDAY LUNCH [11am–4 pm] Saturday Lunch 11 am - 4 pm
$10
OFF ANY TICKET OVER $25 NO VALUE. CASH VALUE. EXPIRES 12/31/2011 NO CASH EXPIRES 6/30/2020 Not Valid with Happy Hour or Any Other Promotions. One Per Check.
Catering
COCKTAIL HOUR 1/2 Price Cocktails
MONDAY – SATURDAY Daily 4 - 6 pm 4 – 6 PM ALL COCK TAILS, 11 GLam ASS -WINE Sunday Brunch 2 pm AND BEERS ARE HALF Bottomless MimosasPRICE and
Bloody Marys
PASTA AMORE - $$
CALL FOR Party RESERVATIONS . Private Rooms•.402-391-2950 Walk-Ins Welcome
3125 South 72
Street
CENTRAL LOCATION • 3125 SOUTH 72ND STREET • nd EASY ACCESS OFF I-80 • 72ND STREET EXIT
(Easy access off I-80, take 72nd Street Exit)
402.391.2950 . Call today to make your reservation Sports Bar
2016 First Place KETV 7 • Baxter Arena
OMAHA’S #1 SPORTS BAR!
The restaurant is located in a residential neighborhood, surrounded by charming homes. Everyone is greeted with homemade bread, a bowl of fresh tomatoes and basil, a bowl of oven-roasted garlic cloves, specially seasoned olive oil, and (at night) a jug of Chianti! The menu includes a large variety of pasta, chicken, veal, seafood, and even a delicious New York steak. Traditional dishes such as lasagna, tortellini, and eggplant parmigiana are also available. Lunch offerings include panini, salads, and one of the best pizzas in town. Patio seating, full bar, and a great wine list complete the atmosphere. No reservations, except for private rooms. —losolemio.com
Sports Ba r
11027 Prairie Brook Road 402.391.2585
Pastas are made fresh daily, including tortellini, fettuccine, and capellini. Daily specials and menu items include a variety of fresh seafood and regional Italian dishes, such as linguini amore and calamari steak, penne Florentine, gnocchi, spaghetti puttanesca, and osso buco. Filet mignon is also offered for those who appreciate nationally renowned Nebraska beef. To complement your dining experience, the restaurant offers a full bar and extensive wine list. Be sure to leave room for homemade desserts, like the tiramisu and cannoli. Dinner starts at 4:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. —pastaamore.com
DJSDUGOUT.COM
DINING GUIDE LEGEND
$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+
JUNE 2020
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SECTION // NAMES
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JUNE 2020
SINCE 1921
rotellasbakery.com
Omaha
DINING GUIDE
Breakfast
PITCH - $$
5021 Underwood Ave. 402.590.2625
156th & Dodge • 408-1728 177th & Center • 934-9914 120th & Blondo • 991-8222 69th & Pacific • 933-2776
Thanks for Voting Us # BREAKFAST YEARS in a Row!
12
1
Drive-Thru Open (Center St. Only) Open Daily 6:30am-2:00pm Serving Breakfast & Lunch All Day!
LEPEEPOMAHA.COM | @LEPEEPOMAHA
An OpenTable’s Diners’ Choice for 2014 HotSpot Restaurant in America. Keeping up with the traditional way the first pizzas in Italy were made, our pizzas are cooked in a coal-fired oven. The menu also features seafood, hand-cut steak, housemade pastas, and burgers full of flavor. Our goal is to provide you with local, housemade, and imported ingredients. We offer a happy hour menu through the week. Our bar provides an array of in-house concoctions as well as your traditional libations. Our wine selection is well-thought-out and most impressive. You will enjoy Pitch. Monday 3 p.m.-10 p.m., Tuesday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., FridaySaturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 3-10 p.m. —pitchpizzeria.com
SPEZIA - $$$
3125 S. 72nd St. 402.391.2950
Choose Spezia for lunch or dinner, where you’ll find a casual elegance that ’s perfect for business guests, get-togethers, or any special occasion. Exceptional food, wine, and ser vice, with a delectable menu: fresh seafood, certified Angus steaks, innovative pasta, risotto, gnocchi, cioppino, lamb, entrée salads, Mediterranean chicken, flatbreads, and fresh salmon daily. Enjoy a full bar, Italian and C alifornia wines, Anniversar y/ Lovers’ Booth (call to reser ve), private dining rooms, and wood-fired grill. Open Monday-Sunday. Cocktail hour 4- 6 p.m., when all cocktails, glasses of wine, and beers are half price. Evening reser vations recommended. —speziarestaurant.com
Seafood - Mexican - Sushi
5101 S 36 th St, Omaha, NE 68107 - 402-213-5723 - Daily Food & Drink Specials
MEXICAN FERNANDO’S - $
Home of the
h Steak ouse
FAMOUS WHISKEY STEAK
@The Drover Restaurant & Lounge | Gift Cards Available 2121 S. 73 St. | (402) 391-7440 | DroverRestaurant.com Open Monday - Friday 11am - 2pm | Dinner nightly from 5pm
7555 Pacific St. - 402.339.8006. 380 N. 114th St. - 402.330.5707
Featuring Sonoran-style cooking made fresh daily. Catering and party rooms also available. Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 4-9 p.m. —fernandosomaha.com
DINING GUIDE LEGEND
$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+
JUNE 2020
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STEAKS • CHOPS • SEAFOOD ITALIAN SPECIALTIES 7 private party rooms Seating up to 400 Lots of parking
1620 S. 10th Street
402-345-8313
www.casciossteakhouse.com
Bringing Italy to Omaha Since 1919
Take a Taste of Italy Home Today!
HAPPY HOUR:
Tues–Sat 3-6pm & All Day Sunday
Tues-Thurs: 8:30am-8pm Friday: 8:30am-8:30pm Saturday: 7:30am-8pm Sunday: 7:30am-6pm
REVERSE HAPPY HOUR:
Friday & Saturday 9-11pm $1 OFF TACOS, $3 MEX BEERS, $5.50 MARGS 735 N 14th St. Omaha, NE 68102 402.933.4222 | hookandlime.com
Walking Distance to CHI Health Center Omaha & TD Ameritrade Park CLEAR BAG POLICY IS IN EFFECT
402.346.9116 | 501 N. 13th Street | theMattOmaha.com /the old mattress factory omaha
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June 2020
@Matt_factory
An Omaha favorite for over 100 years (1919-2019)
402.345.3438 621 Pacific St, Omaha NE orsibakery.com
Omaha’s Riverfront Entertainment Venue
Omaha
DINING GUIDE JULIO’S - $
2820 S. 123rd Court 402.330.2110
JAMS OLD MARKET • 1101 Harney St • Happy Hour M-F 3pm-6pm
Locally owned since 1977, Julio’s prides themselves on serving the finest Tex-Mex cuisine and offering top-notch customer service. Our loyal customers are the reason we have been around for nearly 40 years. We have an extensive menu that has both classic and innovative dishes—giving everyone the opportunity to find something they love. Salivating for Southwestern fare? We have tacos, tostadas, a dozen different enchiladas, and classic fajitas. And, of course, nachos! —julios.com
JAMS MIDTOWN • 7814 West Dodge Road • Sunday Brunch 10am-2pm
JAMS LEGACY • 17070 Wright Plaza • Party Rooms & Patios • jamseats.com
BOOK NOW!
LA MESA - $$
151 FREEDOM PARK ROAD OMAHA www.rivercitystar.com
ek Dining Gre
Greek Islands Restaurant Omaha, NE
xican Dining Me
Family Owned Since 1983 CATERING / PARTY ROOM AVAILABLE HOMEMADE, FRESH FOOD, ALWAYS.
3821 Center St. / 402.346.1528 GreekIslandsOmaha.com
www.romeosOMAHA.com
158th Street and W. Maple Road - 402.557.6130 156th and Q streets - 402.763.2555 110th St. and W. Maple Road - 402.496.1101 Fort Crook Road and Hwy 370, Bellevue - 402.733.8754 84th Street and Tara Plaza, Papillion - 402.593.0983 Lake Manawa Exit, Council Bluffs - 712.256.2762 Enjoy awesome enchiladas, fabulous fajitas, seafood specialties, mouth-watering margaritas, and more at La Mesa. Come see why La Mesa has been voted Omaha’s No. 1 Mexican restaurant 16 years in a row. SundayThursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. —lamesaomaha.com
MARGARITA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT - $
4915 S. 72nd St. - 402.393.7515
Margarita’s is a business with more than seven years in the food world. We offer authentic Mexican food where you can enjoy a nice moment with your family. —margaritasmenu.com
DINING GUIDE LEGEND
$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+
JUNE 2020
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Omaha
n Sandwi ube ch Re
DINING GUIDE
ROMEO’S MEXICAN FOOD AND PIZZA - $
90th and Blondo streets - 402.391.8870 146th St. and W. Center Road - 402.330.4160 96th and L streets - 402.331.5656 Galvin and Avery roads, Bellevue - 402.292.2028 29th and Farnam streets - 4402.346.1110
Romeo’s is your friendly, family Mexican food and pizza restaurant.We take real pride in serving our guests generous portions of the freshest, most flavorful dishes made with the finest ingredients available. Zesty seasonings and the freshest ingredients combine to ensure the ultimate in flavor. Our savory taco meat is prepared every morning at each location. Make sure to try our chimichangas; they’re the best in town. —romeosomaha.com
Try Omaha’s Favorite Reuben! Thank You, Thank You,
Thank You
For Continually Voting For Us!
Serving Lunch & Dinner Mon-Sat 3001 S. 32nd Ave / Omaha, NE 402.345.5656
an Dining Itali
Omaha’s largest selection of craft beers.
3578 Farnam St • 402-345-1708 www.beercornerusa.com
FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED, SERVING OMAHA SINCE 1967
402.451.8061 3801 Ames Ave | Omaha Ne 68111
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Omaha
DINING GUIDE
SPECIAL DINING BÄRCHEN BEER GARDEN - $
6209 Maple St. 402.502.9902
Located in Benson, Bärchen is a modern American beer garden and beer hall influenced by German communal drinking culture. Indoor seating for approximately 125 people and outdoor seating in our beer garden for approximately 125-150 people. The laid-back atmosphere pairs well with our 30 rotating taps, international beer list, unique sausage & sandwich menu, and locally made pretzels. We are family and dog friendly—all are welcome. Hours: TuesThurs 3 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m. For more information or to host an event, please email gm@barchenbeer.com —barchenbeer.com
BRUSHI BISTRO+BAR - $$
721 N. 132nd St. 402.884.6878
Swiss-trained chef Paul Braunschweiler combines the best of Europe’s epicurean delights with an American flair. Brushi’s casual and open atmosphere combine to create a true bistro experience. Fresh ingredients highlight the menu. Happy Hours and nightly specials. Private dining available. Patio seating weather permitting. —brushiomaha.com
CRESCENT MOON ALE HOUSE - $ 3578 Farnam St.
402.345.1708 Founded in 1996, we’ve grown into Beer Corner USA with the additions of The Huber Haus German Beer Hall, Max and Joe’s Belgian Beer Tavern, and Beertopia—Omaha’s Ultimate Beer Store. With more than 60 beers on tap and Omaha’s best Reuben sandwich, we are a Midtown beer-lover’s destination. Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.2 a.m. Kitchen hours: Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m.-1 p.m., Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight. Closed Sunday. —beercornerusa.com
FIRST WATCH - $
1222 S. 71st St. - 402.932.5691 2855 S. 168th St. - 402.330.3444 3605 N. 147th St. - 402.965.3444 304 Olson Drive., Papillion - 402.965.3444 2015 Pratt Ave., Bellevue - 402.991.3448 We begin each morning at the crack of dawn, slicing fresh fruits and vegetables, baking muffins, and whipping up our French toast batter from scratch. Everything is made toorder here at First Watch. We use only the finest ingredients possible for the freshest taste around. —firstwatch.com
GREEK ISLANDS - $
3821 Center St. - 402.346.1528 Greek cuisine with specials every day at reasonable prices. We are well-known for our gyro sandwiches and salads. We cater and can accommodate a party for 65 guests. Carry-out and delivery available. MondayThursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.- 7 p.m. —greekislandsomaha.com
J.COCO - $$$
5203 Leavenworth St. - 402.884.2626
The building that once housed a beloved neighborhood grocery has a new future. Built as a grocery back in 1925, it is now home to J. Coco. Our seasonal menus, rooted in tradition, showcase our natural ingredients. Local, organic, and sustainable when available. We feature craft bartending, housemade desserts, and pastas. We celebrate the traditional with a modern twist. Lunch: Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5 p.m.-close. —jcocoomaha.com
PARADISE BAKERY - $
17305 Davenport St. - 402.934.5757 120 Regency Parkway - 402.991.3000 Paradise Bakery offers freshly prepared baked goods made from scratch every morning with the finest ingredients available. Offering a variety of meals including soups, salads, and sandwiches. Our associates are extremely proud of the reputation Paradise has earned for providing exceptional service and producing the finest-quality products. —paradisebakery.com
TAJ KABOB AND CURRY - $ 654 N. 114th St.
402.933.1445 / 402.238.4317 Taj of Omaha shares its love of traditional Indian cuisine with friends and family in the Omaha area. The owners invite you to come enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and new menu. Taj offers both lunch and dinner specials, delivery and catering services, and a free party room. —tajofomaha.com
STEAKHOUSES CASCIO’S - $$
1620 S. 10th St. - 402-345-8313 C ascio’s is Omaha’s No. 1 steakhouse. We have been ser ving Omaha for 69 years. We feature steaks, chops, seafood, and Italian specialties. We have seven private party rooms, seating for up to 400 people, and plenty of parking. —casciossteakhouse.com
THE DROVER RESTAURANT & LOUNGE - $$$ KOREA GARDEN AUTHENTIC ASIAN CUISINE AND SUSHI - $$ 5352 S. 72nd St. - 402.505.4089
Lunch specials served Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m., featuring signature Korean dishes like bulgogi, doenjang jjigae, and grilled mackerel. Menu includes appetizers, traditional specialties, rice, noodles, soup, and beverages. —koreangardenomaha.com
2121 S. 73rd St. - 402-391-7440
Famous for the original Whiskey Steak. Truly a one-of-a-kind Midwestern experience. Excellent food, wine, service, and value. Rare... and very well done. Lunch Monday- Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m., cocktail hour 3-6 p.m., dinner nightly 5 p.m. —droverrestaurant.com
DINING GUIDE LEGEND
$=$1-10 • $$=$10-20 • $$$=$20-30 • $$$$=$30+
JUNE 2020
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// EXPLORE CALENDAR //
NEBRASK A
HERITAGE DAY June 6 at Yanney Heritage Park in Kearney. Kick-off summer with this free event that includes inflatables, several food vendors, fireworks, and live music. 308-233-3278. —yanneypark.org POLISH DAYS June 12-14 in Loup City. This is a three-day celebration of all things Polish. There is a parade, street dance with live music, color run, a beer garden, and more. 308-7450430. —facebook.com/polishdays NEBRASKALAND DAYS June 14-27 at Wild West Arena in North Platte. This festival celebrates Nebraska’s western heritage. The PRCA Buffalo Bill Rodeo features fan favorites such as bull riding, and steer roping. The event also includes parades, an antique car show, quilt show, and tennis tournaments. Luke Combs and Toby Keith headline the music. 308-532-7939. —nebraskalanddays.com ANNEVAR June 12-13, 19-21 in Ravenna. This festival, which is Ravenna spelled backwards, is a community celebration that includes a midway, demo derby, two-day tractor pull, parade, sand volleyball, car show, fun run/walk, and a three-man scramble golf tournament. 308-452-3133. —myravenna.com/annevar
FATHER’S DAY CAR SHOW June 20-21 at MACNIDER ARTS FESTIVAL AND Strategic Air Command and Aerospace OUTDOOR ART MARKET June 8 Museum in Ashland. Classic and at Charles H. MacNider Art vintage cars will be on display for Museum in Mason City. This JUNE the enjoyment and viewing of the festival, a celebration of ‘Music public. Awards will be handed out Man’ Meredith Willson, includes a Saturday. 402-944-3100. free pancake breakfast, inflatables, —sacmuseum.org and live music. An art market will be displayed on the museum lawn. 641-421-3666. —macniderart.org 40TH ANNUAL HOMESTEAD DAYS June 24-28 at Homestead National Monument near Beatrice and in Beatrice. Visitors ICE CREAM DAYS June 17-20, Le Mars. can see how people lived in the late Known as the “Ice Cream Capital of the 1800s through stage performances, World,” Le Mars is the home of Blue Bunny demonstrations of traditional crafts Ice Cream. This event includes a parade, and farm machinery, a re-enactment a Grill-n-Chill Rib Rally, live music, and of a Civil War encampment, children’s more. 712-546-8821. —lemarsiowa.com festival, a car show, geocaching and more. 402-223-3514. —nps.gov/home STATE CENTER ROSE FESTIVAL June 18-21 in State Center. The town of State RIBFEST June 27-28 in Duncan. Rib Center is known as the “Rose Capital lovers will enjoy this festival, which of Iowa” and their official flower will focuses on tasty barbecued ribs. A be in full bloom during this festival, variety of award-winning barbecue the highlight of which is the aromatic vendors will be on hand to provide this rose garden that is open to the public. summer staple, along with live music. Activities include a parade, crowning 402-897-5285. —villageofduncan.com of the “Rose Queen,” live music, and fireworks. —statecenterrosefestival.org
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IOWA
SUX PRIDE June 6-7 at Doxx
Warehouse Bar in Sioux City. This two-day event will be a celebration of the diversity in Sioux City, featuring an equality march, drag shows, and more. —facebook.com/SUXPride
TESTICLE FESTIVAL June 19 and June 20 at Round the Bend Steakhouse SCANDINAVIAN DAYS June 5-7 in in Ashland. This festival really Story City. This festival celebrates the has some…well, never mind. Scandinavian heritage of Story City. Attendees can participate in a Events include Kumla and Kringla eating ball eating contest and listen to live contests, a Lutefisk throwing contest, a 5k music. The event includes a fireworks run/walk, live music, and a craft fair. display and more traditional fair food —storycitygcc.org (nachos, corn dogs, etc.) for those who prefer not to eat bull fries. 402-944-9974. —roundthebendsteakhouse.com/festival
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JUNE 2020
37TH ANNUAL ANTIQUE SHOW June 19-21
in Walnut. Over 350 dealers of antiques and collectibles line the city of Walnut’s historic streets, during this spectacular display of community and tradition. 712784-3443. —walnutantiqueshow.com
WURST FESTIVAL June 20 in the Amana Colonies. Guests can sample sausages from the area’s best sausage makers and sip on cold drinks while listening to live music, playing games, and watching the second annual Dachshund Derby. 319622-7622. —festivalsinamana.com
// EXPLORE CALENDAR //
JUNE 2020
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E - SCOOTERS AVAIL ABLE SUMMER 2020
// EXPLORE CALENDAR //
DES MOINES ARTS FESTIVAL June 26-28 at Western Gateway Park in Des Moines. This event celebrates artists in the Des Moines area and includes the Interrobang Film Festival as well as visual arts and music. Rock ’n’ Roll Hall of Fame Inductees The Family Stone headline Saturday night. 515-286-4950. —desmoinesartsfestival.org SHARED ELECTRIC SCOOTERS FOR CITIES & CAMPUSES
W W W. S PI N . A PP
ARTFEST MIDWEST 2019 June 27-28 at Iowa Events Center in Des Moines. This two-day event will feature over 250 artists and their artworks, food, activities, and more. 515-243-2000. —artfestmidwest.com MISSOURI
NORTH END FESTIVAL June 5-6 at Krug Park in St. Joseph. This community festival includes live music, a parade, dance performances, vendors, food, and fireworks. 816-232-1839. —stjomo.com JUNETEENTHKC HERITAGE FESTIVAL
1080 N 204th Ave Elkhorn, NE 68022 402.289.1175
June 20 in Kansas City. This free event is a celebration of African American culture that features vendors, live entertainment, activities, and more. 816-6730004. —juneteenth-kc.com
reggandwallys.net
June
20
K ANSAS
HEARTLAND STAMPEDE June 25-27 in Topeka. This country music festival is three days of fun and country music. Headliners include Luke Combs and Toby Keith. 785-539-2222. —countrystampede.com
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Billy McGuigan’s Pop Rock Orchestra*
Aug. 7 – 16, 2020
Clybourne Park
A Christmas Carol*
The Candy Project Presents:
Yesterday And Today*
March 18 – 21, 2021
Nov. 20 – Dec. 23, 2020 Nov. 27 – Dec. 31, 2020
Aug. 21 – Sept. 20, 2020
The Miracle Worker
Kinky Boots
Sept.25 – Oct. 25, 2020
Water by the Spoonful
April 16 – May 9, 2021
The Scottsboro Boys
Outside Mullingar
In the Heights
Feb. 26 – March 21, 2021
OmahaPlayhouse.com // OmahaMag_June_Season.indd 92 // JUNE 2020
1
Murder on the Orient Express
Jan. 15 – Feb. 7, 2021
Feb. 12 – March 14, 2021
Oct. 16 – Nov. 8, 2020
Gutenberg! The Musical!*
May 7 – 30, 2021
Roald Dahl’s
Willy Wonka
May 28 – June 27, 2021
*Special Events are not part of subscription packages
4/14/20 1:06 PM
LIGHTS ON THE LAKE June 27 at Osawatomie Lake in Osawatomie. Attendees can celebrate the culture and history of Kansas at this event, which includes food trucks, live music, and fireworks over the lake. 913-755-2146. —ozlightsonthelake.com Event times and details may change.
Visit omahamagazine.com for complete listings. Check with venue or event organizer to confirm.
// DINING PROFILE //
continued from pg.79
“
I
really saw that glimmer in his eye when he said, ‘You know, what if we did this, what if we do that or have you ever done that?’” said Beiting, who retired in 2015. “It was magic.” As Johnson learned the basics of cooking, he learned the reality of working in a kitchen, where uniformity trumps sticking out. And as a young, scrawny kid working alongside career line cooks, Johnson stuck out.
“I’m going to be cooking harder the next five years than I ever have in my life,” he said. It’s another step in his culinary progression, one where he always keeps an eye on Omaha. In the summers of 2017 and 2019, he hosted pop-up dinners at Block 16. Last year he invited Beiting into the kitchen where she saw the realized talent of that 14-year-old kid in her homeroom who didn’t seem to have a purpose.
“These guys would burn me, these guys would try and break me down, they would put me in tears, He hadn’t lost his affable Midwestern humility, either. they’d throw my f---ing meat in the garbage,” he “I would say, ‘Chef, what do said. “Like who wants to you want me to do?’” Beiting H E M IGHT HOVE R OVE R cook with a 15-year-old kid? said. “How do you want this?” Not many people.” PLATES WITH TI NY SPOONS, “Do whatever you want,” she Beiting as well as his chefs remembered him saying. FI N ISH I NG DISH ES WITH encouraged him along the “You’re the chef.” ARTFU L DRIZZLES, DASH ES, way as his skills matured. Eventually, they also told He might hover over plates OR DOLLOPS, BUT H E’S STI LL him to leave Omaha if he with tiny spoons, finishing wanted to keep growing. dishes with artful drizzles, PRETTY “OMAHA” AT H EART. dashes, or dollops, but he’s At 20 he left for Indianapolis, still pretty “Omaha” at heart. then Seattle, then New York, and took two trips on a commercial salmon fishing That’s why as he imagines the future, one idea boat up Alaska’s inner passage. It led him across materializes at the end of his bucket list. the Atlantic to Noma in Copenhagen, then the best restaurant in the world, as well as Oud Slous, It’s a restaurant somewhere along a rough brick road a best-kept secret in a small Danish village, and the in a market with open air patios and small shops. It’s Frenchie in Paris and London. a place where his family and friends can experience the fine dining he’s spent years mastering. Today in New York City he’s the executive chef of Goodman’s Bar, a refined spot in an upscale “I’d like to have a restaurant in San Francisco, I want department store on the southern edge of Central to have a restaurant on a sailboat,” he said, “but at Park. In his new restaurant in Tribeca, the same the end of the day it’d be cool to have a kick ass building where John Lennon and Yoko Ono once little restaurant in the Old Market somewhere and founded their own nation, even the vegetables open the greatest little wine bar ever.” are sourced from a 10-acre farm he owns in upstate New York. Visit @austininnyc on Instagram to learn more about Johnson. The standards for quality couldn’t be higher.
JUNE
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2020
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JUNE 2020
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NOT FUNNY // COLUMN BY OTIS TWELVE // PHOTOGRAPH BY BILL SITZMANN
and thanks for all the fish
BACON AND EGGS AND TORTILLA CHIPS…
S
o, I was sitting at the kitchen counter munching on some flaxseed tortilla chips, half watching a news channel nervously—hey, anytime you’re watching a news channel you should be at least a little nervous, right? Anyway, suddenly I started thinking— yeah, I just started thinking. Like most people, it’s not something I do regularly—thinking, that is. But there I was, sitting, thinking, munching. I looked at the flaxseed tortilla chip held lightly between forefinger and thumb, and it came to me. These chips were the real expression of an old expression. They were “food for thought.” At that point I changed the channel to Ghost Hunters and I kind of stopped thinking. But now I know what to do if I ever need to think again. Buy more of those chips.
I’ve run into a few other food clichés the last month or so. One morning, I had my toast ready to go. I had the bacon done. I am very good at bringing it home, by the way. I reached into the carton…and oh, no! There it was, a childhood memory come to life. You see, back when I was very young, I overheard my dad talking about a guy who worked for him, saying he was trouble, and comparing him to a bit of spoiled food. Thus, whenever that guy dropped by the house, I eyed him with apprehension, worried that he might suddenly crack and spill his huge yolk all over my toys. Anyway, I was in the middle of putting together my Saturday breakfast when my memory manifested itself… there it was, a “bad egg” for real. As for that problematic employee, I did notice how he always tried to butter up my dad. It did him no good. My dad was as cool as a cucumber.
JUNE
For years I ate an apple a day. But I realized there were some doctors that you didn’t want to keep away, like those with good Sunday tee times. So, the apples fell away…though not far from the tree.
I remember once telling someone who was trying to get me involved in Amway to go away, I had bigger fish to fry. And that made me wonder if it was inherently better to fry larger fish. I mean, are small fish not worth the effort? And exactly how much bigger a fish could I fry? My frying pan did have its limits after all. At some point I simply can’t fry any bigger fish even if there are bigger fish to fry. I will say that I loved Albert Finney in Big Fish, but other than that, I think bigger fish are overrated. If I go to the grocery store and buy a lemon, that’s good. If I go to the car dealership and buy a lemon that’s bad. If I’m handed lemons I make lemonade, but not without sugar in the morning, sugar in the evening, sugar at suppertime. So, pour some sugar on me. (What does that lyric mean?) Hey, when I’m stuck at home, and I’m not counting my chickens, I think about food a lot. That’s the way of the couch potato. Otis Twelve hosts the radio program Early Morning Classics with Otis Twelve on 90.7 KVNO, weekday mornings from 6-10 a.m. Visit kvno.org for more information.
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2020
Pasta amore
402.391.2585
Dine - in / takeout / CurbsiDe available Rockbrook Village (108th & Center) // 402.391.2585 // pastaamore.com Monday - Saturday, 4:30 p.m. On // Outdoor Patio Dining Available
Pasta
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