CELLAR Order by MAY 6, 2013
ALBERTA
NO. 217. ALL THE TASTY NEWS FOR OENOPHILES SINCE 1973.
Bordeaux and Beaujolais Merge!
New vintage to be called “Beaudeaux” Chance collision of 2 delivery trucks brings on discovery by Carmen Eyre
Which bottle style will winemakers choose? Will a new style emerge?
How Merlot Can You Go? Three Wines to Include at Your Next Beach Party by Margaux Saint-Julien
arcachon — Guests will raise their
glasses in your honour with the introduction of these wines at your next summer party: • Roquefortissime from Château Roquefort, p. 20 • Château Baby from the Héritiers Brisson, p. 21 • 20 Mille from J-P Janoueix, p. 27
bordeaux — Much to the surprise of oenophiles around the world, the winemakers of Bordeaux and Beaujolais have merged and created a “super vin”, as they have claimed it to be. Much like the discovery of Champagne, this wine was created by chance when two delivery trucks from the dueling regions collided, each bearing 100 cases of their region’s wine. A new wine was born: Beaudeaux, or Bodo for short. Given the increasing costs of producing, bottling and shipping
two varieties of wine, the winemakers have determined that this will create a new market for those who love both of these French wines, and will save money for consumers as well as for the industry. “It is fate. We could not have dreamed up a better solution to the decision that every wine drinker must make: Do I serve Beaujolais or Bordeaux?” says Franc Verdot, a local sommelier. The new wine will be available next fall. Vive le Beaudeaux!
Exclusive! Lilian Ladouys’ Poppin’ Corks! Prince Pirate and Baron de Brane battle for the affections of Lilian Ladouys by Joan Les Rivières
paris — “Que Syrah, Syrah” claims Baron de Brane confidently as we sit down at his Château Brane-Cantenac to talk about his part in the developing love triangle between himself, Prince Pirate and the charming Lilian Ladouys. De Brane, having brewed up something special, plans to win her over with his mellow aroma and masculine, cedar taste. We can’t wait to see how Prince Pirate’s spicy and savoury characteristics hold up! Who will the elegant Lilian Ladouys choose? See related stories on pages 23 and 25.
ORDERING MADE EASY! WHAT TO ORDER Read the description or use the profile chart for each wine to help you make your selections. The profile chart features a variety of symbols; consult the legend below to discover which symbols best suit your palate. THERE ARE FIVE WAYS TO ORDER • Order online. Go to opim.ca , sign in and select Show Details or Quick Order. • Email opim@opim.ca with your selection. • Call 1-800-361-9421. • Fax your order to 514-481-9699. • Mail your order in the envelope provided. THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO REDEEM YOUR COUPON From the same Cellar Offering… • Order a case of wine and choose your free case from the coupon wines listed on the back cover. OR • Order two cases of wine and receive $75 off your order. Restrictions: Coupons are non-transferrable and cannot be exchanged for cash. See coupon for full details Exclusions: Opimian Select and Founders’ Choice Programs. DELIVERY It takes time! The wines on this Cellar Offering are not yet in Canada. When the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution center, you will receive a Pick Up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick up location. You can follow the status of your shipment at opim.ca. Expected arrival at a Canadian Port is End of August, 2013. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board, and processing time required by each liquor board. LET US HELP YOU! Contact us at 1-800-361-9421 or email us at opim@opim.ca Hot off the presses! Read all about it! But…don’t always believe what your read! Our cover glances back to the nostalgic days when newspapers were a major source of information. Our “special edition” adds a little humour, and a twist only we could print. Quote this cover at your own risk, and take a moment to reflect on how times have changed in the four decades since Opimian published its first cellar offering.
CONDITIONS OF PURCHASE • Methods of Payment: Credit Card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or by cheque payable to Opimian. • Prices include all applicable federal and provincial mark ups and taxes, including GST/HST #105 233 217 and QST #1000640430. • A valid 2013 membership card is required to order and pick up. • Bottle prices are for reference only. All orders are by the case, with no minimum required. • Last day to order from this Cellar Offering: May 6, 2013.
LEGEND Members’ Choice
White
Aroma
Drink this year
Red
Taste
Enjoyable now; will develop 6 months-2 years
Serving temperature
Rosé
Opimian Suggests Wine meant for laying down
Ideal with
Sparkling
Bottle size Great concentration Heavy oak
Number of bottles in case Medium concentration
Light in body
Medium oak
Light oak
Less than 100 cases available Very limited quantities
Extremely limited quantities Limited quantities
Degrees of Maturity (M) (Scale of 1-10) 1 = lay down 10 = fully mature Degrees of Drinkability (D) (Scale of 1-10) 1 = needs time 10 = ready to drink
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OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217 209
Medal Winner
This symbol denotes wines most ordered by Opimian members. These are consistently popular with our membership at large.
Appeared in the C209 Select Cases (2012 Season)
To help novice members, this symbol is a guide to wines that are suitable for starting a cellar, and/or for drinking within two years of delivery.
Sweetness scale gms/litre 00 0-3 01 4-6 02 7 - 12 03 13 - 20 04 21 - 34 05 35 - 50 06 51 - 74 07 75 - 100 08 101 - 139 09 140 - 179 10 180 >
Examples Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, many reds Some New World varietals, some reds Champagne, Sparklers, Rosés, few reds Mosel, some Alsace, Anjou Semi-sweet Bordeaux, some sherry Kabinett German, Late Harvest, Alsace Spätlese German, Sweet Loire, Port, Dessert Muscat Auslese, Beerenauslese Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port Speciality sweet wines, Trockenbeerenauslese
CELLAR OFFERING 217 Beaujolais, Bergerac and Bordeaux
Opimian’s Wine Consultant Jane Masters MW is a graduate of Bordeaux’s famous Institut d’Oenologie and was elected to the Institute of Masters of Wine in 1997. Fluent in French and English, Jane is currently a member of the Council of the Institute of Masters of Wine, regularly speaks at industry seminars and is a Panel Chair for the International Wine Challenge.
We present a 100% French wine cellar offering, starting with interesting Beaujolais Crus. Gone are the days of light insipid Gamay; times have moved on, and so too have the producers. With many having come from a long history of vignerons, they have a renewed dynamism. They have re-discovered old vines and are changing our perception of Beaujolais. Also featured is a range of wines from South West France, predominantly Bordeaux from both the left and right bank, but also from our friends at Château Pique-Sègue in Bergerac. There are wines at every level, from simple everyday drinking to “petits Châteaux”, from the lesser appellations up to those from the most prestigious, including the Baron de Brane Margaux and Croix de Beaucaillou Saint-Julien. Both 2009 and 2010 are reputed vintages for ripe fruit and concentration with 2011 not very far behind. However, what stood out in tasting the wines for this cellar offering is just how well some of the good wines from the 2008 vintage are currently drinking, despite it being a more varied year. The best of these are delicious now and have potential to age too! Bernard Perrin p. 4
Château Pique-Sègue p. 9 Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire p. 19
Clos Cantenac p. 11
Château de Sours p. 13
SEMAV p. 22
Vinoma p. 16
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Bernard Perrin Ternand Négociant en vins Beaujolais has been living a renaissance. Gone are the days when the region prospered on Beaujolais Nouveau; wine drinkers have moved on, and so too have many of the smaller producers in the region. Younger generations have inherited estates, many of them with old vines that are 60, 80 even 100 years old. Keeping yields low, using longer macerations and attaining good concentration of fruit have all turned this into a dynamic and exciting region, one that Bernard Perrin knows intimately. From their home in Ternand, Bernard and Blandine work with like-minded producers across the Beaujolais Crus.
Beaujolais 4
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
The fortified town of Ternand is a depiction of medieval inspiration; with its lanes leading to the remains of the tower that dates back to the 12th century, passing old homes with mullioned windows, vaulted archways, finally leading us to the ruins of the Château facing the 12th century Roman church, where the magnificent crypt of Saint-Benoît is located.
BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >>
7082
1973 - En Bas La Cabane, 2012, AOC Beaujolais, Bernard Perrin Specially selected to commemorate Opimian’s 40th Anniversary
$14.50
$87.00
7083 $17.67
$106.00
7084 $12.67
$76.00
7085 $13.67
$82.00
While Kenneth Christie and John Sambrook were beavering away to create the Opimian Society, Bernard’s father was planting vines in Beaujolais on March 2, 1973. What better wine to commemorate Opimian’s 40th anniversary? With superb exposition, the vines are planted below the old “cabane” used to store vineyard tools and, no doubt, for the odd snooze during summer. With primary red fruits and a soft attack, it ends with gutsy tannins.
Crémant de Bourgogne, AOC Crémant de Bourgogne, 2010, Bernard Perrin Produced from 100% Chardonnay, it is a great palate cleanser after a long day of tasting. The grapes were grown on sandy clay and limestone soils. The rows are orientated to face west and north east, retaining good acidity in the grapes for quality sparkling wine. Produced according to the traditional method used for Champagne, second fermentation occurs in bottle and the wine is left in contact with its lees for 12 months prior to disgorgement. With fresh limes and melons on the nose, it has refreshing acidity and is more complex than both Prosecco and Cava; it makes a good alternative to Champagne.
Milhomme Vin de Pays de France Gamay, 2012, Bernard Perrin The particularly aggressive, gory-looking label depicts the local Ternand resistance to the invasion by Julius Caesar’s troops when 1000 men lost their lives. The wine itself is anything but aggressive. Produced from 100% Gamay it is bright cherry in colour. Red fruits and banana aromas lead to a light palate with more white peppery notes and savoury flavours.
Domaine de Milhomme, Cuvée Le Mûrier, 2012, AOC Beaujolais, Bernard Perrin With more weight and concentration than most AOC Beaujolais wines, the nose is restrained with aromas of violets, white pepper and spice. The soils at Domaine de Milhomme are based on granite and schist found mainly in the Crus and suited to Gamay. A soft attack on the palate is followed by juicy, sour cherry flavours and a fresh finish. The Perrin family has been long associated with Domaine de Milhomme and is mentioned in archives since the 16th century.
BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >>
Gamay Primary red fruits, banana Light structure, gutsy tannins 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D8 Spring lamb with fresh herbs and spring vegetables
Chardonnay Limes, melons Nice fruit, balanced crisp acidity, [02] 6° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Aperitif, shrimp tempura
Gamay Banana, red fruits White pepper, savoury 16° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Assorted charcuterie with goat cheese
Gamay Violets, white and grey pepper Sour cherry, juicy acidity 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Broiled salmon with roasted tomato sauce
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During the 2012 hand-harvest on the hills of Domaine de Milhomme, great care was taken by those who understand what is required to obtain optimum quality.
7086 $15.50
$93.00
7087 $14.83
$89.00
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Domaine de Milhomme, Vigne Centenaire, 2011, AOC Beaujolais As the vineyards of France were slowly devastated by the Phylloxera louse in the late 19th century, people searched for a cure. Bernard’s great-grandfather was one of the first vignerons to take the advice of Victor Pulliat and re-plant his vineyard in 1887 on grafted rootstocks. Using Viala rootstock suitable only for limestone free soils, the vines produce low yields and small berries. The 2011 Vigne Centenaire is still closed with violets and dark fruit aromas, and a structured savoury palate.
Domaine de Thulon, AOC Beaujolais-Villages, 2012, Carine, Laurent Jambon Brother and sister duo, Carine and Laurent, follow the tradition of their ancestors who have been cultivating vines throughout the generations since the 17th century. In 1987, the family purchased the farm and outbuildings of the 15th century Château de Thulon and continues to make wines here. The family owns 14.4 hectares in four communes. Laurent, ever the innovator, has adopted ideas to re-invigorate Beaujolais wines. The 7.45 hectares of Beaujolais-Villages vineyards, close to Lantignié, share similar terroir to Régnié; the wines are vinified in a traditional way, in concrete tanks. The 2012 was quite closed at the time of tasting, but had good balance and weight on the palate, with a sour cherry twist on the finish.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Gamay Violets, dark fruits Savoury, structured 16-18° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Ribs with black cherry barbecue sauce
Gamay Closed, red fruit Medium-bodied, cherry twist on the finish 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D8 Chicken liver pâté
BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >>
7088 $16.50
$99.00
7089 $16.17
$97.00
7090 $16.17
$97.00
7091 $16.17
$97.00
Clos de Haute Combe, AOC Juliénas, 2012, Vincent Audras Clos de Haute Combe sits at the top of the hill looking down over the surrounding countryside. From here, Vincent Audras can keep an eye on all that is going on in the village below as his wines mature in the vaulted cellar beneath him. His Juliénas always has a characteristic white pepper aroma and the 2012 is no exception. It has intense spicy white and grey pepper flavours on the palate. This year, the wine is more savoury with a soft body.
Domaine de la Roche Briday, AOC Morgon, 2012, Thomas Collonge The second largest of the Beaujolais Cru, the soils are formed from the degradation of crumbly crystalline pyrite rocks rich in iron oxides and manganese, giving it a reddish ochre colour of clay. Planted 50 years ago, La Roche Briday has nine hectares in this appellation with a south eastern exposure. Winemaker Thomas Collonge is the 7th generation to vinify here. He uses Burgundian techniques with long maceration on skins and subsequent ageing in tank and barrel. The 2012 has mellow, elegant fruit and floral aromas. On the palate it is light in structure with sour cherry flavours and balanced acidity.
Domaine Champagnon, AOC Chénas, 2012, Patrick Champagnon Chénas is the smallest of the 10 Beaujolais Crus, with only 240 hectares of vineyards surrounding the wooded hill that was once all oak forest facing north-east, east and south. Patrick Champagnon cultivates nine hectares aged between 20 and 80 years, all free-standing bush vines. The grapes were picked by hand and full bunches vinified for 8 to 12 days before ageing in oak vats for six months. The 2012 Chénas has intense white pepper aromas combined with red fruit. Soft on the palate, it has a long, spicy flavour.
Domaine Desmures, AOC Chiroubles, 2012, AnneMarie and Armand Desmures This elegant wine is made by Anne-Marie and Armand Desmures, from their seven hectare vineyard on slopes surrounding the pretty village of Chiroubles. The southeast facing granite slopes look out across the Saône plain and the backdrop of the Alps. This is the highest cru in Beaujolais, at an altitude of 400 to 480 metres, but the exposure and shelter from the wind ensure moderate temperatures to fully ripen the grapes. Traditional vinification has produced a wine that is soft and easy on the palate, with red fruit and pear drops, and nicely balanced acidity.
BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN >>
Gamay White and grey pepper Savoury, pepper flavours 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Stir-fried beef in black bean sauce
Gamay Cherries, floral Bitter cherry, balanced acidity 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Sweet and spicy glazed ham
Gamay White pepper, red fruit Spices, smooth 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Warm mushroom salad with bacon vinaigrette
Gamay Primary red fruits Soft and easy, balanced acidity 16° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Grilled andouillette sausage
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7092 $16.67
$100.00
7093 $16.67
$100.00
7094 $16.17
$97.00
Domaine de la Sionnière, AOC Moulin à Vent, 2012, Estelle and Thomas Patenôtre In true Moulin à Vent style, the 2012 is muscular with good structure and will require some time to soften and open up. When tasted, the wine was still closed on the nose with savoury flavours on the palate. The soil in Moulin à Vent is granite rich in iron and manganese. The Domaine de la Sionnière has 13 hectares planted on south/south-east facing slopes with vines at an average age of 60 years. The estate was created by Thomas’ great-great-grandfather in the 19th century and has been expanded in recent years by Thomas and his wife Estelle. Using traditional vinification with long maceration in tank, the wine was subsequently aged in oak.
Domaine de Montangeron, AOC Fleurie, 2012, Frédéric Montangeron Frédéric and Muriel Montangeron have eight hectares in Fleurie on pink crystalline, granite sandy soils. The Domaine de Montangeron 2012 has intense cassis and smoky aromas rather than the red fruits and floral notes of the 2010. Soft on the attack, it has chewy tannins giving it structure and depth. Ready for drinking, more so than the Domaine de la Sionnière Moulin à Vent, it will also benefit from ageing.
Domaine Dit Barron, AOC Brouilly, 2012, Gilles Aujogues Gilles Aujogues has re-invented the definition of Beaujolais. He and his wife Muriel tend to 11 hectares of vines in Brouilly. Their focus is to limit yields, producing wines that are deep in colour, and restrained on the nose with savoury, black olive aromas. Structured with a velvety texture, violets and black fruits come through on the palate. Brouilly, the largest of the ten crus, can be variable to say the least, but this is one of the top estates.
Gamay Closed Savoury, structured 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D7 Veal roast with Chanterelle mushroom sauce
Gamay Cassis, smoky Structured , fresh blackcurrant 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Pork tenderloin with cassis and currants
Gamay Black olives, savoury Violets, black fruits 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Oxtail risotto A peaceful haven at Clos de Haute Combe: this beautiful garden with fig trees overlooking the vineyards is surrounded by stone walls. The tiny cabin is used to house the tools of the trade.
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OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
BEAUJOLAIS BERNARD PERRIN
Bergerac
Château Pique-Sègue Bergerac Philip & Marianne Mallard Across the departmental boundary from Gironde into Dordogne lies the Bergerac appellation. This area was made famous by the 19th century French classic Cyrano de Bergerac based on a true character. In terroir terms Bergerac is a continuation of the limestone and Fronsadais Molasse of Bordeaux’s right bank, but the climate tends to be more extreme. In February 2012, temperatures dropped to -19˚C at Château PiqueSègue, -22˚C when the wind chill factor was taken into account. Philip and Marianne Mallard have been owners of the 260 hectare estate since the early 1990s. My first visit was in 1992 and it was a pleasure to re-visit it 20 years later, in October 2012.
Philip, Marianne and Doughnut on the Château grounds, with a view towards the estate valley and beside them a 520 year old olive tree.
BERGERAC Château Pique-Sègue >>
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7095 $14.83
$89.00
7096 $14.83
$89.00
Château Pique-Sègue, 2012, AOC Montravel The Montravel appellation abuts that of the Côtes de Castillon. Produced from a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle, the wine is bright in colour. Restrained fruits mingle with honey aromas, while on the palate it has a seductive Galia melon flavour and long finish. Marianne and Philip have completely re-structured the 60 hectares of vineyards planted on white clay limestone soils over a subsoil rich in tuff.
Château Pique-Sègue, 2011, AOC Bergerac A blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2011 Château Pique-Sègue has leafy blackcurrant aromas. The palate is quite firm, with obvious acidity and fine-grained tannins, giving it depth and structure. The grapes were fermented and temperatures subsequently maintained at 30˚C during maceration to extract full tannins and colour.
Sauvignon, Semillon, Muscadelle Honey, white fruits Galia melon, citrus, [00] 6° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Speckled trout baked with lime slices and red onion
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Leafy, blackcurrant Firm, fine tannins 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Walnut-encrusted roast pork with rosemary
7097 $21.50
$129.00
Terre de Pique-Sègue, Anima Vitis, 2007, AOC Montravel The Terre de Pique-Sègue 2007 is starting to show fine development and a nose with spicy earthy fruits. Mediumbodied with mellow fruit flavours, it has a bitter cherry finish and grainy tannins. Primarily Merlot with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon planted at high density, the wine was aged for 15 months in French oak barrels.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Spices, earthy fruits Mellow, grainy tannins 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Pan-fried rabbit with prunes
Taken in autumn, the family home is located within one of the Pique-Sègue vineyards planted in the valley above the lake.
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OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
BERGERAC Château Pique-Sègue
Bordeaux
Clos Cantenac Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Never one to put his feet up, a trait many of our favourite producers seem to share, Martin Krajewski has grand plans for Clos Cantenac. On our visit in October 2012 he shared his vision for the new winery. Planning permission should be granted soon, and work will then be underway, so that the new winery installation will be in place for the harvest in 2013 – fingers crossed!
At first light in late September, these old Merlot vines, situated just outside the Clos Cantenac cellar, are ready for harvest.
BORDEAUX CLOS CANTENAC>>
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7098 $41.83
$251.00
7099 $26.33
$158.00
Clos Cantenac, 2011, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Merlot
2011 was characterized as the earliest bud-break on record throughout the Bordeaux region, and indeed most of France. Warm months of April and May contributed to the advance and dry conditions became the concern. Fortunately, 160mm of rain in July and August helped quench the thirst of the parched vines. The muscular, structured 100% Merlot Clos Cantenac needs time. Intensely coloured, it has smoky, toast and cedary notes, and is concentrated and dense with marked acidity. Coming from a 1.3 hectare plot harvested on September 2nd, after fermentation the wine was matured in French oak for 18 months, 40% new, 60% second fill.
Smoky, toast, cedar
Petit Cantenac, 2011, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Intense in colour, black cherries and vanilla aromas mingle on the nose. Produced from 2.2 hectares, with 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, all the grapes were picked by hand on September 13th and 14th. Nice cherry flavours on the palate and medium body make this wine lighter and more approachable for earlier drinking than the Clos Cantenac. Although aged for 18 months in French oak, 30% new, 70% second fill, this does not dominate.
Black cherries, vanilla
Concentrated, muscular 18° C 2013-2020, M6 D7 Old-fashioned raised game pie
Medium-bodied, red cherries 18° C 2013-2017, M7 D8 Roast grouse with blackberries and port wine jus The morning’s work completed, in the winery the fruit rests patiently in small baskets waiting for the team to return from lunch.
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OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
BORDEAUX CLOS CANTENAC
Château de Sours Martin Krajewski
As well as being passionate about Château de Sours, Martin is also a great Opimian supporter. I was fortunate to be at Château de Sours not only during the harvest in 2012, but also in January 2013. During this period, Martin offered me the use of the Château to set up and taste all the wines featuring in this selection; a great opportunity to taste, compare and contrast hundreds of wines from across the region. My only regret is that Ken Christie MW, who was due to be there also, was unable to join us.
Perfectly aged vintages of La Source red and white, ready to be enjoyed, lying in the Château de Sours “Salle de Vente”, presented in their beautiful wooden cases.
BORDEAUX Château de Sours >>
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7100 $12.17
$146.00
7101 $12.17
$146.00
7102 $12.17
$146.00
7103 $17.33
$104.00
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Richemont du Château de Sours Blanc, 2012, AOC Bordeaux
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
This wine has a pure restrained style with flinty fruits and a mineral finish. After a topsy-turvy spring, and start to summer with late bud-break and changeable weather during flowering, Valérie and Martin were relieved when fine weather set in at the end of June and onwards. The grapes were hand-picked in the early morning at the beginning of September. 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon grapes were carefully protected from any oxidation prior to being pressed using nitrogen gas. The pressed juice was left to settle naturally and then fermented to dryness in stainless steel tanks at low temperature.
Restrained, flinty fruits
Richemont du Château de Sours, 2012, AOC Bordeaux Rosé
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
In the line-up of rosé wines tasted for this cellar offering the Richemont du Château de Sours Rosé stood out. Valérie and her team really have mastered the art of fine rosé. Pale in colour, the wine has nice fruit, good balance and a crisp, fresh finish. (Not for discussion now, but we also took the opportunity to compare Château de Sours and La Source rosés against some of the most expensive rosés in the world. Needless to say they showed extremely well).
Herbal, red fruits
Richemont du Château de Sours Rouge, 2011, AOC Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc
Made using fruit from some of the younger vines on the estate, the final wine is a blend of 65% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Harvest took place under perfect conditions in mid-September. After a short cold soak, the grapes were fermented and subsequently aged for 18 months, 40% in second and third fill barrels and 60% in tank. The wine has taken on quite an intense, spicy chocolate and toasty oak characteristic. Soft and supple, it is very approachable with the potential to age as the oak integrates more fully.
Spicy, coffee
Château de Sours Blanc, 2012, AOC Bordeaux The Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes used for the Château de Sours Blanc come from four hectares of older vines. These were picked in early September under ideal conditions. After pressing, the juice was fermented in oak barrels, 20% new, 30% second year fill and 50% third year fill, imparting a touch of vanilla and spice to complement the floral gooseberry flavours and long, fresh lime aftertaste.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Fresh fruits, mineral finish, [00] 6° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Aperitif, poached salmon
Balanced, refreshing fruits, crisp finish, [00] 6° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Smoked trout casse-croûte
Vanilla, toasty oak, dark fruits 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Pan-seared veal medallions with French Morels
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Floral, gooseberry Soft, broad palate, vanilla, lime finish, [00] 8° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Dover sole à la Meunière
BORDEAUX Château de Sours >>
Through the gates in late spring, Château de Sours is resplendent as it bathes in the glorious early morning sunshine.
7104 $17.83
$107.00
7105 $29.17
$175.00
7106 $32.17
$193.00
Château de Sours Rouge, 2011, AOC Bordeaux A solid wine with firm acidity, characteristic of fruit from vines cultivated on the limestone plateau, it needs time to mellow. The blend is made up of 85% Merlot bringing intense leafy herbal notes, 10% Petit Verdot providing backbone and firm acidity and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, adding to the tannic structure and longevity. The wine matured for 13 months in oak barrels, 30% new, and 70% second and third fill. Quite closed at the moment, it has complex savoury cedary notes and will benefit from several years before drinking.
La Source du Château de Sours Blanc, 2011, AOC Bordeaux This white is produced from a tiny Sauvignon Blanc plot of 1.8 hectares on the limestone plateau and 0.75 hectares of 50 year old Semillon. All the grapes were hand-picked at the end of August and gently pressed in the pneumatic press. The juice was fermented in oak barrels, 50% new, 50% two years old, offering a really elegant wine with poise and finesse.
La Source du Château de Sours Rouge, 2011, AOC Bordeaux This 100% Merlot is produced from the best blocks. Intense in colour, it has a cedary and blackcurrant nose with other crushed black fruits. It is complex and powerful, with juicy acidity and a mineral finish. The grapes were hand-picked in mid-September and gently crushed, leaving the skins to macerate for three weeks with regular punching down of the cap. The wine was matured in 40% new French oak and 60% one year old barrels. With great potential to age, the soft, fleshy nature of the Merlot makes it quite approachable already.
BORDEAUX Château de Sours
Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon Herbal, pencil lead, savoury Firm acidity and tannins 18° C 2013-2020, M6 D7 Lentils and lamb moussaka
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Elegant, gooseberry, vanilla Medium-bodied, long finish, [00] 6° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Sautéed queen scallops with chorizo on asparagus
Merlot Blackcurrants, cedar Juicy black fruits, mineral finish 18° C 2013-2020, M6 D8 Roasted Châteaubriand with pan jus
ALBERTA
15
September 15th, 2012, the first day of the Sauvignon Blanc harvest. Michel Baucé looks on at the results of the entire year’s hard work. The vineyard is located at 110M on the hilltop of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande.
Michel Baucé Vinoma Angelita & Based close to Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, Michel and Angelita Baucé are wine producers and négociants. Their own estate, which is farmed Pineuilh, Gironde both organically, dates back to the 18th century with some of the vines aged 100 years. From this eastern corner of the Gironde they include a range of wines from other small producers.
7110
Château Moulin de Launay, 2012, AOC Entre-DeuxMers, Claude & Bernard Greffier
7108
Free case CHOICE for this Cellar Offering
$11.00
$132.00
COUPON
16
The vast region that is Entre-Deux-Mers lies between two rivers, Dordogne and Garonne, which flow into the Gironde estuary. The countryside is green and full of history, yet modest in style; the antithesis of the grand bourgeois Château of the Médoc. Château Moulin de Launay, located in the village of Soussac, makes only white wines from its 75 hectares of vines. Produced from the three varieties typical to the region, the 2012 is a blend of 45% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle. The wine is light and fruity, and is perfect for summer drinking.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle Pear drops, gooseberry Elegant, fresh, nice balance, [00] 6° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Steamed mussels and oysters in a saffron broth
BORDEAUX VINOMA >>
7111 $19.83
$119.00
7112 $18.33
$110.00
7113 7109 $13.67
$82.00 COUPON
7114 $13.67
$82.00
Château La Fleur des Pins, 2012, AOC Graves, S.C.E. Lamothe
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
Pale in colour, this is a classic Graves style. It is understated, charming and complex. Aromas of passion fruit, grapefruit and vanilla complement one another with great integration of oak. Château La Fleur des Pins is an old property which was purchased by the Lamothe family in 1987, and is currently run by brothers Patrick and Hervé. A little over five hectares of vines, with an average age of 50 years, are located in the commune of Pujols-sur-Ciron, in the heart of the Sauternes region. The soils are a thin layer of clay and limestone over rock. After picking, the grapes were left in contact with skins for 10 hours before pressing. The juice was fermented in oak, 50% new, and left on lees with regular stirring for nine months.
Passion fruit, grapefruit, vanilla
Château Fontebride, 2010, AOC Sauternes, S.C.E. Château Haut-Bergeron
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris
With six hectares in the commune of Bommes, this is another Lamothe family vineyard managed by Patrick and Hervé. The vineyards lie adjacent to their Haut-Bergeron property offered last year. Here is a testament to their expertise in winemaking of both dry and sweet wines, and the skilled use of oak to enhance rather than dominate the wine. The 2010 Fontebride has ginger, pears and fresh mushrooms on the nose; it is delicate with good fruit and a long finish. I met Patrick and his wife Carole in October 2012 and was impressed then, even more so now.
Pears, ginger
Spice, vanilla, [00] 6° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Asian-style prawn ravioli
Delicate, cooked white fruits, lingering finish, [08] 8° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Smoked duck breast terrine, Bleu d’Auvergne
Château Les Bois Noirs, 2012, AOC Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Free case CHOICE for this Cellar Offering
Earthy fruits
Angelita and Michel purchased, and have been making wine at Château Les Bois Noirs, since 2003. Situated 3.5 kilometres south of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, where the Bordeaux appellation meets the boundary with Bergerac, the estate sits on steep south-facing slopes along the Dordogne River. These well-drained slopes were replanted 40 years ago, but wine has been made at Les Bois Noirs since the 18th century. The spring of 2012 brought humidity and the threat of downy mildew, and a dry August brought the threat of powdery mildew. This lead to a reduction in yields of about 30%, so care and attention in the vineyard was as vital as ever.
Château Haut Nivelle, Tradition, 2011, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, Vignobles Le Pottier A simple wine brimming with blackberries and vanilla, Château Haut Nivelle’s Bordeaux Supérieur vineyards are located east of the Saint-Émilion appellation. The 2011 was produced from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep in colour, it is concentrated with dark fruit flavours and intense spicy oak leading to a bitter cherry finish.
BORDEAUX VINOMA >>
Spice, chewy firm tannins 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D8 Beef and vegetable ragout
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Blackberries, vanilla Grainy texture, spicy oak 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Roasted guinea fowl breast with braised fennel and black olives
ALBERTA
17
7115
$14.83
$89.00
7116 $18.50
$111.00
7117 $18.50
$111.00
7118 $22.00
$132.00
18
Château Les Billauds, Cuvée Spéciale, 2009, AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, S.C.E.A. Vignobles Plisson Château Les Billauds has been in Jean-Claude Plisson’s family for over five generations. Comprising 14 hectares, 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon are planted with south east and south west exposure, capturing every last ray of the sun. Traditional vinification takes place over three weeks with regular pump-overs. The wine has an herbal, leafy characteristic combined with coffee, and a soft velvety texture, making it a delightful glass for early consumption.
Château Fongaban, 2010, AOC Puisseguin SaintÉmilion, S.A.R.L. de Fongaban Pierre Taïx comes from a long line of vignerons, but since taking over responsibility for running the family estates of Châteaux Fongaban and Rigaud, he has been making his mark and winning acclaim. Fongaban, in the satellite of Puisseguin, is one of the top estates. 7.34 hectares are planted on the clay limestone plateau and chalky slopes. The 2010 is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, showing restraint at the moment, but there are appealing plummy red fruits and cherries combined with notes of cedar wood. On the palate, it is soft and approachable, with bitter cherries and a liquorice finish.
Château Rigaud, 2011, AOC Puisseguin SaintÉmilion, Pierre Taïx This stunning wine from Pierre Taïx punches well above its weight. A dense purple colour, mellow black cherries, vanilla, cigar box and smoke all give it immediate appeal. On the palate it is elegant with structure. Flavours of griottes lead to a good mid-palate weight. Merlot and Cabernet Franc are planted on 8.2 hectares with debudding, leaf-pulling and strict grape selection carried out. After fermentation and malolactic the wine was aged in French oak, 50% new, 50% second fill. Delicious now, it has staying power and will become more complex.
Château Corbin, Vieilles Vignes, 2009, AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion Purchased in 1948 by François Rambeaud’s grandfather, Château Corbin is one of the oldest properties in MontagneSaint-Émilion. Built at the beginning of the 17th century by Michel Boyreau, Seigneur of Corbin, it houses two original marble columns from the home of Roman poet Ausonius from the 4th century AD. The estate consists of 23 hectares, with a three hectare parcel of 50 year old Merlot vines which are harvested and vinified separately to produce the Vieilles Vignes. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 12 months and this dominates a little at the moment, bringing toasty chocolate and mocha components. This will mellow with a little more time and integrate with the ripe cherries and succulent fruits on the palate.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Leafy, coffee Soft, velvety texture 18° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Traditional roast beef
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Plums, red fruits, cherries, cedar Bitter cherries, liquorice finish 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Stuffed lamb shoulder with garlic sauce
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Black cherries, vanilla, smoke, cedar Elegant structure, griottes 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Braised rabbit with bacon-sage dumplings
Merlot Chocolate, mocha, toast Cherries, succulent fruits, toasty, chocolate 18° C 2013 -2018, M6 D8 Braised venison with chocolate sauce
BORDEAUX VINOMA
Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire
Bill Blatch, founder of Vintex, officially retired from the business last year and is now busy writing a book; memoirs and tasting notes of over 30 years in Bordeaux. Meanwhile, back at the Vintex office, the team of Patrice Ricard and Stephen Lemaitre continues to source “petits Châteaux” offering great value for money.
Centuries ago, it was the fashion to name one’s estate after one’s wife or daughter’s nickname. Franck Brisson believes that Château Baby’s name derives from Elisabeth, which would have been shortened to Babette, or Babé or Baby!
7119
Château La Picherie, 2010, AOC Montagne-SaintÉmilion, Rodolphe Guimberteau Specially selected to commemorate Opimian’s 40th Anniversary
$18.83
$113.00
This small estate of only 3.5 hectares in Montagne-SaintÉmilion is owned and managed by Rodolphe Guimberteau. Located on deep clay and limestone soil, the vines are an average age of 30 years. Merlot is finely balanced with 20% Cabernet Franc providing finesse and structure. After a cold maceration at 10˚C for two to three days, the wine was fermented between 25˚C and 27˚C for over three weeks. Chocolate and spicy aromas, resulting from 12 months ageing in French oak barrels, combine with the soft ripe fruits, finely textured tannins and depth. It is a fitting wine to commemorate Opimian’s 40th anniversary.
BORDEAUX Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire >>
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Chocolate, spice, fruits Fine texture, depth 18° C 2013-2020, M6 D8 Roast Cornish hens seasoned with sage, with slices of bacon and chopped shallots
ALBERTA
19
7120 $15.67
$94.00
7121 $16.33
$98.00
7122 $22.00
$132.00
20
Château Roquefort, Sauvignon-Semillon, 2012, AOC Bordeaux Blanc The 60 hectare estate at Lugasson is ably managed by Sam Mestre and was completely refurbished under the auspices of the Bellanger family since its purchase in the 1970s. This historic site has evidence of human civilization dating back to 4000 BC. Vines thrive on the soft crumbly limestone soils. After picking, the grapes underwent skin contact before pressing. The wine has delicious fresh green apple and gooseberry aromas. It is balanced with soft fruits, Galia melon flavours, and good acidity.
Château Roquefort, Merlot-Cabernet, 2010, AOC Bordeaux Succulent red and black cherry aromas dominate in this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Vines flourish on the vast plateau with calcareous subsoil bordered by streams; Engranne on the west and Petite Engranne on the east. Beneath the vineyards lie an extensive quarry and several underground water sources. After prefermentation maceration, the wine was fermented in tank. Approximately two thirds of the blend was aged in French (80%) and American (20%) oak barrels for 12 months.
Roquefortissime, 2008, Château Roquefort, Merlot, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur The top cuvée from Château Roquefort is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Complex, with an intense mellow bouquet of black cherries, vanilla, smoke and spice, it is balanced with firm acidity and minerality. Careful work in the vineyards is carried out to ensure the grapes reach full maturity. Thinning-out and greenharvest was done in late July to drop bunches of grapes, allowing the vine to focus its energy on those remaining. The grapes were harvested by hand. After fermentation in tank, the wine underwent malolactic in new Allier oak barrels followed by ageing for 12 months.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Green apples, gooseberries Galia melon, gooseberries, [00] 10° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Thai shrimp
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Black and red cherries Tight palate, needs to open up 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Slow-braised lamb shank with olive oil mash
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Complex, mellow Concentrated, firm acidity 18° C 2013-2019, M6 D8 Boeuf bourguignon
Cultivated on calcareous clay and gravelly soils, the average age of the Merlot vines at Château Baby is 25 years.
BORDEAUX Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire >>
7123 $13.00
$78.00
Château du Pin, 2010, AOC Bordeaux, SCEA Vignobles J.-M Constans Great value for money from this husband and wife team, Château du Pin has been in Jean-Marie Constans’ family since 1880. As he tends the vines, Claudette nurtures the wines, aided by one of their sons Guillaume. The estate is modest, but the 2010 is very approachable, with plummy, leafy fruits and a mellow quality; it is great for early drinking.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Plums, leafy Soft, mellow 18° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Rosemary pork tenderloin
7124 $13.33
$80.00
7125 $15.00
$90.00
7126 $15.50
$93.00
Château Baby, Cuvée du Moulin, 2010, AOC Bordeaux, Héritiers Brisson The Château Baby 2010, Cuvée du Moulin, surpasses expectations. Located in the far north eastern corner of the Bordeaux appellation, the estate comprises 12.5 hectares and is located on both sides of the Dordogne River. Young winemaker Pascal Colle has produced a 100% Merlot with intense blackcurrant, incense and pine aromas. The wine was part-aged in barrel and has good concentration with a bitter chocolate finish.
Château Jouanin, 2010, AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, S.A.R.L. de Fongaban Château Jouanin lies in Monbadon, in the Côtes de Castillon, on the eastern border of Puisseguin SaintÉmilion. A blend of 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc, the grapes were cultivated on clay limestone soils. Budthinning, double leaf removal and strict grape selection at picking are all carried out to produce a concentrated wine fermented in stainless steel and traditional concrete vats. The wine was aged 10% in new French oak barrels, 30% in one year old, 30% in two year old and 30% in tank, giving it an intense spicy oak characteristic.
Château Vieux Dominique, réserve, 2011, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur From the Grégoire family, owners of Vintex, Château Vieux Dominique lies north of Libourne towards the boundary of the Bordeaux appellation. It was purchased by Cyrille Grégoire in 1996. The vineyard covers 26 hectares on clay limestone soils with silt and blue clay subsoil. Working with consultant Claude Gros, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes undergo a hot maceration before fermentation at low temperature.
BORDEAUX Vintex et Les Vignobles Grégoire
Merlot Spicy, incense, blackcurrant Dark fruits, bitter chocolate 18° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Entrecôte Marchand de Vin
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Blackcurrant, coffee Medium-bodied, spicy finish 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Daube Provençale, Cantal
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Cassis, vanilla Elegant, fresh cassis 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Duck confit
ALBERTA
21
This French oak barrel comes from the Taransaud cooperage. At Château La Pointe the wine is aged exclusively in barrel.
SEMAV The Johnston Family
22
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
With two and a half centuries of history in the Bordeaux wine trade, the Johnston family is a well-established name in Bordeaux. Based from their office on the Cours du Médoc, the three brothers, Denis, Archibald and Ivanhoé are now assisted by the latest generation, Thomas Johnston. Their long history, family ties, and passion for fine wines means that they know anyone who is anyone in the Bordeaux wine community.
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
7128 $9.42
$113.00
Prince Pirate Blanc, Vin Blanc de France A simple white wine for everyday drinking, it is produced from a blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc from the South West of France, with a dash of Chardonnay. Prince Pirate, the name created by Ken Christie and Nathaniel Johnston, has been an Opimian favourite since the early 1970s. It is always a wine which reflects its provenance from the South West of France.
Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay Pear drops, grapefruit Fresh, citrus finish, [00] 6° C 2013-2014, M9 D9 Aperitif, grilled shrimp and scallops with lemon and butter
7129 $9.08
Prince Pirate Rouge, Cuvée le 40ème, Vin Rouge de France
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Produced from 95% Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Prince Pirate Rouge has red fruit and spice aromas. Suitable for everyday drinking, it has some oomph to it, with chewy savoury flavours.
Savoury, chewy tannins
Red fruits, spice
18° C 2013-2014, M9 D9
$109.00
Pasta with cherry tomatoes and pancetta
7130
The Opimian Society’s Claret, AOC Bordeaux
$10.58
Produced from a blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the Opimian Society’s Claret is a quaffable luncheon claret with traditional leafy aromas and a soft mellow palate. It is perfect for drinking now.
$127.00
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Leafy, herbal Medium-bodied, soft finish 18° C 2013-2015, M8 D9 Toulouse sausage with haricot beans
Left Bank
7131 $11.50
$138.00
Château Maillard, 2010, AOC Graves It is much more classy and flavoursome than the price suggests! This Graves estate, located at the southern end of the appellation in Mazères, has been built up by owner Bruno David. Starting with 10 hectares in the early 70s, the estate now comprises 58 hectares planted with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 80% dedicated to Merlot. As the appellation suggests, the soil contains 70% gravel and 30% topsoil. Intense mellow aromas of cassis, vanilla and spice lead to a soft, refined palate with black fruit flavours and a long finish.
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Cassis, vanilla, spice Refined, long finish 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Grilled flank steak marinated in cilantro, garlic and chili flakes
ALBERTA
23
Château Lilian Ladouys has typical Saint-Estèphe gravel, sand, clay and limestone terroir with the vines averaging 40 years of age.
7132 $18.17
$109.00
7133 $28.67
$172.00
24
Château Tour Salvet, 2010, AOC Haut-Médoc, S.C.E.A. des Vignobles Kopp
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
Château Tour Salvet is located in the Haut-Médoc on the left bank of the Gironde estuary, close to Margaux. It is produced from a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. Each variety was picked separately, starting with the earlier ripening Merlot on September 27th and ending on October 17th with Cabernet Sauvignon. After traditional fermentation and maceration, half the wine was aged in French and American oak barrels, contributing spicy chocolate and cigar box flavours, and half in tank for 10 months. Perfect now, it has powdery tannins and a long, bitter cherry finish.
Plums, chocolate, cigar box
Château Citran, 2009, AOC Haut-Médoc Another Haut-Médoc property close to the border with the Margaux appellation in the commune of Avensan, this 94 hectare estate is one of the oldest “seigneuries” in the Médoc. Yet another Château with a chequered history, it is currently owned by the Merlaut-Villars family, a well-known name in the Médoc. The 2009 is dense in colour with ripe fruits and mellow aromas. Concentrated on the palate, it has fine tannins with complexity, depth and structure. A blend of 55% Merlot, 42.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2.5% Cabernet Franc, the wine was aged in French oak barrels, 35% new. The climate was generous in 2009 with flowering from June 8th to 16th. Lots of sunshine and warmth throughout August and into September, contributed to the resulting rich and ripe, concentrated wines.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Fruit, bitter cherry finish 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Veal ragout with cèpes and sage
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Mellow, ripe fruits Concentrated, complex 18° C 2013-2019, M6 D8 Calf’s liver with parsley, garlic and fried potatoes
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
7134 $35.50
$213.00
7135 $26.50
$159.00
7136 $36.67
$220.00
7137 $52.67
$316.00
Baron de Brane, 2010, AOC Margaux, Henri Lurton The classified growth of Château Brane-Cantenac possesses one of the finest terroirs in the Margaux appellation with typical deep gravelly soils. After the warm dry season and good harvest in 2009, autumn had a higher than normal amount of rainfall, which replenished water reserves. A cold winter led to delayed bud-break with cool weather at flowering, creating issues with the Merlot. Summer was not overly hot, but was dry, leading to another year of perfect ripeness and ideal conditions at picking time. 2010 was also the first vintage with a new cellar installation allowing minimal handling and crushing of berries from field to tank, and an optical sorting machine providing higher quality sorting. The second wine, Baron de Brane, is produced from the more approachable plots and is matured in the same way as the Grand Vin. It is currently showing mellow fruits on the nose. Medium-bodied with blackcurrant appeal, it is structured with a powdery, silky texture and long bitter cherry finish. Produced from a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 0.5% Carmenère, the wine was aged for 12 months in oak, 20% new.
Château Lilian Ladouys, 2008, AOC Saint-Estèphe Despite being considered as a hit or miss vintage, many of the 2008 wines tasted during the selection of the wines for this cellar offering showed really well; this is one of my top-scoring wines. The 2008s, which are drinking nicely now, also have the potential to develop. This wine is deep ruby in colour with nice coffee aromas. Elegant in structure, it has fine tannins ending on notes of red cherries. This historic estate is located close to Lafon-Rochet and Cos d’Estournel. It has a history of good times and bad, but the Cru Bourgeois Supérieur is definitely on the up.
Hortevie, 2010, AOC Saint-Julien, J-E Borie SA By Médoc standards the Saint-Julien Cru Bourgeois estate of Château Hortevie, with a mere 3.5 hectares, is miniscule. Although, as they say, size isn’t everything! Owned by Bruno Borie and made by his team at DucruBeaucaillou, the estate produces fine wines. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the nose has aromas of liquorice, plums and chocolate. On the palate fresh cherry flavours combine with spices and a long lingering bitter cherry aftertaste. It has all the hallmarks of fine Saint-Julien, but needs a little time to fully express itself. The wine was aged in oak, 20% new, for 12 months.
Croix de Beaucaillou, 2008, AOC Saint-Julien, Jean-Eugène Borie The second wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou comes from a specific plot on the Beychevelle plateau, close to Léoville-Barton. Produced from a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, the wine has delicious, ripe cassis aromas. Aged in oak for 12 months, 60% new, it oozes class. Although it is light in structure, a reflection of the 2008 vintage, it has vanilla and black fruit flavours with fine tannins and a long, elegant finish. With great appeal already, it will develop complexity over the coming years.
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère Mellow fruits Blackcurrants, cedar 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Saddle of hare served on blackberry jam with thyme-scented polenta and autumn mushrooms
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot Coffee, cherries Elegant, ripe succulent fruits 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Chevreuil à la montmorency
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc Liquorice, plums, chocolate Spices, bitter cherries 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D7 Filet mignon with truffle butter sauce
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Ripe cassis Vanilla, dark fruit 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D7 Garlic-herb roasted rack of lamb, Brie aux truffes
ALBERTA
25
Right Bank
7138 $12.50
$150.00
7139
Château Les Tours Seguy, 2010, AOC Côtes de Bourg, J.F. Breton The Côtes de Bourg lies on the northern bank of the Gironde, where it meets the Dordogne River. Château Les Tours Seguy has been in the family of Jean-François Breton since before 1868, when it was mentioned in that edition of Cocks & Féret. 14.5 hectares are planted on gently sloping, alluvial gravelly clay soils facing south west. The 2010 is a blend of 85% Merlot with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It has aromas of cassis and coffee, with good intensity of fruit, and a fine, spicy finish.
Château Puygueraud, 2008, AOC Bordeaux-Côtesde-Francs, Héritiers George Thienpont
$128.00
The little known Côtes de Francs appellation, east of SaintÉmilion, is the smallest in the Gironde (450 hectares), but occupies some of the highest slopes. Château Puygueraud was purchased by George Thienpont of Vieux Château Certan in 1946, when it was a ruin. Today, it is the leading estate in the region. The vineyard was re-structured during the 1970s; therefore at an average age of 30 years, the 27 hectares of vines are now mature. Merlot and Cabernet Franc are complemented with 5% of Malbec. Deeply coloured, this wine has liquorice, dark fruit and a smoky aroma. Aged for over 12 months in barrel, it has good fruit with chewy tannins.
7140
Château Vieux Clos St Émilion, 2011, AOC SaintÉmilion Grand Cru, S.C.E.A. Terras-Le Henanff
$21.33
$25.50
$153.00
7141 $31.50
$189.00
26
Deep plum in colour, the Château Vieux Clos St Émilion has a mellow bouquet with nice fruit and concentration on the palate. Aged for fourteen months in oak barrels, 50% new, it has fine-grained tannins and a powdery texture. The Château lies on the limestone plateau west of SaintÉmilion and is planted with 50 year old vines on sandy soils, 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec.
Château Taillefer, 2009, AOC Pomerol, Héritiers Bernard Moueix Château Taillefer sits east of the city of Libourne, on the border between Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. The elegant Château features in maps dating back to 1750, when it was already surrounded by vineyards. It has been in the hands of the Moueix family since the early 1900s and was inherited by the current owner, Catherine Moueix, in 1996; she has engaged the skills of consultant Professor Denis Dubourdieu. Merlot, the predominant variety in the final wine, is blended with a not so insignificant proportion of Cabernet Franc, creating a wine with floral notes of violets and black cherries combined with coffee flavours, the result of 15 months in oak. Soft and rich on the palate, it is concentrated and structured and needs more time; it has great potential.
OPIMIAN CELLAR OFFERING 217
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc Cassis, coffee Medium-bodied, spicy, cassis 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Duck cassoulet
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec Liquorice, dark fruits Juicy fruits, chewy finish 18° C 2013-2016, M7 D9 Beef wellington
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec Mellow, vanilla Concentrated, fine tannins 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D8 Chicken paillard with gremolata
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Violets, black cherries, coffee Concentrated, depth and structure 18° C 2013-2020, M6 D8 Côte de boeuf with blue cheese butter
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
7142 $41.17
$247.00
7143 $47.83
$287.00
Château La Pointe, 2008, AOC Pomerol One of the largest estates in Pomerol, Château La Pointe was sold by the d’Arfeuille family to the insurance company Generali France in 2007. The estate is run on behalf of the group by Agricultural Engineer, Eric Monneret. It is currently undergoing a transition with capital investment and the appointment of consultant Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, co-owner of Château Angélus, in January, 2008. 22 hectares are planted with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 2008 has nice earthy forest fruits. Medium-bodied, it has good length and was aged for 12 months in oak barrels, 50% new, although the oak is not apparent.
20 Mille, 2010, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, JeanPhilippe Janoueix Jean-Philippe Janoueix likes to push boundaries. On his vineyard next to the Dordogne humidity is high and there is often fog in winter, although there is less rain than in Pomerol, and it is drier in summer. To experiment with these conditions, Jean-Philippe has planted vines up to a density of 20,000 plants per hectare. To put this into context, the top estates in Saint-Émilion are at around 6,500 and the Médoc at 10,000, so this is one of the densest plantings in the world. Some years it works, generally when temperatures are high and the sun is strong so the vines benefit from the shading. In other years, rain and humid conditions can result in the development of mildew and rot. Everything must be done by hand, as it is impossible to enter the vineyard with machinery of any sort. The wine was aged in 12 barrels coming from a selection of coopers. The 2010 has spicy, cooked fruits, nutmeg and coconut aromas. With good concentration and balanced acidity, it will continue to mature over the next few years.
BORDEAUX SEMAV >>
Merlot, Cabernet Franc Earthy forest fruits Medium-bodied, complex, length 18° C 2013-2018, M6 D7 Roast pheasant with wild mushrooms
Merlot Cooked fruits, nutmeg, coconut Medium-bodied, supple 18° C 2013-2017, M6 D8 Steak salad with Roquefort and pomegranate seeds
Newly harvested Cabernet Franc at Château La Pointe – perfection!
ALBERTA
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