7 minute read
Raising a glass: Squerryes vineyard invites us on a wonderful tasting tour of its award-winning wines
by One Media
Full of the joys...
Squerryes wine estate is celebrating yet another prestigious win for its sensational wines. Eileen Leahy took a tour of its picturesque North Downs vineyard and impressive hospitality offering to find out what makes this family-run winery such a sparkling success
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Squerryes in the sunshine is quite possibly the closest thing to heaven you’ll find on earth. Just a quick trip up the A21 from Tunbridge Wells, you’ll find it located just a few minutes from historic Westerham in the picturesque North Downs.
The family-run vineyard is surrounded by lush Kentish farmland as far as the eye can see. Its smart HQ boasts a ‘rosé vineyard’ which can be wandered through or admired while savouring a tasting flight in the Bottle Store restaurant or private function area. At the heart of Squerryes is a fabulous terrace where you can tuck into the most delicious tapas style dishes. There is also a fancy Cork Room where formal group tastings can be booked.
So far, so impressive but then as I quickly discover when I meet Henry Warde, owner and eighth generation of the Squerryes clan, their family motto has always been quite literally all about creating joy.
“Do you see the sign at the top of the main building?” he asks as we begin our walkabout of the estate which has been in the family for over 300 years. I gaze up, eyes squinting in the midday summer sunshine to see a logo which Henry says reads ‘Licet Esse Beatis’ which translates as ‘It is permitted to be joyful.’
“At Squerryes we are committed to the business of creating joy. And do you see that the door on the logo is ajar? That means our door is always open to you.”
This Henry says has always been ‘the spirit of the house’ since the first generation of his family lived at Squerryes.
“Treasured letters tell how Sir Patience Warde traded wool from the Estate with the French for red wine, which he then sold to the hardworking people of London bringing some pleasure to their days.”
Henry says the transition from traditional farming on the estate to growing grapes instead was prompted by a visit from a famous, but unnamed, French Champagne house when they paid a visit to Squerryes.
“It felt like the tides were changing when the Champagne house came to Squerryes looking to buy some of our land on which to grow their vines,” he explains. “My father, John, and I decided to walk away from those negotiations and instead set about planting 36 acres of vines ourselves back in 2006.”
It is a well-known fact that the land around here - known in French as ‘le terroir’ - has more in common with the Champagne region because the soil types and climates are so similar. It also explains why English wines, especially sparkling varieties such as Squerryes produces, are enjoying such a boom time right now thanks to their excellent quality.
Once Henry and his father had planted the first vines in 2006 he says his dad referenced that particular period as the ‘long, thirsty wait’.
Phtotos © Squerryes
Well their thirst was certainly quenched as since then Squerryes has gone on to produce some exceptional sparkling wines, and also some great vintages, which have won a host of prestigious awards. These include winning gold in the 2020 World Championships and sweeping the board at the 2021 International Wine Challenge, where it received three trophies for its Blanc de Blanc 2014 and Brut 2011. They are also the only English wine estate to have won a gold medal for five consecutive vintages in the World Championships of Champagne and Sparkling Wine. Most recently, Squerryes was awarded top marks and the Best in Show trophy at the 2021 Decanter World Wine Awards – no mean feat given it was the only English representative in the Top 50.
“This award is not only testament to our team’s hard work and expert winemaking skills, but it reinforces our place as one of the best Champagne and sparkling wine brands in the world,” Henry told me.
Before sampling Squerryes’ golden nectar, we go on a brief tour of the rosé vineyard which is in fact just a small fraction of the vines the family has been growing on its 2,500 acre estate since 2006.
“Joy has always been the spirit of the Squerryes estate, influencing all we do,” continues Henry as we meander up from the vines towards the Bottle Store restaurant for a tasting flight.
Located above the charming Medstyle Terrace Restaurant we take a seat at one of the space’s many antique
tables to enjoy a trio of Squerryes hero bubbles: a Brut release, their exclusive 2018 vintage Rosé and their Blanc de Blancs. Henry explains the award-winning wines are made using the ‘Great British Classic Method’ blending only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes.
“We also like to bottle joy in the form of fine vintage sparkling wine,” adds Henry as he pops the cork and pours the sublime tasting sparklers.
Savouring each one it is instantly clear why an established French Champagne house came looking to buy land here. They truly are of a superior quality and could easily match their gallic counterparts – possibly outdoing them thanks to their complexity, depth and distinct fruity character.
The tasting flight comes as part of the 90-minute tour (£28) which runs Fridays-Sundays from the end of May ‘til October and covers the vineyard’s growing season.
You can of course leave it there and walk away – preferably having invested in a few bottles. But if you are going to Squerryes then I would highly recommend carving out some time to dine there too in order to further enhance your visit as the food is really superb. The seasonal menus which boast locally sourced produce from in and around the estate are curated by head chef Alexander Baillieu.
During the summer months you Raise a glass to Squerryes’ awardwinning wines:
In 2021 Squerryes was given top marks at the Decanter World Wine Awards for its late disgorged 2011 Brut, placing it on the top 50 wines of the world list.
An esteemed panel of judges awarded it a score of 97 and also the Best in Show trophy, describing its aromas as, ‘expressive, harmonious and refined after a decade of slow maturation’.
The 2011 is a classic Champagne style boasting a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier grapes.
It is the latest in a string of major awards for Squerryes this year, having already swept the board at the 2021 International Wine Challenge, receiving three trophies for the Blanc de Blanc 2014 and Brut 2011.
Squerryes has also won five gold medals for five consecutive vintages at the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships.
to enquire about booking a tour, a table or membership at Squerryes visit Squerryes.co.uk. can feast on the terrace, which also boasts sheltered areas if the weather doesn’t play ball. Here you’ll find a menu brimming with small plates such as stuffed courgette flower with spinach, ricotta and sage, potted Morecambe Bay shrimps and duck and orange terrine with toasted sourdough. Main dishes include epicurean delights such as roasted seabass with caramelised fennel, crushed new potatoes, citrus fruit and orange and basil jus as well as asparagus, mint and ricotta tart with Squerryes Estate watercress salad.
The characterful Bottle Store upstairs - which boasts stacks of vintage port boxes, row upon row of Squerryes bottles and plenty of vinous picture paraphernalia - also serves food and is open from next month (September 22) as the weather starts to turn.
As we wander around the rest of the estate which is also home to the Westerham Brewing Company and the Flint and Oak Deli, Henry tells me that the joy he constantly speaks of with his wines is just as important to be present in the food and additional services Squerryes offers.
“Joy really is at the heart of everything we do including in the spaces we have created for people to enjoy our wines and delicious food.”
After spending a few precious hours in Squerryes’ special company I would say that joy is most definitely the best way to describe this delightful experience.
