THE
JOLLY GOOD
GRUB GUIDE 2014
edition 2
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Contents... A taste of what’s inside your fantastic foodie guide THE OLD FISHMARKET: TUNBRIDGE WELLS Continuing the Sankey family food legacy THE POET: MATFIELD This place speaks volumes about fine dining THE TUNBRIDGE WELLS HOTEL Authentic Parisian flavours at Brasserie des Sources THE BEACON: TUNBRIDGE WELLS A view to dine for and a menu to match
THE CURLEW: BODIAM We visit East Sussex’s only Michelin starred restaurant PALIO RESTAURANT: TUNBRIDGE WELLS Italian flavours keep evolving for maximum impact WOODS ON THE PANTILES: TUNBRIDGE WELLS Gearing up for 10th anniversary celebrations THE CROWN: GROOMBRIDGE A perfect pub with an impressive history
SANKEY’S SEAFOOD BRASSERIE: TUNBRIDGE WELLS How passion and provenance attract loyal diners
THE CAMDEN ARMS: PEMBURY Keeping it simple and stylish is the key to success
THE BAKERY: TATSFIELD Feel the buzz at this restaurant with rooms
THE KINGS ARMS: ROTHERFIELD Food fit for royalty at the 16th century inn
ALEXANDER HOUSE HOTEL: TURNERS HILL Three is the magic number at this acclaimed eatery
SIGNOR FRANCO: TUNBRIDGE WELLS Always a surprise at this long-standing local favourite
THE BARN: TUNBRIDGE WELLS Years of loyal service have formed a winning team
THE GOUDHURST INN Care and passion create a great experience
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If you love good food – and who doesn’t? – there can be few better places to live than our corner of the world. For gourmets, there’s a hint of Eden about the Garden of England, with its wealth of delicious natural goodies and an ever-growing army of independent food and drink producers. Even our wine is making a big splash on the international scene, as local vineyards strive to create tantalising tipples that can rival the best in the world market. All this means that top chefs across Kent and East Sussex have access to some of the country’s most coveted produce – a fact that is reflected in menus all over the area. For the Weald offers a fantastically varied selection of high quality restaurants, catering to just about every taste and embracing cuisines from around the globe. Whether you’re in the mood for traditional English dishes, made with local ingredients, or an exotic taste of far flung lands, even the most discerning diner is spoilt for choice. From Michelin starred restaurants at the cutting edge of gastronomic discovery, to rustic country pubs with roaring fires and a warm welcome, we’ve got some of the country’s best eateries right here on our doorstep. In this issue of The Jolly Good Grub Guide, we meet – and revisit – some of the food heroes who make the Wealden area such an exciting place to eat. Read on to hear about the new Tunbridge Wells oyster bar that intends to bring a fresh approach to an established food legacy; learn how an East Sussex hotel restaurant has wowed the critics to win three prestigious AA rosettes; meet the people behind successful eateries in Matfield, Westerham, Goudhurst and other tasty spots, as we count our culinary blessings over the next 40 mouth-watering pages.
Bon Appetit
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Fresh approach to seafood classics Matthew Sankey reveals what we can look forward to with his latest venture, The Old Fishmarket on The Pantiles in Tunbridge Wells Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to food? Like its sister restaurant, Sankey’s Seafood Brasserie, we want to stock the finest fish and shellfish the British Isles has to offer, and sustainably. But the bottom line is, it’s got to be the very best. How did the new restaurant come about? I had been looking for a site on The Pantiles for a while and when the site of the former Tourist Information Centre came up, it was a no brainer. It’s the most stunning building in the town and the opportunity to trade from it was attractive; the part of my mind that enjoys challenges went berserk. We have had to overcome all sorts of obstacles and
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it’s been great fun. Describe the type of dishes on your menu The first thing customers will notice is the large selection of oysters from all over the UK. There’s the option to have them cooked in different styles or just to eat them naturally (raw). Then there are the stunning Queenie Scallops from the Isle of Man and the wild Hardshell Clams from Colchester. There is an abundance of seafood treats you simply cannot get anywhere else, and they are all sustainable and as fresh as you can get. What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? One of the dishes that have already been
popular is our ‘proper’ Prawn Cocktail. We peel the Greenlands here and prepare each cocktail to order. It’s fantastic, we have revived an age old classic with a little bit of TLC. What sets your place apart from the others? Our smoked salmon is fabulous; it’s smoked on site and is the very best you can try. Plus, our cooked oysters are to die for. How would you sum up your new restaurant? Its unique setting and its ‘as fresh as possible’ shellfish, matched by a vast Champagne list, are unrivalled.
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What can we look forward to at The Old Fishmarket in 2014?
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHIL GLOVER AND KAREN BENGALL WWW.KARENBENGALL.COM
Before we first opened the Fishmongers the range of seafood available in the town was poor. This was not only because of the supermarket offering but also, with the wholesalers that provided the town’s restaurants you had a choice of farmed salmon, bream or bass. In opening the Fishmongers, we really raised the bar with the range of species available to both the public and professional chefs. We hope to repeat this with oysters and shellfish. Right now, only two oysters are readily used in our town: Maldon Rocks from Billingsgate and Richard Hawards Wild Rocks from Colchester, available through us. We will stock six different oysters from the UK and a couple from our friends in France. Not only will these be available raw but you can also taste them in a range of unique cooked dishes. It’s a really exciting time.
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Poetry in Motion The Poet at Matfield is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. With some new and exciting additions to their menu, James and Charlie Spencer discuss the importance of quality produce and how their business has developed over the past year So, it’s been a year since you appeared in the Good Grub Guide 2013 – what’s new? The past year has been a great one for The Poet. We launched ‘The Blackboard’ menu, which features the likes of our sumptuous burger, fresh beer battered haddock and crispy ham hock croquettes. It’s an informal menu that changes from day to day and caters to our customers who are looking for a quick bite, snack or something just to nibble on over a beer. We have acquired some really great local suppliers and our foraging skills have also improved! In the last month we’ve started offering a breakfast menu every day from 9.30am to 11.30am, which has proved really popular with the local community.
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What’s been your most popular dish this year? Fish seems to have sold really well this year and people seem to love the classics too. One of our bestsellers has been the smoked haddock with creamy mash, samphire, spinach and a healthy dollop of hollandaise sauce. Has your menu or approach to food evolved during 2013? I think less is more. We have tried to really focus on the quality ingredients and let them do the work. I think we now appreciate more than ever the beauty of a perfectly cooked piece of meat or fish. We always try really hard to listen to what people want and hopefully this has been reflected in the changes we’ve made.
How is your food ethos explored in your eatery? The most important thing to remember is the quality of the produce. There is no point in using something that is local if you can import something 10 times as good. Fortunately for us, this is not normally the case. We have had a steady supply of the highest quality wild mushrooms over the last few months (foraged within two miles of the pub). Fruit and vegetable seasons are extremely important in menu development and we love to innovate and explore using modern techniques and equipment, always ensuring we keep our eyes on our objectives. The poet is constantly evolving and progressing, using information and energy to deliver exciting, delicious food to our customers.
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How does your place stand out from the crowd? We’re on a mission to be the cosiest dining pub in Kent! While we don’t try to be or do everything, I think we have menus and facilities to cater for a wide range of tastes and occasions. We also usually have at least eight to nine different gins on offer! What’s your favourite aspect of working in food? The challenge, variation and buzz of Saturday night service, the satisfaction at the end of a good service and the never-ending pursuit of new techniques and flavours. Not to mention eating! How will you be wooing diners in 2014? Diners will be looking to enjoy fresh gastronomic experiences in the New Year. We make changes to our ALC menu on a monthly basis, so January will be no different to any other month. We will be paying close attention to our suppliers to be advised on what looks good, but it is still early days. The coming year will be more a case of refining what we are already doing; no dramatic changes, but some little adjustments from the feedback we have received throughout 2013.In terms of food trends, nostalgia will be very popular. British cooking and old English favourites are reemerging, from classic puddings like queen of cakes to dandelion and burdock, which is probably due a comeback. Popup restaurants are looking ever more popular, partly I think because of the fresh, up to date environment they offer.
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The French connection Since the Brasserie des Sources opened at the Tunbridge Wells Hotel on The Pantiles, the traditional Parisien restaurant has been making a big impression on local diners. Michal Hrusc tells us more How and when did you get involved in this place? When I first heard about Julian [LeefeGriffiths, owner] wanting to get involved with a hotel venue, I was excited, even though at the time I didn’t know it would be me who would be running it. I saw it coming together nicely since the works started back in August last year. There would be times where Julian was choosing which wallpaper to use or which fittings to put in the bathrooms; every little detail was important in building the finished product. My task was to set up the restaurant side of the business. Everything was happening very quickly and before we knew it, it was the first day we opened to the public. It was a Saturday, it was cold and we were stressed but excited at the same time. Would everything go without any problems? Of course it didn’t. But since then we have come a long way and I have to say it has been a steep learning curve for everyone. It has been a very good year! Tell us about your ethos when it comes to food. Chris Reeves, our Head Chef, has been cooking for over 20 years. He is very passionate about delivering delicious flavours
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using only very local, and therefore very fresh, ingredients. We have built some excellent relationships with our suppliers and Chris is very good at exploring new products and seeing what the market has to offer. We have worked together before in another venue and have done some private functions together as well. Having a strong working relationship gives both sides of the business the confidence to test new ideas and products. Describe the type of dishes on your menu. When we first wrote the menu back in November last year, it was classic French dishes – even the menu was mostly in French, which frankly caused some issues. Again, it was something we have learned from and we listened to our customers, as their feedback is very important to us. We had been criticised due to a lack of dishes that would be attractive to women, also because the menu was too complicated to read. Since then we changed the layout of the menu and added some lighter dishes, which are complemented with game specials throughout the week. We have something for everyone, so whether you just fancy a simple baguette or sandwich for lunch, or prefer to dine in style from our full
a la carte menu, we have it all. What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? I have recently tasted our white wine, mussel and saffron soup, followed by belly of pork in cider broth with root vegetables and both are absolutely delicious. Even now my mouth is watering just thinking about it. What sets your place apart from the others? With so many restaurants out there, and so many good ones, we try our best to distinguish ourselves with excellent service. We put a smile on our customers’ faces and always make them feel welcome (or even better, at home!). We always try and recognise people and remember their favourite table, dish, drink or joke. Customers return to us on a weekly basis and this is something we value very highly, as this proves that we’re doing something right and that there is a market there for freshly prepared and cooked local, seasonal food. Can you describe your restaurant in five words? Friendly, welcoming, delectable, tasteful, smart.
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How will you be wooing diners in 2014? As most of you know we have witnessed a boom of new restaurants opening this year, especially in Tunbridge Wells. All of them are offering something different and exciting, although it’s not always clear where the produce is coming from. As I’m writing this, we have entered the chilly part of the year and this means everyone enjoys those warming dishes on the menu, such as coq au vin or stew. All delicious and all using only the best local produce there is. Coq au vin, venison daube and our beef ragout are extremely popular in the winter months. Looking forward and moving on to the New Year, we will be offering our customers some new dishes as we update our menu four or five times a year to keep up with the changing seasons. Also, our drinks will be refreshed as we would like to offer something innovative and invigorating, something which you can’t get in every other restaurant. Small microbreweries seem to be producing some outstanding beers and these have been on the rise in the past months. We tasted some interesting beers from a re-opened historic brewery near Paris and we liked it! What is more Parisian than absinthe beer, right?
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WELCOME TO THE BRAVE NEW WORLD Foodie Joe Murphy puts the bad old days behind him as he visits Austens’ Restaurant in Horsmonden and discovers just how far pub food has evolved. And he’s even allowed inside...
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spent a lot of time in pubs as a child – pubs that “did food” and usually had car parks. Sometimes the landlord didn’t like the idea of kids in the pub, so I had to settle for a packet of Worcestershire sauce crisps and a bottle of coke in the car (with a paper straw). This would allow my parents around half an hour to escape the chaos of a family road trip in a yellow Vauxhall Cavalier. Of the establishments that did allow children to enter, I seem to recall ‘jumbo sausage and chips’ being about as good as it got. I remember a rather bemused landlord in Brighton nearly passing out when my dad asked for some Dijon mustard to mask the awful blandness of the House Special macaroni cheese... So, the idea of a seven-course tasting menu being offered at my local was about as likely as the appointment of a sommelier to advise punters on its encyclopaedic wine list. The point being, that back in the dark ages you simply could not get a quality eating experience down the pub. These days, thankfully, things are a lot different. Thanks to food revolutionaries such as Tom
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prices at a glance STARTERS FROM: £5 MAINS FROM: £12 DESSERTS FROM: £6.50 CHEF’S TASTING MENU: £55
The quilted green majesty of the Kent countryside has become a Mecca for foodies in search of brilliance and, I’m pleased to report, another pin has been well and truly planted in the culinary map around Tunbridge Wells Kerridge (The Hand and Flowers in Marlow) and of course, that bloke from the Waitrose adverts, the public house has evolved into a centre of excellence for superbly cooked and innovatively assembled plates, sourced from local, seasonal producers. These avant-garde pioneers have inspired a generation of chefs
and restaurateurs and across our region a real legacy is beginning to form. The quilted green majesty of the Kent countryside has become a Mecca for foodies in search of brilliance and, I’m pleased to report, another pin has been well and truly planted in the culinary map around Tunbridge Wells. I am referring to Austens’, the new dining concept lovingly stitched onto the side of the charming landmark hostelry, The Gun and Spitroast in Horsmonden. Nestled on the village green known locally as “the heath”, the venture was the brainchild of advertising executive, Richard Barker. Richard had harboured ambitions for years to build a quality brand around relaxed, á la carte dining. The setting could not be better; the pub itself is a genuine community hub offering a vast selection of real ales, wines and locally produced beverages. The idea of teaming with an established and much loved local is inspired, with both establishments lending something different but complementary to one another. All that was needed to complete the picture was the appointment of a chef to deliver the business plan. Step forward Max Dosad, a fine
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young chef from Essex with a Michelin pedigree and an exponential degree of talent. Richard Barker has all his ducks in a row and a couple on the menu by the first glance… When I step into Austens’, I know almost immediately that we’re in for a treat. We’re greeted front of house by Fraser, a well turned out, impeccably mannered wine expert – always a good start. The layout of the dining room is dominated by the polished cannon behind a single plate of glass in an enormous fireplace. The smart Regency theme and extremely comfortable Louis XIV chairs hint at the refinement to come from the kitchen and I’m not to be disappointed. I kick off with the octopus carpaccio served with baby courgette and baby fennel (£6). The delicate octopus retains its robust property despite it being so thin it’s translucent, the fennel cranks up the flavour profile without blasting the octopus off the plate, while the courgette adds a sweet and slightly crunchy overlay. The assembled plate is as pretty as it is refined in taste. Big flavours, with a light touch; certainly one of the best starters I’ve had all year. The second offering is the roast breast of duck with truffle mash, hispi cabbage and artichoke crisps (£17.50). A stunningly clean bottle of Pouilly Fume (£27.50) joins us at the table at this point, perfect for my wife’s crisp fillet of cod (£16.50) and not in any way a mismatch for my brilliantly pink duck breast. The presentation again is sublime and the flavour combinations soaring. Max Dosad has a level of ability far beyond his tender years, every mouthful resonating with promise and the duck itself cooked to perfection. The luxurious mash is light and fluffy, the artichoke beautifully bittersweet – seriously good food. Like the cod across the table, all ingredients are sourced locally and brought
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together with raw skill. We’re offered a slight breather to prepare for the dessert, a rare offer in the age of turning tables and gratefully accepted. The restaurant is busy for a Wednesday evening and you get the feeling that word has already started to spread about Austens.’ According to Richard, Sundays are getting an incredible response with Max serving Sunday lunch “The Austens’ way”. This comprises the meat getting the Max treatment in the kitchen, with a bounty of trimmings on the side. Well worth another trip out into the country. Meanwhile, my appetite has held up enough to dive head first into the Eton Mess (£6.50). This is no poor man’s Pavlova but instead an explosion of strawberry jelly, vanilla scented meringue and fruit picked just around the corner. After the richness of the duck, I could not have chosen better. No surprises that Max is again behind this superb piece of culinary architecture. After this experience I’ve officially upgraded this British summer to “glorious”, a move not let down by the Kent countryside on the way home. In recent weeks I’ve been treated to exceptional dining in the heart of Kent’s golden triangle – Matfield, Goudhurst and now Horsmonden. The bar just keeps getting raised every time. Each picture postcard village is offering foodies something slightly different, not a jumbo sausage in sight anywhere and I’m pleased to say you can bring the kids… Or leave them in the car park outside. Austens’ Restaurant At the Gun and Spitroast, The Heath, Horsmonden, Kent TN12 8HT 01892 723 158 www.austensrestaurant.co.uk
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Sustainable quality is the key Matthew Sankey, owner of Sankey’s Seafood Brasserie in Tunbridge Wells, tells us what’s been happening this year and what’s next on the menu So, it’s been a year since you appeared in the Jolly Good Grub Guide 2013 – what’s new? We are always looking for new ways to improve our product, be it in the produce or the service levels. This year we have continued to invest in our freehold property: new toilets, new kitchen equipment, Epos and loyalty systems. All of this investment results in us being able to provide a better service to our customers. We have yet again been awarded 4.5/5 on the fish2fork website for sustainability, the highest grade awarded in the UK. Our work with the National Lobster Hatchery has continued and has become the bench mark in how they raise money from the restaurant industry. What’s been your approach to business in 2013? I think the single biggest factor this year has been the dramatic rise in costs for everything (fuel, produce, wages etc). We have had to be
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really sensitive to this to ensure that whilst we have to maintain our profitability, we still want to provide a high quality, yet affordable product to our customers. We are being more creative adding value in ways we never looked at before. What have been your most popular dish or dishes this year? Our most popular dishes have been lobster, Cock crab and our Sankey’s Smokie, but the biggest surprise has been the rise of the Spider crab. Although an ugly looking thing, its meat is very sweet and succulent; it really has been this year’s ‘on-trend’ fish. How is your food ethos explored in your eatery? We are very fortunate as we supply ourselves via the Fishmongers, on Vale Road. This allows us to ensure the origin of every seafood product we use, which previously has not been
possible. The guys in the shop really are at the top of their game, it’s why they have won the Taste of Kent Fishmonger of the Year award three times in a row! How does your place stand out from the crowd? Without wanting to repeat myself, the quality of our fish and its sustainability is untouched. Our restaurant is in a stunning building, which we own, so we are happy to reinvest in keeping it up to date. What’s your favourite aspect of working in food? Some of my fondest memories of working with food have been with Graeme, my partner in the Fishmongers. When you find someone who shares the same passion for fish as you, it’s special – trust me, not many people will get up at 2am to pick fish out of polystyrene boxes and enjoy it with you!
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What’s coming up in 2014? At Sankey’s we offer the very best fresh fish and shellfish from the British Isles, and sustainably too. The challenge for our kitchen is to ensure that we maintain this high standard of produce. This year we saw the rise in popularity of the Spider crab – we sold thousands of the things and they are great. In the New Year we will, as we do every week, scour the nation for great suppliers who share our passion for sustainable fresh fish. I have recently been in talks with a Queeney Scallop fishery in The Isle of Man. These little miniature versions of the more commonly found King Scallop are delicious, sustainable and very versatile. They are great in pies, with garlic or even raw! We are also constantly looking for new beers; we’re equally as passionate about ales as we are about lobsters and crabs. This year has seen the dramatic rise in popularity of craft breweries and I don’t see this stopping any time soon. From local brewers such as The Kent Brewery and Curious Drinks to the Scots at Brewdog and the Danish Mikkeller beers, we have tried them all and keep finding more and more beers that our customers love. In the New Year we will probably commit to another line of craft beer, bringing the total up to six different ales on at any one time, plus our stock of fruit, Weiss, lager and Belgian beers all on tap.
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Feel the buzz at The Bakery Andrew Bond has owned The Bakery Bar & Restaurant for over 12 years. He has been continually driven to provide high quality food and drink in a relaxed and informal atmosphere
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he restaurant specialises in Modern British and European cuisine, brasserie style bar meals, Sunday lunch and specialist parties and functions for up to 90 people seated. We are located in the centre of the picturesque village of Tatsfield, just outside the historic market town of Westerham, just off the B2024 Croydon Road. The restaurant and bar were completely refurbished about six years ago in a modern rustic fashion, which now offers a unique style all of its own. As well as the main restaurant menu, priced at £29.95 for three courses and £24.95 for two, there is a bar menu which provides an extensive selection of brasserie style bar meals and snacks, making it an ideal venue for a light lunch or dinner, or even just to call in for coffee or evening drinks and cocktails. The menu is a forever changing, seven-choice set menu with all dishes cooked ‘in-house’ using wherever possible fresh and local high quality produce. We specialise in
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quality matured steaks and the freshest fish and seafood. Sunday lunch is a popular family affair with a more traditional menu at £23.95 for three courses, with prices for children. We pride ourselves in offering very high standards of cuisine and service that is professional whilst informal and relaxed at the same time. A varied and carefully chosen wine list complements any meal choice with selections from all over the world, whilst staying true to the more traditional wine
producing regions. Last year we introduced five en suite bed and breakfast rooms above the restaurant and have plans to build a further two rooms next year. The rooms are fully sound proofed, offering the ‘five-star hotel’ touches of flat screen televisions, comfortable beds with Egyptian cotton bed linen, fluffy towels, plush carpeting, posh bath or shower rooms with excellent power showers. All with the knowledge that a friendly welcome, professional restaurant service and a ‘buzzy’ bar or a home cooked and served breakfast are only a staircase away. Room rates start from as little as £79, rising to £ 119 for our Junior Suite and for popular dates, and can be booked by calling Andrew on 01959 577 605. Further details of our menus and rooms can be found by visiting www.thebakeryrestaurant.com We really do look forward to welcoming you!
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Living in the moment
Alexander House Hotel in West Sussex has just received a major culinary accolade – here’s how their ultra-seasonal approach is delighting diners Congratulations on Alexander House Hotel being awarded three AA rosettes! How did you impress the AA? The food served in AG’s is the product of our highly skilled brigade kneading great ideas in with natural talent. Nurturing our team allows us to produce food that is far from ordinary. We take influences from classic dishes, work with innovative cooking techniques and use our south east environment as a basis for our food philosophies. We look to the Sussex hillside and bountiful woodland for inspiration and peer past ‘seasonal’ to understand what is happening right now – predicting a berry will be ripe in June does not make it so, which is why our menus flow with the moment. We believe our holistic attitude and technical savoir faire make AG’s arguably unique and we are proud that our food has been rewarded with such a prestigious accolade as a third AA Rosette. Looking ahead to 2014, what can diners expect to see on the menu next year? We absorb our surroundings and create dishes inspired by countryside, woodland, land and field. We use this inspiration and classic foundations as our muse and bring dishes to life through colours, textures and theatrical presentation. A perfect example for 2014 will be our take on one of Sussex’s most traditional dishes: the Sussex Pond Pudding. Lemon curd parfait and dill scented meringues will symbolise rocks around a pond. In between the rocks will sit lemon cress shoots and dried black olive powder representing soil and foliage. Finally, the dish will be served on a handcrafted plate floating on water – the perfect pond!
Alexander House Hotel, Turners Hill, East Grinstead, West Sussex RH10 4QD 01342 714 914 www.alexanderhouse.co.uk
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Time Honoured Appeal Situated Off Mount Pleasant Road in Tunbridge Wells, The Barn Pub & Restaurant occupies an enviable position in the centre of the town and has offered patrons a unique dining experience for over 20 years. We catch up with General Manager Philippe Sorak to hear about what’s on offer Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to food Our ethos is to purchase quality ingredients, cook them simply and present them attractively whilst offering exceptional value for money. How and when did you get involved in this place? Born in France, I was brought up in the hospitality industry as my parents owned a brassiere in Burgundy. After qualifying in Hotel Management and Catering, I gained wonderful experience working in excellent restaurants in Luxembourg and Germany, before coming to England supposedly for one year to learn the language. Some 30 odd years later, I am still here! In November 1992, Ron Zanre and Patrick McGuire purchased The Barn and I joined them as General Manager. Ron and Patrick had many years’ experience in the restaurant and bar industry and I knew we would inevitably make a great team. When they purchased The Barn it was a rather tired, sad property and the restaurant had been closed due to a lack of business, but with their significant investment, they brought this lovely pub and restaurant back to life. We are
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now in our 21st year together. During this time we have seen many pubs and restaurants change hands and also an influx of chain restaurants with no individuality, so I am very proud that we have continued to flourish as a privately-owned, very individual and unique pub and restaurant.
homemade and our rum bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice cream from local Willetts dairy is wonderful. Our guests were having difficulty on deciding which dessert to choose, so we have recently introduced a ‘trio of desserts’, which has been really well received!
Describe the type of dishes on your menu The dishes very much follow our ethos and are best described as being ‘unfussy’ i.e. simply cooked and attractively presented. The menu is primarily based on grills and, in particular, high quality steaks, plus Mediterranean-style dishes. We also offer a really good choice of vegetarian dishes.
What sets your place apart from the others? I would hope the consistency and quality of our food. However, I feel guests expect much more than wonderful food. They want to visit somewhere where they feel valued with a genuine warmth and attentive service. Many of the team have worked with me for over 10 years, which is so rare in this industry and ensures we can offer consistency, high standards and a more personal service. We are so fortunate that The Barn is such a wonderful building, full of oak beams and columns and with such great character. When guests enter our restaurant, you often hear comments such as ‘What a wonderful room’ or just simply ‘Wow!’
What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? Our bruschetta done in the classic Italian style using foccacia bread is a delicious starter, as is our moules marinière, Parmesan-coated crayfish or something more traditional such as baked mushrooms stuffed with Stilton. As for our main courses, our 28 day matured Scottish steaks are incredibly tender. Our roasted four rib rack of lamb with a herb and pistachio crumb is extremely popular, as is our slow roasted duck with rhubarb and onions. Desserts are
Can you describe your restaurant in five words? Individual, welcoming and great value.
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What can diners look forward to in 2014? There has been a growing trend of late towards newly opened restaurants majoring in steaks and I feel that this will be an ongoing popular choice for people dining out at the expense of ethnic cuisines. In 2014 we will continue to purchase quality ingredients wherever possible from local suppliers and to serve freshly produced food with an emphasis on grills. With this in mind, we have worked hard to source a local butcher who can guarantee the quality of matured Scottish beef that we insist on. Value for money will still be an important factor when considering where to dine, and our two fixed price menus at ÂŁ8.75 and ÂŁ17.95 will continue to be popular.
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MOTORS
This place has star quality
There are tens of thousands of restaurants in the UK but only 162 have earned one or more prestigious Michelin stars. The Curlew in Bodiam is the only starred restaurant in East Sussex. Erik Brown went along to find out what makes this eatery one of the elite
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hefs are just amazing, aren’t they?
“I’m trying to do a baked Alaska,”
There’s this photo I have of Andrew
he says. “I want to make it
Scott, head chef of The Curlew and
fashionable again. Or Arctic roll.
in it, he’s smiling, his blue eyes are
That’s what I’m working on.
clear and the only lines on his face are laughter lines, those little crow’s feet at the sides of the
invited him in as consultant to help launch chef Neil McCue to position The Curlew. The restaurant picked up a Michelin star in the summer
For two people to share.”
of 2011 and after two and a
Then he’s off, speaking with
eyes. The photograph was taken within minutes of
passion and clarity for about
half years, Garrett told them:
him telling me that he’d just worked 13 days of
five minutes straight. The
“You don’t need me
cripplingly long shifts and that one of his commis
conversation is suddenly strewn
chefs had “disappeared into thin air” because a
with strawberry bombes, melon
relative was sick.
pressed with different alcohols, “posh”
“It’s been hard work,” he had said. And he
chicken, mascapone cream with black pepper
anymore” and moved on. McCue followed him last year and Scott came in from Michelin-starred Mallory Court outside Leamington Spa, bringing his sous chef with him.
looked as fresh as a man just back from a
sugar and a lobster cocktail in a martini glass with
three-week spa holiday. I guess it’s the love of the
an espuma of Marie Rose. One thing is clear: the
job that does it.
affable and talented Andrew Scott has found a
at L’Enclume Cumbria and at Lords of the Manor
natural home at The Curlew and he’s obviously
in Upper Slaughter, Gloucestershire. So, he had
loving every minute of it.
previous, as the catering industry likes to say.
There’s a favourite question I like to ask chefs: “What are you working on?” It seems so simple that it’s almost banal, but if
Developed by Mark and Sara Colley – a former
Scott had previously worked with Simon Rogan
“My background is classical,” Scott says. “But I
the chef is any good, you can relax, sit back and
City broker and a research analyst – The Curlew
do like to present things in a modern way, not
listen. And Andrew Scott is very good indeed.
has only been open in its current form for four
chintzy old school. So I keep to the seasons and I
years and Andrew and his sous chef Neil Bennett
try to use as much local produce as possible.”
have been there for just 10 months. But for those
What that means is that his dry goods supplier
in the know and happily, I am one of them, it is
is just up the road at Hawkhurst, his fish come
already an institution. It is, in fact, the only place
from Rye (he gets to pick the best as the supplier
where the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it
passes on his way to Billingsgate fish market), he
again for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé –
uses a local butcher who can get him “anything”
it kind of works at both ends of the meal).
and a veg man so committed to the cause that
The Colleys got to know Michelin-starred chef
he’s growing Scott some coriander plants, just for
Graham Garrett of The West House, Biddenden,
the flowers: coriander is usually harvested before
when they were running their first hotel/
the flowers develop.
restaurant, The George at Cranbrook and they
Even the wine list has a local flavour, with
prices at a glance STARTERS FROM: £8 MAINS FROM: £15.50 DESSERTS FROM: £8 WINE BY THE GLASS FROM: £5.50 WINE BY THE BOTTLE FROM: £18.50
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AUGUST 2013
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The potted crab with fennel cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit (£9.50).
sparkling wine from Appledore in Kent and Bluebell Estates in East Sussex and the first ever English bio-dynamic wine, from the Sedlescombe vineyard just five miles away.
“It’s been hard work,” he had said. And he looked as fresh as a man just back from a three-week spa holiday. I guess it’s the love of the job that does it
Mark and Sara are clearly enthusiastic about
My wife orders the potted crab with fennel
Scott’s cooking: “I’ve never worked with such an
cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit
complements the meat perfectly. Then not one, but two desserts: the one I order
energetic and talented group of people,” Mark
(£9.50). Not given to emotional outbursts, she
(off the “short menu” – £20 for two courses, £25
says. But they’re quite modest about the Michelin
nevertheless whispers an audible “oh” when she
for three), olive oil cake with mascarpone mousse
star. Glad to have it, of course, but it’s “not what
tastes the pickled mooli and ginger.
and lemon sorbet , and the one Scott wanted me
defines us”, Mark says. “It’s a family business,” he adds, “serving the local community.” If it has also become a destination restaurant,
Then for me the pork fillet and belly with
to have, mango macaroon with mascarpone,
caramelised onion, walnut and rosemary gnocchi
compressed mango, pineapple and Szechuan
(£20.50) with tiny, upright cylinders of something
pepper sorbet (£8.50). The first is excellent, with a lovely light, lemony
great – the Colleys are really proud of that. But
sharp and green – ah yes, local apple – providing
they like to keep their feet on the ground too.
acidity to offset the fatty pork belly and crispy
sponge and a sharp sorbet. The second is a
crackling. Beautifully done.
standout dish, with the pineapple and pepper
So, to the food. I have a starter of perfectlycooked mackerel with pressed cucumber (the
My wife goes for the Sussex lamb with
sorbet cutting through the sweetness of the
cucumber-iest I’ve ever tasted, in fact), smoked
cardamom, yoghurt and saag aloo purée (£21).
macaroon and pressed mango. Stunning. Mrs B
mackerel parfait, oyster and – what was that? – oh
The lamb, she says, is tender and delicious and
agrees – then tucks in to a delicious cheesecake of
yes, the faintest hint of wasabi (£9). Now that by
the cardamom yoghurt refreshing and tasty. She
white chocolate, poached cherries and pistachio
itself is an impressive stunt. Wasabi doesn’t usually
struggles a little with the saag aloo purée – not
ice cream (£8.50).
hint at anything: it usually just hits you somewhere
really her thing. So, I taste it and like it a lot; it has
in the respiratory tract. This is subtle stuff.
a kind of earthiness, an umami flavour, that
Oh, and I indulge in a glass of the Sedlescombe First Release East Sussex 2011 (£8), so bright and fresh and fruity that after lunch I drive to the estate and buy three bottles from the woman whose husband made it. Don’t you just love this part of the world? The Curlew is half an hour from Tunbridge Wells and the only Michelin-starred restaurant in East Sussex. The Curlew, Junction Road, Bodiam, East Sussex, TN32 5UY 01580 861394 www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk
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Evolution of Italian cuisine
Even with a loyal crowd of satisfied diners, Palio Restaurant in Tunbridge Wells understands the need to keep their menu fresh and exciting It’s been a year since you last appeared i n the Jolly Good Grub Guide 2013 – what’s new? We’ve been seeing the same old faces this year, but that’s maybe a good thing as it means our loyal customers are still coming back! But we’ve also tried to give the customers what they want with new innovations, so we introduced a summertime set menu. This was followed by autumn and Christmas set menus and they’ve proved very popular with our diners. What’s been your most popular dish? The old classics that we sometimes reintroduce with a new twist – such as Veal Milanese and Pollo ai Funghi – are always popular. Another dish that is constantly in demand is the ‘Grigliata di Pesce’: mixed grilled fish, a composition of slightly marinated and grilled fresh sea bass, sea bream, salmon, squid, scallop and king prawn. This is truly a plate full of freshness, a delight for fish lovers.
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reason customers keep coming back for more.
How has your approach to food evolved this year? The restaurant game is a constant evolution, with new ingredients always coming onto the market. New dishes are always being created and fresh cooking techniques come along. Running this business is a constant learning curve and we’re always looking to update what we’re doing. So, how is your ethos reflected in your menu? All the dishes and new innovations that I’ve mentioned are being explored by our clientele and appreciated, which is another
What makes Palio stand out from the crowd? Mainly being an independent restaurant and not part of the ‘chains’ market. We’re trying to evolve all the time with new ingredients, sourcing the freshest and best components for our dishes. Also, providing a clean friendly atmosphere makes it a favoured place for our regulars. What’s the best aspect of working with food? Cooking and serving food is a passion. Once you have been taken in by the food business, you just can’t keep away. Palio Restaurant 84-86 Grosvenor Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 2AS 01892 515 558 www.palio-restaurant.com
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A warm welcome all day long At Woods on the Pantiles, the menu is always packed with flavour and there’s more in store for 2014 Tell us about your ethos when it comes to food? The restaurant has stuck to the principles of emphasising regional and seasonal ingredients and using local produce whenever possible, preparing almost all dishes on the premises. How and when did you get involved in the place? We are looking forward to celebrating our 10th anniversary in 2014! The Wood family has lived and farmed in Kent for many generations and this farming background, together with a passion for food, encouraged the formation of Woods on the Pantiles. Describe the type of dishes on your menu Woods’ customers can enjoy a varied and comprehensive menu. This includes all day breakfast and brunch, ‘bistro’ style menu for lunch through to dinner, alongside some
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traditional English dishes and desserts. The recent addition of traditional pies and risottos has been a great success, along with a wider choice of sandwiches and cakes. What sets your place a part from the others? Here, there’s a warm and friendly atmosphere for all our customers, families and friends – in a ‘shabby chic’ environment, open all day, seven days a week. Almost all of our dishes are made on the premises from fresh ingredients. We occupy a unique position and a beautiful Georgian building on the historic Pantiles in Royal Tunbridge Wells, with an outside terrace for eating alfresco in the warmer months. Then there’s the flexibility and variety of our menu – not many places serve an all day breakfast and brunch! So, whether it’s a welcome cup of tea or coffee with cake, a relaxing lunch with family and friends, or just a drink, Woods covers every option and
gives the customer a feeling of freedom of choice. What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? You will be spoilt for choice by the variety of the menu, but our customers’ (and staff’s!) favourites include our full English breakfast, fish pie, sausage and mash, confit of duck leg with spiced red cabbage, sautéed new potatoes and plum jus, Kent rarebit or sausage sandwich with Woods’ own red onion marmalade, with the traditional roast and all the trimmings available on Sundays. But don’t forget our fantastic array of cakes, all made in-house, with delicious afternoon tea, or sparkling afternoon tea with a glass of Prosecco and a children’s tea menu all available every afternoon. Can you describe your restaurant in five words? Welcoming, family-friendly, bustling, location, seasonal.
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Launch of new bar – No 64 at Woods on the Pantiles The end of 2013 sees the launch of No. 64 (at Woods on the Pantiles). No.64 is aimed at the more discerning Royal Tunbridge Wells crowd, offering a stylish environment, relaxed atmosphere and a sophisticated menu of wines and sparkling cocktails. The bar opens on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, 5pm until midnight. At No. 64 the wine menu has a respectful choice for the connoisseur, or for the person who just likes to drink it. Our cocktail choice is simple and sparkling, mainly Prosecco based. Our customers can start their night off with a cocktail, knowing they can make the smooth transition onto their favourite wine. Our mission is to retain the right staff who understand our clientele of over 25’s, and who recognise the drinks and atmosphere they enjoy. Having a sophisticated décor and ambient music that doesn’t over-power your evening out, we believe No. 64 complements the other bars and restaurants on the Pantiles, giving customers a fantastic choice to visit and no reason to leave this side of town! 01892 614 411 www.woodsrestaurant.co.uk
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MOTORS
food is served MONDAY TO THURSDAY Noon - 2.30pm & 6pm - 9pm FRIDAY & SATURDAY Noon - 9pm SUNDAY Noon - 6pm
JEWEL INN THE CROWN
Country pubs seem to be changing hands these days faster than £20 notes and it’s always a bit of a gamble as to how it will turn out for customers. Richard Moore revisits one of his old haunts that has new owners
D
riving back home from Tunbridge Wells, the Wife and I happen to pass the Crown Inn at Groombridge. It’s lunchtime, the sun is shining and the tables outside give you a great view of the countryside, the church opposite and Groombridge Green. Only problem is the fact we had been fairly regular visitors to the 16th century inn until a few years ago when the inside became pretty, how shall we say, tired; it was somewhat dusty with curtains hanging off the rail and light bulbs broken. Should we chance it today? Yeah. Up the steps then and into another world. The small, cosy bar with its low beams and inglenook fireplace remind us of all the good things about this place along with its wealth of history. Dating back to 1585 the inn has attracted some notable characters. During the 18th century it was the headquarters of the Groombridge Gang, ruthless smugglers who terrorised the countryside between the village and the south coast. Using pack ponies they smuggled tea from Pevensey beaches and hid it in secret passages between the cellar and nearby Groombridge Place. Naturally, today the inn has a ‘Smugglers Room’ which can seat up to 10 people. Another interesting visitor was Sir Arthur
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Conan Doyle, creator of detective Sherlock Holmes. He lived in Crowborough and was known to pop in for a tipple in the late 1800’s. So, an interesting place that certainly appears brighter and fresher then memories suggest but what about the food? We order brie and red onion marmalade baguettes (£6.75) and take our drinks to a table outside. It’s not long before the warm baguettes arrive, complete with salad garnish and fries. And they’re impressive. Indeed, the food is so good the Wife and I decide to come back at the weekend... It’s Saturday night and we turn up on the off chance of getting a table in the dining area. We’re in luck, take our seats and drink in the ambience created by candles and another fine fireplace.
Sipping glasses of house sauvignon (£4.50) we enjoy warm bread with dipping oil and balsamic (£1.95) followed by chicken, ham and leek pie with mash and veg (£11.95), plus baked brie and red onion tart with dressed rocket leaves and baby potatoes (£10.25). (Yes, I know I had brie and red onion baguette but it was so good.) The dishes do not disappoint. There’s little doubt this place has benefited from the arrival in November of new owners Steve and Louise (Harmes) who hail from Crowborough. It’s their first venture into the hospitality business (he used to be a plumber) and it’s a brave move considering the financial climate. They’ve obviously worked hard to create the welcoming feel of a village pub that offers traditional cuisine through a set menu and daily specials board. There’s also a children’s menu which is vital these days if you hope to attract young families. The food is freshly cooked, reasonably priced and comes with good service and a smile. All of which means the place is back on our radar and well worth a visit... www.thecrowngroombridge.com 01892 864 742
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The Perfect Pub The Crown Inn, one of the oldest pubs in the region and located on the green at Groombridge, has real character, as Jamie Oliver says; it’s “pukka” place to visit
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his glorious village pub is the perfect place to enjoy a delicious foamy real ale, including beers from Black Cat Brewery in Groombridge and tuck into some hearty home-made food, surrounded by centuries of scandalous history. Dating back to 1585, it not only has ancient beams, but also a collection of old tankards etc ,hanging from the ceiling. What’s more this was the meeting place of the Groombridge Gang a notorious outfit of 18th century smugglers. The Crown is run by Steve Harmes who
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prefers a pub to be the pumping heart of a community with a warm friendly atmosphere and bags of character and charm. “ The pub has always been an important part of village life,” he says. “We have given the Crown a new lease of life and re hung the original crest above the door, providing a sense of the pubs history and tradition for our customers”. The pub’s kitchen has been given the coveted gold five star award, and the food that comes out of it is simply mouth watering; the homemade burgers and pies are a speciality, served with mash or chips
and veg. They’re popular all year round. And if the ghosts of bygone villains aren’t big enough celebrities, TV chef Jamie Oliver named The Crown one of the top 100 pubs in the South East. Find The Crown inn on Facebook , or reserve a table via the website or phone. The Crown’s menu is available online all year round. The Crown Inn Groombridge, Nr Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN3 9QH - 01892 864742 www.thecrowngroombridge.com
13/12/2013 13:53
Simple, stylish dining At The Camden Arms in Pembury, it’s all about a strong menu, fresh produce and good service Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to food? We have always offered quality food but now we are really striving to use as much local produce as possible in our dishes, not only to support our local community and economy but because Kent has some of the best produce on offer. Everything is prepared fresh and is the result of inspiration and product availability - not process, so the menu changes frequently depending on what has been grown, picked or delivered that day. We have promoted local produce here at the Camden Arms, so it was a natural progression for us to join Produced in Kent, an organisation formed to help promote local produce. We already utilise a lot of Kent’s best produce and we will be adding much more to our new menus in 2014. How and when did you get involved in this place? We – James and Carol Cunningham – have been proprietors at the Camden Arms for 11 years and have been in the catering industry over 45 years. The centre of the village of Pembury, the Camden Arms was a challenge when we first took it over but building its reputation has been very rewarding. With the addition of a 15-room accommodation wing five years ago, this 17th century
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coaching inn could again call itself “The Camden Arms Hotel”. The hotel brings guests from all over the world and we have added a few continental dishes to our menu in appreciation of our short staying guests. Today James and Carol are very much at ‘the helm’ but we’re proud that it is a family run business, with true family values. Describe the type of dishes on your menu Simple, stylish dining. Our restaurant offers a variety of dishes to complement Kentish produce. We pride ourselves on creating excellent food using fresh local ingredients. In the summer months, you can enjoy dining al fresco on our sun terrace. Our menu is available daily between noon and 9pm and offers simplistic dining in a casual atmosphere and on Sunday, we offer a three-meat carvery. No problem. Whether you are gluten free, vegan or vegetarian, just let us know when making your room or table reservation, as nothing is too much trouble for Chef and his team. What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? The Camden Arms’s best seller is the Sunday carvery – at under £11 it’s a good reason not to cook a Sunday roast! But our ‘must taste’ dishes have to include the Sizzling Fajitas,
served with either beef or chicken; the smell as they are brought sizzling to the table is only the prelude to the effect on the taste buds! We are also proud of our homemade puddings and pies, deeply filled and cooked to order. What sets your place apart from the others? A good menu, fresh produce and good service are words used by everyone in this publication and whilst very important, they are prerequisites for any successful restaurant. What sets us apart is our whole business ethos: Innovation – the desire to present local meat, vegetables and fruit ingredients in new and exciting ways; Quality – every product we make is made to the highest quality and standard of presentation; Sustainability – our food is locally sourced wherever possible, from ethical and like-minded suppliers; Relationships – we strive to build good relationships with our customers, colleagues and suppliers; Enjoy – we simply love food. We want you to enjoy your experience with us at The Camden Arms Hotel. Can you describe your restaurant in five words? No, just one – great!
13/12/2013 13:18
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What’s cooking in 2014? We are always experimenting with new ingredients, to produce different taste experiences with classic pub food. Our menu changes monthly to ensure we’re the first to offer fresh local produce as and when it is picked or harvested, together with other ingredients sourced from as far away as France. (Yes, we really do go monthly to French markets.) For 2014 we are going back to basics, enhancing and improving our classic pub dishes, with an emphasis on ‘fresh and seasonal produce’. Returning for the winter months will be our homemade pies and puddings, with six different fillings, homemade soup and flavours changing daily. As spring approaches, locally reared lamb will be on the menu in various mouth-watering dishes. Our local fish supplier will ensure we have the prize of the catch, all sourced from the waters of the South Coast. Summer will see a variety of colourful salads on the menu including a crab and avocado and a superb salad Nicoise. These will be on the menu alongside our customers’ favourites, such as the rack of ribs, with smoked Mississippi or spicy chilli sauce and our home ground steak burgers. Also popular in 2014 will be dishes like a whole or half roast chicken served to share, a herb incrusted shoulder of lamb, or maybe a home smoked pulled pork sandwich!
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Enjoy the complete Italian experience Take a glimpse behind the scenes at Signor Franco in Tunbridge Wells to find out how their menu stays fresh, exciting and innovative So, how has 2013 been at Signor Franco? We’ve had a wonderful year – we introduced some new staff and strategies that have really worked for us and, happily, been well received by our customers. We introduced new creative dishes and ingredients and added even more fine wines to our menu; consequently, our diner numbers are up. Next year promises even more, with Fran [Executive Head Chef, Francesco Furriello] and his team pushing the boundaries of authentic Italian culinary to produce new, innovative dishes. What have been your most popular dishes this year? Throughout 2013 Fran gave us glimpses of what he can do; in 2014 he plans to really surprise with some unusual flavours and ingredients. Outstanding and memorable dishes of the last year have included fresh nettle soup, venison with chocolate, sea bream with monks beard and scallops with truffled cauliflower and cocoa. He’s
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always experimenting with new textures and tastes, so foodies should watch this space. Has your menu or approach to food evolved during 2013? The Great British public have come a long way and the discerning diners of Tunbridge Wells and the surrounding area are no exception. Having seen chefs showcasing their craft on television, they now seem braver in trying bolder flavours and more adventurous choices. Some, however, are always happy to stick to what they know, whether that’s Fran’s linguine with razor clams, a veal chop or creamy mozzarella paired with sweet, salty Parma ham. How is your food ethos explored in your eatery? We have some unusual ingredients in store for 2014 and these will include roasted baby goat, suckling pig, squid ink risotto and maybe even ‘zampone’, otherwise known as pig’s trotter with
lentils. Here, we’re always evolving and trying new things. We experiment with new dishes in the kitchen and fresh attractions out front, in the restaurant - it’s all integral to the complete Franco dining experience. King scallops with Drambuie reduction was another particular highlight. Meanwhile, Ellen Rowley played her classical harp - a perfect accompaniment - in a bid to satisfy all the senses. How does your place stand out from the crowd? Our customers are incredibly important to us, just as they were with Franco; many are counted as real friends. When we hosted the Macmillan Coffee morning in October, Bob Nicholls, a renowned London pianist in his day and a customer who has been coming to the restaurant since it opened, brought his piano music and serenaded everyone, much to our joy. I am sure it was partly due to Bob that everyone was incredibly generous and we raised a
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fantastic £1,000. We love being inclusive and being able to offer something extra and different - like our recent jazz evenings, where Robert Reid and his jazz piano had everyone’s toes tapping. Or when we recently opened some wine from Signor Franco’s private cellar; everyone having lunch was offered a glass. We have two local businessmen who eat at Franco’s at least three times a week. As we know them so well, they are allowed to go ‘off piste’ and order what they like. Fran and Enrico, our Manager, like to give them new things to try. There’s a rapport that we have built up with many of our regular clientele; a benefit to both parties and something we value highly. Many customers have a favourite table or dish, not on the menu, and often telephone ahead to request it. I love that, where we can, we fulfil these requests – effectively offering a bespoke service, not available elsewhere. Customers feel comfortable enough with us to enjoy showing us their holiday photographs or trying out their Italian phrases. Meanwhile, Enrico will always make sure the little ones are safe in a high chair with a huge white napkin tied around their necks before the pasta is delivered. What’s your favourite aspect of working in food? The food is evolving all the time; using the best ingredients, our menu is exemplary and imaginative. Fran wants to push the boundaries which constantly raises the bar - surprising and delighting the diners. Signor Franco’s is a friendly venue with great food; somewhere where Italian fine dining can be tried and enjoyed. We make it accessible. Our aim is to maintain that comfortable, lively, authentic Italian atmosphere, delivering great food, service and value for money.
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13/12/2013 13:46
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Less is more for village pub Determined to provide a first rate dining experience, the team at the Goudhurst Inn believes that care and passion are the magic ingredients Since you appeared in the Jolly Good Grub Guide 2013, what’s been happening? We have continued to build a sustainable and successful business with the many challenges that any new venture has to deal with and overcome. We have evolved our offer in terms of food and the surroundings; this summer we invested further in our terrace to promote and exploit the unique situation and views that we are blessed with in this beautiful part of the Weald. And we also secured, for a second year running, a listing in the Michelin Eating Pubs Guide 2014 that celebrates the top 550 pubs in the UK. We think that’s pretty good. Which dishes have been a particular hit with diners? It’s the classic dishes that remain popular, with our amazing Scotch eggs and super indulgent sticky toffee pudding always a winner; people travel from afar to enjoy and savour. It goes without saying that locally sourced beef rib eye and lamb cuts, cooked with care and passion, always deliver on taste and simplicity. As you would expect from a village pub, game will
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feature during season cooked in a number of different styles from venison casserole to wood pigeon and beetroot salad. Has your menu evolved during 2013? I believe our menu and approach to food has matured; we now have the team and the confidence that we know what we stand for and how we would like to deliver on our brand promise of ‘less is more’. We are only interested in being a first rate version of ourselves, rather than a second rate version of someone else. Does your ethos come across in your food? Our ethos is very much ‘keep it simple’ and ‘less is more’ – of course, this doesn’t mean we can’t explore and be innovative and unexpected, but it keeps egos at bay and ensures that the entire team understand what they are delivering and what is expected. We are always thinking about the overall experience, everything from the glassware to the artwork hanging on the walls to the attitudes of our staff. The devil is in the detail and then
delivering it day in, day out, for 365 days a year. What makes your place different? A clear and distinct brand that cuts through everything that we do, along with good people that give a damn and go that extra mile to deliver the best experience we can. It really is the little things that help any business stand out from its competitors and a clear sense of what they do and what they stand for – sadly there are too many “me too’s” in this world. What’s your favourite aspect of working in food? There is no doubt that we are in the ‘delivering happiness’ business and when you get it right, it’s the best feeling ever. Also, it’s great working with the crafts men and women who produce and supply the best ingredients fresh daily, with a commitment and passion that is unwavering and to be admired. Ultimately, it all comes down to celebrating the simple and beautiful things in life with good food and drink and loved ones. Simple.
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What can we expect from you in 2014? There will always be the new and innovative, and we will experiment and explore how we might bring something a little special and unusual. But as underlined by the award of ‘best restaurant in the UK’ to The Hand and Flowers pub in Buckinghamshire, there will always be a place for quality produce, prepared and cooked with lots of love and honesty in comfortable, unpretentious surroundings. Fads and fashions will come and go, but enduring classic food will remain the cornerstone and foundation that the food industry will be built on for a long time to come. We see opportunity to create new sensations and new collisions of flavours that can be unexpected. We’re also looking to bring a more international feel to our menu, but with a twist or tweak that ensures that it’s on brand and something we can be proud of.
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For All Your Cooking Requirements
01892 538 915 ďż˝ info@trevormottram.co.uk 33-41 The Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TE www.trevormottram.co.uk SoTW_Jan14_Page31.indd 3
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