C296-QCE: Italy, Corsica and Germany

CELLAR

QC 296

ORDER JUNE 7 - JULY 11, 2022

ITALY, CORSICA & GERMANY EUROPE'S BEST KEPT SECRETS

OPIMIAN.CA

Ilaria Carparelli from I Pàstini winery in Puglia.

LOT 3448

Macramè Primitivo, IGP Puglia, I Pàstini, 2020 PRIMITIVO In Puglia’s Itria Valley, the climate has harsh winters with long warm summers. It is always very breezy with cool night temperatures, making it a suitable area for white varieties in contrast to other parts of Puglia. Vines are cultivated organically using only green manure – with the aim to use traditional viticulture and modern winemaking to express the terroir.

Itria Valley is famous for its Trulli, old drystone houses which look like something out of a Brothers Grimm fairytale are a feature of the landscape surrounded by vines and olive trees. When the Carparellis took over the I Pàstini property in 2000, 12 hectares of vines, an adjoining cottage from 1759 and the traditional Trulli were in a state of neglect. The first objective was the recovery of ancient vines through an extensive research program to identify old scions and field graft collected buds. Today, the estate has 15 hectares of vineyards planted to ancient local grape varieties such as Minutolo, Verdeca and Bianca d’Alessano.

The climate in Itria Valley consists of harsh winters with long warm summers and is always very breezy with cool night temperatures. The region is more suitable for growing white varieties than other parts of Puglia.

2020 Macramè has intense aromas of crushed ripe berries and cooked jammy fruits with a balsamic character evolving in the glass with air. More sweet, succulent fruits emerge on the palate, and a slightly astringest finish is complemented by chocolate flavours.

Made from 100% Primitivo, Macramè Primitivo at 13.5% has 7g/l of residual sweetness.

Primitivo at Its Best Ripe and cooked berries

Balsamic, sweet fruit, chocolate

2022-2024, M8 D9

18°C

13.5%

Penne puttanesca

DELIVERY WINTER 2023

$29/750 ML $174/CASE OF 6

ITALY

PUGLIA

I Pàstini ITRIA VALLEY I Pàstini winery, owned by the Carparelli family, is in Puglia’s Itria Valley, between Locorotondo and Martina Franca. The valley is famous for its “Trulli”: dry stone houses which look like something out of a Brothers Grimm fairytale are a feature of the landscape surrounded by vines and olive trees. When the Carparellis took over the property in 2000, 12 hectares of vines, an adjoining cottage dated 1759, and the traditional Trulli in a state of neglect. The first objective was the recovery of ancient vines through an extensive research program to identify old scions and field graft collected buds. Today the estate has 15 hectares of vineyards planted to ancient local grape varieties such as Minutolo, Verdeca and Bianca d’Alessano.

4

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Gianni and his wife, Ilaria, are passionate supporters of local grape varieties including, Primitivo.

3449

RAMPONE MINUTOLO, IGP VALLE D'ITRIA, I PÀSTINI, 2021

ANTICO LOCOROTONDO, DOP LOCOROTONDO, I PÀSTINI, 2021

Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, Minutolo

Minutolo

$ 37

3450

$ 222

$ 32

$ 192

Minutolo is an aromatic grape cultivated in Puglia since the 13th century. Close to extinction in 2000, it has been regenerated after a rigorous selection and planting program in Itria Valley vineyards. 2021 Rampone has floral notes with verbena, a hint of citronella alongside fennel and aniseed aromas.

It is light-bodied with crisp lemon acidity and floral flavours. Grapes were grown on hillsides at 350 metres.

Fresh apple, hay with some woody notes. It is mediumbodied with a firm lemon astringency. Made from a blend of 60% Verdeca, 35% Bianca d’Alessano and 5% Minutolo grown at 300 metres.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Fennel, verbena

6°C

Fresh apple, hay, wood

6°C

Lemon, lime, [2.00]

12.5%

Lemon, [2.00]

12%

Mushroom and Gruyère quiche

3451

VERSO SUD SUSUMANIELLO, IGP PUGLIA, I PÀSTINI, 2020

Susumaniello

$ 37

$ 222

As a refreshing aperitivo

An oak-dominated wine, it has aromas of smoky bacon, toast, chargrill and coffee.

The palate is supple with some red cherry and berry flavours complemented by milk chocolate and mocha. The Susumaniello grape is cultivated inland around the port of Brindisi, in this case, at the Torre Guaceto nature reserve. The variety is more commonly used as part of a blend. Verso Sud is 100% Susumaniello.

2022-2025, M8 D9 Smoky bacon, chargrill, coffee

18°C

Red cherries, chocolate

14%

Roast grouse with field berry sauce

photo — Don't let the flat landscape deceive you –

I Pastini sits on a plateau almost 300 metres above sea level!

— PUGLIA I PÀSTINI

5

EDITORIAL

To Our Relationships

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

Throughout our Opimian experience, beginning with becoming Members, volunteering for the organization, and now as your Managing Directors, we have always valued the relationships first and foremost. We have both had the pleasure of developing friendships with fellow Members, producers, Board Members and staff.

I PÀSTINI.............................................................................................................. P4 OPIMIAN SUGGESTS.................................................................................. P6 COUPS DE COEUR....................................................................................... P9 PUGLIA................................................................................................................ P10 NEW Paolo Leo..............................................................................................P12 The Wine People..........................................................................................P13 Le Vigne di Sammarco.............................................................................P15 NEW CANTINA VALLE ISARCO........................................................ P20 VENETO..............................................................................................................P22 Giovanna Tantini..........................................................................................P23 Villa de Moreschi..........................................................................................P25 Antichello..........................................................................................................P26 TOP VALUE WINES................................................................................... P28 Montigoli.......................................................................................................... P30 Maso Maroni.....................................................................................................P31 PROSECCO.......................................................................................................P32 Azienda Agricola Paolo Zucchetto................................................ P34 NEW Villa Crespia...................................................................................... P38 DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY................................................P40 STEPP.................................................................................................................. P46 CELLAR UP!.................................................................................................... P50 COLLECTOR’S CORNER........................................................................P55

All of this was brought into sharp focus in our first visit to a wine region since our appointment (and, of course, since COVID-19 curtailed our travel). The major wine trade show, VinItaly, had us travelling to Verona in April to meet existing partners as well as seek new and interesting producers.

We also took the opportunity of the trip to visit nearby winemakers at their cellar doors. We first found ourselves in the middle of Piedmont, home of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera d’Asti, Nebbiolo d’Alba, and a region newly presented to you last year – Roero. We met the people and heard the stories that make being an Opimian Member both interesting and unique. Opimian partners welcomed us with food and wine that shines a light on the fabulous job that our Masters of Wine do for us. The quality of the wine and the passion of the winemakers were obvious, whether we were sitting at a kitchen table or visiting a fancy tasting room.

It was then over to the Lake Garda region to visit Giovanna Tantini, maker of the most successful rosé Opimian has ever offered. Her description of the amount of work that goes into every bottle and glass had us captivated. Giovanna is back on page 23.

Once the wine show was in full swing, we were able to meet with dozens of producers.

As diverse as the Italian winemaking community is, the consistent message we heard was how important their relationship with the Opimian Membership is to them. The fact that they can rely on an order from us each year is an essential part of their business.

Our time in Italy ended with a wine industry dinner at Villa Crespia. Made in Franciacorta, the spectacular sparkling wines from this producer are so popular in the northern half of Italy that less than 15% of production is exported globally. It is an honour that Italy’s most prestigious Franciacorta winemaker reached out to Opimian based on a recommendation from one of our other producers who told them about our ability to tell a wineries’ story. The general consensus in wine circles is that the best Franciacorta now rivals and even surpasses the best Champagne.

In this issue, you’ll find the first of our two German producers, Gerd Stepp. Our other German producer, Alex Pflüger, will be back in your Cellar in late summer. It bears repeating that these relationships are important. By the time you read this, we’ll be en route to Prowein, the largest wine fair in the world, and will have met with even more Opimian producers..

It will be of no surprise to you that global supply chain issues have affected everything we buy. Wine is no different. The cost of boxes, labour and other inputs is rising. Many Italian producers are in a mad scramble this year as the horrors of war impact the local industry. Ukrainian wine bottle production has been halted. Producers sometimes even have to wait months for the essentials. Thank you for your patience as we work hard every day to keep your orders moving and the prices as stable as we can. Let’s all raise a glass to the relationships we all enjoy – wine-related or not.

Michael & Greg

6

CELLAR 296 — EDITORIAL

OPIMIAN SUGGESTS WINE SOURCING & LOGISTICS MANAGER

OUR PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR

ANNA TARZIA ZAPPIA

Anna credits her wine education to the written words in the Cellars and the spoken words of those she has been privileged to meet and places she has been fortunate to visit. All that encompasses wine is part of her identity.

A particular winemaking style has emerged as her favourite, the fabled wines of Veneto the most famous, but a style mastered in southern regions such as Puglia.

Anna is appassionata about Appassimento wines!

VERSO SUD SUSUMANIELLO, IGP PUGLIA, I PÀSTINI, 2020, LOT 3451, P5

CARLOMAGNO PRIMITIVO, IGP PUGLIA, APPASSIMENTO, 2021, LOT 3473, P16

INTEGRO NEGROAMARO, IGP PUGLIA, ORGANIC WINE, 2021, LOT 3471, P13

STEPP RIESLING, PFALZ, 2021, LOT 3508, P52

ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, PROSECCO ROSATO, DOC, TREVISO, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2021, LOT 3455, P34

GUARANO, APPASSIMENTO DA UVE SELEZIONATE, NEGROAMARO, IGP SALENTO, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2020, LOT 3462, P17

MANAGING DIRECTOR

GREG RINEHART

Greg's wine style gravitates towards less serious styled rosés and whites. He believes that all events should start with a glass of bubbly! However, when done right, there is no better red grape for producing lighterbodied wines of elegance and complexity than Pinot Noir.

— CELLAR 296 OPIMIAN SUGGESTS

7

MASTER PIECE

The Many Styles of Veneto

Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

Romeo and Juliet’s city of Verona is a stone’s throw away from the vineyards of Valpolicella.

Lying to the northwest of the town the original Classico DOC area is in the hills around Negrar, Marano and Saint Ambroglio.

The terrain is a natural amphitheatre and the highest plots (up to 600 metres) often sit above the cloud line. Vines are trained on high trellises using the traditional Pergola system, creating a ceiling of leaves that protect the bunches of grapes hanging underneath. Many are on steep terraces, requiring work in the vineyards to be manually done. To the east lies the Valpolicella Valpantena region, also on hilly ground. The wider Valpolicella DO lies on more gentle slopes and flatter ground, allowing for greater mechanization, and stretches eastwards and overlaps with Soave.

A range of wine styles with increasing complexity and body are produced from four local grape varieties – Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara. Basic Valpolicella is easy-drinking red - light and fruity with red fruit flavours and a bitter cherry twist.

If the grapes were grown within the hilly Classico region, the label will show DOC Valpolicella Classico. If the label shows Valpolicella Classico Superiore, this suggests a little more body and alcohol – although, in the context of the world of wine, these are still light refreshing reds.

At the other end of the spectrum is Amarone – the king of wines from the region and one of Italy’s best. It is big and sumptuous, rich and high in alcohol. A wine that is made to be matured and to be drunk with rich flavoursome foods. One might wonder how it is possible that the same grape varieties grown in the same region can make such contrasting styles. The key is “appassimento”, the partial drying of grapes. The technique has been used in the Veneto for centuries, dating back to the Ancient Romans. For this, the best grapes are picked at full ripeness. The very best – often those from the top of the cluster – are selected. Rather than fermented immediately, these are placed on racks in special rooms known as Fruttai and left for three to four months to dry. As the grapes shrivel and dehydrate, they become more concentrated and richer in flavour. The dried grapes are crushed towards the end of January following harvest, producing a viscous highly sweet juice. The elevated sugar concentration is a difficult environment for yeast to grow and so the alcoholic fermentation is sluggish, often taking 45 to 50 days to complete. After fermentation, the wine tastes dry with 5-7g/l residual sugar, producing Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG which is subsequently matured in wood. Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG spends a minimum of two years in large oak vessels of French or Slavonian origin (although chestnut, cherry

8

CELLAR 296 — MASTER PIECE

JANE MASTERS MW is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine, who taste and select Opimian's wines and spirits for quality and value.

COUPS DE COEUR THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES

EVERYDAY DRINKING TRIADE ROSSO DI PUGLIA, NEGROAMARO, PRIMITIVO, NERO DI TROIA, IGP PUGLIA, 2020, LOT 3468, P12

CELLARING POTENTIAL NOTTETEMPO CHARDONNAY, IGP SALENTO, 2021, LOT 3457, P11

STEPP PINOT NOIR SANDSTEIN RÉSERVE, PFALZ, 2020, LOT 3511, P53

ORENGA DE GAFFORY CUVÉE DES GOUVERNEURS, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2018, LOT 3499, P44

LOOK FOR THE APPASSIMENTO MARKER ON THE WINES PRODUCED IN THIS STYLE.

and acacia are sometimes used) with four years for Riserva wines. A less common, sweet version is called Reccioto Della Valpolicella DOCG. The grape skins leftover from Amarone production still contain lots of flavours, some residual sugar and alcohol. Rather than go to waste, these can be used to make Valpolicella Ripasso DOC wines. Meaning “passed again”, dry Valpolicella wine is passed onto the Amarone skins (pomace) and undergoes a second fermentation, giving the wine more richness and body. Some may also be matured in wood.

The combination of location, proportions of local grape varieties used, the use of “appassimento” or not, and for how long, various combinations of oak and other wood creates a panoply of wines from Valpolicella and gives winemakers the possibility to develop their own house style.

— CELLAR 296 COUPS DE COEUR

9

ITALY

PUGLIA

Italy’s Enchanting Heel

10

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Puglia in southern Italy forms the “heel” of Italy’s boot. It is a long, narrow strip on the coast culminating with the Salento Peninsula surrounded by sea. It is divided into three subregions: Foggia in the north, Bari and Taranto in the centre, and Brindisi and Lecce in the south. Constant breezes blow in as the peninsula divides the Gulf of Taranto and the strait of Otranto with the Adriatic Sea to the north and the Ionian to the south, giving respite from the summer heat.

photo — Ostini, Puglia's famous "white city", named assuch for its white walls and its typically whitepainted architecture.

3457

NOTTETEMPO CHARDONNAY, IGP SALENTO, 2021

Chardonnay

$ 192

$ 32

Delicious nectarine, mandarin, honey and spice aromas lead to a broad-structured palate. It is medium-bodied with more nectarine and peachy flavours coming through. Chardonnay was harvested in the first half of September and gently pressed.

It was fermented and aged in French oak barrels with 20% new and 80% one year old.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Mandarin, honey, spice

6°C

Nectarine, peach, [7.50]

14.5%

Grilled sea bream with mango and lime salsa

photo — The harvest is done by hand at Le Vigne

di Sammarco.

— PUGLIA LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

11

PAOLO LEO Paolo Leo is a family-owned company in Salento. Soils on the peninsula are predominantly calcareous-clay, with some sandy areas and others with exposed rock. The eastern Adriatic coast often has a cold Tramontana wind blowing; while the Ionian coast hot winds from Africa: the difference creates constant ventilation and ideal conditions for ripening grapes with wines made by Paolo’s son Nicola.

NEW NEW

3468

TRIADE ROSSO DI PUGLIA, NEGROAMARO, PRIMITIVO, NERO DI TROIA, IGP PUGLIA, 2020

3469

PASSO BARONE, VINO ROSSO D'ITALIA, 2020

Sangiovese, Primitivo, Merlot Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero di Troia

$ 27

$ 162

$ 28

$ 168

An immediate hit, this wine has lots of appeal. It has mellow aromas with cooked fruits, cola, herbs and a touch of graphite.

It is medium-bodied with nice mid-palate weight and fresh bitter fruits on the finish adding length. It is made from equal parts of Primitivo, Negroamaro and Nero di Troia.

Primitivo and Negroamaro were grown in Salento while the Nero di Troia came from the province of Bari.

Sweet oak aromas of vanilla, caramel, mocha and clove precede a full-bodied wine.

Supple in attack, it is round with similar oaky flavours on the palate complemented by black treacle, red cherries and coffee.

Primitivo grown on traditional bush vines was picked in early September, 2020. This has been blended with Sangiovese and Merlot from Guyot-trained vines harvested mid-September. After fermentation, 40% of the wine was aged in second-use barrels for six months and the oak is quite apparent.

2022-2024, M8 D9

2022-2024, M8 D9

Cooked fruits, cola, graphite

18°C

Vanilla, mocha, clove

18°C

Herbs, black fruits

13%

Oak, black treacle, cherry

14.5%

Roast beef with red wine sauce

12

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Red wine pot roast with root vegetables

photo — The Paolo Leo family touring their vineyards.

THE WINE PEOPLE The Wine People, created by Stefano Girelli and Peter Kosten, with winemakers Mattia Giacomelli and Stefano Chioccioli work in five areas of Italy with a strong presence in Puglia, an ethos of sustainability and a commitment to organic viticulture.

3471

INTEGRO NEGROAMARO, IGP PUGLIA, ORGANIC WINE, 2021

Negroamaro

$ 26

3470

INTEGRO PRIMITIVO, IGP PUGLIA, ORGANIC WINE, 2021

Primitivo

$ 28

$ 168

Dried fruits, raisins, dates, floral lavender notes combine with black treacle and smoke aromas. This is a medium-bodied wine with more fresh fruit flavours – red cherries, redcurrants, raspberries – shining through on the palate. Primitivo was organically grown around San Donaci. Grapes were handpicked the last week of August into small 10-kilogram crates, destemmed and fermented at controlled temperature. The wine is suitable for vegans.

$ 156

Floral notes of violets are complemented by black cherries and a touch of green herbs.

It is medium-bodied – on the lighter side with a smooth palate. More flavours of red cherries and cranberry emerge on the finish.

Negroamaro is grown almost exclusively in Puglia, where it is one of the most widely planted grape varieties. Negro meaning “black,” amaro “bitter,” the grape produces dark-coloured wines with lots of tannins.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Violets, black cherries, herbs

16°C

Red cherries, cranberry

13.5%

Pasta with sun-dried tomato sauce

2022-2024, M8 D9 Raisins, dates, lavender

18°C

Redcurrant, raspberry, cherry

14%

Pizza with tempeh “sausage”

photo — Integro wines with “aperitivo pugliese”: taralli, cherry tomatoes, cold cuts, pizzette and nodini di mozzarella.

— PUGLIA THE WINE PEOPLE

13

3458

SOLEMNIS PRIMITIVO, IGP SALENTO, 2019

Primitivo

$ 32

$ 192

A medium- to full-bodied Primitivo, it has toasty oak and vanilla with gamey notes.

Grapes were grown at Cellino San Marco on bush vines with 4,500 vines per hectare. It is supple with a fine-grained texture and smooth from start to finish with red and bitter cherry flavours nicely integrated with oak.

2022-2025, M8 D9 Toast, vanilla, red cherries

18°C

Bitter cherries

14.5%

Pappardelle with boar ragù

3472

COLPASSO PRIMITIVO, IGP PUGLIA, 2021

Primitivo

$ 26

$ 156 2022-2024, M8 D9

Raspberry, cherry, tea

18°C

Bitter cherry, menthol

14.5%

Rigatoni and tomato sauce with guanciale and bacon

A light-bodied wine with restrained aromas of tea leaves and cherry with a hint of raspberry. It is simple and easy drinking in style with nice bitter cherry and menthol flavours on the finish. Primitivo grapes from selected vineyards around Leverano were handpicked into small containers and softly destemmed taking care to keep the skins intact.

After fermentation, the wine remained on fine lees for several months.

Primitivo synonymous with Puglia was originally from Croatia and is the same variety as California’s Zinfandel.

14

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

PRIMITIVO Primitivo is a grape variety synonymous with Puglia, although it is now known to have originated in Croatia where it is called Tribidrag. Its history in Puglia dates back to the 18th century. It is also the same variety as California's Zinfandel. Primitivo, as its name suggests, is an early ripening variety that likes the sun and produces sweet grapes, sometimes leading to high alcohol wines.

photo — Primitivo, the most famous expression of Puglia

APPASSIMENTO

3461

ALIPASSO, APPASSIMENTO DA UVE SELEZIONATE, ALEATICO, IGP PUGLIA, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2019 Aleatico

$ 246

$ 41

LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO Owned by the Rizzello family, Le Vigne di Sammarco has 120 hectares of vineyards around Cellino San Marco in the middle of Salento. 80% of the vineyard is dedicated to indigenous grape varieties. Vines are cultivated as both traditional free-standing bush vines, known as “albarello,” and vertically trellised “spalliera.”

NEW

3459

NEGROAMARO, IGP SALENTO, ORGANIC, 2020

Negroamaro

$ 28

3460

MARASIA MALVASIA NERA, IGP SALENTO, 2020

Malvasia Nera

$ 168

Mulberries, black cherries and raspberries all lead to a smooth palate. It is mediumbodied, with fresh fruit flavours and a silky texture.

$ 40

$ 240

Sweet fruits and confectionery notes of wine gums and blackcurrant precede a supple smooth palate. It is well balanced with flavours of cherries, blackcurrants and raspberries leading to a chocolate and bitter-fruit finish. This grape is more commonly found as part of a blend with its parent variety Negroamaro. Marasia shows that it can stand alone.

2022-2024, M8 D9

A fruity wine with intense aromas of blackcurrant pastels and floral muscat, it is medium-bodied with confected black fruits.

Aleatico grapes were left to “over-ripen” until the second half of September. It was matured in oak, and has a grainy texture with some astringency and a chewy finish.

2022-2024, M8 D9

2022-2024, M8 D9

Mulberries, raspberry

18°C

Wine gums, blackcurrant

18°C

Blackcurrant pastels

18°C

Black cherries

14%

Raspberry, blackcurrant chocolate

15%

Black fruits

15%

Braised rabbit stew with tomatoes and basil

Lamb stew with fennel and olives on polenta

Venison steak with Port wine sauce

— PUGLIA LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

15

APPASSIMENTO

3473

CARLOMAGNO PRIMITIVO, IGP PUGLIA, APPASSIMENTO, 2021

Primitivo

$ 27

$ 162

Oaky clove aromas dominate red cherry and jammy fruits on the nose. It is smooth with sweet fruits mid palate leading to some dry tannins. Primitivo grapes were cultivated around Sava, on traditional low untrellised bush vines known as “Alberello basso.” The wine was part aged in French and American oak for 12 months.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Cloves, oak, red cherries

18°C

Sweet red fruits, vanilla

14%

Pan roasted pheasant breast with dried fruit and prosciutto

16

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

APPASSIMENTO “Appassimento” refers to the partial drying of grapes to produce wines with elevated aromas and flavours. The technique has been used in Italy for centuries dating back to the Ancient Romans. In the Veneto, the best grapes are picked at full ripeness and are placed on racks in special rooms known as Fruttai, and left for 3-4 months to dry.

Another concentration method is used in Puglia to produce the Carlomagno Primitivo Appassimento. The technique is called - “il giro del Picciolo” in which the stalk of the bunches is twisted stopping any nourishment from the vine to the grapes, causing them to dry out.

top photo — The team from The Wine People, behind

wines like Carlomagno Primitivo.

APPASSIMENTO

3462

GUARANO, APPASSIMENTO DA UVE SELEZIONATE, NEGROAMARO, IGP SALENTO, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2020 Negroamaro

$ 252

$ 42

Raisined fruit, Christmas cake aromas from the dried appassimento grapes combine with toast and chocolate characters. On the palate, fresh fruits emerge with plums, cherries, lavender and lint flavours. It is medium-bodied with a grippy finish.

2022-2026, M7 D9 Raisined fruit, Christmas cake, toast

18°C

Plums, lavender, chocolate

15%

Capretto ragù with tomatoes and red wine

APPASSIMENTO

3463

CONSERO, APPASSIMENTO DA UVE SELEZIONATE, PRIMITIVO, IGP SALENTO, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2020 Primitivo

$ 264

$ 44

A medium- to full-bodied wine with berries, fresh plums and blackberry characters. Grapes were late harvested by hand paying careful attention to select the best appassimento dried grapes.

After fermentation, it was matured in a combination of tank and barrels.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Blackberries, berries

18°C

Bitter cherries, plums

15%

Date-stuffed roast pheasant

bottom photo — Grapes drying for Appassimento.

— PUGLIA APPASSIMENTO

17

ALTO ADIGE: GRÜNER VELTLINER, DOC ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO, 2021, LOT 3474, P21

VENETO: ANTICHELLO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, DOCG, 2018, LOT 3485, P27

FRANCIACORTA: TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA NUMERO ZERO, DOCG, DOSAGGIO ZERO (PART OF MIXED CASE), LOT 3493, P39

PUGLIA: INTEGRO PRIMITIVO, IGP PUGLIA, ORGANIC WINE, 2021, LOT 3470, P13

18

CELLAR 296 — COMMUNITY

COMMUNITY

The complete guide to Italian wines at Opimian Italy is one of the world's great wine-producing countries, with fine wines produced in every single region.

With such a large array and choice, it’s no wonder Members are fond of Italian wines, making Italy the fastest-growing country for wine sales at Opimian. As such, we have diligently worked with our global network of Masters of Wine (MW) on building this region for Members.

Members can find Italian wines in three separate Cellars. The most prestigious regions are split: Tuscan wines appear in the second Cellar of the season (C291, C301), Veneto can be found in the 7th Cellar (C296, C306) and Piedmont wines appear in the last Cellar of the season (C299, C309).

Along with these wonderful regions, we offer southern Italian wines, where many of Italy’s top-value wines can be found: Veneto is paired with Puglia and Piedmont partners with Sicily. This allows Opimian to bring you wines from other classic Italian regions, such as Alto Adige, Franciacorta, etc. In fact, Franciacorta wines are quite rare outside of Italy, and our MWs believe these sparkling wines rival the best from Champagne. Find these on pages 38-39!

The next Cellar featuring Italy (C299 in September) will feature even more small regions, such as Umbria and Sardinia. You’ll notice an emphasis on local indigenous Italian grape varieties, as we work to uncover hidden gems not commonly found in Canada.

Best of all, we are so excited about Italy that we will be taking Members there in 2023!

TUSCANY: VIGNABENEFIZIO, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO, DOCG, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2020, LOT 3094, C291 SICILY: COLPASSO GRILLO, DOC SICILIA, 2020, UMBRIA SARDINIA, LOT 2607, C286

PIEDMONT: TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA, BARBERA D'ALBA, DOC, BOSIO WINERY, 2020, LOT 2659, C286

STARTING SEPTEMBER 20, CELLAR 299 WILL FEATURE PIEDMONT AND SICILY.

— CELLAR 296 COMMUNITY

19

ITALY

ALTO ADIGE NEW PRODUCER

Cantina Valle Isarco ISARCO VALLEY

20

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

The beautiful alpine region of Alto Adige is Italy’s most northern wine region close to the border with Austria. The Alps protect the region from cold air masses from the north while 300 days of sun a year allow grapes to fully ripen. Its Isarco Valley (Eisack in German) produces high quality, predominantly white wines. It is a narrow valley eroded by glaciers and the path of the Isarco River. Vineyards are planted on steep slopes on a variety of soils against a mountainous snow-capped backdrop. Rain in summer months is rare and daytime temperatures can be pretty high.

NEW

3475

KERNER, DOC ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO, 2021

Kerner

$ 264

$ 44

NEW

3474

GRÜNER VELTLINER, DOC ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO, 2021

Grüner Veltliner

$ 40

$ 240

Fresh spring blossom aromas are complemented by a hint of grass and green apples. It is soft and round followed by a crisp lemon acidity. Delicate white fruit aromas emerge on the palate and continue to a long, powerful finish. Grüner Veltliner grapes were grown at 500-750 metres on slopes facing southeast.

A restrained wine initially, it has nutty notes, a hint of nectarine with more floral aromas emerging in the glass. It is round with sweet passion fruit and grapefruit flavours leading to a crisp finish. Cultivated on steep slopes at between 650-970 metres.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Spring blossom, grass, green apple

6°C

Nutty, nectarine, floral

6°C

Delicate, lemon, [2.40]

13.5%

Passion fruit, grapefruit, [2.30]

14%

Grilled swordfish with salmoriglio sauce

photo — Hannes Munter, Cantina Valle Isarco resident winemaker.

Insalata mista

— ALTO ADIGE CANTINA VALLE ISARCO

21

ITALY

VENETO

One of Italy’s Leading Wine Regions The Veneto wine region in northeast Italy stretches from the Dolomite Mountains of Trentino-Alto Adige in the north down to the coast around Venice with Lake Garda at its western extreme. The region includes part of the flat Po Valley, the city of Verona and appellations such as Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave and Prosecco.

22

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Veneto is home to heavy industry, gorgeous lakes and posh ski resorts. It is one of the wealthiest parts of Italy and the vineyards need to fight for space.

3452

GIOVANNA TANTINI BARDOLINO CHIARETTO, DOC BARDOLINO CHIARETTO, 2021

Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

$ 38

$ 228

Bardolino Chiaretto is a rosé wine made on the shore of Lake Garda in the west of the Veneto region. The Tantini estate, perched on the southern moraine of the lake at Castelnuovo del Garda and Sona, has 11.5 hectares of vineyards on deep, glacial alluvial soils with deep gravel over limestone. Giovanna Tantini gave up her career as a lawyer to look after the vineyard inherited from her father. Giovanna personally oversees every aspect of production, in both the vineyard and winery.

Pale in colour, her 2021 Chiaretto was quite closed at the time of tasting with some savoury winey notes. It is light mid palate with a marked crisp acidity.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Savoury

6°C

Sour red fruits, [1.00]

12.5%

Linguine with zucchini and herbs

photo — Giovanna Tantini has single-handedly resurrected the fortunes of Italy's original rosé Bardolino Chiaretto.

— VENETO GIOVANNA TANTINI

23

3476

INDESIO PINOT GRIGIO, DOC DELLE VENEZIE, 2021

Pinot Grigio

$ 138

$ 23

A Pinot Grigio with lots of appeal, it has fresh melon and lime aromas. It is refreshing with apple and lemon flavours leading to a crisp, clean finish.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Melon, lime

6°C

Apple, lemon, [2.20]

12%

White wine-steamed clams with leeks

3486

ROSSO VERONESE, IGT, MONTIGOLI, 2020

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 29

$ 174

A light- to medium-bodied Rosso Veronese with earthy dried fruits and blueberry aromas. It has cherry and black treacle flavours with a grainy texture and some grippy tannins on the finish. Produced from a blend of 80% Corvina Veronese with 20% Rondinella, it has some residual sugar.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Dried fruits, blueberries

16°C

Treacle, cherries

13.5%

Veal Parmesan

24

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Harvesting under the Venetian sun.

VILLA DÈ MORESCHI Villa de Moreschi is a mediumsized winery in Calmasino, in Bardolino, owned by the Delibori and Cristoforetti families. As well as producing Bardolino, it makes wines from other parts of the Veneto.

VERONESE IS MORE THAN JUST VALPOLICELLA.

NEW

3478

VILLA DÈ MORESCHI BARDOLINO, DOC, 2021

3479

VILLA DÈ MORESCHI ROSSO VERONESE, IGT, 2020 NEW

Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone

$ 26

$ 156

Corvina, Merlot

$ 40

3480

VILLA DÈ MORESCHI VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO, DOC CLASSICO SUPERIORE, 2020

$ 240

Bardolino is typically light and fruity. Produced on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, the same grape varieties are cultivated as in nearby Valpolicella. Red berries and plum aromas combine with a more savoury blacktea character. Crushed raspberries emerge on the palate which linger on the finish.

Floral aromas of lilies and roses lead to a supple palate.

This is a very drinkable wine with lots of red fruit flavours.

It was produced from a blend of the local, traditional Corvina grape with Merlot and was matured for 12 months in large oak casks.

2022-2024, M8 D9

2022-2024, M8 D9

Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone

$ 246

$ 41

A Valpolicella wine made Ripasso style, with the wine spending time on Amarone skins.

Grapes came from around the villages of Marano, Negrar, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio and San Pietro in Cariano. After an initial fermentation, some months later the wine was put in contact with sweet, alcoholinfused skins from Amarone giving it more body and structure. It has a soft, smooth palate which is well balanced and rounded with cherry menthol aromas, and a tangy bitter cherry finish.

2022-2024, M8 D9

Tea leaves, plums, red berries

12°C

Floral, rose, lily

18°C

Cherry menthol

18°C

Crushed raspberry

12%

Red fruit

13.5%

Sour and bitter cherry

14%

Cherry tomato and sautéed leek pizza

Wine-braised beef chuck with rotini gratin

Grilled hanger steak with cherry tomato and balsamic sauce

— VENETO VILLA DE MORESCHI

25

3482

ANTICHELLO SOAVE, DOC, 2021

Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave

$ 28

$ 168

The Soave region to the east of Valpolicella, is renowned for its subtle white wines produced from the local Garganega grape. The 2021 Antichello has hints of talc and sherbet leading to a delicate palate with flavours of fresh lemons and apples. Garganega was blended with 20% Trebbiano di Soave.

NEW

3481

ANTICHELLO BARDOLINO, DOC, 2021

Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

$ 29

$ 174

Tasted as a barely-fermented tank sample, it showed sweet red berries, white pepper and cola aromas. It is light-bodied with a marked acidity and flavours of sour redcurrants.

It was produced from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

2022-2023, M8 D9

ANTICHELLO PINOT GRIGIO, IGT DELLE VENEZIE, 2021

Pinot Grigio

$ 32

$ 192

Lemon and apple aromas continue onto the palate. This is a crisp white refreshing in character.

2022-2024, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Sherbet, talc

6°C

Red berries, white pepper

16°C

Lemon, apple

6°C

Fresh apple, lemon, [4.00]

12%

Sour redcurrant

12%

White fruits, [4.20]

12%

Antipasti plate with prosciutto and roasted red pepper

26

3483

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Asiago cheese

Pan-seared perch with lemon and thyme

photo — Luciano Begnoni is the current generation working at the Santa Sofia winery.

3484

CHECK OUT ANTICHELLO’S PREMIUM APPASSIMENTO, PAGE 55.

ANTICHELLO Named after a fictional character from 19th or early 20th century literature, “Antichello” is described as a naughty, witty boy with magical talents - the likes of David Copperfield combined with Peter Pan. Antichello wines are modern in style with fresh dark fruits. Created and owned by the Begnoni family, the winery is in Pedemonte close to Verona.

photo — Grapes of Corvina selected for the appassimento during harvest.

ANTICHELLO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO, DOC SUPERIORE, 2019

Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone

$ 40

$ 240

A light- to medium-bodied Ripasso with some mineral notes. It is supple with aromas of graphite and blackcurrant; it is easy drinking and well balanced with red fruit flavours. It was produced from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone with the wine spending five days on Amarone skins followed by nine months in Slavonian oak barrels.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Graphite, blackcurrant

18°C

Red fruits

14%

Charcuterie board

— VENETO ANTICHELLO

27

LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

3464

ROSATO, IGP SALENTO, 2021

Negroamaro

$ 22

$ 264

A subtle wine with mellow fruit, cherries and cream characters and nice mid-palate weight. Produced from 100% Negroamaro, grapes were left to macerate 12-14 hours giving playful pink colour.

3465

MALVASIA BIANCA, IGP SALENTO, 2021

Malvasia Bianca

$ 21

$ 252

Pear drops and nectarines lead to a dry palate quite broad in structure with citrus pith finish.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Mellow fruit

6°C

Pear drops, nectarine

6°C

Cherries and cream, [7.50]

13%

White fruits, [8.50]

13%

Pan-fried trout with herbs and butter

28

2022-2023, M8 D9

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Mussels with wine sauce and burrata

TOP VALUE WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING

3467 PRIMITIVO, IGP SALENTO, 2021 3466 VERDECA, IGP SALENTO, 2021 Primitivo

$ 21

$ 276

$ 23

Verdeca

$ 252

A smooth white with fresh apples, resin and honey. It is well balanced with some weight.

A savoury wine with aromas of raisins, herbs and a touch of leather. It has a grainy texture with more mulberries and red cherries emerging in the mouth leading to a chewy finish.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2024, M8 D9

Fresh apple

6°C

Raisins, leather, herbs

18°C

Honey, [7.50]

13%

Red cherries, mulberries

13.5%

Orecchiette with fresh spring peas

Three-meat polpette al sugo

— ITALY TOP VALUE WINES

29

APPASSIMENTO

3487

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO, DOC SUPERIORE, MONTIGOLI, 2020

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 34

$ 204

Lots of oak in this Ripasso with aromas of cola, cinnamon, smoke and tar over a black fruit background. Black fruits and bitter cherries show through more on the palate with a good dose of spicy oak.

2022-2026, M7 D9 Oak, cola, cinnamon, tar, black fruit

18°C

Bitter cherry

13.5%

3488

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA, DOCG, MONTIGOLI, 2019

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 360

$ 60

Spicy oak, chocolate and clove aromas lie over a fruit background. This is a medium- to fullbodied wine, high in alcohol with slate, smoke, sweet fruits and vanilla. It has a succulent mid palate and is concentrated with a grainy texture and chewy astringent finish. Grapes were harvested in early October and dried for 120 days. The fermentation was carried with a long maceration on skins for 30 days. It was matured in French Allier and Nevers oak for 18 months. Amarone can be produced throughout the Valpolicella region from dried grapes.

2022-2030, M6 D8

Pasta arrabbiata with Pecorino Romano Spicy oak, clove, chocolate

18°C

Sweet fruits, vanilla

15.5%

“Bricked” grilled Cornish game hen

MONTIGOLI Montigoli wines are produced right in the Valpolicella Classico region at Negrar. This is the original wine-production region for Valpolicella, a natural amphitheatre of hills to the north of Verona rising to 600 metres. Permitted grapes for Valpolicella production include Corvina, Corvinone, the more neutral Rondinella and Molinara giving acidity. The awardwinning Cantina produces wines from 700 hectares of vines on high ground, many of which are trained in the traditional pergola system, with high trellis, and are harvested by hand.

30

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Montigoli is part of a cooperative of 230 families of winemakers in the Valpolicella Classica area.

MASO MARONI A family-owned winery at Maroni in the Valpantena subregion, which borders Valpolicella Classico to the east. On hilly ground north of Verona, it has the potential to produce wines of equal stature to the original Classico region. Maso Maroni has vineyards at 300 metres in dry-stone terraced plots known as “marogne.” Vines are located on hillsides on calcareous clay soils facing south and southwest.

3489

MASO MARONI VALPOLICELLA, DOC, 2021

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 35

$ 210

3490

MASO MARONI VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO, DOC SUPERIORE, VALPANTENA, 2020

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 48

$ 288

One of my favourites from the region, it has ripe plums, cherries and candied fruits with a lick of hazelnut. It is medium-bodied and structured with a succulent mid palate.

A wine with depth, finishing with flavours of red cherry, menthol and vanilla. This Ripasso underwent a second fermentation on Amarone skins followed by aging in selected oak of different sizes, adding complexity.

A light-bodied wine with spicy nutmeg and allspice aromas with violets and stewed fruit.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Stewed fruits, tea, nutmeg

18°C

Plummy fruits, cherries, candied fruit, hazelnut

18°C

Apple

13%

Red cherries, vanilla, menthol

14%

Slightly chilled as an aperitivo

photo — Maso Maroni is an idyllic and remote vineyard with stunning views; here coexist vines, history and local know how.

2022-2026, M8 D9

Hearty Tuscan ribollita

— VENETO MASO MARONI

31

PROSECCO

Lively Sparkling Wines Prosecco, the world’s bestselling sparkling wine is produced in the Veneto and Fruili-Venezia Giuila regions in northeast Italy from Glera grapes. In contrast to Champagne, Prosecco is produced using the Charmat method. The pressed grape juice is fermented in large pressurized tanks rather than bottle creating a lighter, fruitier style. Prosecco can be made across a large area of northeast Italy but certain subregions, such as the hills around Valdobbiadene, are more highly prized. Up until 2020, the term Prosecco was permitted for white sparkling wines only. Rosé Prosecco can be made from the addition of 10-15% Pinot Nero.

32

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Floralba Prosecco is great with fresh dishes

NEW

3477

FLORALBA PROSECCO ROSÉ MILLESIMATO, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO DOC ROSÉ, 2021

Glera, Pinot Nero

$ 33

3453

'84 PROSECCO BRUT, DOC TREVISO

Glera

$ 198

Pale with hints of redcurrants and herbal notes, on the palate it is supple and smooth with a fine mousse. Smartly packaged, Floralba makes any occasion feel special.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Redcurrant, herbs

6°C

Red fruit, [14.50]

11%

$ 31

$ 186

84 refers to the year that this estate was founded in the heart of the Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG. The 84 cuvée is subtle with aromas of sherbet, lemon and ripe white fruits. It has a creamy mousse with nice weight and fresh apple flavours.

Tuna avocado poke bowl

2022-2023, M8 D9 Sherbet, lemon

6°C

Sweet white fruits, apple, [12.00]

11.5%

Farro, citrus and avocado salad

photo — Mattia Giacomelli is the resident winemaker at The Wine People. He makes Floralba Prosecco.

— PROSECCO THE WINE PEOPLE, AZIENDA AGRICOLA ANDREOLA

33

AZIENDA AGRICOLA PAOLO ZUCCHETTO The history of Zucchetto winery in Valdobbiadene goes back over 100 years to 1918 and Cesare Zucchetto, a pharmacist in the small Venetian town. Cesare combined his love of vines and wine with his skills as a chemist. Sheltered by the peaks of the Dolomite Mountains, Carlo Zuchetto’s six-hectare vineyard is planted on steep slopes on Cima Hill facing south toward the lagoon of Venice. Carlo produces a limited level of production while continually striving to improve the quality of his wines.

3454

ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE, DOCG, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2021

Glera, Pinot Nero

Glera

$ 38

$ 228

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

$ 38

$ 228

A restrained style with appealing hints of fresh apple and honeysuckle alongside a yeasty character. It is smooth with nice midpalate weight followed by a firm, pithy finish giving length.

Pale salmon in colour, it has hints of redcurrant, herbs, strawberries and cherries. Produced from 86% Glera with 14% Pinot Noir, it was matured six months in tank and has good weight with some sour blackcurrant flavour and good depth.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Honeysuckle, apple

6°C

Redcurrant herb, strawberries

6°C

Citrus pith, [12.00]

11.5%

Cherries, blackcurrant, [6.00]

12%

Smoked salmon with lavash crostini and cream cheese

34

3455

ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, PROSECCO ROSATO, DOC TREVISO, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2021

Fritto misto di mare

photo — Carlo Zucchetto thoughtfully examining the soil around some young vineyards on the Cartizze hill.

MIXED CASE 3456

ZUCCHETTO PROSECCO CASE

$ 38

$ 228

THREE BOTTLES EACH SUPERIORE & ROSATO

photo — No better backdrop against which to enjoy a glass of Prosecco than the steep, terraced vineyards in the heartland of the Prosecco Superiore DOCG

— PROSECCO AZIENDA AGRICOLA PAOLO ZUCCHETTO

35

DID YOU KNOW?

Bella Bolla

By Louise Wilson MW

If there was an official sound of celebration, it surely must be the pop of a cork flying from a bottle of sparkling wine.

Opimian Cellar 296 highlights two celebration-worthy Italian sparkling wines, Prosecco and Franciacorta. Let’s look at what factors contribute to their distinctive styles.

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA MIOLO BRUT, DOCG, LOT 3492, P38

'84 PROSECCO BRUT, DOC TREVISO, LOT 3453, P33

36

CELLAR 296 — DID YOU KNOW?

LOUISE WILSON MW lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine based in Canada. She has over 20 years of experience in the wine and spirits industry and is Opimian's Senior Procurement & Category Manager.

As with all well-made wines, the foundation of a sparkling wine’s quality and taste profile is the terroir of the region in which it was made. Prosecco is produced under several Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) Appellations in northeastern Italy near Venice. Prosecco DOC stretches across the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions, where the climate is influenced both by the proximity of the Dolomite Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Wine made within the historic provinces of Treviso and Trieste can append one of these locations to their DOC designation. In response to the global thirst for both pink wine and bubbles, the Prosecco Rosé DOC was launched in 2020. Additionally, Prosecco is also crafted in a number of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantitas (DOCGs).

These wines, produced from mineral-laden soils on hilly terrain, are subject to heightened production standards resulting in an elevated expression of Prosecco.

In comparison, Franciacorta DOCG is found approximately a one-hour drive east of Milan. Located in the Province of Brescia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region, the Appellation is framed

by Mount Orfano, the Oglio River and the shores of Lake Iseo.

While the climate here is naturally continental, the moderating effect of Lake Iseo both shelters the area from northerly alpine cold fronts and absorbs the heat of the summer. Franciacorta’s wide range of mineral-rich soils, the result of ancient glacial activity, contribute to the characteristic complexity of the wine produced here.

Every step in the crafting of Prosecco is dedicated to creating a lively and fresh wine. Prosecco owes its sparkle to the Martinotti or Charmat method, in which base wines proceed through a second fermentation in a sealed tank called an autoclave. This process traps the carbon dioxide produced by the fermentation,

resulting in a spumante wine. During this process, the wine has limited contact with the lees, which showcases the delicate floral and orchard fruit profile of its main grape Glera.

Regulations allow for several other grape varieties to be used; however, they must only contribute up to a maximum of 15% of the blend. For the rosés of Prosecco, Pinot Nero supports the blend by adding a helping of crisp red berry aromas and flavour.

In contrast, Franciacorta is also always produced by the traditional method, as is the case for the wines of Champagne and Cava. Both white and rosé styles of Franciacorta are made from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero supported by Pinot Bianco. In a recent response to climate change, up to 10% of the traditional high acid grape variety Erbamat is now also approved for use.

Each of the permitted varieties contributes its own primary fruit profile. They are also ideal vectors to express the toasty, nutty secondary aromas and flavours that develop from a minimum of 18 months of lees contact during the wine’s second fermentation in the bottle. Both Franciacorta and Prosecco are produced with a range of sweetness levels: from zero dosage (up to 3 g/L of residual sugar) to demi-sec which ranges up to 50 g/L. While Franciacorta and Prosecco can be compared on the elements of terroir, grape varieties and winemaking, in my opinion attempting to determine which wine is “better” misses the point. Each of these classic sparkling wines delivers a style and price point ideal for different occasions. Whether it’s a glass of Prosecco shared with friends over Sunday brunch or the opening of a bottle of Franciacorta to mark a special anniversary, the beautiful bubbles of Italy can transform any moment into a celebration.

— CELLAR 296 DIDI YOU KNOW?

37

NEW

FRANCIACORTA Franciacorta DOCG is a small region in the north of the country, to the east of Milan. Relatively unknown on the international stage, the region is highly regarded among Italian wine lovers as Italy’s answer to Champagne. It is made using the same grape varieties and winemaking method with second fermentation in bottle.

VILLA CRESPIA Villa Crespia has 57 hectares of organically farmed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards owned by the Muratori family. These are split between 23 vineyards located in six subregions of Franciacorta. Since its inception 20 years ago, Villa Crespia has produced “zero dosage” wines to express the terroir of each plot.

38

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

3492

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA MIOLO BRUT, DOCG

Chardonnay

$ 52

$ 312

Miolo is produced from six hectares of vines planted on alluvial soils which are deep with moderate amounts of clay. It is discrete with white fruit and banana aromas. The palate is supple and smooth with mid-palate fruit of nectarines and lemons. The firm acidity and weight produce a wine with depth.

2022-2024, M8 D9 White fruit, banana

6°C

Nectarine, lemon, sherbet, [10.00]

12.5%

Vegetable mousse with asparagus on arugula

photo — From left to right, Marco, Michela, Giuliano, Bruno, Matteo and Alberto Muratori in Villa Crespia’s Barricaia.

ONE BOTTLE EACH

NUMEROZERO, CISIOLO & BROLESE EXTRA BRUT

MIXED CASE 3493

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA NUMEROZERO, CISIOLO, BROLESE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ CASE

$ 225

$ 75

NEW

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA NUMEROZERO, DOCG, DOSAGGIO ZERO

Chardonnay

Bright in colour, it exudes ripe fruits, honey, nectarine and earthy spicy aromas. To produce this, their flagship wine, Chardonnay grapes were grown on vines on deep, hilly morainic soils. The base wines were part fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, part in oak barrels and larger casks. The second fermentation in bottle was followed by a further 30 months on yeast lees giving structure. This is serious stuff with some austerity and a hint of leather on the finish.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Honey, nectarine, earth

6°C

Earthy fruit, leather, [2.00]

13%

Baked sea bass with olive oil and herbs

NEW

NEW

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA CISIOLO, DOCG, DOSAGGIO ZERO

TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA BROLESE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ, DOCG

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Savoury herbal aromas with floral notes lead to a structured wine with a weighty mid palate. Pinot Noir for Cisiolo is cultivated in a cool subregion on acidic clay soils rich in iron.

The black Pinot grapes were gently pressed to create this Blanc de Noirs and followed a similar winemaking process to NumeroZero giving good balance and flavour.

Orange salmon in colour, it has aromas of redcurrants and herbs with a hint of aniseed.

It is supple with a balanced acidity and nice weight. Pinot Noir was vinified with cold maceration to give colour and both varieties fermented in tank at low temperature before combining in the final assemblage for second fermentation in bottle.

2022-2024, M8 D9

2022-2024, M8 D9

Savoury herbs, floral

6°C

Redcurrant, herb, aniseed

6°C

Structured, [2.00]

13%

Supple, hops, [4.50]

12.5%

Pistachio-crusted scallops with thyme and tarragon

photo — The Villa Crespia vineyards of Chardonnay surround the winery, and are used to produce NumeroZero

Beef carpaccio

— FRANCIACORTA VILLA CRESPIA

39

CORSICA

Domaine Orenga de Gaffory PATRIMONIO The French Mediterranean island of Corsica lies 180 kilometres west of Italy’s Tuscan coast and directly south of Genoa.

For centuries, it was part of the Republic of Genoa and this has had an influence on wine styles among other things: Nielluccio is a local Sangiovese. There are also similarities with Provence and other southern French regions in the white wines made from Vermentinu (what they call Vermentino in southern Corse) and rosés produced. The island is mountainous with tortuous roads sitting above and following the rugged coastline. It boasts more hours of sunshine annually than any other region of France. Most of the island is granite, but there are pockets of limestone in the northwest around Patrimonio and the stunning cliffs in the south at Bonifacio.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

40

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Domaine Orenga de Gaffory estate is located in the northwest of Corsica in AOP Patrimonio where sedimentary rock and deep limestone soils contrast with the mainly granite soils that make up the rest of the island. The appellation, the first to be awarded in Corsica, is now one of nine. It sits at the base of the beautiful Cap Corse, close to the pretty port of Saint Florent and west of Bastia town on the western side of the Massif du Monte Stello. The region benefits from cool breezes blowing in from the sea and diurnal temperature variation due to the mountains. The Domaine organically farms 56 hectares of vines of traditional grape varieties.

photo — Henri Orenga de Gaffory, the estate’s winemaker, sees wine much like art—as a sensual pleasure that relies on one’s perception

NEW

3494

CUVÉE SIGNATURE HENRI ORENGA DE GAFFORY, AOP PATRIMONIO, VERMENTINO, 2016

Vermentino

$ 99

3496

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, BLANC, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2021

Vermentino

$ 198

A stunning wine reminiscent of mature white Burgundy (although made from a completely different grape). It is golden in colour with toasty hazelnut aromas, honey, earthy spice and ripe and cooked fruits. It is supple and smooth with roasted pineapple, nectarine and peach compote flavours. A fresh acidity keeps it vibrant with a lingering lemon and citrus pith finish. Vermentino, grown on limestone-rich chalk and clay soils, was handpicked and underwent 12-24 hours’ skin maceration. The clear juice was fermented in French oak and matured for 16-18 months with regular “batonnage” lees stirring. Deliciously mature, it should hold for a couple of years.

$ 37

3495

ORENGA DE GAFFORY CUVÉE FELICE, ROSÉ, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2021

Nielluccio, Grenache

$ 222

$ 43

$ 258

A smooth round white, broad in structure with a balanced acidity. It has aromas of honey, apple and spices with more citrus, spring blossom and fresh fruits on the palate. A light frost, in early April particularly, hit Vermentinu so that the crop was lower than average. Thankfully, this was followed by a good growing season with moderate warm temperatures leading to harvest at the end of August.

Quite restrained in bouquet at the time of tasting, it was soft and round on the palate with sweet red fruit flavours and a rich structure. A blend of 80% Nielluccio with 20% Grenache, grapes were macerated for 10 to 12 hours to give colour.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Honey, apples, spices

6°C

Vinous fruit

6°C

Citrus, fresh apple, [1.00]

13%

Sweet red fruits, [2.00]

13%

Linguine with clams in white wine

Thai chicken satay

2022-2025, M8 D9 Toast, hazelnuts, honey

6°C

Roasted pineapple, nectarine, [1.00]

13.5%

Chicken involtini with a cream sauce

photo — 'Pagliaghju' - a traditional Corsican stone building in the middle of the vines used to serve as a shelter.

— CORSICA DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY

41

REVEAL THE REMARKABLE A CONNOISSEUR’S DREAM. Exclusive to this program, Founders Choice wines are not available elsewhere in the Cellar Offering and won’t be for another five years.

Dedicated to the spirit of our Founders, this program presents only the finest wines. From our producers’ cellars to yours, this is an opportunity to experience another level of quality. This case of one premium wine is curated with the potential to age.

Included in your six bottle case, you will find tasting notes and a special message from the producer to treasure.

The Founders Choice producer for this Cellar is Corsica's Domaine Orenga de Gaffory.

SUBSCRIBE NOW

$214

Via your Dashboard at Opimian.ca

Email MemberService@Opimian.ca

Call 1-800-361-9421

per Cellar Offering

ESCAPES

Corsica | A Gourmet’s Paradise Corsica, the Isle of Beauty, is a French island in the Mediterranean. You may be familiar with the birthplace of Napoléon Bonaparte, who proclaimed himself Emperor of the French from 1804 until 1814, and again in 1815. But Corsica is also a hiking heaven, a beach paradise, and very much a foodie’s wonderland.

Corsican cuisine is based on rusticity and fresh farm products. The local fares are largely protected with Appellations (yes, just like wine!). The charcuterie is known as some of the best in the world, with lonzu, prisuttu and copa made exclusively with the local breed of pork, while the cheese is mostly goat and sheep-based, as few cattle are raised on the island.

Corsica’s iconic cheese is called Brocciu, produced from ewe’s milk. It is a young white cheese similar to Ricotta, often paired with Corsican white wines. Corsu Vecchiu, or Tomme Corse, another local cheese made with sheep’s milk, has a semi-soft texture and is aged for a minimum of five months. A Filetta, meaning “fern”, is a soft cheese made using raw goat’s milk and aged for 4 to 6 weeks. Earthy and salty, this is the perfect pairing with the sweet Muscat du Cap Corse during aperitif or after dinner!

The main meal will likely include meat: wild boar, veal and lamb are often on the menu and cooked in a myriad of ways, while dessert might feature the aforementioned brocciu in a lemonflavoured cheesecake called Fiadone, or a chestnut tart (made with chestnut flour).

Simple, tasty dishes inspired by the land.

Napoleon, himself hardly a foodie, nevertheless understood the French art of the table. His diplomatic efforts relied heavily on organizing big banquets, paying particular attention to the presentation aspect of the meal: crystal glassware, silver cutlery, and ornate porcelain plates that he was allowed to take with him in exile. The Empire established the popularity of French cuisine around the world, still admired to this day. It is under Napoleon’s reign that the word “chef” was first used to describe the person in control of the kitchen – in this case, Antonin Carême.

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, AOP MUSCAT DU CAP CORSE, 2021, LOT 3500, P45

In honour of Napoleon, who died 200 years ago, the winemaker at Orenga de Gaffory created a special cuvée, exclusive to Founders Choice subscribers. Made with indigenous Corsican grapes, this wine is a true collector’s item. Wine and dine Empire-style!

— CELLAR 296 ESCAPES

43

3497

3499

ORENGA DE GAFFORY CUVÉE DES GOUVERNEURS, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2018

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, ROSÉ, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2021

Nielluccio, Sciacarello

$ 36

3498

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, ROUGE, AOP PATRIMONIO, 2019

Nielluccio, Grenache

$ 216

$ 36

$ 216

Nielluccio

$ 54

$ 324

This has intense sweet black fruits and vanilla, ripe blackcurrant and blueberries aromas.

Layers of flavour reveal themselves on the palate creating a complex wine with a smooth silky texture yet quite a firm structure. This is Nielluccio at its best: ripe and concentrated, with balance and poise. Grapes from old vines were handpicked, destemmed and crushed with an extended vatting of 30 days on skins.

The wine was matured in French oak with a third new, a third one-year-old, and third twice-used barrels.

Earthy fruits lead to a broadstructured palate with good weight. It is vinous with flavours of pomegranate and redcurrants. This is the closest you will get to a Provence rosé style outside of Provence. Nielluccio was blended with 25% Sciacarello.

Sciacarello is primarily grown in Corsica and is planted around the island contributing fragrance and finesse.

Hot and baked fruit raisin aromas combine with treacle and smoke. This is a full-bodied wine which is dense and concentrated with rich, cooked black fruit flavours leading to a mineral finish. 2019 saw dry and hot conditions during the growing season leading to an early vintage. Produced from a blend of 90% Nielluccio, 10% Grenache.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2026, M8 D9

2022-2028, M6 D8 Black fruits, blueberries vanilla

18°C

Earthy fruit

6°C

Baked fruit, raisin, treacle

18°C

Blackcurrant, bitter cherry, vanilla

14%

Pomegranate, redcurrant, [1.50]

12.5%

Cooked black fruit, mineral

13.5%

Roast wild boar loin with blueberry sauce

44

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

Grilled lobster tail with lemon

Hearty beef stew with sage and pancetta

photo — The end of the 2021 harvest in Patrimonio.

Time to celebrate!

3500

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, AOP MUSCAT DU CAP CORSE, 2021

Muscat à Petit Grain

$ 32

ORENGA DE GAFFORY RAPPO, VIN DE LIQUEUR

Aleatico

$ 192

Fragrant floral notes combine with white fruits, fresh lemon and orange blossom. Sweet and supple on the palate with nice bitter white fruits, creating harmony and giving length.

Muscat à Petit Grain grapes were lightly crushed and left to macerate for 24 hours.

Fermentation was arrested by the addition of grape spirit producing a sweet 16% wine with great balance. Despite its alcohol content, it is light and has finesse.

SWEET WINES FOR ALL OF YOUR DELECTABLE DESSERTS.

3501

$ 74

$ 148

A fortified wine produced from Aleatico grapes. It is ruby in colour with a complex bouquet of cherry menthol, raspberry, wood and a touch of chocolate. It is smooth with balanced sweetness, alcohol, and bitter notes. Produced from a blend of vintages up to 10 years old and matured in old French barrels. It is deliciously ready for drinking but will also cellar well. Aleatico grapes were destemmed, crushed and macerated on skins for 15-20 days during fermentation.

Grape spirit was used to arrest the fermentation.

2022-2024, M8 D9 Orange blossom, white fruits

6°C

Lemon, floral, [95.00]

16%

Muscat-poached pears with lemon crème fraîche and mint

2022-2028 Woody, cherry menthol, raspberry

18°C

Chocolate, woody fruits

15.5%

Dark chocolate-espresso mousse

photo — A chocolate dessert is best served with Rappo.

— CORSICA DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY

45

46

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Gerd Stepp at the family's apple orchards, where horses are kept during winter months.

GERMANY

Stepp

3503

STEPP PINOT GRIS, PFALZ, 2021

PFALZ Pinot Gris

$ 30

$ 180

Appetizing aromas of fresh apples, aniseed and honey precede a fresh crisp palate. It is round with white fruits and lingering green apple flavours.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

2022-2023, M8 D9

The Pfalz is Germany’s most southern and warmest wine region. It’s located in western Germany between the Rhine River and the low-lying Haardt Mountain range, a continuation of Alsace’s Vosges Mountains. Close to the border of France, the region has dry, warm summers and mild winters. The Haardt Mountains create a rain shadow and vineyards are planted on their eastern flanks. The region’s warm, almost Mediterranean, climate conveys the potential for producing some of Germany’s best red wines. However, white wines represent the majority of production. Riesling from the best sites can produce white wines with significant aging potential.

Gerd Stepp grew up in Bad Dürkheim in the Mittelhaardt of the Pfalz. As a child he watched and helped his parents tend their vines and make wine. Today, Gerd farms the family’s vineyards and runs the little winery, also buying grapes from like-minded growers in the region.

Having returned to Bad Dürkheim after making wines around the globe, his technical winemaking skills combined with commercial experience allow him to produce a range of wines which are both affordable and special from many varieties.

For anyone wanting proof of Germany’s potential for red wine, his Pinot is a must.

Fresh apples, aniseed

6°C

White fruits, honey, [4.00]

13%

Grilled cauliflower steak with lemon, white anchovy and golden raisins

3504

STEPP PINOT BLANC, PFALZ, 2021

Pinot Blanc

$ 30

$ 180

Subtle mineral, flinty aromas open on the palate to more nectarine and tart lemon flavours. It is dry and crisp. Pinot Blanc was grown on some of the highest and most northern vineyard sites in the Pfalz. Pinot Blanc is prone to botrytis requiring great attention in the vineyard given the rainfall in 2021.

2022-2023, M8 D9 Mineral, flint

6°C

Nectarine, lemon, [4.00]

12.5%

Roasted chicken salad with dates

— GERMANY STEPP

47

MIXED CASE 3507

STEPP RIESLING SINGLE CRU CASE

$ 37

$ 222

NEW

3505

STEPP SCHEUREBE, PFALZ, 2021

Scheurebe

$ 28

3506

STEPP SAUVIGNON BLANC, PFALZ, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc

$ 168

Scheurebe 2021 has aromas of spring blossoms and nectarines. It is crisp with some mid-palate weight and astringent lemon, grapefruit and other citrus flavours.

Scheurebe grapes were grown around the village of Herxheim am Berg on limestone-rich soils. The variety, a cross between Riesling and Bouquet Blanc, was created in 1916 by Dr. Georg Sheu.

$ 33

This is an intensely aromatic Sauvignon with aromas of elderflower, grass, fresh lime and some green chillies. It has good midpalate weight with sour lime and zesty green apples to finish. The cool nights of the high altitude Kirchenstück site are conducive to full flavour development in the Sauvignon grapes. It was fermented with specially selected yeast then kept “sur lie” until bottling.

2022-2023, M8 D9

2022-2023, M8 D9

Nectarine, spring blossom

6°C

Lime, green chilli, grass, elderflower

6°C

Lemon, grapefruit, green apple, [6.00]

12.5%

Lime, green apple, [3.00]

12.5%

Roasted Brussels sprouts with whipped feta and sumac

48

$ 198

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

TWO BOTTLES EACH KÖNIGSWINGERT, MANDELGARTEN & SAUMAGEN

Chargrilled squid with olive and lemon

photo — The home of STEPP wine. A typical sandstone house for the Pfalz region.

NEW

STEPP RIESLING VOM KÖNIGSWINGERT, PFALZ, 2021

STEPP RIESLING VOM MANDELGARTEN, PFALZ, 2021

Riesling

Riesling

A characterful wine with aromas of freshly cut grass, lime and fennel. It is supple with sour green fruits present in the mouth, apples, greengages and gooseberry. A tangy acidity creates a firm finish with lingering green apple flavour. Königswingert, meaning “King’s vineyard,” is a single Cru with deep, mineral rich soils containing alluvial stones and sandstones.

Cut grass, fennel Greengages, gooseberry, apple, [4.00]

Riesling

Less expressive when tasted but with a depth and balance that shows lots of promise. It has some green apple and flinty aromas, with more concentration on the palate leading to flint, lime and a savoury mineral finish. The single Cru Mantelgarten is the oldest of the Stepp vineyards planted well over 35 years ago. Translated as the “almond garden,” it is located between Bad Dürkheim and Wachenheim.

2022-2025, M7 D9

STEPP RIESLING VOM SAUMAGEN, PFALZ, 2021

2023-2027, M7 D8

Kallstadter Saumagen has soils of loessloam with shell-limestone known as Muschelkalk. This, combined with its southeastern exposition, makes it a prime location and in 2021 has produced a wine with lovely fruit and apple-strudel aromas combined with aniseed. It is broad on the palate with a fresh lemon and lime finish.

Saumagen, meaning “sow’s stomach,” is given to the Cru due to its shape when looked on from above. Stuffed sow’s stomach is also a local delicacy.

6°C 12.5%

Flint, green apple

6°C

Lime, mineral, savoury, [4.00]

12.5%

Pan-seared Arctic char with braised fennel Thai penang curry

2022-2026, M8 D9 Aniseed, spice, apple strudel

6°C

Lemon, lime, [5.00]

12.5%

Grilled red snapper with pepper-medley salsa

photo — Grape pickers lunch with plenty of local delicacies, such as Bratwurst and Saumagen with autumn potatoes.

— GERMANY STEPP

49

CELLAR UP! WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

This pesky pandemic has made visiting wine cellars around the world a very rare occurrence. Much to our delight, we were very recently in the very cellars of the producers featured in C296. From the smallest of wineries to those that produce many thousands of bottles, there is a very common theme.

The bulk of their collections is local to their country, in this case, Italy. In addition, there are always iconic wines from regions around the world. Not even an Italian winemaker drinks only Italian wine! Even more interesting is that the domestic wines come from all Italian regions. A vintner in Barolo is just as likely to have wines from Puglia, Alto Adige and Veneto to draw from when it’s time for dinner.

We’ve never been afraid to follow the advice of the experts. Just look at how essential Opimian’s relationships with Masters of Wine around the world have been. Follow these winemakers' lead and stock your own cellar with these wonderful expressions of their origin.

SPARKLING Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance TENUTA VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA MIOLO BRUT, DOCG, LOT 3492, P38

Villa Crespia is on the cutting edge of Franciacorta production. This producer is also instrumental in singing the praises of this marvellous sparkling wine throughout the world. Take a bottle of this to your next party (or pop one at home) and you’ll be introducing yourself and your friends to the best-kept secret in méthode traditionnelle sparkling. Champagne’s got nothing on this.

MEDIUM-BODIED WHITE Seafood such as oysters, scallops, sashimi, or salads with mild vinaigrettes GRÜNER VELTLINER, DOC ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO, 2021, LOT 3474, P21

It’s often said that Riesling is the sommelier’s grape variety. That’s because they want all of the Grüner Veltliner to themselves! Have a look at the wine list of the best restaurants in the world and you’ll always see one of these. The balance of softness and crisp acidity will have you wondering why you waited so long.

MEDIUM-BODIED RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles STEPP CABERNET FRANC, PFALZ, 2020, LOT 3512, P53

When you’re thinking of red wine, your mind probably doesn’t go immediately to Germany. Well, think again! Cabernet Franc is an oft-forgotten varietal that deserves your attention. So does this German version from old vines. You get all the flavour without the heaviness and tannins.

FULL- BODIED RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert ANTICHELLO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, DOCG, 2018, LOT 3485, P27

The depth of flavour that results from the drying of the grapes is truly amazing.

This style, the pride of the Valpolicella region, will knock your socks off with its raisin, red fruit and, yes, bitter chocolate notes. This will stand up to the gamiest of meats and the richest of sauces. It will also improve in your cellar for years.

AROMATIC OR SWEET Dessert, rich foods like foie gras DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, AOP MUSCAT DU CAP CORSE, 2021, LOT 3500, P48

Remember when we would have our friends over for dinner, and dessert was about to be served? Sure, coffee is one choice, but in many parts of the world, Italy included, a dessert wine is the preference. Enter this lovely Muscat. Sweet enough to accompany whatever delicacy you’re serving, but not so sweet that it overpowers. A perfect addition to any cellar.

50

CELLAR 296 — CELLAR UP!

STEPP RIESLING VOM MANDELGARTEN, PFALZ, 2021, LOT 3507, P49

PRODUCER'S CORNER

Gerd Stepp | Winemaking Runs in the Family Even as a young child, Gerd Stepp, now owner and winemaker of his winery, found himself in the family vineyard with his parents. He already knew that he would continue the family tradition of viticulture.

Gerd learned a great deal in those early years among the vines, went for formal education in viticulture and winemaking and then travelled the world to see all of this knowledge in action.

From Argentina to Zimbabwe (and every letter of the alphabet in between), he discovered that every terroir and every grape variety required its own, unique attention. He brought all this knowledge and experience back with him to the family estate in Pfalz, Germany, and began to make it his own wine. The cool climate, diverse soil types and excellent sun exposure were perfect to realize his vision of what Riesling, Pinot Noir (his favourite), Cabernet Franc, as well as Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Scheurebe could be.

Along with two or three employees in the vineyard and a similar number in the cellar, Gerd oversees every step of the operation. His favourite part of the annual ritual occurs in the weeks leading up to harvest. He takes these moderate days to trim the canopy and remove any broken or spoiled fruit. As with every winemaker, the pandemic did not make things easier. From the short supply of dry goods and bottles to workers needing to stay home, it was always Gerd who found the way through.

As he looks back on a career that still has decades ahead, Gerd remembers his work in Zimbabwe. The passionate people and positive impact that the wine industry was making locally are a wonderful memory. He would love to return and help again if the chance arises.

Opimian brings such a wide range of Stepp wines into Canada.

In every case, these wines come from selected vineyards with high-quality fruit and low intervention winemaking. This means only small quantities are produced and are often limited. This philosophy is even more evident in the Riesling Single Crus. In Gerd’s own words, “Riesling has a long and important history. In fact, it is Germany’s signature grape. The greatness of Riesling is its ability to reflect the individuality of each vineyard’s terroir with near-perfect precision. This is intriguing and a must-do for any serious winemaker here. So I picked my most expressive vineyards based on soil types for the single Crus.”

That being said, his ‘desert island wine’ is the Pinot Noir Réserve Sandstein. "This is a very special wine" he said with pride. Stepp has also provided the wines for this Cellar’s Masters Case. Gerd is delighted that so many Members will have the opportunity to try three, distinct styles. Be prepared to pair with them with Asian food, fish or sushi. We can’t wait until they arrive!

STEPP PINOT NOIR SANDSTEIN RÉSERVE, PFALZ, 2020, LOT 3511, P53

— CELLAR 296 PRODUCER'S CORNER

51

3508

STEPP RIESLING, PFALZ, 2021

Riesling

$ 34

$ 204

Riesling was grown on gentle slopes of the Haardt Mountains at two sites in Herxheim am Berg and Bad Dürkheim. Sweet ripe fruits, nectarines and pineapple aromas give huge appeal. It is medium-bodied with fresh tropical fruit salad and passion fruit flavours. It is flavoursome with good depth and a crisp, zesty lemon and lime finish.

2022-2025, M8 D9 Nectarine, pineapple

6°C

Tropical fruit salad, passion fruit, [5.00]

12.5%

Thai coconut corn soup with garnish of grilled shrimp

3509

CRAFT 3 MALBEC, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA - BY GERD STEPP, 2021

Malbec

$ 31

$ 186 2022-2026, M7 D9

Spicy, plums

18°C

Dark fruits, supple

14.5%

Beef-stuffed empanadas with chimichurri

As well as making wines in Germany, Gerd continues to consult internationally and has made wine in Argentina for the last 20 years. Craft 3 Malbec is his own wine inspired by high-altitude vineyards in Chacayes and Tupungato. It has intense, spicy plummy aromas with good depth. It is smooth with a fine texture and lots of dark fruit flavours. Malbec was cultivated at near desert conditions, with irrigation water provided by melting snow from the Andes.

After cold maceration and fermentation, the wine was shipped on its fine lees to Germany for maturation.

52

CELLAR 296 — QUEBEC

photo — Isa Stepp tasting the Pinot Blanc juice as part of the daily fermentation control. Somebody has got to do it!

NEW

3510

STEPP PINOT NOIR, PFALZ, 2021

Pinot Noir

$ 37

3512

STEPP CABERNET FRANC, PFALZ, 2020

Cabernet Franc

$ 222

Translucent in colour, the 2021 Pinot has aromas of fresh hay, cherry menthol and orange peel with pepper.

It is light in weight, supple and easy drinking with fresh cherry flavours. Pinot Noir grapes were sourced from terraced vineyard sites on limestone and coloured sandstone soils.

$ 47

$ 282

A new addition to Gerd's range, made from grapes from one of the oldest plantings of Cab Franc in the region. It has nice aromas with green leaf and capsicum.

Dark fruit flavours emerge on the palate and mingle with the herbal character. It is supple and smooth with a succulent mid palate and cool fruit character.

Planted on an east-facing slope overlooking the Rhine Valley, handpicked grapes underwent a cold maceration prior to fermentation. It was matured in second-fill French oak barrels for 20 months.

2022-2025, M8 D9

3511

STEPP PINOT NOIR SANDSTEIN RÉSERVE, PFALZ, 2020

2022-2028, M6 D8

Hay, cherry menthol, pepper

18°C

Herbal, leaf, spices

18°C

Fresh cherries

13%

Dark fruits, herbs

14%

Salmon burger with avocado, jalapeño chili and aioli

NEW

Steak frites with herbed aioli

Pinot Noir

$ 45

$ 270

A stunning wine – which could easily be mistaken for a top Burgundy. It is concentrated, complex and classy with lots of potential for cellaring. Oaky aromas of vanilla and fresh wood combine with cherries, strawberries and mulberries.

On the palate, it is structured with great balance and depth. Dark fruits lead to persistent bitter cherry and oaky flavours.

Pinot Noir grapes were grown in a singleterraced plot on a southeast-facing slope on sandstone soils. Grapes were handpicked, partially destemmed and put into open top fermenters. The fermentation was completed using selected Burgundian yeast and pigeage carried out 2-3 times per day. It was matured in French oak with 40% new for 20 months.

2022-2028, M8 D9 Vanilla, cherries, mulberries

18°C

Strawberries, bitter cherry, oak

13.5%

Pink rack of lamb with Asian-spiced blackcurrant glaze

photo — The Pinot Noir Réserve vom Sandstein vineyard also pairs fabulously with Asian cuisine such as sushi and sashimi.

— GERMANY STEPP

53

! s p u p

WEB

Po

Next Starting

Cellar

OPIMIAN.CA

es

intag v y r a n i extraord uly. r o f k o o L nac in J g a m r A of

Exclusive Limited Product Drops OPIMIAN keeps getting better! Starting next

month in Cellar 297, for a limited time in each Cellar, Members will have the opportunity to order even more exclusive bottles, online only.

These remarkable products are so special that we can only offer a very limited quantity over a short period of time. Each Cellar will see a new product pop-up, not to be missed!

CHECK YOUR INBOX OR FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA.

APPASSIMENTO

3485

ANTICHELLO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, DOCG, 2018 Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara

$ 79

$ 474

2022-2028, M8 D9 Earth, cherry almond, vanilla

18°C

Raisins, herbs, bitter chocolate

15%

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

Barbecued rib eye

A complex wine with appealing aromas of cherry almond, vanilla, spices and fresh earth.

It is medium-bodied with raisin flavours and herbs and red fruits leading to a bitter chocolate finish. A blend of all four traditional grapes Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara: these were dried for three months on racks before fermentation. It was matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks.

FROM ANTICHELLO

— CELLAR 296 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

55

JOIN OPIMIAN’S MASTERS OF WINE WITH

THE MASTERS CASE SUBSCRIPTION THE BEST IN A BOX

EASY to order EXPERTLY curated EFFORTLESSLY enjoyable

$157

Overwhelmed by choosing wines in the Cellar?

Subscribe to The Masters Case, a mixed, six-bottle case curated by Opimian’s own Masters of Wine for Members like you.

Even better, you get to taste the wines along with your MW once you receive them! Two bottles each of three outstanding wines from a featured region to take the guesswork out of choosing! You will discover three styles of wine that will challenge your palate and cultivate your curiosity. Rely on world-class expertise!

The Masters Case for this Cellar features wines from Stepp.

SIGN UP NOW

Via your dashboard at Opimian.ca

MemberService@opimian.ca

300-2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8 OPIMIAN.CA

1-800-361-9421