The Jolly Good Grub Guide 2015 by One Media

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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Model shown Kl38 — £27,971* Krieder showrooM — 3 Chapel Place, Tunbridge wells, Kent Tn1 1YQ — 01892 619721 — info@krieder.com — www.krieder.com *Price shown includes delivery, cabinet furniture, appliances, worktops and VAT

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01/12/2014 13:55

KRIEDER Krieder FoodieGuide_SOTW _DPS_Dec14.indd 3

01/12/2014 10/06/2014 13:55 09:18

ROSEMARY SHRAGER'.__S c

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ARE YOU: • Aged between 16 and 24? • Currently out of education, We offer a wide range of hands- on full and half day cookery courses where you will learn prac ti cal skills that you will use every day.

employment or training? • Interested in becoming a qualified chef in as little as 12 months?

Enjoy our Chef's Table Dining Experi ence o n Friday and Saturday evenings with a different 5 course

"YES!"

tasting m enu each week. We also provide bespoke, tailor- m ade packages for: Corpo rate events Teambuilding Priva te celebrations Evening events Our courses offer the perfect balance of demo nstrati ons, carri ed out by our talented chefs, and hands- on cooking. Day co urses finish with a leisurely three course lunch accompanied by a

WHY? Because we are looking for enthusiastic, ambitious, young people who have a passion for food and would like to be trained by Rosemary Shrager and her team of talented chefs, in our new, state-of-the-art, professional kitchen in Tunbridge Wells. We are offering both NVQs and VRQs, Level 2 (& 3), all endorsed by East Kent College.

glass of wine. C hefs Rosem ary Shrager and John R ogers fi rmly believe in supp orting local suppliers and producers, sourcing the best of the season's produce.

ROSEMARY SHR_AGER'._S COOKERY

SCHOOL

The Corn Exchange, The Pantiles,

Kent

County Council kent .gov.uk

Apprenticeships

~)))

.t'.,.( East Kent

College

Royal Tunbridge Wells, KentTN2 STE

WE STILL HAVE SPACES, SO APPLY TODAY

www.rosemaryshrager.com

@ RSCo okery Sch ool

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RS CookerySch ool

Email apprentices@rosemaryshrager. corn or call Nisus on 01892 528700 for more information.

Telephone: 01892 528700

O Shragersapprenticeships O RSApprentices

E nquiries:

'"n,;"n,;" .rosemaryshrager.com

school@ rosemaryshrager.com

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01/12/2014 13:51

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SPONSORED BY

contents SANKEY’S PUB, OLD FISHMARKET & FISHMONGERS, TUNBRIDGE WELLS Discover a surprising menu addition at these seafood havens ALEXANDER HOUSE, TURNERS HILL Imagination is everything at this acclaimed restaurant THE DORSET ARMS, HARTFIELD Award winning cattle and seasonal game add flavour to the menu CHAPTER ONE, LOCKBOTTOM Enjoy Michelin-starred dining at affordable prices THE NEVILL CREST & GUN, ERIDGE GREEN Monthly menu changes keep the taste sensations fresh SALOMONS BISTRO, SOUTHBOROUGH Exquisite cuisine in an elegant country house setting THE GOUDHURST INN, GOUDHURST Winery collaboration leads to exciting new developments

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THE CURLEW, BODIAM Find out why this place is full of star quality THE LITTLE BROWN JUG, CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY Be tempted by the chef’s signature dish of braised lamb THE CAMDEN ARMS, PEMBURY New innovations mean the food is really smoking at this pub THE KINGS HEAD, SEVENOAKS Try your hand at a delicious dish fit for royalty THE MARK CROSS INN, MARK CROSS Travel and great ingredients are the Head Chef’s inspirations THE CHASER INN, SHIPBOURNE Fresh, local and seasonal – the three keys to success

01/12/2014 15:40

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

the spa hotel - tunbridge wells The Spa Hotel in Tunbridge Wells is celebrating the win of a prestigious food award and getting ready for the New Year with a fabulous makeover and planned expansion. We hear about some of their latest develops from Ant Scragg (pictured) and how there will be even more for customers to look forward to in 2015 CUISINE: Classically based modern British ADDRESS: Mount Ephraim, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8XJ TEL: 01892 520 331 WEB: www.spahotel.co.uk NAME: Proprietor Ant Scragg

AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Award-winning When Head Chef Neil Wiggins first arrived at The Spa, he vowed to raise the standards and has done just that, as The Spa has recently received a two-Rosette accolade from the AA. Two Restaurants Following the expansion of the hotel bar Zagatos to create a new Brasserie, The Spa now offers locals a choice of two restaurants. The Chandelier Restaurant offers guests fine dining in elegant surroundings, while Zagatos Brasserie offers a more relaxed experience. The décor has a fun ‘mix ‘n’ match’ feel with relaxing greens and creams, and while the service is still first-class, the vibe is very much home from home. The Menus Guests in the Chandelier Restaurant can

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choose from the à la carte menu, or the seasonal menu du jour, with classic dishes such as ‘poached lemon sole with cider mussels, spring onions and crème fraiche’ and ‘roast cannon of lamb, lamb’s kidney, dauphinoise potatoes and roasted baby vegetables.’ Zagatos Brasserie offers all the posh pub favourites, plus sharing platters and quality steaks straight from the chargrill.

Spa by Name OK, it’s not exactly food related, but the most exciting plan of all is the proposed expansion and refurbishment of Spa Spa. The top secret plans are being finalised at the moment, however the idea is to create a spa befitting the hotel’s name. Keep an eye on the website for more info!

New for 2015 With the success of the new-look Brasserie, the refurbishments are set to continue into the New Year and January will see the hotel’s main lounge completely transformed with more stylish, contemporary décor, yet retaining that comfortable homely lounge feel. Afternoon teas continue to be as popular as ever and we are really excited about the new lounge scheme.

01/12/2014 16:32

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SPONSORED BY

Hello... Welcome to the latest edition of the Jolly Good Grub Guide – we hope you’re hungry!

ithin these pages you’ll discover a mouth-watering array of gastronomic gems across West Kent and East Sussex. Being based in our beautiful part of the world, chefs have access to some of the best local produce in the country, a resource that is put to very good use at these high quality eateries.

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When you add our breathtaking Wealden scenery to the equation, it all adds up to a spectacular foodie scene. So, where will your gourmet adventures take you this year? Will you pull up a chair in a picturesque country pub, ready to tuck into their local, seasonal game and traditional British dishes? Or are you in the mood for elegant European

cuisine in a stunning country house style setting? A selection of the country’s most divine seafood is also on the menu, while at another village hostelry you’ll find that great food and great wine go hand in hand. But why choose? When there’s such an exquisite food and drink offering right here on our doorstep, surely we have a duty to try it all...

01/12/2014 15:38

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SANKEY’S - TUNBRIDGE WELLS THE PUB & SEAFOOD BRASSERIE 39 Mount Ephraim, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8AA sankeys@sankeys.co.uk facebook.com/sankeys @sankeysRTW Tel: 01892 511 422 THE OLD FISHMARKET 19 The Upper Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TN ofm@sankeys.co.uk facebook.com/TheOldFishmarketPantiles @sankeysRTW Tel: 01892 511 422 THE FISHMONGERS 9 Vale Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1BS fishmongers@sankeys.co.uk facebook.com/SankeysFishmongers @sankeyfish Tel: 01892 511 422 WEBSITE: www.sankeys.co.uk NAME: Matthew Sankey

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What happened in 2014? 2014 was a big year for us – we traded in The Pantiles during a summer for the first time. The weather was great, we put on some great jazz, the markets have been rejuvenated and the food festivals were the best ever. At Mount Ephraim we worked hard improving the business with things we had learned from our project in The Pantiles. The Seafood Brassiere underwent a total refurbishment, with a brief of increasing the quality of the

01/12/2014 15:37

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

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MEET THE CHEF

Simon Wilson, Head Chef at Sankey’s The Seafood Brasserie & The Pub Mount Ephraim

How long have you worked here? I started with Sankey’s in 2004 with a small sabbatical in 2008. Describe your culinary background. I started off as a Kitchen Porter when I was 17 in a 14th century pub, The Blackboys Inn, where I worked my way up in the kitchen. I was there for almost 10 years and was Head Chef by the time I left. I worked for a few years in Australia and when I returned Sankey’s were looking for chefs, so I applied and here I am. Tell us about your approach to food. I love using the best ingredients and then creating something fantastic. Who’s your food hero? Keith Floyd – I love him. He was the original TV chef. Although I suppose he is to blame for it being fashionable to be a TV chef these days. What is your signature dish? I make a mean Kedgeree, but I like to consider myself as a very strong allrounder. I prefer savoury dishes personally. What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try next year? My burgers! Joking aside, my favourite thing on our menu is the lobster and crab platter. Cooked fresh to order, it really is mouth-watering.

dining experience via better service and environment. It really looks fabulous now. In the pub we have been at the forefront of the craft beer revolution in the town, some of the beers that we have drunk in the last year have been some of the best I have ever known! Did your menu evolve last year and if so, how? Our menus are constantly evolving. I put this down to three factors: firstly, the produce we purchase is seasonal and the fish is wild so we are always at the mercy of the weather gods and ensuring we are sustainable. Secondly, our customers’ demands are always changing and we try to both react to and pro-actively match this; it’s all about listening to what the customer wants. Finally, our staff are constantly developing personally and that comes across in the food that we produce for sure. Tell us about your favourite food discovery of the last twelve months. This might sound strange but I was very

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lucky to visit Argentina this year to watch some rugby and taste some wine. I stumbled upon the most incredible burger shop! The place was buzzing and the burgers were fantastic, they did great beer too. From a fish side I’ve got to say that Chefs Harvey and Jack at The Old Fishmarket have blown me away. I knew they were good but they have exceeded all expectations for year one with the quality, originality and consistency of their produce.

Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations this year? We are ever so lucky here in Tunbridge Wells, it’s a vibrant place with an abundance of food and drinking establishments to choose from. This means that we all have to keep on our feet and make sure the products and service we are supplying is the very best we can do and then keep on improving it. There is no opportunity to lie down here, you will be eaten alive.

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

MEET THE CHEF

What’s new for your diners this year? We have a few plans for expansion, but I’m unable to speak about those right now. Our pub menu has been developed; we are known for our fish obviously but our chefs are very talented and our pub menu is fabulous. I’ve brought my burger ideas to the table and Simon and his team have run with it! I’d strongly recommend popping in and sampling our pub menu sometime.

Jack Hone, Sous Chef at The Old Fishmarket by Sankey’s How long have you worked here? I joined Sankey’s in November 2013 for the opening of The Old Fishmarket. Describe your culinary background. I trained at Westminster Kingsway, then I worked in a few restaurants and golf clubs in the south east honing my skills, before finally finding my calling here at The Old Fishmarket. Tell us about your approach to food. I like to keep it simple. The south east is the best area for produce so I like it to speak for itself. However, a little presentation helps it to get its message across nicely. Who’s your food hero? I do love Gordon Ramsey if you’re looking for a TV chef. But I really admire Georgio Locatelli as he produces some incredible food. What is your signature dish? One of the most popular dishes we have done at The Old Fishmarket was a steamed Dover Sole with panko Colchester Rock Oysters served with a tarragon veloute. It’s all about balancing the flavours and textures. What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015? Oysters –100%! I am so lucky to have such a variety of these amazing pockets of taste here in my kitchen. It’s not just about the raw natural oysters, either; they are incredible when cooked or even smoked.

Can you give a food trend prediction for 2015? Whilst earlier I mentioned that we are so very lucky in Tunbridge Wells, I feel that there is a trend forming with large chain restaurants opening up around us. Whilst this is fantastic for consumer choice it’s terrible for the local economy. Local traders buy from local people, who employ local people who spend their wages in the local area. Chains buy from large multinational suppliers whose profit is not spent locally at all, and most appear to have interesting tax schemes too. My concern is that they can afford to enter a price war against each other too. Small local traders cannot. There must be a balance; whilst there is no law against competition we must ensure that our local small traders are looked after by the local community and authorities.

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF SANKEY’S RECIPES

Sankey’s Smokie INGREDIENTS 500g skinless, pin boned natural smoked haddock (your fishmongers can prepare this for you) 200g raw peeled & deveined tiger prawns

DIRECTIONS 1) Gently poach the haddock in the milk for about five minutes. 2) Make a roux by melting the butter in a pan, add the flour bit by bit to make a paste and cook on for about one minute on a low heat.

100g unsalted butter

3) Strain the milk and slowly add it to the roux to make a white sauce. Stir for around 15 minutes or until you get a nice even thick sauce.

100g plain flour

4) Then add two handfuls of the grated cheese, stir in and remove from the heat.

1pt full fat milk

5) In a separate pan poach the tiger prawns until cooked – about two mins or until they go orange.

Palm full of shopped parsley (flat or curly)

6) In a baking dish (or you can do this individually) layer the spinach on the bottom of the dish, then

3 handfuls of grated cheddar

7) Add the haddock & prawns before evenly pouring in the sauce. Coat with the remaining cheese and brown under a hot grill.

4 small handfuls of spinach

8) If you wish you can serve with a poached egg on top.

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01/12/2014 16:39

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

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ALEXANDER HOUSE HOTEL - EAST GRINSTEAD CUISINE: European ADDRESS: AG’s Restaurant at Alexander House Hotel, East Street, Turners Hill, East Grinstead RH10 4QD TEL: 01342 714 914 WEB: www.alexanderhouse.co.uk NAME: Mark Budd, Executive Chef

How long have you worked at Alexander House? I’ve been here for three and a half years. Describe your culinary background Having spent over 20 years working in some of London’s most prominent establishments, such as The Stafford, I have a deep appreciation for all elements of food; from the education in flavours and styles of cuisine, to the way in which cooking has

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evolved over the years and the execution and delivery of the perfect dish. Tell us about your approach to food My ethos is to champion classic cooking, which remains at the heart of my food. I then evolve my dishes with inspiration that comes not only from the season but from my present environment. Imagination is everything and there is nothing more inspiring than the beautiful Sussex countryside at my backdoor.

have one particular signature dish. What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try this year? Pork can often be underestimated so I would definitely recommend our braised Gloucester old spot pork and crackling, served in AG’s Restaurant. The meat is slow cooked in our “big green egg” with bold ingredients that give this simple dish a remarkable flavour.

Who is your food hero? My grandmother. She was a pastry chef who used to visit every Sunday and bake everything from éclairs to traditional sponge puddings in winter. She was one of the most influential people in my life and taught me to believe in my own standard of cooking and never be afraid to be playful with my food. What is your signature dish? I don’t really have one as it changes all the time! I like to keep my dishes evolving so although I have a few favourites, I can’t say I

01/12/2014 16:27

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE DORSET ARMS - WITHYHAM

CUISINE: Traditional English ADDRESS: Buckhurst Park, Withyham, Hartfield, East Sussex TN7 4BD TEL: 01892 770 278 WEB: www.dorset-arms.co.uk NAME: Bar Manager Alex Bishop and Restaurant Manager Charlie Blundell

Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethos Our Head Chef, Simon Brazier, creates simple yet delicious dishes using as much local produce as possible. We source most of our meat from The Buckhurst Estate. Our fish comes from Veasey and Sons in Forest Row and is caught fresh daily from the South Coast. Describe the type of cuisine on your menu Currently we have a lot of game, as it’s in season. We also use award winning Sussex Cattle and Buckhurst Blue – Lord De La Warr’s pigs. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? The Scotch egg with mustard mayonnaise. It’s made with eggs from the estate and Buckhurst sausage meat, then cooked to perfection and still gooey in the middle. Other favourites include crab on toast and venison steak served with stilton mashed potato, glazed parsnips and a redcurrant jus. Plus,

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“Our Head Chef, Simon Brazier, creates simple yet delicious dishes using as much local produce as possible” there’s the venison burger with blue cheese and pommes frites or grilled flat iron chicken with rocket salad and frites, in addition to whole lemon sole with samphire, brown shrimps and pommes frites.

01/12/2014 16:30

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

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MEET THE CHEF Simon Brazier

How long have you worked here?

Do you have any specialist skills?

I’ve been here since November 2013.

Timing, consistency and prioritising are among my strengths – I would say I’m a good

What was your first experience of cooking?

all-rounder.

I remember baking with my Nan when I was What’s your signature dish?

a child.

Ballotine of partridge with celeriac and blue What inspired you to become a chef?

cheese panna cotta – a special from the

I was motivated into this career by my love

beginning of this year. And the warm pigeon

of food.

salad on our current menu.

Where did you train?

Is your cooking influenced by any

At the Royal Wells Hotel, Tunbridge Wells

particular region or style?

and day release at Butler’s Wharf Chef

Not really, I do quite a few classical dishes

School in London.

but I usually just use whatever style

“Food is a science and you need to be interested in it to succeed”

necessary for the dish I am creating. What was your first job in the industry? I became a trainee chef at The Royal

What has been the highlight of your career

Wells Hotel.

so far? When one of my trainee chefs made it to the

Has a particular chef influenced your

finals of MasterChef: The Professionals.

career? I would say Robert Sloane, who is proprietor

What do you enjoy most about being a chef?

and Head Chef at The Royal Wells Hotel.

Producing good food and the feedback that goes with it.

Have you or your restaurants won any awards?

To be a great chef you need to be…

The George and Dragon at Ightham

Dedicated and passionate! Food is a

won Best Gastro Pub 2010 in the

science and you need to be interested

South East.

in it to succeed.

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES

Scotch egg Makes 4 eggs INGREDIENTS 4 eggs, plus 1 for egg wash 400g Buckhurst sausage meat, rolled out to 1cm thick 200g breadcrumbs (chef recommends Panko) 200g flour Splash of milk for egg wash

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DIRECTIONS 1) Bring a pan of water to the boil and boil the eggs for six minutes 2) Refresh the eggs by placing in cold water, then peel 3) Wrap with 100g of sausage meat each, making sure you have even covering all the way around each egg 4) Flour, egg and breadcrumb the sausage-covered eggs 5) Deep fry for eight minutes (this will leave the middle of the egg a little runny) 6) To serve, cut in half and accompany with baby leaf salad and mustard mayonnaise

01/12/2014 16:30

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

Start a new chapter If you long to dine in a Michelin-starred restaurant, you don’t need to travel to London – Chapter One in Farnborough Common, Kent, offers an award-winning culinary experience right here on our doorstep. And fine dining doesn’t have to cost a fortune, as Erik Brown discovers

kay, let’s start with a little quiz. Where can you get lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant for less than you might pay at your local gastro pub? The answer is, not far away: at Chapter One in Farnborough, Kent. The menu du jour is just £19.95, but even a normal three-course lunch can be ordered from the à la carte menu for just £27; dinner is £38.50 on Fridays or Saturdays and, on Sunday evenings, £33.50. It goes without saying that the food is exemplary; in fact, I had my favourite starter of the year there not long ago, but more of that later. What really interests me is the quality of the service. It is, quite simply, better than many lauded West End restaurants and hotels, not because Chapter One is

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less busy – it does 1,500 covers a week, which is seriously hard work with a kitchen brigade of 16 – but because the training is rigorous and the staff are well chosen. Our waitress, Karina, a Latvian, floats through the restaurant and around the tables, always alert, always relaxed like – to quote award-winning restaurant manager, Fred Sirieix – “a gazelle on Red Bull”. When I ask her where she has worked before, she names one of my favourite restaurants in London: Galvin’s Bistrot de Luxe on Baker Street. It figures. And so to that starter – jugged hare (£5). Yes, jugged hare, usually a heavyweight main meal, gamey and strong, often matched by a good claret (a Berry Brothers & Rudd Good Ordinary will do nicely, thank you). I last had jugged hare at Rules in Covent Garden, so long ago that I smoked

01/12/2014 15:27

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SPONSORED BY

THE JUGGED HARE

ROAST GROUSE

PANNA COTTA

The panna cotta is very light and sweet with just a hint of the salty peanut butter that strolls slowly in like a bouncer, until it hits the taste buds with surprising force a cigar afterwards – at the table, in the restaurant. I haven’t smoked in more than a decade. At Chapter One, the jugged hare is presented in a glass with an espume of mashed potato on top and with three sticks of hare satay alongside. It looks like an Irish coffee and it tastes divine. Jugged hare is a quintessentially British dish. Its earthy flavour is up there with the white truffle as a gastronomic experience. I adored it as a starter and, at just a fiver, it was cheaper than the first courses in most of the pubs I use in Kent and Sussex. The jugged hare is preceded by an off-menu sweet and foamy parsnip soup as an amuse bouche and followed by a thin terrine of foie gras with duck, macadamia nuts, fig purée, celeriac purée and tiny shimeji mushrooms and toasted fruit bread (£7.95). And that’s before the roast Yorkshire grouse and pithivier of leg with creamed curly kale, Jerusalem artichokes and sloe gin and grouse jus (£17). Now, it’s really hard to run a Michelinstarred restaurant. The quality of the food has to be consistent; the quality of the napkins, cutlery and crockery has to be top-end; the front of house staff have to be

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exquisitely well trained, and there have to be a lot of them; and the kitchen brigade has to consist of trained chefs – not one trained chef and some guys on an hourly rate – but all trained chefs. If you’re trying to do that in Central London, with London rents, it’s actually quite difficult to make money at all, which is why so many chefs become celebrities. They have to make money out of their brand with books first, then with TV programmes and, eventually, a few of them open restaurant chains emblazoned with their names. So, how does Chapter One’s Chef Patron Andrew McLeish manage to run a Michelin-starred restaurant inside the M25 at pub prices? Well, first of all, he and his team work like crazy. If 16 chefs sounds like a lot, you have to realise that Chapter One is a seven day a week operation. And then Andrew goes for the tastier, less expensive cuts – often shooting game for the pot himself. The menu is seasonal too, with damsons and cob nuts accompanying a warm salad of local wood pigeon (£5) on the day I was there. So, he shops cleverly and he shops locally. So many restaurants these days – especially chain restaurants, or whatever

they are called – are production lines in which pre-prepared ingredients are assembled by a chef and some assistants. Hold that thought and let’s just go back to that pithivier of grouse leg and the sloe gin and grouse jus. You’d have to be a pretty serious chef to put that together. That’s not an assembly job; it takes skill, care and talent. And it’s wonderful, with the pastry crust on the pithivier as thin as a credit card and as crisp as a biscuit and the grouse leg inside savoury and light. The jugged hare is the standout course for me, but it nearly loses out to a peanut butter panna cotta with golden lime sorbet and morello cherry foam (£5). At the beginning, the panna cotta is very light and sweet with just a hint of the salty peanut butter that strolls slowly in like a bouncer, until it hits the taste buds with surprising force. He knows his desserts, Andrew McLeish – there’s a touch of genius in every one.

Chapter One Farnborough Common, Locksbottom, Kent, BR6 8NF 01689 854 848 www.chapteronerestaurant.co.uk

01/12/2014 15:28

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE NEVILL CREST AND GUN - ERIDGE GREEN CUISINE: British ADDRESS: Eridge Road, Eridge Green, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 9JR TEL: 01892 864 209 WEB: www.brunningandprice.co.uk/ nevillcrestandgun NAME: Chef James Hodgson

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What was 2014 like for your pub? It was a busy year for us here at The Nevill Crest and Gun. We couldn’t wait to start the New Year as our Christmas in 2013 was slightly tainted by a six-day power cut caused by the huge storms. Our customers were excellent, though – very understanding and sympathetic. It was a bit like a soup kitchen here on Christmas Day as we gave away what food we could to diners who had nothing for Christmas lunch! In January we hosted our first Burns supper with a bagpiper, whisky tasting and, of course, lots of haggis. We were fully booked and a great night was had by all; many sore heads were nursed the next day! Our next big event of the year was our Vintage weekend in August. The weekend was full of excitement, with all the staff getting on board with some great uniforms and outfits. Some 30 real ales and ciders were showcased, along with a gin tea party on Sunday. The weekend was finished in style by the kings of swing, The Jive Aces. The gardens here have been looked after with passion and style, all thanks to

Graham, our gardener. As the seasons have changed, the gardens have been mowed with precision and the borders have been bursting with colour. There have been several additions to our dynamic team here, including our first Welsh lass, Rebecca Bowen from Loch Fyne, and Ben Cox, who joins as a career change from a nine-to-five office job! The kitchen team continue to be motivated and led by our Head Chef Jason and Sous Chef Paul, who bring lots of experience and knowledge to the table. How has your menu evolved? It changes monthly and we constantly work with our suppliers to get the best out of seasonal produce. We have a traditional pub-style menu with some more unusual dishes thrown in for the more adventurous. Tell us about your top food discovery of last year My personal favourite would definitely be Ras el hanout, which is a spice mix from North Africa. It’s fantastic in rich, meaty tagines!

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

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Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations? Customers are definitely much more interested in the healthier foods and we’ve seen a bigger demand for vegetarian meals, even by meat eaters. It’s always a challenge to constantly introduce new, exciting vegetarian dishes while trying to avoid goat’s cheese or risotto! What’s new for your diners in 2015? We’re introducing a more comprehensive and transparent approach to customers who are affected by food allergies. The Government will be expecting all premises to do the same, but our approach will allow customers to go online and view our menu and the dishes with their allergens displayed. This will help give them peace of mind before they arrive.

MEET THE CHEF Jason Hodgson

How long have you worked here?

We’re constantly changing the menu for

I’ve been at The Nevill since it opened in

the healthier and allergy friendly diners

December 2010.

and keeping the traditional dishes for the loyal customers.

Describe your culinary background Having trained at York Technical College in

Who’s your food hero?

the good old days of City & Guilds, I worked

It has to be Rick Stein for his pioneering

in a local hotel in the city until I spread my

approach of selling to the country what a lovely

wings over to the Channel Islands, where I

array of home-grown fish and shellfish we have

met up with our Executive Chef, Mike Carney.

to try on and around our shores.

Returning to the UK, I worked at Saughton Hall in North Wales in a fine dining hotel and

What’s your signature dish?

restaurant, then moved on to Brunning and

A nice pink rump of lamb with colcannon

Price, working my way up to Head Chef at

mash, accompanied by tender stem broccoli

three of our pub/restaurants. I left for a few

and Chantenay carrots.

years to further ventures at Whiting &

Can you give a food trend prediction for the coming year? Our insatiable appetite for new foods and cultures will continue. I’m a huge fan of low and slow cooked barbecue meats and grills and I reckon we’ll see a lot more chefs experimenting with it.

Hammond before re-joining four years ago.

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015?

Tell us about your approach to food

More local produce from within our

Very focused; things are constantly changing

surrounding county and more unusual

within the industry, so there’s never a dull

food items.

moment and no day is ever the same.

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES 2014 summer lamb rump Roast lamb rump with minted potato cake, tender stem broccoli, herb tomato and mint gravy Serves 1 INGREDIENTS 1 x 6-7oz square cut lamb rump 10 plum tomatoes 3 shallots 4 cloves garlic 4 sprigs thyme 4 sprigs rosemary 3tbsp chopped parsley 5kg peeled potatoes 3 packs butter Seasoning Chopped parsley/mint Broccoli 10 litres good beef stock 1 litre red wine 2 shallots 2 cloves garlic the shallots and garlic, chop the herbs and sweat down in a pan with a little vegetable oil. Once cooked, add the concasse, check the seasoning and fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Place in a tub labelled for service METHOD 3) Cook the potatoes for mash and, when 1) Score the lamb, marinade in garlic and ready to crush, add the butter at the same rosemary and place in the fridge ready for service time. Check the seasoning and add five 2) Cut eight beef tomatoes in half, scoop out the tablespoons of chopped mint, mould into 140g middle and concasse the other two. Finely dice balls and press into cakes. Tray up ready for TO SERVE Panfry the lamb rump in a hot pan, add the cake and tomato and finish off in the oven. Reheat The broccoli and plate as pictured.

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service. Blanch once chilled and tub up ready for service 4) Cook tender stem broccoli 5) Jus. Sweat down the onion, garlic and thyme and add the red wine. Reduce down by half, add the stock and reduce down again by half. Check the consistency, taste and alter where needed 6) Add all the reduction ingredients into a pan and reduce by two thirds

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SALOMONS ESTATE - TUNBRIDGE WELLS

If you want to savour exquisite cuisine in an elegant setting, look no further than the Bistro at Salomons Estate, a country house-style venue set in 36 beautiful acres of grounds. CUISINE: Popular European dishes, sourced locally wherever possible ADDRESS: Salomons Estate, Broomhill Road, Southborough, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 0TG TEL: 01892 515 152 WEB: www.salomons-estate.com NAME: Franck Bellavoine

Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethos The Bistro offers a wide range of traditional and contemporary dishes that appeal to all taste preferences. The Head Chef sources fresh, local ingredients wherever possible and uses seasonal vegetables.

“The atmosphere at Salomons Estate is a winning combination of old-world charm and friendly, attentive service” Describe the type of cuisine on your menu Exotic delicacies such as pan-fried wood pigeon and lightly spiced duck sit alongside more traditional dishes like coq au vin and beer battered cod, while the

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dessert menu features perennial favourites like warm chocolate brownie and sticky toffee pudding. From the Bistro’s grill you can select from a choice of steaks and sauces, or perhaps try Salomons Estate’s homemade gastro burger, with smoked Applewood cheese, spicy tomato chutney, a brioche bun, pickles and gastro chips. Meanwhile, the light bites menu includes lighter options such as a smoked salmon and dill cream cheese bagel and a Parma ham, rocket and pesto ciabatta. What are your ‘must try’ dishes? One dish that comes highly recommended is our braised belly of pork in cider, which is accompanied by potato gratin, roasted apples, braised red cabbage and a cider jus. Another dish that has proved popular with diners is the pan seared salmon with polenta chips, chargrilled asparagus and gremolata.

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MEET THE CHEF Dan Yardley

How long have you worked here?

Who’s your food hero?

I’ve been at Salomons Estate for over 10

I became very interested in the Roux family,

years, beginning as a Chef de Partie. Having

but I’d say that my real role model is Paul

worked under three different head chefs,

Gayler. He was Head Chef at the

I was invited to step into the position

Lanesborough Hotel, where my career took

myself in 2014.

me just before my 18th birthday.

Describe your culinary background

What’s your signature dish?

On leaving catering college, I did events

My seared red snapper with saffron fondant,

catering for the Chelsea Flower Show,

broad bean truffle purée and a bouillabaisse

Hampton Court, Wimbledon and Henley

sauce. It’s a dish I’m very proud of and it was

Regatta before flying over to the Paris Air

a popular choice at the Bistro over the

Show, where I worked alongside Albert Roux.

summer months too.

“From a very young age I was accompanying my mum to bakeries and fruit and veg stalls”

I then spent two years at the five-star Lanesborough Hotel in Hyde Park. It was an

What’s the one dish or delicacy people

absolute buzz because you’re all there for the

should try in 2015?

same reason – your passion for food. It’s

If I had to recommend just one dish

made me who I am today; I’d jumped about

from the current menu, I’d probably

three levels by the time I returned to

say the lightly spiced duck breast

Tunbridge Wells.

with sweet potato dauphinoise, roasted bok choi, red plum and

Tell us about your approach to food

port jus. It has to be experienced

From a very young age I was accompanying

to be believed!

my mum to bakeries and fruit and veg stalls, so she was definitely an early influence on me. That’s one of the reasons I introduced a ‘market menu’, where I’ll source local, fresh produce, new cuts of meat and fish, plus whatever vegetables are in season.

What sets your place apart from other eateries? As well as the exquisite quality of the food and the exceptional level of service, what really sets the Bistro apart is its spectacular setting. Recently refurbished, the Bistro serves breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and, when the weather is fine, guests can dine on the broad terraces and enjoy the stunning views overlooking the lake. When it’s slightly more inclement, diners can still admire the landscaped grounds from the comfort of the conservatory. Can you describe the atmosphere? Intimate, elegant, yet refreshingly unstuffy. The atmosphere at Salomons Estate is a winning combination of old-world charm and friendly, attentive service. Sum up your restaurant in a few words Exquisite cuisine in a beautiful setting.

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NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES Spiced duck breast with sweet potato dauphinoise, bok choi, plums and a red wine jus Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 5kg chicken bones 5kg veal bones 2 litres red wine 2 onions 3 carrots 1 head of celery 1 small bulb of garlic 2 sweet potatoes 1 litre cream 1 duck breast 1 tsp olive oil Aromatic spices 1 head of bok choi 1 plum

DIRECTIONS FOR THE SWEET POTATO DAUPHINOISE 1) Finely chop a small bulb of garlic 2) Lightly fry this in a saucepan and add one litre of cream, then season 3) Line one deep baking tray with parchment paper 4) Peel and thinly slice two sweet potatoes. Layer the sweet potato in the baking tray until it is about one inch deep, pour the cream over the potato and place in the oven at 170°C for about 20 minutes

DIRECTIONS FOR THE SPICED DUCK BREAST 1) Lightly spice the duck breast with aromatic spices and seasoning 2) Heat one teaspoon of olive oil in a frying pan until it is almost smoking 3) Fry the duck breast for one minute on each side and place in the oven for about 15 minutes 4) Just before you serve the meal, oil and season the halved plum and bok choi. Place under the grill for five minutes

01/12/2014 16:27

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE GOUDHURST INN - GOUDHURST

CUISINE: Modern British / European ADDRESS: Cranbrook Road, Goudhurst, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 1DX TEL: 01580 212 605 WEB: www.thegoudhurstinn.com NAME: General Manager Lois Dignan & Head Chef Ian Hickmott

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What’s been happening in the last year? For a third year running we’ve secured a listing in the Michelin Eating Pub Guide 2014, which celebrates the top 550 pubs in the UK – we think that’s pretty good! Alongside this, we continue to build The Goudhurst Inn into a sustainable and successful rural business. We continue to focus on food and the surroundings; the terrace looks out over one of the most beautiful views of the Weald, and our cosy indoor log fires will keep you warm in winter. With such versatile space inside and out, we’ve also catered for weddings, anniversaries, birthday parties, office events and family get-togethers. We love hosting a good party, whatever the time of year! In August 2014 The Goudhurst Inn became part of Hush Heath Winery, bringing together two great local businesses that support and invest in local talent. The coming year promises to be an exciting time, as further investment is planned and we will be working to develop the great food that has always been on offer, while also building on the wine, restaurant and hospitality links that promise something different in this part of England. Watch this space for what Hush Heath has to bring to the next stage of The Goudhurst Inn…

MEET THE CHEF

Ian Hickmott, Head Chef How long have you worked here? One year. Describe your culinary background Modern English with a classic French twist. Tell us about your approach to food Fresh and local quality raw ingredients. I’ve spent a lot of time over the last year training up young chefs to build on our talent base. Who’s your food hero? Alfred Portale from Gotham Bar and Grill in New York City – a pioneering American chef who blew my mind and hooked me on the importance of presentation. What’s your signature dish? Pork belly and sticky toffee pudding – need I say more! What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in the coming year? I think foodies will continue to try something new and local and Kent has great things to offer. Our specials are continually changing, so I’m sure we’ll have a few unusual offerings in 2015.

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How has your menu evolved? The classic dishes remain firm favourites, but we continue to evolve with the seasons, using the best of what our little part of Kent has to offer: asparagus from Ladysden Farm in the spring, lamb and beef from Spratsbourne Farm and game from Taywell Game. There’s something new every season.

Tell us about your favourite food discovery of 2014 We continue to be surprised by what our local producers and craftsmen provide us with, whether it’s helping us make our great black pudding, apple ice cream or fruit juice for daquiris.

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES Sticky toffee pudding Makes 1 x 1/1 gastronorm tray - Divide by three to make 10 to 12 darioles INGREDIENTS FOR PUDDING 24oz pitted dates,chopped 3 tsp bicarbonate of soda 30 fl oz water 18oz butter, softened 18oz dark, soft brown sugar 3 eggs 24oz self-raising flour BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 100g butter 100g dark, soft brown sugar 500ml double cream

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DIRECTIONS FOR PUDDING 1) Bring the dates, water and bicarbonate of soda to the boil, remove from the heat and leave to sit 2) Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy 3) Beat in the eggs one at a time until combined, then gently mix in the flour ) Bring the dates back to the boil and then pour into the 4 egg, flour and sugar mix, stirring immediately and mix until it turns into a thick batter 5) Pour into a tray lined with parchment and bake at 160°C for 40 minutes DIRECTIONS FOR SAUCE 1) Place all the ingredients in a pan and simmer until it coats the back of a spoon, then cut the pudding, pour on the sauce and serve with custard or ice cream – simple, traditional and delicious!

Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations over the last year? Diners are loving our sharing boards, be it meat, fish or vegetarian and our Scotch eggs continue to be a winner. Customers expect quality food at a good price and we strive to deliver this, from our kids’ meals and Sunday roasts to our bar snacks and sharing platters. What’s new for your diners? Our menus will continue to evolve and our plan is to build the links with Hush Heath; having more wine-led dinners within a specific area of the restaurant (soon to be expanded and re-modelled), where you can have a similar experience to food offerings at the great French vineyards. We also have plans to extend the terrace area with pizza all year round and barbecues for the long, hot summers (we can always dream!). Can you give a food trend prediction for 2015? Fads and fashions will come and go, but enduring classic food will remain the cornerstone and foundation that the food industry will be built on for a long time to come. We’re in the Garden of England and we embrace all things local.

01/12/2014 16:33

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

This place has star quality There are tens of thousands of restaurants in the UK, but only 162 have earned one or more prestigious Michelin stars. The Curlew in Bodiam is the only starred restaurant in East Sussex. Erik Brown went along to find out what makes this eatery one of the elite

hefs are just amazing, aren’t they? There’s this photo I have of Andrew Scott, Head Chef of The Curlew and in it, he’s smiling, his blue eyes are clear and the only lines on his face are laughter lines, those little crow’s feet at the sides of the eyes. The photograph was taken within minutes of him telling me that he’d just worked 13 days of cripplingly long shifts and that one of his commis chefs had “disappeared into thin air” because a relative was sick. “It’s been hard work,” he had said. And he looked as fresh as a man just back from a three-week spa holiday. I guess it’s the love of the job that does it. There’s a favourite question I like to ask chefs: “What are you working on?” It seems so simple that it’s almost banal, but if the chef is any good, you can relax, sit back and listen. And Andrew Scott is very good indeed.

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“I’m trying to do a baked Alaska,” he says. “I want to make it fashionable again. Or Arctic roll. That’s what I’m working on. For two people to share.” Then he’s off, speaking with passion and clarity for about five minutes straight. The conversation is suddenly strewn with strawberry bombes, melon pressed with different alcohols, “posh” chicken, mascapone cream with black pepper sugar and a lobster cocktail in a martini glass with an espuma of Marie Rose. One thing is clear: the affable and talented Andrew Scott has found a natural home at The Curlew and he’s obviously loving every minute of it. Developed by Mark and Sara Colley – a former City broker and a research analyst – The Curlew has only been open in its current form for four years and Andrew and his sous chef Neil Bennett have been there for just 10 months. But for those in the know (and happily, I am one of them), it is already an institution. It is, in fact, the only place where the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it again for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it kind of works at both ends of the meal). The Colleys got to know Michelin-starred chef Graham Garrett of The West House,

Biddenden, when they were running their first hotel/ restaurant, The George at Cranbrook and they invited him in as consultant to help launch chef Neil McCue to position The Curlew. The restaurant picked up a Michelin star in the summer of 2011 and after two and a half years, Garrett told them, “You don’t need me anymore” and moved on. McCue followed him last year and Scott came in from Michelin-starred Mallory Court outside Leamington Spa, bringing his sous chef with him. Scott had previously worked with Simon Rogan at L’Enclume Cumbria and at Lords of the Manor in Upper Slaughter, Gloucestershire. So, he had previous, as the catering industry likes to say. “My background is classical,” Scott says. “But I do like to present things in a modern way, not chintzy old school. So I keep to the seasons and I try to use as much local produce as possible.” What that means is that his dry goods supplier is just up the road at Hawkhurst, his fish come from Rye (he gets to pick the best as the supplier passes on his way to Billingsgate fish market), he uses a local

01/12/2014 16:31

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

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The potted crab with fennel cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit (£9.50).

butcher who can get him “anything” and a veg man so committed to the cause that he’s growing Scott some coriander plants, just for the flowers; coriander is usually harvested before the flowers develop. Even the wine list has a local flavour, with sparkling wine from Appledore in Kent and Bluebell Estates in East Sussex and the first ever English bio-dynamic wine, from the Sedlescombe vineyard just five miles away. Mark and Sara are clearly enthusiastic about Scott’s cooking: “I’ve never worked with such an energetic and talented group of people,” Mark says. But they’re quite modest about the Michelin star. Glad to have it, of course, but it’s “not what defines us”, Mark says. “It’s a family business,” he adds, “serving the local community.” If it has also become a destination restaurant, great – the Colleys are really proud of that. But they like to keep their feet on the ground too.

It’s the only place where the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it again for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it kind of works at both ends of the meal) So, to the food. I have a starter of perfectlycooked mackerel with pressed cucumber (the cucumber-iest I’ve ever tasted, in fact), smoked mackerel parfait, oyster and – what was that? – oh yes, the faintest hint of wasabi (£9). Now, that by itself is an impressive stunt. Wasabi doesn’t usually hint at anything; it just hits you somewhere in the respiratory tract. This is subtle stuff. My wife orders the potted crab with fennel cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit (£9.50). Not given to emotional outbursts, she nevertheless whispers an audible “oh” when she tastes the pickled mooli and ginger. Then for me, the pork fillet and belly with caramelised onion, walnut and rosemary gnocchi (£20.50) with tiny, upright cylinders of something sharp and green – ah yes, local apple – providing

acidity to offset the fatty pork belly and crispy crackling. Beautifully done. My wife goes for the Sussex lamb with cardamom, yoghurt and saag aloo purée (£21). The lamb, she says, is tender and delicious and the cardamom yoghurt refreshing and tasty. She struggles a little with the saag aloo purée – not really her thing. So, I taste it and like it a lot; it has a kind of earthiness, an umami flavour, that complements the meat perfectly. Then not one, but two desserts: the one I order (off the “short menu” – £20 for two courses, £25 for three), olive oil cake with mascarpone mousse and lemon sorbet, and the one Scott wanted me to have, mango macaroon with mascarpone, compressed mango, pineapple and Szechuan pepper sorbet (£8.50). The first is excellent, with a lovely light, lemony sponge and a sharp sorbet. The second is a standout dish, with the pineapple and pepper sorbet cutting through the sweetness of the macaroon and pressed mango. Stunning. Mrs B agrees – then tucks into a delicious cheesecake of white chocolate, poached cherries and pistachio ice cream (£8.50). Oh, and I indulge in a glass of the Sedlescombe First Release East Sussex 2011 (£8), so bright and fresh and fruity that after lunch I drive to the estate and buy three bottles from the woman whose husband made it. Don’t you just love this part of the world? The Curlew is half an hour from Tunbridge Wells and the only Michelin-starred restaurant in East Sussex. The Curlew, Junction Road, Bodiam, East Sussex, TN32 5UY 01580 861 394 www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE LITTLE BROWN JUG - CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY CUISINE: British ADDRESS: Chiddingstone Causeway,

MEET THE CHEF Steven Ednie, Chef

Tonbridge, Kent TN11 8JJ TEL: 01892 870 318

How long have you worked here?

WEB: www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk

I’ve worked for Whiting & Hammond for over five years but

NAME: Chef Steven Ednie

I’ve been at the current site for two months. Describe your culinary background I took a two-year Btech National Diploma in hospitality and catering, and a three-year HND in culinary arts management at Birmingham University. I’ve worked as a chef in hotels, banqueting, pubs and restaurants. Tell us about your approach to food I use fresh ingredients from local suppliers of the highest quality, to deliver the best food possible to the consumer. Who’s your food hero? Gordon Ramsay, prior to his television corruption. What’s your signature dish? Braised lamb breast served with dauphinoise potatoes, red cabbage and apple, pea puree and red wine reduction. What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015? If anyone gets the chance, they should try pineberries. These are like strawberries but are white and they taste of pineapple.

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01/12/2014 16:25

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NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES Rolled braised minted lamb breast Serves 4 DIRECTIONS

INGREDIENTS 1 large lamb breast 300g minced lamb 2tbs mint sauce Seasoning 100g butter 4 sprigs of rosemary BRAISING STOCK 1 onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 1 leek, chopped 1 head of celery, chopped Bulb of garlic, crushed 300g tomato puree 2 litres beef stock SAUCE REDUCTION 1 bottle of red wine Small handful of fresh mint leaves

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1) In a bowl mix together the mint sauce and minced lamb meat, and season. 2) Place the lamb breast, skin side down, onto a chopping board. Along the centre of the lamb, in a sausage shape running from left to right, place the minced lamb mix, leaving enough space either side so that the breast will roll later without being overfilled. 3) Start to roll the breast from top to bottom in a long cylinder shape and tie together with butcher’s string, repeating along the breast until tied securely.

Tip: Do not over tighten the string, so as to force filling out. 4) Season the outside and place in an oiled hot pan. Add the butter and rosemary and colour each side of the lamb.

5.) Once the breast is nicely coloured, put to one side until the braising stock is ready. 6) To make the stock put all the ingredients (except for the beef stock) into a large roasting tray and cooking over a medium heat for eight to 10 minutes. 7) Place the lamb breast into the roasting tray on top of the vegetables and cover with the beef stock. Seal tightly with tin foil. Carefully place into a pre heated oven at 190 for 3 – 4 hours until lamb is soft to the touch. 8) Remove from the oven once ready and leave to cool. 9) When the lamb is at handling temperature remove the string and place onto a large piece of cling film and tightly roll, sealing at both ends. 10) Place in the fridge until set. 11) Strain the braising stock, then

place in the fridge until fat on top has set and can be removed. Tip: The method this far can be made in advance and left in the fridge over night. 12) Pour the bottle of red wine and mint leaves into a pan and heat on high, reducing the liquid by two thirds. 13) Add the lamb stock to the red wine reduction and reduce further until thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Strain the sauce. 14) Pre heat oven to 190C. 15) Portion the lamb into four whilst still in the cling film and place upright in a lined baking tray. Heat in the oven for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, remove cling film and serve with the sauce. 16) Serve with potatoes and vegetables of your choice.

01/12/2014 16:26

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

The Camden Arms - pembury CUISINE: Traditional with international influences ADDRESS: 1 High Street, Pembury, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 4PH TEL: 01892 822 012 WEB: www.camdenarms.co.uk NAME: Manager James Cunningham

Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to food We have always offered quality food but now we are really striving to use as much local produce as possible in our dishes, not only to support our local community and economy but because Kent has some of the best produce on offer. Everything is prepared fresh and is the result of inspiration and product availability - not process, so the menu changes frequently depending on what has been grown, picked or delivered that day. We have promoted local produce here at the Camden Arms and we already utilise a lot of Kent’s best items and we will be adding much more to our new menus in 2015. How and when did you get involved in this place? We – James and Carol Cunningham – have been proprietors at the Camden Arms for over 12 years and have been in the catering industry over 40 years. Located in the centre of the village of Pembury, the Camden Arms was a challenge when we first took it over but building its reputation

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has been very rewarding. With the addition of a 15-room accommodation wing five years ago, this 17th century coaching inn could again call itself “The Camden Arms Hotel”. The hotel brings guests from all over the world and we have added a few continental dishes to our menu in appreciation of our short staying guests. Today James and Carol are very much at ‘the helm’ but we’re proud that it is a family run business, with true family values. Describe the type of dishes on your menu Simple, stylish dining. Our restaurant offers a variety of dishes to complement Kentish produce. We pride ourselves on creating excellent food using fresh local ingredients. In the summer months, you can enjoy dining al fresco on our sun terrace. Our menu is available daily between noon and 9pm and offers simplistic dining in a casual atmosphere and on Sunday, we offer a three-meat carvery. No problem whether you are gluten free, vegan or

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vegetarian, just let us know when making your room or table reservation, as nothing is too much trouble for Chef and his team. What are your ‘must taste’ dishes? The Camden Arms’ bestseller is the Sunday carvery – at under £11 it’s a good reason not to cook a Sunday roast! But our ‘must taste’ dishes have to include the Sizzling Fajitas, served with either beef or chicken; the smell as they are brought sizzling to the table is only the prelude to the effect on the taste buds! We are also proud of our homemade puddings and pies, deeply filled and cooked to order. What sets your place apart from the others? A good menu, fresh produce and good service are words used by everyone in this publication and whilst very important, they are prerequisites for any successful restaurant. What sets us apart is our whole business ethos: Innovation – the desire to present local meat, vegetables and fruit ingredients in new and exciting ways; Quality – every product we make is made to the highest quality and standard of presentation; Sustainability – our food is locally sourced wherever possible, from ethical and likeminded suppliers; Relationships – we strive to build good relationships with our customers, colleagues and suppliers; Enjoy – we simply love food. We want you to enjoy your experience with us at The Camden Arms Hotel. Can you describe your restaurant in five words? No, just one – great!

WHAT’S COOKING in 2015

We are always experimenting with new ingredients, to produce different taste experiences with classic pub food. Our menu changes monthly to ensure we’re the first to offer fresh local produce as and when it is picked or harvested, together with other ingredients sourced from as far away as France. (Yes, we really do go monthly to French markets.) We are going back to basics, enhancing and improving our classic pub dishes, with an emphasis on ‘fresh and seasonal produce’. Returning for the winter months will be our homemade pies and puddings, with six different fillings, homemade soup and flavours changing daily. As spring approaches, locally reared lamb will be on the menu in various mouth-watering dishes. Our local fish supplier will ensure we have the prize of the catch, all sourced from the waters of the South Coast. Summer will see a variety of colourful salads on the menu including a crab and avocado and a superb salad Nicoise. These will be on the menu alongside our customers’ favourites, such as the rack of ribs, with smoked Mississippi or spicy chilli sauce and our home ground steak burgers. What changed last year was the installation of a hot and cold smoker, which we envisage using to develop our menu this year with more home smoked products. We intend to install a wood burning grill in the next year and develop more grilled dishes, which we believe is in line with market trends – local food at good prices.

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GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE KINGS HEAD - SEVENOAKS CUISINE: British ADDRESS: Westerham Road, Bessels Green, Sevenoaks, Kent TN13 2QA TEL: 01732 452 081 WEB: www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk NAME: Head Chef Jonny Gain

MEET THE CHEF Jonny Gain

How long have you worked here? I’ve been here since the pub opened in March 2014. Describe your culinary background I had only a few years’ experience as a chef before joining Whiting & Hammond in 2006, so I’ve learned pretty much all of my knowledge through the chefs I’ve worked with in the company. I first joined the group at The Plough, working under

“I think everyone should try brawn. It’s all the meat from a pig’s head, plus jelly, which is then pressed into a mould”

Colin Gilbert, and have moved around different sites since then. Who’s your food hero? It would have to be Keith Floyd. I loved his passion for flavours and classic cooking techniques. What’s your signature dish? I wouldn’t say I have one, but I love making classic British winter dishes. You can’t beat a nice suet pudding. What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015? I think everyone should try brawn. It’s basically all the meat from a pig’s head, plus jelly, which is then pressed into a mould – delicious!

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01/12/2014 16:28

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NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES Braised oxtail ravioli in tomato pasta, salt beef and fire roasted red pepper ragù, carrot crisps

Serves 4 “This dish is packed with intense flavours. The ravioli itself is the classic beef and tomato combination, which works amazingly well with the sweet and salty ragù, while the salt beef adds lovely texture and gives it a great meaty flavour. We garnish the dish with basil and carrot crisps for a nice crunch – it has proved very popular on our menu when the sun comes out to play!”

Preparation time: 2 hours Cooking time: 2-3 hours Note: This recipe requires the pasta to be placed in the fridge for 1 hour before cooking INGREDIENTS FOR THE FILLING 1.5kg braised oxtail 2 carrots, 4 stalks of celery 1 Spanish onion 1 bay leaf 1.5 litres beef stock FOR THE PASTA 250g type 00 flour 8 large egg yolks 1 tsp tomato purée 1 tsp basil oil

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FOR THE RAGÙ 2 shallots 4 cloves of garlic 300g salt beef 500g chopped tomatoes 2 red peppers 400ml oxtail stock Half a bunch of basil 2 tsp butter FOR THE CARROT CRISPS 2 carrots

DIRECTIONS FOR THE FILLING 1) Dice the carrots, celery and onion into 5mm cubes 2) Braise the oxtail slowly with the carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf and beef stock until you can just pull it from the bone. Reserve the cooking liquor and strain FOR THE PASTA 1) Add all the ingredients into a food mixer with a dough hook attached and mix until smooth and elastic. Leave in the fridge for an hour before using 2) Cut the pasta in half. Feed each half through a pasta machine (setting 0, or as thin as possible) so that you are left with two long strips (you will have to work quickly here to stop the pasta drying out, so organisation is key) 3) On one strip place 250 to 300g portions of the oxtail at spaced intervals and brush around the portions with egg wash. Lay the other strip of pasta over the top

and use a pastry cutting ring to cut out your raviolis. These will need to be cooked in rapid boiling salted water for four to five minutes FOR THE RAGÙ 1) Roast the peppers over an open flame until the skins turn black, then remove 2) Sweat down the shallots and the garlic for two to three minutes, then turn up the heat and add the salt beef. Fry for two minutes, stirring continuously, then add the chopped tomatoes, sliced roasted peppers and oxtail stock and reduce until a thick ragù consistency is achieved 3) Add the torn basil just before you serve and finish with the butter to give the sauce a velvety finish FOR THE CARROT CRISPS 1) Peel the carrots and use the peeler to slice long, thin strips. Cut these in half lengthways and fry at 140°C until crispy Serve and enjoy!

01/12/2014 16:29

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE MARK CROSS INN - NR TUNBRIDGE WELLS CUISINE: British ADDRESS: Mark Cross, Nr Tunbridge Wells, Crowborough, East Sussex TN6 3NP

MEET THE CHEF Ed Molesworth

TEL: 01892 852 423

How long have you worked here?

What’s your signature dish?

WEB: www.themarkcross.co.uk

I’ve been working for Whiting & Hammond as a

I don’t have one. I have a lot of dishes I like and,

NAME: Head Chef Ed Molesworth

sous chef since we opened The Kings Head in

depending on the time of year, I bring out an old or

Sevenoaks back in April. I took over at The Mark

new trusted favourite. I’m particularly fond of

Cross Inn as Head Chef at the beginning of October.

cooking game, especially with it being so plentiful in the area. I also love Indian cuisine.

Describe your culinary background I’ve done many things in my life, all of which have

What’s the one dish

revolved around this industry. I’ve travelled and love

or delicacy people

cooking Oriental foods and utilising spices and

should try in 2015?

techniques I’ve picked up from India, China and other

Venison – it’s great

parts of South East Asia. I’ve run my own pub and

value, has great flavour

hotel in the past, but I wanted to get back into the

and is very versatile.

kitchen full time, which is where my passion lies. Tell us about your approach to food It should be natural; you see something and you want to cook it. I never have a shopping list – I go to a market and, if I like the look of something, I then build my dish or menu around that. Who’s your food hero? Mrs Beaton.

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01/12/2014 16:24

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SPONSORED BY

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES Pheasant liver parfait Serves 4 INGREDIENTS FOR THE PARFAIT 600ml port 5 sprigs fresh thyme 500g pheasant livers, trimmed of sinew 4 juniper berries 4 egg yolks 2 eggs 500g clarified butter, melted and still warm 3/4 tbsp sea salt (half the amount if using regular salt) 1/4 tsp fresh, finely ground black pepper CALVADOS APPLE JELLY 100ml cider vinegar 250ml clear apple juice (reduced from 1 litre) 1/4 recipe pheasant consommé (250ml) 3 gelatine leaves 1 tbsp calvados

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DIRECTIONS FOR THE PARFAIT 1) Preheat the oven to 125°C. Pour the port into a saucepan and add the thyme. Place on a high heat and boil to reduce the port to 100ml. Strain off the thyme from the thickened port 2) Place the cleaned livers in a blender with the reduced port and juniper berries. With the motor running, add the yolks, eggs and warm clarified butter. Season with the sea salt and black pepper. Pass this mix through a fine sieve, discarding any lumps 3) Line a standard loaf tin or individual Kilner jars with plastic wrap, leaving plenty overhanging. Fill with the liver mix 4) Place the tin in the centre of a deep oven dish and carefully pour in hot water to three quarters of the way up the sides of the tin. Cover the lot tightly with tinfoil and place in the oven. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, then peel back the foil and check the parfait 5) It’s cooked when it’s just set, but still a little nervous in the centre. If not ready, cover again tightly and return to the oven, checking every five to 10 minutes until done. Remove and leave to cool on a rack for one hour, then refrigerate until required (at least six hours or overnight) DIRECTIONS FOR THE APPLE JELLY 1) Place the vinegar in a saucepan and boil to reduce to around one tablespoon. Add the apple juice and boil again to reduce to 250ml (1 cup) 2) Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for one minute, then remove and add to the hot, reduced apple juice. Stir until combined, then add the calvados. Pour onto the set parfait and allow to set.

01/12/2014 16:24

y an’t

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

THE CHASER INN - SHIPBOURNE CUISINE: British ADDRESS: Stumble Hill, Shipbourne, Tonbridge, Kent TN11 9PE

MEET THE CHEF Simon Brazier

TEL: 01732 810 360 WEB: www.thechaser.co.uk

How long have you worked here?

kitchens. Plus, I almost swear as much as he

NAME: Head Chef Daniel Curtis

One year and three months.

does!

Describe your culinary background

What’s your signature dish?

I started cooking back when I was 15; I was doing

I’ve never really had a signature dish as such,

an apprenticeship in a pub and going to college one

but something I do like is game. A dish that

day a week. I then moved on to hotels and

I’ve cooked quite a few times is confit duck leg

eventually went back into gastro-style pubs, always

with creamy mashed potatoes, red wine sauce

working with fresh food. I had my first head chef

and crispy seaweed.

position when I was 29. What’s the one dish or delicacy people Tell us about your approach to food

should try in 2015?

It’s always been the same – fresh, local and

Everyone should try oysters. Not being a great

seasonal. I try to keep my food simple, not trying to

lover of fish, I tried them myself for the first

overcomplicate it and letting the produce speak for

time recently and they have a simplicity about

itself. There’s nothing worse than eating a dish that

them that goes along with my own style of

has so many flavours going on that you can’t tell

food – nice and simple. Did I like them? Let’s

one from the other.

just say they’re not for me, but that doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy them. Put a little

SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser Inn.indd 182

Who’s your food hero?

Mignonette (shallots and white wine vinegar)

It has to be Gordon Ramsay. I just love his style of

on them and a squeeze of lemon to help bring

cooking and the presence he brings into his

out the flavour.

“Food is a

01/12/2014 16:34

GOOD GRUB GUIDE

SPONSORED BY

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES “I enjoy nothing more than a rich casserole or stew made with the cheaper cuts of meat that you can

Slow braised ox cheek ragù Serves 4 DIRECTIONS 1) In a large ceramic dish, seal off the ox cheek in a little oil. Once sealed, remove from the pan and place to one side

slow braise and then reduce the liquor to a rich, dark, full-on sauce. This is a perfect example of what can be done to a cheap cut to make it

Preparation time: 15 minutes

amazing in taste and feed a family for

Cooking time: 3 to 4 hours for the ox cheek, 1 hour for the rest of the dish

very little cost. It’s best enjoyed on a cold, rainy day after a walk to the pub, drying off in front of the fire and sipping on a quality Barossa Shiraz.”

INGREDIENTS 1 ox cheek 1 onion, chopped 2 carrots, roughly chopped 2 sticks celery, roughly chopped 1 bottle red wine 2 tins chopped tomatoes (home size) 2 bay leaves Salt and pepper to taste 6 large potatoes 1 pack butter Cream to taste 4 large parsnips Honey 1 bag ready prepped kale

“Food SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser is a science Inn.indd

183

2) Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook until just softening. De-glaze the dish with the bottle of wine and add the chopped tomatoes and bay leaves. Bring to the boil and add the ox cheek back to the pan. Cover and place in a low oven at 140°C for three to four hours until tender and falling apart 3) Once cooked, remove the ox cheek and place the liquor onto the stove to reduce down to a sauce consistency. Shred the ox cheek and add back to the sauce. Remove the bay leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste 4) For the mash, boil the potatoes for 22 to 30 minutes until soft, then strain, add the butter and mash or put through a ricer. Add cream, salt and pepper to taste 5) Blanch the parsnips for five minutes in boiling water, then transfer to a hot oven dish with oil, drizzle with a little honey and roast for 20 minutes in a hot oven until golden-brown with a little crisp 6) Cook the kale straight from the bag in a pan with a few knobs of butter and sauté until bright in colour and starting to go crispy. Serve the mash, kale and parsnips next to a good sized portion of the ox cheek ragù

01/12/2014 16:35

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