The Good Grub Guide 2016 by One Media

THE

GOOD GRUB GUIDE 2016

TOM KERRIDGE

WHY THE CELEB CHEF WORKS ‘ON CAFFEINE AND ADRENALINE’

BEST of BRITISH

FIND OUT ABOUT SUSSEX AND KENT’S QUALITY ENGLISH FARE

ALL INN KEEPING

TRADITIONAL COUNTRY PUBS ARE ALIVE AND WELL WHERE WE LIVE

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TOP PRODUCE

DISCOVER THE REGION’S FINEST AND FRESHEST INGREDIENTS

WELLS on A PLATE

SOME OF THE BEST EATERIES FROM PEMBURY TO THE PANTILES

STARS IN THEIR EYES

THERE ARE MICHELIN MEALS TO SAVOUR ALL AROUND THE WEALD

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GRUB’S UP… Welcome to the latest edition of the Jolly Good Grub Guide – we hope you’re hungry! Within these pages, you’ll discover a mouth-watering array of gastronomic gems across west Kent and East Sussex. Being based in our beautiful part of the world, chefs have access to some of the best local produce in the country, a resource that’s put to very good use at these high-quality eateries. When you add our breath-taking Wealden scenery to the equation, it all adds up to a spectacular foodie scene. So, where will your gourmet adventures take you this year? Will you pull up a chair in a picturesque country pub, ready to tuck into their local, seasonal and traditional British dishes? Or are you in the mood for a Michelin-starred meal set against the elegant backdrop of a 16th-century country manor? A selection of the region’s most divine English food is on the menu, alongside some modern European flavours to savour and sink your teeth into. But why choose? When there’s such an exquisite food and drink offering right here on our doorstep, surely we have a duty to try it all...

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

CONTENTS 08 THE

13 THE

21 GRAVETYE

26 THE

ABERGAVENNY ARMS Discover a new look in this 15th-century coaching inn

RIVERSIDE Head to Lamberhurst for the finest British cuisine

MANOR Michelin-starred menus are on offer near East Grinstead

10 THE CHASER INN

14 THE

22 THE TUNBRIDGE

QUEEN’S INN Majestic food and drink awaits in the Kentish village of Hawkhurst

Visit the first of Whiting & Hammond’s culinary empire

CAMDEN ARMS Traditional fare meets some foreign flavours in Pembury

WELLS HOTEL Eat, drink and sleep in the spa town’s historic Pantiles

16 THE MARK

24 BILL’S

CROSS INN Whiting & Hammond’s third pub has great views

The popular chain is right at home in Tunbridge Wells

11 CAMDEN QUARTER Modern European in the heart of Tunbridge Wells

12 THE LITTLE BROWN JUG There’s plenty on offer at W&H’s second country pub

17 RENDEZ-VOUS Enjoy a first-class French meal in Tunbridge Wells

25 THE CHANDELIER RESTAURANT Delicious modern British is available at The Spa Hotel

28 TOM KERRIDGE How the celeb chef added a Michelin touch to pub grub

30 THE BRECKNOCK ARMS Why this Sussex inn is embracing itsrural roots

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

ABERGAVENNY ARMS, FRANT The refurbished 15th-century coaching inn gets a new look, as manager Digby Harvey explains TELL US ABOUT THE BACKGROUND OF THE RESTAURANT The Abergavenny Arms was bought by Richard Burrell in summer 2015 and underwent an extensive refurbishment to bring the style and atmosphere of the pub up to the modern day, while being sensitive to the historical integrity of the building. My involvement began in October 2015 when I was asked to come on board as the general manager. With over 13 years’ experience in both branded and private pubs and restaurants, and after a brief stint as a recruitment consultant, I saw this as a great opportunity to get back into the industry that I love. HOW HAS THE PLACE DEVELOPED OVER THE PAST YEAR? Much has changed following the refurbishment, from increasing the range of ales on offer, to creating a fresh and contemporary new menu with the help of our head chef Giles Fulcher.

Anybody who has visited the pub in the last few months will see a dramatic change in the ambience, food, drink and standard of service. IN WHAT WAYS DOES YOUR CHEF BRING THEIR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? Giles is very passionate about local, fresh produce and is excited to be bringing an inherently British menu to the Abergavenny Arms, as well as adding his own flair. Giles has previous experience working with some of the UK’s top pub companies, and we are excited to have him on board, bringing his knowledge and passion to our team. He likes to either cook classic flavour combinations in an unusual way, or cook unusual flavour combinations in a classic way; something that is familiar yet unique to the guest, while also seeing the importance of providing the classic pub favourites! WHAT’S THE MOST POPULAR DISH ON YOUR MENU? Our signature dish is a wild mushroom

“Our ethos is fresh, local produce, and a great British menu. We believe in staying true to the fact that we are a small village pub”

garden, a celeriac purée, braised cep mushrooms and soil made from wild mushrooms, pistachio and truffle oil. This creates a natural look on the plate, and the inspiration comes from going for country walks with family around the area. With such beautiful countryside views in Frant, it’s hard not to take inspiration from what is around us. DO YOU PROMOTE FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL PRODUCE? Being a local business, we strive to support other local businesses in and around Tunbridge wells as best we can, and not only because they are local, but because we believe local is best and Kent really does have so much to offer. Wherever possible, we will always buy locally; however, some ingredients will always need to be sourced from further afield. Local produce, in our eyes, will always be the best. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT FOR PEOPLE TO SUPPORT INDEPENDENT RESTAURANTS? Although chain restaurants and pubs have their place and offer good-quality food, often at reasonable prices, they are, however, mass-produced and often offer tastes from further afield rather than closer to home. There is no great British chain restaurant that can supply the best of what Britain has to offer. For this, we must return to our local businesses, which enable us to sample great food that has been created by the passion of individuals, rather than the panel of a corporate company. Only local businesses support local industry, and at the Abergavenny Arms, this is one of our top priorities. HAS THE ETHOS AND APPROACH TO FOOD AND DRINK EVOLVED IN YOUR MENUS? Our ethos is fresh, local produce, and a great British menu. We believe in staying true to the fact that we are a small village

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RESTAURANT: Abergavenny Arms ADDRESS: Frant Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 9DB TEL: 01892 750 233 WEB: www.abergavennyarms.co.uk EMAIL: abergavennyarms@outlook.com OPENED: 2015 CUISINE: Traditional and modern British MANAGER: Digby Harvey HEAD CHEF: Giles Fulcher STARTERS FROM: £4.75 MAINS FROM: £8.95 DESSERTS FROM: £4.95 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £4.30 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £15.70

pub, and therefore we do serve dishes that you would find in any good country pub; however, we also offer interesting new dishes with exciting flavour combinations. Every young chef is desperate to fill the plate with flavours, and often overload the plate with too many, but as you mature, you become more refined, and cook good-quality ingredients, cooked well and cooked interestingly. With our beers, we believe in providing some of the best bitters that Kent and Sussex have to offer, with Harvey’s Best having a prominent, permanent position behind our bar. But it’s not just local ale producers we believe in supporting, and we will now be serving Curious Brew by Chapel Down Brewery in Tenterden. We pride ourselves in offering highquality table service in a very relaxed way, therefore providing the convenience and enjoyment of the service you might expect in a restaurant, but in a homely, cosy environment.

HAVE YOU NOTICED MANY TRENDS EMERGING IN THE FOOD AND DRINK INDUSTRY? The food and drink market is changing within the pub industry, and it is definitely becoming more of a food-led concept, with a considerable emphasis on offering high-quality food in a restaurant environment, designed and cooked by a top-quality chef, while enjoying a relaxed and cosy atmosphere (ideally by a log fire!). It is also about offering value for money to guests, which is why we have started our steak and lobster nights on Wednesday evenings, and our new lunch set menu. This enables guests to enjoy the high-quality food they expect, at a great price. People in general are eating out more, as our way of living is more fast-paced, but are becoming more and more health conscious; therefore, a great healthy, home-cooked meal that doesn’t break the bank is extremely desirable.

AND WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT FROM YOUR FOOD AND DRINK OFFERING GOING FORWARD? Following current trends, our guests can expect more great-quality food, and great-quality beers and ales. With our menu changing regularly, there is always something new to try. FINALLY, WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES AND PREDICTIONS FOR THE COMING YEAR? Following our refurbishment in late 2015, and to be so warmly welcomed by the locals in Frant and surrounding areas, we are very much looking forward to what this year brings. We hope to see more and more new regular faces coming through the door to enjoy what the Abergavenny Arms has to offer.

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THE CHASER INN, SHIPBOURNE

Find out where it all began for the award-winning Whiting & Hammond pub and restaurant group

RESTAURANT: The Chaser Inn ADDRESS: Stumble Hill, Shipbourne, Kent TN11 9PE TEL: 01732 810 360 WEB: www.thechaser.co.uk EMAIL: bookings@thechaser.co.uk OPENED: 2003 CUISINE: Traditional English MANAGER: Craig White HEAD CHEF: Daniel Curtis STARTERS FROM: £5.50 MAINS FROM: £9.95 DESSERTS FROM: £5.50 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £3.80 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £15.95

It dates back to 1880 when it was built by the Cazalet family, who owned the huge estate, which ran from the south-west side of Shipbourne, through to the neighbouring village of Plaxtol to the north. In fact, Major Peter Cazalet trained the Queen Mother’s horses personally; upon her arrival to visit them, the jockeys would wait in the Chaser’s now affectionately named ‘Jockey Room’ to meet her. Celebrated for its mouth-watering Sunday lunch, there is no better place to enjoy this delicious tradition than the enormously popular Church Room, a stunning oak-beamed dining area, complete with a roaring fire, where friends and family can gather to enjoy the most cherished of weekly meals, as well as a number of other special occasions. It is this sense of time-honoured tradition, rooted in a comfortable, friendly and home-grown environment that has made The Chaser the success story it is today. Indeed, while we at Whiting & Hammond have certainly come a long way since the pub’s grand opening all those years ago, it will always hold a special place in our hearts as a reminder of just how far we have taken our vision, from its humble beginnings to

current success, as well as being a clue to the potential that still lies ahead. After all, in the pursuit of world domination, you couldn’t ask for a more appropriate starting point than the thrill of The Chaser.

PETE SHEPHERD

WELCOME TO THE one that started it all. As our maiden voyage into the uncharted seas of hospitality and catering, it has been smooth sailing for this tremendous tavern since we took over the helm. The Chaser well and truly got the ball rolling when we acquired it from Greene King in the summer of 2003. It was a big refurbishment at this beautiful site; we relocated the kitchen and toilets and increased the overall capacity to 90 covers. As a result, the pub became an instant hit with the locals and has accumulated a number of awards over the years, including runner-up for Kent’s Best Pub at the Taste of Kent Awards three years running, as well as winner of the London24 Food and Drink Award for Best Gastro Pub, and the very prestigious National Publican Food and Drink Award for Sunday Lunch Pub of the Year. Taking its name from the local Fairlawne Estate where the Queen Mother’s steeple-chase horses were trained (including Devon Loch, who collapsed just before the line in the 1956 Grand National), The Chaser is situated next door to the beautiful church of St Giles and opposite a large grassy common with spectacular views.

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CAMDEN QUARTER, TUNBRIDGE WELLS We hear from general manager Gerry Stevens about what’s on offer at the spa town eatery

RESTAURANT: Camden Quarter ADDRESS: 26-28 Camden Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 2PT TEL: 01892 544 533 WEB: www.camdenquarter.co.uk EMAIL: info@camdenquarter.co.uk OPENED: 2013 CUISINE: Modern European with flavours from around the world MANAGER: Gerry Stevens HEAD CHEF: Alex Blaber STARTERS FROM: £6.50 MAINS FROM: £12 DESSERTS FROM: £6.50 WINE BY THE GLASS: £4.10 WINE BY THE BOTTLE: £16.50

IN WHAT WAYS DOES YOUR CHEF BRING THEIR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? We have a small and young brigade of chefs. In their early 20s, our head chef Alex Blaber and sous chef Jake Swayne both cut their teeth at the three-Rossette, five-star Newick Park Country Hotel. This formal and disciplined kitchen gave them both a great foundation. They have grown the business by evolving our menus to fit this very different market. When Camden Quarter opened in December 2013, it had a breakfast and all-day/night menu. We now have a weekday breakfast menu, a daytime menu, an evening menu, a canapé menu, a private dining and conference menu, and we are now about to add a small plate menu for our upstairs cocktail bar. IS THERE A SIGNATURE DISH THAT’S ALWAYS POPULAR? We change our menu as much as possible to keep up with the seasons and evolving trends, however some stalwarts will remain, such as our 28-day aged beef, which we serve as a rump and rib eye steak. Our tempura squid starter has

remained on the menu for the last two years due to popular demand. We are owned by Turners Fine Foods, so have access to some interesting products that are new to the market. We have just received a tub of Bee Pollen, so are exploring ways to incorporate that into a dish. We have started cooking some of our fish in dehydrated cocoa butter; this is healthier than oil and butter and has a higher burn temperature, which helps crisp the skin, while keeping the fish moist. DO YOUR MENUS PROMOTE FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL PRODUCE? Where possible, we use local suppliers; Turners, our owners, are based in Goudhurst and supply all our meat and dry produce. We use Sankey’s for our fish goods and Leonards of Covent Garden for our fruit and vegetables. Perk & Pearl, based in Tunbridge Wells, provide our interesting range of teas and coffees. Local breweries such as Curious and Westerham provide some of our draft and bottled beer. Being in Kent, there are new and interesting microbreweries opening, so we are always

happy to support these local companies. We are about to stock Pig & Porter, a local brewery based in High Brooms. WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT FROM YOUR FOOD AND DRINK OFFERING GOING FORWARD? We are looking to expand our food offering in our upstairs cocktail bar, incorporating small plates and light bites. Our cocktail bar is still relatively unknown, as it is above our restaurant, so therefore not visible from the street. We are open on Friday and Saturday nights, but will soon open on Thursday nights as well. It is a small and intimate space with a very different look and feel to the restaurant. We have put a lot of thought into our cocktail menu, trying to add a bit of fun to them. One of the cocktails is called a Disco Passion, which comes with a glow stick and glow straw. We are happy to make the classic cocktails, but hope our customers will try something new. We are talking to our beer, wine and drink suppliers about food and drink pairing nights, which s hould be fun and informative.

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THE LITTLE BROWN JUG, CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY Dine in unique Whiting & Hammond style with your very own tiki hut

RESTAURANT: The Little Brown Jug ADDRESS: Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent, TN11 8JJ TEL: 01892 870 318 WEB: www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk EMAIL: enquiries@thelittlebrownjug.co.uk OPENED: 2006 CUISINE: Traditional English MANAGER: Janet Webb HEAD CHEF: Steve Ednie STARTERS FROM: £5.95 MAINS FROM: £9.95 DESSERTS FROM: £4.95 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £3.80 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £14.95

experience that makes The Little Brown Jug stand out in its own right. As the head office of the Whiting & Hammond family and the first to host the now legendary beer festivals, this rural country retreat is where the magic really happens. Formerly known as The Station on account of its close proximity to Penshurst railway station, The ‘LBJ’, as it is affectionately known, also lies in between Chiddingstone and Leigh, where community and farming have a very strong influence. Initially employing the expertise of six chefs, we immediately got to work, implementing new and exciting additions to the company’s increasingly popular menu, while our friendly staff cultivated an air of neighbourly familiarity with

every customer who came in, a quality that still defines it to this day. In a village where everyone knows everyone, it wasn’t long before the local punters made it a regular haunt, creating a communal, familial atmosphere with every pint pulled. That’s not to say that newcomers aren’t welcome, of course; it has also built a reputation as a hospitable and inviting watering hole for drinkers and diners from far and wide. 2009 saw the pub reach the finals as Food Pub of the Year in the Publican Awards, while the assistant manager was also named a finalist for Barman of the Year. It just goes to show that there is still something to be said for doing things the old-fashioned way.

PETE SHEPHERD

FOR OUR THIRD venture, we decided to go smaller, but continued to think big with The Little Brown Jug in Chiddingstone Causeway. Following the previous owner’s decision to cease trading, we were again approached by Greene King with an offer we couldn’t refuse, jumping at the chance to take on this exciting new project in April 2006. Opening with a small team from our existing establishments, this latest operation boomed and saw an abundance of new faces passing through its doors. Ever the perfectionists, we decided to close for six weeks in February of the following year for a major refurbishment, including moving the pub’s kitchen once more. As a result, turnover doubled and continues to grow to this day, with punters being drawn to the pub’s sleepy, idyllic location in the small Kentish village, not to mention the open-plan layout, filled with rustic bookshelves, cosy corners and a roaring wood burner, which we have endeavoured to make as inviting as it is charming. Additionally, three distinctive and immensely popular huts have also been set up in the beer garden, creating a fantastic, one-of-a-kind dining

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THE RIVERSIDE, LAMBERHURST The finest British cuisine in a relaxed environment awaits at the heart of this idyllic village

RESTAURANT: The Riverside ADDRESS: School Hill, Lamberhurst, Kent TN3 8DQ TEL: 01892 890 277 WEB: www.theriverside.uk.com EMAIL: info@theriverside.uk.com OPENED: 2015 CUISINE: British MANAGER: Chris Larman HEAD CHEF: Miguel D’sa STARTERS FROM: £5.99 MAINS FROM: £9.99 DESSERTS FROM: £5.99 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £4.40 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £15.95

TELL US ABOUT THE BACKGROUND OF THE RESTAURANT Chris and Jana bought The Riverside in September 2015. They quickly realised that there was a gap in the market for fresh, local produce. Based in the heart of Kent, they have access to great local farmers who they love to support, along with the fresh fish, which is delivered daily from the old fishing ports of Hastings and Rye. The restaurant has a wonderful garden and terrace, which overlooks the picturesque River Teis. IN WHAT WAYS DOES YOUR CHEF BRING THEIR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? The chef has many years’ experience in London, and was the executive chef at the Tate Modern. The menu reflects the

changing of the seasons, which inspires his creative flair, enabling him to offer the customers a culinary experience rarely found outside of London. DO YOU CATER FOR DIFFERENT DIETARY REQUIREMENTS? Everything in the restaurant is freshly made to order, meaning they can cater for coeliac, vegetarians and people with other allergies. They believe that this gives them a significant edge over the larger restaurant chains. HOW DOES THE RIVERSIDE STAND OUT? To enhance the dining experience, a pianist plays every Saturday night, and

various tribute acts, including Sinatra, Abba and a duet that have played at the top London hotels, are regularly enjoyed. The Riverside also provides a VIP chauffeur-driven transfer service, to transport people to and from their homes for less than the cost of a taxi; alternatively, you could stay in one of the very reasonably-priced rooms from as little as £49! WHAT ELSE CAN VISITORS LOOK FORWARD TO? Based just 15 minutes from Tunbridge Wells, why not come and spoil yourself in the character-filled, 14th-century restaurant? They can cater for an intimate dining experience, or parties for up to 75 people. We hope to see you very soon!

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THE CAMDEN ARMS, PEMBURY There’s never been a better time to enjoy top pub grub in this Tunbridge Wells village TELL US ABOUT THE RESTAURANT’S ETHOS WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD We have always offered quality food, but now we are really striving to use as much local produce as possible in our dishes, not only to support our local community and economy, but because Kent has some of the best produce on offer. Everything is prepared fresh and is the result of inspiration and product availability, so the menu changes frequently, depending on what has been grown, picked or delivered that day. We promote local produce here at The Camden Arms – we already utilise a lot of Kent’s best items, and will be adding much more to our new menus in 2016.

been proprietors at The Camden Arms for over 13 years, and have been in the catering industry for over 40 years. Located in the centre of the village of Pembury, The Camden Arms was a challenge when we first took it over, but building its reputation has been very rewarding. With the addition of a 15-room accommodation wing six years ago, this 17th-century coaching inn could again call itself ‘The Camden Arms Hotel’. The hotel brings guests from all over the world, and we have added a few continental dishes to our menu in appreciation of our short-staying guests. Today, James and Carol are very much at ‘the helm’ , but we’re proud that it is a family-run business, with true family values.

HOW AND WHEN DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH THE PLACE? We – James and Carol Cunningham – have

DESCRIBE THE TYPES OF DISHES ON YOUR MENU Simple, stylish dining. Our restaurant

offers a variety of dishes to complement Kentish produce. We pride ourselves on creating excellent food using fresh, local ingredients. In the summer months, you can enjoy dining alfresco on our sun terrace. Our menu is available daily between noon and 9pm, and offers simplistic dining in a casual atmosphere, plus on Sunday we offer a three-meat carvery. No problem if you require gluten-free, vegan or vegetarian dishes; just let us know when making your room or table reservation, as nothing is too much trouble for Chef and his team. WHAT ARE YOUR ‘MUST- TASTE’ DISHES? The Camden Arms’ bestseller is the Sunday carvery – at under £11, it’s a good reason not to cook a Sunday roast! But our ‘must-taste’ dishes have to

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RESTAURANT: The Camden Arms ADDRESS: 1 High Street, Pembury, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 4PH TEL: 01892 822 012 WEB: www.camdenarms.co.uk EMAIL: food@camdenarms.co.uk OPENED: 2002 CUISINE: Traditional with international influences MANAGER: James Cunningham STARTERS FROM: £4.25 MAINS FROM: £9.95 DESSERTS FROM: £2.75 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £3.80 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £13.95

include the sizzling fajitas, served with either beef or chicken; the smell as they are brought sizzling to the table is only the prelude to the effect on the taste buds! We are also proud of our homemade puddings and pies, deeply filled and cooked to order. WHAT SETS YOUR PLACE APART FROM THE OTHERS? A good menu, fresh produce and good service are words used by everyone in this publication, and while very important, they are prerequisites for any successful restaurant. What sets us apart is our whole business ethos: innovation – the desire to present local meat, vegetables and fruit ingredients in new and exciting ways; quality – every product we make is made to the highest quality and standard of presentation; sustainability – our food is locally sourced wherever possible, from ethical and likeminded suppliers; relationships – we strive to build good relationships with our customers, colleagues and suppliers; and enjoy – we simply love food. We want you to enjoy your experience with us at The Camden Arms Hotel. CAN YOU DESCRIBE YOUR RESTAURANT IN FIVE WORDS? No, just one – great!

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THE MARK CROSS INN, MARK CROSS Spectacular views can be enjoyed from this East Sussex pub’s garden

RESTAURANT: The Mark Cross Inn ADDRESS: Mark Cross, East Sussex TN6 3NP TEL: 01892 852 423 WEB: www.themarkcross.co.uk EMAIL: enquiries@themarkcross.co.uk OPENED: 2006 CUISINE: Traditional Engliah MANAGER: Amy Glenie HEAD CHEF: Amos Burrows STARTERS FROM: £5.95 MAINS FROM: £9.95 DESSERTS FROM: £4.95 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £2.80 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £14.95

Inside, we made great use of the large space that was available. Much like The Little Brown Jug, the open-plan design was hugely beneficial, allowing us to be creative with the pub’s interior. So, whether you’re just popping by for a cheeky half or settling in for a full-blown three-course meal, there is a lively bar to prop up, as well as more intimate, secluded dining areas for those special occasions with your nearest and dearest. On that note, The Mark Cross has become a favourite among Whiting & Hammond aficionados, not least because of its charming staff and impeccable customer service. It has been recognised as the South East Food Pub of the Year and a finalist for Food Pub of the Year at the Morning Advertiser Great British

Pub Awards, as well as winning Customer Service Pub of the Year and reaching the finals of the Sunday Lunch Pub of the Year category at the Publican Food and Drink Awards. Furthermore, it also reached the finals in three different areas of the 2010 Publican Food and Drink Awards, namely Customer Service Pub of the Year, Barman of the Year and British Food Pub of the Year. The beauty of a pub like The Mark Cross is that every customer who comes in has their own personal story, memory or anecdote about the pub, which is hugely important to us – listening to people’s personal experiences through time helps create the pub’s own unique history.

PETE SHEPHERD

TAKE A SERENE saunter through the heart of the East Sussex countryside – just don’t forget to pop in for a pint at The Mark Cross Inn along the way! The fourth notch on the Whiting & Hammond belt was added in September 2006, when we happily purchased the lease of this extraordinary pub near Tunbridge Wells. What drew us to this new location was the view; we knew that the rolling hills and luscious greenery of the Sussex landscape would be a key factor in drawing in customers, who love nothing more than an ice-cold cider on a warm summer’s day in their local pub garden. Once again, wanting to get the most out of this new development before it relaunched, we immediately shut down the pub for an intensive 12-week renovation, which included a substantially enlarged kitchen, as well as the installation of brand new toilets. The Whiting & Hammond formula that had served us so well up until now naturally went down a storm. What’s more, it became even more effective in the summer months, with families being able to enjoy our wholesome dishes in the garden and patio dining areas.

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RENDEZ-VOUS, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Owner Mark Harper tells us what to expect from Camden Road’s French brasserie

RESTAURANT: Rendez-Vous ADDRESS: 86 Camden Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 2QP TEL: 01892 525 830 WEB: www.rendezvoustw.co.uk EMAIL: info@rendezvoustw.co.uk OPENED: 2013 CUISINE: Brasserie with French influences OWNER/MANAGER: Mark Harper HEAD CHEF: John Boreham STARTERS FROM: £4.50 MAINS FROM: £10.50 DESSERTS FROM: £4.50 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £3.95 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £16

TELL US THE BACKGROUND OF RENDEZ-VOUS AND HOW YOU FIRST GOT INVOLVED I joined the previous owner of the restaurant when it was very French and called Chez JJ some years ago. Together we created Le Rendez-Vous on another site further up Camden Road, which was very successful, so I decided to bring it back on our current site and we dropped the ‘Le’. HOW HAS THE RESTAURANT DEVELOPED OVER THE PAST 12 MONTHS? Following re-introducing ourselves in 2013/14, we’ve spent the last year consolidating our position and growing our regular customer base. We also rose to the dizzy heights of number one on TripAdvisor in January 2015 and stayed there all year! IN WHAT WAYS DOES YOUR CHEF BRING THEIR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? John has been with us from the start. He was classically trained and served a tough apprenticeship for three years at the famous Boodle’s club in London, alongside chefs such as Mark Sargeant, who he ‘roomed’ with.

GUIDE US THROUGH SOME OF THE MOST POPULAR DISHES ON YOUR MENU We prefer to use locally sourced meat and fish, and that tends to make up most of our specials board, which is extremely popular with most of our regulars. Also, our pork belly has proved to be one of the bestsellers from our main menu. DO YOU PROMOTE THE USE OF FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL INGREDIENTS IN YOUR DISHES? As mentioned, our specials board is the place where we feature our most seasonal produce – lots of game during the game season from Penshurst and Bayham, and lots of fish in the summer months. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT FOR PEOPLE TO SPEND THEIR MONEY IN INDEPENDENT RESTAURANTS? We find that the people of Tunbridge Wells and surrounding areas prefer to support local, independent businesses. They see family-run eateries and are willing to spend their hard-earned money with them. It’s as if they like to see where their money is going.

HAS YOUR ETHOS TO FOOD AND DRINK EVOLVED? I prefer to use local suppliers for our food where possible, and living on the Kent and Sussex border means there’s no reason why that’s not possible. Even our cheese comes from neighbouring villages in Kent and Sussex. HAVE YOU NOTICED MANY TRENDS EMERGING? There seem to be more diverse styles of food being offered nowadays with restaurant openings, which can only be a good thing for the consumer. There are lots of new openings in London, which can find their way to surrounding areas such as ours, which is quite exciting. WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT GOING FORWARD? Much of the same – high-quality food at realistic, affordable prices. ANY HOPES FOR 2016? With a strong start to the year, things are looking good. We hope people continue to see the value of dining in independent restaurants, run by people who actually care and want the business.

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BILL’S, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Charlie Bond visits her local branch to see what this eatery has to offer

HAVING ORIGINATED IN Lewes as a greengrocery, Bill’s (named so after creator Bill Collison) is now a much bigger affair, with almost 70 restaurants across the UK. The Tunbridge Wells branch opened its doors in 2013 and quickly became a firm favourite in the town, offering everything from breakfast to bellinis. I’ve visited the establishment before, but mostly for rushed breakfast meetings where I’ve never had the benefit of being able to savour my pancakes, and my main focus has been on not spilling syrup down my blouse. Today though, I’m paying the restaurant an evening visit to sample their dinner delights. We’re greeted at the door by Lewis, who leads us to our table. The restaurant has a chintzy, shabby-chic décor, with low-hanging chandeliers, wooden partitions and glowing candles all adding to the look. We begin by ordering drinks. Lewis quickly demonstrates an extensive knowledge of the menu and everything on offer, so his suggestion of wines is welcomed. For my guest, a glass of Little Eden Pinot Noir (£5.65) – an Australian smooth red, and for myself the Picpoul de Pinet Coteaux la Cote Famenc du Languedoc (£5.65) – a deliciously fruity white, not dissimilar to a Sauvignon. Wine dutifully tasted, we move on to the main task – selecting our dishes. The menu offers a real variety of foods and flavours – everything from Greek-style koftas to sticky barbecue ribs, so we spend a long

time perusing without much success. Luckily, Lewis is on hand to make suggestions; noting that I’m wearing white and that perhaps the ribs may not be the best option for me (he’s obviously heard about the pancake syrup scenario), he recommends the pan-fried seabass (£12.95). Continuing with the sea theme, my guest opts for the roasted salmon fillet (£13.95), and we order some giant green gordal olives (£2.95) to devour while we wait. Well, if Tunbridge Wells had an award for the biggest olives in the town, they would win hands down. Fresh, with a delicate acidity, these provide just enough to tease the palate before our mains arrive. We don’t have to wait long before two beautifully presented dishes are laid before us. Luckily, it’s not just the presentation that’s on point – the food is delicious too. My seabass is served on a bed of crispy parsley and spring onion potato rösti, accompanied by a tomato, avocado and caper salsa, and my guest’s salmon is served on a crab, baby potato, dill and gherkin salad, with a salsa and watercress and radish garnish. It’s hard to find fault with the dishes – my seabass is crisped to perfection and the rösti is incredible, while my guest’s salmon is equally flavoursome, the dill and gherkin garnish giving an extra kick. We dither over whether to order dessert, but when Lewis says, “In my opinion, the best things we do are breakfast and dessert,” we know we have to rise to the challenge and indulge. I choose the warm pecan pie

RESTAURANT: Bill’s ADDRESS: Five Ways, Lime Hill Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1LJ TEL: 01892 548 699 WEB: www.bills-website.co.uk EMAIL: tunbridgewells@bills-email.co.uk OPENED: 2013 CUISINE: Eclectic English MANAGER: Jayme Saffer HEAD CHEF: Peter Martin STARTERS FROM: £2.95 MAINS FROM: £8.95 DESSERTS FROM: £4.25 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £4.35 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £14.95

with banana malt ice cream (£5.50), while my guest, wanting something ‘light’, selects the lemon meringue cheesecake in a glass (£5.50). Both are delicious (albeit, not light), and the malt banana ice cream is really different – it almost tastes healthy. We leave, full and full of praise for Bill’s. For what is now a chain, it hasn’t lost what makes it unique. There’s a good variety of inexpensive options to suit all tastes, and the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. I would, however, disagree that breakfast and dessert are the best things on the Bill’s menu – the fish and wine options get my vote…

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GRAVETYE MANOR, WEST HOATHLY Head chef George Blogg whets our appetite for the Michelin-starred restaurant near East Grinstead

RESTAURANT: Gravetye Manor ADDRESS: Vowels Lane, West Hoathly, West Sussex RH19 4LJ TEL: 01342 810 567 WEB: www.gravetyemanor.co.uk EMAIL: info@gravetyemanor.co.uk OPENED: 1958 CUISINE: Modern British

TELL US ABOUT THE BACKGROUND OF THE RESTAURANT Gravetye is well known for its superb garden, as a pioneering hotel and for its gastronomic history, especially within the industry. Gravetye has been awarded a Michelin star 22 times over the last 40 years, and a good number of well-known chefs have passed through the kitchen. I was told about the job by a mutual friend who both understands how I cook, and who also knew Gravetye well. I am at my best when I get inspiration from the surroundings, and with the kitchen garden, orchards, glass houses, smoke house and surrounding 1,000-acre estate, there can be no better place. HOW HAS GRAVETYE CHANGED AND DEVELOPED OVER THE PAST YEAR? I arrived here in June 2014, so not long ago considering what we have accomplished. Building a strong team in the kitchen, adapting the way we work to be more organised and efficient, making connections with local producers, and increasing the quality of every element that leaves the kitchen are responsible for the improvements over the last year. IN WHAT WAYS DO YOU BRING YOUR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? My style is classically based, but there is nothing aged about it. The plating, mostly on white, is quite natural, with the ingredients dictated to me by the produce coming from the extremely seasonal kitchen garden. I despise pretention in both food and service.

IS THERE A SIGNATURE DISH ON THE MENU? Customers should dictate a signature dish, not the chefs. We could never take the soufflé off the dessert menu without complaints! It changes flavour throughout the season, from our own rhubarb, to gooseberry, to raspberry, to currently bergamot.

MANAGER: Andrew Thomason HEAD CHEF: George Blogg MENU: À la carte (three courses) £65 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £6 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £32

DO YOU PROMOTE THE USE OF FRESH, SEASONAL AND LOCAL PRODUCE IN YOUR COOKING? You cannot get any more local, seasonal or fresh than food that you grow yourself and that is picked to order every day. Other than that, we try to source the best produce possible, with provenance being an important factor. WHY IS IT IMPORTANT FOR PEOPLE TO SUPPORT INDEPENDENT RESTAURANTS? To generalise, they put more back into the local economy and are far more representational of the area surrounding them, simply because the whole of their operation is based in one place. HAVE YOU NOTICED ANY BIG TRENDS EMERGING IN YOUR INDUSTRY? Fashion does not inspire me. I am fortunate at Gravetye to have enough stimulation and a clear sense of direction to not worry about trends. Foraging is fashionable, for example, but we don’t forage for that reason; we do it because we are surrounded by a 1,000-acre estate of meadows, woodlands and fields.

WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT FROM YOUR FOOD AND DRINK OFFERING GOING FORWARD? There are many areas that we can improve upon, but some changes take time and are reliant on the increased skill sets of the kitchen team. It is important not to do something if it cannot be repeated consistently every time, as this can have a negative impact. So, as our team continues to improve, so will the experience of our guests, getting better and better all the time. FINALLY, WHAT ARE YOUR HOPES AND PREDICTIONS FOR THE COMING YEAR? That all our guests enjoy their time at Gravetye immensely, that the whole team love what they do and that we continue to be busy!

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THE TUNBRIDGE WELLS EATING HOUSE, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Owner Julian Leefe-Griffiths takes us on a culinary tour of the town’s boutique hotel TELL US THE BACKGROUND OF YOUR RESTAURANT The Tunbridge Wells Hotel was born on the site of the old Swan Hotel, situated in the heart of the historic Pantiles area of Royal Tunbridge Wells. After major investment and refurbishment, The Tunbridge Wells Hotel now has 20 luxury bedrooms decorated in a stylish, elegant manner, in keeping with the surrounding

areas. As well as the bedrooms, the hotel also offers a 60-cover restaurant, lounge area and two beautiful function rooms. These function rooms, which can host weddings, parties and business conferences. This has made The Tunbridge Wells Hotel an all-year-round destination for businesses, tourists and the local residents.

ANY ACHIEVEMENTS YOU’RE PARTICULARLY PROUD OF? We’re incredibly pleased to announce that we’ve been listed in the prestigious Michelin Guide, which is a huge achievement, given the short amount of time the restaurant has been running. Keep a look out for even bigger and better things to come.

IN WHAT WAYS HAS THE PLACE DEVELOPED IN RECENT YEARS? Since opening in 2012, the hotel and restaurant have gone through many changes. One of our biggest developments was the addition of our sofa lounge area in the main restaurant. This has allowed a more relaxed area for both residents of the hotel, and for customers who wish to have a coffee and a catch-up in the afternoon, or some cocktails on a night out.

HOW ABOUT THE FOOD ON OFFER? Whether it’s for a relaxed lunch on the promenade, a conference meeting, a short break away or a family wedding, The Tunbridge Wells Hotel hopefully suits every occasion. Situated within the hotel is The Eating House Restaurant, which serves food from 7am until 9.30pm, seven days a week. The Eating House serves modern British cuisine, from breakfasts to open sandwiches,

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RESTAURANT: The Tunbridge Wells Eating House ADDRESS: 58 The Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TD TEL: 01892 530 501 WEB: www.thetunbridgewellshotel.com EMAIL: info@thetunbridgewellshotel.com OPENED: 2012 CUISINE: Modern British OWNER: Julian Leefe-Griffiths MANAGER: Michal Hrusc EXECUTIVE HEAD CHEF: Dan Hatton STARTERS FROM: £6.50 MAINS FROM: £14 DESSERTS FROM: £4.50 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £4.30 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £17

light salads, afternoon tea and full à la carte menus, which have been a huge success since launching in late 2014. ARE LOCAL PRODUCE AND INGREDIENTS PROMINENT IN YOUR DISHES? The Tunbridge Wells Hotel’s aim is to provide a professional, yet friendly service and make sure all our guests feel welcome and looked after. With regards to our food and drink, the kitchen brigade is focused on using only the best that Kent and Sussex has to offer from local producers; whether it’s asparagus from Groombridge, oysters from Whitstable or apples from Canterbury, we work extremely closely with all our local suppliers and producers to create delicious seasonal dishes.

steak sandwiches, homemade burgers and fish and chips, using cod from the day boats from Hastings and Rye. WHERE DO YOU THINK FOOD AND DRINK WILL GO IN THE COMING YEAR? We believe the 2016 trends with both food and drink will very much mirror 2015, as people search for provenance of the food and drink that restaurants and other food outlets are offering. At the hotel, provenance and healthy eating is very much at the forefront of our ethos.

DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS OR HOPES FOR THE RESTAURANT IN 2016? This year, we expect the hotel and The Eating House to grow with the continuation of some amazing events, which happen on The Pantiles all throughout the year. Whether it’s the biweekly markets showcasing local producers, the jazz nights on a Thursday throughout the summer or the food festivals, which are extremely popular in the community, the hotel can only keep on growing!

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR MENU’S MOST POPULAR CHOICES? At lunchtime, we offer a set menu in addition to the à la carte. This menu is priced at £16.50 for two courses and £19 for three courses, and often includes some of our most popular dishes, such as slow roasted pork belly, Buckhurst Park venison daube and roast sea bream. We also run a classic menu, which includes some more traditional dishes such as

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THE CHANDELIER RESTAURANT, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Join manager Deniz Evci to discover some delectable modern British cuisine at The Spa Hotel

RESTAURANT: The Chandelier Restaurant ADDRESS: The Spa Hotel, Mount Ephraim, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8XJ TEL: 01892 520 331 WEB: www.spahotel.co.uk EMAIL: reservations@spahotel.co.uk OPENED: 2007 CUISINE: Modern British MANAGER: Deniz Evci HEAD CHEF: Dale Lapperts STARTERS FROM: £6

TELL US ABOUT THE BACKGROUND OF THE RESTAURANT The Chandelier Restaurant holds two AA Rosettes and forms part of the family-run Spa Hotel in Royal Tunbridge Wells. As you may have guessed, the restaurant gets its name from the three huge chandeliers suspended from the high ceilings. I had previously worked at The Spa, starting shortly after the Scragg family had bought it in 2007, so when I bumped into Ant Scragg and heard his plans for the future, I jumped at the chance to re-join the team, this time as restaurant manager. IN WHAT WAYS DOES YOUR CHEF BRING THEIR OWN FLAIR TO THE KITCHEN? Head chef Dale Lapperts joined The Spa a few months before me, having previously worked in London. As soon as I started working with Dale, I saw how passionate he was about what his kitchen produces, always choosing the best products and buying locally where possible. What is also great about Dale, is that he is always keen to explain his dishes to both me and our team of staff, so we are all knowledgeable about what we are serving. WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT FROM YOUR FOOD AND DRINK OFFERING GOING FORWARD? Starting with the most important meal of the day, the restaurant is open for breakfast

daily to locals, as well as hotel residents, so whether you are just wanting coffee and croissants, eggs Benedict or a full English, we can cater for you. Our weekday set lunch menu is always a popular choice and is excellent value. Follow us on Facebook/ Twitter/Instagram or join our mailing list to hear about our latest offers, which often include a glass of wine chosen to complement your meal. On Friday and Saturday nights we have an à la carte menu, and of course we are open for Sunday lunch every week.

MAINS FROM: £14 DESSERTS FROM: £6.50 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £5.20 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £19.75

HOW ABOUT YOUR HOPES AND PREDICTIONS FOR THE COMING YEAR? It is very early stages, but Georgie Scragg, who created the restaurant’s in-house competition, Zagatos Brasserie, has some great ideas for renovating the restaurant. I think when the plans come to life, this will be the place to go in Royal Tunbridge Wells. We are currently refurbishing bedrooms, so my department is next in line. FINALLY, WHAT SETS YOUR RESTAURANT APART FROM THE COMPETITION? I think The Spa and the restaurant are unique because we offer modern British food, served in grand surroundings, with warm and friendly service. We also offer a more relaxed experience in our brasserie and bar, which hosts live music with dim lighting. Both myself and the rest of the team here look forward to seeing you soon. Oh, and you can also park right outside!

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THE QUEEN’S INN, HAWKHURST Charlie Bond heads to the 16th-century pub to sample their autumnal delights

THE LAST TIME I set foot in The Queen’s Inn was a few years ago, when meeting friends for drinks. We sat on uncomfortable, squeaky white sofas in a near-empty room, with Kylie Minogue blasting through the speakers. Since then, the bar and restaurant has found two new owners in the form of Sharon Retmanski and Sally-Anne Day, who bought the pub freehold in July 2013. They renovated and reopened that winter, before completing the accommodation facilities the following summer. The end result is worlds away from the former hostelry – I enter to a bar filled with people chatting and drinking, and a cosy restaurant sympathetically in keeping with the building’s 16th-century heritage, but with contemporary décor. We’re welcomed by Michael, who shows us to a table by the wood burning stove and provides us with a drinks menu. I order a glass of the Chateau de Moulin de Mallet (£5.80), and my guest opts for a pint of Chapel Down’s Curious Brew. The wine is a Bordeaux blend and has a delicious bouquet of red fruits. Selecting a starter proves difficult, but in the end we decide to share the antipasti board (£14.95), which arrives piled high with fresh breads, sundried tomatoes, artichokes, olives, breadsticks, mozerella and a variety of cured meats. Despite the autumnal crispness outside, as we tuck in I feel as though we could almost be in

Italy. And, just like an authentic Italian antipasti, despite a good effort to finish off the board, there is always something left for fear of ruining your main course. Our waitress Clare comments, “Good choice” when I select the lemon-cured halibut fillet (£17.50) for my main, so I have high hopes, but this dish exceeds all of my expectations. Laid out on a bed of sauce vierge, basil orzo, black olive tapenade and tender-stem broccoli, every mouthful of this dish is a taste sensation. I loathe bland food, but this dish has an abundance of flavour – the tapenade, with its salty zest, complements the citrus flavours of the fish perfectly, and the orzo with basil is fresh, light and a wonderful alternative to a potato dish. I’m reluctant to share even a morsel, but my guest, who is heartily tucking in to his Moroccan spiced lamb rump (£17.50), served with a warm bean salad, pomegranate couscous and lamb bon bon, is keen for us to try each other’s meals. Usually I’m not a fan of lamb, but his dish could be a game changer – the meat is beautifully tender and the spices give it that extra kick. You would think that we would have no room for dessert, but again, Clare lures us in, this time by saying, “The chocolate fondant is to die for.” Yes, we could share a chocolate orange fondant with orange ice cream (£6.50), but we’ve done enough sharing, so we order one each. As the gooey, warm chocolate sauce oozes out, we

RESTAURANT: The Queen’s Inn ADDRESS: Rye Road, Hawkhurst, Kent TN18 4EY TEL: 01580 754 233 WEB: www.thequeensinnhawkhurst.co.uk EMAIL: info@queensinn.co.uk OPENED: 2013 CUISINE: Modern British MANAGER: Sharon Retmanski HEAD CHEF: Sally-Anne Day STARTERS FROM: £4.95 MAINS FROM: £10.50 DESSERTS FROM: £6.50 WINE BY THE GLASS: £4.80 WINE BY THE BOTTLE: £17.50

don’t regret our decisions for one second. And, in what seems like a few seconds, the fondant, along with its tangy orange ice cream counterpart, is gone. By the time we leave, the restaurant is full, guests are booking in to stay the night in one of the luxury rooms, and there is a function on in full swing upstairs. Clearly the days of the white sofas are over – this wonderful slice of fine dining and cosy country interiors has left a lasting impression, and I’m keen to return to sample more of their delights… is tomorrow too soon?

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“I WORK ON CAFFEINE AND ADRENALINE” Now on three cookbooks and two Michelin stars, Tom Kerridge talks gimmicks, fish finger butties and football with Ella Walker

TOM KERRIDGE IS GRINNING. “The other week I had to transport something to the Kent coast via North London in a white van,” he says. “I had my arm out the window, my boxer dog sat next to me in the front, and I was picking up big pieces of metal and sticking them in a transit van. I loved it – I was in my element.” You can’t doubt it. A big burr of a man, the Salisbury-born chef is all Adidas shell suits and West Country twangs, but he’s just as at home in his two-star Michelin pub, The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, and is currently celebrating his third cookbook, Tom’s Table. It’s all about ‘extracting as much flavour as possible’ from food, ‘and making it social’, he explains: “They’re all recipes and dishes that I do eat, want to eat and make at home.” One of his favourites is the ‘phenomenal’ green chilli con carne. “It’s dry roasted mince, it goes really crispy – tastes fantastic,” he says, going off into a reverie. When he first started cooking, for his little brother after school, the menu was a tad less gourmet and featured a lot of fish finger sandwiches, Findus Crispy Pancakes and Birds Eye Potato Waffles. “I don’t still cook those things – that’s a complete lie, actually! My wife Beth was desperate for a fish finger sandwich, so I did make her one,” he says ruefully. His celebrity clientele wouldn’t appreciate that kind of fare though. The Hand has served Liam Neeson, Tom Jones, George Clooney and Bill Murray, although annoyingly, Kerridge missed Murray. “I was absolutely gutted,” he admits, adding he was with his wife in hospital after she had an operation. They also get quite a few premier league footballers in, and Kerridge loves his football. “A pub is part of a community, and if we can help another community project like Marlow FC, then we do in any way we can,” he says passionately. “Young chefs, young footballers; there’s a synergy. By the age of 40, you’re too tired to be doing 18-hour days cooking in the sauce section. It’s the same for footballers; you’re not going to be running round the pitch.” Between TV commitments, the books and the pubs, it’s difficult to imagine 42-year-old Kerridge slowing down. “I work on caffeine and adrenaline,” he confesses. “I’m always thinking about

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what we’ve got next. It’s like, if I was still nine, I’d be riding round on bikes in the car park, getting on a skateboard and then playing on the swings!” A big kid at heart, he might produce beautiful, world-class food, but he’s definitely not averse to a bit of fun in the kitchen. “Gimmicks are cool, if they’re encouraging,” he says, fully on board with new service Cheese Posties, which, as it sounds, sends you all the ingredients for a gourmet cheese toastie, by post. “I wish I’d thought of that!” he muses. “What a nice idea. If people are getting access to really interesting cheese, and you’re making it yourself, then it’s encouraging you to cook something which might spur you on to make something else.” When it comes to his favourite ingredients, he narrows it down to two. First pork, because ‘without pork there is no bacon’, and second water: “A lot of chefs overlook water.” Not Kerridge; in fact, in another life, he’d have made water his livelihood. “I always fancied being a fisherman on a trawler. I like the camaraderie and hard, physical work. As a 20-year-old, I loved nothing better than doing huge hours in basement kitchens and never seeing daylight,” Kerridge adds. “I absolutely loved it - the almost dig-dig attitude you have to have to get through the day, because the huge sense of achievement at the end outweighs the negativity; it’s an adrenaline-filled buzz.” Then again, he is allergic to shellfish...

HERE’S A RECIPE FROM TOM’S TABLE TO SINK YOUR TEETH INTO...

WHITE CHOCOLATE & PISTACHIO BLONDIES [ MAKES 16 ]

■ 300g plain flour

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a very low heat, then add the Demerara sugar, rapeseed and sesame oil, and the ■ Pinch of salt eggs. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod directly into the pan. Heat very ■ 100g shelled pistachio nuts, roughly chopped gently for three to four minutes, whisking constantly, to combine and warm through ■ 200g white chocolate, roughly chopped – don’t overheat or the eggs will curdle.

■ 2tsp baking powder

■ 50g sesame seeds

■ 150g butter, plus extra for greasing ■ 300g Demerara sugar ■ 40ml rapeseed oil ■ 40ml sesame oil ■ 2 eggs, lightly beaten ■ 1 vanilla pod, split in half lengthways ■ Flaky sea salt, to finish Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4. Lightly grease a 25cm square cake tin with butter, and line the base and sides with non-stick baking parchment, letting some overhang the sides of the tin, to make it easier to lift out the cake later.

Tom’s Table: My Favourite Everyday Recipes by Tom Kerridge, photography by Cristian Barnett, is published in hardback by Absolute

Put the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl and mix well/whisk to combine. Stir in the pistachios, 100g of the chocolate and the sesame seeds.

Pour the warm mixture onto the dry ingredients and whisk until thoroughly combined and the chocolate has melted. Finally, fold in the remaining chopped chocolate. Pour the cake batter into the prepared cake tin and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until cooked through. It should be lightly golden and quite firm to the touch. If a skewer inserted into the centre comes up slightly tacky, that’s fine, as it means the blondie will be nice and moist in the centre. Remove from the oven and sprinkle on a generous pinch of flaky sea salt. Leave in the tin for 10 minutes, then lift out, peel away the parchment and place on a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares to serve. The blondies will keep for four to five days in an airtight tin.

Press, priced £25. Available now.

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THE BRECKNOCK ARMS, BELLS YEW GREEN Here’s a Sussex pub that’s embracing its rural roots, as Charlie Bond discovers…

RESTAURANT: The Brecknock Arms ADDRESS: Bayham Road, Bells Yew Green, East Sussex TN3 9BJ TEL: 01892 750 237 WEB: www.thebrecknockarms.com EMAIL: thebrecknockarms-kent@gmail.com OPENED: 2013 CUISINE: Traditional English with a modern take MANAGER: Sally Fawcett HEAD CHEF: Ian Cook STARTERS FROM: £3 MAINS FROM: £8.95 DESSERTS FROM: £4 WINE BY THE GLASS: £4.50 WINE BY THE BOTTLE: £15.95

WHILE PLENTY OF pubs around these parts are desperately seeking a ‘gastro’ status, The Brecknock Arms in Bells Yew Green, near Tunbridge Wells, is bucking that trend. The landlords, Sally and Dave Fawcett, took over the running of the Harvey’s pub 18 months ago. Unlike many proprietors, the couple had no experience of running a pub, but decided to take on the task, as well as continuing with their individual careers too. “We’d always dreamed of opening a bar in Spain when we retired,” Sally says. “But instead, we took on the pub two doors down. It didn’t have much character, so we decided to turn it back into a traditional country pub.” The couple has certainly succeeded in restoring rustic charm to this village hostelry, with its crimson walls, open fireplaces and candelabras. There are vintage prints on the walls, freshly-cut flowers as table centrepieces and comfy sofas where punters can enjoy a beverage or two. My guest and I have chosen to eat at The Brecknock Arms on a Friday night. The pub is busy with diners and drinkers and there’s a jazz band playing in the adjacent room. The young waiter shows

us to our table and explains the specials to us, then leaves us to peruse at our leisure. Nowadays, you’d be hard pressed to find a pub menu without the words ‘jus’, ‘espuma’ or ‘confit’ appearing, but not here. Theirs has an extensive range of pub grub options, ranging from steak and sandwiches, to curry and chilli con carne. To start, I opt for the mixed bread with dipping oils (£3.50) and my guest chooses the nachos (£3). The food comes quickly and is nicely presented; mine on a slate with an array of oils, served with brioche and ciabatta, and the nachos in a square dish loaded with cheese and guacamole. They’re both pretty tasty but filling, and I hope that my main is modest. No such luck – the fish and chips (£8.95) I’ve chosen is so large it barely fits on the plate. Served with peas (which I fire across the table every time I try and cut into the fish) and homemade tartare sauce, it’s delicious. I might go as far as to say it’s the best fish and chips I’ve ever had, and maybe the first time I’ve ever been able to actually taste the beer in beer batter. I eat for what seems like an age, yet the portion on my plate doesn’t seem to diminish. I even give some to my guest, who has already

devoured his Mexican chilli cheeseburger and chips from the specials menu (£9.50). As well as a tangy chilli sauce inside the bun, the meat also contains a hidden chilli kick, much to his delight. We spend a long time eyeing up the dessert menu, toying with the idea of banoffee sundae or sticky toffee pudding, before finally admitting defeat and finishing the meal with a cafetière of coffee (£2) instead. Even this comes with a small square of cake, but I’m still much too full to even entertain the idea of eating it. With friendly staff, a buzzing atmosphere and nicely presented, inexpensive dishes, The Brecknock Arms is definitely a country pub worth visiting. But be warned – you will need a forgiving waistband and a hefty appetite!

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