t h e m ag a z i n e o f o n e & o t h e r c r e at i v e
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OUTSIDER i s s u e
au t u m n
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Sculpture Lounge Studios, created by Brendan Hesmondhalgh
In a tiny leafy village just outside Holmfirth, West Yorkshire, an old textile mill with a river running by, is to be the new home of Sculpture Lounge Studios in partnership with The Art Market.
‘An exciting and unique place to create, make & manufacture art’. Phase one artist work spaces launch in late 2016 and phase two in 2017. To express an interest in an artist workspace visit:
artmarketapplications.co.uk
this issue is dedicated to the waifs and the strays
COVER (LEFT):
COVER (RIGHT):
THEO MASON WOOD
KAY DUFFY
The Lungs
Visual Pursuit
p.38 — Lung Jetee
p.24 — For The Love Of Femininity
It doesn’t matter how other people see you: words which need to matter more than ever. We live in an age of uniformity and constant approval-seeking. We are the ‘do you like my face’ generation of selfie-taking narcissists. Or are we? From a world of aesthetic pressure and competitive life styling, a new generation of anti-establishment is born. We are questioning what we are told more than ever: are we the new Bande à part? In celebration of this movement we have curated a selection of our city’s finest outcasts, rebels and questioners. From Kay Duffy’s Visual Pursuit; a social media It Girl wanting to use her name to change people’s ways of thinking and how they look at their body, to stylist Sophie Benson stripping us back to understanding quite what our disposable society has become. We have DIY record labels, guerilla film movements and a general two fingers up to who we are supposed to be. Is this our generation’s own interpretation of punk, or is it punk grown up? These are the questions this issue of the magazine attempts to answer. Read on… VICKY PARRY CREATIVE DIRECTOR
the magazine of one&other creative
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OUTSIDER is s u e spring
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FOUNDING MEMBERS DIRECTORS Vicky Parry Miles Watts
DESIGN
Ambiente Simon Newton Stephen Parry Richard Goulden Mike Brudenel Julia Parry
Sean Purdy
SPECIAL THANKS TO
PHOTOGRAPHY Esme Mai Ben Bentley Steve Piper Sam Forbes Walker
Cherie Federico Dale Donley Sam Robinson Jan Robinson Greg McGee Ails McGee Stan Smith Simon Newton Jay Cummings Chris Marsh Ainslie Waller Craig Stephenson Stu Goulden Jane White John White Herbie Lockwood Rachel & Andy Hazelwood
VIDEOGRAPHY Jamie McKeller Thomas Rosser Laura Williams Jack Hobbs
Oneandother.com Facebook.com/Oneandotheryork @Oneandother One&Other magazine is published by : One&Other Creative ltd, creative@oneandother.com
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NEWS 16 — 61
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EVENTS
NEWS NEWS NEWS
The Minster Illuminates
08
The News in Brief
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Little Eden
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NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
The Minster Illuminates
Illuminating York returns to our historic streets from Wednesday 26 to Saturday 29 October to transform aspects of the city through the imaginative and creative use of light. York Minster has stepped into the spotlight to announce the commissioning of the internationally renowned artist Jason Bruges.
Jason Bruges is a multi-disciplinary artist and designer based in London. Jason Bruges Studio has become internationally renowned for producing innovative installations, interventions and groundbreaking works by creating interactive spaces and surfaces that sit between the world of architecture, site specific installation art and interaction design. Considered a pioneer of this hybrid in-between space, Jason has subsequently paved the way for a new genre of design studios, artists and designer-makers.
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After a triumph lighting The Shard in London on New Year’s Eve, Jason Bruges Studio will become ‘light masons’ within the cavernous nave of York’s gothic cathedral. Using only white light and particulate suspended in the air, visitors will experience spectacular choreographed spaces carved out of light. The installation aims to connect people to their environment and experience the Minster in a way that has never been attempted before in what promises to be an event not to be missed.
PROMOTIONAL – YORK MINSTER: ILLUMINATING YORK THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
For more information visit yorkminster.org
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This is the only paid-for commission during Illuminating York, with standard admission prices of £8 for adults and £3.50 for children, which also includes admission to the East End exhibition and Chapter House. Each ticket is allocated a time slot. Family ticket and early bird deals are available.
THE NEWS
NEWS
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1 • One&Other’s Hallowscream Horror Having covered the making of the odd horror film, One&Other have finally made their own, with a promo for this year’s Hallowscream at York Maze. With five ghoulish attractions – including a new one called The Flesh Pot – Hallowscream opens on 14 October alongside our promo film, which follows the adventures of hapless victims Betsy and Brad as they run and scream their way through the fun and twisted world of York’s premium horror attraction. Book your tickets NOW at yorkmazehallowscream.com.
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York Theatre Royal and Pilot Theatre are collaborating on a large-scale community theatre co-production, which will take place in June 2017. The production will tell the largely unknown story of York’s suffragette movement and the ongoing struggle for female empowerment, setting the story within the national suffragette campaign and in the present day. The script will be written by Bridget Foreman and Mike Kenny and made by a team of directors working with Pilot Theatre who collaborated on Blood + Chocolate. Volunteer at yorktheatreroyal.co.uk.
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2 • York’s Suffragette Story
THE NEWS IN BRIEF
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IN BRIEF
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
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3 • Horror Film Studies York’s Basement at City Screen are offering a six week film course investigating the contemporary horror film. The course will investigate contemporary horror cinema around the globe. Each session includes a presentation/lecture followed by a tutorial where discussion is encouraged. Advance viewing is optional; select scenes and montages will be shown during weekly sessions. Course tutor Jon Towlson is a horror author and film critic for Starburst Magazine. Course dates: Every Tuesday 25 October to 29 November. Sign up at thebasementyork.co.uk.
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4 • A New Guildhall York’s Guildhall complex is being redeveloped to ensure its future viability with supporting commercial development on the riverside, maximising its economic use, heritage appeal and public access. A detailed business case will be taken to Executive and Full Council in February 2017 and if approved the work is expected to start mid 2017 with a completion by autumn 2018. Plans will continue to see the council retaining the use of the council chamber for Full Council meetings and the Guildhall for key civic and public events. More info at york.gov.uk.
NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
Little Eden is a shop with heart; nestled in Easingwold, its inviting exterior beckons you in. A family-run shop emanating the personality of its founders and the shops namesake. Who better to set the scene than those at its core: “We are a family run shop: James, Amy and Eden. If something is painted, it has been painted by us. If it is a unique find, we have found it. It is such a beautifully tactile experience to pick up the find on our travels and be the one to sell it on at the other end from our shop.
Little Eden’s first Christmas event is on 1 November from 6pm. Customers can get the first look at individually sourced gifts from rusty bell garlands to our apothecary candle range. We also have mulled wine, mince pies, live music and a free goody bag. Come and meet us!”
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On New Year’s Eve, Eden was born and in March, our aptly named ‘Little Eden Interiors’ was too. We stock furniture, homeware and gifts in vintage, retro, industrial and country home styles. We strive to strike a balance between an ‘Aladdin’s Cave’ where you can discover treasures but also just fly in for a quick card and gift.
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THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
littleedeninteriors@gmail.com • Open 7 days a week: Monday–Saturday: 10:00–17:00 • Sunday: 10:00–16:00
Little Eden Interiors • 97 Long Street • Easingwold • YO61 3HY Littleedeninteriors.com • 07923883026
PQA PLUS IS ENROLLING NOW! ADVANCED PERFORMING ARTS TUITION FOR ASPIRING PROFESSIONALS AGED 16-25.
BOOK YOUR FREE SESSION Thursdays from 6-9pm At Huntington School, Huntington Road, Huntington, York, YO32 9WT
PQA York is also enrolling 4-18 year olds for their Saturday Academies. Visit www.pqacademy.com Call 0800 531 6282
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While The Ink is Wet
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For The Love of Femininity
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The Gallows
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Lung Jetee
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FilmYork
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Slow Fashion
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Ails McGee: gallerist, charity director, creative innovator. As her Tower Street gallery According to McGee enters its 13th year, she looks forward to building on the launch of The Artillery, the place to go for hiring visual art. Here she selects the top four most exciting artists to watch.
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York’s biggest strength is not in its past, but in its continuum. The idea that a city can straddle both the worlds of heritage and the glittering digital age has been an inspiring touchstone pretty much since we set up in 2005.
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Generally, we’ve found that working within the confines of a ‘style’ is not restricting. It’s liberating, in that the artist is able to connect his or her initial concept to a wider audience, and perhaps even help to reinvent the style. ‘Design Francais’ is a typical platform for artists in that it comes accompanied with all the killer style of late 50s, early 60s, French and British New Wave, but it also leaves a lot of wriggle room for the artist to remix a few ideas, take existing snippets of visual and culture and resample them in a way that not only pertains to the initial vision of the first practitioners but can make the style seem competitive and relevant in today’s visual climate.
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In the early days as a gallerist I perhaps prioritised too much what I thought the next big thing was, and so for a while we tried to second guess the industry. That way, we quickly found, lies trouble. Our first few exhibitions dabbled in Conceptualism, in that we found the idea so much exciting than the way it was realised. It was around about the time I found myself scratching my head in front of a blank A4 piece of paper that we’d lovingly curated as a work of art that I thought we’d better revisit our manifesto. In the context of creativity, inception is great – execution and exhibition is even better.
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I’ve compiled a quick list of artists who I think are ones to watch. Using the blocks found in Design Francais as springboards, they’re well into their own respective ways of doing things. All share a professional focus and a collectible, visual theme: stylish, controlled, and mildly unsettling. As a litmus test into the current state of the contemporary art scene in the North, it’s not a bad start.
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1 • Jack Rientoul
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Though not currently producing the paintings and prints which brought him recognition and sales in our ‘Goldsmiths in the North’ exhibition, Jack has skewered the same effortlessly stylish vibe and is bringing it to some game changing video art. “The medium in which I work is generally irrelevant to me, whether it be painting, print or film. The important thing for me is to use my materials in unusual and playful ways. My work is almost entirely about process and that allows me to be fluid in any medium, digital video or oil paints; I don’t see much difference.”
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Milward’s literature is a constant feature on BBC’s ‘Culture Show’ (he is a favourite of Lauren Laverne), and his work has been translated into 9 languages. He has recently slipped into painting and we love it. He has had recent success all over UK, particularly in London, and we were stoked to exhibit his ‘Luddites’ Nightmares’ here in York earlier this summer. We love what he does with paint – wild, fearless, and a unique style throughout. Says Milward,” According to McGee is a particularly special setting given it’s in the shadow of Clifford’s Tower, where the original Luddites were imprisoned 200 years ago, my paintings being a modern surrealistic take on their plight.”
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2 • Richard Milward
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3 • Eddie Grant After completing his studies at Leeds College of Art, Eddie has exhibited all over the North and beyond – his work went down a treat in a New York group show, and the ‘Ones to Watch’ show at Farsley harnessed his intent: here is a young artist with a unique vision, and the focused ambition to get his work out there. Says Eddie, “I am inspired by colour and shape and form, and am particularly interested in Henry Moore and African art. Venetian vases and feminine curves seem to a recurring motif. The graphic aesthetic of New wave is fascinating in that it things are so clear and controlled, and that’s hopefully something I can bring to my own work.”
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4 • Amelia Willows With an eye on graphic visuals, Amelia has been working on a new series, ‘Missing the Point’. Says Amelia, “Sometimes the point in what we are doing is hidden beneath more surface intentions, our true purpose lurking behind us but never revealing itself. ‘Missing the Point’ is a multimedia series expressing our never ending search for purpose, and the difficulties that this can sometimes bring.” The ‘poster aesthetic’ in the series gives each image a unified, collectible quality.
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FOR THE LOVE OF FEMININIT Y THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
FOR THE LOVE OF FEMININITY 24 — 2 9
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Kay Duffy is a curator, creative consultant and creator of Urban Remedies. From Harper’s Bazaar and Dazed & Confused to The Saatchi Gallery, via a 55 thousand strong Instagram following, Kay now shares her Visual Pursuit.
Visual Pursuit started as my Tumblr, exploring female wonder through different eras. A pursuit of all things visually juicy and appealing to the senses.
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How was Visual Pursuit born?
I used to scan in editorials and clippings, repost images. From that digital archive, one day I felt compelled to create an Instagram and it grew into this platform.
I just love being a woman! And although for me that means being feminine, it doesn’t necessarily mean the same thing for all women. I am endlessly fascinated by different cultures, tribes and styles of female wonder and how artists interpret these in their work, often swaying away from socially conditioned portrayals that we see (and hopefully avoid) in media. Visual Pursuit is light-hearted for sure, but has an intentional underpinning of female solidarity and a running theme of nostalgia and technicolour: this is what makes my heart skip a beat. What is your background? While studying English Language and Linguistics in beautiful York (where I also first met my One&Other family) I obtained a placement in editorial fashion with Harper’s Bazaar. They hired me as a fashion assistant and I was offered a placement in Australia.
ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
What is the obsession with femininity and is there a political message underlying the project?
I decided to go freelance because I wanted to feed my constant desire to create, be social and network. I wanted to discover independents and work with entrepreneurial women, so that’s what I did in Australia. I went from PR to fashion management and I now work as part of a holistic business. I like to take a mindful approach to life; now I’m doing that as a career it feels a lot more real for me than luxe fashion. Visual Pursuit is the platform through which I can pursue fashion and art, engaging with powerful artists and collaborating with female creators of different professions; from wellbeing to photography. What is next for the project?
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Workshops! This is where is gets exciting for me, fusing well-being and fashion.
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THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
instagram.com/visualpursuit
“A pursuit of all things visually juicy and appealing to the senses”
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“Visual Pursuit isn’t trying to provoke a reaction by being ‘hard / soft core’, it is what it is: An Exploration of Female Wonder.”
How did the Saatchi exhibition come about?
Dazed and Confused described the movement as ‘soft core’ is this something you had considered? No (ha ha). Generally, society is always keen to label things and people will interpret as they want, it depends on the audience. Visual Pursuit isn’t trying to provoke a reaction by being ‘hard / soft core’, it is what it is: An Exploration of Female Wonder. Some who have mentioned Visual Pursuit to me immediately emphasise the freedom of female sexuality – it’s just a natural part of the platform. The female body is a magical vessel.
ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
The Saatchi offered me the education room to do a two-day launch but I have since decided that the first exhibition should be held in East London spanning over a week with various workshops. Stay tuned for that…
Is Visual Pursuit overtly sexual, or is sexualizing in the eye of the viewer? It’s female freedom and liberation. Nudity exists in non-sexual contexts. Are you an artist yourself or more of a curator? If the former could you share some work with us? Hummm, a curator is surely an artist. I write poetry (I’ll send you some!) Can people get involved and how? I run the platform independently but always looking for submissions – and now: for healers, makers and teachers for upcoming workshops.
Nature, sex and love, my generation.
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Name three things that inspire you.
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THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
FOR THE LOVE OF FEMININIT Y
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THE GALLOWS
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Photography: Esme Mai Styling: Vicky Parry Hair & Make-Up: Rachael Blackwell Ru Production: Miles Watts Models: Michelle Granford, Lucy Dabbs and Angus Maney
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THE GALLOWS
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CULTURE
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THE GALLOWS
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THE GALLOWS
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THE GALLOWS
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LUNG JETEE THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
LUNG JETEE 38—43
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In a city full of unique and special sounds, it can start to feel like York can’t have a lot of musical surprises left, but then you come across The Lungs and realise you never really can judge books by the cover.
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LUNG JETEE
The shaven-headed Theo Wood and Bonnie Milnes typically take to stage as just two voices and a guitar, dressed up in military camouflage and primary colours with an air of trailer park hip-hop chic.
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Whatever this leads you to expect, you’re unlikely to get it, as Theo starts finger-picking an Americana flavoured arpeggio and opens his mouth to release a voice buried in the deepest of octaves, whilst Bonnie’s voice swirls and harmonizes around him. It’s something like Leonard Cohen and Dolly Parton dueting on a song about... killing someone? We met up with the band in a rare spare second together in York; Theo’s been directing a play at the Edinburgh Fringe and in between gigs both have been spending the summer travelling around Europe, getting some rest time in before their forthcoming release ‘The Julianna Buttermaker EP’.
“It’s a collection of three songs named Julianna Buttermaker part 1, 2 and 3 which chronicle the protagonist’s relationship and aftermath with Julianna Buttermaker.” explains Theo. “It’s a dark tale from an odd and often disturbing world. That makes it sound pretty serious but it’s full of jokes.”
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“Theo wrote it,” adds Bonnie. “We arm wrestle and whoever loses has to write the next song. So far all the songs have been written by Theo.” Humour’s a critical part of the mix with the pair; they gurn and giggle their way through the La Jetee inspired photoshoot, complaining to each other, in character but also in their favourite European accents, about Theo’s annoying habit of disappearing back to the future.
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Facebook.com/TheLungsYork
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Facebook.com/youngthugsrecords
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“How did we get together? Well it’s the same as any band origin story.” Theo considers a second before going into it, as Bonnie grins towards him: “Basically we didn’t used to get on at all, we were the self-proclaimed messiahs of two separate cults. It was very controversial on the York cult scene. A lot of bad things were said on both sides, things that we both regret now but we were young and we both thought we were Christ reborn so obviously we both had pretty big egos.
The slightly less colourful version involves two childhood friends growing up amidst a circle of friends who all headed into the York music scene that seems to be coming of age at the moment, with names like Benjamin Francis Leftwich reaching well beyond the city walls and a maelstrom of artists from the assorted open mics and gig nights looking like they might have the potential to follow. “Yeah there’s some really cool bands in York and we’re best mates with most of them,” says Bonnie, “Bull are our boys and we really dig Fat Spatula, The Howl and The Hum and Washing Machine Repairman. I mean, we were really into N-Dubz, but when Tulisa left they lost their charm.”
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“Anyway there used to be this club in York called Mufties and on Saturdays it gave away free Tuna, it was great, ask anyone in York everyone used to go to Mufties on Tuna Saturday’s. So one night we were both in Mufties and there were only two seats so we had to sit together and we got to talking and it turned out we got along really well so we shaved our heads and fused our cults and then over time cults went out of fashion and we started playing music and the core members of our cults became our fan base.”
Recently signed to York record label Young Thugs, who talk a lot about the collaborative spirit of the local music scene, The Lungs subscribe to a similar ethos, with Bonnie guest-vocalling on the recent South Bank Suicide Club album and lending various talents to the Julianna Buttermaker recordings. “We had some trouble recording and trying to get the sound we wanted.” Theo remembers, “So we asked our mate Dan Lucas (of Bull) to record the EP because he knows our style and the sound we’re going for. Bradley Blackwell (The Howl and the Hum) came over and laid down some fat bass and Steven Reid (...And The Hangnails) put some hot drums on it too.”
And this DIY, low budget ethos brings us full circle back to the look of the band; work boots and white trainers, skinny jeans and basketball jersey dresses, big hoop earrings and string vests; where does it come from?
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Bonnie picks up the story: “We basically sat and recorded in his sister’s room for three days, thanks Martha! We used her toilet as a vocal booth.”
LUNG JETEE THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
“I’d love for us to dress proper punk but we’d have to commit to that and I like trackies and hoops too much.”
“Some of our favourite garms are actually found in bins.” Says Bonnie, no trace of a joke this time. ”Once, we were walking through Stoke Newington in London and found a plastic bag of clothes: Theo found a smart new vest and I found a sexy silk jumpsuit. Saying that if we got really loaded I reckon we would start buying real classy studs, but for now what we are trying to do is dress as spicy as we can on the cheap.”
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“I’d love for us to dress proper punk but we’d have to commit to that and I like trackies and hoops too much. We met these two proper punk skinheads in Croatia and stared at them admiringly for a while, considering. For now, I’d say we are more Kanye and Amber Rose (pre Kim). Shout out to Kanye; if you want to collab sometime, that would be cool. Whenever’s good for you.” The Julianna Buttermaker EP goes on release in mid-October on Young Thugs Records, a sublime mixture of trailer park black humour set to a soulful Americana soundtrack that you’d never expect to come out of York, keep a look out for it.
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A round up of all things filmic from the York Film Commission
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2016 has seen the profile of filmmaking in York and the surrounding area grow significantly, and York’s film office, working on attracting the industry to the region, has been keeping up with developments. From Dark Rift’s homegrown Lovecraftian horror The Creature Below taking the festival world by storm, to Mad As Birds’ Poms taking off across the pond, through to smaller budget shorts and features across various genres being made in the city, we investigate the pick of the films in recent production.
Glass Cannon Animation are taking a bold leap into the world of animated feature films this summer as they embark on a new project about life in prehistoric Britain, using expert advice from archaeologists at the University of York to bring a lost world back to life.
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Coracle Lake
glasscannon.co.uk
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Tales from Coracle Lake: The Search for Spring will transport viewers back 8000 years to a period known as the Mesolithic, where a fresh, wild and sometimes dangerous new land has been revealed as icy tundra begins to thaw. The story follows the fortunes of our young female protagonist, Mela, as she and her pioneering group explore a forgotten wilderness to the north of their depleted homeland. When a winter without end threatens the survival of the group, Mela and her best friend, Carr, take it upon themselves to find Spring and bring life to the new world. This family-friendly viewing adventures promises to be full of excitement and thrills, brought to life with stunning hand-drawn animation.
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The Creature Below
This H.P Lovecraft-inspired monster movie with a small budget and a huge reach has screened to great acclaim at FrightFest. Director Stewart Sparke discusses he and his co-director Paul Butler’s success:
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“We were absolutely blown away to hear that the film would be getting its World Premiere at Frightfest. The premiere was a great success and it was a delight to find that people were interested in seeing our low budget slimy horror movie. The film went to the Cannes Film Market back in May and will be released on Blu-ray next year. Our aspirations for our first feature film were to show to the world that we can make something ambitious on a very low budget, which will hopefully help in getting our next film made. Myself and Paul are developing a slate of potential second features at the moment and we don’t see ourselves slowing down any time soon.”
darkriftfilms.com
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Poms
Mad as Birds Films are a production company on the rise. After great critical success of their first feature Set Fire to The Stars – starring Elijah Wood, Kelly Riley, Shirley Henderson and the company’s own Celyn Jones – three BAFTA wins and a a triumphant worldwide release, they now have a huge slate of exciting projects on the cards. And the success stories seem to be flooding in.
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Following on from news that the Welsh government, advised by Pinewood Pictures, have invested in their high-end television series, Minotaur – they have now released news via Screen Daily that Sierra/ Affinity have come on board to finance and produce their latest comedy Poms, a US-UK comedy about the Sun City Poms, America’s first cheerleading squad for women aged over 60.
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Macbeth
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GSP Studios’ stunning version of Shakespeare’s dark classic. In Kit Monkman’s new adaptation, this classic tale of unchecked ambition, soured friendship, lost intimacy and the descent into nihilism is historically and geographically unplaced. Through a visually poetic and anti-naturalistic style, familiar characters and words are encountered in a strange and claustrophobic territory partly conjured by the mind. The whole production was filmed by One&Other Creative and viewable at oneandother.com. Meanwhile, the film is scheduled for a release later this year.
gspstudios.co.uk
York based Coffee Films, who pop up a lot around Young Thugs Records and just released their critically acclaimed Killing Joke music documentary on DVD and Blu-Ray (www.killingjokemovie.com) have begun shooting in York on a new dramatic feature film, Zero Day. Set in the early 2010s as hacktivism moved into the mainstream, the character-focused story follows a team of hackers carrying out corporation-embarrassing raids on poorly secured private consumer databases, eagerly parading their spoils to the world’s media. But as they push towards increasingly high profile targets the team stumble across evidence of a Government mass surveillance program, and are faced with a complex ethical dilemma of exposing or hiding what they’ve discovered, that spirals them into paranoia, in-fighting and mistrust.
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Zero Day
Written and directed by Steve Piper, who also produces the film alongside York native Sophie Kingsley, stars another York native, Connor Houlton, York University student Francesca Butler, and long-time Coffee Films collaborator David House from LA.
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The film is shooting and editing almost entirely in York (with a few scenes just down the road outside Hull and in Leeds) over the next month and is expected to begin appearing at festivals in the New Year.
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Fashion In Film – book by Christopher Laverty
York-based Christopher Laverty is a costume and fashion writer and consultant. As the creator and editor of the award-winning website Clothes on Film, he has appeared on HBO and the BBC, and in countless publications. He recently contributed to a book about the film The Grand Budapest Hotel. Fashion designers have been involved in movies since the early days of cinema. The result is some of the most eye-catching and influential costumes ever committed to film, from Ralph Lauren’s trend-setting masculine style for Diane Keaton in Annie Hall to Audrey Hepburn’s little black Givenchy dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
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Fashion in Film celebrates the contributions of fashion designers to cinema, exploring key garments, what they mean in context of the narrative, and why they are so memorable. Illustrated with beautiful film stills, fashion images and working sketches, this book will appeal to lovers of both fashion history and cinema.
clothesonfilm.com
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SLOW FASHION THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
SLOW FASHION 54 — 61
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Sophie Benson is a freelance writer and stylist with a focus on fashion, feminism and sustainability. After researching the environmental and human impact of fast fashion and her own shopping habits, she now takes a more considered approach to style. Here, Sophie talks about the benefits of curating a more sustainable wardrobe.
“When volume isn’t the priority, the process of making can be appreciated...
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Sophiebenson.com
SLOW FASHION
Images: Sam Forbes-Walker
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Slow fashion is the movement putting the brakes on the ever quickening pace of the fast fashion industry. Encapsulating the ideals of sustainability, closed loop production, minimising environmental impact, fair pay and safe working environments, it interrupts the rapid cycle of disposable fashion, substituting a more thoughtful alternative. The term was coined by Kate Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion in 2008 – taking inspiration from the slow food movement – as an antipode to the fast fashion model. Slow fashion remains the opposition; an outlier in an industry fuelled by instant gratification and the hunt for the next big thing. However, it is gaining momentum. An increasing number of designers and brands are adopting, or growing their businesses around, the tenets of slow fashion. Not interested in micro-seasons or second guessing trends, they prioritise craft, quality, fabric and finish. At odds with the highstreet model with which we are so familiar, these brands don’t want you to buy often; they want you to buy well. Sustainably-minded brands such as Patagonia, Reformation and Kowtow ask us to revisit the journey our clothes take between the sewing needle and our wardrobes; a concept which we’re increasingly removed from as production happens overseas and behind closed doors in uncomfortable and dangerous conditions.
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When volume isn’t the priority, the process of making can be appreciated. Fabrics are sourced locally, garments are hand finished and often one person is responsible for making each piece from start to finish. Of course, slow fashion doesn’t solely hinge on buying and consuming. To truly understand the value of clothes, many have taken to sidestepping consumerism entirely, instead making their own. Even the simplest of sewing skills can prolong the life of a garment, helping us unlearn our disposable mindset and giving worth to what hangs in our wardrobes.
...Often one person is responsible for making each piece from start to finish”
CULTURE
For my part, I am a reformed fast fashion supporter and proof that opting out of that particular cycle doesn’t mean opting out of fashion as a whole. Working in the industry, I worried that I would become irrelevant; out of sync with the zeitgeist, but in reality it actually furthers my fashion knowledge and has released me from the bizarre, self-inflicted pressure of chasing the new. Whilst I’ve always followed my own instincts where fashion is concerned I feel now, more than ever, that I have the space to breathe and develop my own style without the burden of the latest trend or must-have silhouette forming my decisions for me.
I don’t doubt that many will shudder at the phrase ‘slow fashion’, envisaging hemp, hand me downs and exclusively earthy colour palettes but it’s entirely possible to foster an individual aesthetic without resorting to falling back on unsustainable practices. Whether you swap, make, repurpose or buy, slowing down will positively impact manufacturers, the environment, your finances, your creativity and your conscience. Pull on the reins and reap the rewards.
ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
I’m certainly not immune to fast fashion’s charms. It’s hard not to be enticed by the new skirt length or a covetable print, but a slow fashion approach frees me from the compulsion to indulge in it. I now buy all of my clothes second hand or from independent designers (sportswear is a little trickier but I stick with companies such as Adidas and Nike who are pioneering recycled fabrics and zero waste policies). I also repair wherever possible and make rather than buy.
3 Slow Fashion Destinations in York Rebecca Carr @ Kiosk: Project Space kioskprojectspace.org/rebecca-carr-2016 41 Fossgate • YO1 9TF Handcrafted, purposeful unisex clothing.
Goodramgate A full shopping trip on a single street. Goodramgate is home to a run of charity shops full of pre-loved gems.
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Bowler Vintage 52 Fossgate • YO1 9TF A curated selection of reasonably priced vintage.
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THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
SLOW FASHION
CULTURE
The story behind the clothes
From opening spread — Outfit 1 Dress: Second hand via a vintage kilo sale. It happens to look almost exactly the same as one that Lanvin sent down their AW16 catwalk. Shirt: Vintage via depop.
From previous spread — Outfit 2 T-shirt: Vintage. My boyfriend has had this vintage t-shirt since he was a teenager and, after years of eyeing it up, he finally decided it was too small and I immediately adopted it as my own.
ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
Scarf: Vintage. I bought it about 10 years ago during my fixation with The Horrors’ monochrome aesthetic.
Skirt: Vintage (customised). I found this skirt in a vintage shop. It was a little too big so I took it apart and remade it so as not to interrupt the beautiful fabric with a seam. Gold chain: Inherited from my Nana.
Beaded bracelet: Made by Grandmothers who work as part of The Vine Project – a venture which supports children in Esikhawini who have been orphaned through AIDS. The jewellery is handmade by the grandmothers and provides an instant income through trade. The project also provides food vouchers, school uniforms, access to education and focuses on making the childrens’ homes safe and secure.
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Beaded necklace: A gift from a very kind man at a charity stall on a local market after I donated some home furnishings.
SLOW FASHION THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
This spread — Outfit 3 Top: Handmade by eye, without a pattern. I crocheted the straps from jersey yarn which is created from factory off cuts in order to minimise waste. Trousers: Second hand via Depop.
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Neckerchief and all Jewellery: Vintage. Sandals: Second hand via my Mother-In-Law.
EVENTS EVENTS EVENTS EVENTS
Theatre Listings
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Film Listings
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Music Listings
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Comedy Listings
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Art Listings
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Community Listings
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Festive Listings
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New Year’s Message
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NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
THEATRE
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Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein – York Theatre Royal • 3–26 November
TEHE ATRE
Moby Dick – York Theatre Royal • 19 Oct–3 November An epic in every sense of the word, Herman Melville’s maritime masterpiece comes to life in an inspirational new production. Your voyage begins in a local fishing inn, an in-the-round interactive theatre set within a medieval Guildhall where a group of old fisherman meet. Featuring spectacular live music and songs of the sea this promises to be a bold, exhilarating sea-faring adventure like no other.
Lady Chatterley’s Lover – York Theatre Royal • 25–29 October
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
This world premiere production is brought to the stage by English Touring Theatre and Sheffield Theatres. English Touring Theatre’s recent productions include The Herbal Bed (“A stirring evening” – The Guardian).
Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein – York Theatre Royal • 3–26 November 1818 and the 19-year-old Mary Shelley writes the most seminal horror and sci-fi novel of all time. A tale of science, godless creation, education and death bourn from a nightmare on the edge of Lake Geneva. The Flanagan Collective weave the horror of Frankenstein and the fascinating life of Mary Shelley in to an unpredictable promenade adventure. Meet at York Theatre Royal at 8pm before going on a journey around the city.
Wonderland – Grand Opera House York • 6–11 March 2017
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TV and West End star Wendi Peters, much loved for her acclaimed portrayal of Cilla Battersby-Brown in Coronation Street, will headline the UK tour of Wonderland as Queen of Hearts in this enchanting musical adaptation of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and Through the Looking Glass, with a huge heart, a medley of magic and a whole lot of wonder. Heralded by the New York Times as “inspirational.”
NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
FILM
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The Doom Generation – Kinofolk at The Basement • 10 October
FILM
The Doom Generation – Kinofolk at The Basement • 10 October Teens Jordan White (James Duval) and Amy Blue (Rose McGowan) pick up a handsome drifter named Xavier Red (Johnathon Schaech). Red tends to create combustible situations – for example, a trip to a convenience store leads to a clerk getting decapitated. Afterward, the trio voyages through small-town America, where Amy is accosted by various men claiming to be her lovers, and she and Jordan findthemselves drawn to Xavier. But can any amount of sex lift the sense of doom hanging over them?
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Aesthetica Short Film Festival – Citywide • 3–6 November A BAFTA-qualifying short film festival that takes place annually at the beginning of November in York, featuring many industry events across the entire city including film industry experts and a chance to see hundreds of great new short films from promising and established filmmakers.
American Graffiti – South bank Community Cinema • 18 November A couple of high school grads spend one final night cruising the strip with their buddies before they go off to college in George Lucas’ classic small town movie with a soon-to-be-stellar cast of Richard Dreyfuss, Harrison Ford and Ron Howard.
States of Terror – The Basement: every Tuesday • 25 October–29 November
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Starburst film critic Jon Towlson runs this six-week course investigating contemporary horror cinema around the globe. Focusing on a different national cinema each week, we look at what terrifies the people of these nation states and ways in which horror crosses over to international audiences.
NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
MUSIC
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Ulrika Spacek – The Fulford Arms • 14 October
MUSIC
Ulrika Spacek – The Fulford Arms • 14 October Although forming in Berlin in 2014 by Rhys Edwards and Rhys Williams, Ulrika Spacek now work from a shared house in Homerton, London, creating music that combines fuzz, monotony and noise pop. Subsequently the band released their debut album ‘The Album Paranoia’ in January 2016 via Tough Love records. The band have since supported Parquet Courts, Cavern of Anti-Matter, DIIV, Ought and Sunflower Bean and are lined up for every alternative festival worth its salt in 2016.
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Bad Breeding – The Fulford Arms • York 19 October This young Stevenage four piece are blazing a trail through small venues the country over. They’ve just released their debut album and you can join them in York for the first time: it’ll help you forget our 2016 frustrations for one night at least. “The interesting thing about Bad Breeding is that, while you’re listening to them, they dissolve all notions of now and then and make you feel as though you’re hearing this noise for the first time.” – The Guardian.
Birdy – York Barbican • 2 November Birdy has had a fantastic start to 2016 with the release of her third album ‘Beautiful Lies’ the album charted in the Top 10 in 43 countries worldwide, including number 4 in the UK, along with performances on The Voice UK, Graham Norton and an appearance on BBC breakfast. Tomorrow will see Birdy play a sold out show at London’s Roundhouse before returning to the UK to embark on a national tour this autumn.
The Fall – Fibbers • 19 November
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Mark E. Smith is the very definition of indie without the beard and Vans. Political correctness not present thank you very much, the eternal maverick and belligerent bastard within Mr Manchester is consumed with razor-sharp wit and bitter cynicism, all sung-spoken to a band that rocks the **** out like no other. So praise The Lord for Mark E Smith and real music. He’s the closest thing to the genuine article you’ll ever know. And he’s not going to be on a Direct Line or Warburtons advert any time soon.
NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
COMEDY
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Romesh Rangamathan – York Barbican • 23 October
COMEDY
Jimmy Carr – Grand Opera House York • 25 September Jimmy is gathering a selection of his very best jokes along with brand new material for the ultimate comedy show. A man who has devoted his life to crafting perfect jokes and has left a trail of laughter in his wake, Jimmy Carr’s new tour will distil everything we love to laugh at and be shocked by, into one incredible, unparalleled night of entertainment.
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Romesh Rangamathan – York Barbican • 23 October Romesh Ranganathan is back with a brand new show exploring the rationality of his worldview. ‘Irrational’ will see Romesh examine the issues close to his heart, and explains why everybody else is wrong about them. The last two years have been incredible for Ranganathan with his two critically acclaimed Edinburgh Festival shows, ‘Rom Wasn’t Built In A Day’ and ‘Rom Com’ being nominated for the coveted Edinburgh Festival Awards for Best Show 2014 and Best Newcomer in 2013. This new show promises to be as much of a hit!
Nina Conti – Grand Opera House York • 24 October Bursting with fresh and astonishing spontaneity, the voice-throwing queen is back on the road with her sell-out show ‘In Your Face’ following her 2016 hit West End season at The Criterion Theatre. British comedy award winning ventriloquist Nina Conti uses face masks to turn her audience members into puppets and improvises a hilarious new show every night. No two shows are ever the same.
Beth Vyse – The Basement York • 17 November
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Beth Vyse is back with an extraordinary look at her battle with Breast Cancer. Hear the tale of her Stoke-on-Trent family; The Waltons on Alcohol, her time with Nelson Mandela, acting and thieving at the Royal Shakespeare Company, settling down with Michael Jackson and finding cancer. Not to mention her producing two football teams from her womb. And all before the age of 30!
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ART
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Flesh – York Art Gallery • until 19 March
ART
Shades of Black and White – Lotte Inch Gallery • until 15 October An exhibition celebrating the endless possibilities of using black, white and all that lies in between, in printmaking, drawing, painting and ceramic arts. This newly curated exhibition features an array of artists and makers whose work each challenges the idea that black and white is lifeless, instead revelling in the beauty of shape, form and tone highlighted through the process of using a monochrome pallet.
Flesh – York Art Gallery • until 19 March
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Human and animal, alive and dead, familiar and strange; this major exhibition will explore how artists represent flesh in their work. Paintings by artists including, Peter Paul Rubens, Edgar Degas, Jean-Baptiste Siméon Chardin, Circle of Rembrandt and Francis Bacon will show how the body and flesh have long been subject to intense scrutiny by artists.
The Art Market Holmfirth – 13 & 27 November The very best of Art, Design & Contemporary Craft, The Art Market HOLMFIRTH is a ‘one day pop-up show’ which also includes artist demonstrations, interactive area, live music and cafe. £2 entry on the door – includes free entry into our Art Raffle (Children under 14 are free). Holmfirth Indoor Market, Huddersfield Road, HD9 3JH. There is access on both floors for easy loading and unloading.
The Hammer of the Outsider Exhibition – According to McGee • January 2017
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Dean Stalham is the consummate cultural outsider, bringing a collection of work from Jeremy Deller, Grayson Perry, Delaine and Damian le Bas, Kirsty Allison, Chris Wilson, Stephen Ellis, Matthew Meadows and his own. The title of the show pertains to a great quote: “Art is not a mirror held up to reality, but a hammer with which to shape it.”
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COMMUNITY
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Iluminating York – Citywide • 26–29 October
COMMUNIT Y
Wolf Hall Comes to York – Barley Hall • 19 September 2016–31 March 2017 Barley Hall’s ‘Power & Glory’ exhibition is now home to some of the most beautiful costumes from the smash hit BBC series, Wolf Hall. Explore the complex relationships of court life in Tudor England, where love, lust and politics mixed together creating chaos for the nation. Discover how Cromwell’s machinations allowed for the annulment of one of Henry’s marriage leading to the English church’s divorce from Rome. Includes costumes worn by stars from the series, including Mark Rylance, Bernard Hill, Claire Foy and more.
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Illuminating York – Citywide • 26–29 October Transforming aspects of the city through the use of light – that’s the promise from organisers of the eleventh Illuminating York, supported by Arts Council England, which returns to the city. This year’s event features seven newly commissioned artworks using light, an expanded light trail and a host of ‘fringe’ events to create evenings to remember across York’s historic streets.
York Maze Fireworks Spectacular – Elvington Lane, York • 5 November For an amazing bonfire night to remember, remember in York the home of Guy Fawkes, book your tickets for The York Maze Fireworks Spectacular. Held every year on 5th November there will be fireshows, the explosive lighting of York’s biggest bonfire, food stalls, live music, sideshows and of course the most amazing fireworks show choreographed to music.
York Literature Festival • 16–30 March 2017
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The festival promotes the arts in York, with an emphasis on literature, spoken word and poetry. We also feature music, comedy, cinema and theatre in our programme. The festival takes place annually in March.
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FESTIVE
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The Snowman and the Nutcracker – York Barbican • 16 December
FESTIVE
The Mischief Before Christmas – York Theatre Royal • 3–24 December State of Play Theatre are back this Christmas with their interactive adventure, bursting with festive spirit, life-size puppets, an elf named Frank and a girl called Sophie. Join the journey around the beautifully refurbished York Theatre Royal on an adventure fizzing with magic, mystery and music! Just perfect to get you and your family in the festive spirit.
Cinderella – York Theatre Royal • 8 December–28 January
THE OUTSIDER ISSUE
Following an astounding panto at the Signal Box Theatre, Berwick and the gang are back where they belong: on the brand-new stage in the newly refurbished York Theatre Royal. Even more incredible sets, stunning costumes, outstanding song-and-dance routines, jaw-dropping effects, and slapstick lunacy to amaze and delight all ages!
Aladdin – Grand Opera House York • 9 December–1 January With wondrous 3D special effects, a magical Genie, dazzling sets, glamorous costumes, fabulous music and hysterical comedy and a generous sprinkling of magic, a load of mischief and mayhem and a good chunk of audience participation, this is a rollicking great panto for everyone.
The Snowman and the Nutcracker – York Barbican • 16 December
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Following on from their highly acclaimed 33 performance tour last December, Carrot Productions are visiting York Barbican to share their Snowman magic. Hear some of the UK’s top musicians perform Howard Blake’s beautiful soundtrack – including the evocative ‘Walking in the Air’ – in perfect synchronicity with the film shown on the big screen.
NEWS ONE&OTHER MAGA ZINE
Illustration by: emilyhayes.co.uk
A Festive Message from One&Other
2016 was tough for a lot of us. We lost some of our cultural heroes: David Bowie, Prince, Alan Rickman, Victoria Wood and too many others. Politics got terrifyingly silly. Through it all, though, we remain ever hopeful that the coming year will be one of promise and peace.
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We wish all our readers a Happy Season and of course a Happy Christmas & New Year when the time comes. We’ll see you in 2017.
One&Other Creative make feature films, produce printed media and support the underdog. We specialise in all that is beautiful. We make news, we curate news. We believe in making things great. We design, we take photos, we art direct and we collaborate. If you would like to work with us, contact: creative@oneandother.com