JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIES 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 1
Established in 1793, BONHAMS is one of the leading international auction houses for Fine Jewellery, holding principal auctions in Hong Kong, London and New York. With over 20 qualified jewellery specialists worldwide and 40 dedicated jewellery sales, we sell close to 10,000 lots of jewellery per year.
成立於1793年, 邦翰斯在高級珠寶領域中是國際拍賣行翹楚之一, 拍 賣主要在香港,倫敦,紐約舉行, 全球有超過20位珠寶專家及每年40 場珠寶拍賣,拍品接近10,000多件。
“The Bonhams Masterclasses were very insightful, and a great eye opener to the world of high jewellery.” “邦翰斯珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程不但讓人眼界大開, 更可走進及了解高級珠 寶的彩色世界” Stephanie Ip, Writer for SCMP Special Publications 葉澄, 南華早報特刊記者
“I found The Bonhams Masterclasses informative, educational and very useful.” “邦翰斯珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課非常實用, 資訊及教育性兼而有之” Emilie Yabut-Razon, Editor for Watches & Jewellery of Hong Kong Tatler Emilie Yabut-Razon, Hong Kong Tatler 鐘錶及珠寶編輯
Front Cover: A 5.30 carat fancy deep blue diamond ring, sold for a world record price of HK$13,500,000 per carat 封面: 5.30克拉天然濃彩藍色鑽石戒指, 以破世界紀錄每克拉港幣 13,500,000成交
2 |
BONHAMS
Introduction
前言
The global diamond, gemstone and jewellery market is multi-faceted and continually evolving, which is why the Bonhams Hong Kong Jewellery Department has created a dedicated and informative Masterclass series covering a wide variety of topics including: - - - - - - -
Diamonds and Fancy Coloured Diamonds What Influences the Price of Jadeite Rubies and Sapphires; the Corundum family Comparing Emeralds from South America and Africa Investing in Jewellery How to Spot a Fake Understanding Buying and Selling at Auction
Our objective is clear, we aim to share our knowledge with our clients so they make informed decisions about buying and selling jewellery and gemstones at auction.
放眼全球的鑽石,寶石和珠寶市場, 它們都正在多面體的不斷變化, 因此 邦翰斯香港珠寶部門籌備及設計了一系列具市場資訊及內容豐富的珠寶 課程,涵蓋了各類主題包括: - - - - - - -
鑽石及彩色鑽石 影響翡翠價格的因素 紅寶石和藍寶石, 剛玉家族 南美及非洲祖母綠的對照 珠寶投資 如何識別真偽 認識如何在拍賣場進行買賣
我們希望通過這些課程, 讓我們的客戶了解更多的珠寶知識, 並在拍賣行 購買和出售珠寶時更有信心。
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 1
Diamonds and Fancy Coloured Diamonds
鑽石及彩色鑽石
The Diamond and Coloured Diamond Masterclass offers an in depth explanation of the Four Cs: Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat and examines why each is important. We will further discuss how to combine the Four Cs, to make informed purchase decisions. You will also learn how to interpret a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) report and we will explain the basics of how to value a diamond. The Coloured Diamond segment of the class will cover the science behind their colour and how GIA grades fancy coloured diamonds. This market faces enormous change and, with our insights, you will gain a clear snapshot of today’s market and a guide to the factors that may determine the future direction of this market.
鑽石和彩色鑽石課程內容包括對鑽石4C的深入解析: 顏色, 淨度, 切工和克拉, 並逐一探討其重要性。我們將進一步討論如何結合4C標準作出購買決定, 還 有如何解讀GIA (美國寶石學院) 的報告以及了解鑽石估價的基本知識。 彩色鑽石內容包括彩鑽致色的科學原理及GIA如何評級。 現時彩鑽市場面對巨大變化, 我們會用專業眼光帶你捕捉它的現在和未來趨 勢。
2 |
BONHAMS
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 3
What Influences the Price of Jadeite
影響翡翠價格的因素
Jade or ‘Yu’ has always been treasured by Chinese collectors and, due to its rarity, it can be one of the world’s most expensive gemstones. As a result, fine jadeite jewellery is always an important part of auctions throughout Asia. This masterclass will focus on how to judge the quality of jadeite. We will discuss major influences such as colour, clarity, saturation and translucency which are the principal factors that affect the price.
翡翠或玉一直以來受到中國藏家的愛戴, 由於其稀有性, 翡翠可能是世界上 最貴的寶石之一。因此, 在亞洲的珠寶拍賣場中, 高品質翡翠首飾經常佔有 一席之地。 這課堂將帶您探討如何判斷翡翠的質地, 如翡翠顏色, 淨度, 飽和度及透明度 等因素如何影響翡翠的價格。
4 |
BONHAMS
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 5
Rubies and Sapphires; the Corundum family
紅寶石和藍寶石, 剛玉家族
The international market for rubies and sapphires is changing and world records are being broken. To understand why, we will discuss a range of topics including worldwide production, science and crystallography, colour and clarity grading, as well as the importance of geographic gemstone origins, such as Myanmar (Burma), Kashmir, Sri Lanka (Ceylon) and Madagascar. This class will explain in detail what gemmologists look for when grading the origin of rubies and sapphires and you will learn how to carefully examine gemstones. We will also cover today’s market place and the factors that may determine the future direction of this market.
紅藍寶石的國際市場時刻在變, 其價格不斷打破世界紀錄。我們將通過不同 角度分析其原因所在, 包括全球產量, 晶體結構, 顏色, 淨度評級和寶石產地來 源的重要性, 例如緬甸, 克什米爾, 斯里蘭卡 (錫蘭) 和馬達加斯加。 這課堂將詳細說明寶石學家如何判別紅藍寶石的不同產地來源, 更會教您如 何詳細驗證寶石, 同時分析現今市場及未來發展。
6 |
BONHAMS
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 7
Comparing Emeralds from South America and Africa
南美及非洲祖母綠的對照
Demand for emeralds has never been stronger and the price of Colombian emeralds is increasing rapidly. However, Zambian emeralds are being sold for significantly less, yet their colour and purity can sometimes be very similar? We will explore the differences and examine which offers the best opportunities and why. We will also explain to you the oil treatment process, what is acceptable and unacceptable within the trade and what to look out for when making purchase decisions.
祖母綠的市場近年備受關注, 出產自哥倫比亞的祖母綠價格飛躍驚人。然而, 贊比亞祖母綠的價格相對遜色, 是什麼原因令兩顆不同產地但顏色和純度近 似的祖母綠價格有如此大的差異? 我們將探討兩者的區別, 並講解價值所在 及原因。 我們還將講解祖母綠加油處理過程中什麼可接受或不可接受, 以便您在購買 時作出正確的決定。
8 |
BONHAMS
A 4.62 carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring 4.62克拉哥倫比亞祖母綠配鑽石戒指
A 4.52 carat Zambian emerald and diamond ring 4.52克拉讚比亞祖母綠配鑽石戒指
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 9
Investing in Jewellery
珠寶投資
A 5.50 carat, brilliant-cut, D colour, Internally Flawless diamond has increased in value by approximately 150% in the last 10 years. It has also been reported that some fancy coloured diamond prices double every 5 years. Would you like to know why? When buying diamonds, coloured diamonds and gemstones as an investment, the past is no guide to the future. However, to fully comprehend future diamond, coloured diamond and gemstone prices, one does need to consider the past and future supply and demand. In addition to discussing the wholesale diamond and gemstone markets, we will consider which combinations of the Four Cs: Colour, Clarity, Carat and Cut have increased in value the most in the last decade and why. We will also compare how prices of coloured diamonds, gemstones, natural pearls and signed vintage jewellery by Houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels have increased within the last decade.
一顆明亮式切割D色內部無瑕5.50克拉鑽石的價值在過去10年間增長了約 150％, 另跟據其他報導, 部分達到彩色等級的鑽石, 其價值每五年翻一番, 你 想知道其中原因嗎? 當購買鑽石,彩色鑽石和寶石作為投資時, 雖然不能完全參考過去, 但是要完 全理解鑽石, 彩色鑽石和寶石的價格走向, 我們確實需要做些溫故功課和考慮 未來供求趨勢。 除了討論鑽石批發市場, 我們也會分析過去十年間鑽石價值增長最好的4C組 合 (顏色, 淨度, 克拉和切工) 及原因。 我們還將比較在過去十年間, 彩色鑽石, 寶石, 天然珍珠, 品牌古董珠寶如卡地 亞和梵克雅寶的價格增長情況。
10 |
BONHAMS
Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index Report
RAPAPORT : (.30 - .39 CT.) : 04/01/05 IF
VVS1 VVS2 VS1
RO
VS2
S11
S12
S13
11
12
13
D
47
41
36
32
29
22
18
16
13
10
7
E
42
38
34
30
27
21
17
16
12
9
6
F
39
36
31
28
25
20
16
15
11
8
6
G
37
33
29
25
20
20 18
15
14
10
8
5
H
31
27
23
20
18
16
13
9
7
5
I
24
21
20
18
16
18
14
15
13
12
9
7
5
J
19
18
17
15
14
13
12
11
8
7
4
K
17
16
15
13
12
11
10
9
8
6
4
L
13
12
12
11
11
10
9
7
6
5
3
21
Rapaport
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 11
How to Spot a Fake
如何識別真偽
Jewellery has been reproduced for centuries as a way of copying fashions, styles and trends of the past and today is no exception. Antique jewellery is becoming increasingly rare and it is important to have the knowledge to identify what is genuine and what is not. This Masterclass will show you how to establish the age of a jewel by examining the style, the setting, the use of metal and the combinations of gemstones. We will also show you how to date the age of diamonds and gemstones so you will know what to look for when establishing the age of vintage jewellery.
跟時裝, 流行風格和趨勢的周而復始定律一樣, 珠寶設計數百年來被重複仿製, 到 今天也不例外。 古董珠寶越來越稀有, 因此具備鑑定真偽的知識極其重要。 這課堂將通過理解珠寶的風格, 寶石鑲嵌工藝, 不同金屬的使用及各類寶石的組 合來判定珠寶的製造年份及鑽石和寶石的切割時期, 從而獲得驗證一件古董珠寶 的竅門。
12 |
BONHAMS
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 13
Understanding Buying and Selling at Auction
認識如何在拍賣場進行買賣
Buying and selling at auction is open, transparent, enjoyable, educational and often competitive! As such, this Masterclass will discuss the information available so you can make the right decisions with confidence. We will also consider how buyers and vendors are protected and we will discuss how to get the most out of selling at auction.
拍賣行買和賣的過程開放透明, 不但可以樂在其中,還可從中學習, 同時也能 感受競爭激烈的拍賣場面! 這課堂將提供我們現有的資訊, 讓您可以自信地在 拍賣場上進行買賣。我們也將討論買賣雙方權益及如何在拍賣行出售藏品以 達至最高成效。
14 |
BONHAMS
Certificate Of Completion Jewellery Masterclass Series ᚗ̈́ჵჴᝦካኝրЕ
This is to certify that ਬᙋځ
has completed and mastered the course !̏Ԇјѣᙯኝ
Director of Jewellery, Bonhams Asia 邦翰斯亞太區珠寶部主管
JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 15
Graeme Thompson Director of Jewellery, Asia
Graeme Thompson began his career in 2001 working for a leading antiques and period jewellers in Scotland. This is where he started his life-long passion and interest in precious stones and jewellery. In 2005 he moved to New York where he studied at the prestigious Gemmological Institute of America and qualified as a Gemmologist. While in New York, Graeme worked with the jewellery team at Bonhams and, in 2006, was recruited by the company and took up his role as its Jewellery Specialist in London. During this period, Graeme gained a wide knowledge of the global fine jewellery, diamond and coloured stone markets and became one of the Jewellery Department’s principal auctioneers. As Head of Department, he led the Bonhams Knightsbridge jewellery team to their most successful year. Four years later, Graeme set up his own business dealing exclusively in fine jewellery, diamonds and coloured stones, trading successfully with both wholesale and private clients from around the world. In August 2013 Graeme returned to Bonhams and was appointed Director of Jewellery for Bonhams Asia. Based permanently in Hong Kong, he is widely recognised as one of the world’s leading jewellery experts.
湯格禮
邦翰斯亞太區珠寶部主管 湯格禮自2001年投身於珠寶業，在蘇格蘭專門從事古董及現代珠寶首飾 工作，從此他便認定了自己對寶石和珠寶的無比熱情。2005年他移居紐 約，進入當地最著名的美國寶石學院 (Gemmological Institute of America) 修讀，並取得寶石鑑証專業資格。 留美期間，湯格森開始了與邦瀚斯珠寶首飾部門的密切合作，2006年他獲委 任為邦瀚斯倫敦珠寶首飾部門專家。在邦瀚斯任職期間，湯格禮掌握了有關 高級珠寶首飾、鑽石及有色寶石市場的豐富知識，並擔任珠寶首飾部門首席 拍賣專家。在他的領導下，邦瀚斯騎士橋區的珠寶首飾團隊取得了有史以來 的最佳成績。 2010年他成立自己的公司，專營高級珠寶首飾、鑽石及有色寶石的買賣業 務，包括與來自全球的批發及私人客戶交易。2013年8月，湯格森正式進駐 香港，獲委任為邦翰斯亞太區珠寶部主管。
16 |
BONHAMS
Bonhams (Hong Kong) Ltd Suite 2001, One Pacific Place Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港邦瀚斯藝術廊 金鐘太古廣場一期2001室 www.bonhams.com/hongkong +852 2918 4321 Enquiries Graeme Thompson G.G. 湯格禮 graeme.thompson@bonhams.com Anastasia Chao 趙式亞 anastasia.chao@bonhams.com Ellen Sin G.G. 冼淑賢 ellen.sin@bonhams.com Julia Liu G.G. 劉文璡 julia.liu@bonhams.com Kayley Cheung 張嘉盈 kayley.cheung@bonhams.com China Hongyu Yu 俞紅雨 hongyu.yu@bonhams.com Taiwan Summer Fang 方昱舲 summer.fang@bonhams.com Singapore Bernadette Rankine
WECHAT: BONHAMS JEWELLERY
bernadette.rankine@bonhams.com
Japan Akiko Tsuchida
akiko@bonhams.com
ID: BONHAMS JWL JEWELLERY MASTERCLASS SERIEs 珠寶及翡翠鑒賞課程系列
| 17
Bonhams Suite 2001 One Pacific Place Admiralty Hong Kong +852 2918 4321 +852 2918 4320 fax
香港邦瀚斯 金鐘太古廣場一期2001室
International Auctioneers and Valuers – bonhams.com