the
GOOD GRUB G U I D E 2017
SO Magazine / JANUARY 2017 / 3
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_Cover2.indd 3
25/01/2017 16:16
Untitled-12 2
25/01/2017 10:20
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
WELCOME TO THE SO MAGAZINE GOOD GRUB GUIDE FOR 2017
D
ining out is one of the simpler pleasures in life, but one that is a joy nonetheless. What could be better than catching up with a friend over cake, spending the evening surrounded by family and good food in your favourite haunt, or enjoying a cosy meal for two in a stylish bistro? In our part of the world, we’re
incredibly fortunate to have an abundance of wonderful restaurants where we can indulge every fancy – and as the culinary scene becomes evermore creative and current, we’re likely to see even more exciting eateries popping up in the near future. Across the following pages is a
feast for the eyes, as we go behind the scenes at a range of local restaurants to discover what makes them special. Owners and chefs tell us what’s on the menu where they work, their food trend predictions for the year ahead, and why you should book a table in their establishment. We hope you’re hungry….
SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 103
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_Intro.indd 103
25/01/2017 16:17
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
CONTENTS 105 TURMERIC GOLD How the family business are adding some spice 106 RENDEZ VOUS Locally sourced food with a continental twist 107 THE PANTILES CAFÉ Discover what this new eatery has planned 108 HATTONS Raise a glass for the new wine club 109 THE WARREN Eat from farm to fork at this local restaurant 110 THE DORSET ARMS Try the fresh and local produce at this popular pub 112 THE BOTTLE HOUSE INN Their scotch egg signature dish sounds divine 113 THE TUNBRIDGE WELLS HOTEL From events to eating, there’s something for everyone 114 THE SPA HOTEL Get the date of their next bottomless brunch in the diary 116 WINE BUYING GUIDE Pour a glass of these new favourites 119 ROSEMARY SHRAGER Our celebrity chef teaches us all about tea
104 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_Contents.indd 104
25/01/2017 16:49
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
Turmeric Gold
TUDELEY
Kamrul Islam, owner of Turmeric Gold tells us about the restaurant’s success…
Tell us about the origins of Turmeric Gold… We started out almost nine years ago now, as a small restaurant with just 60 seats. It was previously an old pub, and needed everything doing to it. From day one, we were booming and really busy! The weekends proved particularly successful, some nights we would have 100 people sitting in the bar waiting for a table. Even after hearing the wait could be as long as an hour, they would choose to stay. As a result, it was pretty early on that we realised we needed to do something more, and so we added an extension upstairs. Even now, with all the extra seating, it doesn’t feel like enough on some nights. Are your suppliers local? Some are local, some are not. All our vegetables come from Spitalfields Market, which we collect three times a week. We use a local Tunbridge Wells butchers, Bookers, as well as a couple of butchers in Tonbridge and Southborough. How would you describe your menu to someone who doesn’t have any knowledge of Indian cuisine? A lot of our food isn’t Indian. In fact, most ‘Indian restaurants’ in England are actually serving solely Bangladeshi food. We do a mix of the two. The difference isn’t massive between the two, but in Bangladeshi cuisine
the sauces are thicker, cooked for longer and often spicier, whereas Indian food is often milder and watery. We have our own mix of contemporary and classic dishes – there’s probably about 20 of our own fusions on the menu that you can’t get anywhere else! We like to experiment with mixes involving ingredients like mango, honey, and coconut milk.
something with a lot of flavour, appealing to look at and a good portion size. I couldn’t narrow it down to one dish myself, as I eat curry about five or six days of the week. It’s funny as I do like lots of other foods, such as lasagne, Thai food and pasta, but even when I’m on holiday I miss a good curry by day two. It’s an addictive cuisine because there’s just so much variation.
What’s your ‘must try’ dish? Everyone’s going to love something different, and the variety here is so great that everyone will have their own personal favourite. A speciality dish would have to be
What does the future hold for Turmeric Gold? We are due to be extending our kitchen in the first week of March. It’s still a pub style design, and we are looking to expand that into being more open plan. We need to be able to fit more staff in the kitchen, as we have about a nine person capacity at the minute despite seating 160 people! This extension is less about customer capacity and just more to enhance customer experience by having a much more open plan feel. We want people to be able to see in to the kitchen and feel a part of the restaurant. Crockhurst St, Tudeley Tonbridge, TN11 0NT 01732 361 772 www.turmericgold.com SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 105
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_TurmericGold.indd 105
26/01/2017 14:38
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
Rendez Vous
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
Mark Harper, owner of Rendez Vous tells us about their French fancies…
How has the past year been for you? We have had another successful year, building on the foundations laid three years ago when we opened. It has been tough, especially with more new openings in the town, which in itself is great to see for Tunbridge Wells.
means that you do not have to travel far for your fish or meat. We encourage relationships with local farms and suppliers, visiting them ourselves to see them in action!
What sets you apart from other eateries? We really care about what we do and this you can see in the food and the service. The better we look after our customers, the more likely they are to return. We continue to see regular customers at the restaurant and also new local customers too, which is very encouraging for the business. Staying at number one on TripAdvisor for another year is also a great achievement for us.
What new food trends have you seen emerging? The good quality casual dining sector of our industry is continuing to grow which suits us because that is exactly where we see ourselves. Offering quality, value-for-money food in a relaxed environment.
What are your plans for the year ahead? To continue to offer the quality of food that we do at realistic prices, backed up by good honest service.
86 Camden Road Tunbridge Wells, Kent , TN1 2QP 01892 525 830 www.rendezvoustw.co.uk
What are your ‘must try’ dishes? Anything from our continually changing specials boards in each of the three areas of the restaurant. Any local seasonal produce appears on them and they change virtually on a daily basis! Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos We love the fact that having an independent restaurant on the Kent and Sussex border 106 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_Rendezvous.indd 106
25/01/2017 15:45
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Pantiles Café
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
Daniel Williams, owner of The Pantiles Café tells us what his eatery has in store for the year ahead
How has the past year been for you? After acquiring the café from the previous owner in September, a month of renovation work was undertaken for the particular business model we had in mind. We opened the doors on the first of October, possibly the wrong time of the year for The Pantiles but were pleasantly surprised with the response up to the end of the year. What new food trends have you seen emerging? There is definitely a trend toward more healthy and adventurous types of food, and the customer is more health aware. We’ve lost count of the amount of smashed avocado and salads we have sold bearing in mind the time of year. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? We are currently experimenting with new menu dishes which has been fun. The vote from the staff for the must try dish we will shortly be rolling out on our menu is sumac, fennel and lime salmon, with crushed peas, mint and feta on toasted sourdough bread – followed closely by steak on goat’s cheese with caramelised onion and mushroom with balsamic glaze on a choice of artisan bread. Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos We want to make eating both fun and an
adventurous experience by slowly introducing – initially as special dishes – different food types from around the Mediterranean and further afield. What are your plans for the year ahead? In respect of the year ahead we will be seasonally adjusting our menu; being in The Pantiles this will be our first year with the various events that occur. We are currently thinking along the lines of adventurous portable food along with the customary lighter style of dishes commensurate with the climate, along with some imaginative beverages. What sets you apart from other eateries? We use the highest quality produce that we can source locally and as we are not governed by a set menu you can eat creamy scrambled free range organic eggs and best smoked back bacon on a honey whole wheat toast, but don’t be surprised to see green chilli and coconut folded eggs, and instead of accompanying toast and jam, a green chilli and mango jam with warm naan bread. www.thepantilescafe.co.uk 42 The Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 107
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_PantilesCafe2.indd 107
25/01/2017 10:25
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
Hattons
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
Daniel Hatton, owner of Hattons on The Pantiles tells us about his business
How has the past year been for you? The past year has been a steep learning curve – we opened our doors on the 15th June 2016 and have been flat out ever since, as we offer not just great coffee, food and wine but also home products and gifts so have been a popular addition to The Pantiles and Tunbridge Wells. What is your culinary background? I trained in London under Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay so my training has been strict but extremely rewarding. In 2012 I was rewarded with a Michelin star at a restaurant I was heading up. Going into the café and event world of the industry has been remarkable, giving me the opportunity to spend time with my wife and son but also work with fantastic ingredients and talk food and drink with our customers. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? We offer a wide range of freshly produced homemade products, but our selection of salads are a real winner, being fresh, exciting, healthy, seasonal and made using local produce. They are great tasting, and being able to support local producers is a must and really important to us at Hattons. Can you give a food trend prediction for 2017? The food trend has moved again; we are finding a lot of influence from Scandinavia, Swedish
furniture as we know is extremely popular but it’s now the food and Scandinavian clean way of living, lifestyle and furnishings that are really gathering pace and I believe we shall see this continue this year. What are your plans for the year ahead? We are just concentrating on making Hattons bigger and better – from more food and drink options,to exciting and seasonal home products. We’re making outside more exclusive and special, and we have branded banners and parasol arriving ready for the summer, as I have now launched a wine company and wine club I will be offering exclusive wine tasting evenings on The Pantiles.
What sets you apart from other eateries? At Hattons we like to focus on being exciting and current offering the best customer service. We’re not just a coffee shop and eatery but a deli offering 20 different cheeses, fine cured hams, oils and vinegars and other amazing products from the local area and the rest of the world. As well as the food it’s all about gifts and the finer things for your home such as soft furnishings, lighting, candles and more. 38,The Pantiles Tunbridge Wells, Kent www.hattonsrtw.co.uk
108 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_Hattons2.indd 108
26/01/2017 14:43
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Warren
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
Sam Spratt, head chef of The Warren tells us about their simple and modern approach to dining Tell us about your approach to food The free range livestock that is available on the farm has helped to shape the ethos and drive of the restaurant: predominately a game restaurant but still serving a range of fish dishes from a local sustainable source, and foraging the local flora and fauna from the Estate. The restaurant has a heavy presence of seasonal products and the Estate is utilised for all it can offer from wild garlic and stinging nettles to chestnuts and plums. Mine and Raul (sous chef)’s approach is fronted by simplicity. We use classic, simple ingredients but bring in modern interpretations. We both believe flavour comes first and visual second. Everything we add to a dish is there for a purpose. We both believe local and seasonal is best and try to work closely with our suppliers and the Crowborough Warren Estate to bring in the highest quality produce.
How long have you been here? I started working at The Warren in March 2016 and took the position of head chef in December. My ideas are in keeping with the restaurant's ethos but in turn I have decided to interject some modern techniques while still working with classic ingredients. I strongly stand by the use of local free range produce which features heavily on our menu.
What’s your signature dish? Mine would be pork belly, braised cheek, purée, carpaccio and florets of cauliflower, pickled mushrooms, creamed potatoes and goat's cheese fondue. The textures all present something different for the palate and all compliment the naturally fatty pork belly. The sweetness is given by the florets, cooked in butter so only their natural sweetness comes out and the pickling of the mushrooms provides acidity to cut through the richness of the pork.
How is the dining scene changing, and can you give a food trend prediction for 2017? The whole team, front of house and kitchen believe the interest for sustainable and local produce will continue. Customers especially have a growing passion for the knowledge of food, how it was produced and where it has come from. There is more interest in wholesome food than fancy food.Television media and internet alike is full of chefs pushing everyone to use all cuts of meat such as mutton and goat which is not typically used.The nose to tail philosophy will continue to expand, we believe, which works very well for us as it gives us a chance to showcase the livestock we have on the Estate. At The Warren, we have an advantage, as our 650-acre estate in the Ashdown Forest is rich in livestock, from Sussex cattle and wild boar to venison and poultry. To be a great chef, you need to be… Our whole team has tremendous dedication and a huge passion for food. We all love trying new things and educating our customers, we give them a chance to try things they may never have had before or would not be able to taste elsewhere. We all work as a team and each brings something different to the table. We learn something new every day and that is what makes our restaurant work well. 5A High St, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1UL 01892 328 191 www.thewarren.restaurant
What’s your culinary background? I trained at Thanet College and started working at Tanners Restaurant, Plymouth (two rosettes, AA restaurant of the year) as commis chef. I then moved to The Curlew, Bodiam (two Rosettes, gained one Michelin star) as chef de partie for two years. I spent three years at Age and Sons, Ramsgate (Bib Gourmand) as sous chef, then took the head chef position at The Kentish Hare, Bidborough (two rosettes). I have learned a great deal from all the places I have worked and each experience has provided me with the knowledge and techniques that I use day to day with the running of the kitchen. SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 109
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_TheWarren.indd 109
25/01/2017 15:46
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Dorset Arms The Dorset Arms Public House in Withyham was built in the 16th century although didn’t become an alehouse until the 18th century. It is part of the historic Buckhurst Estate and is situated in the outstandingly beautiful Sussex Weald. The pub is named after the Earls and Dukes of Dorset, one time heads of the Sackville family, and shares a heritage of family ownership now headed by their
WITHYAM descendant, William Sackville, the 11th Earl De La Warr. Very much part of the local community, The Dorset Arms encourages local groups and clubs to meet there, and welcomes families and walkers with dogs. Aside from the comfortable, stylish and historic surroundings, it is the carefully selected wines, the fine ales and the quality of local dishes which attract repeat custom. Chef Simon Brazier, who has been at the pub since November 2014 likes to keep the food and dishes he creates simple, fresh, tasty and value for money. Being part of the Buckhurst Estate he uses as much of the produce as possible, for example the award winning herd of organic pure bred pedigree Sussex cattle and the famous Buckhurst Park sausages (Lord De La Warrs own recipe). Eggs are used from the estate and the Buckhurst sausage meat for the homemade scotch
eggs and during the season venison for burgers and steaks and the pheasants, partridge and duck is often featured on the menu in various guises. The Dorset Arms has a garden room with a retractable roof and during the summer months it can seat up to 30 diners outside. There are patio heaters so for those chilly nights, people can still dine outside. It is available for private hire and makes a great party venue and when the
110 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_DorsetArms.indd 110
26/01/2017 16:26
7 MEET THE CHEF 7
Simon Brazier sun is shining is a great sun trap. In addition to the popular pub there are also six beautiful bedrooms. Each with their own unique character and charm, they feature either a super king or king-size bed, an HD Freeview television, free wireless internet, and Nespresso machine. Four have both a bath and shower, one has a bath and one a shower only. It’s the ideal place for friends and family to stay whilst visiting. Rooms start at £105 which includes breakfast served in the pub Monday to Sunday. Described as the ‘little gem’ of East Sussex by The Good Food Guide 2016 this a proper pub with a bar with a dartboard, real ales and a water bowl for the dogs. At The Dorset Arms there is something for everyone. The Dorset Arms Buckhurst Park Withyham TN7 4BD 01892 770 278 www.dorset-arms.co.uk enquiries@dorset-arms.co.uk www.Facebook.com/TheDorsetArms ■ DESCRIPTION Traditional ■ OPENING TIMES Monday – Saturday Noon – 11pm Sunday Noon – 10.30pm ■ FOOD SERVED Monday – Saturday Noon – 2.30pm, 6pm – 9pm Sunday Noon – 4pm Sunday Supper 4pm – 8pm
CHEF
How long have you been at the pub? Since November 2014. What is you culinary background? A mix of classic, French and British. Tell us about your approach to food Keeping it simple, fresh, tasty and value for money. We also use locally and responsibly sourced ingredients – some of which we are lucky enough to receive from our estate, such as the Sussex organic cattle, venison, partridge, pheasant and rabbit. What’s your signature dish? Venison wellington, gratin dauphinoise potatoes, wilted baby spinach and game jus. How is the dining scene changing, and can you give a food trend prediction for 2017? Lots of places are using modern techniques and equipment which is pushing boundaries and taking the dining experience to a new level. I believe cheaper cuts and offal, such as kidney and liver are being eaten more by the consumer, which if executed correctly can be just as good as prime cuts. To be a great chef, you need to be… Passionate, have respect for the produce, dedicated, and have imagination and flare to push the boundaries.
SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 111
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_DorsetArms.indd 111
26/01/2017 16:26
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Bottle House Inn
PENSHURST
Head chef at The Bottle House, Alan Osborne tells us more about his culinary creations first fine dining restaurant so I was very excited. I worked under an amazing head chef gaining lots of experience and learning so many new techniques, which I then used to progress my career. I then moved to The Bottle House, where I have managed to achieve a personal goal and become head chef.
How long have you been here? I have worked at The Bottle House for just over five years. I started in October 2011 as junior sous chef and over those five years I have managed to work my way up to the role of head chef. What’s your culinary background? I wanted to become a chef from a young age; since my first baking experience in primary school making rock cakes I knew it was something I loved and enjoyed. I studied food technology at secondary school and then went on to train at Canterbury College for three years. I finished college and after a short spell working in France, I went on to work in a variety of kitchens. I then had an opportunity to go and work at a fantastic fine dining restaurant that had recently gained 2 AA rosettes – this was my
Tell us about your approach to food I always strive to use the best local fresh produce I possibly can. It’s great to be able to offer dishes knowing that all the ingredients sourced are fresh and local. Being able to offer seasonal specials is always great for us as chefs and the customers coming to enjoy the meals. One of my personal favourites is Penshurst lamb shoulder. The farm is behind the restaurant and the sheep graze in the field opposite the restaurant, which can be seen from the windows. What’s your signature dish? I have two signature dishes that I have on the menu, the first is a pulled pork scotch egg, hot flaked smoked salmon, asparagus and a chive hollandaise. The second dish is chilli and lime crusted hake fillet, buttered spinach, creamy mash and a curried cream. I’m very happy with both dishes – they taste amazing and they are always a firm favourite with the customers too. How is the dining scene changing, and can you give a food trend prediction for 2017? Personally I feel the dining scene and the food
trends for 2017 are heading in the same direction with healthy eating and locally sourced fresh produce at the forefront of people’s expectations. People will still always want good quality, home-cooked fresh food whether its seen as healthy or not, and as long as you capitalise on the seasons, offering warm hearty dishes in the colder months and light refreshing meals in the warmer months whilst all year round offering the healthier options that people are now looking for, then you can cater for everyone’s taste. To be a great chef, you need to be… Passionate, determined, hard working and most importantly believe in yourself! You need to be passionate about food and love the career as it’s hard work, especially at the beginning whilst you’re learning and getting used to the kitchen environment. It can take over your life at points but the rewards and satisfaction you can achieve out of it are great, knowing that the dishes you plan and work hard on creating and designing are one day going to be on a menu in a restaurant with people coming to enjoy them day and night. That is honestly a fantastic feeling and achievement. 15th Century Free House Coldharbour Road, Penshurst Kent, TN11 8ET 01892 870 306 info@thebottlehouseinnpenshurst.co.uk www.thebottlehouseinnpenshurst.co.uk
112 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_TheBottlehouse.indd 112
25/01/2017 16:17
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Tunbridge Wells Hotel
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
Owner of The Tunbridge Wells Hotel Julian Leefe-Griffiths tells us about his restaurant and his plans for the year ahead
How has the past year been for you? Spectacular! We have definitely had a busy year running all the jazz events, Soul Train, food festivals and markets taking place in The Pantiles. It has been incredibly hard work but really rewarding and fantastic to see more people coming along to The Pantiles and enjoying themselves! What new food trends have you seen emerging? More and more people are genuinely concerned about what they eat and the state of our planet. We get a lot of questions about exactly what goes into the food and where it sourced from, which is great because everything we have here is fresh and we always try to keep our suppliers local. We take local deer from the Ashdown Forest, pheasants from Buckhurst Park, cheese from Ash in Kent and fruit and vegetables from the garden of England. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? Well that’s a tricky question, because the answer really is, it depends on when you come. In winter, eat the pheasant saltimbocca. In the spring, a risotto primavera. Summer, lobster supplied by my friend Matt Sankey up the road and in autumn a bit of partridge with kale and chestnuts. We have a really fantastic kitchen team and our head chef, John Gerrard had brought great skill and organisation to the hotel, whether that is catering for an intimate dinner for 2 or a party of 100!
What are your plans for the year ahead? Together with The Pantiles Bandstand Events Company we are planning to put even more events on The Pantiles this summer. We really look forward to the food festivals and jazz just gets better and better (with help from our great friend Lionel, the best dressed man in Kent). If you haven’t been to Soul Train on Saturday night, you have got to try it – they are definitely not to be missed! New this year we will also have some antiques markets, wedding fairs and the vintage fair so there is a massive amount to look forward to throughout the year. If you want to put some dates in your diary, do check out the following websites: www.thetunbridgewellshotel.com, www.thepantiles.com or The Pantiles Markets and Events Facebook page. If you really want to keep abreast of everything happening here you can always ask to be put on our mailing list by emailing tara@thetunbridgewellshotel.com
What sets you apart from other eateries? Service, service, service. Consistency in service, quality of food, drinks variety and ambience. Michal Hrusc, the general manager, takes real care in the development of all the front of house team. Most of them have been with us since the start, so it really is like a little family. No one works from a script and we won’t try to upsell you anything. We just try to ensure that you have great food and attentive service in a relaxed and charming environment. 58 The Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, TN2 5TD 01892 530 501 www.thetunbridgewellshotel.com
Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos Our aim is always to deliver fantastic food in a friendly environment. It sounds simple, but is in fact quite tricky to accomplish. The one thing I think we do really well is we have fantastic front of house team. No one works from a script, we won’t try and upsell you everything, we just try and ensure that you have, great food and attentive service in a relaxed and charming environment. SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 113
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_TW_Hotel2.indd 113
26/01/2017 14:39
Untitled-13 1
26/01/2017 11:50
THE GOOD GRUB GUIDE
The Spa Hotel
TUNBRIDGE WELLS
The hotel’s head chef Alan Irwin tells us why The Spa is leading the way in culinary creations
How long have you been here? I joined The Spa back in July 2016 – it was an opportunity I couldn’t refuse. I saw great potential in it as one of the south east’s leading hotels and am particularly excited to be on board. What’s your culinary background? I’ve worked in the kitchens of some of the highest rated restaurants in the UK, including the Mulberry Tree, voted Best Restaurant in Kent twice whilst I was head chef. I’ve also worked within one and two Michelin starred kitchens, and was also a Ramsay and Roux scholarship finalist. Tell us about your approach to food? My motto is ‘the simpler the better’; my dishes aren’t overcrowded with different ingredients, but seasoned to perfection for maximum flavour. What’s your signature dish? Roasted hake with potted brown shrimps and English asparagus. How is the dining scene changing, and can you give a food trend prediction for 2017? People now want flexibility in their dining experience; eating out isn’t such a formal thing anymore. If they have the means people want to eat out two or three times a week, and menus and dining times need to be flexible to accommodate that. Here at The Spa we offer a variation in dining that you don’t find in
many places; people can come and enjoy a sandwich and cup of coffee or an exquisite four course candlelit dinner, both served at the highest of standards. To be a great chef, you need to be… Innovative, creative and have an indestructible work ethic. What are your plans for the year ahead? It’s a really exciting time for all of us at The Spa, following the extensive refurbishments that have taken place over the last few years we’re planning some big events with a high footfall in which we can showcase the building and grounds alongside some really incredible food. There’s so much in the pipeline for 2017 and it’s great to be able to put my creative side to good use and create bespoke menus which won’t be found anywhere else in town.We are particularly excited about our monthly Bottomless Brunches launching properly this year, they are the ‘in’ thing in London at the moment – so we thought we’d bring them to Tunbridge Wells. We did two in 2016 and the feedback was amazing, so we’ve got a stellar menu lined up and booked a resident DJ – bottomless booze is just the icing on the cake. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? There’s a lot to choose from! Our afternoon tea is pretty special, you won’t find anything like it in Tunbridge Wells; we’ve taken a classic British favourite and made it unique to The Spa. As for
other dishes, our menu is constantly developing and evolving so it’s hard to pick just one – our roasts are one of a kind though! What sets you apart from other eateries? Again, the flexibility with our menu is something you don’t see often in other places.We are always making seasonal changes to the menu so that our repeat customers don’t see the same menu twice, of course we keep a couple of favourites on there constantly to cater to everyone’s taste. We also have two contrasting eateries meaning our guests can stay for two nights and enjoy two completely different dining experiences. Mount Ephraim Tunbridge Wells Kent,TN4 8XJ www.spahotel.co.uk
SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 115
SO TW_FEB17_GoodGrubGuide_SpaHotel.indd 115
26/01/2017 14:36
DRINK
WINEClub
N O W T H AT D R Y J A N UA R Y I S O V E R , I T ’ S T I M E D I G O U T T H E C O R K S C R E W A N D E X PA N D Y O U R PA L AT E B Y E X P E R I M E N T I N G W I T H A N E W S E L E C T I O N O F W I N E S …
Underappreciated and under-priced "What to drink more of? The key is exploration, exploration and exploration," says Ewan Murray, PR manager for The Wine Society, the world's oldest wine club. "The classics have always been there, and always will be, but there is so much else to be enjoyed from around the world at rather excellent prices to broaden horizons. "Why not try something from, say, Moldova or Uruguay," adds Murray, who recommends Juanico Benteveo Chardonnay 2015, Juanico, Uruguay (£7.50, www.thewinesociety.com), an unoaked and lively chard with a hint of honey, along with Individo Feteasca, Chateau Vartely 2015, Moldova (£8.50, www.thewinesociety.com), a soft and fruity red made from feteasca neagra, the region's oldest native grape.
Salt of the earth "Mount Etna (in the north east of Sicily) is a special place and the power of the mountain is captivating," says Davy Zyw, wine buyer, Laithwaites, who works with a few different wineries on the north and south of the volcano. "Our Nicosia Classic 2013, Etna Rosso, DOC, Italy (£12.49, www.laithwaites.co.uk) launched last year and has been flying out the door. "Stylistically, it sits between Burgundy and Piedmont - serious, perfumed wines with intensity, minerality and tension. The wine is a blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, both varieties indigenous to the region, which gives a unique fruity character and an electric volcanicity."
Hot property Situated in the north of Chile, the Elqui Valley was previously a little-known wine region until Vina Falernia put it on the wine lovers' map. A mecca for astronomers due to its high altitude, clarity of air and rural setting, Elqui has some of the most famous observatories in the world as the light is so pure, meaning it's perfect for star gazing... and winemaking. "The light is also perfect for the photosynthesis of vines, which translates into extra colour, ripeness and generosity of flavour, like our Alta Tierra Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2015, Elqui Valley, Chile (£10.49, www.laithwaites.co.uk), and Alta Tierra Carmenere Gran Reserva 2013, Elqui Valley, Chile (£12.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk)," says Zyw. Both are produced by the Falernia winery, who saw the potential for producing fine wines (with added complexity) in this semi-arid valley that benefits from the altitude and freshness offered by the mountains, compared to the fertile flat heartlands of the Central Valley.
(£14.95, www.fromvineyardsdirect.com) for its freshness and "nose full of fruit and hint of creamy nuttiness that enlivens the taste buds", and the fact that it's made from very high-quality grapes.
Buying tip for Bordeaux A claret for keeps, if you're not familiar with some of the lesser known Bordeaux regions, Johnstone cites Fronsac (on the Right Bank) as the Bordeaux to be feted by savvy wine lovers. "Fronsac is Bordeaux's forgotten appellation that lives in St Emilion's shadow. It often makes better wines at very
Cremant c'est chic If you want to find wines with personality, FromVineyardsDirect.com deliver wine direct from the vineyard to the buyer (cutting out the middle man) and they tip cremant as the next favourite sparkling wine. "A gorgeous French champagne-like sparkling wine with lower acidity and alcohol, it's half the price of its champagne equivalent (or English for that matter), and a big step up from Prosecco," says Esme Johnstone, managing director, who recommends Cremant de Bourgogne Millesime, Cave de Lugny 2013, France
116 \ FEBRUARY 2017 \ SO Magazine
SO TW_FEB17_Food_Wine.indd 116
26/01/2017 16:40
DRINK
much lower prices. Many of Bordeaux's most famous wine makers have their own vineyards there, for example, worldrenowned wine consultant, Michel Rolland," says Johnstone. He recommends Chateau La Vieille Cure Fronsac 2004, Bordeaux, France (£19.95, www.fromvineyardsdirect.com), a mature Bordeaux from a respectable vintage that's drinking beautifully and offers jammy fruit and savoury flavours from its predominantly merlot base. In perfect balance as it approaches peak maturity, Johnstone says the 2004 is a claret to be savoured now.
Roaming down under "In recent years, the pendulum has swung away from the rich, overly oaky styles of chardonnay and jammy shiraz here in Australia," says Mitchell Taylor, managing director and third generation winemaker at Wakefield Wines in the cool Clare Valley, South Australia. Taylor reveals there's been a movement towards very lean styles of chardonnay and highly restrained fruit in the reds – Shiraz and cabernet wines – almost to the point of being ungenerous and not always delicious to drink. "In 2017, you will see the pendulum swing back a little towards wines with more
balance or, as our winemaker Adam Eggins likes to call it, 'powerful elegance' – wines with more fruit character and full flavours, but with judicious use of oak and delicacy of winemaking. "We recommend revisiting classic Aussie wines like our Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz - both available in Majestic nationwide, to see this for yourselves." Wakefield Estate Shiraz 2015, Clare Valley, Australia (£11.99, or £8.99 mix 6, Majestic) Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Clare Valley, Australia (£11.99, or £8.99 mix 6, Majestic).
SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 117
SO TW_FEB17_Food_Wine.indd 117
26/01/2017 16:40
Untitled-12 2
25/01/2017 10:32
FOOD
THOUGHT FOR FOOD Our celebrity chef Rosemary Shrager is putting on the kettle and talking about tea and its origins… This month I want to talk about tea. Little did I know until I started to research the history the different kinds of tea and how they can help and affect us. Tea started to be sold in the UK in the coffee shops in the 17th century – it was enjoyed then by the wealthy. Tea became a common beverage in the mid-18th century, and came to replace gin and ale as a drink for the people.
Tea had been around in China for thousands of years, they say that the Yunnan province is the birthplace of drinking and eating tea. According to the stories, tea drinking started around 1500BC – 1046BC as a medical drink. It is believed that there are around 1,500 different varieties of tea each offering a varied tea drinking experience.
White Tea: This originates from China, mostly from the Fujian province, but is also produced in Eastern Nepal, Taiwan, Thailand, and India. The reason it’s called white tea is because the leaves are often immature leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, sometimes picked before the buds are fully formed, so the name comes from the fine silvery white hairs on the unopened buds of the tea plant. It has a low level of caffeine.
aromas or woody and thick with a roasted smell, depending on the process and style of production. There is a real art to making this tea, the manufacture is intricate because some of the basic steps involved in making it is repeated many times before the desired amount of bruising and browning of the leaves is achieved. Then we get on to temperature of the firing. This is a skill that is still going. This tea has to be one of the most exquisite teas tasted.
Green Tea: There are so many green teas and they are grown in a
variety of ways. This tea originates from China and Japan, the most common is Jasmine green tea but this is just one of many. Because of its low caffeine content, and being 5% to 10% higher in anti-oxidant levels, it is said it’s a healthy alternative drink.
Oolong Tea: This tea originates from China and Taiwan. The caffeine in this tea is around 10% to 15% and the flavour is somewhere between green and a black tea. There are many varied forms of taste – they can be sweet and fruity with honey
The one thing that has surprised me is that tea mostly comes from one plant, and it’s in the soil, area, picking, process, and production that changes its flavouring. Good tea is very expensive, but you can use the leaves over and over; you have to do the golden drop which is the last drop in the pot, then leave the leaves and just add water when you are ready for another cuppa. In the UK we now have new plantations starting up. The three that I would like to suggest, are: ELIXIR living tea, they do the Oolong tea and many others, Tregothnan in Cornwall, who deal mainly in black tea, and Dalreach tea in the foothills of the
Black tea: This originates from China and India, and is our common tea,
builder’s tea, also Lapsan Sou Chon, traditional breakfast tea, Darjeeling… I would be here forever if I continued with the list, there are just too many. The tea is black because it’s more oxidized.
Rooibos: Only growing in South Africa Western cape at the moment, its translation is red bush tea. This tea has good health properties – it’s not the Camellia Sinensis plant it’s a herb, high in Vitamin C and antioxidants, and totally free of caffeine. They add all sorts of infusion to be enjoyed.
Scottish highlands, who do white tea and black tea, with a selection of infusions. I have only skimmed this subject, but hopefully next time you relax with a cup of tea, you’ll be thinking about all of the processes involved. Speak next time
SO Magazine / FEBRUARY 2017 / 119
SO TW_FEB17_Food_RosemaryShraeger.indd 119
25/01/2017 16:01