C306-AB: Italy and Germany

CELLAR

AB 306

ORDER JUN 6 - JUL 10, 2023

ITALY & GERMANY OPIMIAN.CA CELEBRATING 50 YEARS

Perfectly ripe Verdeca grapes from the epic 2022 vintage in Puglia's Valle d'Itria at I Pastini.

Ormanera SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA, DOP, 2016

If we use the classic “boot” analogy, the Salice Salentino appellation covers a small area at the centre of Italy’s heel.

Here, in southern Puglia, the land forms a peninsula jutting into the Adriatic Sea. This is a key factor in tempering the dry, sun-baked climate. The grapevines benefit from hot summers and cooling sea breezes to ripen grapes fully while retaining fresh, balanced acidity.

The area produces mainly red wine, and native variety Negroamaro is its star. Roughly translated, the grape’s name means black and bitter, which aptly describes its intense colour and robust tannins. As is the case with this feature red, a small proportion of Malvasia Nera is commonly blended with Negroamaro for its lively, aromatic character.

The Ormanera cuvée from Le Vigne di Sammarco is a riserva-tier wine from Salice Salentino. This designation is reserved for higher quality wines, aged for a minimum of two years before release, with at least six months of oak maturation. The 2016 vintage was cool fermented to preserve its fruit-focused intensity. The wine was then transferred to second- and third-use barrels for nine months. These older barrels impart less overt oak flavours, while subtly softening the tannic structure.

Eight years on, the Ormanera 2016 is still a powerful red wine with firm, grippy tannins. Youthful fruity aromas mingle with aged undertones of prune and mushroom on the nose and follow through on the palate. Finishes dry with balanced freshness. Decant up to an hour before serving. 2024-2029–jb

Negroamaro

Ripe dark fruit, prune, Tart red cherry, plum, nutmeg, mushroom raisin, earthy

15%

Rabbit stew with potatoes and seasonal vegetables

LOT 4314

$ 25 / 750ml

$ 150 / CASE OF 6

EDITORIAL

Can You Say Variety?

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

Whether it's grape varieties (over 30), wine regions (over 20), or styles (red, white, rosé and sparkling), this Cellar offering has variety in spades. Don't worry, we've given you lots of help in deciding what you'd like to order.

Michael Palij, MW will help you sort out Northern Italy. Igor Ryjenkov, MW will do the same for Germany's Pfalz region, home of treasured Opimian partner, Gerd Stepp.

Add to that Jacky Blisson, MW and Louise Wilson, MW who did the tasting and wrote the tasting notes for this issue, and you have your team of experts guiding you along.

As an Opimian Member, you benefit from the deepest knowledge for selection and wine education on the planet.

The Rizzello family of Le Vigne di Sammarco provide us with the Feature wine as well as the Founders Choice selection. The dry climate and sea breezes of Puglia result in delicious wines worthy of every cellar. Their top value Primitivo IGP Salento was a best seller last year.

Don't miss the section on wines from the Pfalz starting on page 12. Those who know and love German wine will agree that Stepp is remarkable. Jacky Blisson, MW agrees with you. If you haven't tried them, there is no better time than the present. Gerd's mixed case, Lot 4330, is a great way to sample these Coups de Coeur.

We have been receiving very positive feedback about our approach to 'Respect the past and embrace the future'. It's wonderful to hear that you are enjoying your old favourites as well as trying the new and wonderful wines we continue to find around the world.

Saluti!

Michael & Greg

COUPS DE COEUR....................................................................................................P7 CANADIAN CORNER...............................................................................................P8 CELLAR UP!................................................................................................................. P11 GERMANY..................................................................................................................................... P12 Gerd Stepp................................................................................................................................... P12 PUGLIA............................................................................................................................................P18 Paolo Leo....................................................................................................................................... P19 The Wine People....................................................................................................................P20 I Pàstini........................................................................................................................................... P21 SALENTO...................................................................................................................................... P22 Le Vigne di Sammarco....................................................................................................... P22 TOP VALUE WINES................................................................................................ P26 FARNETO......................................................................................................................................P28 Casal Farneto.............................................................................................................................P28 UMBRIA.........................................................................................................................................P30 Castello di Magione..............................................................................................................P30 VENETO.........................................................................................................................................P34 Antichello..................................................................................................................................... P35 Giovanna Tantini.....................................................................................................................P38 PROSECCO................................................................................................................................. P40 Zucchetto..................................................................................................................................... P42 FRANCIACORTA..................................................................................................................... P44 Villa Crespia................................................................................................................................P45 FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA....................................................................................................P48 Rocca Bernarda.......................................................................................................................P48 LOMBARDY - VALTELLINA...............................................................................................P49 Plozza..............................................................................................................................................P49 COLLECTOR’S CORNER...................................................................................... P50

4

CELLAR 306 — EDITORIAL

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.

Ordering Made Easy

Louise Wilson MW lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine based in Canada. She has over 20 years of experience in the wine and spirits industry.

Legend

1. SELECT YOUR WINES Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection.

Red - White - Rosé - Sparkling - Port/ Dessert - Spirit

Body Light - Medium - Full

Bottle size

Oak Light - Medium Heavy

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

Number of bottles in case

Organic2

Aroma

Vegetarian2

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Taste

Vegan2

Serving temperature

Top 10 Members' Choice

Percent of alcohol1

Medal winner

Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Louise Wilson MW : LW

1 2

Opimian.ca

Residual Sugar Dry = 0-10g/l Semi dry = 11-30g/l

Ideal with

Jacky Blisson MW: JB

Michael Palij MW: MP

Semi sweet = 3150g/l Sweet = 51+g/l Igor Ryjenkov MW: IR

The alcohol percentage value is subject to change before delivery.

This information is provided by our producers and may not reflect Canadian norms.

MemberService@Opimian.ca

1-800-361-9421

— CELLAR 306 MASTERS OF WINE

5

Trentino-Alto Adige Bolzano

e Riv

er

Dolomites

Valle d’Aosta

Adig

Alps

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Veneto

Milan

Verona

Lombardy Turin

Trento

Venice

Po River Ren o

Parma

Piedmont

Emilia Romagna Genoa

Riv

er

Bologna

ADRIATIC SEA

Liguria Florence Arno River

LIGURIAN SEA

Ap

Tuscany

en

Ancona

ni

ne

Marche

M

ou

Umbria e Tib

Elba

ive rR

nt a

Pescara

r

in Abruzzo s

Rome

Molise

Lazio TYRRHENIAN SEA

Volturno

Bari

River

Campania

Naples

Puglia

Sassari

Basilicata

Sardegna IONIAN SEA

Italy

Calabria

Cagliari

MEDITERRANEAN SEA Palermo

Sicily

Mount Etna Catania

THE MASTER PIECE

Getting To Know Northern Italy

By Michael Palij MW

What was different back in 1995? My hair was a shade darker as I drove my Alfa 156 through Soave, seeking to break the Rubicon that was giving the North a bad name. The reputation of its native wines hung squarely in the balance, and, although Elio Altare hadn’t raised a chainsaw in anger for some time, the general view was highly polarized: muscle-bound monoliths to curry favour with a certain American wine critic, or pile-it-high dishwater best reserved for large occasions or supermarkets.

Outside of a few stalwarts, producers who believed in either typicity or tradition were pretty thin on the ground. It was either an international grape variety or it had been aged in a barrique – otherwise, don’t bother.

6

CELLAR 306 — THE MASTER PIECE

How times have changed. The Veneto scooped forty-three tre bicchieri in 2023.

Not bad for a region that, when I first visited the whites had to be ‘ready before the harvest’, as one producer has put it. Stefano Inama’s Soave never fit the mould: 100% Garganega, oxidative handling and minimal intervention were – in the bad old days – a recipe for complexity that threatened the insipid status quo.

In the foothills of the Lessini mountains, Marinella Camerani quietly gets on with making Amarone as it should be.

One of the few remaining producers to continue the ancient practice of air-drying her grapes, she uses only the free-run juice extracted from the crush.

For maturation, she selects barrels made from local cherry wood, imparting a delicate flavour. The resulting wine is extraordinarily fresh and fluid, while retaining all the necessary weight and texture. This is about reassessing the value of the four local grapes – Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara, and Rondinella. None has great colour extract or tannin, but who’s counting? Anyone who has tried her Valpolicella knows that the delicacy and aromatic freshness is the real deal.

In Bardolino, former lawyer Giovanna Tantini is putting her own spin on these varieties. She’s ahead of the curve with her preference for Corvina, the most serious of the Bardolino grapes (getting it to perfect ripeness means that even her apricot-coloured Chiaretto is supremely delicate). As we walk through the vineyard on a crisp winter morning, she points out the large sassi (stones) deposited by the glaciers, eons ago. This soil type is a rare occurrence in Italy serving, with the assistance of a large dose of enthusiasm, to lift her estate beyond the ordinary. Formal recognition of the local terroir came in 2021; Bardolino was divided into three crus – Montebaldo, Sommacampagna, and,

MICHAEL PALIJ MW is the third Canadian Master of Wine. He specializes in Italian wines and has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.

COUPS DE COEUR

bordering Lake Garda, La Rocca, where Giovanna’s estate is situated. The drive to rebuild Bardolino’s reputation is especially encouraging.

We are sitting in Carlo Zucchetto’s house now, in the breath-taking hills of Valdobbiadene. He reminisces: ‘Before its ubiquity, Prosecco was an illustrious wine. It was poured on special occasions, rather like Champagne.’ The Jekyll & Hyde fizz can reach great heights, but location is paramount. There is no denying that the sprawling DOC, covering 30,000 hectares, churns out a steady stream of non-descript, lighthearted bubbly. Head for the hills, however, and there is a sea change in quality. The twin DOCGs of Asolo and Cogneliano-Valdobbiadene feature impossibly steep hills lined with bucolic terraces, producing wine of impressive pedigree. In 2017, the ConeglianoValdobbiadene landscape became a United Nations World Heritage site, and not for its wines.

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES

BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

DRINK NOW CASTELLO DI MAGIONE SANGIOVESE, UMBRIA IGT, 2021, LOT 4360, P30

ANTICHELLO VESPERO RED BLEND, ROSSO VENETO IGT, LOT 4370, P36

A vertical of Carlo’s bottle-fermented wines, from the renowned Cartizze subzone, reveals a wealth of vintage character. He puts the same care into his Extra Dry and Baccarat. If there is a region that has, through thick and thin, enjoyed an unfettered reputation for the quality of its sparkling wines, it is Lombardy’s Franciacorta. A relative newcomer to the party, it received DOC status in 1967, upgraded to DOCG in 1995[1]. While the grape varieties are distinctly French – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc[2] – it is by no means a carbon copy of the Gallic alma mater. Indeed, the rosé regulations are commendably more stringent than their Champagne equivalent. The icing on the cake, it must be said, is the Riserva category, which calls for a minimum 60 months’ lees ageing.

Public perception of what the north can achieve has improved immeasurably since I first visited Italy thirty years ago. The old bun fights to the bottom have given way to a realization that survival is all about trading up. Sure, the Prosecco wagon continues to steam on, but it pushes the high flyers to prove their mettle. Native varieties are flourishing: Valpolicella and Soave are once again gracing serious tables. If there is a downside, it is that even the coolest regions are feeling the heat – the scorching 2022 harvest is a timely reminder. Just as we have come to embrace Italy’s native grapes, so we have reached a crossroads for viticultural change. Pergola trellising, dismissed as old hat in the 1990s, is now vital for shading and unhurried ripening. Sometimes, the old ways are unequivocally better.

CELLARING POTENTIAL STEPP RIESLING SINGLE CRU CASE, LOT 4330, P14

ETTORE, IGT, 2016, LOT 4354, P39

[1] The DOCG upgrade wisely gave still wines their own DOC classification, Terre di Franciacorta (later Curtefranca).

Since 2017, 10% Erbamat is permitted. Once scorned, this local hero has usefully high malic acid levels.

[2]

— CELLAR 306 COUPS DE COEUR

7

CANADIAN CORNER FIND AN EVEN BIGGER CANADIAN SELECTION ONLINE! WWW.OPIMIAN.CA

3678

PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

Chardonnay

$ 37

$ 222

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in the glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028–lw

3848

FOXLY OPIMIAN SPECIAL RESERVE PINOT NOIR, BC VQA, 2020

Pinot Noir

$ 31

We first met proprietors Doug Barzelay and Nathan Todd on the recommendation of Michael Palij, MW, who tasted the Foxtrot wines at the annual Canada House tasting in London, England. We were fascinated by their passion for Pinot Noir – and the wine lived up to its stellar reputation. We are thrilled to be able to offer a limited parcel of the 2020 Foxly Opimian Special Reserve Pinot Noir to our Members and look forward to sharing more wines from the portfolio as they become available. A swirl of this delicately-hued wine releases a bouquet of cherry, red currant and plum wrapped in the warmth of toasty oak. The palate is notably concentrated with the red fruit profile evolving to flavours of strawberry, cranberry and plum. The barrel influence carries through with hints of cinnamon and clove, adding dimension. Light tannins and fresh acidity frame the core as the wine tapers off into a satisfying finish. 2023–2027–lw

11.5%

13%

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon

Cherry, red currant, plum, toasted oak

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]

Strawberry, cranberry, plum, cinnamon, clove

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli and a fresh greens salad

Wild mushroom risotto

Shipping fees may apply.

8

$ 186

CELLAR 306 — CANADIAN CORNER

4220

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

Pinot Noir

$ 46

4140

LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE TERROIR SERIES SAUVIGNON BLANC, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc

$ 276

$ 35

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars’ Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a single vineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundian style Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat.

Upon the first sip the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2023-2025–lw

MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT SAUVIGNON BLANC, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc

$ 210

A memorable wine made

by Nova Scotia’s first biodynamic winery. The bouquet transports one to a field of lavender and sweetgrass. The palate follows with additional flavours of melon and lime. A fine example of the elegance and high quality achievable in the Annapolis Valley. Only 298 cases produced.

2023-2025–lw

$ 27

$ 162

The fruit for the 2021 Meldville Barrel Select Sauvignon Blanc was harvested from mature vines of Lizak Vineyard in Beamsville. In this plot, exposure to the moderating effects of Lake Ontario provides the grapes extended hang time, allowing for the accumulation of maximum depth of flavour.

The result is a rich wine with a lemon hue and a leafy bouquet of lime and guava.

The concentrated palate delivers an array of citrus, melon and herb flavours.

Aging in neutral barrels adds a satisfying depth and texture as opposed to typical oak aromas and flavours. Less than 5 barrels produced. 2023-2025–lw

11.5%

12.5%

1031

3760

13%

Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat

Lavender, sweetgrass

Lime, guava, leafy

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Lavender, sweetgrass, melon, lime, [2.30]

Lemon, lime, melon, herb, [3.00]

Beef carpaccio

Grilled shrimp piccata

Seared scallops with grapefruit beurre blanc

Whisky

HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY

45%

Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie

Whisky

$ 60

Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel

$ 60

Allspice

JOIN THE HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB TO TASTE YOUR WHISKY EVERY YEAR AS IT AGES! LOT 3690

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw

— CELLAR 306 CANADIAN CORNER

9

CELLAR UP! WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

It's the height of summer and one of the most dangerous times for your wine if you're storing it in the kitchen or in the cabinet in the family room.

Large swings in temperature are the greatest enemy to the health of your wine as it awaits to be enjoyed.

That doesn't mean that you have to have temperature and humidity control (although that's optimal). Choose a place in your house where the temperature stays relatively constant, there is as little natural light as possible, and there is little vibration (those fancy installations attached to the underside of your stair riser that you see on Facebook are deadly).

More importantly, have a look at these wine suggestions.

They represent the variety of styles available to you for a balanced, comprehensive cellar. Cheers!

SPARKLING Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance ’84 PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG ASOLO BRUT, LOT 4355, P41

Prosecco was growing in popularity so quickly, low quality knock-offs were starting to enter the market. The Prosecco D.O.C. was created to protect this wine and ensure that the quality was not only maintained but improved. This one is affordable for every day of the week.

MEDIUM-BODIED WHITE White/light fish, sipping on its own CASTELLO DI MAGIONE MONTERONE, UMBRIA IGT, 2021, LOT 4359, P31

If you've had Orvieto, then you've tried Grechetto, the grape variety in this Umbrian refresher. If you haven't, you need to try some. Dry, medium-bodied with balanced acidity, serve it cold with a tuna steak or your favourite firm, fatty fish.

ROSÉ Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck GIOVANNA TANTINI BARDOLINO CHIARETTO, DOC, 2022, LOT 4352, P39

By far and away the best-selling Rosé in Opimian's history! This wonderfully fruity, well-balanced wine will disappear from your cellar quickly as you and you guests reach for another glass again and again.

MEDIUM-BODIED RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles ANTICHELLO VALPOLICELLA, DOC, 2022, LOT 4371, P37

The culinary zeitgeist has tended toward lighter fare of late. That means we all need lighter wines to pair. Here is a perfect selection for your cellar that will fit the bill. Incredible concentration for a lighter, youthful red. Delicious!

FULL-BODIED RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert ARPAGO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, I PÀSTINI, 2021, LOT 4349, P21

There is a place in your wine collection for some heavy Italian red. Yes, France does it well but Italy may just take the title here. Not just with Italian food (but with Italian food - Mamma Mia!). So much flavour! So affordable!

— CELLAR 306 CELLAR UP!

11

GERMANY Germany has a longstanding and well-merited reputation for quality winemaking. Once best known for sweet wines, the country is increasingly focused on drier wine styles. This is certainly the case in Germany’s second largest wine-growing region, the Pfalz. Located along the border with Alsace, the Pfalz enjoys very similar climate conditions. The Haardt Mountain range, an extension of Alsace’s Vosges Mountains, shelters the area from cool, wet weather. The Pfalz is therefore one of the sunniest and driest wine regions in Germany. Riesling is the major grape planted here, though Pinot vines in all their white and red iterations are also gaining in popularity.

GERD STEPP Pfalz native Gerd Stepp grew up in his family’s vineyards.

After a series of winemaking stints in New Zealand, Zimbabwe, Nigeria, Italy and South Africa, Stepp returned home armed with a wealth of experience. A seasoned marathon runner, Stepp applies the same determination to his winemaking. His goal is to craft terroir-expressive wines with unmistakable varietal typicity. Mission accomplished.

12

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — Romans were the first to grow grapes and make wine in the Rhine Valley - like here at the Römerkelter (Roman winery) in Ungstein.

NEW

4329

STEPP RIESLING HERXHEIMER HONIGSACK, PFALZ, 2022

Riesling

$ 28

$ 168

The Honigsack cru in Herxheim am Berg is located on a southeast facing slope at just over 200 metres altitude. The diverse, limestone-rich soils here and ideal exposure produce top quality grapes.

Piercing acidity gives a nervy, electric pulse to this medium-bodied Riesling. Lively citrus, orchard fruit and earthy flavours dominate. Finishes dry, with a pleasing zing of salinity. 2024-2029–jb

4332

STEPP PINOT NOIR, PFALZ, 2022

Pinot Noir

$ 25

4333

STEPP RIESLING, PFALZ, 2022

Riesling

$ 22

$ 150

This Pinot Noir is a blend of several terraced, slopeside vineyards with varied limestone and sandstone soils. While the single cru wines are aged for over 18 months in new and oneto two-year-old barrels, this cuvée is matured for a shorter period in tank and seasoned oak.

The result is a smooth, charming, early-drinking red wine with lively red fruit flavours and supple tannins. 2023-2027–jb

$ 132

This Riesling is sourced from two sites on the slopes of the Haardt Mountains. The limestone area gives rich, yellow fruit aromas, while the sandstone-based vineyard gives a nervy, mineral appeal. The just-released 2022 vintage is racy, dry and taut with lip-smacking flavours and lingering salinity. Needs a little time to soften. 2024-2028–jb

13.5%

12.5%

12.5%

Red plum, pomegranate, raspberry, floral

Yellow apple, nettle, lemon, flint

Apple, lemon, elderflower, white tea

Red berries, mocha, dried herbs

Green apple, lemon, earthy, saline, [5.00]

Apple, lemon, saline, [4.00]

Char siu pork

Wild Argentine shrimp cocktail

Citrus-poached whitefish

photo —The little flag tower above the vineyard terraces is locally called "Kaffemühlchen" which translates to "small coffee grinder".

— GERMANY GERD STEPP

13

4330

STEPP RIESLING SINGLE CRU CASE: 2 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 23

$ 138

The difference between Gerd Stepp’s single vineyard wines – made from the same grape, vintage and region – is astonishing.

This study of three crus from the 2022 vintage is a must buy for Riesling lovers!

STEPP RIESLING VOM SAUMAGEN (KALLSTADT), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2022

Riesling

STEPP RIESLING VOM KÖNIGSWINGERT (WACHENHEIM), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2022

Riesling

The Saumagen cuvée is full bodied and steely in structure, with bracing acidity and a restrained, tart fruit note. Flinty mineral aromas carry through on the palate translating as a lingering salinity on the finish. This is a taut, powerful dry wine that needs time to unfurl and reveal its full panoply of flavours.

2024-2030– jb

Riesling

In contrast with Saumagen’s limestone slopes, the Königswingert vineyard has stony, alluvial, sandstone soils. The subsoils are rich and deep providing plentiful access to water. The wine shows a slightly broader, more expansive mid palate with riper fruit flavours. Racy acidity lifts the wine and lengthens the dry, savoury finish. 2024-2030–jb

12.5%

14

STEPP RIESLING VOM MANDELGARTEN (DUERKHEIM), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2022

The Mandelgarten vineyard is home to Stepp’s oldest vines, grown on deep loam-loess subsoils. The site yields rich, concentrated Riesling. The 2022 vintage definitely fits this description. Ripe orchard and stone fruit flavours burst from the glass. The palate is broad and juicy, with nervy high acidity which perfectly balances the subtly off-dry finish. 2023-2029–jb

12.5%

12.5%

Flint, white grapefruit, apple, lime

Wild herbs, flint, green apple, earthy

Nectarine, apple, white flowers, earthy

Lemon, green herbs, apple, saline, [4.00]

Lemon, quince, apple, savoury, [3.00]

Apple, apricot, nectarine, raw honey, [3.00]

Roast pork with apple-mustard glaze

Pork medallions with fruit ragout

Crispy duck salad

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — Stepp's harvest team packing last year's Master Case wines.

NEW

STEPP PINOT NOIR SANDSTEIN RESERVE, PFALZ, 2021

STEPP PINOT NOIR STEINBERG (HERXHEIM), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2021

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

This wine is one of my favourites from this cellar. It combines the elegance, restrained earthiness and vibrant acidity of Burgundian Pinot Noir, with the vivid fruit and satiny texture of fine New Zealand examples.

The result is harmonious and dangerously drinkable. Medium in body, with supple tannins, and well-integrated hints of oak spice. Excellent value. 2023-2030–jb

Like the Sandstein, the Steinberg site is also southeast facing with sandstone subsoils.

The two cuvées are quite different, however.

The Steinberg is firmer in structure with slightly more pronounced tannins. Perfumed notes of tart red fruits mingle with savoury undertones on the nose and palate. Hints of licorice and oak spice persist on the fresh, dry finish. 2023-2030–jb

13.5%

13.5%

Pomegranate, rhubarb, raspberry, tea leaf

Red currant, plum, orange zest, earthy

Strawberry, raspberry, plum, dried herbs

Tangy red fruit, licorice, plum, savoury hints

Porcini mushroom risotto

Pan-seared salmon

4331

STEPP PINOT NOIR CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: SANDSTEIN RÉSERVE AND STEINBERG (HERXHEIM)

$ 29

$ 174

Germany is the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir. Quality has risen dramatically in recent years and top examples, like these single-vineyard wines from Gerd Stepp, are absolutely delicious.

HAVE A SIP OF THESE PINOT NOIR TITANS

— GERMANY GERD STEPP

15

FOCUS ON PFALZ

Getting To Know Pfalz

By Igor Ryjenkov, MW

Mosel and Rheingau, rightly or wrongly, often take the lion’s share of the limelight when it comes to German wine. But overlooking the other regions comes at your own peril as a savvy wine consumer. Let’s take Pfalz, our topic today, a region with one of the warmer climates in the country, offering a broad range of wines thanks to that, as well as the culture of good food and living well.

While the large tracts of vineyards are dedicated to supplying the volumes of Liebfraumilch, or value supermarket offerings – apparently, every third bottle of wine sold domestically comes from Pfalz - the top sites worked by quality-driven estates are producing some of the best wines in the country, both dry and off-dry. The most representative regional styles of wines tend to be fuller than in areas in the north, with higher must sugar requirements here to qualify for Kabinett, Spatlese, etc. levels than further down the river.

The region’s milder climate and the less dramatic topography than Mosel or parts of Rheingau allow for greater range of planting, quality, volume and style options. Its wine output is roughly a third red, making it the largest red-producing region

Among other things, the region is known for the world’s largest wine festival in the town of Bad Durkheim, and the first and the best-known wine route in Germany, Deutsche Weinstrasse. The people here know how to have a good time sharing the local affinity to fine cuisine with its neighbour to the south, Alsace, and wine festivals moving from town to town from mid-spring, when the almond trees bloom, until late November.

As much as a third of the wine production is sold directly to consumers, in a significant part thanks to the festivals and winery shops along the wine route. If it sounds like a visit to the region might be fun in the middle of the growing season, it is because it indeed would be – good food, lovely weather, local hospitality and a broad range of delicious, full-some wines. But if the trip here is not quite in the cards, enjoying Pfalz through its wines at home is the next best thing. However you do it, it is certainly worth getting to know Pfalz.

CELLAR 306 — FOCUS ON PFALZ

IGOR RYJENKOV MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. He is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine.

With over 23,000 ha under vine, Pfalz is the second largest wine-growing region of the 13 in Germany, exceeded only by its northern neighbour, Rheinhessen. It runs for about 85 kilometres from the border with Alsace in France, to the town of Worms in the north, roughly following the Rhein River but not straddling it. Instead, it is nestled in the plains and rolling hills between the river in the east and sheltered by the forests of the Haardt Mountains, the continuation of the Alsace’s Vosges Range, in the west.

16

in Germany, with red grapes Dornfelder and Spatburgunder as 2nd (12%) and 5th (7%) in the planted area stats. Riesling, while still very important at the top with a 24% share, is not as dominant as in some other regions. Pinot Gris, Blanc, Silvaner, Kerner, Muller-Thurgau and the aromatic Morio-Muscat, Gewürztraminer and Scheurebe, among others, make up the region’s palette.

4334

STEPP PINOT BLANC/PINOT GRIS CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH

$ 21

$ 126

Though both are mutations of the same Pinot variety, Pinot Gris and Blanc are quite different in character. White wine enthusiasts will love the opportunity to compare these two signature grapes from the Pfalz.

A GREAT MIXED CASE OF TWO SIGNATURE PINOT GRAPE VARIETIES

STEPP PINOT BLANC, PFALZ, 2022

STEPP PINOT GRIS, PFALZ, 2022

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Gris

Pinot Blanc can be quite neutral when overcropped or planted on unsuitable sites. This is not the case here. Though discreet, the nose offers attractive green fruit, nutty and mineral aromas. The palate is sleek and very focused with crisp acidity throughout.

A crisp, light-bodied dry white with excellent varietal typicity. 2023-2026–jb

An enjoyable Pinot Gris with a broad, rounded palate and soft finish. Fragrant aromas of baked yellow fruit gain in complexity as the wine opens revealing nutty, floral and spiced hints. These flavours carry over on the fresh, medium-bodied palate. Versatile, foodfriendly white. Great for subtly spiced dishes.

2023-2026–jb

13%

13%

Green apple, pear, almond, wet stone

Baked yellow pear, honeysuckle, almond

Green apple, lemon, herbal, saline, [4.00]

Pear, melon, mixed spice, saline hints , [4.00]

Choucroute garnie

Mildly spiced white wine-steamed clams and toast points

photo —Lida, Alex and Carl picking Cabernet Franc grapes on final day of the 2022 vintage.

— GERMANY GERD STEPP

17

ITALY

PUGLIA Located in Italy’s southeastern tip, the border of Apulia (Puglia in Italian) is largely coastline surrounded by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. Inland, Apulia is flanked by the regions of Molise, Campania and Basilicata. It is not only famous for its breathtaking beaches but also its olive trees, its fresh orecchiette pasta and, of course, its wine. The warm Mediterranean climate is ideal for producing fullbodied red wines from local red grape varieties such as Primitivo, Susumaniello and Negroamaro. White wines in Apulia are made from a range of varieties including Trebbiano, Verdeca and Chardonnay.

18

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — The fourth and fifh generation working together at Paolo Leo.

PAOLO LEO For Paolo Leo, winemaking is a family affair which dates to the beginning of the twentieth century. Today the estate and its two wineries are managed by Paolo, his wife Roberta and their sons Nicola, Stefano, Francesco and Alessandro. The wineries are located in southern Puglia, in two of the region’s most famous appellations: Salice Salentino and Primitivo di Manduria. The family is committed to environmental, social and economic sustainability and aims to produce wines with elegance, finesse and a sense of place.

4337

TRIADE ROSSO DI PUGLIA, NEGROAMARO, PRIMITIVO, NERO DI TROIA, PUGLIA IGP, 2021 Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero di Troia

$ 19

$ 114

A full-bodied blend of three of Puglia’s indigenous varieties with a profile of smoky cherry, strawberry, raspberry and plum. Half of the wine is matured for one year in French and American oak barrels providing a note of baking spice throughout. Juicy acid and pliable tannin provide good structure to the ample fruit core. 2023-2025– lw 13.5% Cherry, raspberry, plum, smoke, spice Plum, raspberry, strawberry, spice Herb-roasted goat with potatoes

4338

PASSO BARONE, VINO ROSSO D'ITALIA, 2021

Sangiovese, Primitivo, Merlot

$ 19

$ 114

The 2021 Passo Barone, a medium-bodied blend of Sangiovese, Primitivo and Merlot, delivers fantastic value. This floral and fruity wine has the scent of violet, cherry, raspberry and strawberry. This pure red fruit flavour carries forward to the palate with highlights of strawberry, raspberry and pomegranate.

Bright acidity and polished tannin perfectly balance the fruit core. 2023-2024–lw 14.5% Violet, cherry, raspberry, strawberry Strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate Spaghetti with Marinara sauce

— ITALY PAOLO LEO

19

THE WINE PEOPLE

PRIMO PRIMITIVO!

4340

INTEGRO NEGROAMARO, PUGLIA IGP, ORGANIC WINE, 2022

Negroamaro

4339

CARLOMAGNO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, APPASSIMENTO, 2022

Primitivo

$ 19

$ 114

The Carlomagno Primitivo is made with the “Il giro del Picciolo” technique where the stalk of each fully ripe bunch is carefully twisted preventing the vine from continuing to provide nourishment. Over the course of 12 days, this causes a 25-30% water loss, amplifying the grape’s flavour. The result is a generous wine with the aroma of plum, blueberry, raspberry and oak spice, followed by flavours of plum, blueberry, blackcurrant and vanilla.– lw

20

COLPASSO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, 2022

Primitivo

$ 19

$ 114

This organic, vegan-friendly wine is made from 100% Negroamaro grown in the picturesque Salento region of Puglia. Ripe blue and black fruits with accents of herb and spice carry through from the initial aroma to the off-dry finish.

Plentiful fruit and moderate tannin make this crowd pleaser an ideal match for a cheesy, deep-dish pizza.

2023-2024–lw

14%

4341

13.5%

$ 19

$ 114

Made from 100% handharvested Primitivo which was grown in the Leverano area of Puglia’s Salento Peninsula. A full-bodied wine with a profile of strawberry, plum, raspberry and fig supported by a touch of spice and herb. Smooth tannin and a pop of acidity provide structure. Enjoy now and over the next three years. 2023-2026–lw

14%

Plum, blueberry, raspberry, oak spice

Blueberry, blackberry, herb, spice

Strawberry, plum, raspberry, fig, spice, herb

Ripe plum, blueberry, blackcurrant, vanilla

Blueberry, blackberry, herb, spice

Strawberry, plum, raspberry, fig, spice, herb

Provolone

Cheesy deep-dish pizza

Linguine with sundried tomato sauce

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

NEW

4349

ARPAGO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, I PÀSTINI, 2021

Primitivo

$ 30

VERSO SUD SUSUMANIELLO, PUGLIA IGP, I PÀSTINI, 2021

Susumaniello

$ 180

The early ripening Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel in California. This full-bodied wine opens with a smoky cherry and violet nose followed by flavours of cherry, strawberry and raspberry. A great pair for sticky BBQ ribs, baked beans and corn on the cob.

2023-2025– lw

4348

4350

MACRAMÈ PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, I PÀSTINI, 2021

$ 26

$ 156

The Carparelli family protects the purity of fruit flavours in their wines by harvesting their grapes by hand and placing them into small boxes. The Verso Sud is a unique wine made from the rare Susumaniello variety.

Its perfume is reminiscent of plum, blackberry, raspberry and vanilla. A chorus of ripe black fruit flavours, vanilla, black pepper and a touch of herb follow on the palate.

2023–2026–lw

Primitivo

$ 21

$ 126

The 2021 Macramè Primitivo is an Opimian Member favourite with mouth-filling fruit and plush approachable tannin. A swirl of the glass releases smoky plum and blackcurrant aromas. The first taste reveals ripe flavours of raspberry, cherry, blueberry and blackberry. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

2023-2026–lw

14%

14%

Cherry, violet, smoke

Plum, blackberry, raspberry, vanilla

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Blackberry, blackcurrant, vanilla, black pepper, herb

BBQ ribs with baked beans and corn

Grilled top sirloin with blackcurrant sauce and rapini

I PÀSTINI 14% Plum, blackcurrant, smoke Raspberry, cherry, blueberry, blackberry

I Pastini was established by the Carparellis in Puglia’s Itria Valley in 1996.

Their first seven years were spent replanting their 15-hectare vineyard with cuttings from the region’s ancient vines before their first harvest could be realized in 2003. This commitment to authenticity is the core of the family’s philosophy – to use a combination of traditional practices and modern technology to create high-quality wine.

Parmigiana di melanzane

photo —Flat as a pancake and boasting an iron-rich soil, Puglia's Valle d'Itria is perfect for vine - and trulli!

— ITALY I PÀSTINI

21

ITALY

SALENTO The wine-growing territory of Salento spans the peninsula of land in southern Puglia where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian Sea. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) is an Italian regulatory term for region-wide origin designations. Wines labelled as IGT can include grapes sourced from vineyards across the named region. The Salento IGT is blessed with a hot, dry Mediterranean climate cooled by steady sea breezes. Grapevines thrive in these ideal conditions. While white, rosé and sparkling wine are also made here, red wine is the major feature. The major red grapes include Primitivo and Negroamaro. Both produce hearty, full-bodied wines.

LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO The Rizzello family has a long history of grape growing in the Salento region of Puglia. In the 1970s, Franco Rizzello decided to produce his own wine, breaking with a long-held tradition of supplying grapes to the local cooperative. Today, the wines of Le Vigne di Sammarco are appreciated around the world. The winery focuses on local grape varieties expressive of Salento’s unique terroir.

4315

NOTTETEMPO CHARDONNAY, SALENTO IGP, 2022

Chardonnay

$ 21

$ 126

This off-dry style of Chardonnay is vinified in stainless steel and oak to highlight the fruit while giving additional richness of texture.

Baked yellow fruit, sweet citrus and floral hints define the nose. The palate is broad and smooth, with lingering honeyed fruit and earthy undertones. 2023-2025–jb

14% Yellow apple, nectarine, lemon curd, linden

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

Honey, peach, melon, earthy, [9.00] Grilled seabream with citrus

22

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — Marco Rizzello posing with the Vigne di Sammarco staff.

The Salice Salentino DOP is a small growing area in the centre of Puglia’s Salento peninsula. Its powerful red wines are considered among the best of the region, notably its oak-aged Riserva tier.

SALICE SALENTINO DOP, 2021

4316

LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO SALICE SALENTINO CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 19

$ 114

SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA DOP, 2019

Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera

Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera

A blend of mainly Negroamaro with Malvasia Nera aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve its forward, fruity character. Heady notes of baked and dried dark fruit feature on the nose. The palate is full-bodied with abundant dark fruit, herbal flavours.

Finishes reasonably fresh with a firm tannic frame. 2023-2027–jb

The Salice Salentino Riserva cuvée is aged two years before bottling, with a nine-month period of this time spent in seasoned oak barrels. This Negroamaro-dominant Malvasia Nera blend is weightier than its unoaked counterpart, with more prominent earthy, savoury undertones.

Brisk acidity and fine-grained tannins bookend the fruity, velvety palate. 2024-2029–jb

13.5%

13.5%

Plum, prune, barnyard, dried flowers

Baked red cherry, plum, savoury, earthy

Plum, prune, cocoa, dried herbs

Plum, raspberry jam, chocolate, baking spice

Lentils and sausages

Asiago-stuffed fried bombette pork rolls

photo —Everyone is ready for the harvest!

— ITALY LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

23

NEW

4318

SOMIERO SUSUMANIELLO SALENTO IGP, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2020

Susumaniello

$ 27

$ 162

Susumaniello is a very rare red grape variety grown almost exclusively in Salento.

It is generally used in blends bringing deep colour and pleasing plum flavours. The Somiero 2020 is full bodied and earthy, with sinewy tannins that give a taut, chiselled quality to the palate. Finishes with off-dry flavours of dried red and dark fruit. Ready to drink. 2023-2027–jb 15% Baked plum, blueberry, earthy, floral hints Dried red and dark fruit, savoury, earthy Wild boar ragù

4317

GUARANO, APPASSIMENTO DA UVE SELEZIONATE, NEGROAMARO, SALENTO IGP, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE, 2021 Negroamaro

$ 26

$ 156

The Negroamaro grapes for the Guarano cuvée are left to hang on the vines into the month of October. This extended ripening period concentrates grape sugars leading to intensely ripe, velvety wines. This 2021 cuvée is redolent of baked and stewed dark fruit flavours. Fresh acidity, muscular tannins, and lingering earthy, tobacco-type notes frame the fruit and temper the off-dry finish. 2024-2028–jb 15% Baked cherry, blueberry jam, floral, chocolate Plum, dark chocolate, sweet tobacco, earthy Troccoli with veal, beef and pork

24

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

4319

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA DOP, 2021

Primitivo di Manduria

$ 22

$ 132

The Primitivo di Manduria appellation stretches from the town of Taranto along Salento’s western coast for some 40 kilometres. Primitivo thrives in this hot, dry area buffeted by marine breezes from the Gulf of Taranto. This is a much firmer, more tannic wine than the Salento Primitivo.

It offers tangier dark fruit flavours and a deeper, more concentrated core. Needs time to soften. 2025-2030–jb 14% Black cherry, plum, forest floor, baking spice Black cherry, plum, cocoa, baking spice Braciole di manzo

NEW

4320

ARCHÈ PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA DOP, BARRIQUE, 2017

Primitivo di Manduria

$ 35

$ 210

The Archè Primitivo di Manduria is certainly no wallflower. From its weighty bottle to its powerful palate structure, this is a big wine. The nose offers mixed earthy, dark fruit and oak-aged aromatics. The palate is muscular and firm with brisk acidity and a concentrated core of sweet fruit, smoke, exotic spice and dark chocolate. Sweetness lingers on the finish. 2025-2030–jb 15% Black plum, sandalwood, truffle, nutmeg Prune, candied cherry, smoky, dark chocolate Stewed shoulder of spring lamb with rosemary, walnuts and gremolata

— ITALY LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

25

LOOK FOR TOP-VALUE INDESIO PINOT GRIGIO ONLINE, LOT 4346

4321

LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO MALVASIA BIANCA AND VERDECA CASE: 6 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 12

$ 144

Malvasia Bianca and Verdeca are two signature white grape varieties in Puglia, each very different in style.

Malvasia gives aromatic, rounded wines while Verdeca is more crisp and mineral.

MALVASIA BIANCA, SALENTO IGP, 2022

Malvasia Blanca

VERDECA, SALENTO IGP, 2022

Verdeca

The 2022 vintage Malvasia Bianca is heady with ripe yellow fruit aromas.

Notes of apple and pear are replaced with tropical fruit nuances as the wine opens. The palate is smooth and rounded, with honeyed pineapple flavours that carry through on the subtly off-dry finish.

A supple wine for everyday drinking.

2023-2025– jb

Verdeca is often used as a secondary blending grape in Puglia, though it can definitely hold its own as a single varietal wine. This 2022 vintage is initially shy on the nose. Hints of ripe yellow fruit and wet stone emerge with aeration. The palate is fresh and light with pleasant salinity on the off-dry finish. Drink now.

2023-2025– jb

13%

26

CELLAR 306 — ONTARIO

13%

Baked apple, pear, pineapple, earthy

Apple, lychee, mango, wet stone

Pineapple, honey, ripe lemon, almond, [8.50]

Melon, yellow apple, saline, [7.00]

As a Tuesday evening sipper with sashimi

Pan-fried sole with mango salsa

TOP VALUE 4323

PRIMITIVO, SALENTO IGP, 2022

WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING

Primitivo

$ 13

$ 156

The Puglian Primitivo grape and Californian Zinfandel are both clones of the same ancient Croatian variety, giving them a very similar character. This 2022 Salento Primitivo is fleshy and full bodied with heady baked and dried dark fruit flavours, mingled with baking spice and herbal accents. Finishes with velvety tannins and a well-integrated hint of residual sugar. 2023-2027–jb

4324

NEGROAMARO, SALENTO IGP, 2022

Negroamaro

$ 12

$ 144

This unoaked Negroamaro is fresh and smooth with dark fruit flavours underscored by smoky hints of tar. The flavours are tangy with good lift on the finish, lengthening the slightly powdery textured tannins. Subtle bitterness adds to the food-friendly nature of this early-drinking red wine. 2023-2027–jb 13.5% Black cherry, plum, tar, earthy

4322

Cherry, plum, sweet tobacco

ROSATO, SALENTO IGP, 2022

Sauteed sausages with bell peppers and onions

Negroamaro

$ 12

$ 144

An attractive, medium-bodied rosé made from the Negroamaro grape. The nose is brimming with citrus and floral notes underscored by hints of pepper. Crisp, juicy acidity gives a lively character to the palate.

A touch of residual sugar adds to the glossy, smooth texture without weighing down the fresh finish. 2023-2025–jb 13.5%

13% Pink grapefruit, hibiscus, white pepper

Dried cherry, plum, potpourri, baking spice

Tangy red fruit, wild herbs, savoury, [8.00]

Baked plum, cherry, prune, dried herbs

Seafood cavatelli

Agnolotti ragù

— ITALY TOP VALUE WINES

27

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

NEW ITALY

LE MARCHE NEW PRODUCER

Casal Farneto Named for the majestic Farneto oak trees that line the property, the 35-hectare estate of Casal Farneto was established in Le Marche in 1995. Over the following 17 years, the founders, led by Paolo Togni, applied their vast experience to renew the vineyards and restore the winery. In 2012, the first wines, created in collaboration with renowned oenologist Franco Bernabei Crisio, received top scores from the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso. Since 2017, the winery has been entirely owned and operated by the Togni family.

4342

COLLEQUIETO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO, 2022

Verdicchio

$ 20

$ 120

Verdicchio, the flagship grape variety of Casal Farneto winery, is grown on the hills of their southwest-facing vineyards in the heart of the Castelli di Jesi appellation. This is a medium-bodied, unoaked wine with delicate aromas of orange blossom, apple, almond and peach. On the palate, an appealing beam of salinity illuminates the citrus and stone fruit core. Lively fruit and bright acidity make this a terrific match for a creamy cheese such as burrata. 2023-2025–lw 13% Orange blossom, apple, almond, peach Peach, grapefruit, lemon zest, saline Creamy cheeses such as burrata

28

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

NEW

4343

NEW

COLLEQUIETO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOC, 2021

4345

Montepulciano

$ 21

COLLEQUIETO LACRIMA DI MORRO D'ALBA DOC, 2021

Lacrima

$ 21

$ 126

Made from grapes grown a mere 10 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, the Collequieto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a medium-bodied wine with a liberal aroma of blackberry, grilled plum and freshly turned earth. The palate is brimming with notes of ripe black raspberry and grilled plum while a whisper of baking spice adds a layer of complexity. Overall, a well-balanced wine with lively acidity and approachable tannin in harmony with its fruit core. 2023-2025–lw 13.5% Blackberry, grilled plum earth Black raspberry, grilled plum, baking spice

$ 126

13.5% Raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, talc Raspberry, blueberry, blackberry Lamb tagine with apricots and za’atar

Casal Farneto is one of only 20 producers making wine from the incredibly rare Lacrima grape. Also referred to as “the red Gewürztraminer,” this highly aromatic variety provides a delightfully unique experience. The opaque ruby purple hue foreshadows the richness of aromas and flavours to follow. A perfumed bouquet of raspberry, blueberry, blackberry and talc is followed by the same juicy berry flavours wrapped in moderate well-integrated tannin. 2023-2025–lw NEW

Lasagna with meat sauce

4344

COLLEQUIETO ROSSO PICENO DOC, 2021

Sangiovese, Montepulciano

$ 22

$ 132

A full-bodied wine crafted from a blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano. A combination of fresh and dried red fruit adorns the nose with highlights of cranberry, raspberry, strawberry and red plum. The core has good structure with bountiful strawberry, cranberry, raspberry and thyme flavours lifted by a judicious tannic grip. An ideal match for a robust main such as beef and mushroom stew. Great value! 2023-2027–lw 13.5% Cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, red plum Strawberry, cranberry, raspberry, thyme Beef and cremini mushroom stew

— ITALY CASAL FARNETO

29

ITALY

UMBRIA Umbria is known as the “green heart of Italy” due to its central location and lush vegetation. The region is landlocked surrounded by Tuscany to the northwest, Lazio to the southwest and Marche to the east. It is approximately a two-hour drive north from Rome to Umbria’s capital city of Perugia. The Umbrian terroir is influenced by the Apennine Mountains which frame it to the east and the Tiber River which cuts through the region’s center. In the west, Italy’s fourth largest lake, Trasimeno, moderates the temperatures of the surrounding vineyards. Umbria is best known for its crisp white wines from the Orvieto DOC and its powerful reds from the DOCG Montefalco di Sagrantino.

CASTELLO DI MAGIONE The historic Castle of Magione, originally established as a hospital for travelling pilgrims, has been producing wine since the Middle Ages. The property’s hilly vineyards lie within the Colli del Trasimeno appellation of Umbria, stretching 250 to 350 metres above sea level. Here a blend of indigenous and international grape varieties is grown including Grechetto, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Nero.

4360

CASTELLO DI MAGIONE SANGIOVESE, UMBRIA IGT, 2021

Sangiovese

$ 18

$ 108

A cellar-worthy expression of Sangiovese with a deep ruby purple hue and a generous bouquet of ripe red and black cherry, violet, fig and thyme. As the palate unfolds, layers of raspberry, cherry, spice and leather are revealed. With a firm tannic grip, ample concentration and a satisfying finish, the 2021 Castello di Magione Sangiovese delivers excellent value. 2023-2033–lw 14.5% Red and black cherry, violet, fig, thyme Raspberry, cherry, spice, leather Pizza Margherita

30

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — Vine pruning at Castello di Magion

NEW

4359

CASTELLO DI MAGIONE MONTERONE, UMBRIA IGT, 2021

CASTELLO DI MAGIONE MORONETO, UMBRIA IGT, 2020

Merlot, Sangiovese, Pinot Nero

Grechetto

$ 24

4361

$ 144

Made from Grechetto, one of Umbria’s star grape varieties, this mediumbodied wine offers an intriguing bouquet of almond, citrus, green apple, melon and floral aromas.

This complexity carries forward on the palate with flavours of almond, green apple, melon, pesto and mineral. If you enjoy crisp, dry unoaked white wines, this is one to add to your cellar. 2023-2025–lw

$ 21

$ 126

The Castello di Magione Moroneto is lighter bodied than its Morcinaia sibling due to Pinot Nero replacing Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Its bouquet is a harmony of smoky black cherry, raspberry and black earth which transitions to a fruit-led palate of red and black cherry, plum, chopped basil and a touch of clove.

Refined tannin provides a slight grip. 2023-2025–lw

14%

4362

CASTELLO DI MAGIONE MORCINAIA, UMBRIA IGT, 2019

Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 33

$ 198

The 2019 Castello di Magione Morcinaia is an impressive fullbodied blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The bouquet invites with tiers of violet, cherry and mint aromas. The palate is undeniably pure fruited with flavours of ripe blackberry, blackcurrant, plum and a touch of mint shining through. With firm, well-integrated tannin, this is a generously structured wine with the concentration and balance to continue to evolve for another eight years or more. 2023-2031–lw

14%

14.5%

Almond, citrus, green apple, melon, floral

Black cherry, raspberry, black earth, smoke

Violet, cherry, mint

Almond, green apple, melon, pesto, mineral

Red and black cherry, plum, basil, clove

Blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, mint

Pan-seared marinated ahi tuna steaks with honeyed herb and lemon

Roast turkey breast with plum-apricot sauce

Grilled ribeye with a red wine-mushroom sauce

photo —Castello di Magione has been producing wine since the Middle Ages.

— ITALY CASTELLO DI MAGIONE

31

In celebration of Opimian’s 50th Anniversary we have created an exclusive line of Summer Grilling Packages plus à la carte gourmet foods to complement both your palate and cellar.....heck, we even designed you, a bespoke Opimian vintage leather apron; for 50 more years of wonderful memories to come !

Randolph Duke Head Maître D’

Please come and pay us a visit at

LeMaitreD.com or order by phone at

1-888-947-2282

Q&A

Antichello Named after a fictional character from 19th or early 20th century literature, “Antichello” is described as a naughty, witty boy with magical talents – the likes of David Copperfield combined with Peter Pan. Antichello wines are modern in style with fresh dark fruits. Created and owned by the Begnoni family, the winery is in Pedemonte close to Verona.

Luciano Begnoni, owner and manager of the winery, answered our questions.

How did you get started in the wine business? When and why was Antichello founded?

must be coherent, forward seeing and meant to last. Finally, as I always say, the very best wine is yet to be produced.

Santa Sofia winery was founded in 1811, but we have produced wines in the area since 1300. The Begnoni Family, which runs the business today, acquired the winery in 1967.

What is one of your favourite varietals to work with and why?

What is special about winemaking in the Veneto?

The region has a long history of winemaking. It offers many opportunities, as we have many different microclimates, terroirs and native varietals, giving us the opportunity to produce wines wellknown for their quality around the world, along with the possibility to experiment with different styles.

Which winemaking techniques do you use? What do you enjoy most about being a winemaker?

As we offer different wines from the region, we use several different winemaking techniques.

Our winemaker aims to represent the identity of the land and of this historic winery. It is a challenging job, as each harvest has different conditions. The region also offers many opportunities to experiment and create products which

The traditional grapes from Valpolicella, which are Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. These are beautiful varietals and they give life to the most important wines of this region.

Which winemaking traditions, if any, are most important to you?

Amarone della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso and Recioto della Valpolicella, which are the most typical, well-known and ancient wine traditions here.

What is one of the hardest things about winemaking year in and year out?

Each harvest is different and it is always challenging to get the best from every vintage, trying to make wines that coherent with the denomination and with our style.

Our Masters of Wine particularly enjoyed Antichello Vespero Red Blend and made it one of their ‘Coup de Coeur (favourites).

Can you tell us more about this wine?

This wine is made with Corvina (60%) with a brief Appassimento process

(drying of the grapes) for about 40 days, and 40% of a blend of native red grapes.

The wine produced exclusively from the Corvina is aged in big barrels of Slavonian oak.

Blends are usually creative wines, and they can be the best opportunity for the winemaker to express their creativity. We try to produce original and eclectic products but at the same time portraying the typicity of our region. That’s why we chose only native varietals, playing with the winemaking techniques.

What is your most memorable wine or wine-tasting experience?

Back in 2017 we had the opportunity to present a 12-litre bottle of Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011 to Japanese Princess Hisako Takamado, for a charity event with 1000 guests, and it was a very exciting moment.

Is your winery open for visitors? How can Opimian Members get in touch?

Yes, we organize tours and tasting from Monday to Saturday, you can find details here: https://www.storiedivalpolicella.it/ tour-e-degustazioni or you can write us at comunicazione@santasofia.com

— CELLAR 306 Q&A

33

ITALY

VENETO

Veneto, situated in the northeast corner of Italy overlooking the Adriatic Sea, is home to several famous Italian wine regions. Some of the area’s best-known reds are those of Valpolicella, including the amplified expressions of Ripasso and the iconic wines of Amarone.

Bardolino, extending from the shores of Lake Garda, is found here too, recognized for its moreish red wines and lip-smacking Chiaretto rosato.

Veneto is a fantastic place for white wine and sparkling wine lovers as well. The mineral- and citrus-driven wines of Soave and the muchloved bubbles of Prosecco are celebrated examples.

34

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

ANTICHELLO

NEW

Over 50 years ago, the Begnoni family established themselves in the tradition of winemaking with the acquisition of the renowned Santa Sophia Estate in Pedemonte, Veneto. It is from this rich history that Giancarlo and Luciano Begnoni created the wines of Antichello in 2006. Their philosophy is to offer fresh and approachable wines that are the ideal match for Italian cuisine.

4366

4374

Garganega blend

$ 21

$ 126

An expressive wine perfumed with notes of peach, apricot, nectarine and white blossoms. Its medium-bodied frame is packed with flavours of lime, lemon, green apple, almond and mineral. If you enjoy a crisp Pinot Grigio or mineral-decked Chablis, this is one to try. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with light fish dishes such as Parmesan-crusted tilapia. 2023-2025–lw

ANTICHELLO SOAVE, DOC, 2022

Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave

$ 20

ANTICHELLO BIANCO, VINO DA TAVOLA, NV

11.5%

$ 120

Peach, apricot, nectarine, white blossom Lime, lemon, green apple, almond, mineral, [4.00] Parmesan-crusted tilapia

4367

ANTICHELLO PINOT GRIGIO DELLE VENEZIE, IGT, 2022

Pinot Grigio

$ 20

A wine with loads of personality scoring extra points for its concentration, complexity and balance. The scent of white blossom, peach, green apple and grapefruit invites the first sip where layers of stone fruit, citrus and mineral intermingle. A fine example from this popular Italian white wine region. 2023-2025–lw

$ 120

The 2022 Delle Venezie Pinot Grigio is a perfect example of Antichello’s promise to deliver fresh and easy-drinking wines. Its fruity aromas reflect notes of peach, apricot and nectarine which transition into flavours of peach, green apple and white grapefruit.

This is a well-balanced wine with zesty acidity and a satisfying finish. 2023-2025–lw

12%

12%

White blossom, peach, green apple, grapefruit

Peach apricot, nectarine

Peach, nectarine, apricot, lime, lemon, apple, grapefruit, minerality, [3.50]

Peach, green apple, white grapefruit, [3.00]

With hors d’oeuvres

Salmon tartare in endive cups

— ITALY ANTICHELLO

35

NEW

4368

ANTICHELLO FRESCO ROSÉ, VINO DA TAVOLA, NV

ANTICHELLO BARDOLINO, DOC, 2022

Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

Corvina Blend

$ 21

4369

$ 126

Personally, I enjoy rosé all year round: I find it a refreshing, flavourful and flexible style of wine. The Antichello Fresco Rosé stood out for me as a fantastic example delivering amazing value. Its pretty aromas and vivid flavours are reminiscent of rose, strawberry, cherry, plum, chalk and talc. A notably complex wine, likely a result of the myriad grape varieties that contribute to its blend. 2023-2025–lw

$ 21

$ 126

The 2022 Antichello Bardolino is a wellbalanced wine with a bouquet of smoky cherry, raspberry and earth. Lively FRESH AND flavours of APPROACHABLE raspberry, WINES rhubarb and cherry complemented by a pop of chopped basil are framed by moderate, accessible tannin. Serve slightly chilled to highlight this wine’s fruity appeal.

2023-2025– lw NEW

11.5%

12%

Rose, strawberry, cherry, plum, talc

Smoky cherry, raspberry, earth

Strawberry, cherry, plum, chalk, [3.00]

Raspberry, rhubarb, cherry, basil

Crab dip and crostini

Salumi board with dried fruits and nuts

4370

ANTICHELLO VESPERO RED BLEND, ROSSO VENETO IGT, NV

Corvina with blend of native grapes

$ 25

$ 150

This enjoyable blend of indigenous Italian grape varieties transports one to a Venetian bacari to raise a glass while watching the gondolas float by. The bouquet is layered with aromas of violet, cherry, strawberry, earthy plum and baking spice. The bright red fruit and oak spice of the bouquet carries through to the palate where it is offset by a touch of dried fruit and leather. Both the acid and tannin are well integrated, creating a seamlessly smooth mouthfeel. 2023-2028–lw 14% Violet, cherry, strawberry, plum, earth, baking spice Strawberry, cherry, raspberry, baking spice, leather Ricotta-spinach tortellini and red sauce

36

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

4371

ANTICHELLO VALPOLICELLA, DOC, 2022

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 27

$ 162

Crafted from grapes grown in the picturesque Valpolicella hills located north of Verona, this flavoursome pour offers fine balance, good concentration and a satisfying length. Ample red fruit graces both the nose and palate. Enjoy over the next two years to capture this wine’s youthful, energetic appeal. 2023–2025–lw

4372

ANTICHELLO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO, DOC SUPERIORE, 2020

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 33

$ 198

Made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone, this wine’s notable depth of flavour is achieved by a five-day refermentation on Antichello’s Amarone pomace as well as six to eight months maturation in oak. This medium-bodied, ruby-hued wine opens with a bouquet of violet, cherry, strawberry and plum. On the palate, flavours of strawberry, cherry and pomegranate are backed by a dash of oak spice and supported by moderate, well-integrated tannin. 2023-2026– lw

12%

14%

4373

ANTICHELLO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, DOCG, 2019

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella

$ 57

$ 342

This wine’s impressive depth of flavour is a result of drying the grapes for three months prior a long slow fermentation. Two years of maturation in large Slavonian oak barrels and a further six months in bottle encouraged the development of its engaging complexity. The bouquet references red berries, plum, raisin and violet while the palate offers ripe red fruits offset by a hint of crushed herb. 2023-2028– lw

15%

Strawberry, cherry, cranberry, plum

Violet, cherry, strawberry, plum

Strawberry, raspberry, raisin, violet, plum

Strawberry, cranberry, cherry, raspberry

Strawberry, cherry, pomegranate, spice

Strawberry, raspberry, plum, crushed herb

Veal scallopini with Marsala-wild mushroom sauce

Venison stew with cherry tomatoes on polenta

Bistecca alla Fiorentina with roasted potatoes and vegetables

photo —Enjoy Antichello Valpolicella with veal scallipini with a wild mushroom sauce!

— ITALY ANTICHELLO

37

ITALY

VENETO

Giovanna Tantini

A family run winery since the early 1900s, the Giovanna Tantini estate overlooks Lake Garda in the province of Verona. The wine is exclusively produced from the estate’s 11.5 hectares of vineyards which benefit from the property’s well-drained alluvial soils. Giovanna oversees every step of the winemaking process from limiting of yields through green harvesting to a strict grape selection process which eliminates all but the very best fruit. If there was a single word to summarize her winemaking philosophy, it would be quality.

NEW

4351

GIOVANNA TANTINI CUSTOZA, DOC, 2021

12.5% Stone fruit, grapefruit zest, apple, chalk smoke

Garganega, Trebbianello, Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay

$ 25

$ 150

Pear, apple, grapefruit, white peach, mineral, [0.30] Antipasti

An intriguing medium-bodied, unoaked blend of Garganega, Trebbianello, Trebbiano Toscano and Chardonnay. The bouquet is both savoury and fruity with the interplay of smoky stone fruit, grapefruit zest, apple and chalk. Highlights of mineral weave through the fruit core which recalls flavours of pear, apple, grapefruit and white peach. If you are drawn to the nuanced minerality and structure of a good Chablis, this is one to try. 2023-2025–lw

38

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — Giovanna standing outside her winery-cum-B&B near Lake

Garda. Thinking of travelling to the Veneto? Stay with Giovanna!

NEW

4354

ETTORE, IGT, 2016

Corvina, Merlot

$ 36

LOVE GIOVANNA'S ROSÉ? TRY HER NEW WINES!

$ 216

NEW

4352

GIOVANNA TANTINI BARDOLINO CHIARETTO, DOC, 2022

Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara

$ 22

$ 132

An Opimian Member favourite made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

A pretty, rose-coloured hue heralds floral and fruity aromas of cranberry, raspberry, violet and talc.

A sip reveals a bright strawberry, cranberry and raspberry fruit core which trails into a mineral-laced finish. An ideal match for fennel and saffron cioppino.

2023-2024– lw

4353

GIOVANNA TANTINI MA.GI.CO. GARDA CORVINA, DOC, 2021

Corvina

$ 26

$ 156

The MA.GI.CO. Garda Corvina is a new addition to the Giovanna Tantini portfolio – and a new offer for Opimian Members. Its vibrant and youthful style is achieved by careful hand-selection for optimal fruit, a short period of carbonic maceration prior to fermentation and maturation in stainless steel. Serve chilled to accentuate its red berry flavours. 2023-2024– lw

12.5%

12.5%

I believe that anything made with love tastes better, and Giovanna Tantini’s Ettore, the wine she has dedicated to her son, is an excellent illustration of this idea. Made from a blend of appassimento Corvina Veronese and fresh Merlot grapes, this memorable wine is beginning to blossom into maturity. Its scent is complex with an attractive combination of red berries, oak spice, leather and wildflowers. The concentrated red fruit of the palate harmonizes with notes of clove and nutmeg from 24 months in French barrique, while the fine-grained tannin has had the time to integrate, providing a seamless framework. 2023-2029–lw 14.5%

Cranberry, raspberry, violet, talc

Cherry, red plum, leather, earth

Strawberry, cranberry, oak spice, leather, wildflowers

Strawberry, cranberry, raspberry, mineral, [2.40]

Cherry, cranberry, strawberry, earth

Strawberry, raspberry, plum, clove, nutmeg

Fennel and saffron cioppino

Fritto misto of scallops, shrimp, oysters and squid

Osso buco with risotto alla Milanese

— ITALY GIOVANNA TANTINI

39

PROSECCO

Prosecco continues to grow in popularity as wine lovers around the world are no longer waiting for a special occasion to pop a bottle of bubbly. Prosecco is made using the Martinotti Method where the bubbles of a second fermentation in autoclave are trapped in the wine. Until 2020, Prosecco was exclusively a white wine; however, in response to the increasing demand, the category of Prosecco Rosé was established three years ago. Like Champagne and other sparkling wines, Prosecco is produced in a range of sweetness levels: from Brut Nature (under three grams per litre of residual sugar) to Demi-Sec (with residual sugar ranging from 32-50 grams per litre).

40

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

photo — The gently rolling hills of Asolo boast some of the Veneto's most exclusive Glera vineyards.

4355

’84 PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG ASOLO BRUT

Glera

$ 22

$ 132

Founded in the heart of the Asolo DOCG in 1984, this cuvée is fermented and bottled exclusively for Opimian from select Glera grapes and is such good value that we are not allowed to share the name of the estate!

Like so many of Opimian's producers, rest assured that it is a small, family affair.

The '84 Prosecco Asolo Superiore is a very likeable, medium-bodied sparkler expressing flavours of green apple, almond and mineral that trail into an appealing, offdry finish. 2023-2025–lw

11.5% Green apple, almond, mineral, lemon, chalk Green apple, almond, mineral, lemon, [9.00] White asparagus with Hollandaise

— PROSECCO THE WINE TRADERS

41

ZUCCHETTO Located an hour’s drive from Venice, the Zuchetto winery is perched on top of Cima hill in the prestigious Valdobbiadene region of Veneto. Established in 1918 by Cesare Zucchetto, the winery is currently led by the family’s second and third generation.

Paolo, the son of Cesare, manages the vineyards, while his own son, Carlo Alberto, focuses on making the family’s world-class Prosecco. Can’t decide if you enjoy Prosecco or Prosecco Rosé more?

With this exclusive Opimian Member mixed case, now you won’t have to.

4356

ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE, DOCG, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2022 Glera

4357

ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, ROSATO PROSECCO, DOC TREVISO, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2022

Glera, Pinot Nero

$ 31

$ 186

The 2022 Zucchetto Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Prosecco is a very likeable glass with an intriguing bouquet of apple, peach, honey, sweetgrass and white blossoms. Stone and orchard fruit carries through to the mid palate before tapering off with a hint of sweetness on the finish. 2023-2025–lw

$ 31

Made in the premium Treviso region, this cheerful glass of Prosecco is a blend of Glera and Pinot Noir. Behind its vivid pink hue, look for notes of strawberry, peach, cherry and spring blossoms underpinned by mouthwatering acidity. A great match for salmon sashimi or seafood ceviche. 2023–2025–lw

11.5%

42

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

$ 186

12%

Apple, peach, honey, sweetgrass, white blossoms

Strawberry, peach, cherry, spring blossoms

Apple, peach, honey, [9.00]

Strawberry, peach, cherry, [9.00]

Oysters al forno with artichokes

Salmon sashimi or seafood ceviche

photo — The hills in the DOCG zone of Valdobbiadene

are much steeper than one might think.

4358

ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE/ ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, ROSATO PROSECCO TREVISO CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 31

$ 186

CAN'T DECIDE BETWEEN THE SUPERIORE OR THE ROSATO? GET BOTH IN THIS MIXED CASE!

ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE, DOCG, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2022

Glera

ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, ROSATO PROSECCO, DOC TREVISO, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2022

Glera, Pinot Nero

The 2022 Zucchetto Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Prosecco is a very likeable glass with an intriguing bouquet of apple, peach, honey, sweetgrass and white blossoms. Stone and orchard fruit carries through to the mid palate before tapering off with a hint of sweetness on the finish. 2023-2025–lw

Made in the premium Treviso region, this cheerful glass of Prosecco is a blend of Glera and Pinot Noir. Behind its vivid pink hue, look for notes of strawberry, peach, cherry and spring blossoms underpinned by mouthwatering acidity. A great match for salmon sashimi or seafood ceviche. 2023-2025–lw

11.5%

12%

Apple, peach, honey, sweetgrass, white blossoms

Strawberry, peach, cherry, spring blossoms

Apple, peach, honey, [9.00]

Strawberry, peach, cherry, [9.00]

Oysters al forno with artichokes

Salmon sashimi or seafood ceviche

photo —Carlo Zucchetto keeping a watchful eye on proceedings in his gravity-fed winery.

— ITALY ZUCCHETTO

43

ITALY

FRANCIACORTA If you enjoy high-quality sparkling wines such as Champagne and Cava, Franciacorta is one to experience. The appellation earned its DOC status in 1967 and was the first traditional-method sparkling wine in Italy to be awarded its DOCG status in 1995. Located in the province of Brescia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region, Franciacorta produces

44

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

both white and rosé sparklers from Chardonnay, Pinto Bianco, Pinto Nero and Erbamat. After the second fermentation in bottle, non-vintage Franciacorta is required to rest on its lees for a minimum of 18 months. This maturation period is extended to a minimum of 30 months for vintage expressions.

photo — Michela Muratori giving Opimian Managing Directors

Greg and Michael a tour of the Franciacorta terroir.

VILLA CRESPIA Established by the Muratori family in Franciacorta in 1999, Villa Crespia is named for a historical wine that was produced in the region in the Middle Ages. The wines are made exclusively from the fruit of the property’s 57 hectares of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Sustainability is at the heart of the family’s philosophy: vineyard management follows an organic regime, while the gravity-fed winery is energy self-sufficient due to the use of solar power.

EXPERIENCE FRANCIACORTA: THE CHAMPAGNE OF ITALY

NEW

4376

VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA MILLÈ BRUT MILLESIMATO, FRANCIACORTA DOCG, 2016

Chardonnay

$ 43

$ 258

Even with seven years under its belt, the 2016 Villa Crespia Franciacorta Millè Brut Millesimato remains youthful and energetic. Its floral and fruity bouquet is reminiscent of spring flowers, lemon, green apple and talc. The palate is texturally alive with fine persistent bubbles supporting flavours of lemon, almond and apple layered with hints of lees and mineral. 2023–2025– lw 12.5% Spring flowers, lemon, green apple, talc Lemon, almond, apple, lees, mineral, [10.00] Negroni sbagliato aperitivo

— ITALY VILLA CRESPIA

45

12.5%

VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA MIOLO BRUT, DOCG

Bread dough, toasted almonds, apple Lemon, green apple, baked goods, [10.00]

Chardonnay Butter chicken

$ 36

4377

4378

$ 216 1500ml

$ 100 $ 100

Renowned oenologist Riccardo Cotarella has been consulting with the Muratoris to produce their award-winning wines since 2000.

46

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

The family considers this collaboration “a new path” for the winery. The Chardonnay grapes of the Miolo Brut Franciacorta have been grown on clay soil allowing for optimal flavour through slow maturation. A bouquet of bread dough, toasted almonds and apple leads the way for the flavours of citrus, orchard fruit and baked goods, ending in a satisfying length with a pleasant off-dry finish. 2023-2026– lw

IMPRESS YOUR GUESTS WITH THESE FLAGSHIP FRANCIACORTAS

4379

VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA SIMBIOTICO AND CISIOLO CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 44

$ 264

A mixed case of two of Villa Crespia’s flagship Franciacortas – one made with Pinot Noir, the other Chardonnay.

NEW

VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA CISIOLO, DOCG, DOSAGGIO ZERO

VILLA CRESPIA FRANCIACORTA SIMBIOTICO BRUT BIOLOGICO, FRANCIACORTA DOCG

Chardonnay

Pinot Noir

The Muratori family considers the Cisiolo their most challenging wine – Franciacorta made from 100% Pinot Noir with no dosage. While zero dosage sparkling wines are currently enjoying the limelight, the winery has been producing this style from their first harvest. The firm acidity of this wine gives ample structure to its core while flavours of cranberry, strawberry and thyme mirror those of the bouquet. 2023–2025–lw

An outstanding wine made from 100% organically grown Chardonnay grapes with no added sulfites. The developing bouquet offers a union of red apple, baked bread and savoury lees aromas. The mineral-driven palate is a flavour journey of green apple and lemon notes which transition into a toasty, wheat finish. High scores across the board for balance, length, intensity and complexity. 2023–2026–lw

12.5%

13%

Talc, violet, cranberry, strawberry, thyme

Red apple, baked bread, lees

Cranberry, strawberry, thyme, [2.00]

Mineral, green apple, lemon, wheat, toast, [2.00]

Icelandic cod with morels and asparagus

Sushi-grade tuna tartare with ginger and kettle potato chip garnish

photo —Organically grown vineyards in front of the winery.

— ITALY VILLA CRESPIA

47

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is situated in the northeast of the country flanked by Austria to the north, Slovenia to the east, Veneto to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the south. The area is best known for its white wines, including the local specialties Picolit and Friulano alongside international grapes such as Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. The region’s red wine vines include the indigenous Pignolo and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso alongside the global cultivars Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In addition to this wide range of still wine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and the neighbouring region of Veneto are also home to Italy’s most famous sparkling wine: Prosecco.

4363

ROCCA BERNARDA REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO, FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI DOC, 2020

Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso

$ 22

48

CELLAR 306 — ALBERTA

ROCCA BERNARDA PIGNOLO, FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI DOC, 2017

Pignolo

$ 132

This interesting local variety offers a foral and fruity bouquet with notes of raspberry, plum, black cherry, violet and rose. The flavourful, well-balanced palate provides generously concentrated fruit supported by velvety tannin. Will pair well with braised lamb shanks or tomato-based pasta dishes. 2023-2026– lw

ROCCA BERNARDA Rocca Bernarda has been making wine in the Colli Orientali del Friuli Venezia Giulia for more than 450 years.

The undulating hills of vineyards are comprised of a unique sand and marlsandstone soil called “ponca” which contributes to the wines’ characteristic finesse and minerality. The estate is considered the birthplace of the native grape variety Picolit and produces the standard against which other expressions are measured.

4364

13%

$ 35

$ 210

A deeply coloured wine with plush plum, raspberry, blackcurrant and violet aromas. The ripe red and black fruit expression carries through to the palate where it is complemented by the essence of sage. Maturation for 18 months in French barrique adds complexity with a brush of light spice.

Consider as an alternative to Zinfandel. 2023-2025– lw

13.5%

Raspberry, plum, black cherry, violet, rose

Plum, raspberry, blackcurrant, violet

Raspberry, plum, black cherry

Plum, raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant, sage, spice

Red wine-braised lamb shanks with rosemary

Slow-braised wild boar ragù with pappardelle

photo — The terraced vineyards in Friuli, also called 'Ronchi'.

NEW

4380

NEW

ROSSO DI VALTELLINA DOC, 2018

Nebbiolo

$ 28

4381

LOMBARDY - VALTELLINA

GRUMELLO RED EDITION VALTELLINA SUPERIORE DOCG, 2017

Nebbiolo

$ 43

$ 168

Rosso di Valtellina wines are made for earlier consumption, providing great value and easy drinkability. This 2018 cuvée is incredibly vivacious with its lip-smacking acidity and tangy dark fruit flavours. Pleasing herbal and earthy nuances provide a layer of complexity that lingers on the finish. Still quite taut on the finish. Cellar briefly or decant for greatest enjoyment. 2024-2029–jb

$ 258

Valtellina Superiore wines can be produced from five villages deemed to have superior terroir.

These steep, south-facing slopes allow the grapes more direct sun exposure, increasing ripening.

The 2017 Red Edition was one of my standout wines from this cellar. Vivid aromatics, vibrant freshness, and fine-grained tannins combine to yield a very harmonious, long-lived Nebbiolo with fine structure and lots of finesse. 2023-2030–jb

13.5%

14%

Black cherry, plum, thyme, pepper

Red cherry, almond, rose petal, eucalyptus

Plum, cherry, thyme, earthy

Dried cherry, plum, nutty, mixed herbs

Standing rib roast with plum-port sauce

Roasted bone marrow with olive oil-brushed crostini

photo — Andrea and Loris Zanolari head the Plozza winery in Lombardy.

The vineyards of Valtellina are nestled in the Italian Alps near the Swiss border in the region of Lombardy.

Winemaking is an ancient art here, dating to the first millennium.

Despite this, the region is little known internationally owing to its small size and the fact that most of its wines are consumed locally. The major grape here is Nebbiolo, the same variety grown on the best sites in neighbouring Piedmont. In Valtellina however, Nebbiolo often goes by the local synonym: Chiavennasca. The vineyards are perched at high altitudes on slopes so steep that terraces and retaining walls are required.

PLOZZA Plozza is a traditional Lombardy winery with a long-established history of producing high-quality Valtellina wines. Due to the steep vineyard terrain, all vineyard work is carried out manually by skilled labourers.

These painstaking efforts have earned Valtellina’s grape growing the title of “heroic viticulture.” Time honoured techniques are combined with modern winemaking technology at Plozza to yield elegant, age-worthy Nebbiolo wines.

— ITALY PLOZZA

49

NEW

4383

N°1 NUMERO UNO IGT, 2018

Nebbiolo

$ 101

$ 303

The Numero Uno cuvée is aged in small French oak barrels rather than the traditional seasoned chestnut casks used for Plozza’s other wines in this cellar. This brings a bit more heft and toasted-oak spice to the wine. The nose has a pretty florality, while the palate is fruitier and more savoury. Brisk, tannic and full-bodied, this is a bolder style of Nebbiolo. 2024-2028–jb 17% Cherry stone, plum, marzipan, dried rose Dried red and dark fruit, earthy, herbal A5 Wagyu ribeye with Gorgonzola cream sauce

NEW

4365

ROCCA BERNARDA PICOLIT, COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI DOCG, 2018

Picolit

$ 58

$ 174

An absolutely delightful dessert wine made with the appassimento technique of grape drying to concentrate flavour and sweetness.

Its deep gold hue leads the way to an alluring bouquet of peach, apricot, candied ginger and citrus, while the rich core overflows with flavours of peach, apricot, nectarine and honey.

The 2018 Rocca Bernarda Picolit is a perfect way to end a special meal. 2023-2026–lw 13% Peach, apricot, candied ginger, citrus Peach, apricot, nectarine, honey, [178.00] Pan-seared foie gras and caramelized figs

50

CELLAR 306 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

NEW

4382

CINQUANTA 50 IGT, 2013

ITALIAN ART IN A BOTTLE

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

Nebbiolo

$ 59

$ 177

Valtellina is known for both its classic red wines and its appassimento style, whereby grapes are allowed to raisin after harvest to concentrate flavours and acids. The Cinquanta cuvée combines fresh and dried grapes to yield a bold, perfumed red wine.

Though already ten years of age, this 2013 shows a pleasing brightness of fruit that lifts the complex flavours nicely. Finishes dry with harmonious smoky, savoury nuances. Drinking well now. 2023-2028–jb 14% Orange peel, red cherry, plum, truffle Almond, dried cherry, tobacco, savoury Spezzatino di Manzo (Italian beef stew) served over polenta

— CELLAR 306 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

51

Web Exclusives Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

4335

CRAFT 3 MALBEC, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA - BY GERD STEPP, 2022

Malbec

4325

MALVASIA NERA, SALENTO IGP, 2021

Malvasia Nera

$ WEB Globetrotting winemaker Gerd Stepp is not only a deft hand at Germanic winemaking, he also produces excellent wines in Argentina’s Mendoza region.

This full-bodied red wine hails from the high-altitude Uco Valley sub-zone, an area prized for its elegant, floral Malbec. The palate is glossy and rich, with lingering dark fruit, chocolate and spice flavours. 2023-2027–jb

$ WEB Malvasia Nera is generally a secondary blending component in Negroamaro red wines. Here, the grape is vinified alone to showcase its individual character. Intense notes of baked dark fruit and chocolate leap from the glass. The palate is robust and tannic, with similarly jammy dark fruit and hints of bitter cocoa. Finishes off-dry. 2024-2027– jb

13.5%

52

CELLAR 306 — WEB EXCLUSIVES

13.5%

Baked cherry, cassis, licorice, violet

Chocolate, baked black cherry, floral

Dark plum, cassis, dark chocolate, licorice

Plum jam, baked cherry, cocoa

Pan-roasted venison loin with elderberry sauce

Orecchiette with ragù maiale

NEW PRODUCER

MONTE CASTELON NEW

4384

NEW

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOC, MONTE CASTELON, 2021

4385

VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CLASSICO SUPERIORE DOC, MONTE CASTELON, 2019

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara

Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara

$ WEB

$ WEB

From this classic vintage comes an unoaked, crisp and gorgeously refreshing red with notes of strawberry, raspberry, cranberry, and rhubarb.

On the palate there is fine acidity to define the bright fruit and the gentlest of tannins that wouldn’t say a word if this were served slightly chilled on a hot summer’s day. It has excellent length and incredibly bright, precise flavours. 2023-2025–mp

12 %

Delicate and elegant with a complex nose of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, cranberry) allied to black fruit (plum, cherry, mulberry) floral notes (hawthorn, rose) and spice (liquorice and cedar) from 6 months’ ageing in 2nd and 3rd fill French barriques.

Acidity and tannins are perfectly judged and this rolls on and on in the mouth; it’s classically proportioned and delicious.

2023-2027–mp

13.5 %

NEW

4386

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOCG, MONTE CASTELON, 2018 Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara

$ WEB A reference for the Valpolicella region and an object lesson in balance. This is superb with the high level of alcohol never even remotely making its presence felt. Medium in colour, and sporting a huge nose of griottes, dog rose, camphor, liquorice, wild strawberry, cedar, clove, pomegranate, raspberry, mulberry, dark chocolate and fig this offers a huge range of aromas wrapped up in the silkiest of tannins and Alpine acidity. Huge length and the potential to develop well for a decade. 2024-2032–mp 15.5 %

Strawberry, raspberry, cranberry

Red and black fruit, floral notes, spice

Griottes, clove, pomegranate and dark chocolate

Red fruit, currant, bramble

Red and black cherry, plum and liquorice

Dog rose, camphor wild strawberry, cedar

Duck with cranberry-based sauce

Prime sirloin of beef with fricassee of spring vegetables and smoked almond purée

Filet mignon with porcini mushroom compound butter

— CELLAR 306 WEB EXCLUSIVES

53

NEW

4346

INDESIO PINOT GRIGIO, DELLE VENEZIE DOC, 2022

4375

ANTICHELLO ROSSO, VINO DA TAVOLA, NV

Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone, Merlot

Pinot Grigio

$ WEB

$ WEB A light-bodied unoaked Pinot Grigio with a clean dry finish.

This wine’s initial appeal is its delicate scent of lemon, green apple, white peach and grapefruit. These aromas transition to similar flavours on the palate. Refreshing and approachable, the 2022 Indesio Pinot Grigio makes the ideal aperitif. 2023-2024–lw

The Antichello Rosso is a medium-bodied blend with a delicate bouquet of cherry, plum, fig and earth.

Cherry and plum flavours carry forward to the palate where a note of basil adds complexity. A harmonious wine with a moderate tannic grip and juicy acidity supporting its core. Pour a glass to accompany a platter of salumi and your favourite hard chesses. 2023-2025–lw

SOLEMNIS PRIMITIVO, SALENTO IGP, 2020

Primitivo

4326

4327

12%

$ WEB 1500ml

$ WEB

The Solemnis Primitivo is aged for six months in French oak before bottling. The nose offers mainly earthy, savoury nuances with baked fruit emerging slowly. The palate is powerful and grippy, with mouthwatering acidity. Finishes subtly off-dry. Cellar for one to two years further or decant an hour before serving. 2024-2029–jb 14.5% Earthy, savoury, baked dark fruit, prune Mixed dark fruit, subtly smoky, dried herbs Chicken cacciatore

54

CELLAR 306 — WEB EXCLUSIVES

11.5%

Lemon, green apple, white peach, grape-fruit

Cherry, plum, fig, earth

Lemon, green apple, white peach, grape-fruit, [0.70]

Cherry, plum, basil

As an aperitivo

Salumi and formaggio with balsamic, agliata and pesto

MIXED CASE 3634

CANADIAN CORNER FIND AN EVEN BIGGER CANADIAN SELECTION ONLINE! WWW.OPIMIAN.CA

KARLO ESTATES VAN ALSTINE CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: VAN ALSTINE WHITE & VAN ALSTINE RED

$ WEB

THREE BOTTLES EACH RED & WHITE

KARLO ESTATES VAN ALSTINE RED, PROPERTY GROWN, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, 2019

Frontenac Noir

KARLO ESTATES VAN ALSTINE WHITE, PROPERTY GROWN, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, 2019

Frontenac Blanc

$ WEB The opaque ruby core of this unique fortified wine foreshadows the depth of flavour to come. The generous bouquet is reminiscent of black cherry jubilee and dark chocolate, both of which would be ideal pairings.

Rich and satisfying notes of blackberry jam and fruitcake crowd the palate before trailing into a long finish with a slight herbal essence. 2023-2029–lw

375 ml

$ WEB

Hidden gem alert! Looking to elevate a special dinner or searching for the perfect gift? Consider Karlo Estate’s fortified wines. The Van Alstine White is made from the extremely rare Frontenac Blanc grape whose existence is the result of a spontaneous evolution of a Frontenac Noir vine in the Karlo Estate vineyards. A delicious and unique wine with layers of lime, honey, peach and cel-ery aromas and stone fruit, honey and crème brûlée flavours. 2023-2025–lw

17.5%

17.5%

Dark chocolate, black cherry jubilee

Lime, honey, peach, celery

Blackberry jam, plum, fruitcake

Peach, apricot, honey, crème brûlée, [95.00]

German dark-chocolate molten lava cake with raspberry coulis

Almond crème brûlée

— CELLAR 306 WEB EXCLUSIVES

55

Refer

A FRIEND and GET REWARDED! Refer a friend to Opimian and both of you will receive a case of Castello di Magione Moroneto, Umbria IGT, 2020, from this Cellar. Go to page 31 for the full description!

THE REFER A FRIEND PROGRAM IS BACK WEB AND BETTER THAN EVER!

! p u Pop

1 complimentary case for you and your friend with promo code OPIMIAN50 Over 700 wines exclusive to Opimian, tasted and curated by our Masters of Wine

HOW DO I REFER MY FRIENDS?

Meet Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

3 wine programs to chose from

1. Direct your friends to Opimian.ca/jointheclub/

Germany’s awarded winemaker Online tastingsmost with Masters 2. Have them sign up of Wine and winemakers with your In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from Themember Wine number included in the Wine education Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to registration form.

Travel Opportunities announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant 3. Remind them to Get a friend to joinmiss Opimian winemaker.

Don’t this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoringadd wines, as they code usually the promo and each of you will get a OPIMIAN50 at sell out in recordwine. time! case of Opimian checkout.

Have them use Only at Opimian.ca beginning February 27.

OPIMIAN50 at checkout and we’ll LIMITED TIME – LIMITED QUANTITIES – WEB ONLY do the rest.

300-2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8 OPIMIAN.CA