The Omaha
Event Report: 54th High Noon Stag at Fleming’s Cognac vs. Armagnac Upcoming Events.
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Cognac vs. Armagnac
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On our January 4th stag, Steve Hipple led us through the differences between Armagnac and Cognac. Both are considered a form of Brandy. Much more Cognac is made, 220 million bottles, than Armagnac whose production is just 3 million bottles. Both are considered a spirit, which means they put the grape juice into a still. Armagnac uses a Column Still, which can operate continuously, making them faster and more economical. Armagnac is distilled only once. In contrast, Cognac uses a Pot Still in which the fermented grape juice is made in batches. This is a slower and more labor-intensive process. Cognac is distilled two times. Flavor wise, Armagnac is powerful, complex with robust rustic flavors that pick you up and toss you around like a rag doll in the teeth of a labrador. It is nearly pure ethanol. Cognac is more subtle and gentle. Steve told us that the difference between the two is like two different women. One is polished, dresses in stiletto heels, wears designer clothes and has refined tastes, likes three-star restaurants, while the other is like a country girl from the wilds of Montana, wears cowboy boots, rides bulls in a rodeo and likes campfire dinners. Cognac is made from one grape, the Ugni Blanc, which is only good in Cognac. Armagnac uses 4 different grapes. Armagnac is aged longer and has a higher alcohol content. Armagnac is usually a family-owned business, while large corporations own Cognac. You will find these acronyms on Cognac: VSOP stands for Very Special Old Pale, and XO stands for Extra Old.
Cheers!
Tom Murnan
Who has deceived thee so oft as thyself? - Benjamin Franklin.
Best of the Cockle Bur compiled & edited by Harry B. Otis, 3rd President 1973-1974
Event Report: 54th High Noon Stag at Fleming’s
Written by Tom Murnan, Photos by Tom Murnan
The Omaha Branch has had a noon stag on the first Saturday in January for 54 years now. The tradition started at the French Café. We never had an Armagnac vs. Cognac tasting until January 10, 2015, at V. Mertz (the year before the M’s Pub fire). So, our sit down tasting of the two French spirits at Fleming’s Steakhouse was only the second time the Branch has done this exercise. Before you start drinking these two spirits on an empty stomach (not advisable) you had better have some appetizers. Unfortunately, Fleming’s was experimenting with serving lunch for the general public during the holidays, so the main dining room was not available this year. We were in the smallish party room. We started with large shrimp on ice, huge onion rings, and Chicken Satay on skewers, served with peanut sauce. All were quite tasty. Upon sitting down, we started the Cognac vs. Armagnac tasting (CvA). Steve Hipple led the comparisons. Read the separate section devoted to these two spirits in this gazette.
After my palate had been fried by the high alcohol of the CvA tasting, we moved on to more gentle wine pairings. A classic Caesar Salad was paired to the Goldschmidt Vineyards Chardonnay 2022. It was nice and smooth but could have used a bit more acidity. Fleming’s makes a really nice French Onion Soup which to me seems just a touch sweet.
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Perhaps it is the type of onion they use. It has nice, complex flavors. A wine pairing with a soup can be tricky as it is so liquid. We had two wines to choose from. The Alain Voge “Les Chailles” Cornas 2015 [Chailles translates to Jurassic flint] comes from the southern Rhȏne, not far from Chãteauneuf-du-Pape. Unlike CduP, which can have 13 different grapes, Cornas just has Syrah. Our other comparison wine was the Joseph Phelps Freestone Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2018. The Pinot Noir was the better match as the Syrah was too strong and wild for the soup. Tomahawk ribeye was our Third Course and entrée. The beef and sides were served family style. The tomahawk came to the table pre-sliced, one for every two diners. It was quite good, tender, and had a great beefy taste. Not two but three red wines were presented: one Cab from Napa, one Bordeaux and one Italian Amarone. The three tables were split on which wine they preferred. But we still had two courses to go. The 4th Course was assorted Cheese and Warre Vintage Port 2011, a spot on match. Dessert was Baked Apple and Brie Galette. The galette served as a kind of puff pastry base and had a scoop of vanilla ice cream surrounded by baked apples. The Doisy Vedrines Sauternes 2011 was a perfect pairing. Many thanks to Mike Wilke, our event organizer, Chef Rafael Ponce and Sarah Wallace who was in charge of the wine service. Our Wait staff were very attentive and busy!
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