vancity Pretty KEndra Hagerman on First-Rate Dressing in Second-Hand Clothes
RECYCLE
april 2013
+ Interviews With D.W Fashion The Lyf special kay beats
“It’s not where you take things from — - Jean-Luc Godard
it’s where you take them to.”
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| Editor’s Letter
Putting together this issue was as educating as it was fun, we learned about the history of our local vintage shops and the dedication it takes to reworking fabrics and materials into something new. We found a deep admiration for everyone featured this month, including our editors who stepped in front of the cameras to recreate their favourite photos. We adored taking the classic imagery and giving it life with ‘A Modern Touch,’ (p.27).
For our third issue, we shift our focus to making the old new again. There’s something absolutely intoxicating about recreating moments of wonder. Whether it’s wearing a vintage Chanel bag that you found at a local thrift store or singing your favourite classic at your local karaoke bar; finding that connection to our past is a feat in it’s own right. It’s important to understand your past and where things come from and to appreciate those who sustain that culture amongst the digital age. My absolute favourite past time is collecting records on vinyl and laying around on a lazy evening, listening to the raw scratches and hisses intertwined with songs from the likes of Billy Joel, Etta James, and Nat King Cole. Taylor McLean, better known as Special Kay Beats (p. 51), shares the same passion. It’s also the same kind of thrill our cover girl, Kendra, of Vancity Pretty, gets when thrifting; learn Hagerman’s secret ways by reading her story (p.41).
I encourage you to explore the city and peruse through your local antique shops; this city is filled with treasures—you just have to hunt. This doesn’t only apply to inanimate objects—but to experiences as well. There’s a beautiful quote from Jim Jarmusch that explains the essence of our issue: “Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; originality is non-existent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery—celebrate it if you feel like it. “
Ghazal Elhaei Editor in Chief
contents interview
d.w fashion
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interview
the lyf
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interview
vintage picks
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a modern touch
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cover story
vancity pretty
six best eco brands
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diy beauty interview
special kay beats
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six cover stars you need to know record shop plugged in
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masthead editor-in-chief
| ghazal elhaei
executive assistant
| diba taghvai
creative director
| marchel eang
fashion director
| frances thomas
beauty director video director
| alex ross
photo director photo editor
| kaycee camaclang
| carlieann terry
| reema ismail
photography contributors jason blais, nicholas eastman directions photography, patrick mceachern, reema ismail, alex ross
contributors monica pankiewicz
one 1 one online
tune into something new
Raw — Uncensored — Unplugged
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| Fashion
D.w fashion on Chance, Vision, and Not Giving a F*ck Photography/ Jason Blais, Nicholas Eastman Directions Photography, & Patrick McEachern Model/ Frankie Torng Text/ Frances Thomas D.W. is turning the Canadian fashion scene upside down. Throw away your previous ideas on what artfully weird looks like — designer D.W has a new thing coming for you. Self-taught and outwardly irreverent, Calgary-based W’s milieu is taking old materials most would throw in the trash and repurposing them into wearable art forms. He finds the beauty in the hideous, and the life in the dead, all the while proving that
eco fashion is about more than hemp-based yoga pants and patchwork wrap dresses. D.W’s 2010 genesis — and the unexpected frenzy that ensued — has kept White busy designing for musical talent, fashion shows, and Pride Calgary, to name a few of his multiple projects. We took a moment with him to hit “pause” and reflect on where he’s been, where he is, and where he’s going.
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don't design seasonally ❝Ilike most designers — I’m a conceptual designer.❞
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Did you always plan on being a fashion designer? No, actually. Fashion kind of just fell into my lap.
How and when did you get into designing? It started about 3 years ago. I was looking for a Peter Pan costume for Halloween last minute and it seemed they were all sold out, so I decided I was going to make one. I bought a used sewing machine off kijiji and taught myself how to use it with no prior knowledge. My friends used to have a lot of theme parties, and since I had a sewing machine I started making costumes for myself and friends instead of buying storebought. It was easier to achieve my vision. I also made a denim jacket to wear to a Lady Gaga concert and it ended up being recognized in a local newspaper, and going viral on Facebook. There were people messaging me asking to see more designs, so I decided to try my hand at designing a small capsule collection, and it's all history from there!
What is your favourite part of your job? My favourite part I would say is taking a garment that is already in existence and stripping it down, cutting it apart and completely reinventing it into something new and truly original.
What’s your design process like? I find myself more inspired late at night, and usually don't listen to music or have any other distractions. Something about the silence is inspiring. I don't design seasonally like most designers — I’m a conceptual designer. When I think of a concept and get inspired by it, I then begin designing whatever comes to mind to really flesh out the ideas, no holds barred. I can't leak any details yet for the new collection, but it will be to die for.
Do you have any upcoming shows? I'm currently working on a TOP SECRET project, but you'll find out soon enough in the obituaries (that's all I can say right now). What's your number one piece of style advice? Dress for yourself, and don't give a f--about what other people will say about you.
Who are your favourite designers? Actually, I don't really follow much in the fashion industry. I try to find other sources of inspiration. The only two labels I really pay attention to are Mugler and Alexander McQueen. I think some of their inspirations are visible in my designs and concepts.
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Who is the quintessential D.W customer? Do you design with a certain type of person in mind? I'd say I design for myself first. If I don't like it, I'm not going to make it just because someone else likes it. But when it comes down to it, I seem to have a liking for designing for people in the music industry. I've been creating stage show looks for local Vancouver pop star Peter Breeze (www.peterbreeze.com) for the last two years. I'd love to see my stuff on some more names on stage as well.
Where do you want to take D.W in the future? I really want to open a popup shop in the near future. Every couple of months I would re-open the D.W popup with other artists across a wide spectrum. It would be a really conceptual space, anywhere from a nightclub, to a coffee shop, to an architectural firm, reinvigorating life into forgotten spaces and deserted storefronts, always popping up in forgotten places all over the city.
www.dwfashion.ca www.facebook.com/D.W.fashion.ca www.twitter.com/darylswhite
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THE LYF loving the lyf Photography/ reema ismail Text/ghazal elhaei
There’s a new brand in town: The LYF provides a fresh perspective on the oldies-but-goodies that you may be accustomed to. What Kristina Derrick and Keith Miller—the duo behind the rising brand—are trying to capture is the essence of that confident art kid you wish you knew in high school. It takes serious craftsmanship to be able to pull of credibility in this industry, but these two are already getting mentions from the likes of British Vogue and are quickly rising to becoming one of the most coveted brands out of Vancouver.
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C o m i n g t o LY F Kristina: It happened during the summer. We were making acid wash denim shirts for ourselves and I took a picture of them hanging on the clothesline outside of our apartment and then posted it to Instagram. Within a couple of minutes, my friends were asking me where they could buy one for themselves. It just happened instantly.
W h e r e d o yo u g o t o f i n d yo u r p i ec e s ? Keith: Anywhere. Kristina: Everywhere.
Redesign
Keith: We don't really rework any of our clothing. We had done a couple of denim pieces for fun but what we're interested in is giving vintage clothing a new life.
T h e ASOS marketpl ace: a collective online fa s h i o n c o m m u n i t y
Kristina: Instead of adding to the clutter and the mess of the fashion industry, we strive to give forgotten, beautiful pieces a new home in someone's closet, somewhere that they're respected as they should be.
Keith: It felt like an instant fit.
The source Kristina: No, we never [found sourcing to be a challenge]. I've been doing this for myself my entire life. I'm just so lucky that recently I've found a way to help other people do it too. Keith: Oftentimes, the pieces we find are what naturally guide the evolution of the collection. Kristina: Sometimes I feel like it's there waiting; we go with a thought in our mind and every time we've gone out we've found something that fits within the aesthetic. It's like magic.
Kristina: It changed our lives. We found our tribe in the UK. It was like they instantly accepted who we are. We have a mutual understanding with that market and it's working well. I want everything to be based on that market. I don't think in our time zone. I wake up in the middle of the night to check emails because that's likely when they're coming in.
It changed our ❝lives. We found
our tribe in the UK. It was like they instantly accepted who we are.
❞
Keith: It feels so nice to part of the ASOS Marketplace culture because it's really like a community. It's so far away from us but we're a part of it: we want to be present and we want to connect with these people.
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Looking into the future Keith: We actually had our own website at one point. First we had a shop on ETSY for a short period, then we had our first international sale on [Big Cartel]. A girl from Australia bought a jacket, t-shirt, a denim shirt and a hat. We started stepping up our game; we started developing our social media platforms and built a website. At the same time, we discovered ASOS Marketplace and prepared our boutique and shot our product. It got hectic but once we were up and running on ASOS Marketplace, we didn't really see a need to keep running the website, since all of our content was either on ASOS or Facebook.
Original sin Kristina: [Original designs are] in discussion. Right now, actually. Keith: We're keeping it hush for now. It's just beginning to happen.
C o l l a b o r at i o n Kristina: It would definitely have to be a good balance. The designer couldn't be too creative because I'm 100 per cent creative and zero per cent technical. So the person that we work with would have to be very technical. Â
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Inspired logo Kristina: [The logo of an eye] was originally a happy face. I wanted it to be something recognizably 90's-inspired and I was trying to find a graphic designer who I could work with. I find it's really difficult to work with graphic designers because I always think that nothing is impossible. But you have to put a limit on it sometimes. I randomly met a girl named Marie-Helene Goulet and she was so interesting; I was so intrigued, we instantly became friends. Then she told me that she was a graphic designer and I was really excited. We started working together and we were working on fixing the logo from the happy face that I wasn't so happy with. I was sitting on Granville on a bench and I was texting her, just talking it out and we came up with a really cool logo. She's awesome, a really talented person and I appreciate everything she does.
Conflict of interest? Keith: It's not any more or less challenging because of the fact that we're a couple. Kristina: We haven't really had any detours or barriers. Honestly, we don't even fight as a couple.
Describe each other i n t h r e e w o r d s . Keith: She's too cool. Kristina: Baked, nice, handsome.
Keep on truckin’
If any celebrity could b e s e e n w e a r i n g yo u r pieces, who would yo u l i k e t o s e e ?
Kristina: I don't have to be motivated any extra to do work. I'd still be working on the LYF if I was dead on the floor.
Kristina: Lindsay Lohan. Drunk.
New Year’s Resolutions Kristina: To hopefully get into a routine. I want to have The LYF become something that just functions on its own. Keith: It would feel really great to see all of our hard work paying off. It'd be cool to have some original LYF pieces. The first thing we've done like that is our third eye toques and a lot of really cool people are wearing them.
Keith: If it wasn't something either of us really loved doing, we just wouldn't do it. We don't do things that we don't want to do, so if you aren't motivated in the first place you may as well not do it.
Learning curve Kristina: I guess these are the lessons I've learned: I realized that life is not fair, for any reason, the world does not owe me anything. Haters gonna hate. Keith: When we first started the LYF, we went into it with absolutely no expectations. All of the opportunities we've had in the past year and the great response the brand has gotten really make us feel like we're on the right track by continuing to do what is natural to us.
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Keep on truckin’ Kristina: I don't have to be motivated any extra to do work. I'd still be working on the LYF if I was dead on the Keith: If it wasn't something either of us really loved doing, we just wouldn't do it. We don't do things that we don't want to do, so if you aren't motivated in the first place you may as well not do it.
Keep on truckin’ Kristina: I don't have to be motivated any extra to do work. I'd still be working on the LYF if I was dead on the Keith: If it wasn't something either of us really loved doing, we just wouldn't do it. We don't do things that we don't want to do, so if you aren't motivated in the first place you may as well not do it.
Keep on truckin’ Kristina: I don't have to be motivated any extra to do work. I'd still be working on the LYF if I was dead on the Keith: If it wasn't something either of us really loved doing, we just wouldn't do it. We don't do things that we don't want to do, so if you aren't motivated in the first place you may as well not do it.
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Learning curve
Kristina: I guess these are the lessons I've learned: I realized that life is not fair for any reason, the world does not owe me anything. Haters gonna hate.
Keith: When we first started the LYF, we into it with absolutely no expectations. A the opportunities we've had in the past and the great response the brand has g really make us feel like we're on the righ by continuing to do what is natural to us
Learning curve
Kristina: I guess these are the lessons I've learned: I realized that life is not fair for any reason, the world does not owe me anything. Haters gonna hate.
Keith: When we first started the LYF, we into it with absolutely no expectations. A the opportunities we've had in the past and the great response the brand has g really make us feel like we're on the righ by continuing to do what is natural to us floor.
floor.
floor.
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G r e at e s t e x p e r i e n c e s Keith: Probably one that's still in the future. Kristina: Every morning, every minute of my life thinking about it, is the best experience. I love that the LYF exists.
Va l u e v i n t a g e Kristina: We drool over everything on ASOS and ASOS Marketplace, and our new friends 'The Pokey Hat.' They're a super cute boutique out of the UK.
Brand names Kristina: I don't really shop. Maybe old American Apparel t-shirts with rips and holes in them. Keith: Whenever we're buying clothes, it seems like it's for The LYF.
Style guru Kristina: Somebody who wears what they want to wear and not what they're being told to wear.
B r i n g m e b a c k t o LY F Keith: [We want to be seen] as something new, a fresh perspective on something that already exists, a new way to express yourself, something more resourceful and responsible. It's supposed to be fun too. Kristina: We just have so much fun doing it and we want to give that impression on everybody. We want them to have fun with it too.
W o r d s o f i n s p i r at i o n Kristina: Haters, that's it.
www.asos marketplace/thelyf www.instagram/ilovethelyf
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vintage picks interviews with our six favourite vintage stores in town - The old fashioned way Photography/ Reema Ismail questionnaires/ Diba taghvai Text/ Ghazal Elhaei For the best vintage finds, we have carefully curated a list of our six favorite spots in Vancouver. With a little something for everybody, these locations should be high priority on your list for not only finding hidden gems but meeting incredible people inspired by vintage fashion. And remember, Dior, YSL, and Chanel always win. Always.
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amo der amonto der uch nto uch We look back to the advertisements and images that inspired us to recreate these commercial successes with a modern touch.
Photography/Carlieann Terry Stylist/Caity Rowlands Make Up & Hair/Kaycee Camaclang Model/Katherine Carlson Featuring Some of our editors who stepped in to recreate their favourite images.
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previous page shirt woo vintage - johnny west jeans joe fresh belt h&m shoes model's own original photo linda evangelista photographed by irving penn for gianni versace circa 1991 this page sweater true value vintage jeans democracy necklaces stylist's own opposite page original photo kate moss photographed by herb ritts for calvin klein circa 1992
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opposite page model ghazal elhaei original photo audrey hepburn for funny face , 1957 this page left model caity rowlands original photo cleveland police department, 1970 this page right model carlieann terry original photo reuters/the estate of john vachon/dover publications, inc
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this page model kenneth wyse shirt woo vintage jacket true value vintage jeans topshop opposite page original photo bruce weber for versace
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opposite page model frances thomas this page original photo veronica lake from so proudly we hail!, 1943
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this page peplum top topshop long-sleeved crop top topshop cuff forever 21 jeans democracy
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this page original photo twiggy photographed by bert stern for ysl perfume ad circa 1964
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opposite page dress h&m cuff stylist's own this page original photo donyale luna photographed by guy bourdin for paco rabanne circa 1966
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| On the Cover
first rate dressing in second hand clothes van city pretty’s kendra hagerman shows us around her world of thrift. text/ frances thomas photography/ alex ross
It’s 10 a.m. on a nondescript Sunday morning, and it looks like an apocalypse has hit Vancouver: the streets are empty, the businesses are closed, and the only sound to be heard along the entirety of Victoria Drive is the click of Value Village’s doors being unlocked by a less than eager clerk. Most would cringe at the thought of rolling out of bed to scour through racks upon racks of tightly packed vintage finds, but Kendra Hagerman is not most. “I could spend hours in here,” she announces, oohing and ahhing over a lining here, a button there. “You just don’t
see this kind of detailing anymore,” she points out, picking up a camel-coloured, high-waisted thick wool skirt reminiscent of ’30s fashion with tactful pleating and an attached belt. Hagerman is the fashion blogger and thrifting extraordinaire behind Van City Pretty, a website that serves as a go-to on what to wear, where to go, and who to know for Vancouver’s stylesavvy. “It’s events, it’s fashion, it’s cool things that I find and see,” Hagerman explains. “The fashion industry in Vancouver is smaller, and still growing, and there’s some really cool stuff that people
On the Cover |
should know about.” Van City Pretty is known for its staple “Thrift Store Scores” section and foolproof DIY tips that show those with lowend wallets how to achieve high-end style. Van City Pretty started out as a portfolio of Hagerman’s writing, a place for her to share her musings on style, beauty, and events about-town. The changing landscape of fashion journalism from print-based mediums to online formatting allowed her website to grow into the style and culture destination it is today. She has no shortage
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of plans for the future, divulging that, “I’d like to grow it as big as it possibly can get.” Hagerman welcomes the increasing ease with which anyone can break into the fashion industry: “It’s empowering that anybody can start up their own blog. You don’t need 500 grand.” Her policy is to “share the love” with other online writers and industry hopefuls, instead of treating the burgeoning blogging community with Hunger Games-esque competitiveness. “There’s room for everybody.”
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| On the Cover
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Hagerman’s packed schedule and multiple freelance projects—she writes for Huffington Post Style, Tyra Banks’ Type F, and MTV FORA, to name a few—attest to the Darwinist tenet of “survival of the fittest.” Her self-made career exemplifies how success in today’s job market requires adaptation to the changing mediums of communication and promotion: “When I’m at events and meet great people, I always make sure to follow up with ‘What’s your Twitter handle?’ It’s such a sign of the times.” She even collaborates with virtual friends whom she’s never met in person. “Social media is a necessary evil.” It’s this sincere curiosity about what’s going on—in media, culture, fashion, et al—that comes through in Hagerman’s writing. “I love interviewing people who can teach me something and whom I walk away from going, ‘I want to tell everybody about that.’” She doesn’t just record fashion goings-on, she cares about them: “A lot of people think Vancouver doesn’t really have much of a fashion scene, but we really do. There’s a lot of local talent. Eco fashion is one of the biggest trends —it’s so cool to see what designers can do with an old leather jacket, or fur that was on a vintage coat.”
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Similarly, her love of thrifting downright rejects many of the core principles often associated with fashion: “it can be a very wasteful industry,” she points out. “Maybe I’m over-sentimental, but I think that there’s something special about owning a really nice vintage shirt or dress that lasts.” Vancouver is especially enamoured of thrifting: “We’re really conscious of what we consume, why we’re consuming it, and what’s going to happen after we throw it in the trash,” Hagerman observes. Contrary to popular belief, thrifting is popular for reasons other than Macklemore. “When you donate, you’re contributing to your community. And when you purchase second-hand items, you’re also contributing to your community and to the organizations that sell those items,” Hagerman explains. On top of that, “When you wear a thrifted piece, it’s very unlikely you’ll find anybody else in it.”
A lot of people think ❝really Vancouver doesn’t have much of a
Aside from “Thrift Store Scores,” one of Hagerman’s favourite sections on her website is “Fashion Femme,” in which she features women in the fashion industry whom she’s inspired by. These women are “juggling full-time jobs and freelance writing or starting their own store or website, and I want to help them.” The stereotype of hostile fashion insiders akin to characters from The Devil Wears Prada does not hold true in the fashion world Hagerman pledges allegiance to, where fellow writers and industry hopefuls are seen as inspirational fodder. “The more, the better.”
fashion scene, but we really do. There’s a lot of local talent.
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So how does one strike gold in the treacherous hunt of thrift store shopping? Hagerman’s first tip is to understand the various levels of thrifting. Amateur thrifters should start by going to a consignment store where most of the work is already done, with items sorted through, categorized, and displayed in a user-friendly way. Once they become comfortable with consignment, new thrifters can graduate to full-on thrifting, where it’s not unusual to be digging through boxes of shoes, hats, and mittens with no idea what will be uncovered.
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| On the Cover
“Never go in with something specific in mind, because then you are doomed for failure,” Hagerman warns. “Sometimes you will be at a thrift store for an hour, other times you will be there for three. Sometimes you will find one thing and sometimes you will find 20. You have no idea.” “When you start to take thrifting too seriously, it’s not fun anymore. It becomes a chore,” Hagerman cautions. She pulls a leopard print velour sweatshirt off of a rack to prove her point: “Check that out! I’m not sure I could pull that off.” To Hagerman, thrifting isn’t just a passing trend, an activity that will be labelled passé as soon as “Thrift Shop” stops playing on the radio. It’s not about the cheap prices and hipster bragging rights (though those perks don’t hurt thrifting’s cause) – it’s a labour of love that she’s harboured since her teen years. Growing up, she remembers being “a total pop punk princess. You know, the purple hair – everything. I was working a part-time job for 7 dollars an hour. After I bought a new shirt, I’d sit down and calculate how many hours I had to work for it.” She soon realized that buying second-hand would get her better clothes at cheaper prices – and she was hooked. The purple hair of Hagerman’s teen years has since morphed into a soft caramel, and the 7-dollar an hour job she had has been usurped by a career most girls would kill for. Nonetheless, she can still be found on sunny Saturday afternoons and sleepy Sunday mornings alike hidden among racks of worn leathers, faded wools, and perfectly worn-in jeans. Some things we never grow out of.
www.vancitypretty.com www.facebook.com/vancitypretty www.instagram.com/vancitypretty www.twitter.com/vancitypretty
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| Beauty
Save the Earth Looking Flawless six beauty companies who have their best faces forward text/ kaycee camaclang
When it comes to cosmetics and beauty, most people do not associate it with environmental friendliness. We all know these products exist, but while we're out shopping for them we all too often get blinded by the lights in the displays, bombarded by employees spraying us right and left, and distracted
by the glamorous packaging. Instead of purchasing the ecofriendly products we set out to find, we end up at home with new mascara, lip gloss, and blush - each with their own casing, in plastic, in a box, in more plastic, and then a ribbon to top it off. One third of all landfill waste is consumer product packaging. However
with the new revolution of green living, many beauty companies now promote their eco-friendly packaging and formulas that are not only cruelty free but free of chemicals that may harm you, and our environment. Here are some companies that we believe you can trust to help beautify yourself guilt-free:
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L U S HÂ
T h e B o dy S h o p
Lush started off as a company with little funding for packaging and has stuck with the green approach since then. Still to this day, they sell their products with very little to no packaging and the products that are packaged use 100% recycled product. Not only is their minimalistic approach to packaging green, but they specialize in all natural, vegetarian products. None of their products are tested on animals and they strictly do not outsource ingredients from companies that use animal cruelty.
The Body Shop is a well-known brand known for their natural and ethical approach to beauty, also recognized under the Humane Cosmetics Standard for their Against Animal Testing policy. Every single product they carry is cruelty free and vegetarian. The Body Shop has also started their own fair trade program called Community Trade to better the living conditions of their workers in other countries who harvest the raw goods. www.thebodyshop.ca
www.lush.ca U r b a n D e c ay Urban Decay may not necessarily have a flashy approach to its involvement in the fight for eco-friendliness, but does take part in its own way. All of Urban Decay's products use vegan ingredients and are cruelty free. Their brushes are all made of synthetic fibres meaning no animals are harmed in the making of their products. www.urbandecay.com
b u t t e r L O N D O N With bright, bold nails as a hit for spring/ summer 2013, Butter London brings you all their fabulous colours inspired by the runway. Not only do they take a huge part in Fashion Week, but their products (also including lip-stains, hand and foot care) boast many eco-friendly benefits. Butter London's formulas are free of harmful ingredients and are non-toxic. www.butterlondon.ca
EcoTools
J ui c e B e au t y
What you see is what you get! EcoTools is a company that sells exactly what it's name boasts: Beauty products produced with the environment in mind. EcoTools packaging is easily reusable, all made of post-consumer recycled plastic, and can be recycled again once you're done with it. Their brushes are all cruelty-free and are made of recycled aluminum. Taklon, a delicate synthetic fibre used in artist quality paint and make up brushes, is used for the bristles while all the handles are made with bamboo which is great natural wood alternative due to the natural speed at which it grows.
Juice Beauty not only uses organic and local materials for their products, but also packages their products with sustainably sourced and recycled paper. They have even gone as far as using soy ink for all their packaging (as opposed to petroleumbased ink). With their labs located in sunny California, they use solar power to manufacture a majority of their products. None of their products are tested on animals, and a portion of their profits go to charities that support green living.
www.ecotools.com
www.juicebeauty.com
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help Take part in the green revolition Let's make Eco-Friendly Beauty More than just a trend 1. Recycle! Most packaging is made of materials that can be recycled. Empty
plastic containers can be put into your local recycling bins or can be reused.
2. Take advantage of beauty companies recycling programs. A lot of companies
(like Lush for example) will take empty make-up containers, old hair care product bottles and give you something back as a bonus.
3. Buy multi-use make-up products such as eyes, lips, and cheeks tint. Not only will it save space in your make-up bag but you'll save money in your wallet and reduce packaging waste.
4. Have an empty eyeshadow pot? Take your lipstick thats at it's end and scoop it into the pot and use a blow dryer to melt it into the pot.
5. Have some friends over and make your own scrubs, face masks, leave-in
conditioners and cleaners with the ingredients in your kitchen. Not only will you know exactly what's going into it, but you can use re-useable containers to store them in. We've included three of the easiest ones we could find on the next page to get you started! text/ kaycee camaclang
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Fa c e E x f o l i at o r This formula will remove dead skin from the surface of the skin and re-hydrate your skin without irritation. Use in a gentle circular motions on your skin, rinse and moisturize. This recipe can be used as an all over body scrub. 3 Tablespoons of Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons of Honey 1/2 Cup of Sugar
L i p E x f o l i at o r Mix all the ingredients together and gently rub over your lips with your fingers. This formula will get rid of all the extra skin and leave your lips plump and moist. Rinse off and add lip balm to seal in the moisture. 1/2 Tablespoon of Vaseline 1/2 Tablespoon of Honey 1/2 Tablespoon of Oatmeal
Deep Conditioning Hair Mask Blend all the ingredients together and evenly apply to your hair. Evenly apply the mask to your hair, but only apply it to the ends of your hair if your scalp tends to get oily. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes and rinse. 1 Egg White 1/4 Cup of Plain Yogurt 1/4 Cup of Mayonnaise
Like what you see? Check out our other DIY Beauty Tutorials on the One1One blog!
diy ask yourself: Do you really need to spend $30 on a product you can make yourself? Why be on a constant look out for the "Best New Thing" when what is best for you could very well be in your own kitchen? text/ Kaycee Camaclang
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special kay
beats
get your dose of special kay —it's good for you text/ ghazal elhaei photography/ reema ismail We’re settling down into the home studio of Taylor McLean—better known as Special Kay Beats—while Illa J's Yancey Boys instrumental plays softly in the background. There's a massive Detroit poster on the wall and J Dilla memorabilia everywhere. On one wrist, he has tattoos of the Detroit old english D; on the other, one of J Dilla. It's pretty evident that his biggest influence lies within those two. Before we even start our interview, he is showing me some newlypurchased records, with a passion that is both admirable and intimidating. His knowledge of hip-hop and the respect that he exudes for iconic figures is awe-aspiring; it isn't pandemonium or ego when it comes to music, but respect—a trait that is lacking in young producers. We finally stop browsing his record collection and sit down.
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The roots
F i n d i n g yo u r n i c h e
My family was my first introduction to music: my dad makes guitars and my mom is a singer. They used to have a band and they knew about recording and gear and from there, I started getting into guitars and jazz. It wasn't until I was around fourteen or fifteen that a friend came over and brought over J Dilla's Donuts. He originally bought it because he thought the album cover looked cool. But then we listened to it and it changed my life.
I trained myself to listen to good music, dig for the lost records, samples and just listen.
It's an unexplainable feeling. The way it opened my eyes and the emotions that I felt while listening to that album was insane. What J Dilla did for me, I wanted to find a way to do that for others. Right after that record, I started getting into spinning and playing with records. I had been listening to records since I was really young but that really wanting me to pursue it further.
First record My first album was recorded in 2008. I never released but I believe it was around 40 songs. I had called it Border Crossing. It was a two-disc project and I wanted one disc to surround American samples, music and writers; then the second disc was crossing over to other countries like Italy, Lebanon, and Turkey. It was really cheesy, but it was literally about crossing over the border. I completed it in a span of two weeks. That project really got me going.
Discipline from within It's from having a good work ethic. I always stayed true to myself; I always felt that if I made whatever it was that I wanted to make, it would be more original. I wanted to fine-tune my craft, to have a technical grasp on music as opposed to just doing it.
Gearing it up When I was first sampling music I didn't understand my gear. It wasn't until I really grasped my MPC2000 that I really hit my stride. I feel most comfortable with an MPC in my hands. It's like the blue collar version of making hip hop. You really need to know what you're doing to do it well. To get my samples, I use vinyl of course. After I'm done working with the sample, I either record it onto cassette tapes or I put it into LOGIC pro.
I always stayed â??true to myself; I
always felt that if I made whatever it was that I wanted to make, it would be more original
â?ž
I also use the Roland SP404, which I use for the effects and the compressor. It's also portable, so I can make beats on the plane, on the bus, walking down to the corner store if need be. I use an ONKYO tape deck and a NUMARK iM1 turntable. I also use my little keyboard to add a softer feel as well as some bass sounds when needed.
Vinyl countd own I prefer to use records; it's like the root of hip hop. There's something about the sound of an old record. It's much warmer; it's not so digital and modern-sounding. Every time I drop the needle on a 45, and you hear the fuzz and you hear the mix, it just gives it such a stronger sound. I like to use old records in combination with something new or something created by myself.
Under the influence Right now, I've been listening to a lot of jazz music like John Coltrane. I also like a lot of funk and soul music, like some Nat King Cole, Sam Cooke, and Marvin Gaye. [Some hip-hop I listen to is] Slum Village, A Tribe Called Quest, Double XX Posse, Frank & Dank, People Under The Stairs, and D'Angelo. More current music I've been listening to is Little Dragon, Lianne La Havas, Kendrick Lamar, Mayer Hawthorne, Flying Lotus, and Samiyam.
Inspired thinking A lot of things keep me inspired: crate digging; Detroit inspires me; learning new music inspires me. I love learning new things about music. Even if it's something I'm never going to use, it is still inspiring. Of course, my family and friends always keep me inspired. For me to leave is hard. I like to record often and work often. You can limit yourself if you go into with restrictions. If you don't like something, save it and put it away. Then try doing something new and better than what you did before Even if it's a little bit better, you instantly feel better.
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It's like a domino effect. You're going to make a lot of stuff that you don't like but you just keep going.
S t u d i o dy n a m i c s Every time is different. I always try to have a strong work ethic. I try to always keep us going. If it's time to work, it's time to work. If it's the moment to goof, let's goof around. Just know when to differentiate the two though.
Work in pro gress I'm working on other collaborations right now with some strong artists [like Sick Vicious, Florentine, and Moka Only] and my solo record is coming up soon. I want to be able to reach out to people and show that you can still be original with hip- hop. I just want to put out good music. I want to show them that there is still a lot of good music out there.
Detroit rock cit y The people are the most amazing people you could ever meet. I'm a lover of all of Michigan. During my most recent trip, I stayed out there with some good friends of mine. The overall vibe of the city is like this crazy conglomerate of all types of things. You have the tourist side, then the ghetto. You've got a lot of rockers and a ton of hipsters. You've got hip hop artist that live there and legends that grew up there. To me, there are so many amazing things to do there. Even something as simple as listening to the albums Welcome to Detroit and 48 HRs, driving down 7 Mile and the emotions that I felt.
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D i l l a : a n i n s p i r at i o n He had such a strong ear. He was able to take any record and sample and flip it in a way you never would have thought. His personality and who he was; I know a lot of his story and it makes him so admirable. He literally did what he loved until the day he died.
Ahead of his time 48 HRS was supposed to release in 2003, but it never did. It just came out on an official release this year and it still sounds relevant. He had such a grasp of his craft. Personally, I don't think I could be good enough to associate myself with him; I look up to him too much. I am going to sample music but I think overall I would love to give to others the feeling that one can get listening to a J Dilla record.
Record release I have no idea [when my new record is coming out]. When it's ready it's ready. It will come out when the time is right.
L ast words Stay inspired. Always create and if it's something you really want, then do it.
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the one1one on special kay Favourite place in the world: Detroit Best record find: Matthew Larkin Cassell Favourite Song of All Time: That's not fair, that's too hard to decide. A record you've used over and over again: Marvin Gaye - Trouble Man One person you'd like to work with: Illa J Best spots to get records in Vancouver: Beat Street and Vinyl Records Favourite place to catch shows in Vancouver: Fortune Sound Club Favourite place to catch shows in Detroit: The Fillmore
www.soundcloud/ specialkaybeats www.twitter/ specialkaybeats www.instagram/ specialkaybeats
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six Cover Stars you need to know These guys probably have the best jobs in the world. Text/ Ghazal Elhaei We've compiled six of our favourite YouTube Cover stars that you need to know. These 'Tubers' have raised the standard for online stars, featuring original music, incredible cinematography, tours and merchandise.
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1. Mike Tompkins
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Toronto-based Mike Tompkins is professionally known as a voice and mouth producer, to us he's simply acca-amazing. (Yes, that's a 'Pitch Perfect' reference.) His unique approach to covering contemporary music has us admiring his musicianship and skills. His craft has expanded his platform, landing appearances on the Today Show, Ellen Degeneres, working with the cast of Pitch Perfect and collaborating with Canadian star and family friend Shad. I would put my money on Tompkins if there was a riff-off. Cover You Need To Watch: Suit & Tie - Justin Timberlake - Mike Tompkins - Watsky - 20/20 Experience
www.facebook/MikeTompkinsMusic Photo courtesy of facebook.com/miketompkinsmusic
www.twitter/Mike_tompkins www.instagram/mike_tompkins www.youtube/miketompkins www.lastfm/tompkins
2. Kurt Hugo
His medley's have featured many stars both on YouTube and off, and his talents are coveted by many within the industry. From Victoria Justice, Sam Tsui, Jessica Jarrell and his own brother Max Schneider; everyone has worked with this digital sensation. Given some time Schneider is going to place a huge impact amongst the pop scene, all he needs to do is produce that one great song that could move a generation. And he will, it's just a matter of time. Cover You Need To Watch: "Kiss You" - One Direction - Not Another Boy Band cover featuring Kurt Schneider, Sam Tsui, Chester See, Tyler Ward and Dave Days.
www.facebook/ KurtHugoSchneider www.twitter/kurthschneider www.instagram/kurtschneider Photo courtesy of facebook.com/KurtHugoSchneider
www.youtube/KurtHugoSchneider
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3. Collin
McLoughlin
Simply put: Collin is an amazing vocalist. His range and tone offer him the capability to not only find success, but longevity in this short-rate industry. He's got a whole lot of soul and this NY-based songbird exudes the essence of a star to be. It will be interesting to see where McLoughlin will be in a few years. Cover You Need To Watch: Save The World Tonight
www.facebook/CollinMcLoughlinMusic www.twitter/McLoughlinMusic www.youtube/McloughlinMusic Photo courtesy of collinmcloughlin.com
4. Eric Stanley
www.collinmcloughlin.com
Sometimes, you just have to listen to the music. Eric Stanley transforms your average pop song into a moment of wonder. The way the music transcends from his violin to the listener's ear is absolutely breathtaking. Automatically every song becomes a little smoother and a little sexier. His covers are the perfect soundtrack to a romantic night in. Cover You Need To Watch: Crew Love - Drake ft The Weeknd (Violin by Eric Stanley)
www.facebook/ericlstanley www.twitter/estan247 www.instagram/estan247 www.youtube/estan247 Photo courtesy of facebook.com/ericlstanley
www.ericstanleyglobal.com
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5. J. Rice
Joshua Adam Rice, more commonly known as J Rice is a Washington-based Pop/R&B singer. If I could confess my love for any YouTube star, it would be him. His voice is so soft and so mesmerizing, it's the perfect recipe for staying up late into the break of dawn. Now if only I could find a pause button, maybe I'd have less sleepless nights.
Cover You Need To Watch: Domino "Jessie J" A Capella Beatbox
www.facebook/jricemusic www.twitter/jricemusic www.instagram/jricemusic www.youtube/jriceproductions Photo courtesy of facebook.com/jricemusic
www.jricemusic.net
6. Helena maria
No, it's not a reflection but a talented sister/twin duo. Don't be fooled by these budding beauties, they're far more than just beauty but brains as well. These multi-talented musician and singers exude confidence and that ever so powerful, girl power. These girls set an example of class and talent that others should replicate.
Cover You Need To Watch: Bruno Mars - When I Was Your Man (Cover by HelenaMaria)
www.facebook/helenamariamusic www.twitter/helenamariaduo Photo courtesy of helenamaria.com
www.instagram/helenamariamusic www.youtube/helenamariamusic www.helenamaria.com
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record shop Phoenix Bankrupt
Yeah Yeah Yeahs Mosquito
Mark the date, April 23rd, 2013. Phoenix’s brand new 5th studio album Bankrupt is coming out on vinyl just a day after the CD release. This French alternative rock band became a tad more experimental with their new album; ditching the pop styles of the previous album Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix. Heading over to play at Coachella, Phoenix’s inspiration comes from the work done on Sofia Coppola’s film Somewhere. CHeck out their website for the latest updates, including tour information, soundcloud, and even a daily journal.
Can’t seem to get “Maps” out of your head from playing too much Rockband? Soon you’ll have some new tracks to become obsessed with as the band’s at it again. Set to release both a CD version and vinyl on the 16th of this month, the group has been described as “an art-rock trio who made an edgy post-punk, dance floor friendly racket that mixed up Blondie with Siouxsie and the Banshees”. This will be the 4th studio album for the indie rock band that was formed in New York City circa 2000. Made up of Karen O, Brian Chase, and Nick Zinner the band has gained success with each album release. Still aren’t convinced to purchase the vinyl? Give the first single a try, “Sacrilege”, it’s sure to have you addicted from the get-go.
The Bl ack Keys/ The Stooges No Fun
Get it while it lasts. Limited to only 7,500 copies, this soon to be collectors item is one of the featured vinyl’s as a part of the side by side vinyl series associated with the Record Store Day events that take place on April 20th, 2013. The purpose of the holiday? To keep independent record stores alive. The vinyl will feature The Stooges 1969 classic on one side, and the Black Key’s 2002 take on the single on the other, all pressed on an orange and red contrast vinyl. Get the vinyl while you can, once in a blue moon does an item like this come out.
text/ Monica Pankiewicz
Support independent record stores. Support vinyl. Support good music.
Flashback to the 60’s and 70’s, here are a few artist we think you should know about.
T h e C r e at i o n / 1 9 6 6
Eddie Phillips, Kevin Mann, Tony Barber, and Simon Tourle, the members of one of the best British acts that never crossed the border. The english rock band’s highest success was granted when they released their song “Painter Man”. Not only did it make it to #10 in the UK charts, but the hit was also covered by Boney M in 1979. Also having their song “Makin’ Time” featured in the movie Rushmore, the band has been acknowledged for their similarity to early records of The Who. Only having two albums, one release in 1967, and the other in 1996, we just wish the band got the success it deserved.
KAk / 1968
Although the psychedelic rock band that was based in San- Fran only stayed together for a year, the groups one album “KAK”eventually became a pricey collectors item. The album was even reissued with a new name “KAK-ola” in 1999, with bonus cuts, previously unreleased acoustic demos, and Lee Yoders (one of the groups members) solo tracks from the 60’s. With their unique psychedelic sound, KAK is sure to have you hooked from the first note.
Wa lt e r R o s s i / 1 9 7 2
From right here in good ‘ol Canada, and still together, the band is currently made up of Bernard Fern Quessy, Domenic Romanelli, Stephen Gaudreau, and of course Walter Rossi. The band’s legendary hard rock sound has sprouted out into 8 albums ranging from 1972 all the way till 2007. Creating new music as they go, the band, and it’s discography has brought pleasure and enjoyment to many and they’re still going strong. Although the band may not be “what the kids listen to” these days, give them a try, you won’t regret it. text/ Monica Pankiewicz
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