The Omaha Metro
Event Report:
IWFS Holiday Party – A Traditional Country Club Celebration
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Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas
Quinta de Vargellas is pre-eminent among the wine estates of the Douro. Located in the wild and hilly eastern reaches of the valley, it has been prized as a source of the finest ports since the 1820s. Today it ranks among the great vineyards of the world. Located in the eastern Douro Valey, it has two microclimates. One is a large north facing ampitheater of terraced vineyard rising above the Douro River. But the wine that represents the the quintessence of the terroir is the Vinha Vehlha vineyard, made of old vines. Downstream from the original property is the recently planted São Xisto vineyard planted in a vertical style. Taylor Fladgate purchased the property in 1893. Taylor Quinta Vargellas is only made in years where the flagship Taylor Fladgate (TF) Vintage Port (VP) is not made. It is released to the market earlier than a VP would be, but it is more earlier maturing than declared TF VP. It is accessible young but will age. Our bottle was a 2012. In my opinion, it was ready to drink but could also age for another 10 years at least. It is a great bottle of Port for less money than a VP.
A Traditional Country Club Celebration
Written by Tom Murnan, Photos by Tom Murnan
Our Sunday December 15th Holiday event was a joint event with the Omaha Metro Branch. The Happy Hollow Club looked festive with its Christmas decorations. With the theme of Traditional Country Club Celebration, the menu did not have as many courses as we sometimes have, but they were all very tasty. We had 76 attendees and a relaxed dress code of Holiday Attire. The quaffing station had an abundance of Champagne and different wines to choose from, while the appetizer station provided Prosciutto Wrapped Pears, Braised Short Rib Croquet and bite sized Saint André Raspberry Tarts. John Fascianella provided live singing throughout the evening, beginning with this meet and greet session. I have to say, everyone seemed especially cheery.
Once seated, we started with HHC Classic Thunderbird Salad. I always thought the Thunderbird Salad originated at the Omaha Press Club, but it began right here at the Happy Hollow Club when Peruvian born Executive Chef Luis Villamonte served it to guests in the 1960s. Wow. Talk about being on theme! Maybe I thought it came from the Press Club because Steve Villamonte is Luis’ son. So, besides the Reuben sandwich and butter brickle ice cream, Omaha can claim the Thunderbird as having originated here. The Alheit Cartoloy Western Cape Chenin Blanc 2018 was a good match for the TB salad.
Next was the HHC Classic Lobster Bisque. Rich and creamy, with lots of lobster chunks, we tried both a white and a red wine. I preferred the Roserock Drouhin Oregon Chardonnay 2019. Its high acidity cut right through the soup’s richness, and its lack of oak and slight citrus flavor was exactly right for the bisque. Astoundingly, it received a mighty 99-point rating from WA reviewer Erin Brooks. The competing red wine, a Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Rhȏne was a poor match according to my palate. But Mike Wilke
was polling the diners and said it was 50 / 50 out in the crowd. All I can say is there’s no accounting for taste. The duo wines continued with the entrée, where Filet of Beef shared the plate with Chilean Sea Bass. Sides were Boursin Whipped Potatoes, Baby Carrot, Green Beans, Broccolini and Brandy Peppercorn Sauce. The two reds were both Cabernet based, and weren’t doing any favors for the Sea Bass, but they were more tolerable than the Gigondas with the bisque, especially if you added some of the potatoes with the fish. For one thing, the tannins and oak were not friends to the bass. But with the beef, the reds shined. Both wines did a great job there. When we went to the IWFS Bordeaux Festival in 2022, we ate at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, south of Bordeaux city in Pessac Leognan. It was pretty much neglected by the wine press until Robert Parker himself gave the 2009 a 100-point rating. Since then, demand has soared. Our 2014 version did quite well as did the Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.
Dessert was Chocolate Dipped Crème Brûlee. Chocolaty, vanilla-ish and sweet, what was not to like? The Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Port 2012 was tannic, young but right on for matching flavors of the custard, especially with the chocolate. John Fascianella had been playing most of the evening, grabbing dinner during breaks. With all his Italian songs, as well as sounding a lot like Frank Sinatra, he was a great hit with my Italian wife Mary and her sisterguest, Paula. After dinner, a small number (of mostly women) were dancing to the tunes. All in all, it was a relaxing, fun evening. Many thanks to Mike & Rhonda Wilke. Co-Host Joe Goldstein was busy getting a raise from his son, who graduated from college the day before. Joe acknowledged the Wilkes in his opening greeting when we sat down. The service was superior, and the chef made himself country club proud.
