Yukon Bouldering Guidebook Preview - ROCK GARDENS

YUKON

1st EDITION

Bouldering

E I V

E R

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By Ethan Allen and Sierra Allen

Rock Gardens

32

Rock Gardens

Rock Gardens The Rock Gardens is the main local bouldering and sport climbing area just minutes from downtown Whitehorse. From the Klondike Hwy, take the South Access Rd. West towards Copper Ridge. Park along the side roads right before going up the hill OR follow the road to the round about, take the first right and park at the designated parking area on your right.

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The West End

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D&D Boulder

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Rock Gardens S

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Gimps Area

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33 E S W

D & D Boulder

South Access Rd.

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Red Survey Post 1

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50mts

Dungeons and Dragons Boulder The D&D is a lone boulder located on the south side of the South Access Rd, across the road from the main area of the Rock Gardens. It is popular for its concentration of steep climbing within walking distance of downtown Whitehorse.

4. Mephisto V3

Crouch start on mitt-like feature, move left to a giant left-facing sidepull then up over the bulge and straight up on good incut crimps.

5. Dungeon Master V5

Same start as Mephisto, this time climb straight up staying left of the long parallel cracks.

1. Cockatrice V3

Start sitting at the far left of the sloping lip matched on a large flat hold. Climb right up the rail to top out at the highest point of the prow.

2. The Burgler V5

Start sitting directly below the prow. Right hand on sidepull at waist height and left on good undercling low. Climb up and slightly left using small holds and foot trickery to gain the rail.

Top out as for Cockatrice.

3. Your Dog Eats Sh!t V0

Sit start, right hand low on big undercling and left hand on sloping hold at waist height. Climb up on jugs through blocky feature.

TRAIL ENTRANCE TO THE D&D BOULDER

Rock Gardens

To Downtown Whitehorse

N

34 6. Fire Breather V5

Same start as the two previous problems, climb up right through parallel cracks, and follow them trending left to the top.

7. Dragon V5

Rock Gardens

Start in the middle of the tall face and traverse left through small crimps in an upward trending diagonal crack. Finish up as Fire Breather.

3

8. Wizards of the Coast V5

Start as for dragon but climb straight up through mini roof.

9. Mossy Highball V1

1

Same start as Dragon but climb straight up the tall face through a series of incut left facing sidepulls. Not really mossy or highball. Classic!

10. Hobbit Start

Sit start to problems #7, #8, and #9 for extra value.

2

11. Mosquito Reunion V7

Start as #9. Traverse left through the whole steep side of the boulder staying fairly low all the way. Climb into #2 and top out up the sloper rail.

12. Dragon Heart V0

D&D LEFT SIDE

Start on ledge and climb up through small dihedral.

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6 7

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12

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DUNGEON AND DRAGONS BOULDER

35 MOSSY HIGHBALL

Rock Gardens

FIRE BREATHER

MOSSY HIGHBALL

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The Roadside Area

Rock Gardens

From the D&D Boulder, cross the South Access road. Once on the other side, follow it up to the road cut rock mound. The Roadside Area is directly on the backside facing away from the road. This area can also be accessed from the West Side. Cut off the rim trail halfway to the Gimps Area and head southeast toward the road.

Credit Card Boulder 4 1

3 2

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ROADSIDE AREA

South Access Road

Credit Card Boulder 1. The System’s Got You V0

Sit start as low as possible just to the right of the left arete.

Short and sweet.

2. Swipe and Go V1

Sit start in in obvious vertical finger crack. Tweaky.

3. Air Miles V2

Climb up the crack! Great line.

4. Credit Card Debt V4

Sit start left hand in slot and right hand on good hold to the right. Climb left to juggy flake. When flake ends move right through thin section to jugs at the top.

7 8

To Downtown Whitehorse

Roadside Problems 5. Bad Credit V5

Sit start on incut jug. Climb up though a flake that flexes and will one day explode. Proceed with extreme caution on the upper section or if you’re scared, just drop of from the jugs.

6. Youth and Progress V0

Start matched on rail, climb to the top on using holds on the right side of the face.

7. Little People V0

Climb the slabby arete.

8. Tree Hugger V3

Sit start on sweet undercling. Slap up for a sloper and crank up on tricky feet.

37 CREDIT CARD BOULDER

4

5

BAD CREDIT

BAD CREDIT

TREE HUGGER

Rock Gardens

3

38

The Gimps Area The Gimps are is located just up from the lower (east) end of the canyon. It is located along the south rim trail and can be accessed from either end of the canyon.

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Rock Gardens

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GIMPS AREA

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Down With the Gimps

The Pinch Prow

2. Triominos V1

1. The Pinch Prow V0

Start on good jug right on the corner and climb up the prow.

Start with left hand on good crimp and climb straight up the face.

Down With the Gimps 1

The obvious roof just below the main trail.

2

3. Down With the Gimps V5

Sit start matched on big jug at the back of the roof. Move left to another good hold. Climb out the roof using a series of underclings and your feet pasted on small footholds on the right hand wall to gain a big jug just to the right of the prow. Helps to be long. Be careful on the moss above.

4. Up With the Wimps V2

Start as #3 but move left to big hold just above the left side of the roof. Make a big move out to the prow and finish up as for #3.

THE PINCH PROW

39 5. Life of Uncertainty V2

Start on good holds in middle of the face. Climb straight up through small roof feature.

5

Rock Gardens

LIFE OF UNCERTAINTY

3 4

DOWN WITH THE GIMPS 6 7

The Emotional Block Tall block with a less than ideal landing.

6. Smoke Stack V0 Climb the Chimney!

7. Eyeless in Gaza V3

Climb the striking tall face. Be careful with the back breaker rock at the base and the epic landing. Bring lots of spotters.

8. Excess Breeds Contempt

This bold line is very tall and intimidating with insecure moves towards the top. It is not graded but according to the first ascentionist, “It’s all 5.11 moves on a good day except the first few.”

THE EMOTIONAL BLOCK

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The West End This area is located at the far west end of the canyon. Can be reached via the main trail that follows the canyon rim on the south side or from the West parking lot take the first trail on the right, crossing a biker’s bridge. s

ort route

Rock Gardens

- Sp Canyon

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rking Lot

To Upper Pa

E 1

S 5

s

adside Area

To Gimps/Ro

THE WEST END

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3

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West End Blocks 1. Quantum Solstice V3

Start with two hands on jug at head hight and climb the right arete. Brilliant climb.

1

2. Back to Building Blocks V4

Start sitting with good hands, climb to the top avoiding the right arete.

3. Nothing Funny ‘Bout a Funny Bone V5

Start matched on good crimp down low, climb up the left arete.

4.The Shape of Punk to Come V2

Start in a finger crack and climb up to scary guillotine block to top out.

5. The Tower of Label V0

Climb the free standing tower on the face with the graffitied sun.

QUANTUM SOLSTICE

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Rock Gardens

2

BACK TO BUILDING BLOCKS THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

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QUANTUM SOLSTICE 4

THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

5

THE TOWER OF LABEL

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Rock Gardens

BACK TO BUILDING BLOCKS

THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

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Rock Gardens