C312-QC: CHILE, ARGENTINA, ALSACE AND LANGUEDOC

ORDER JAN 9 - FEB 12, 2024

Thierry, Charlie, and Paulina Villard of Villard Fine Wines

Elevated Wines from Elevated Vineyards

By Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

When you turn to the Masterpiece on page 4, you'll notice that the article is about the recognition that the quality of South American wines is on the rise globally. As an Opimian Member, you're way ahead of the game. You've known it for years and have benefited from that knowledge in the past. The benefit continues...

Stalwart partners in wine, Lorca, Echeverria, La Rosa, and Villard brought smiles to the faces of our Masters of Wine as they tasted through the samples for this Cellar. The highest-scoring wines that get included here have continued to impress - both in quality and in value. The same holds true for the Alsatian wines in this Cellar. Where else produces a Grand Cru that you can drink any night of the week and feel good about it?

So what's new? Perpetual innovator, Mauricio Lorca, has purchased yet another winery - this one in the Uco Valley of Argentina - and given us first advantage to offer these wines to you. Look for Pequeñas Parcelas, Unique Terroir Wines in the online bottle shop at www.opimian.ca.

Also, in what some might consider a coup, the Procurement Team found Gassac. In addition to their exceptional wines on pages 42-46, we secured a small, exclusive allotment of their internationally celebrated 'Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge'. This wine, in Collectors Corner, rivals the most famous and respected wines of France. The Cabernet Sauvignon forward blend also includes twenty rare grape varieties!

As you are reading this, several dozen fellow Opimian Members are touring the sites that you are reading about. Instead of featuring a trip to Chile on its own this year, we decided Argentina deserved some of our love as well. Without exception, our winemaking partners welcome us with open arms and provide hospitality that truly feels like family. Have a look at other travel opportunities later this year on page 9.

Let's all raise a glass to the joy of wine!

Michael & Greg

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Toronto-based Igor Ryjenkov MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 year in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly, in projects, most notably, developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix. Igor is one of Opimian’s Masters of Wines.

Ordering Made Easy

1. SELECT YOUR WINES

Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER

There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST

The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Michael Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.

Louise Wilson MW: LW Jacky Blisson MW: JB Michael Palij MW: MP Igor Ryjenkov MW: IR

The Rising Global Appeal of South America’s Premium Wines –From Mendoza to the Valley’s of Chile

By Michael Palij MW

One thing is certain about South American wines: they deserve to be taken seriously.

Viñedo Chadwick, Chile’s most expensive wine, currently has an average price of US$327 and earns an aggregate score of 94 points from leading critics[1]. In comparison, Bordeaux's Pétrus is priced at US$4421, with a slightly higher score of 96 points. So, for your US$4094, you either get an extra two points or can purchase an additional 12 bottles of Chile’s flagship red.

To make this a fair fight, the heavyweight from Argentina, Nicolás Catena’s top drop, Estiba Reservada, is still a quarter of what Pétrus will charge. Chadwick – no parvenu - is a seasoned campaigner of 23 vintages and 10,000-bottle yearly output (still not huge – only a third of the Pétrus average). Furthermore, the 2021 was released on La

Place de Bordeaux to a gluttony of superlatives and scored a perfect 100 points from The Wine Advocate's Luis Gutiérrez. What isn’t to like?

Why the low valuation? Several factors are at play. There are differences in production costs that contribute towards South American wines offering better value than their European counterparts. While transportation and packaging outlay tends to remain consistent globally, labour costs vary massively. A vineyard worker in Chile, for instance, will earn approximately US$9 per day, compared to US$11 per hour for a worker in France. And this is before examining either the value of the brand or the vineyards from which it comes. Pétrus has an unalienable sense of place and nothing in either Argentina or Chile has the glittering lineage dating back half a century.

Cheap land, a soft labour market (Viñedos Chadwick takes the matter seriously and has a documented sustainability policy covering employees) [2] and weak currencies all work in South America’s favour but the natural potential of this region is enormous.

According to Jancis Robinson, vineyards over 500 meters in Europe are the exception to the altitude rule as they are prone to unreliable ripening[3]. This is where South America scores big. The Andes are a gigantic rain shadow offering spellbinding viticultural conditions. At Mauricio Lorca’s Vista Flores vineyard in the Uco Valley, a combination of poor soils, low humidity, and a consistent macroclimate allow for ripening even at 1000m (as impressive as this is, the vineyards in Salta, in Argentina’s northwest corner, can reach 2000m and still perform – Merlot is planted here[4]).

Altitude brings higher natural acidity and fuller flavour, while ‘higher radiation can make photosynthesis more efficient and plants healthier’ [5] Mendoza is at such altitude that winemakers need worry less about insects and bacteria that would otherwise be an issue. Vineyards can reach ripe old ages - Lorca’s vines can be centenarian. Phylloxera gets short shrift, too. It is only sporadic in Argentina, and non-existent in Chile, so that producers need not invest in grafted vines.

The sum of these advantages is genuine quality at a lower price point which, unsurprisingly, has attracted some of the wine world’s most prestigious names including both Lurton and Rothschild. Argentina and Chile have made Malbec and Carmenère, respectively, their own in ways that France perhaps cannot. But such a division for its own sake is crude: what has taken place over the last 40 years is a synergy of talents that bridges the hemispheres.

Thus, one has Paul Hobbs venturing to Chile in the late 1980s before being lured to Argentina by Nicolás Catena’s brother, Jorge, and forging the beginnings of Malbec as a premium concept although it was Attilio Pagli, the Tuscan wizard, who made the first export Malbec for Catena in 1994[6]

Chilean Carmenère shares a similar timeline. It was mistaken for Merlot until J.M. Boursiquot identified it correctly in 1994 (DNA profiling confirmed his conclusions in 1997)[7]. Thereafter, its stock rose considerably. Carmenère plays a minor role in the spectacular Rothschild/Concha y Toro Almaviva blend, but really comes into its own as a monovarietal elsewhere: a late-ripener, Carmenère loves Chile’s beach-bum climate and responds with plush, warm flavours.

This is the New World by name if not by nature. Vines of great age bear testimony to origins in pre-phylloxera Europe, the expertise is truly international, and really it is only the climate and the economy that remind one of the distance from Paris or London. It’s a shame that Chile and Argentina find it hard to shake off the happy-go-lucky supermarket image but for canny consumers there is bona fide prestige to be found, and at very favourable prices.

[1] https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/vinedo+chadwick+maipo+valley+chile

[2] https://errazuriz.com/pdf/policy_en.pdf

[3] https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-highest-vineyards-in-theworld

[4] https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-highest-vineyards-in-theworld

[5] https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-highest-vineyards-in-theworld

[6] https://worldoffinewine.com/news-features/catena-argentina-mostinfluential-wine-estate

[7] Robinson, Jancis, et al. Wine Grapes, Allen Lane (2012), p.191

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING

CELLARING POTENTIAL

TEMÁTICO ARGENTINO JOVEN TORRONTÉS, LA RIOJA, 2023, LOT 4747, P24

RIESLING GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG, AOC ALSACE, 2022 LOT 4762, P35

DON MANUEL VINEYARD CARMÉNÈRE, PEUMO, 2022, LOT 4716, P11

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES RESERVA SYRAH, MAULE VALLEY, 2023, LOT 4738, P18

CANADIAN CORNER

FIND AN EVEN BIGGER CANADIAN SELECTION ONLINE! WWW.OPIMIAN.CA

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a singlevineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundianstyle Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip, the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2023-2025– lw

3678

PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

Chardonnay

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in a glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here, the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028–lw

4664

PEARL MORISSETTE FURIE RED BLEND, LINCOLN LAKESHORE VQA 2020

Cabernet Franc

$ 75

$ 450

Ambient yeast, no new oak and extended lees contact make this quite unlike most Bordeaux blends you encountered, so it is best to approach it as advertised – a red blend. Stylistic choices aside, it is still clearly a quality wine. It has a deep opaque ruby appearance. The nose offers medium-intensity aromas with a balsamic element, notes of tomato leaf/tomatillo, sour black plum, chokeberry, wood spice/clove, a touch of game, bell pepper stew, and pickling spices appear with some air. On the dry palate it shows a medium-plus acidity and a medium-plus frame: extract, super-fine powdery tannins and body, a nice length and intensity, with replays and echoes of the aromas –dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/ beet juice, game and tomato, and a long finish. An introvert for sure, it has a poise, a breed and a persistence. 2024-28, but could keep for up to a decade.– ir

Pinot Noir

Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Beef carpaccio with arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano

%

Balsamic, tomato leaf/tomatillo, sour black plum, chokeberry, clove, game, bell pepper stew and pickling spices

Dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/ beet juice, game and tomato

Guinea Hen

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli

JOIN THE HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB TO TASTE YOUR WHISKY EVERY YEAR AS IT AGES! LOT 3690

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw 1067

4558 MELDVILLE IMPROMPTU, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, 2021

Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot

$ 60 $ 360

Another small batch – only 600 bottles of Syrah with a dash of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Deep ruby in the glass. A medium-plus intensity on the nose with lifted, toffee, ripe bell pepper, pencil lead-and-shavings aromas, then hints of cooked beetroot in the background. A honey note appears with airing. On the palate, it shows medium acidity, is dry and has a medium-plus extract and powdery tannins for an overall medium-plus body impression. It displays a medium length and fruit with pencil shavings, red plum and pit, toffee, cooked beetroot and medium, powdery finish. 2024-26– ir

13%

Toffee, ripe bell pepper, pencil lead and shavings, hints of

Pencil shavings, red plum and pit, toffee, cooked

Smoked brisket with grilled root vegetables

orange, apricot, date, caramel

BEACH RYE 51

WHISKY

Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie

Grilled

Finish Allspice

cooked beetroot

beetroot

UP TO THE MINUTE

OPIMIAN EVENTS

PRODUCER TASTINGS COMING TO A CITY NEAR YOU IN 2024! Producer Tastings will be rolling out across the country in 2024, with the first stops in Toronto and Montreal. These events are a chance to taste last year’s vintage of a range of wines in the current cellar. Each tasting will focus on several producers and may include special guests! Keep an eye on your emails and check the Cellars for more information.

South America Trip

Visit at least five Opimian producers. Dates: February 3-13, 2024 8 nights and 9 days.

Check your emails for updates!

Save the date for a Riedel Winetasting featuring Maximilian Riedel June 14, 2024 Toronto, Canada

Stay tuned for more information!

OPIMIAN ON SOCIAL MEDIA

If you haven't already, make sure to check out and follow our pages/groups on Facebook, Instagram, and LinkedIn

Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/OpimianWineClubdeVin

Facebook group (moderated) - https://www.facebook.com/groups/151105651580630

Instagram page - https://www.instagram.com/opimianwineclubdevin/

LinkedIn page - https://www.linkedin.com/company/opimian/

GETTING TO KNOW THE STAFF

Anna Tarzia Zappia Head of Procurement

Anna has enjoyed every minute of her career at Opimian over the last 45 years, The most rewarding, as a member of the Procurement Team.

DRINKING NOW > Mauricio Lorca Fantasia Malbec, 2021 from C292

REFER-AFRIEND

Talk about a win-win. Have a friend, family member, or coworker join Opimian and you will each get a case of wine to celebrate. Not only is the wine worth far more than the cost of the Membership, but you'll also have more people to share in the joy of wine.

Just direct them to www.opimian.ca, be sure they enter your Member Number when prompted and add the Promo Code Opimian24 when prompted for that too. We'll take take care of the rest.

MEMBER BENEFITS

We are always looking for ways to make your Opimian Membership more valuable than having exclusive access to world-class, magnificent wines. Here are just a few of the benefits of Membership. Watch your email for offers from these and other partners throughout 2024!

ReCork

We have partnered with the pioneering company ReCork to recycle our corks from our cellar tastings, events, and dinners – if you would like to do the same learn more by visiting their website. www.recork.com

Jagged Ridge Wine Racks

Save 10% on wine racks @ Amazon - PROMO CODE: Opimian10 tinyurl.com/JRRacks

Blue Grouse Cellars

5% off wine cabinets, cooling units, glassware & AccessoriesPROMO CODE: Opim23 www.bluegrouseshop.com

Canadian Association of Retired Persons (CARP) & Zoomer Magazine

Complimentary year of MembershipOne year of Zoomer for $19.95 Go to shop.carp.ca/CCO22MWCQ

Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) Opimian Wine Club members can enjoy 20% off the cost of a TIFF Membership. Take your love of film to the next level with free tickets to TIFF Cinematheque, Festival, and year-round Member pre-sales, discounts across TIFF Bell Lightbox, and so much more.

PROMO CODE: 23OPIMIAN

Le Maitre D Gourmet Food

Exclusive access & special pricing. Packages designed to compliment your Opimian wines. www.lemaitred.com

International Wine & Food Society

The IW&FS of Toronto arranges monthly events combining wine and food which include dinners and tastings; all designed to be innovative, educational, enjoyable and of high quality. Opimian members have special access to IWFS events

PLEASE KEEP YOUR CREDIT CARD INFORMATION UP-TO-DATE

One of the biggest disappointments we hear from Members and especially wine program subscribers is when their orders do not go through due to an expired credit card. Please keep yours up-to-date. You can update the information in your dashboard. It's stored in a safe, encrypted database so you have no worries there.

If you have any trouble doing so, please contact Member Service.

While the wine history of Chile dates back to the 1600s and the arrival of the first Europeans, it was not until the latter part of the 20th century that it made its debut on the international wine stage. With only a dozen or so wineries in 1995, that number grew by more than fivefold just a decade later. Chile first earned its reputation as a source of valuable, reliable varietal wines, and its quality credentials were recognized at the 2004 Berlin tasting. Sena, a joint-project wine by Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi, more than held its own against a flight of top international wines. Today, Chile offers a full spectrum of wines and is rightly recognized as a source of wines from largely ungrafted vines. Phylloxera has not managed to gain a foothhold here, and it's a new home to the Carménère grape, a Bordeaux expat and a minor player there, which has not really flourished on any significant scale anywhere else in the world.

photo — Cornellana Estate: a narrow and remote, rocky valley in the middle of a volcanic terrain that has become compacted and fractured over millions of years, creating very special soils for viticulture with a unique character.

CELLAR 312 — QUEBEC

CACHAPOAL VALLEY

VIÑA LA ROSA

Estate-bottled wines of the highest caliber have recently been sending leading critics into a scoring frenzy. Viña La Rosa, founded in 1824, is one of Chile's oldest wineries, located in Peumo, a highly regarded zone within the Cachapoal Valley. An isolated, rocky valley in the midst of volcanic terrain sets the stage for their Cornellana vineyard, where the Cachapoal River creates warm days and mild nights, favoring the production of world-class Carménère.

Chief Winemaker Gonzalo Cárcamo has been on the books since 1998, working his way up to become big enchilada in 2011. Winemaker Cynthia Ortiz Vidal was previously employed by Silver Oak Cellars in Napa, a winery that needs no introduction. They spearhead a talented team who put significant emphasis on a holistic approach. The estate is certified sustainable by multiple awarding bodies. The estate holds certifications for sustainability from multiple awarding bodies.

There is a huge amount of black cherry and blackberry on the nose, against a backdrop of black pepper and floral notes. This sets the scene for an indulgent ride, and boy, does it deliver! Black cherry, black pepper, sun-dried tomatoes, damp earth, soy sauce and bacon fat harmonise with considerable swagger on the palate. This is plush, velvety, and deeply complex. The acidity and tannin are both very well integrated, adding much-needed vitality to the creative whole, which rumbles on towards a stonking finish. 2024-2025 – mp

— CHILE VIÑA LA ROSA

Black cherry, blackberry, black pepper, elderflower blossom

Black cherry, damp earth, sun-dried tomatoes, bacon fat

Stew of caramelized roasted vegetables

4716

DON MANUEL VINEYARD CARMÉNÈRE, PEUMO, 2022

Carménère

Chardonnay

Buoyant mousse and boisterous bead on this straw-yellow-hued charmer. The nose is fresh, with notes of cut apricot, nectarine, honeydew melon, and custard apple. There is more of the same on the palate with a mouth-watering acidity and clean feel that conveys very little autolysis but offers immediate enjoyment. 2024-2025 – mp

CORNELLANA WINEMAKERS

SELECTION BARREL RESERVE, CARMÉNÈRE, PEUMO, 2022

Deep ruby again. Succulent, pure blackberry and black cherry on the nose, dark chocolate, soy sauce, and the pleasant leafiness that Carménère can offer. The palate is accessible with supple tannins finely melded in between dense, black fruit. This is meaningful drinking designed for short-term pleasure, taking full advantage of Carménère’s ability to drink well from the get go. 2024-2025 – mp

Cut apricot, nectarine, honeydew melon, custard apple

Citrus, stone fruit, melon, custard apple [8.15]

Sushi

Blackberry, soy sauce, chocolate, tomato leaf

Blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, tomato leaf

Roast turkey with plum sauce

photo — From Left to right: Gonzalo Carcamo Head Winemaker, Cynthia Ortiz Winemaker, with former team members Eugenio Maffei and Juan Carlos Acevedo.

4720

CORNELLANA CUVÉE GRAND RESERVE, PEUMO, 2019

Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Carménère, Merlot, and Petit Verdot

12 months in French oak is just the ticket for this Bordelais-style number. The introduction of some Syrah adds bright, primary notes of black cherry to the plum and blackberry of the Bordeaux blend. This is starting to show development with baked fruits and wood spice creeping into the once primary-fruit-driven palate. It is a developed red at a winning price and will suit those members who enjoy a more mature style. 2024-2025 –mp

RECIPE SPOTLIGHT

Chorizo Ravioli with Grilled Carrot Mousseline

Although pasta is an Italian classic, it offers infinite ways to surprise by using it in different combinations. In this recipe, we use simple ingredients, highlighting them through their preparation. The combination of the spicy chorizo filling in the ravioli, along with the orientalseasoned mousseline and the tropical fruit-marinated carrots, creates an explosion of flavors and textures.

4721

CORNELLANA "DEEP-SOIL COLLUVIAL" CARMÉNÈRE, PEUMO, 2021

Carménère, Cabernet Franc

Deep ruby hue. Powerfully aromatic, rich nose, oozing scented black fruit, violets, and floral characteristics. There is plenty of fruit, oak, and alcohol swishing around in the glass to give pleasure to even the most curmudgeonly claret aficionado. Throw away your inhibitions, this is a comfort wine for dark winter nights. As Oscar Wilde observed, the only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. 2024-2028 – mp

Grilled quail

The Cornellana Don Manuel Carménère is a stunning wine produced by Vina la Rosa that pairs beautifully with these distinct flavors, adding a little spice and volume, wrapping it all together in one delightful culinary experience.

VISIT OUR BLOG TO FIND THE FULL RECIPE AND STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS!

“Over many years of personal and professional engagement with food and wine, I have concluded that a good Carménère goes extremely well with chorizo and side dishes [with] roasted vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, or pumpkin. It is also said that Carménère goes well with Indian food. Daniela has now combined these flavors in a unique, harmonious, and creative way. Chapeau!” - Ricardo

Black cherry, plum, blackberry, wood spice

Cherry, baked plum, baked blackberry, wood spice

Magret of duck

Blackberry, blackberry leaf, black cherry, violets

Blackberry, chocolate, vanilla, violets

photo Daniela Fadda, a native of Chile, is the owner of a successful catering company in Germany, where she has earned a reputation for excellence, good taste, and passion. Her husband, Ricardo Ullrich, also a native of Chile, has worked for Vina la Rosa since 2004 and has been Opimian's liaison for the past 15 years.

DON MANUEL VINEYARD CARMÉNÈRE, PEUMO, 2022, LOT 4716, P11

CHILE

Villard Fine Wines

CASABLANCA VALLEY

Villard Fine Wines was founded by Thierry Villard in 1989 in Casablanca Valley, 70 kilometres west of Santiago, towards the Pacific. It is quite a story about how this Frenchman ended up in Chile, you

can read the son’s account of his father’s travails on their website, it’s worth your time. Thierry was one of the first to recognize the quality potential of Chile and Casablanca in particular and his venture holds a claim of being the first boutique winery in Chile. His son, Jean-Charles (Charlie), is steering the ship now with the same focus on quality that the company started with. The team’s efforts have been recognized, among other things, by being named the 79th on the list of the 100 World’s Best Vineyards.

EXPRESIÓN RESERVE

4724

SAUVIGNON BLANC, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2023

Sauvignon Blanc

A pale yellow appearance. The nose has medium intensity cucumber and leaf, white currant, aloe and citrus notes. Dry on the palate with a medium acidity, a mediumplus extract, a medium texture, and a medium-plus body, it displays a nice length and fruit with subtle but there and persistent flavours: white currant, cucumber water, aloe, hints of citrus, pith and peel, and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2025 –ir

currant,

4725

Chardonnay

The wine was aged for 10 months in a combination of new, 2nd and 3rd fill barrels. A pale yellow colour in the glass. The nose leads with mediumintensity aromas of smoke, nuts, yellow plum, pear, vanilla and creamy notes. The palate is dry and made up of a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture, yet a medium-plus body, with a lovely length and persistent flavours of cream, oatmeal, toast, nuts, yellow plum and pear, with a medium-plus finish. 2024-2028 – ir

Cucumber and leaf, white currant, aloe and citrus

White

cucumber water, aloe, hints of citrus, pith and peel [0.26]

Lime-chili shrimp with cucumber aïoli

Smoke, nuts, yellow plum, pear, vanilla and creamy

Cream, oatmeal, toast, nuts, yellow plum and pear, [2.27]

Pan-seared sole with creamy mushroom sauce

LE CHARDONNAY GRAND VIN, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2022

photo — Charlie Villard sorting grapes at the harvest of TANAGRA.

4726 EXPRESIÓN RESERVE SYRAH, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2020

4727

EXPRESIÓN RESERVE PINOT NOIR, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2023

4728 LE

PINOT NOIR GRAND VIN, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2022

Noir $ 55 $ 330

This had a seven-day cold soak pre-fermentation, and 65% of the blend was oakaged for 12 months after. It has a deep ruby, opaque robe, and subtle aromas of black olive, prune, espresso and carrot cake. With a medium acidity on a dry palate, it shows a medium extract, medium-plus fine-textured tannins and a medium-plus body. These are complemented by a lovely length and fruit, still stacked - blackberry jam leather, prune, tar, carrot cake and a floral hint on a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Cold-soaked for 7 days prior to fermentation, with only a quarter seeing any oak aging. An opaque deep black ruby in the glass. A medium intensity on the nose with red fruit, black plum and prune spread elements. The palate has a medium acidity, is dry, with a shy-of-medium extract and lighter furry-textured tannins and a medium body, with black plum and prune replays and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

This saw a 7-day cold soak, and 10 months oak ageing in 75% new French oak. A very deep ruby in the glass. It shows a medium-plus intensity lifted aromas of roasted beet, black olive tapenade, lard and black cherry reduction on the nose. The palate is dry with a medium frame – acidity, extract, fine-textured furry tannins and body, and a nice length and intensity of black cherry, roasted beetroot, black olive, tar, and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2028 – ir

Black olive, prune, espresso and carrot cake

Blackberry jam leather, prune, tar, carrot cake and floral

Barbecued black bean burgers with Portobello mushrooms

Red fruit, black plum and prune spread

Black plum and prune

Mushroom risotto

Roasted beet, black olive tapenade, lard and black cherry reduction

Black cherry, roasted beetroot, black olive, tar

Peppered duck with peas and wild mushrooms

Syrah

Pinot Noir

Pinot

4734

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES RESERVA CHARDONNAY, CURICÓ VALLEY 2021

Chardonnay

$ 23 $ 276

From ungrafted vines of prephylloxera French stock. A medium yellow hue in the glass. The high-intensity lactic/custard, hazelnut paste, vanilla, yellow plum and floral aromas leap from the glass. It is dry on the palate, with a medium acidity, shy-of-medium extract, soft-plus texture and a light to medium body. It displays a nice length and fruit intensity with creamy/ custardy, yellow plum, hazelnut butter, vanilla and lemon flavors, and a medium finish. 2024-2025 –ir

13.5%

Lactic/custard, hazelnut paste, vanilla, yellow plum and floral

Creamy/custardy, yellow plum, hazelnut butter, vanilla and lemon [4.50]

Bagel and Lox with a schmeer of cream cheese

Originally from the Basque region in Spain, the Echeverria family has been in Chile since the 1750s, having already planted vineyards during that time. In the 1930s, they planted French pre-phylloxera vines in the Curicó Valley, and the modern history of the winery dates back to 1979 when Roberto Echeverria returned to Chile from the US, where he had studied Economics and worked at the World Bank.

photo — Left to right: Roberto Echeverria Jr., Victor Rivera, Paola Bustamante

CELLAR 312 — QUEBEC

4735

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY, CURICÓ VALLEY 2022

Chardonnay

Also from ungrafted, prephylloxera French stock vines. 50/50 barrel and stainless steel fermented, and barrique aged for 6 months. It has a mediumplus yellow appearance. On the nose it offers a mediumintensity range of toast, nuts, aloe, a touch of smoked meat spices and a hint of apricot. It has a well-balanced palate, dry, with a medium acidity and a medium extract, a soft-plus texture and a medium-plus body. Mediumplus length and persistence complete the set with yellow plum, nuts, oatmeal, vanilla and fragrant lift leading into a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026–ir

4736

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES ROSÉ, CABERNET FRANC, MAULE VALLEY 2023

Cabernet Franc

The medium gray pink hue here comes from eight-hour skin maceration. It shows a nose of medium intensity aromas, with hints of red berries, red plum, clean lees, tomato leaf and cucumber. A light to medium body with a medium-minus supportive acidity, it is dry, with the aromas replayed on the palate: red fruit notes, leaf, cucumber, and a medium finish. 2024-2025 – ir

and

Creamy avocado dip with Asiago and toast points

This was a time of depression in the Chilean wine industry, and it took 15 years of focus and effort to transform the family business from the brink of disaster into a modern, export-oriented winery. Today, Roberto and his four children continue to focus on delivering customers a special, emotive experience with their wines, known for their classic and elegant styling.

Toast, nuts, aloe, smoke meat spices and apricot

Yellow plum, nuts, oatmeal, vanilla

fragrant lift, [2.50]

Red berries, red plum, clean lees, tomato leaf and cucumber

Red fruit notes, leaf, cucumber, [6.00]

Roast lamb with rosemary and red currant coulis

photo Victor holding the Casa Nueva family Wines Rosé, Cabernet Franc Maule Valley 2023

Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc

Ungrafted, pre-phylloxera stock vines. A relatively cool ferment and 4-5 months of barrique exposure. It has a deep purple, opaque robe and medium-intensity aromas of black olive tapenade, tar, smoke, fire-roasted bell peppers and tomatoes/ tomatillos, pico de gallo and black fruit. The palate is dry, with a medium acidity and medium dimensions - extract, soft textured tannins and body, and displays lovely length and intensity with flavours of plum, tar, black olive and roasted tomatillos, and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Mostly Cab Sauv, with 10% Petit Verdot and 5% of Cab Franc, aged 8 months in barriques. It has a deep ruby opaque appearance, and medium-intensity cassis essence and coffee pressings aromas, with lifted, floral and creamy overtones. The palate has a medium acidity, is dry, with a medium extract, medium fine-textured tannins and a medium body. It shows nice length and fruit intensity with a straightforward creamy tone, notes of cassis, chocolate and a hint of tar towards a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

4738

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES RESERVA SYRAH, MAULE VALLEY 2023

Ungrafted, pre-Phylloxera vine stock. It spent 4-5 months in small barriques. A deep ruby, opaque in the glass. It offers a good typicity with medium-intensity aromas of hickory, tar/smoke, bacon/lard, black olive and black raspberry preserve. The palate is dry, with a medium acidity, and a medium-plus structure of extract, fine textured tannins and overall medium-plus body. It has a nice length and well-enunciated flavours of smoke, hickory, tar, lard, black olive and black raspberry, and medium-plus finish. 2024-2028 –ir

Black olive tapenade, tar, smoke, fire-roasted bell pepper and tomatos/tomatillos, pico de gallo and black fruit

Plum, tar, black olive and roasted tomatillos

Barbecued smoked pork chops with chimichurri

13%

Hickory, tar/smoke, bacon/lard, black olive and black raspberry preserve

Smoke, hickory, tar, lard, black olive and black raspberry

Grilled pork belly kebabs with pumpkin

Cassis essence, coffee pressings aromas, lifted, floral and creamy

Creamy, cassis, chocolate, a hint of tar

Spinach, onion and tomato-stuffed Portobello mushrooms

Carménère

Syrah

photo — Roberto's children playing on the estate with their chickens

$ 25 $ 300

In this case you’d find a trio of blends made, like several of Echeverria top wines, from the ungrafted vines from pre-Phylloxera French stock. They are all a 60/40 varietal splits, aged for 5-6 months in small barrels, with a traditional pairing of Cabernets, but also a far less common blend of Cabernet Franc and Syrah, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère.

THREE STYLES OF EXCEPTIONAL QUALITY IN ONE CASE

HACIENDA DE MOLINA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON CABERNET FRANC, CURICÓ VALLEY 2023

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

It is deep ruby opaque in appearance. A little quiet aromatically initially if with a nice poise, showing a floral lift and red plum. The palate follows with a medium acidity, is dry, with a medium extract, medium-plus fine medium-textured tannins and a medium-plus body, with a lovely length and fruit intensity featuring plum, cream, floral note, toast, vanilla, and a medium finish. 2024-2028 –ir

HACIENDA DE MOLINA RESERVA CABERNET FRANC SYRAH, MAULE VALLEY 2023

Cabernet Franc, Syrah

It has a deep purple, opaque robe. It is of a medium intensity on the nose with black plum, cream, milk chocolate and nasturtium components. With a softer than medium acidity, it is dry on the palate, has a medium extract, medium soft-textured tannins and a medium body and offers plum, floral and starchy/pea soup tones, milk chocolate, and a medium warm finish. 2024-2025 – ir

HACIENDA DE MOLINA GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON CARMÉNÈRE, CURICÓ VALLEY 2022

Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère

This wine had a longer stay in barriques – 10 to 12 months. A deep purple opaque colour, it opens with medium intensity aromas of shoe polish, tar, smoke, black olive and black plum. A medium-sized palate: extract, fine tannin and body, dry with a medium acidity, it shows a nice length and creamy, tar, black olive and black plum fruit, and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Floral lift, red plum

Plum, creamy, floral, toast, vanilla [3.92]

Flourless dark chocolate cake with black cherries

Black plum, cream, milk chocolate and nasturtiums

Plum, floral and starchy/pea soup tones, milk chocolate [3.92]

Lentil stew with feta

Shoe polish, tar, smoke, black olive and black plum

Creamy, tar, black olive and black plum [5.50]

Grilled anticuchos with cilantro rice

photo View of the chardonnay vineyards in Molina during Spring

4741

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES GRAN RESERVA SYRAH CARMÉNÈRE, CENTRAL VALLEY 2022

Syrah, Carménère

From ungrafted, prephylloxera French stock vines. This wine spent 10-12 months in small barriques. A deep ruby, opaque hue in the glass. A little quiet on the nose, showing dried black olive, a creamy character and a hint of cold smoke/tar. The palate opens with a medium acidity, is dry and has a medium extract, medium-plus fine-textured tannins and a mediumplus body. It shows a nice length and flavours of plum, olive, tar/smoke and dark chocolate, and a mediumplus finish. 2024-2026 –ir

4742

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CURICÓ VALLEY 2022

Cabernet Sauvignon

Ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines stock. 10-12 months of small oak regime. It has a deep ruby opaque presence and nicely poised mediumintensity aromas of cream, cassis, chocolate and earth. It is dry on the palate with a medium acidity and dimensions - extract, fine textured tannins and body. It displays nice length and persistence of fruit featuring black plum, mineral note, bitter chocolate, cassis and fresh turned-over black soil, with a medium finish. 2024-2028 – ir

4743

GRENACHE CARIGNAN MOURVÈDRE (GCM), CENTRAL VALLEY 2021

Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre

Again, ungrafted, from oldstock vines, aged for 10-12 months in small barrels and unfiltered. A deep purple opaque appearance. It shows medium-intensity, polished aromas on the nose: plum brandy, tar, smoke, black olives, blackberry preserve and gingerbread. With a medium acidity and dry on the palate, it has a medium extract, medium fine-textured tannins and a medium body. A little rustic it still has a nice presence on the palate with lovely length and intensity and offers chicory root, black plum reduction and blue-/blackberry preserves towards a medium finish. 2024-2026–ir

Black olive, creamy, a hint of cold smoke/tar

Plum, olive, tar/smoke and dark chocolate

Corn and beef pie pastel de choclo

Cream, cassis, chocolate and earth

Black plum, mineral note, bitter chocolate, cassis, fresh turnover black

Plateada

Plum brandy, tar, smoky, black olives, blackberry preserves and gingerbread

Chicory root, black plum reduction and blue-/blackberry preserves

Rigatoni with slow-braised lamb ragù

CELLAR 312 — QUEBEC

This highlights the point that “natural” wine is what a winemaker decides it is. The use of temperaturecontrolled vats is more than “natural” purists would accept, yet the inputs were indeed kept at a minimum – only ambient yeast and MLF bacteria were used, there was no filtration or added sulfur. This is not a huge departure, style-wise, from a normal wine. It is a deep purple opaque in the glass and leads with a medium-intensity aromas of oil, tar, hint of licorice, dried prune and aloe. A dry palate with a medium acidity, it shows a mediumplus extract, medium coating fine-textured tannins and a mediumplus body, with nice length and persistence of flavours of black fruit, aloe, ink, stone - fruit and pebble, and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Natural Wine: The Resurgence of Tradition

By Seema Pal, DipWSET, Opimian's Marketing Assistant í

Natural wines are often considered to be the world’s first wine style, and it is undeniable that this ancient tradition has made a comeback.

What are natural wines? Simply put, these are wines that are made by fermenting grape juice with no or minimal sulfites added. Conventional wines include the use of sulfites for the purpose of preservation. This is important for stabilization, consistency, antimicrobial control, and much more. Producers who create natural wines believe that when done correctly, the added sulfites are not necessary and the bottle variation that comes from natural wines are to be appreciated.

Although there are various theories as to where it originates from, it is widely accepted that it started in Georgia approximately 8000 years ago when grape juice, skins, stalks, and pips were put into Qvevri (traditional egg-shaped clay vessels) that were sealed and put into the ground to slowly ferment.

Fast forwarding to present day, the question remains if natural wines are just a “fad”, or are they here to stay?

With this style’s persistent growth, it is becoming clearer that this category will be around for quite some time. Now, natural wines are made in just about all wine-producing regions, with the most common countries being France, Italy, Spain, Austria, and Australia.

With the notion of 'nothing added, nothing removed,' it is common to find natural wines to be unoaked, allowing the provenance of the grape to shine through as unaltered as possible. It is important to note that the term 'natural wine' is not officially regulated and can vary from producer to producer.

The truest expressions of natural wines may include 'zero-zero' on the label, a bold statement of no added sulfites or yeasts. Additionally, those who produce

natural wines tend to farm biodynamically, sustainably, and organically, as these methods and philosophies often go hand in hand. The production of natural wines generates unique flavor and aroma descriptors, often including words like 'wild,' 'sour,' 'Fino sherry,' 'sour beer,' 'kombucha,' and, in the most extreme cases, 'barnyard.' There are some factors to consider when it comes to natural wines. The flavors and aromas may not be to everyone's taste, as they can differ significantly from conventional wines. Natural wines can be quite unpredictable due to the reduced or complete lack of added sulfites. The flavors and aromas can vary greatly from vintage to vintage and even change from case to case within the same batch.

These wines can undergo considerable changes even as they sit in the cellar.

With a natural wine on your table, there are some interesting food pairings to explore. Try it with a charcuterie plate featuring a couple of 'funky' cheese options, such as Roquefort or Taleggio. Additionally, both white and red options pair beautifully with sushi, oysters, or grilled vegetables.

Enjoy trying something new in this Cellar! THE JOY

4744

EL BARRIO CARIGNAN, MAULE VALLEY, NATURAL WINE FROM CHILE 2023

and aloe Black fruit, aloe, ink, fruit stone and pebble Merkén-spiced three-bean casserole

WINE 2022

Cold-soaked, then 30% whole-cluster ambient yeast fermented and aged for 13 months in large foudre. A deep purple opaque robe. The nose offers a mediumplus intensity aromas of blackberry hard candy, shoe wax, tar, blackberry cheesecake tart; a bit confectionary. A low but adequate acidity on a dry palate, it tips to shy-of-medium end of the range with extract, loose medium-textured tannins and body, yet with an attractive length and fruit: candied note here again, then blackberry, fragrant, cheesecake, and a medium finish. 2024-2025– ir

Only a quarter of the blend has seen no oak at all. It has a deep purple opaque colour and subtler aromas of dark fruit, ink and hint of chokeberry. It is dry on the palate with a medium-minus acidity, a medium-plus extract and fine-textured tannins, a medium-plus body, with a lovely length and fruit which has depth yet the particulars are a little hard to tease out –prune, chokeberry and ink are there and more, leading to a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026– ir

4729

Roast duck breasts with dulce de leche and

JCV CHARLIE VILLARD NATURAL WINE CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

Here is a chance to compare sideby-side the Chilean versions of these Southern French grapes, not often seen as single varietal bottlings, Carignan in particular, made here with absolute minimum of inputs.

Blackberry hard candy, shoe wax, tar, blackberry cheesecake tart; a bit confectionary

Candied, blackberry, fragrant, cheesecake

Mild Indian curries

Dark fruit, ink and hint of chokeberry

Prune, chokeberry and ink

chile de árbol

JCV CHARLIE VILLARD GRENACHE, CASABLANCA VALLEY, NATURAL WINE 2022

Grenache

JCV CHARLIE VILLARD CARIGNAN, MAULE VALLEY, NATURAL

Carignan

ARGENTINA

4747

TEMÁTICO ARGENTINO JOVEN TORRONTÉS, LA RIOJA 2023

A watery platinum appearance in the glass. The nose shows medium-intensity aromas of acacia blossom, pod and leaf with hint of hard caramel candy. It has a mediumacidity, dry palate with a medium extract, a soft-plus texture, a medium body and a lovely length and fruit intensity with the same straightforward acacia blossom, pod and leaf, school paste, and a medium finish. There is no overt bitterness, a welcome thing for Torrontes. 2024-2025 – ir

4748

TEMÁTICO ARGENTINO JOVEN CABERNET SAUVIGNON, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2023

Cabernet Sauvignon

From the altitude of 1050m ASL, a 30% fraction spent some time in oak. This Cab shows off a deep opaque ruby hue and medium-intensity aromas of cassis candy, cream, chocolate brownie, earth and a hint of blood orange. The palate is dry, of medium dimensions: acidity, extract, finetextured tannins and body, with a lovely length and fruit presence showcasing black plum, cream, overripe cassis and chocolate brownie, with a medium finish. 2024-2026– ir

13%

Cassis candy, cream, chocolate brownie, earth, blood orange

Black plum, cream, overripe cassis and chocolate brownie

Chocolate alfajores

Acacia blossom, pod and leaf, hint of hard caramel candy

Acacia blossom, pod and leaf, school paste, [1.80]

Ceviche de Los Andes

4722 CORNELLANA SAUVIGNON BLANC, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, 2023

Sauvignon Blanc

Pale lemon. There is no mistaking this as anything other than Sauvignon Blanc! Trademark notes of gooseberry, grass, nettle, and asparagus on the nose. The palate is light and fresh as a daisy: cue aestival flavours of wild grasses, lime juice, wet stone, and gooseberry. Lean, anything but mean, and topped by a finish that blends lingering fruit with puckering acidity. 2024-2025–mp

Gooseberry, grass, nettle, asparagus

Wild grasses, lime juice, wet stone, gooseberry [1.70]

Vegetarian chimichurri pasta salad

WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK

4723

CORNELLANA RESERVE CARMÉNÈRE, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, 2023

Carménère

Deep ruby hued. Very promising nose under the reductive puppy fat – black cherry, plum, black pepper, and liquorice all make an appearance. There is a brightness and linear nature to the palate, with plentiful black cherry, plum, black pepper, liquorice, and cocoa flavours. The acidity is high, but this is young, and the length is certainly appealing. 2024-2025–mp

Black cherry, plum, black pepper, struck match

Black cherry, plum, liquorice, cocoa

Char-grilled lamb kebabs with mint sauce

ARGENTINA

There are several key highlights of Argentina as a wine source. One is the Andes Mountains, which help keep the wine-growing areas dry and free of most disease pressures, and are responsible for some of the highest vineyards in the world in parts of the country. The other highlight is the prevalence of mostly ungrafted vines, thanks to a low threat of phylloxera. And, of course, Malbec serves as its signature grape. Originating from the Cahors region in South West France, it's fair to say that Argentina has played a pivotal role in putting Malbec squarely on the world map. Malbec is produced here in the entire spectrum of quality, but the best wines set global benchmarks for the grape.

Bodega y Viñedos

Mauricio Lorca MENDOZA

At each of Mauricio Lorca's three Uco Valley vineyard sites, there is a full 25°C swing between daytime and nighttime temperatures. The intense, sun-soaked days and cool mountain nights, combined with well-draining, spartan soils, create optimal viticultural conditions. It's no surprise that names like Lurton and Rolland have established themselves here, and Mauricio Lorca fits right in. He began his career with Catena Zapata, later becoming the chief winemaker at Luigi Bosca. In 2002, he established his own winery in Perdriel, situated in the prime area of Argentina's Haut Médoc: Luján de Cuyo. For Mauricio, Malbec is the variety that best showcases the potential of highaltitude viticulture and represents the face of Argentine wine to the world.

photo — Mauricio Lorca Owner & Winemaker. His philosophy is based on wines made under the concept of minor intervention, working with grapes of

Foster Lorca Winery was established in 2003 through a collaboration between two entrepreneurs, Enrique Foster and Mauricio Lorca. They were both convinced of the potential of Malbec from Mendoza and chose to set up the winery in the Luyan de Cujo area, just outside the town of Mendoza. While their primary focus is on producing high-quality wines that authentically represent the region, the winery also places a strong emphasis on sustainability, adhering to good manufacturing practices, and embracing vegan, gluten-free, and organic approaches. They hold several certifications that reflect their commitment to these principles, and many of their wines meet these strict requirements.

$ 28 $ 168

30% of the wine has seen wood, with 70% unoaked to accentuate Malbec’s intrinsic fruit. It has a deep purple, opaque appearance. On the nose there are medium-intensity lifted aromas of prune, coffee, mustard greens and tomato leaf. Dry on the palate, it has a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine textured tannins and a medium body, and offers a nice length and persistent flavours of red fruit, chocolate and mustard greens, and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

13.5%

Prune, coffee, mustard greens and tomato leaf

Red fruit, chocolate and mustard greens

Broiled flank steak with creamy chimichurri-style sauce

4749 LORCA FANTASÍA MALBEC, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2023

Malbec

4750 LORCA FANTASÍA CHARDONNAY, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2023

Chardonnay

This mostly unoaked Chard – only 15% saw some oak - has a pale yellow colour. The nose opens with a medium-intensity broad attack with aromas of aloe, starch and starfruit/pear. It is followed by a medium-framed, dry palate with a medium acidity, and a hint of yellow pear, starch, a minerally note, aloe and yellow plum, and a medium finish. 2024-2025 –ir

Aloe, starch and starfruit/pear

Hint of yellow pear, starch, a minerally note, aloe and yellow plum, [1.80]

Linguine with grilled lobster and cream sauce

4752

4751

LORCA FANTASÍA SAUVIGNON BLANC, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2023

Sauvignon Blanc

From a vineyard at a 1050m ASL elevation. A watery platinum hue here. This wine has light-intensity aromatics with overtones of white currant, leaf and starch, like a freshly cut potato. The palate is dry and shows a medium acidity, light-plus extract, medium texture, light to medium body, with flavours of white currant, leaf, citrus pith, and a medium finish. 2024-2025 – ir

White currant, leaf and starch

White currant, leaf and citrus pith, [1.80]

Pappardelle with pesto

MAURICIO LORCA INSPIRADO CHARDONNAY, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2022

Chardonnay 14%

From high altitude vineyard – 1250m ASL, it was barrel-fermented and kept for 12 months on its lees. The wine has a medium yellow robe. The nose offers mediumintensity aromas of honey, cream, nuts, vanilla, custard, thistle and oatmeal. On the dry palate we find a medium acidity, a medium-plus extract, a medium texture and a full body, a nice length and persistence with flavours of nuts, honey, pear, vanilla, custard, thistle and oatmeal leading to a medium-plus finish. 2024-2028 – ir

Pistachio and blood orange quinoa salad

Honey, cream, nuts, vanilla, custard, thistle and oatmeal

Nuts, honey, pear, vanilla, custard, thistle and oatmeal, [1.80]

4753 LORCA POÉTICO CHARDONNAY / WHITE BLEND CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

This is a two-pack of the premium white offerings by Lorca, sourced from the same high-altitude vineyard - a Chardonnay and an eclectic blend. They certainly received a royal treatment in the winery, which shows in the glass, but the use of oak was well gauged and provides a complementary frame for the ample fruit in both wines.

LORCA POÉTICO CHARDONNAY, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2022

Chardonnay

Sourced from a vineyard at 1250m altitude with sandy loam soils, 65% of the blend was aged for 12 months in French (90%) and American oak. It is pale yellow in appearance. The nose shows mediumintensity creamy, nuts, cucumber water, aloe and starfruit aromas. It has a medium-acidity, dry, medium-sized palate with a nice length and persistence of citrus peel, creamy, vanilla, aloe and cucumber flavours and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

LORCA POÉTICO WHITE BLEND, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2022

Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

A half Viognier, 30% Chardonnay, the rest - Sauvignon Blanc. 50% of the blend was fermented and kept for 3 months in new oak. It is a very pale yellow in the glass. It opens with a compelling, mediumplus intensity range of oatmeal, pencil shavings, paste, lees, yellow plum and apple, fresh fig and honey. A mediumframed – extract, texture, body – dry palate, with a medium acidity displays a lovely length and fruit intensity with oatmeal, fresh fig, yellow plum and apple, vanilla and citrus peel, and a medium-plus, warm finish. 2024-2025 – ir

pencil shavings, paste, lees, yellow plum and apple, fresh fig and honey

Oatmeal, fresh fig, yellow plum and apple, vanilla and citrus peel, [1.80]

curry

Oatmeal,

Massaman

Creamy, nuts, cucumber water, aloe and starfruit

Citrus peel, creamy, vanilla, aloe and cucumber, [1.80]

Creamy spring vegetable risotto

LORCA

4755

2020

Cabernet Franc

Only 30% of the blend spend some time in oak, yet it left a noticeable imprint. A deep purple opaque in the glass. The nose showcases a medium intensity, welltyped Syrah set - lard, black olive tapenade, floral lift, mulberry preserve and a hint of tar in the background. The palate is dry, and mediumframed: acidity, extract, loose-textured tannins and body, a little compact but with nice length and fruit flavours of mulberry preserve, tar, black plum spread, black olive and a floral lift leading into a medium finish. 2024-2026 –ir

From a high, 1250m altitude vineyard. It has an opaque, deep purple appearance and medium intensity aromas of prune spread, black olive tapenade, black chocolate, with a floral element. With a shy-of-medium acidity, the palate is dry, with a medium extract, medium ripe fine-textured tannins and a medium body and shows a lovely presence and persistence with flavours of black plum, black olive and dark chocolate, and a mediumplus finish. 2024-2028 – ir

Aged for 12 months in a mix of French (75%) and American oak. A deep opaque ruby in appearance, it shows medium-intensity notes of bell pepper, mustard or jalapeno, and oily richness on the nose. The palate is dry and made up of medium-minus acidity, and light to medium extract, soft-textured tannins, and body with flavours of bell pepper, leaf and mustard and a medium finish. 2024-2025 –ir

4754

LORCA FANTASÍA SYRAH, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2023

Syrah

4756

LORCA POÉTICO CABERNET FRANC, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA

Lard, black olive tapenade, floral lift, mulberry preserve, hint of tar

Mulberry preserve, a floral tone, tar, black plum spread and black olive

White chocolate and cardamom tart

Bell pepper, mustard or jalapeno, oily

Bell pepper, leaf and mustard

Roast venison tenderloin with mustard cream sauce

Prune spread, black olive tapenade, black chocolate, and floral.

Black plum, black olive and dark chocolate

Ricotta and prosciutto-stuffed conchiglie

POÉTICO BONARDA, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2020

Bonarda

photo — Located in Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo, about 30 minutes away from the city of Mendoza.

4757

MAURICIO LORCA, GRAN WINES CASE2 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 70 $ 420

This case features a trio of wines from the same key high-altitude –1250m ASL – vineyard from the same vintage with two of the Gran Blend’s components - Malbec and Petit Verdot offered as single varietals. This may be an interesting opportunity to see how these wines develop over time, if the sum in this case is greater than its parts, or just to try and see how the components contribute to and come through in the blend.

MAURICIO LORCA GRAN BLEND, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2020

Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot

A 70/20/10 Malbec, Syrah and Petit Verdot blend, with 18 months in French (90%) and US oak. A deep purple, opaque in the glass. A rather subdued nose, but with a nice range – there are creamy/lactic, chicory root, floral/carnation, mustard greens, mushroom and prune elements. The palate has a medium-minus adequate acidity, is dry, with medium-plus extract, medium-plus fine powdery-textured tannins and medium-plus body, with nice length and fruit intensity of lactic/creamy, prune and chocolate flavours towards a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026– ir

MAURICIO LORCA GRAN MALBEC, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO 2020

Creamy/lactic, chicory root, floral/carnation, mustard greens, mushroom and prune

Lactic/creamy, prune and chocolate

Smoked brisket sandwiches with caramelized mushrooms

This has been aged for 12 months in French (90%) and American barrels. An opaque deep purple robe. The nose has a medium-plus intensity with lactic, creamy, sandalwood, incense and black plum aromas. Ripe on the dry palate with a medium-minus but sufficient acidity, it exhibits a medium-plus extract, mediumplus fine powdery textured tannins and a medium body, with flavours that follows the nose - sandalwood, incense, hard cheese and black plum, and a medium finish. 2024-2026– ir

Lactic, creamy, sandalwood, incense and black plum

Sandalwood, incense, hard cheese and black plum

Lechón asado pork chops with oregano and orange juice

THE TOP OF THE LORCA LINE

MAURICIO LORCA GRAN PETIT VERDOT, FINCA LOS ALTEPES, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA 2020

Petit Verdot

The wine spent 12 months in French (90%) and American barrels. It’s an opaque deep purple. There are medium-plus intensity, pretty and inviting aromas on the nose: floral, lifted, creamy, peonies and blood orange. A ripe medium-minus but adequate acidity starts off the dry palate, followed by a medium extract, a mediumminus fine textured tannins and a medium body; better-than-medium length and fruit persistence here with floral, orange, creamy tones with a hint of milk chocolate. A long finish. 2024-2026– ir

Floral, lifted, creamy, peonies and blood orange

Floral, orange, creamy, a hint of milk chocolate

Fried rice with barbecued pork and wild mushrooms

Malbec

photo — The Grandes Varietales line exhibits perfect varietal typicity, a great balance between

CELLAR UP!

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

Cultivate your curiosity while building a balanced Cellar.

Cellar Up! has been designed to offer you the full Opimian experience. A mix of classics and must-haves, sprinkled with new products and unique tasting experiences.

CHILEAN CARMÉNÈRE

Want something you can drink as soon as it arrives and transport yourself to South America? This is the one for you! Master of Wine, Michael Palij describes it as 'an indulgent ride'.

ARGENTINIAN MALBEC

All of the Fantasia wines are fantastic but the Malbec is a standout. This is a substantial wine that is a crowd-pleaser as well. So approachable and yet so complex. A rare combination for your collection.

ALSACE RIESLING

Grand Crus of this quality will often cost you much more. Riesling is known as 'the sommelier's grape' due to its complexity and balance in the hands of a capable winemaker. You'll constantly taste new treats in this wine with every sip.

MUST-HAVE

If you love food (and don't we all!?), you'll love this food-friendly wine for family burger night or boeuf bourguignon with your favourite friends. New to Opimian, Gassac has a reputation for punching above its weight.

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX!

The first year this was offered, one of Opimian's Managing Directors opened a bottle and it immediately got in to his top 10 of all time. Unique yet familiar, its a wonderful surprise in every glass.

In June 1316, at Vincennes, France's Louis X was engaged in a rather exhausting game of jeu de paume, the predecessor to tennis. Stopping for a breather, he consumed a significant amount of chilled wine and promptly passed away due to an undefined ailment. Alsace was, of course, immediately held accountable, as the region had switched hands between France and Germany like a proverbial tennis ball, absorbing all the associated cultural heritage (and biases) one might expect. Governing the region may be a challenging task, but the wines certainly do not contribute to one's demise.

Alsace has its own quality system comprising 51 Grand Cru lieu-dits. These crus are exclusively located on the upper parts of the vineyards, each with its own geological identity, across up to ten different soil types. This, combined with no fewer than four noble varieties, ensures that the wines are just as complex as the region’s history.

Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr

Cave Vinicole Hunawihr has forged a strong reputation for quality, from its Grand Cru wines down. The cooperative, established in the 1950s, sources fruit from 13 hectares of proprietary Grand Cru vineyards across Rosacker, Froehn, Sporen, Schoenenbourg, and Osterberg. At a push, the Schoenenbourg bottlings are the worthiest of mention. This important cru, appreciated since the Middle Ages, lines a south-facing ‘Keuper’ or marlstone hillside. Basking in the morning sun, its vines produce powerful, persistent, mineral-driven Rieslings that are a match for most anything from Germany or Austria.

Additionally, 130 growers produce 2 million bottles per year under the guidance of oenologist Anthony Bondon. A further 1.5 million bottles age gracefully in the cooperative’s caves, ensuring one will never be without an option from the co-op described, by La Revue du Vin de France, as the finest in Alsace.

4762

RIESLING GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Riesling

Medium lemon in colour and tightly wound with aromas of toasted almond, white peach, orange blossom, tinned peach, pink grapefruit, wet stone, and honey. Dazzlingly complex, even in its infancy! A varietally pure palate is all about ripe fruit and energy: notes of candied lemon, lime juice, toasted hazelnut, blossom, orange peel, white peach, pastry dough and white pepper delight the palate in waves. This is only medium-bodied but has vibrant acidity and bags of concentration. The finish is packed with an assortment of fruity delights, offering a serious stretch of retro-nasal gratification. 2024-2029– mp

Toasted almond, white peach, orange blossom, wet stone

Candied lemon, lime juice, white peach, pastry dough [2.00]

Yogurt and spice-marinated chicken tikka

photo Dominique Soller, Director of the Cave de Hunawihr, and Stéphan Grappe, Président

Medium lemon hue and delicate effervescence. The ‘5’ here refers to the steps necessary to produce this taut crémant. Step no.4, apparently, is fifteen months on the fine lees. Considerably more than the nine required yet this is not a leesy number. Instead, the nose reveals ripe apple, struck match, white melon, and a delicate woody fragrance. The palate is driven by delicate apple blossom and brisk acidity, racing towards a citrus-inspired finish. 2024-2025 –mp

As an aperitif 4764 GEWURZTRAMINER RÉSERVE, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Gerwurztraminer

Medium lemon. Surprisingly discreet for Gewurztraminer, offering gentle notes of tinned peaches, lychee, and rose water. The medium dry palate has a noticeably mineral backbone. Decent lick of acidity and plenty of alcohol, although this is not out of place at this lowish sugar level. 20242025 – mp

Ripe apple, struck match, white melon, delicate woody aroma

Apple blossom, struck match, white melon, zesty lemon [4.00]

Bosc pear clafoutis

Pinot Blanc

Tinned peaches, lychee, rose water, mineral

Turkish delight, stone fruit, rose water, hazelnut [18.00]

photo — Harvest in the team of Stéphan Grappe

4765 PINOT GRIS VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Pinot Gris

Pale amber hue. Beautiful purity and tension on the nose. Ripe red fruit including strawberry and plum, alongside hazelnut, dried apricot, mandarin, sultana, and orange peel. The palate is suitably complex – masses of ripe fruit, moderate acidity, and plenty of concentration. Peach, walnut, honeysuckle, and orange peel all vie for attention, creating a happy melee on the finish. Delicious. 2024-2025–mp

4766 GEWURZTRAMINER VENDANGES TARDIVES, AOC ALSACE, 2020

Gerwurztraminer

Medium gold. Pronounced, full-on botrytis nose with notes of toasted coconut, almond, pineapple, mango, white pepper, tinned peaches, honey, cinnamon, and ginger. Stupefyingly luscious, hedonistic, even, on the palate, with tropical fruit, Turkish Delight, baking spice, toasted nuts, and blossom. The acidity keeps it all nicely in check. 2024-2025–mp

Pan-seared foie gras with apple-quince purée

Toasted coconut, almond, pineapple, mango

Tropical fruit, Turkish Delight, baking spice, toasted nuts [104.00]

Strawberry, hazelnut, dried apricot, mandarin

Peach, walnut, honeysuckle, orange peel [13.00]

Chicken liver terrine with kirsch

4767

$ 30 $ 180

Pinot Blanc may be sometimes be considered a perennial also-ran (it is not considered a noble variety) but these two expressions, both full of fruit and flavour, offer exceptional value.

PINOT BLANC RÉSERVE / PINOT BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES CASE3 BOTTLES EACH: GREAT WINE AT A GREAT PRICE

Lemon in colour and lemon in aroma, there are also tidbits of salted almonds, mandarin, and honeysuckle on the nose. Gathering momentum, the palate reveals peach, tropical fruit, floral, and nutty flavours. This is very approachable, well balanced, and punches well above its weight on the value scale. 2024– mp

This pale lemon number demonstrates masterful winemaking with an array of mandarin, honeysuckle, peach stone, ginger, and cinnamon notes showing up on the nose. These come together harmoniously on the palate, revealing a stripped back but laser-focussed wine. The simplicity of the delivery belies genuine depth and, of course, it is utterly moreish. 2024– mp

Pan-seared scallops with passion fruit and balsamic

Fresh lemon, salted almonds, mandarin, honeysuckle

Peach, tropical fruit, floral, almonds [3.60]

gastrique

PINOT BLANC RÉSERVE, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Pinot Blanc

Mandarin, honeysuckle, peach stone, ginger

Orange, acacia, peach stone, cinnamon [4.10]

Choucroute garni

PINOT BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Pinot Blanc

RIESLING VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC ALSACE, 2022

Riesling

Pale lemon hue and initially closed on the nose, gradually revealing Amalfi lemon, Key lime, honeysuckle and white pepper. There is good mouth feel. Citrus fruits dominate the taut, concentrated palate, that promises to develop well. Linear and clearly defined if still bashful, the fruit drives a long finish. 2024-2028– mp

RIESLING RÉSERVE, AOC ALSACE , 2022

Riesling

Amalfi lemon, Key lime, honeysuckle, white pepper

Lemon, lime, floral, perfumed, grapefruit [3.95]

Alsatian flammkuchen with Muenster, caramelized onions and bacon

Pale lemon. Discreet nose of delicate citrus notes (lime juice and lemon peel), orange blossom and dried honey. The palate begins with bracing acidity and there follows a long drive to touches of pink grapefruit, acacia and hazelnut. This is well-played, with no oak but layers of complexity. The alcohol is more apparent on the impressive finish, but it is far from overblown. 2024-2028– mp

13%

Lime juice, pink grapefruit, acacia, hazelnuts [3.65]

Pan-seared salmon with capers, dill and cream

RIESLING RÉSERVE / RIESLING VIEILLES VIGNES CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

RIESLING KNOWN AS THE SOMMELIER'S VARIETY

Lime juice, lemon peel, orange blossom, dried honey

GEWURZTRAMINER GRAND CRU FROEHN, AOC ALSACE, 2020

Gewurztraminer

Pale lemon. Discreet but nevertheless complex nose, offering dried honey, nectarine, orange blossom, marzipan, ginger, and lychee. This is medium-dry on the palate, with good weight and a complex taste profile. Citrus notes are a particular highlight, splashing on through to the joyous finish. 2024– mp

GEWURZTRAMINER GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG, AOC ALSACE, 2020

Gewurztraminer

Medium lemon, this is beautifully rendered Gewurztraminer with a delicate nose of green apple, tinned peaches, honeysuckle, rose water, and lychee. On the medium dry palate there is a change of gear, and it becomes a full-bodied, pronounced head-banger that will satisfy members looking for a bighearted white – albeit one that is completely oak free. There is balance, of course, helped by the medium acidity. In sum, rather versatile. 2024-2026– mp

4769

GEWURZTRAMINER GRAND CRU CASE - 1 BOTTLE EACH: FROEHN, ROSACKER AND SCHOENENBOURG

$ 51 $ 153

Three Gewurtraminer and three Grand Crus. Froehn, a south-south-east facing sandstone-limestone hillock east of Riquewihr, favours fruity aromatics and weight; Schoenenbourg, north of Riquewihr, is a rather steep Keuper marl slope known for body and minerality; Rosacker, east-south-east overlooking Hunawihr, creates purity and power.

GEWURZTRAMINER, GRAND CRU ROSACKER, AOC ALSACE, 2021

Gewurztraminer

Pale lemon hue and a fully developed, evocative nose of orange peel, jasmine, rose petal, and pineapple juice. Medium dry. There is obvious botrytis in the honey and lychee present on the palate but it has several dimensions, including grilled almonds among those classic exotic flavours. There is an excellent acidity that may well be attributed to Rosacker’s calcium and magnesium rich soils. 2024– mp

Dried honey, lychee, orange blossom, ginger

Rose petal, nectarine, marzipan, ginger [8.35]

Alsatian baeckeoffe

Green apple, Turkish Delight, honeysuckle, rose water, lychee

Tinned peaches, honeysuckle, rose water, lychee [8.50]

Chicken biryani

Orange peel, jasmine, rose petal, pineapple juice

Honey, lychee, grilled almonds, Turkish Delight [8.45]

Creamy yellow Thai curry

Got to Get It Back in Your Life

By Igor Ryjenkov MW

For a variety of reasons, Alsace may have been flying slightly under the radar on a few markets lately, but it has too much going for it for the status quo to persist.

Alsace occupies the northeastern corner of France and follows the border-marking Rhine River, known here as Rhin. The upper, more southerly Haut-Rhin sub-zone is responsible for some of the area’s best wines, vis-à-vis Bas-Rhin. Its natural continuation into Germany becomes Pfalz, and to its right are Baden and Black Forrest.

In many respects, the region has a lot of Germanic influence – in culture, cuisine, language, grapes selection, and wine labeling, as it was an alternating part of both counties, with the latest return to France dating to just after WWII. Until the early 2000s, it was the only region that had most of its AOC production labelled varietally before it became legal everywhere else in France.

Despite its northerly location, it actually enjoys great vine-growing conditions. The rain shadow of Vosges Mountains, whose slopes provide vineyards with elevation and a range of soils and aspects, makes it one of the driest areas in Europe and ensures a long growing season. Nearly the entire region’s production falls into the AOC/P category, AOC/P Alsace.

Its only red is Pinot Noir, but the region’s strength is its white grapes, which is reflected in the four best varieties identified as the Noble Grapes: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, best of which are a benchmark style of the grape, and Muscat. These grapes – with a rare exception - are the only ones that qualify for Grand Cru AOC/P, if sourced from a number of the classified vineyards.

The region also offers a memorable Sylvaner and a range of other wines as single grapes, like Pinot Blanc, Chasselas, or in blends, as well as a refreshing sparkling Cremant. There are also AOC/Ps for late-harvest wines from Noble Grapes – Vendage Tardive and Selection de Grains Nobles.

The common denominator is that the wines are made to showcase the freshness and the varietal expression, if so labelled - still with the stamp of their provenance - but probably more so than in other parts of the country. Most often the table wines are dry to slightly off dry, and minerally. Best Rieslings feature quartz or sandstone, lemon or lime elements, with a fresh acidity and a good weight. Pinot Gris is subtler, with Brazil nut, oiliness and clay notes, a soft acidity and a broader mouthfeel. Gewurztraminer is highly aromatic – people love it or hate it - leaping from the glass with rosewater, linden blossom and ginger, has a low acidity, but just enough that combined with the slight bitterness it holds up the structure.

The wines here rarely see any new oak, and if any oak is used, it would be neutral, large-sized casks. The wines are delicious young, but many are very age-worthy, even the aromatic Muscat and Gewurz. And they are some of the best gastronomic wines out there, with Pinot Gris, IMHO, taking the prize for the most versatile food partner. That fits well with the regional cuisine – it has a range of rich and flavorful dishes rooted in Germanic tradition but with the French twist and refinement, and the region has a high concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants.

With all this said, it would seem prudent to take advantage of any opportunity to revisit this classic region and avail yourself of a few good examples of Alsatian wines. You might just discover what you've been missing in your wine repertoire.

LANGUEDOC

Gassac

MAS DE DAUMAS GASSAC

Aimé and Véronique Guibert bought Mas de Daumas Gassac as a holiday home in 1970. Note, not as a vineyard. As is so often the case, it was a chance visit that led to the idea of planting a vineyard. One day, leading geologist Henri Enjalbert came to view Iron

Age remains in the area and noticed the unique soil type here: decomposed granite rich in trace minerals and iron oxides, left

behind by a retreating glacier. He mentioned this to Aimé, and the race was on.

Guibert, who had the means, enlisted the services of the eminent Bordelais oenologist, Émile Peynaud. The rest is truly history because it seemed nearly impossible for a wine from the Hérault to rival the top Bordeaux estates. Fifty years later, Daumas Gassac has achieved iconic status both in France and abroad. Ungrafted Cabernet is the key, and older vintages show the wisdom of Peynaud, the Bordeauc legend who supervised the planting of the vineyards and the cellar. Bravo.

FRANCE

photo — The Guibert family from left to right: Roman, Amélien, Véronique (mother), Roman, Samuel & Gael CELLAR 312 — QUEBEC

4771

MOULIN DE GASSAC COMBE CALCAIRE BLANC, IGP PAYS D'HÉRAULT 2022

Chardonnay, Rolle, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier

4772

Medium lemon. Studious nose, with a complex array of peach, nectarine, lychee, gooseberry and orange blossom. There is some heft on the palate – a rich texture and viscous mouthfeel allied to stone fruit, with a hint of both tropical and floral complexity. The finish is long and rounded with creamy notes - delicious! 2025-2026 – mp

Peach, lychee, gooseberry, orange blossom

Peach, lychee, orange blossom, honey [0.78]

Seafood medley tagine with cilantro

MOULIN DE GASSAC COMBE CALCAIRE ROUGE, IGP PAYS D'HÉRAULT, 2022

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignan

36

216 $ 36 $ 216

Medium ruby colour and developed nose showing dried fruits – prune, fig, date – plus earthy forest floor and mushroom. The palate offers baked cherries, rich dried fruits, and a powerful, warm feel. This brooding, heavily gastronomic number will benefit from a timely decant before coming into its own. 2024-2025 – mp

fig, date, forest floor, liquorice

Baked cherry, dried fruit, autumn spice, liquorice

Roast quail with blackcurrant sauce

Prune,

photo The Mas de Daumas family house

4773 MOULIN DE GASSAC BLANC, IGP PAYS D'HÉRAULT, 2022

Rolle, Grenache, Terret

23

Pale lemon colour. Clean and fresh with aromas of lemon, white peach, apple, honeysuckle and pear drop. Surprisingly well-balanced and hugely refreshing with citrus flavours, a touch of floral complexity and decent length driven as much by fruit as by acidity. 2024-2026 – mp

Lemon, white peach, apple, honeysuckle

Citrus, stone fruit, pear drop, honeysuckle [0.58]

Salmon and smoked cod with piped potato purée

4774 MOULIN DE GASSAC ROSÉ, IGP PAYS D'HÉRAULT 2022

Syrah, Carignan

Nonchalant pale salmon. Clean, simple, fresh, direct nose with tinned strawberries, white peach, yogurt and yeasty notes. Dry on the palate, with ripe red fruit and delicate floral notes. This does everything asked of it plus a little bit more. 2024-2025 – mp

4775

Tinned strawberries, white peach, yogurt, yeast

Tinned strawberries, fresh raspberries, white peach, cherry blossom [0.50]

Vanilla strawberry tart with crème fraîche

MOULIN DE GASSAC ROUGE, IGP PAYS D'HÉRAULT, 2022

Syrah, Grenache, Carignan

Pale ruby. A juicy nose of ripe red cherry, cranberry, bay leaf, oregano, wild strawberry and garrigue leads to an uncluttered palate of succulent red cherries. There is some length and herbal complexity, along with a pleasing sappiness. 2024-2025 – mp

Ripe red cherry, pomegranate, bay leaf, oregano

Ripe red cherry, cranberry, oregano, garrigue

Gigot d'agneau pleureur with assorted root vegetables

Mas de Daumas Gassac / Cabernet Sauvignon

Discovering Languedoc's Mas de Daumas Gassac

By Michael Palij MW

Mas de Daumas Gassac is a fairytale worthy of Charles Perrault, although in this case, it was a glove rather than a shoe that fit 'just so.'

Aimé Guibert was a lawyer turned glovemaker from Paris when he decided to invest in a holiday home in the Hérault. He purchased Mas de Daumas Gassac in 1970, about 30 kilometers northwest of Montpellier in the upper Gassac Valley. The estate is protected on all sides by 4000 hectares of wilderness: native forest and thick garrigue shrub.

At night, cold air from the Causse of Larzac (850 metres above sea level) drifts down and offers sustained respite from southern heat. The land is mean, stony, and difficult to cultivate, but it is a wholesome spot for a vineyard, although and needless to say, this is not what Guibert had originally intended. By chance, Henri Enjalbert, then the leading geologist at Bordeaux University, paid a visit and noticed the particular soil – a red glacial powder half a million years old that for some reason had settled there, but nowhere else[1]

Following some discussion with Enjalbert, Guibert began to plant vines in the early 70s. Grape varieties came with just a smidgeon of advice from esteemed oenologist, Émile Peynaud. Foremost among these was Cabernet Sauvignon, chosen ‘massale’ purely on the basis of quality and diversity from premier Bordeaux vineyards[2]

To many, this was a highly contrarian move. These were the twilight days of Algeria’s hearty reds and the start of massive over-production in the region.

The Languedoc of the 1970s was a brave new world for cheap blending wines rather than fancy Bordeaux blends. Anything, anywhere, from the south that was not fortified (or from the Rhône), was simply not taken seriously and in the early days, Gassac was no exception.

Growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux’s gold standard, in this hinterland was, therefore, highly risky, but Guibert persevered. He praised Cabernet’s structure — and it is a question of structure with Guibert — for Mas de Daumas Gassac is never a big wine. It is, instead, one of grace and nuance, with a lick of something mysterious.

This ‘mystery’ element can be derived from two sources: firstly, there are two hectares of garrigue, thyme, and lavender, for every one hectare of vines. Secondly, Cabernet Sauvignon typically makes up only 80% of the grand cru blend. Guibert loved to experiment; the remaining 20% (or so) invariably contains morsels of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir, along with

choice rarities such as Nielluccio and Saperavi. Viticulture is organic; vinification is Bordeaux-inspired (long fermentation and maceration in stainless) steel tank, and bottling is without filtration. Maturation is 12 to 15 months in oak barrel (10-15% new) but remain highly vintage dependent [3]

Aimé Guibert was an exceedingly good innovator well into his twilight years. He created the Moulin de Gassac range in 1991, partnering with the local co-operative in Villeveyrac to explore authentic terroir. The Combe Calcaire white is an enchanting blend of Chardonnay, Viognier & Grenache Blanc, left on the skins for 3-5 days; the red is a powerful mix of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, from sites around the port of Sète. Guibert passed away at the ripe old age of 91 in 2016 and left to his four sons (Samuel, Gaël, Roman, and Basile) one of France’s most iconic estates.

[1] George, Rosmary, MW: The Wines of the South of France, Faber & Faber, 2001.

[2] https://www.daumas-gassac.com/en/mas-de-daumasgassac-history/

[3] https://www.daumas-gassac.com/en/millesime/ mas-de-daumas-gassac-red-2021/

MAS DE DAUMAS GASSAC ROUGE, IGP SAINT-GUILHEM-LE-DÉSERT CITÉ D'ANIANE 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Complex nose and deep purple colour with layer upon layer of tantalising fruit: ripe blackcurrant, cassis, stewed plum, black cherry, bramble, blueberry – how long have we got? Also bay leaf, cedar, sawdust and char. Ageworthy palate, with hints of Bordeaux, Bourgogne, and the Rhône all bundled into one rather glorious red. There is liquorice, plum, cassis, wild strawberry, white pepper, candied fruit, cinnamon, clove and fruit cake. The Finish is equally epic. Drink 2027-2035– mp

blueberry, bay leaf, cedar

plum, candied fruit, fruit cake

lamb stew with star anise and honey

Blackcurrant,

Liquorice,

Clapassade

14.3%

a

Chardonnay

$ 109 $ 218

This barrel-fermented Chard had only 10% malo conversation and was also aged in new French oak for 10 months. A pale yellow appearance. The nose shows a medium-intensity aromatic set - thistle milk, a piquant lift, poached yellow plum and custard. On the palate it is extra dry and displays a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture and a medium body. It has a really good length and nice if s straightforward fruit - yellow plum, oily, vanilla and custard with a nice persistency and a long finish. 2024-2028– ir

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

$ 132 $ 264

This wine spent its entire life in barrels, from cold soak to 20 months of barrel aging in 80% new oak. A deep ruby, opaque appearance. Shy of medium intensity on the nose, it has a little quiet but well defined aromas of black olive, lard/bacon, tar and blackberry preserve. The palate is dry and offers a medium acidity, a medium-plus extract, medium to high fine-textured tannins, coating but not overbearing, a full but not heavy body, and a truly good length and fruit persistence with black plum, blackberry, black olive, tar and chocolate flavours ending with a medium to long finish. 2024-2030– ir

Thistle milk,

piquant lift, poached yellow plum and custard

Yellow plum, oily, vanilla and custard, [1.63]

Grilled sea bream with tomatoes and coriander

4730 ARGANAT CHARDONNAY, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2022

Black olive, lard/bacon, tar and blackberry preserve

Black plum, blackberry, black olive, tar and chocolate

Beef tagine with dried fruit an couscous

4731 TANAGRA SYRAH, CASABLANCA VALLEY 2021

Syrah

Exclusives

Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

4745

CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES SELECTION SYRAH, CENTRAL VALLEY 2023

4746 CASA NUEVA FAMILY WINES GRAN RESERVA CARMENERE, CURICÓ VALLEY 2022

It’s a deep ruby, opaque in the glass with lifted medium-intensity cassis, black olive, flint, and shoe wax notes. The palate is dry with a softer-than-medium acidity, medium extract, medium squeaky loose tannins, and a medium body with nice length and fruit featuring black olive, black plum, flint, a hint of tar, and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Sourced from ungrafted, pre-phylloxera stock vines and aged 10-12 months in small barriques. A deep purple opaque appearance in the glass, it offers medium-intensity aromas of shoe polish, tar, brownie, a woolly note, prune and a floral lift. The palate has a medium acidity, is dry and medium-framed: extract, medium-textured tannin and body. 2024-2026 – ir

An imperious nose of ripe blackcurrant, crushed rock and cocoa powder with white pepper and baking spice bringing up the rear. Densely packed on the palate, this delivers a high-energy burst of blackcurrant, green pepper, black cherry, cooked plum and cocoa. There is buoyant acidity and grippy tannins – one cannot help but enjoy this. 2024-2027– mp

Lifted, cassis, black olive, flint and shoe wax

Black olive, black plum, flint, a hint of tar

Grilled pork sausages with beans and len-tils

Black olive tapenade, tar, smoke, fireroasted bell pepper and toma-toes/ tomatillos, pico de gallo and black fruit

Plum, tar, black olive and roasted tomatillos

Barbecued smoked pork chops with chimichurri

Ripe blackcurrant, crushed rocks, cocoa powder, white pepper

Blackcurrant, green pepper, black cherry, cocoa

New York strip with blackcurrant sauce

This deep purple gem is still a baby but reveals layers of dense black fruit and spices under a blanket of struck match. There is blackberry and blackcurrant, licorice, black pepper and capsicum, while a cool menthol note rounds off the stylish, generous palate. The tannins and acidity are both dialled up a little on the finish at the moment, but this offers promising cellaring potential. 2024-2027– mp

An instant hit of coffee, chocolate, and tar from this deep purple number marks this out as one for the oak lovers. Thankfully, there is abundant fruit, too –black cherry, plum, and damson in cozy, luscious tones against a backdrop of robust tannins. It is not hard to see why Vista Flores is such a favourite spot for the production of premium reds. 2024-2025 – mp

Deep ruby. Herbal notes of menthol and blackberry leaf lend a pleasing twist to more workmanlike cassis, bramble and clove. Oak is well integrated – discreet even – with coconut and cedar poking through from a palate nicely framed by layers of dark fruit. There is a solid structural core which sustains itself through to the finish, complemented by layered fruit to complete a premium picture. 2024–2025 – mp

Grilled

Blackberry, blackcurrant, licorice, struck match

Blackberry, blackcurrant, capsicum, menthol

Burger of grilled eggplant and Portobello mushrooms

Coffee, cherry, clove, plum

Damson, chocolate, white pepper, tar

Pan-seared strip loin with creamy peppercorn sauce

Menthol, cassis, bramble, clove

Eucalyptus, cassis, coconut, blackberry leaf

chicken thighs with zesty barbecue sauce

4759 VERANO SYRAH, MENDOZA 2022

Syrah

4760 VERANO MALBEC, MENDOZA 2022

4761 INVIERNO RED BLEND, MENDOZA 2021 Syrah, Cabernet, Petit

Meet Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

Germany’s most awarded winemaker

In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!

www.opimian.ca

Only at Opimian.ca beginning February 27.

LIMITED TIME – LIMITED QUANTITIES – WEB ONLY