ORDER AUG 13 - SEPT 16, 2024
Sally Evans of Château George 7.
BORDEAUX
Wine critic Jancis Robinson, MW, recently opined that the distinction between Old and New World wines is roundly out-of-date and should be banished from the winetaster’s lexicon. Winemakers are no longer separated by geographical boundaries, nor by methodology. They are, however, still ineluctably separated by terroir even as climatic conditions are changing worldwide. And so to Bordeaux, where Edouard Moueix of Château La Fleur-Petrus has made a passionate defence of Merlot. The cool, local soils do it justice like nowhere else, he states, with more credibility than your average marketing pitch. Despite the withering humidity of 2023, many Merlot-based wines have, thus far, been very well received. In quality terms, Bordeaux is riding the crest of a wave.
From 2017 to 2020, Bordeaux saw a quartet of excellent vintages, while hot and dry 2022 produced, counterintuitively, many wines of remarkable freshness. Despite the limitations of lower yields and falling consumption, cash is now swirling around like never before. The series of dud years – like 1956 to 1958 – are less frequent and swollen coffers put the very latest tech (including optical sorting tables and reverse osmosis filters) within the reach of many. One will struggle to find anything drily tannic and 11.5% ABV in Bordeaux these days, but the best wines retain freshness and that inimitable mid-palate elegance that, for this critic at least, remains as beguiling as ever. It seems like rumours of Bordeaux’s death are greatly exaggerated, so stock up: this is one goose that is nowhere near being cooked.
BLANC, 2022
Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon
Time was that Bordeaux Blanc was sacrificed on the altar of fashion, which seems more than a little unfair with examples like this available. Fermented and aged on the lees for 6 months in largely second and third fill Burgundy barrels, the 70% Sauvignon in the blend opens with bold aromas of passion fruit, nectarine, ripe quince, and green apple. Sémillon delivers a delightful textural element together with signature notes of almond, hazelnut, and ginger. Gorgeous stuff. 2025-2027–mp
5109 PRINCE DE GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, 2020
Merlot
Although officially the château's second wine, this 100% Merlot is the result of a strict selection including the use of an optical sorter - unheard of in a wine at this price point but indicative of the attention to detail that runs through these wines. Medium ruby in the glass, it's fresh and finely-tuned nose of ripe damson, bramble and cedar leads to a cheerful palate with black cherry and blackberry plus a smattering of mint and nutmeg from nine months in French oak. The finish is creamy and long with buoyant acidity and ripe tannins. This is textbook stuff punching well above its weight. 2025-2027–mp
Ginger, ripe quince, apple, Williams pear
Passion fruit, nectarine, almond, candle wax [0.60]
Thai salad with prawns
5108 CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC BORDEAUX
Damson, bramble, cedar, milk chocolate
Black cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, mint
Tartine of roasted vegetables on sourdough
CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7
Château George 7 is one of those gripping stories of personal triumph. Sally Evans grew up in England's scenic New Forest and enjoyed a highflying corporate career (which took her to Paris's Avenue George V amongst many places). When her son was in his teens Sally shut her laptop to spend more time with her family and never returned to corporate life. She started studying wine with her characteristic passion and, two years later, acquired a parcel of vines and derelict buildings in Fronsac, an up-and-coming area on Bordeaux's right bank. Thus was born Château George 7.
The name of the Château reflects its mission: to blend the heritage and tradition of Bordeaux winemaking with forward-looking approaches and techniques. Sally is ably assisted in her award-winning venture by local viticulturist Anthony Appollot and by oenologist Bruno Lacoste, who trained and worked with Michel Rolland.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7
5110
CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:
Not much to choose from on paper between these two. Whether one prefers the developed nature of the 2019, or the more immediate power and intensity of 2020 is a matter of personal taste. Each offers much to enjoy - I'd tuck away the 2020 for a few years and enjoy the 2019 in the meantime. Now and then, an unheralded corner of Bordeaux throws up an absolute ripper of an estate, and this could well be it.
CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX, 2019
CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, GRAND VIN DE
Medium garnet in colour. Explosive on the nose with a panoply of aromas including forest floor, mushroom, game, cedar, vanilla and baking spice. Now fully mature and drinking rather beautifully, this has layers of flavour including cassis, black pepper, clove and coffee. The finish strikes a dignified and harmonious chord. 2025–2027– mp
Deep ruby hue. Pronounced nose packing a voluptuous array of Christmas cake, milk chocolate, cooked plum, dried blueberry, tar and vanilla. I am definitely feeling this. The palate's fine tannins are the result of perfectly ripe Merlot allied to 18 months in tonneaux (30% new). On the palate there is racy acidity and plenty to entertain with Victoria plum, black cherry, blackcurrant preserve, sultana and cinnamon working in concert to drive an exceptional finish. No hurry to reach for the corkscrew; this has significant potential for further development. 2028-2032–mp
Mediterranean-spiced
A sampling of pâtés,
Christmas cake, milk chocolate, dried blueberry, tar
Victoria plum, preserved fruit, sultana, cinnamon
terrines
Merlot
BORDEAUX, 2020
Merlot
Forest floor, game, vanilla, baking spice
Cassis, black pepper, clove, coffee
grilled chicken with a wild mushroom sauce
photo — Sally on harvest day
The World Comes to You
By Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors
Whether you've been an Opimian Member since the beginning or joined your fellow wine lovers along the way, you have always enjoyed exclusive, Opimian wines available to you from all over the world. Here, in our 318th Cellar Offering, the tradition continues. Two of the 'big four' with France and the USA. Portugal is here too, representing lesser-known, smaller wine regions that can pull their own weight but are not as widely available in Canada.
Another Opimian tradition is to offer you perennial favourites along with new, exciting finds. This too has been honoured in the following pages. Back for your pleasure are Maison Sichel (France), Ramillo (Portugal) and Stone Valley (USA), among others. New, are Château George 7 and Château Carbonneau (France), Herdade da Candeeira and Paulo Laureano Alfrocheiro (Portugal) and Arling Blaze and Beau Vigne (USA). Paulo was referred to us by our partner Mauricio Lorca and we are so glad he did!
Your Cellar magazine is designed to not only present the wine on offer, it is to provide you with education and entertainment as well. Make sure to enjoy Jacky Blisson, MW's Masterpiece about California and Bordeaux. Climate change is changing the game for both wine regions. The Up-to-the-Minute Newsletter on page 8 has some valuable information for you. Many of you have been taking the advice of our Cellar Up! feature to build a well-rounded, world-class cellar of your own.
Cheers to you all!
Michael & Greg
YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR
Ordering Made Easy
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Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.
Michael Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.
MASTERPIECE
Modern California meets Classic Bordeaux
By Jacky Blisson MW
Robert Mondavi was a man on a mission. He wanted to show the world that California could make world class wines to rival the greatest terroirs in Europe. Stories abound of him travelling the wine world, pouring classified growth Bordeaux against top Napa Cabernet Sauvignons to prove their worth.
Mondavi, like so many other fine wine pioneers in 1950s-1960s California, began by emulating Bordeaux – planting the same grapes, adopting similar viticultural techniques and winemaking methods. After all, the maritime influence of many of California’s major fine wine regions like Sonoma, the gravelly, alluvial soils in places like the benchlands of the Napa Valley, are traits that California shares with Bordeaux.
California’s Coming of Age
The 1976 Judgement of Paris marked a turning point for California. This famous blind tasting pitted California’s flagship estates against the best of Bourgogne and Bordeaux. In the red wine category, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon beat out Bordeaux First Growths for the number one spot. It was a verdict no one expected.
Thereafter, California winemakers gained in confidence. The riper, more generous profile of California wines had clearly won over expert French wine judges, so the industry leaned in. By the end of the century, California was known the world over for its fruit-forward Cabernet and opulent, buttery Chardonnay. Today, these two grapes represent some 40% of California’s vineyard acreage.
The hot, interior Central Valley began churning out value wines to slake the growing American thirst for its bold, fruity wines. The vineyards of the Sierra Foothills, planted during the gold rush era, carved out a name for their old vine Zinfandel and Syrah blends. Meanwhile, closer to the Pacific Ocean and the Coastal Mountain ranges, places like Sonoma, Napa, Monterey, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara County, and the like, became increasingly known for their premium, icon wines.
Post Modern California
Over the past two decades, the stereotype of “big” California wines has shifted. Long established growers are
JACKY BLISSON is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine.
now more attuned with their terroirs and a new generation has emerged, eager to experiment and intent on preserving old vines. Their new wave California wines are focused on balance and freshness.
Latest records show that over 100 grape varieties are grown across California – with increasing segmentation of cooler climate grapes/ styles like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, aromatic whites and sparkling wine in areas most directly affected by coastal fogs. Warmer, inland vineyards are dedicated to fuller bodied wine styles like the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Merlot, Zinfandel, Rhône grapes, and more.
The Enduring Eminence of Bordeaux
While California discovers its strengths, Bordeaux’s identity is firmly anchored. Global reverence for its fine wines was cemented long before its 1855 Classification of top Left Bank estates. The sheer quantity of its immaculately kept châteaux and vineyards speaks volumes of the
wealth generated by Bordeaux wineries through the centuries. Bordeaux remains a highly traditional region today, with strict viticultural and winemaking regulations guarding its signature wine styles. Its storied red wines are made, as they have been for generations, from Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon led blends, aged in French oak barrels. Its Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon dominant white wines are made in both dry and lusciously sweet styles, like Sauternes, affected by a benevolent fungus, romantically dubbed, “noble rot”.
Located on the Atlantic Coast in southwestern France, Bordeaux is the country’s largest producer of appellation wines. Though most are more familiar with its fine wines from famous terroirs like Pauillac, Margaux, or Saint Emilion, Bordeaux is also a treasure trove for value wines. Lighter, unoaked (or lightly oaked) wines from larger appellations like Bordeaux AOC or Côtes de Bordeaux make delicious everyday options.
Preserving Heritage in a Warming Climate
Across the winemaking world, warming temperatures and increasingly erratic weather patterns are a shared reality that demand adaptation in even the most classic of regions. While Californian’s look at ways to ward off forest fires, shade grapes for an increasingly hot sun, and hold moisture in arid soils, Bordeaux is fighting frost, battling mildew, and looking at new, later ripening grapes better suited to hotter growing seasons.
In 2019, Bordeaux rocked its aficionados by announcing the approval of six new varieties in the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. No need to fear for Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon’s supremacy just yet though! Only 10% of these new grapes are permitted in blends. Only time will tell how the wines of California and Bordeaux evolve. For now, each offers great value, everyday wines and excellent cellaring options for wine lovers.
UP TO THE MINUTE
MICHAEL PALIJ MW WINE TIP
Learning about any subject enhances our ability to interact with it. Even a couple of courses will enormously increase one’s ability to engage with the subject material. If you want to start a cellar and taste with more authority, then take the time to learn how to taste, read about key regions and grapes, and make sure you have a sound understanding of the journey from grape to glass.
OPIMIAN EVENTS
Producer Tastings Coming to a City Near You in 2024!
These events are a chance to taste last year’s vintage of a range of wines in the current cellar. Each tasting will focus on several producers and may include special guests!
Te Mata Estate - September 2024
Te Mata will be touring Western Canada, bringing their exceptional New Zealand wines to cities across the region. Stay updated through your Opimian emails and our Eventbrite page.
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CANADIAN CORNER
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COUPS DE COEUR
THIS CELLAR'S FAVOURITE WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE
CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC BORDEAUX BLANC, 2022, LOT 5108, P2
COUPS DE COEUR
CHÂTEAU CARBONNEAU SÉQUOIA, AOC SAINTE-FOY CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2020, LOT 5112, P11
CHÂTEAU
GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX, 2019, LOT 5110, P3
ARLING BLAZE
SIGRID IN BLACK PROPRIETARY RED, NAPA VALLEY, 2022, LOT 5159, P36
JACKY'S COUPS DE COEUR
MICHAEL'S
BORDEAUX
Château Carbonneau
Château Carbonneau is situated in a gentle, hilly landscape some distance east of the main cluster of Bordeaux appellations, along the Gironde River. The maritime climate and hot, sunny summers here allow the estate’s 23 hectares of Bordeaux varieties to thrive. The Franc de Ferrière family has been cultivating this land for over 25-years, practicing certified organic viticulture.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT CHÂTEAU CARBONNEAU
The “Pur Jus” cuvée from Château Carbonneau definitely lives up to its name. This is a fresh, juicy, unoaked Merlot-led blend. Tangy dark fruit flavours are lifted by aromatic herbal notes and underscored by savoury hints. Quite a full-bodied, taut offering at present with grippy tannins. Needs a little time to unwind. 2024-2029–jb
Black cherry, plum, violet, eucalyptus
Plum, cassis, cocoa, savoury herbs
Roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried fruit and nuts
5111 PUR JUS, AOC BORDEAUX, 2022
Merlot, Malbec
photo — Jacquie and Wilfrid Franc de Ferrière, with their dog, Mila. $ 45 $ 270
CELLAR 318 — BRITISH COLUMBIA
5112
CHÂTEAU CARBONNEAU SÉQUOIA, AOC SAINTE-FOY CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2020
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
While the “Séquoia” cuvée is already very attractive–especially on the nose–it would benefit from a couple of years’ additional bottle age to reveal its full potential. This Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend is full bodied with notable concentration of spicy, dark fruited, meaty flavours. Brisk acidity, a firm structure and fine-grained tannins ensure good, mediumterm ageing capacity. 2025-2034 –jb
5113
notes
CHÂTEAU LALANDEPOITEVIN, AOC GRAVES CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH:
The vineyards of Graves, south of Bordeaux, produce long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon blends with an intriguing earthy, minerallaced undertone. This duo from Château LalandePoitevin is a great opportunity to compare two excellent vintages: the ripe, weighty 2018 and the equally fullbodied but fresher 2019.
CHÂTEAU LALANDE-POITEVIN, AOC GRAVES, 2018
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
The 2018 vintage is showing pleasant notes of evolution with its tangy, dried red and dark fruit profile and pronounced earthiness. The palate is still showing lots of youthful zeal, however, in the way of vibrant acidity, lifted dark fruit and lingering fresh, peppery spice. Firm tannins frame the finish. Drink now. 2024-2027–jb
Dried plum, cranberry, earthy, cedar, graphite
Plum, licorice, earthy, savoury
Roast turkey with fresh cranberry sauce
CHÂTEAU LALANDE-POITEVIN, AOC GRAVES, 2019
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
A heady aromatic nose gives the 2019 vintage lots of appeal. The palate is full bodied, with a pleasant textural chalkiness deepening on the mid palate to a plush, fruity core balanced by tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins. Wellintegrated spicy, oaked nuances linger on the finish. Drinking well now, with good shortterm holding potential. 2024-2029–jb
TO
SCAN HERE
LEARN MORE ABOUT DOMAINES RODRIGUES LALANDE
Cassis, plum, floral-herbal notes, cedar
Peppery spices, cassis, plum, savoury
Jambalaya
Dried orange peel, plum, exotic spice, cedar
Plum, black cherry fruit, tobacco, nutmeg
Filet de bœuf en croûte
photo — José, Brigitte, Léa Rodrigues Lalande.
BORDEAUX ESSENTIALS
LEFT BANK
2023 genuinely looks set to be a good year for Left Bank Cabernet. For example, St. Estèphe, Pauillac and St. Julien have all experienced their best crop for at least a decade. As for Château Lousteauneuf, it covers 24 hectares in the Médoc commune of Valeyrac, just west of Saint-JulienBeychevelle. Bruno Segond works according to lutte raisonnée (principles that minimize the application of agrochemicals) on the estate that his parents, Serge and Danielle, purchased in 1962.
LES
5114
ÂNES CABERNET FRANC LOUSTEAUNEUF, AOC MÉDOC, 2023
Cabernet Franc
Deep purple and more than a splash of rock ‘n’ roll about this youthful, flamboyant number. The nose is a dynamic mix of black pepper, pencil lead, graphite, wet stone, crushed blueberry, kirsch, blackberry and even agave. A medium-bodied palate offers ripe cherry, cooked blackberry, pencil shavings, just enough vanilla and wet earth for interest, all bound by fine tannins and a decent lick of acidity. 2025–2027– mp
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR
Bordeaux Supérieur is one of those vast designations full of hidden gems. At La Bienveillance in the Entre-Deux-Mers, Marine and Florent Justo are on a mission to make artisan Bordeaux according to biodynamic principles. Château Pertignas is only a 20 minute-drive away and is run by father and son team Pierre and Vincent Gautier, who share a similar hands-off philosophy. These are small estates delivering wines that punch well above their modest price points. As always in this AC, selection is everything.
CHÂTEAU
5120
LA BIENVEILLANCE, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, MARINE ET FLORENT JUSTO, 2020
Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Fresh and direct, with no lack of weight. The morish nose entices with its plush Victoria plum aromas, black cherry, plus baking spice and clove. The fully-developed palate shows focus with flavours of blackberry, forest floor, sultana, nutmeg, black pepper and pencil shavings all framed by spritely acidity and stylish tannins in a stripped-back and quintessential “daily drinker” style. 2025–2028 –mp
5115
CHÂTEAU PERTIGNAS, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2019
Medium garnet in colour and a well-crafted nose of ripe forest fruits that combine seamlessly with oaky notes of vanilla and dark chocolate. Fruit to the fore on the palate, the black cherry and plum flavours enhanced by some chunky cedar and fulsome tannins that drive towards a robust finish. 2025–2028 – mp
Black pepper, graphite, kirsch, agave
Ripe black cherry, vanilla, wet stone, wet earth
Herb-crusted rack of lamb with grilled asparagus 13.5%
Raspberry, blackberry, vanilla, dark chocolate
Cassis, plum, cedar, black cherry
Braised short ribs
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Victoria plum, clove, baking spice, black pepper
Blackberry, pencil shavings, nutmeg, forest floor
Chicken and mushroom Parmesan
5121
CHÂTEAU CALENDREAU, AOC BORDEAUX, PRESTIGE, 2020
5116
CHÂTEAU PINET LA ROQUETTE, LE BOUQUET, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2020
Merlot, Cabernets, Malbec
Classic Bordeaux featuring blackcurrant, red currant, wet stone and licorice on the nose. The oak-free palate reveals vibrant black fruit (mulberry, plum) wrapped in ripe tannins and supported by a healthy streak of acidity. The finish is taut and composed with additional notes of licorice. 2025–2027–mp
13.5%
Deep ruby hue. This leads with tertiary notes of forest floor, dried bramble and pencil shavings. The palate broadens to reveal pronounced black fruit notes plus oaky cedar, coffee and toast. Tannins are well integrated and the acidity pushes it along nicely, but what really stands out is the impressive intensity on the midpalate. 2025–2028 –mp
RIGHT BANK
Maison Sichel–of Angludet and Palmer fame–purchased Calendreau in 2020. It is favourably situated on one of the highest limestone/clay ridges in the Entre-Deux-Mers, benefiting from excellent drainage, exposure and ventilation. Pinet La Roquette is a small family affair covering nine hectares just outside the town of Blaye. Its wines have been keenly reviewed by leading critics. Château Croix des Rouzes was inherited by the Carles family in 1994. They have been on the Right Bank since the late 19th century.
a
5117
CHÂTEAU CROIX DES ROUZES, AOC POMEROL, 2019
Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Leads with a big-hearted blast of cooked black fruit including plum and cherry but also baking spice, Bakewell tart, leather, griottes, black cherry and dried cranberry. Plenty of alcohol provides body while melded tannins and moderate acidity add structure and drive a concentrated, lingering finish. Classic Pomerol to be enjoyed now or in a few years. 2025–2030 – mp
griottes,
Wild mushroom-stuffed roast veal
14%
Forest floor, dried bramble, pencil shavings, toast
Cooked blackberry, coffee, blackcurrant, cedar
Charbroiled steak with
red wine sauce
Red currant, blackcurrant, wet stone, licorice
Mulberry, blackcurrant, black plum, black pepper
Pan-seared salmon
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Blackberry, black cherry, cooked plum, fruit cake
Leather,
black cherry, dried cranberry
photo — Tasting with Anne-Emilie and David Rodriguez at Château Pinet La Roquette.
PORTUGAL
Manuel Francisco Ramilo & Filho
The blustery westernmost point in continental Europe is where it all began for brothers Pedro and Nuno Ramilo. Their great-grandfather had practised viticulture at Colares, but it was an unforgiving task: the winds whip in off the Atlantic, and the weather is so moody that vines must be trained almost to the ground to take advantage of heat and shelter. By the end of last century, the family had thrown in the towel. But the wheel has turned: Pedro and Nuno are dead-set on making high-quality wines that show off the best of this tough, maritime spot, where the vines are still ungrafted. In the winery, they like to keep it natural with low sulphites and spontaneous fermentations.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RAMILO WINES
photo — The Ramilo harvest team posing on the last day of harvest.
CELLAR 318 — BRITISH COLUMBIA
5124
There is a hint of volatile acidity (VA) on this, and so it carries a health warning if that’s not your thing. It’s easy to see what they are doing here: there is a core of solid–even exceptional–stone fruit layered with citrus and floral notes including peach, apple, apricot, pear, tangerine, grapefruit, acacia, honeysuckle and wisteria. The fruit here is gorgeous and, tasted the next morning, it was still in rude health. 2025–2027– mp
5125 RAMILO NATIVAS BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2023
Arinto, Vital, Malvasia
This straw-yellow number gets right to it offering an inviting nose of banana, melon, lychee, passion fruit, plus dairy notes of yogurt and fresh cream. On the palate, there is an attractive phenolic edge from skin contact together with pronounced apple, grapefruit and melon notes. Further complexity comes in the form of ginger, hazelnut and candle wax flavours. This may be a light-bodied wine, but it has considerable personality. 2025–2027 – mp
fruit and floral
Grapefruit, apple, ginger, hazelnut [0.00]
Sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) with rosemary and paprika
12.5%
Banana, melon, passion fruit, fresh cream
Peach, apple, apricot, pear
Stone
notes with some VA: tangerine, grapefruit, acacia, honeysuckle [0.00]
Seafood salad
RAMILO COLHEITA BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2023
Arinto, Viosinho, Fernão Pires
5126
If it works for Jacques Selosse …. This is an oxidative style showing complex aromas of apple skin, apricot, peach, wet stone, pastry dough, lime juice and honeycomb. There is no stopping the energetic palate which offers ginger, candle wax, honeycomb, tinned peaches, wet wool, marzipan and almond. Zippy acidity takes this all the way through to a wonderfully long finish. Drink 2025–2027– mp
5127 RAMILO MALVASIA DE COLARES BRANCO, DOC COLARES, 2022
$ 119 $ 238
Medium gold hue. Layers of grape, apple, wet stone and hazelnut on the nose. The palate reveals a heady combo of stone and tropical fruit–apricot, quince and banana. This wine has tremendous character and dares to be different. 2025–2030 – mp
Apple skin, pastry dough, lime juice, honeycomb
Ginger, tinned peaches, wet wool, almond [0.00]
Singapore mei fun noodles 13%
Grape, apple, wet stone, hazelnut
Apricot, quince, banana, almond [0.00]
Serra da Estrela cheese
RAMILO GALEGO DOURADO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2023
Galego Dourado
Malvasia de Colares
5128 RAMILO NATIVAS, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022
Castelão
Fancy a low sulphur dioxide (SO2) red that is brimming with bright red fruit? Look no further. The nose is full of juicy aromas of blackcurrant, cherry, mint and white pepper. There is a lovely core of crunchy red fruit and some uplifting florals, including rose, jasmine, violet, dried blueberry and black cherry. With its punchy acidity and restrained tannins, this is a real winner for earlydrinking pleasure. 2025–2027–mp
5129
Medium ruby hue. Complex, even haunting, nose of hawthorn, violets, pomegranate, candyfloss and a heady mix of peach and melon. The palate has a deep, concentrated core of rose, lavender, redcurrant and peach supported by noticeably grippy tannins and taut acidity. This is a highly original wine with impressive length that promises to evolve well. 2028–2032–mp
Blackcurrant, cherry, mint, white pepper
Rose, jasmine, violet, dried blueberry
Bucatini with beef-veal Bolognese
12%
Hawthorn, violets, pomegranate, candyfloss
Rose, red currant, lavender, peach
Transmontano goat cheese
5130
HERDADE DA CANDEEIRA SUPERIOR TINTO, DOC ALENTEJO, 2021
Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca
$ 37 $ 222
The Herdade da Candeeira Superior Tinto is quite an overt red wine, deep in colour with macerated fruit flavours and candied undertones. The palate is equally bold with sweet fruit flavours tapering to a dry finish. The tannins are somewhat mouthcoating so be sure to serve with food. 2024-2026 –jb
Parras Wines
Much like Obelix’s early tumble into the druid’s magic potion, Luís Vieira likes to joke that he must have fallen into a wine barrel in his youth, given his great passion for Portuguese wine. Vieira founded Parras Vinhos in 2010 and now owns vineyards across the country. The Alentejo region is a particularly important region, offering great value and quality.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT PARRAS WINES
Jammy black and blue fruit, hints licorice
Jammy black and blue fruit
Grilled Porterhouse steak
photo — Bottom photo - Nuno Morais, Winemaker of Herdade da Candeeira. The photo was taken in Herdade da Candeeira, in Redondo in the Alentejo Region, where the company owns 200 hectares of vineyards.
CELLAR 318 — BRITISH COLUMBIA
5131 PAULO LAUREANO NOSSO TERROIR TINTO, DOC ALENTEJO, 2022
Trincadeira, Aragonez & Alicante Bouschet
The fruit is ripe, rounded, forward and has a comforting weight that fills out the mouth. The tannins are still spiky but a year or two will see a marked improvement. There's a satisfying juiciness to the finish with blackberry, graphite, liquorice, mushroom, cooked plum, and a hint of vanilla. 2025-2028.–mp
5132 PAULO LAUREANO ALFROCHEIRO, DOC ALENTEJO, 2018
Alfrocheiro
The Portuguese grape Alfrocheiro was historically favoured for its early, reliable ripening. It was mainly used in blends for its deep colour and balanced sugar profile. Today, however, excellent single variety bottlings are emerging–like this interesting 2018 vintage. This is a complex, juicy-fruited red with layers of floral, herbal and graphite. Very firm and tannic at present. Decant or pair with a weighty dish. 2024-2034 –jb
Blackberry, cassis, crushed blueberry, liquorice
Blackberry, cassis, crushed blueberry, liquorice Graphite, mushroom, cooked plum, vanilla
Grilled steak with mushroom sauce
14%
Plum, cassis, violet, graphite, cedar
Plum, red cherry, dark chocolate, dried herbs
Morcela sausage with potatoes and paprika
photo — Luis Vieira, founder and CEO of Parras Wines, with his friend Mauricio Lorca, a well-known Opimian producer.
Pale lemon hue. Classic aromas of elderflower, gooseberry and lemon zest. The palate is light and easy-going, offering pleasing flavours of cut grass, gooseberry and lime juice. As no frills efforts go, this hits the mark offering buoyant acidity and plenty of happy-go-lucky character. 2025–2027–mp
Medium ruby colour. Forward, jovial nose of red currant, blackcurrant, red cherry and spicy cardamom. The acidity and tannins ably support the spritely palate of red plum, cranberry, licorice and damp earth so that it more than holds its own. 2025–2027–mp
Cut grass, lemon, floral, lime juice [<2.00]
Excellent as an apéritif
and soy-marinated
Elderflower, gooseberry, lemon zest, grapefruit
5122
BEL AIR, AOC BORDEAUX, SAUVIGNON, FAMILLE SICHEL, 2023
Sauvignon Blanc
Red currant, blackcurrant, red cherry, cardamom
Red plum, cranberry, licorice, earthy notes
Balsamic
grilled skirt steak
5123
BEL AIR, AOC BORDEAUX, MERLOT CABERNET, FAMILLE SICHEL, 2021
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
photo — Celebrating sunshine with a good glass of white and red wine by the Garonne river.
CELLAR 318 — BRITISH COLUMBIA
5133 PAULO LAUREANO BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO, 2022
This has a lovely balance and weight with ripe stone fruit including apricot and peach along with citrus notes of tangerine and lime. The finish shows more ripe fruit with supporting acidity and weight from lees ageing adding a gorgeous rounded note. Absolute winner at this price! Drink 2025–2027–mp
5134 PAULO LAUREANO TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO, 2022
Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet
This easy, quaffing red is an unoaked blend of three typical Alentejo grapes: Aragonez (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. Deep ruby. Nose is discreet, with hints of baked dark fruit, black olives, and baking spice upon aeration. Fresh acidity, medium bodied, warming alcohol, and a short finish. 2025-2026 –jb
WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
Apricot, peach, pear, melon
Tangerine, lime, red apple [4.00]
Grilled tuna steaks with mango-orange salsa
Raspberry purée, blackberry, violet, olives
Tangy red fruits, olive, earthy
Pasta arrabbiata
Antão Vaz, Arinto
photo — Paulo Laureano, winemaker of Paulo Laureano Wines.
5136 MIRANTE, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2023
Fernão Pires, Seara Nova, Vital
$ 23 $ 276
Pale lemon-green hue. Fresh, fragrant nose of lemon, honeydew melon, white peach and asparagus. The palate is forthright and zippy with an unorthodox profile of melon juice, apple skin, lemon zest and cooked greens. A great introduction to Portugal’s regional white wines. 2025–2027–mp
5137 MIRANTE, TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022
Syrah, Castelão, Aragonez
$ 23 $ 276
Deep purple hue. Youthful, bright nose with aromas of bramble, kirsch, vanilla and blueberry. The medium-bodied palate has a healthy core of red and black fruit, including raspberry, Methley plum, blackcurrant and cassis. Plenty of drive to this, and the acidity has an appealing bite. 2025–2027–mp
Lemon, honeydew melon, white peach, asparagus
Melon juice, apple skin, lemon zest, cooked greens [<1.00]
Steamed mussels
Bramble, kirsch, vanilla, blueberry
Raspberry, blackcurrant, Methley plum, cassis
Bacalhau with tomato sauce and capers
5145 STONE VALLEY MERLOT, CALIFORNIA, 2022
Merlot, Petite Verdot, Malbec
WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
A ripe, well-balanced northern California Merlot with classic plummy fruit underscored by refreshing vegetal base tones. Fresh and lithe on the palate with pronounced red and dark fruit, lingering herbal nuances and reasonably smooth tannins. The finish is rounded with a touch of fruity sweetness. Drink now. 2024-2027–jb
5146
STONE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CALIFORNIA, 2022
5147
STONE VALLEY CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA, 2022
Chardonnay
Cabernet Sauvignon is California’s most planted red variety, the grape thriving in the state’s warm, sunny climate. This everyday red offers heady, ripe-fruited flavours with sweet baking spice undertones. The palate is smooth and broad with overt sweet oaked nuances and moderately firm tannins. 2024-2026 –jb
Chardonnay is by far the most popular white wine grape in California. The 2022 vintage Stone Valley is a good example with its tangy orchard and stone fruit, its crisp acidity, rounded structure and dry finish. Oak-derived notes of butterscotch are well integrated, adding to the overall harmony of this ripe, simple, well-made white. 2024-2028 –jb
Red plum, cassis, red bell pepper
Tangy red and dark fruit, herbal
Chicken scaloppini
Red cherry, plum, nutmeg, caramel
Candied red fruit, caramel, vanilla
Hearty lentil stew with mushrooms and dumplings
Pear, peach, ginger, butterscotch
Tangy stone fruit, apple, lemon [4.00]
Waldorf salad
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Merlot
CELLAR UP!
WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR
Cultivate your curiosity while building a balanced cellar.
Cellar Up! has been designed to offer you the full Opimian experience. A mix of classics and musthaves, sprinkled with new products and unique tasting experiences.
2022, LOT 5159, P36
We have to quote from Michael Palij MW's tasting note - "This is bold, ambitious and lives up to the hype." That's why this is a Coup de Coeur and why we think it belongs in your cellar and on your dinner table.
NEW CHÂTEAU GEORGE 7, AOC FRONSAC, GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX CASE3 BOTTLES EACH, LOT 5110, P3
We are so often talking about centuries old wineries with ancient vines. Well not for this one. Château George 7 was established in 2017 and is already producing world class wines. This vertical case will give you a great sense of this wine. The 2019 drinkable on arrival and will cellar; the 2020 will benefit from some time in your cellar.
VINHO
2023, LOT 5124, P15
When was the last time you went to dinner or a party and someone brought out a stunning, Portuguese wine? ... We thought so. Add this to your cellar and then take it out for dinner. You'll be the belle of the ball!
$ 1221
VINHO
LISBOA, 2022, LOT 5128, P17
Ever cellar deserves to have some wines that rest before they peak and those that you can grab anytime to enjoy right away. This is one of the latter. Perfect to have available for immediate drinking whenever the mood strikes you.
CAVES CAMPELO
Caves Campelo is nearing its 75th anniversary. Since its inception, the winery has expanded its focus beyond its base in northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde territory. Although Campelo still produces this signature style of light and invigorating white wines, their range now includes great value whites, reds and fortified wines from across the country’s northern and southern vineyards.
The “Adamante” cuvée is an intriguing blend of popular local varieties–Fernão Pires, Arinto, Malvasia–with international grapes, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. This is an agreeable, uncomplicated white for lovers of light, citrussy, high-acid whites. A hint of lingering salinity refreshes the finish. Drink now. 2024-2026 –jb
5139 CAMPELO ADAMADO, DOC VINHO VERDE, 2023
Loureiro, Trajadura, Arinto, Avesso
This is a classic Vinho Verde with its signature zesty acidity and delicate effervescence. Flavours of lemon and lime zest dominate, giving way to a subtle minerality. The finish is clean and invigorating. Overall, a light, low-alcohol and summery white that offers good value. Drink now. 2024-2026 –jb
à Bulhão
Honey, apple, lemon, earthy
Lemon, green fruit, hint salinity [2.50]
Arroz de tamboril (rice and monkfish)
Lemon, apple, pear drop, white flowers
Lemon, lime, apple, subtle minerality [11.00]
Amêijoas
Pato (“poet” clams with Vinho Verde)
5138 ADAMANTE, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2023
Fernão Pires, Arinto, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier
photo — On the left, Helder Lima, Managing partner of Caves Campelo, walking through the vineyard with an employee.
PORTUGAL ESSENTIALS
SANTOS E SEIXO
Two names; one vision: to produce wines of genuine local Portuguese character. Alzira dos Santos and Pedro Seixo released their first batch in 2015, initially focusing on the Douro and Alentejo. Both of our examples come from vineyards located near the city of Tomar in the northern Tejo. Encosta do Sobral stands out for being planted on the only shale plots in the region, which absorb moisture and gradually releases it to help create concentrated, vibrant wines that retain natural acidity.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT SANTOS E SEIXO
Medium ruby. Clean and fresh, leading with bright red fruit including cherry, strawberry and cranberry. There is crunchy red fruit galore on the brisk palate, and one senses the impact of warm days and cool nights in this part of the Serra de Tomar. Stylish tannins and smooth oak round off a stellar effort. 2025–2027– mp
Medium ruby hue. Focused aromas of cassis, black cherry, balsamic and a forest floor-vegetal note that is rather enjoyable. The medium-bodied palate is both supple and assured, neatly-portioned flavours of blackcurrant, bell pepper, cedar and earthy mushroom working in tandem. This has fine-grained tannins to partner balanced acidity while the fruit asserts itself with aplomb on the finish. 2025–2029 – mp
Tejo is located in central Portugal along the banks of the Rio Tejo (Tagus River). This sunny, Mediterranean wine region has an undulating landscape of rolling hills and fertile plains producing supple whites and ripe, rounded red wines. The Jangada cuvée is a harmonious, unoaked red with a firm, fresh character, lively fruit and refreshing dark chocolate bitters. 2024-2027–jb
Cherry, strawberry, cranberry, floral
Raspberry, plum, red currant, licorice
Portuguese pork and bean stew
Cassis, black cherry, balsamic, forest floor
Blackcurrant, bell pepper, cedar, mushroom [0.60]
Spiced Thai beef noodles
13%
Plum, dark cherry, cocoa, exotic spice
Wild berries, plum, dark chocolate
Charcoal-grilled Posta Mirandesa
5140 CABEÇO DA PEDRA, TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022
Castelão, Aragonez, Trincadeira
5141
ENCOSTA DO SOBRAL SELECTION TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022
Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
5142
JANGADA, VINHO TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022
Castelão, Tinta Roriz, Trincadeira
photo — Encosta do Sobral facilities, located in the Tejo region.
5143 RÉCCUA PORTO, 20 ANOS, DOC PORTO, NV
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and others
The Réccua is a 20-yearold tawny port meaning that the wine is aged for an average length of 20 years in elongated oak casks called pipes. Over time, this oxidative process transforms primary fruity, floral aromas into nutty, dried fruit savoury notes. Acidity softens and tannins become more mellow. This is a weighty, smooth example with a fine balance of flavours, luscious sweetness and a pleasantly warming finish. 2024-2029 –jb
Dried cranberry, potpourri, walnut, toffee
Savoury, nutty, dried red fruit [108]
With leite crème (crème brûlée) or as a digestif
GESPROVE
As if Port were not already criminally good value. Everyone likes a Port house that flies under the radar, and Gesprove is just that: a small, family-owned business cautious about its releases, headed up by local farmer, José Pinheiro. He does authenticity at an exceptionally fair price–which may sound like a strapline, but I urge you to try his wines.
5144
SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO CASE - 2 BOTTLES EACH: LBV 2018, RESERVA TAWNY AND RESERVA ESPECIAL
SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO, RESERVA TAWNY
Blend of Traditional Douro Grape Varieties
Medium amber hue. A complex and deliberately oxidized nose exhibiting a sterling array of butter, clove, nutmeg, bruised apple, caramel, toffee, cedar, tobacco, Chinese five-spice and licorice. Lighter than expected, the palate nevertheless impresses with well-defined cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove and milk chocolate notes which persist onto the long finish. Drink now – mp
Blend of Traditional Douro Grape Varieties
Deep purple. Pronounced nose of crushed blueberry, damson, ink, hazelnut, walnut and burned coffee. Classic late-bottled vintage with plenty of umph. Rich palate of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, hazelnut and blackberry preserve. The tannins are firm but well-judged and the assertive acidity adds a welcome uplift. Drink now.– mp
Pastel de Nata
SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO, RESERVA ESPECIAL
Blend of Traditional Douro Grape Varieties
The palate is richly textured with very ripe black cherry, black plum, cigar ash, chocolate, licorice and sweet spice while the fresh acidity and moderate tannins round out the finish with the sugar playing no more than a supporting role. This is an uncompromisingly bold, tannic, old-school Port–and I am a big fan. At this price, there is plenty to like. Drink now.– mp
Baked black cherry, cooked plum, black licorice, dark chocolate
Cherry jam, cinnamon, nutmeg, hints of vanilla and cedar [107.00]
Salame de chocolate with pistachios
Bruised apple, caramel, Chinese five-spice, tobacco
Milk chocolate, nutmeg, clove, ginger [107.00]
Crushed blueberry, walnut, burnt coffee, ink
Blackcurrant, dark chocolate, hazelnut, blackberry preserve [107.00]
Blue-veined cheese sampler plate
SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO, LBV, 2018
OREGON HOLLORAN VINEYARDS
Encompassing the states of Oregon and Washington, the Pacific Northwest is justifiably famous for its proximity to Burgundy and its humdinger Bordeaux blends from Washington State. Commercial vineyards in this region emerged only in the 1960s, nearly a century after California, yet it has become a hotbed for investment and high standards. Oregon, situated on the same latitude as Bordeaux and Burgundy and influenced directly by maritime climates, provides an ideal habitat for delicate, aromatic Pinot Noir. Nestled between the Coastal and Cascade Mountain ranges, the cool, rainy climate of Oregon fosters the gradual development of Pinot Noir's hallmark acidity and the symphony of red fruit flavors that connoisseurs cherish. Though wines from this region may not come cheap, they offer excellent value when compared to counterparts from Burgundy and Bordeaux. Moreover, the Pacific Northwest leads the charge in the US sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wine movement.
Handcrafted with passion since 1999, Holloran Vineyards encapsulate the essence of the Willamette Valley through sustainable farming practices, organic and biodynamic methods, and beautifully delicate aromatics. With a focus on small yields, the vineyard ensures the utmost attention to detail, meticulously executing tasks such as shoot thinning, leaf removal, hedging, and crop reduction. Oregon's cooler climate provides an ideal canvas for expressive renditions of Burgundian classics, notably Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while remaining faithful to Old World traditions. Each vintage and vineyard's unique characteristics shine through in every bottle, showcasing the distinct volcanic terroir of the region.
5152 HOLLORAN PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 2022
A full-bodied, structured yet refreshing Pinot Noir that reveals layers of vivid fruit with herbal, floral and spiced nuances emerging over time. The palate is brisk and moderately concentrated with a plush midpalate texture tapering to medium-weight, well-formed tannins. Though the oak is well integrated, this fine Pinot would benefit from additional cellaring to fully harmonize. 2025-2030 –jb
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HOLLORAN VINEYARDS
Cranberry, black cherry, clove, floral notes
Red plum, cassis, cherry, cinnamon, savoury undertone
Grilled flank steak with soy-brown sugar sauce
Pinot Noir
photo — Bill Holloran checking the quality of his wines.
Squash Velouté with Hazelnut Crumble Topping
Squash velouté, a staple of French cuisine, elevates humble squash into a luxuriously smooth and creamy soup. This velvety dish begins with a base of roux—butter and flour— combined with a light stock to create a luscious texture. Enhanced with the natural sweetness of squash, such as butternut or pumpkin, this soup is served piping hot, garnished with fragrant herbs, crispy croutons, or a delicate swirl of cream for an irresistible presentation and flavour.
Prep: 20 mins
Cook: 30 mins
Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS
• 1.5 kg pumpkin or butternut Squash
• 45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil
1 shallot chopped finely
1 medium-sized potato peeled and diced
500 ml hot vegetable stock
Salt and pepper
50 g butter, diced small
50 g flour
50 g grated Parmesan cheese
• 30 g hazelnuts
• 1 large slice of sourdough or wholemeal bread
50 g blue cheese
1 handful of sprouting seeds such as leeks or alfalfa
1. Peel and cut the pumpkin into cubes; discard the seeds. In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, put 30 ml (2 tbsp_ of olive oil and cook the shallot, potato and pumpkin for 5 minutes without browning. Add the hot vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, uncover, and let simmer until the vegetables are cooked. Season to taste.
2. Remove from the heat and blend until smooth adding a little water if it is too thick. Keep warm.
3. Preheat the oven to 350 °F. In a bowl, rub the cubed butter into the flour with your fingertips. Mix in the Parmesan cheese and the roughly chopped hazelnuts. Place this mixture on a baking sheet, covered with parchment paper. Bake in the oven until the crumble turns golden brown. Take out of the oven and set aside.
4. Cut the slice of bread into cubes and in a hot pan with 1 tbsp of olive oil, brown the croutons until they turn golden. Set them aside on a plate covered with absorbent paper. Cut the cheese into small cubes.
5. Pour the velouté into the soup plates, sprinkle on the croutons, the hazelnut crumble and a few cubes of blue cheese. Finish with sprouted shoots. Serve piping hot.
This recipe was provided by Sally Evans from Château George 7, tailored to pair beautifully with the Château 7 AOC Fronsac, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, 2019.
CALIFORNIA
Viticulture and winemaking were brought to California in the late 18th century by Spanish missionaries. The earliest vineyards were planted to produce sacramental wines using a native Spanish red grape, aptly named Mission (a.k.a. Pais or Criolla). Today, California is the world’s fourth largest wineproducing region with a firm commitment
to sustainable winemaking. Its vineyards dot the north and central coast, as well as the hot, fertile Central Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the two leading grapes today, though Zinfandel is still a revered heritage variety. Pinot Noir is also popular, producing best results in cooler, coastal areas.
5151
BLACK SHEEP ZINFANDEL, BLEND THREE SINGLE VINEYARDS, CALAVERAS COUNTY, 2020
Calaveras County is one of the oldest in California, established during the Gold Rush. Steve Millier founded Black Sheep Winery in 1984 in Murphys, California, with the aim to produce distinctive Zinfandel wines. This warm vineyard area in the Sierra Foothills is well suited to the Zinfandel grape. The Black Sheep 2020 is a blend of three vineyard sites offering spicy, dark fruited, chocolatey notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and firm with a bold structure and lingering herbal nuances. Needs time to unwind. 2024-2028 –jb
Plum, cassis, dark chocolate, oregano
Dark fruit, cocoa, dried herbal hints
Texas-style beef brisket
Zinfandel
photos — Winemaker Steve Millier inspecting his Zinfandel.
KAUTZ FAMILY WINES
Young row-crop farmer John Kautz was a big believer in the wine grapegrowing potential of Lodi, in California’s Central Valley. From a humble 4.9 hectare vineyard in 1948, Kautz grew his holdings to over 5,000 acres. Kautz Family Wines is now run by the fourth generation. The family prides itself on their aromatic, expressive Lodi and Sierra Foothills AVA wines.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT KAUTZ FAMILY WINES
5148 KAUTZ & KRAMER CHARDONNAY, SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY, LODI, 2022
Chardonnay
$ 53 $ 318
An opulent, lightly oaked Chardonnay with overt aromas reminiscent of lemon meringue pie, baked pear and tropical fruit. This heady, ripe nose is balanced on the palate by crisp acidity and lively flavours. Not a hugely complex or persistent wine but reasonably well balanced with good Lodi typicity. 2024-2029 –jb
Pear, lemon curd, mango, hints vanilla
Lemon, apple, pear, butter [2.50]
Coconut shrimp tortas
photos — Top - Harvesting Kautz & Kramer Cabernet Sauvignon. Bottom - Gail & John Kautz.
CELLAR 318 — BRITISH COLUMBIA
5149 KAUTZ & KRAMER CABERNET SAUVIGNON, BLOCK 50, LODI 2021
5150
KAUTZ & KRAMER CABERNET FRANC, SHELDON RANCH BLOCK 72, LODI, 2021
Cabernet Franc $ 68 $ 408 $ 68 $ 408
The Block 50 Cabernet Sauvignon is full bodied, with a fleshy, broad structure tapering to firm tannins. An array of smoky, savoury and sun-baked fruity aromas leap from the glass. These same flavours are repeated on the palate. Finishes dry. Decant and serve with hearty dishes. 2024-2032–jb
The Sheldon Ranch Block 72 vineyard produces Cabernet Franc in quite a potent, amply proportioned style. While the nose promises quite a ripe, generous profile, the palate leads with vigorous acidity giving a more lifted quality to the fruit. Finishes dry with quite pronounced tannins. Drinking well now, with a meal, but would benefit from additional cellaring. 2024-2030 –jb
Ripe and baked red fruit, savoury Bacon-wrapped dates
Plum, cassis, baking spice, tobacco
Baked ziti with prosciutto and fontina cheese
Smoky, meaty, baked red fruit, floral
Cabernet Sauvignon 14.5%
Baked plum, violet, vanilla, nutmeg
HOOK & LADDER
Firefighter Cecil De Loach made a radical career change when he purchased his first Sonoma County vineyards in 1970. One of the earliest champions of fine Sonoma Pinot Noir, the De Loach family grew in acclaim over the years. In 2003, the family created a new boutique winery, Hook & Ladder. Today, grandson Jason De Loach heads up this sustainably farmed, terroirfocussed estate.
5153
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HOOK & LADDER WINERY
HOOK & LADDER THE TILLERMAN RED BLEND, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, SONOMA COUNTY, 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Chalk Hill is a warmer, inland subappellation in Sonoma County, well suited to late-ripening grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon. This Bordeaux blend has hightoned black and blue fruit flavours, with underlying oak-derived notes of cedar and spice. Still very youthful with brisk acidity and grippy tannins. Best with one to two further years of ageing. 2025-2035 –jb
5154
HOOK & LADDER PINOT NOIR, ESTATE BOTTLED, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, 2022
Pinot Noir
The Russian River area is renowned for its Pinot Noir, in a richer, more forward style than Sonoma coasts versions. This 2022 vintage is ripe, floral, and spicy with bright acidity and a velvety texture. Finishes with rounded tannins wrapped in heady fruit. Quite a big, broad Pinot Noir. 2024-2032–jb
Baked plum, violet, vanilla, nutmeg
Plum, cassis, baking spice, tobacco
Melanzane alla parmigiana
Baked cherry, rose, vanilla, clove
Raspberry, plum, cherry, spiced tea
Duck Confit with Cherry Gastrique
photo — Jason De Loach.
5155
BEAU VIGNE OLD SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON, NAPA VALLEY, 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon
$ 128 $ 384
Deep ruby hue. There is no escaping those opulent Napa Cab notes of cassis, eucalyptus, vanilla and fragrant blackcurrant leaf. The richly concentrated palate is awash with flavour, melding wave after wave of pure black fruit with creamy oak and high, yet restrained, levels of acidity and tannins. Somewhat predictably, the finish goes on for eons. 2028–2032– mp
5156
CULT 13TH ANNIVERSARY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, THE BEAU VIGNE COLLECTION, NAPA VALLEY, 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon
$ 143 $ 429
Deep ruby. Sultry nose of blackcurrant, black pepper, sandalwood and tar teetering on the brink of generosity. The palate is not at all showy, rather exhibiting weighty layers of cassis, blackberry, crushed blueberry, black cherry, plus oaky notes including cedar, vanilla, leather and cigar box. Medium acidity and tannins but unquestionably enough depth to grow old gracefully. 2028–2032–mp
Grilled ribeye with blue cheese and wild
BEAU VIGNE
Beau Vigne has been hitting the high notes in Napa for some time: winemaker Julien Fayard has been at the helm since 2019 and is no stranger to the scene with a distinguished 20 years on his resumé working for the likes of Purlieu and Brion. He has previously worked at first growth Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Lafite.
His wines display considerable finesse given their heft and receiving much critical acclaim including some perfect scores. He produces just a few thousand cases each year for Beau Vigne, sourcing from the cool-climate, proprietary Stag’s Ridge vineyard on Atlas Peak alongside established vineyards in Napa and Sonoma.
Eucalyptus, vanilla, cassis, blackcurrant leaf
Blackcurrant, Triple Crown blackberry, creamy oak, black cherry
Parmesan polenta with spicy sausage ragù
Blackcurrant, black pepper, sandalwood, tar
Cassis, crushed blueberry, cigar box, griottes
mushrooms
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT BEAU VIGNE
5159
ARLING BLAZE SIGRID IN BLACK PROPRIETARY RED, NAPA VALLEY, 2022
Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel
Deep purple hue. The panache of Zinfandel comes through in plump, tinned strawberry and raspberry aromas with plenty of fine detail. Sweet spice, cassis, vanilla and tobacco lend a touch of refinement to this fruity exuberance. On the palate, it’s a three-horse race between the Zin, Cabernet’s more familiar cassis, menthol and black cherry, joined by neatly parcelled oaky notes of licorice, leather and tar. This is bold, ambitious and lives up to the hype.
2025–2030 – mp
Strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco
Red currant, black cherry, menthol, leather
Braised lamb shanks and cannellini beans
ZINFANDELIC
No prizes for guessing Zinfandelic’s focus! This specialized winery is dedicated to California’s heritage grape. Though Zinfandel is Croatian in origin, and genetically identical to southern Italy’s Primitivo grape, the fruit forward, spiced, full-throttle expression favoured by California producers like Zinfandelic is unique.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ZINFANDELIC
ARLING BLAZE
With mischievous flair, Arling Blaze describe themselves as “the darker side of California.” They are a hush-hush boutique winery founded in 2017 sourcing from 146 hectares of grower-owned California vineyards. We can reveal they have a penchant for classical references and moody label art. Expect life-size things.
SCAN HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ARLING BLAZE
Tangy and dried red fruit feature on the nose of this 2021 Lodi red. The palate is fresh, full bodied and moderately firm in structure with bold yet fine-grained tannins. Underlying spicy, herbal notes add interest on the finish. Overall, a very lively, approachable style of Zinfandel. 2024-2029–jb
Braised pork shoulder with butternut squash and dried fruit
PERRIN & DOBBS
Perrin & Dobbs winemaker Chad Alexander focuses on Bordeaux varieties from the celebrated Central Coast vineyard area of Paso Robles: he’s developed a proprietary planting system to improve the health and balance of his vines, all in pursuit of top-quality grapes.
5160
PITCH BLACK CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PERRIN-DOBBS VINEYARDS, PASO ROBLES, 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon
The Pitch Black Cabernet Sauvignon is almost as deep and darkly coloured as its name, with equal density on the palate. This is a generous, sweet-fruited wine with layers of underlying spice and herbal hints. Fresh acidity and weighty tannins bookend the fleshy, fruity core. A bold, warming wine that will please lovers of opulent red wines. 2024-2032 –jb
Dried cranberry, red cherry, tea leaf, cedar
Red currant, dried cranberry, plum, sage
Zinfandel 14%
Cassis jam, dried blueberry, licorice, spice
Baked and dried black fruit, dried herbs
Steak au poivre with red wine reduction
“Love is a smoke made with the fume of sighs,” said Romeo. But what he meant was a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon made by Julien Fayard. Napa is never light on quality, but Fayard has enviable access to the cream of Rutherford, Oakville, and St. Helena American Viticultural Areas (AVA). Stag’s Ridge, on Atlas Peak, sits at 1,400 feet benefiting from intense sunlight and cool mountain nights and produces some of Napa’s finest Cabernet, which he turns into something rather special. He blends from across the region to make the Signature Series to create “the essence of Napa.”
BEAU VIGNE SIGNATURE SERIES
ROMEO CABERNET SAUVIGNON, NAPA VALLEY, 2021
Cabernet Sauvignon
Inky dark. Hallmark nose of crushed blueberry, vanilla, wood smoke, griottes, black cherry jam, leather and cassis. For its power this has remarkable freshness and a distinct ferrous quality making it stand out from the crowd. The palate is ridiculously satisfying, offering a stellar lineup of blueberry, blackcurrant and cassis together with iron filings, blackcurrant leaf, cedar, vanilla, wood smoke and clove. The tannins and acidity are what one might expect for a wine that is yet to come into its own–yet promises great things. 2028–2035– mp
leaf, iron filings, cassis, vanilla
Crushed blueberry, black cherry jam, wood smoke, leather
Blackcurrant
Smoked beef brisket
RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR
BRING SHAKESPEARIAN ROMANCE TO YOUR CELLAR AND TABLE
Sauvignon
Deep ruby. Powerful nose of cassis, cooked cherry, dried blueberry, toast, cedar and clove. Lashings of blackcurrant on the palate, differing from the Romeo offering, which is more of a scented, blueberry-led affair. Mega-concentrated fruit and exuberant oak flavours (cedar, cigar box) but, oh, does it carry it off well! 2028–2035– mp
Cassis, cooked cherry, toast, clove
Ripe blackcurrant, eucalyptus, cedar, cigar box
Grilled sirloin with shiitake mushrooms and brandy
CANADIAN CORNER
4556
MELDVILLE VIOGNIER, VQA
LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2022
Viognier $ 0 $ 0
Quite far from its Northern Rhone home, yet still pretty well-typed Viognier. Barrel fermented in largely neutral oak. Pale yellow, it opens with medium intensity aromas of honey, pear, hint of peach and a floral note. On the palate it has a fresh, medium-plus acidity, as well as extract, alcohol and body, with a soft, but a tad grippy, texture. It displays medium length, a nice fruit intensity with lemon, floral notes, popcorn, fragrant pear to a medium-plus finish. Sulphur is a little noticeable right now (tank sample) but should settle down with bottling. 2024-2026 – ir
1103
HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY
Whisky
This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw
4554
MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT
SAUVIGNON BLANC, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2022
Sauvignon Blanc $ 0 $ 0
Pale yellow in the glass. Fermentation and nine months of neutral-oak aging was just enough to give the aromatics a characteristic twist without being oaky. With high intensity, it displays quince, yellow gooseberry, camomile and wax/ lanolin notes. The palate opens with a lifted, medium-plus acidity and is dry with a medium-plus extract and body. It has a nice length on the palate and clear oily/ creamy, gooseberry and quince fruit to a medium-plus finish. 2025-2028 – ir
and
13%
Quince, yellow gooseberry, camomile, and wax/lanolin
Creamy, gooseberry and quince, [2.00]
Arugula
mesclun greens with goat cheese
Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie
Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel
Finish Allspice
Honey, pear, hint of peach and floral
Lemon, floral, popcorn, fragrant pear, [3.00]
Pad Thai with mild chili-garlic sauce
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Ambient yeast, no new oak and extended lees contact make this quite unlike most Bordeaux blends you’ve encountered, so it is best to approach it as advertised – a red blend. Stylistic choices aside, it is still clearly a quality wine. It has a deep opaque ruby appearance, the nose offering medium-intensity aromas: a balsamic element, notes of tomato leaf/tomatillo, sour black plum, chokeberry, wood spice/clove, a touch of game, bell-pepper stew and pickling spices appear with some air. On the dry palate, it shows a medium-plus acidity and a medium-plus frame: extract, superfine powdery tannins and body, a nice length and intensity with replays and echoes of the aromas – dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/beet juice, game and tomato, and a long finish. An introvert for sure, it has a poise, a breed and a persistence. 2025-2028 – ir
3678
PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE
Chardonnay
$ 0 $ 0
The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in a glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here, the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2025-2028 – lw
4220
CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 0 $ 0
The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a single-vineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundianstyle Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip, the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2025-2026 –lw
Dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/ beet juice, game and tomato
Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat
Cherry, strawberry, raspberry
Beef carpaccio with arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Balsamic, tomato leaf/tomatillo, sour black plum, chokeberry, clove, game, bell pepper stew and pickling spices
Grilled bone-in ribeye with blue cheese
Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon
Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]
Salmon cakes with lemon aioli
Everything
Bringing
REFRESHING ON ANY OCCASION
Everything but red REFRESHING ON ANY OCCASION
Introducing our Everything but Red where you can discover exceptional wine with each shipment, whether it’s white, rosé, or sparkling, all with the ease of one convenient subscription.
Introducing our Everything but Red subscription program, where you can discover exceptional wine with each shipment, whether it’s white, rosé, or sparkling, all with the ease of one convenient subscription.
In each case, you’ll discover:
In each case, you’ll discover:
6 bottles of delicious wine (surprise, it can be white, rosé, or sparkling!)
6 bottles of delicious wine (surprise, it can be white, rosé, or sparkling!)
A personalized message and tasting notes from the producer
Exclusive wine not found in the cellar offerings
A personalized message and tasting notes from the producer Exclusive wine not found in the cellar offerings
Subscribe now and receive 10 surprise cases of Opimian wines per year, expertly curated by our team!
Subscribe now and receive 10 surprise cases of Opimian wines per year, expertly curated by our team!
In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!
- Everithing but red back cover.indd 1