C300 - QC : NEW ZEALAND, AUSTRALIA & BURGUNDY

Celebrating 50 Years!

The

of

a

experience.

is almost always tasted together. With your family, friends, the winemaker, a Master of Wine, or thirty people you just met. Our Club provides all of those experiences.

Our 300th Cellar Offering is no different. Many, many new wines and spirits join the Member favourites. The availability of mixed cases continues to expand - 14 this Cellar! Smaller

magnum formats are also within these pages—all in response to your preferences and feedback.

all

our treasured partner, Geoff Hardy. So strong is our

created a unique blend to celebrate our 50th for both the

the remarkable wine for the lucky Founders Choice subscribers.

Hardy, will again provide the wines for The Masters Case. The

virtual tasting with Bec were so well received that we knew we had

do it

This is also the first Cellar whose wines were tasted and selected by two Masters of Wine. Louise Wilson MW and Michael Palij MW spent several days in our Montreal Head Office to taste and score all of the submitted samples. Only then did they compare notes to determine which wines you see here. This is an effective way to leverage the expertise that Opimian has at its fingertips. We, the Members, are the winners.

Thanks to the Glover Family, their premium vineyard, Zephyr, and new producer Te Mata, New Zealand's Original Fine Wine Estate, NZ provides more choice than last year. The weather and production challenges have not completely cooperated, but they report a positive trend. Australia impressed our MWs this year with excellent quality and value. Be sure to check out the new winery Thistledown Wines. Founded and run by two Masters of Wine, Thistledown specializes in old vine Grenache and brings home awards wherever they go.

The original wine lover's dream region, Burgundy, is back. Our Opimian trip to France earlier this year included several stops at our producers in the region. They did not disappoint. In light of the weather challenges besetting the region recently, which are impacting supply and pricing, our MWs tasted their way through Burgundy and have curated an exceptional selection for the launch of our new Cellar season.

Our 50th Anniversary Season will be celebrated in many ways. There will be Opimian trips to South America and Italy. Producers will visit with their wines for events across the country. Winemakers have already begun to create exceptional wines to mark the occasion. There’s never been a better time to be an Opimian Member.

Cheers to the joy of wine!

Michael & Greg

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

photo — The Perrins celebrate Opimian's 50th in Burgundy!

Ordering Made

MASTER PIECE

Burgundy Vintage Report

By Jacky Blisson MW

The wines of Burgundy are among the most revered on the planet. Collectors bid dizzying figures for the region’s top estates. Aficionados carefully cellar their premier and grand crus, agonizing over the perfect occasion to serve them.

The racy Chardonnay and elegant Pinot Noir wines of Burgundy have been held up as a benchmark for centuries, with winemakers around the globe attempting to emulate the style. And yet, the essence of Burgundy is impossible to pin down.

This is in part due to the region’s mosaic of vineyard terroirs, creating a patchwork of over 1200 climats (vineyard plots). The subtle differences in Burgundy soils, topography, and orientation gives distinctive flavours in grapes from vineyards as close as several metres apart.

Perhaps the most important stylistic influence on Burgundy wines, however, is the climate and annual weather patterns. Chablis and the Côte d’Or, which make up the northern and central parts of Burgundy, are typically considered to be cool climate vineyards.

Cooler regions often struggle to ripen fruit, extending the growing season and allowing for a long, slow ripening period. This gives wines with vibrant acidity, moderate alcohol, and tangy fruit flavours. Burgundy’s cool conditions also tend to produce smaller grapes with thicker skins. For reds, fermented on their skins, this results in more concentrated, flavourful wines.

In recent years, global warming has led to a greater frequency of warm vintages, bringing riper fruited, more generously proportioned wines that were once a rarity in the region. Climate change is also responsible for more extreme and erratic weather patterns like heatwaves, extended dry spells, sudden cold snaps, heavy rains, and violent hail.

Spring frosts are a growing concern in the colder areas of Burgundy. Unseasonably warm early spring weather has been pushing bud burst dates forward. When followed by a sharp drop to freezing overnight temperatures, the tender new buds can be damaged, impacting quality and reducing the season’s yield.

These wide-ranging weather conditions produce wines of a very different personality from one growing season to the next. When buying Burgundy, it is always a good idea to read up on the vintage before stocking your cellar.

JACKY BLISSON MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada. Jacky is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine.

EVERYDAY DRINKING

COUPS DE COEUR

CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES

CELLARING POTENTIAL

2017 Producers in highly frost prone areas, like the higher altitude Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, deployed preventative measures in time to avoid major losses in the spring of 2017. Otherwise, the summer was mainly sunny and dry, leading to an early harvest. 2017 is considered a classic, if lighter-bodied, year; defined by bright fruit, lively acidity, and supple tannins. The vintage is already drinking well with good medium term ageing potential.

2018 A wet winter and spring gave the vines much needed water reserves to counter the intense, arid heat of the summer. While localized hailstorms damaged vines in certain Côte de Nuits appellations including Nuits-Saint-Georges and Côte de Nuits-Villages, the overall Burgundy harvest was bountiful. Often compared to the famous heatwave vintage of 2003, the wines of 2018 are ripe, lush, and amply proportioned with just enough refreshing acidity for balance. Good mid-term ageing potential.

2019 The 2019 vintage was a season of contrasts. Extremes of cold and warm weather plagued the winter and spring, leading to minor frost damage and poor vine flowering. Temperatures

then soared in June and July, with sunny, yet milder conditions marking the end of the season. 2019 is a small, yet well regarded vintage of powerfully structured, highly concentrated, flavourful wines for long term ageing.

2020 For traditional Burgundy lovers, 2020 is the vintage of note. The growing season was warm, yet not excessively hot, with well-timed rains in August to offset the otherwise dry weather. Quality was deemed equally outstanding for both red and white wines across the region. Critics praise the freshness, elegance, depth, and textural appeal of the vintage. 2020 is a great year to invest in top wines for cellaring, but also to seek out value appellations like Bourgogne, or Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise.

2021 After such a banner year, 2021 proved a challenging vintage for Burgundy growers. Four days of punishing spring frosts led to widespread damage, notably to the earlier budding Chardonnay grapes. Relentless rains hammered the region for much of July, finally tapering off early August. The harvest was exceptionally small, yet of surprisingly good quality. The delicate, perfumed, ethereal wines of 2021 should drink very well over the short to medium term.

DOMAINE DES TERRES

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BEAUNE PREMIER

TE MATA ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT,

GORGEOUS GRENACHE, OLD VINE SMALL BATCH

RIVERLAND, MCLAREN

Meet Your Masters Of Wine

From the beginning, and for 50 years now, Opimian has relied on the expertise of a Master of Wine to ensure that only top-quality wines from around the world are offered to Members. Kenneth Christie MW started it all and then passed the mantle to Jane Masters MW in recent years.

To mark our 50th Anniversary, we are excited to begin introducing you to your new Masters of Wine. Together, they will continue to provide a curated range of exclusive wines to suit all occasions and tastes. In addition, the diversity of opinion and style will take your Member experience to the next level of enjoyment.

Meet Louise Wilson MW and Michael Palij MW, the two experts who selected all the wines in this Cellar. Together, they tasted 157 wines and spirits over three days in our Montreal Head Office in order to make the selections for our 300th Cellar.

For the first time, two literal masters of tasting were able to make their assessments of each wine and then compare their notes. The result is a stellar lineup of wines for you to try.

Michael Palij MW is a Canadian living in England. He specializes in Italian wines. The result when his first trip to Italy in 1993 sparked a passion for the country, as well as for their food and wine. Having worked closely with vignerons for years, he is regularly asked for technical advice in the winery to help blend or comment on different ferments. Over the years, Michael has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers. In this Cellar, Michael tasted and wrote about some very special Australian and Burgundian wines.

You may now be familiar with Louise Wilson MW , who joined our ranks last year as Opimian’s Senior ManagerProcurement & Category Management. Louise lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine in Canada. She has worked in a number of different fields including export, retail, hospitality and education. One of the highlights of her journey to becoming a Master of Wine in 2020 was the honour of receiving the Yalumba Scholarship and having the opportunity to visit Australia’s oldest winery. Louise brings her expertise to the wines from New Zealand and Australia in this Cellar.

Masters Case

Easy to order

curated

enjoyable

Overwhelmed by choosing wines in the Cellar?

Subscribe to The Masters Case, a mixed, six-bottle case curated by Opimian’s own Masters of Wine for Members like you.

The Masters Case wines for this Cellar come from Bec Hardy Wines, an award-winning winery in McLaren Vale, Australia. Bec Hardy is a 6thgeneration winemaker who was recognized as one of Australia’s Finest Young Business People at the ‘40 Under 40’ Business Awards 2021.

Glover Family Vineyard

MARLBOROUGH

In the 1980s, New Zealand grabbed the world’s attention with its signature Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. However, there are many other exceptional varieties and territories to explore across the country. Pinot Noir is the second most planted variety in the South Island’s Marlborough region while Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer do well here too. Chardonnay, which accounts for a tiny share of production, also thrives in this sunny maritime climate. The North Island’s Hawke’s Bay specializes in Chardonnay and red Bordeaux variety blends, while the region’s Syrah has also risen to international acclaim. As in Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are also successfully grown in Hawke’s Bay.

The Glover Family Vineyard was established in 1985 when founders Owen and Wendy decided to transition from fourth generation dairy farmers to grape growers. Today, their eldest son Ben, along with his family and siblings, oversees the business. The Glovers produce two ranges of wine grown on the Kaiapoi silt loam soil of the Dillon’s Point, a sub-region of Marlborough. Massey Dacta, an Opimian Member favorite, is named after the treasured Massey Ferguson Tractor that remains an important fixture on the farm. The Zephyr collection, new to the Opimian offer this year, is a line of premium, single-vineyard, organic wines made from the region’s top varieties.

Sauvignon

A fruit-forward Pinot Noir with a bright ruby-purple hue and aromas of cherry, strawberry and rhubarb. A hint of pepper on the nose adds a layer of complexity. The fresh red berry fruit carries over to the palate complemented by a touch of herb. With light silky tannins this wine would be delicious served slightly chilled. 2022-2024 lw

12.5%

Cherry, strawberry, rhubarb, pepper

Cherry, strawberry, cranberry, herb

Pan-seared duck with poached figs and five-spice

A classic expression of New Zealand’s flagship wine – fruity and mouth watering. The 2022 Massey Dacta Sauvignon Blanc is a medium-bodied, unoaked wine with a clean, dry finish. Enticing aromatics recalling melon, white peach, herb and white flowers progress into concentrated flavours of lime, lemon, grapefruit and gooseberry. Ready to pour with or without food. Sunshine in a glass. 2022-2025. lw

12.5%

Melon, white peach, herb, white flowers

Lime, lemon, grapefruit, gooseberry, [3.00]

Artichoke salad with herb and honey vinaigrette

photo — The Massey Ferguson 135, an essential and well loved Tractor on the vineyard - “The Massey Dacta!”

ZEPHYR RIESLING, MARLBOROUGH, ORGANIC,

NEW

ZEPHYR GEWÜRZTRAMINER, MARLBOROUGH, ORGANIC,

Gewürztraminer

The 2022 Zephyr Riesling is energetic and youthful with an elegant nose of peach, melon and citrus. The palate is decorated with notes of lemon, lime, melon and green apple. This juicy wine calls to be relished with slowroasted crispy pork belly or a goat cheese spanakopita. 20222024

Ben Glover’s 2022 Zephyr Gewürztraminer is a textbook example of this aromatic variety. A generous perfume of lychee, rose and passionfruit welcomes an initial taste. Layers of lychee, guava, melon, pear and citrus trail into a satisfying finish with a subtle hint of sweetness. If you are fond of wines such as Riesling, Viognier or Muscat, this is one to try. 2022-2024

3789

Floral, melon, peach, guava

Passionfruit, guava, melon, peach, [3.00]

Lightly grilled medley of vegetables with Green Goddess sauce

MKI ROSÉ,

ORGANIC,

As the world’s love affair with rosé continues, this pretty pink beverage is no longer confined to the summer months or holidays in Provence. This is a medium-bodied wine with a crisp, dry finish. Its graceful fragrance evokes notes of cherry, strawberry, violet and talc while the palate sings with impressions of strawberry, cherry and pink grapefruit. The wines in the Zephyr range are organic and several, including this rosé, are also vegan. 20222024

Cherry, strawberry, violet, talc

Strawberry, cherry, pink grapefruit, [2.00]

Fresh, ripe strawberries

Sauvignon Blanc’s profile can range from herbaceous and grassy to quite tropical. The 2022 Zephyr highlights the latter with scents of melon, peach, guava and flowers. The palate is rich with flavours of passionfruit, guava, melon and peach. Zesty acidity, characteristic of the variety, makes this wine ideal for food pairing. 2022-2025

3790 ZEPHYR PINOT NOIR, MARLBOROUGH, ORGANIC,

The Zephyr vineyards are bordered by the Ōpaoa River, which has deposited rich silt loam in the soil over time. The terroir is also significantly influenced by the proximity to the sea, which is only 3 kilometres away. The 2021 Zephyr Pinot Noir offers a bouquet of plum, cherry and violet. The palate is characterized by pristine red berry fruit in symmetry with fine grained tannin and lively acidity.

Plum, cherry, violet

Raspberry, strawberry, cherry

Goat cheese-stuffed dates

photo — Ben Glover with organically grown Gewurztraminer on the Family vineyard, Dillons Pint Road, Marlborough.

PRODUCER

Te MATA Estate

HAWKE’S BAY

The history of winemaking at Te MATA stretches back more than 126 years. This iconic estate is the oldest New Zealand winery still operating on its original site and the home of the nation’s oldest working Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay vineyards. With 165 hectares of vines located in the prestigious Hawke’s Bay region, Te MATA is also the first in the country to be accredited by Sustainable Winegrowing NZ. In 1974, the property was acquired by the Buck and Morris families. Today, the company is led by second generation Nick Buck, who previously served as the Director and Chairman of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers. Te MATA’s awardwinning wines are crafted by Senior Winemaker Phil Brodie.

3791 TE MATA ESTATE MERLOT CABERNET, HAWKE'S BAY, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

The 2021 Te MATA Estate Merlot Cabernet is a blend of 49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc grown on the winery’s own vineyards in the Havelock Hills, Bridge Pa Triangle, Gimblett Gravels and Dartmoor subregions of Hawke’s Bay. A classic Cabernet with a profile of mint, chocolate and blackberry. The deep core of flavour is wrapped in well-structured, plush tannins giving a seamless mouthfeel. Delightful today, with at least another ten years in the cards. 2022-2032 – lw

Mint, chocolate, blackberry

Blackberry, mint, chocolate, mocha

Grilled Portobello “burgers” with garlic butter and blackberry compote

MATA

A wine with a big personality from New Zealand’s second-largest wine region. Emerging from an opaque, ruby-purple core, the expressive bouquet is layered with aromas of dark fruit, cracked pepper and a hint of bacon. The palate unfolds with a floral essence supported by fla-vours of blackberry, black currant and plum. One year aging in French oak adds complexity and texture. 2022-2029 – lw

Plum, black currant, blackberry, cracked pepper,

Floral, blackberry,

Te MATA’s 2022 Estate Sauvignon Blanc offers an initial aroma of melon, pear and white flow-ers. As the wine opens hints of lime and herb appear. Classic Sauvignon Blanc flavours illumi-nate the palate - lime, cut grass, melon, lemon, grapefruit and pear. A polished wine with notable intensity. 2022-2025 – lw

Floral, melon, pear, lime,

Lime, cut grass, melon, lemon, grapefruit,

[1.00]

MATA ESTATE CAPE

ESTATE AWATEA

Hawke’s Bay is considered one of the best regions in the world for growing Syrah - the wines on par with those of the Northern Rhône. The fruit for the Te MATA Bullnose Syrah was har-vested from the estate’s premier Syrah vineyard – the classic Morris Cowley car serves as its namesake. The pronounced aromatics are stacked with floral, dark fruit and cured meat aro-mas. The palate is equally concentrated with flavours of dark fruit, cured meat and cracked black pepper framed by wellstructured tannin. 2022-2032

Dark

Black

Chinese-inspired braised

The addition of 9% Sauvignon Gris and 4% Semillon add complexity and interest to Te MATA’s Estate Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc. Floral and fruit aromas with highlights of apple, honeydew melon and vanilla invite the first sip. The richly textured palate brims with flavours of lime, melon, peach and vanilla before it tapers off into a long, satisfying finish. It is wines like this that justify my obsession with Sauvignon Blanc. 2022-2025 –lw

During the tasting, the 2019 Hawke's Bay Awatea Cabernets/Merlot received my highest marks from the impressive Te MATA range. I was taken with its overall elegance, depth of flavour and generous length. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Franc with a fragrance of plum, raspberry, herb and vanilla. Firm, well-integrated tannins house fla-vours of red and black berry fruit, spearmint and oak spice. Built to evolve over the next 10 years. 2022-2032 – lw

Floral, apple, honeydew melon,

Lime, melon, peach, vanilla, [1.00]

Grilled lobster tails with tamari-glazed tropical fruit

Plum, raspberry, herb,

Red and black berry fruit, spearmint, oak spice

Black Angus burger with fried onions and smoked Gouda

Crafted from hand-harvested grapes grown in Te MATA’s Woodthorpe Vineyards, the 2021 Al-ma Pinot Noir delivers an opulent bouquet of smoky black cherry, plum and rose. Bright red fruit flavours - cherry, red plum and strawberry - deck the palate while silky tannins and lively acidity provide a harmonious structure. Ready to open with the capacity to continue to develop in cellar. 2022-2029 –

The 2021 Te MATA Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir is crafted from estate fruit grown in Woodthorpe Terraces. To achieve optimal expression

symmetry,

parcel is fermented separately before blending and maturation in French oak. This wine is scented with notes of cherry, rasp-berry, grilled plum, freshly turned earth and oak spice. Bright red fruit fills the palate, which is knit together by fine, well-integrated tannins. 2022-2025 –

Cherry,

Cranberry,

Buck,

evaluating the Awatea, Te MATA's signature wine, in the underground barrel cellar.

CELLAR UP!

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

As the Canadian winter descends on us all, we are more willing to hunker down and stay in for dinner and the evening. There is no better time to reach for your favourite bottle of wine from your own collection. Be sure to have a look at the wines and spirits on this page and consider adding them to your Cellar and bar.

Carefully chosen from the many exceptional wines in this offering, they will provide a choice for almost any drinking occasion. Remember that all of the wines are exclusive to Opimian Members in Canada so when you pop the cork (or twist the cap - these are from down under after all), you are one of the lucky few to taste and share these wines.

Organizing and cataloging your wines can also be a worthwhile winter pursuit. Whether you sort them by region, colour, age or a combination of them all, being able to find them easily just adds to the joy of wine.

SPARKLING

MOILLARD-GRIVOT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BLANC BRUT MILLÉSIMÉ, AOP CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, 2020, LOT 3821, P43

An every day sparkler from France? This is the one. You won't have to think twice about opening a second bottle when the occasion dictates.

MEDIUM WHITE

ATTICUS CHARDONNAY, PREMIUM MUSEUM, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2009, LOT 3771, P27

You'll be the only one in your circle with this incredible wine. Already 13 years old, you can drink some of them now and still keep a few for another few years. The wood case makes it even more impressive.

ROSÉ

ZEPHYR MKI ROSÉ, MARLBOROUGH, ORGANIC, 2022, LOT 3789, P13

The star of rosé continues to rise as wine lovers around the world drink more and more of it. This organic, vegan version from Glover is drinkable throughout the year with its fruit on the palate and crisp, dry finish.

MEDIUM RED

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND NUITSSAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU LES SAINTSGEORGES, AOP, 2020, LOT 3834,

A well-made Pinot Noir is a must in every cellar. Why not have the best? To quote our Master of Wine, Michael Palij, MW, "If you must drink it now, it delivers, but also holds much promise for the cellar."

FOR YOUR BAR

GRAND MONTAND BRANDY CASE, LOT 3844, P56

If you ask your friends after dinner if they would like a snifter of brandy, you may be surprised at how many take you up on it. Once they've tasted these, they'll be saying yes every time. Complex both on the nose and the palate, you'll be drawn to them as well.

Geoff Hardy

KUITPO

Geoff Hardy, fifth-generation vigneron of the internationally acclaimed Hardy family, has brought Opimian Members delicious Australian wine for more than 20 years. Geoff and award-winning winemaker Shane Harris produce “Wines by Geoff Hardy,” which includes several ranges with something for everyone. The grapes destined for the single estate “K1 by Geoff Hardy” wines are grown in the Kuitpo region of Adelaide Hills. Geoff was the first to recognize the potential for the region to produce exceptional quality fruit when he planted his vineyard in 1986. Almost two decades later, Geoff established “Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy,” which celebrates the long-standing family value of innovation. The wines, featuring several of Australia’s emerging varieties, including Verdelho and a Montepulciano, are made from sustainably farmed grapes grown on South Australia’s Limestone Coast. Hardy’s GMH line was created exclusively for Opimian in Canada. It features classic wines that reflect the heart of winemaking in South Australia.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — Fiona Hardy, Geoff Hardy and Duke.

A classic Cabernet Sauvignon with an expressive bouquet of plum, violet and black currant. The full body is concentrated with flavours of blackberry, black currant and plum. Maturation on French oak adds complexity with an element of vanilla and oak spice. A well-structured wine with refreshing acidity and approachable tannins. Ready to enjoy! 2022-2024

The opaque, ruby-purple hue of the 2021 GMH Shiraz

way to a floral and fruity nose. The concentrated palate

with flavours of ripe blackberry, black cherry and plum. An ideal wine to have on hand for an impromptu family BBQ. Pair with garlic-braised short ribs. 2022-2024

Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot

An Opimian Member favourite made from classic Bordeaux grapes. Petit Verdot provides the scent of violets, Cabernet Sauvignon brings plush tannin as well as black fruit and mint flavours, Malbec brings structure and body to the blend along with its signature purple hue, while both Malbec and Merlot add complexity with notes of plum and red fruit. Winemaker Shane Harris ties all these elements together through maturation in French oak barrels. 2022-2024

Mocha, violet,

Red

black fruit, mocha,

9%

K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018

Shiraz

2018 started out cool, but warm summer temperatures soon arrived. Except for a cooler March, warm weather continued through harvest, allowing for optimal flavour and colour development. At the time of tasting, the 2018 was at the head of the class – simultaneously driven and poised. A hint of cured meat complements the plum and violet of the bouquet, reflecting the start of this wine’s evolution. The palate remains youthfullayered with elegant dark fruit. 2022-2028 lw

Dry and mild conditions bookended a warm summer in 2019, allowing the smaller than average crop ample time to develop complexity prior to harvest. In this vintage, blackberry, plum and black currant aromas dress both the nose and palate. Eighteen months elevation in 30% new French oak adds complexity with aromas of vanilla and a note of brown sugar. 2022-2025 lw

2020 brought fires that devastated many vineyards on the east coast of the country and even as close as the northern Adelaide Hills. Thankfully, Geoff Hardy’s beloved K1 vineyards were spared. The vintage that saw warm and dry conditions through to harvest produced a small but mighty crop. This 2020 K1 Shiraz is an expressive wine with a pronounced bouquet of sweet back fruits and floral perfume. The palate is chock-a-block with flavours that echo the nose. 2022-2026 lw

Shiraz

K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019

Shiraz

K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2020

Hastwell & Lightfoot

MCLAREN VALE

3800 HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT 38 DAYS SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MCLAREN VALE, 2016

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

An extended skin maceration of 38 days results in a wine with opaque ruby hue, supple tannin structure and a concentrated depth of flavour. This 2016 Shiraz/Cabernet blend remains full of life with an engaging bouquet of grilled plum, blackberry, violet and oak spice. The concentrated black fruit of the palate is highlighted with a nuance of mint and vanilla. Ready to savour with rich meat dishes such as beef and pork pie. 2022-2024 lw

AUSTRALIA

Grilled plum, blackberry, violet, oak spice

Blackberry, mint, vanilla

and pork pie

This charming boutique winery was established in 1988 by Mark and Wendy Hastwell along with Martin and Jill Lightfoot. Today, the winery is overseen by the second generation: James Hastwell - Winemaker and Kishan Sidhu - General Manager. They combine the family’s 30 plus years of knowledge and experience with their commitment to innovation to produce award-winning wine from their 16 hectares of vineyards in McLaren Vale.

LOWER PRICE

3799 FAT'N SKINNY PICKER'S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Barbera

The 2021 Fat'n Skinny Picker's Choice was made from the best bunches selected from the Sands vineyard in this outstanding vintage. A touch of Barbera (5-10%) complements the Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) / Shiraz (10-15%) blend, giving the wine a little extra zing from the grape’s natural acidity. The nose is generous, packed with aromas of blackberry, plum, black currant, mint and a hint of baking spice. This ripe black fruit carries forward to the palate with flavours of blackberry, black cherry and plum. 2022-2024

Blackberry, plum, black currant, mint, baking spice

Blackberry, black cherry, plum

Venison Marsala

3802

HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT SANDS OF TIME SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE,

Shiraz

Hastwell and Lightfoot’s Museum Release, the 2017 Sands of Time Shiraz, was my top scoring wine from their portfolio during the tasting. With positive evolution from maturation in bottle, the bouquet offers plum, leather and mocha scents. The complex palate follows suit with an additional note of cured meat. Wellintegrated tannins support the fruit, providing this wine with the structure and balance to continue to develop over the next 8 years. 2022-2030 lw

3801

HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MCLAREN VALE,

Cabernet Sauvignon,

Plum, leather, mocha

Plum, leather, mocha, cured meat

Ox-cheek chili

The addition of 10% Cabernet Franc to the 2019 Hastwell & Lightfoot Cabernet Sauvignon adds interest and complexity to the wine. An appealing sprinkle of black pepper and herb notes lifts the vivid black currant and plum aromas. Polished tannins balance the wine’s opulent black fruit core. Ready to enjoy with a long life ahead. 2022-2032 lw

13.5%

Black currant, plum, black pepper, herb

Blackberry, blueberry, plum, black currant

Armenian quinoa bowl with tahini

photo — Kishan Sidhu, General Manager, and Mark Hastwell, co-founder of Hastwell & Lightfoot.

Chapman Grove

MARGARET RIVER

Margaret River is about 4000 km from Perth to Sydney - not far off what it is from Niagara to Okanagan! In Europe, 4000 km would take one from London to Beirut; imagine the holy host of wine-growing regions and climates through which one would pass on that journey! There is an "otherness’”to Margaret River and to Perth, an anvil-shaped peninsula on the Western Australia coast where the maritime climate gifts its wines a distinctly European flavour. This is unquestionably the source of Australia’s most refined Cabernet, sprightly Rieslings, chiselled Shiraz and a range of whites with a distinctly old-world mien. Gneiss and granite are key soil types.

Chapman Grove is a James Halliday 5 red star winery. That puts it in the same league as Penfolds, Henschke, Rockford, Yalumba, Petaluma, Jim Barry and other Aussie greats. For Ron Fraser, the proprietor of Chapman Grove (part of Atticus Wines), receiving Halliday’s highest accolade was a moment for jubilant celebration but also one for quiet reflection on more than a quarter century of exceptionally hard work. In 1997, Ron took his life savings and a leap into the unknown by acquiring the land that would eventually become Atticus Wines. We're very glad he did!

photo — The Margaret River's climate gifts its wines with a European flavour.

CHAPMAN

Superbly complex! Mature notes of dried fruit – peach, apricot and melon – backed by a mouth-watering array of baking spices such as cinnamon, ginger and vanilla. Refreshingly well integrated, the oak sits alongside age-worthy rancio flavours. This is mightily impressive for a 13-year-old Aussie Chardonnay. Drink Now mp

Youthful, joyful notes of cassis, blackcurrant, black cherry, blueberry and dark plum. There are pleasant leafy notes, too, on the palate – a nod to provenance. The morish finish is backed by a swirl of dark chocolate, some cherry and black pepper. Decant this an hour before serving and let it loose on a leg of lamb. 2024-2028 mp

12.5%

Cassis, blackcurrant, blueberry, leather Blackcurrant, blackcurrant leaf, all spice, dark chocolate

Roasted leg of lamb with blackberryhoney glaze

CHAPMAN GROVE RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET

13.5%

Dried peach, apricot, melon, cinnamon

Dried peach, apricot, ginger, vanilla, [1.20]

Pan-seared cod with peach-mango salsa

This wine is all about texture and structure, a world away from the more common, cats'pee-gooseberry-leaf-asparagus younger styles. Oak aging has added unexpected layers to the tropical fruit core, while the finish is marked by a butterscotch note that is the descendant of lees aging. Fully mature Sauvignon Blanc for the drinker looking for something off the beaten track. 2022-2024 mp

13%

Guava, passion fruit, nettles, lime

Guava, banana, forest floor, butterscotch, [1.20]

Pan-seared sea scallops with yuzu butter

ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2005

Cabernet Sauvignon

Another fully mature wine, with notes of plum, blackberry, cedar, pencil shavings, menthol, cassis, liquorice, cooked plum, tobacco and forest floor. At almost 20 years of age, this is still very much alive, showing a developed palate of forest floor, tobacco, prune, cooked plum, damson and cassis. The tannins are beautifully melded, and the acidity sits well aft of the fruit. Drink Now mp

13.5%

Blackberry, plum, pencil shavings, menthol

Damson, cassis, prune, cedar

Grilled ribeye with blackberry coulis

MIXED CASE

ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2007

Cabernet Sauvignon

This shows a different side of Margaret River – capsicum, bell pepper, forest floor, wet leaves, blackcurrant leaf, eucalyptus and plum. The tannins are well integrated and the structural components align with the precise, cool climate flavours. This is fully mature, and possibly dipping into “past its best” but it's interesting to see an Australian coastal Cabernet's retirement party. Drink Now mp

13%

Blackcurrant leaf, capsicum, eucalyptus, wet leaves

Cassis, cooked plum, cedar, pencil shavings

Pasta puttanesca with harissa and balsamic

ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2009

Cabernet Sauvignon

Terrific nose of blackcurrant, black cherry, kirsch, grilled almond, cedar, cigar box, pencil shavings, ink, leather and mushroom. On the palate, the fully ripe, integrated tannins provide the backdrop to ripe black fruit, mineral oil, leather, charred wood, smoke, charcoal and cedar. The acidity is still there, providing an extra level of focus, and the finish lingers and plays on. Utterly delicious current drinking. Drink Now mp

13%

Blackcurrant, kirsch, grilled almond, cigar box

Blackcurrant, leather, charcoal, mushroom

Centre-cut beef tenderloin with chermoula sauce

TASTING

a

the

Tipsy

with notes of

by artist

of Bec’s

[0.30]

Bec Hardy Wines

MCLAREN VALE

Bec Hardy, daughter of longtime Opimian partner Geoff Hardy, carries forward the family tradition as sixth-generation producer. In 2021, Bec was named “Top 40 under 40,” and her winery was awarded “Regional Export Company of the Year.” Her approach combines the knowledge and experience that the Hardys gained during the past 170 years with innovation and a commitment to sustainability. Bec Hardy Wines is located in McLaren Vale on the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia. While here guests can visit The Kitchen restaurant to experience locally sourced seasonal fair paired with Bec’s delicious wines.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — Bec, Richard and their daughter Matilda at the Tipsy Hill vineyard.

Mourvèdre, one of three key grapes in Southern Rhône’s GSM blends, is transformed into a fun and friendly rosé in Bec Hardy’s hands. Delicate plum and floral aromas transition into dark fruit flavours before subsiding into a juicy strawberry finish. A light-bodied wine with bright acidity and a dry finish. 2022-2024 lw

In the last few years, bubble has transitioned from being considered strictly a special occasion wine to an everyday option. This is particularly true of sparkling wines at approachable price points such as Bec Hardy’s offer. Made from a blend of Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Colombard, Chardonnay and Verdelho, this animated sparkler is reminiscent of Honeycrisp apple, pear and citrus. A kiss of sweetness on the finish offsets the mouth-watering acidity. 2022-2024

Honeycrisp apple, pear, citrus

Honeycrisp apple, pear, citrus, [15.40]

Niçoise salad

BEC HARDY

Plum, floral

Blackberry, plum, strawberry, [2.60]

Bec Hardy’s Village Green Shiraz’s namesake is the local cricket pitch, recalling Bec’s childhood memories of watching the sport with family and friends. The bottle is adorned with another of Bec’s gorgeous labels, this one featuring a painting by English artist Terry Harrison. This is a full-bodied wine with a rich bouquet of blackberry, plum and black currant. Generosity carries through to the palate with black pepper and spearmint highlights accompanying the succulent blackberry and black currant flavours. 2022-2024

Blackberry, plum, black currant

Blackberry, black currant, black pepper, spearmint

Pork tenderloin with black

NEW PRODUCER Thistledown Wines

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA

Two Masters of Wine, plus a winemaker with a CV that references Dujac and Grosset, make for a pretty compelling team. Giles Cooke MW, Fergal Tynan MW, and Peter Leske are the stars of this Australian winery championing South Australia’s Grenache. Their favourite haunts, Blewitt Springs and Clarendon in McLaren Vale, have been selected based on highly detailed research. The results are nothing short of miraculous. If Australia is forever associated with lumpen reds and claggy whites, then these wines are set to upset many an apple cart. These are textured, complex, perfumed and hedonistic reds. The ancient soils and range of aspects create almost perfect conditions for this sometimes-bolshy grape, resulting in wines with great purity and the all-so-important balance of alcohol. Giles and Fergal actually met in a bar the night before they began their first MW course back in 1998. Good job they passed!

This prestigious geographical indication south of Adelaide is also one of Australia’s oldest wine regions. John Reynell and Thomas Hardy planted grape vines here in 1838, setting the wheels turning on what was to become the dominant source of local income. Despite its long history, the Vale has struggled to find its métier, with everything from Chardonnay to Touriga Nacional grown in a relatively small area. The Mediterraneans have won of late, and it is now recognised for its world-class Grenache, although the Shiraz remains comfortingly robust, and recent forays into lesser-known Italian and Portuguese are most encouraging.

photo — Trott Vineyard, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, South Australia - Home of The Vagabond Grenache.

hedonistic

jolly

the world's

THE VAGABOND OLD VINE GRENACHE, BLEWITT SPRINGS, MCLAREN VALE,

in this add an

Grenache's succulent, fleshy engine

a smattering of oak that adds unobtrusive spiciness. What really stands out, though, is the signature Blewitt

acidity, bringing real focus and vivacity

of this are just

MIXED CASE

Settled by Silesian émigrés in the mid-19th century, the Barossa is unquestionably one of the world’s greatest viticultural microclimates. The soils are the secret: they are both meagre (deep, alluvial, granitic sands) and unspeakably ancient (up to 800 million years old). The climate is hot and suits Mediterranean varietals, including Shiraz and Grenache, which acquire remarkable depth of flavour (and potential alcohol) in the baking summer heat. In all, it comprises 13,000 hectares of vineyard with a great diversity of growing conditions. There are two significant geographical indications: Barossa Valley, covering the warm, low-lying western side, and the relatively compact Eden Valley, which covers higher, cooler ground to the east. Neither is to be confused with the much larger “Barossa.”

If one is into labels then this is the jackpot: it was voted ‘best digital label in the world 2020’. One wouldn’t want to judge a wine (or anything) by its cover, but in this instance, one might do exactly that. Both wines are highly energetic examples of Shiraz, with fruit sourced largely from the legendary Joel Mattschoss' Eden Valley vineyard. What's in a year? More than one might think – 2020 was the last of the string of hot, dry vintages where the drought depressed yields and sent growers scrambling for water. Concentration was good but many wines wandered into over-ripeness. 2021 was a return to 'normal' conditions with decent rainfall resulting in arguably less concentration but better balance. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

THISTLEDOWN THE QUICKENING SHIRAZ, BAROSSA, 2020

Shiraz

Cassis, blackberry and black pepper are accompanied by vanilla, liquorice and leather on the nose. The black fruit-soaked palate hits the right note, all silky and ripe, supported by vanilla, clove, ink and pencil shavings. The finish is everything you would expect and more – a lively interplay of fruit and oak that bounces along the tongue. 2024-2030 mp

14.5%

Cassis, blackberry, black pepper, hint of vanilla

Blackberry, bramble, clove, ink

Roast beef with three-peppercorn sauce

THISTLEDOWN THE QUICKENING SHIRAZ, BAROSSA, 2021

Shiraz

The 2021 vintage lives up to the high expectations set by a welcome return to normal rainfalls in South Australia. There is slightly more accentuation to the ripe cassis and blackberry and less vanilla and clove. It is easy to pick out the individual flavours, and the strength of the fruit marks this out as a wine that is going to reap rewards when given cellar time. 2025 - 2032 mp

14.5%

Cassis, blackberry, bramble, hint of clove

Cassis, ripe blackberry, hint of vanilla and clove

Smoked brisket with maple-paprika barbecue sauce

MIXED CASE

Is this the eponymous Silken Beastie? It certainly tastes that way - seamless and silky tannins allied to full-throttle fruit from Ebenezer, Kalimna and Koonunga regions of northwest Barossa. 2018 v 2020? At this stage, the smart money is on the 2020 ultimately walking away with the victory but the 2018 is just that bit more enjoyable now. Decisions, decisions!

SILKEN BEASTIE SHIRAZ, BAROSSA VALLEY, 2018

Shiraz

This is heavenly. A nose of cassis, baking spice, vanilla, leather, tar, sweaty saddles, iodine, white pepper, mint, bay and blueberry jam. Stay with it; this is exceptionally complete, boasting a broad palate of black fruit, chocolatey oak influence, then tertiary notes of mushroom, wet leaves, coffee and nutmeg. Drinking well now and completely gorgeous. 2022-2026 mp

3816

SILKEN BEASTIE SHIRAZ, BAROSSA

14.5%

Cassis, baking spice, leather, mint

Blueberry, blueberry jam, dark chocolate, mushroom, nutmeg

Five-year-old Cheddar

SILKEN BEASTIE SHIRAZ, BAROSSA VALLEY, 2020

Shiraz

Still very young, this may ultimately overtake the 2018. A backward nose of complex black fruit including pepper, blackberry, cassis, cherry and plum, alongside barrel notes of vanilla, clove, anise and smoke. The promise of tightly wound concentrated fruit is incredible. So much going on with massive length – and copious amounts of tannin –that this will continue to improve for many, many years. 2025-2035 mp

14.5%

Blackberry, cassis, black cherry, anise

Blackberry, cassis, vanilla, smoke

Rosemary and garlic roast leg of lamb

photo — Giles Cooke, Master of Wine and Winemaker in the stunning Smart Vineyard, Clarendon, McLaren Vale.

Australia's Hidden Gems

By Philip Reedman, MW

Adelaideans, of whom I’m lucky to be one, are spoilt for choice with wine regions. We sit in the centre of South Australia’s swathe of vineyards. An hour to the north: The Barossa. Half an hour east are The Adelaide Hills, while McLaren Vale sits 45 minutes to the south. On the other side of the country, we share one thing with Western Australia’s Perth residents: our best Cabernet Sauvignon region is three hours away. In Adelaide’s case, it the Limestone Coast, for Western Australians it is the Margaret River. In both cases, the wine easily justifies the drive.

Margaret River is a new wine region, first planted in 1967. A lupin scientist identified the region as being suitable for fine wine production. How right Dr. Gladstones was. Freedraining soils, cooling by the Indian Ocean and some visionary winemakers conspire to make great wines. Chardonnays are thrilling while red Bordeaux blends, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, are world-class. A la Pessac, Margaret River’s winemakers blend their Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon, often maturing them in barrique for added texture and longevity.

Back in South Australia, the Limestone Coast wine region has a 130-year-long history. John Riddoch first planted vines in Coonawarra in 1891. Coonawarra is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon grown on Terra Rossa soil. Terra Rossa is limestone bedrock topped by sand; a viticultural paradise. Padthaway to the north shares this soil, as does Wrattonbully. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc do well across the Limestone Coast, but Padthaway is sufficiently cool for some refined Chardonnay; both still and sparkling. Climate change-aware growers are having success with Tempranillo. Phylloxera’s absence from South Australia means that the Barossa has vines older

than almost anywhere else on earth. Settled by Europeans in 1842, we still harvest and celebrate vines planted in 1843. Shiraz dominates the Barossa but not to the exclusion of Grenache, Mourvedre and, in the cool Eden Valley area, Riesling and Chardonnay.

McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills regions abut one another. “The Hills”, as they’re known, have vineyards close to the 700-meter contour. Sauvignon Blanc loves this cool terroir as increasingly does the newly arrived Gruner Veltliner; bright and refreshing, food-friendly styles. Pinot Noir is King of the reds here but Shiraz, often labelled “Syrah” is increasingly exciting.

Sweeping south down the foothills to Gulf St Vincent is the McLaren Vale region. Reds dominate with elegant, precise, Grenache grown on the deep sands treasured by those lucky vignerons who grow it. Shiraz is full and rich. McLaren Vale’s Italian heritage has encouraged plantings of Italian varieties, including the inkily juicy and vibrant Montepulciano and the rare, but excitingly focused, Teroldego.

It's not just the dramatically different wine regions which spoil us in Adelaide; the sheer variety and quality of the wines they offer makes any winery outing a voyage of discovery.

Philip Reedman MW lives in Adelaide, South Australia. Philip is an educator for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust and is involved in education through the Institute of Masters of Wine. He works as a consultant to a number of wineries and vineyards in South Australia.

Grenache’s signature red

with a dash of white pepper. It’s a recipe that looks to the Northern Rhône and helps balance the weight of fruit on the palate. The cool climate is showing its colours with brisk acidity, and there’s a little more tannic grip than one would expect – but this just serves to remind us that Grenache is capable of more than just simple, jammy reds.

Another card in the Royal Flush that

a classic Aussie pair of Shiraz/

Continuing a

approach, this is hand-picked,

fermented, unrefined and unfiltered.

THISTLEDOWN DISTANT LIGHT SHIRAZ GRENACHE, BAROSSA, MCLAREN VALE, 2018

Grenache, Shiraz

THISTLEDOWN DISTANT LIGHT SHIRAZ GRENACHE, BAROSSA, MCLAREN VALE, 2020

Shiraz, Grenache

of the fruit –

young, old,

anything but simple, and it has paid off handsomely with a complex and supremely elegant

Two vintages,

too many choices!

MIXED CASE

Barrel work and a dense core of black fruit bring blackberry, dried cherry, tinned strawberries, black pepper, liquorice, tar, charcoal, cedar, kirsch and sage to this Aussie BBQ. It’s an instant hit. This is a fullon, turbo-charged version of McLaren Vale, designed to make an impression – and it does. 2022-2025 mp

14.5%

Compelling and a welcome change from the usual Aussie blockbuster with aromas of blackberry, black pepper, liquorice, kirsch, orange peel and bay leaf. The palate accommodates ripe black fruit, perfectly balanced tannins, firm acidity, layers of sweet spice, liquorice, an herbal twist and prudent use of oak. 2022-2026 mp

14.5%

Blackberry, dried cherry, tinned strawberries, black pepper

Blackberry, kirsch, charcoal, sage

Char-grilled medley of vegetables with chermoula

Blackberry, black pepper, orange peel, bay leaf

Ripe bramble, sweet spice, liquorice, peels

Crispy quail with hoisin and ginger sauce

CLASSIC AUSSIE PAIR OF SHIRAZ & GRENACHE

MIXED CASE

This is a mustbuy mixed case. These two expressions of Shiraz - one from Barossa and one from Eden - epitomize the exceptional potential of this variety from two unique terroirs and in exceptionally skilled hands. The meticulous winemaking has captured every gorgeous nuance. Slap a porterhouse on the barbie, add some roast vegetables, call your best friend, and watch the sun set while debating which one you admire most.

THISTLEDOWN BACHELOR'S BLOCK SHIRAZ EBENEZER BAROSSA VALLEY, 2021

Shiraz

Stains the glass like a true Barossa Shiraz. A nose of cassis, iodine, ink, pencil shavings, cooked plum, cold ash, black cherry and coconut. Ultra full-bodied on the palate, this is a massive wine with huge array of flavours and concentration, speaking of ancient vines and miniscule yields. The fruit encompasses a spectrum from blackberry to floral to herbaceous, while the acidity and tannins are up to the job of supporting this youthful and impenetrable wine. 2030-2040 mp

14%

Cassis, iodine, cold ash, coconut

Blackberry, blackberry leaf, plum blossom, pencil shavings

Cinnamon-anise slow-cooked lamb shoulder with mashed maple-butter squash

THISTLEDOWN WHERE EAGLES DARE SHIRAZ MATTSCHOSS VINEYARD EDEN VALLEY, BAROSSA, 2021

Shiraz

Lovely and lifted on the nose, with a cool, menthol note alongside plum, black cherry, kirsch and vanilla. The palate speaks of its provenance, revealing some attractive minty notes overlaid with blackberry and cassis. This is a versatile Shiraz from a cool site that, although more restrained than some Thistledown juggernauts, still packs a decent punch. 2030-2040 mp

14%

Plum, black cherry, menthol, vanilla

Blackberry, cassis, mint, vanilla

Grilled andouille sausage

BURGUNDY

The historic heartland of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Burgundy is as revered for its nuanced, age-worthy wines today as it was when Charlemagne slaked his thirst on Chardonnay from its limestone flanks more than a 1000 years ago.

Chablis, on the river Serein, is the most northerly of the major appellations. It boasts flinty, wet stone-flavoured Chardonnay of enviable concentration rarely adorned with oak maturation.

The Côte-d’Or, a chalky/clay escarpment connecting Dijon with Santenay some 60 km south, is the celebrated epicentre of Burgundy. It can be divided into two parts – the northern Côte de Nuits, where many of the

famous red wine appellations lie, and the southern Côte de Beaune, where white wine takes precedent. The escarpment levels off south of Santenay, just as the chalk (and its finesse) becomes more intermittent. This gives rise to a different appellation, the Côte Chalonnaise: here the wines are rounder and more immediate, and the price tags more charmant. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir continue to dominate, while a new grape variety, Aligoté, makes a guest appearance in the town of Bouzeron.

Tournus provides a rough marker for the last big gear change, the Mâconnais. Pinot Noir takes a back seat to the more humdrum Gamay, but Chardonnay continues to impress at the villages level, albeit in slightly more worka-day overalls.

Effortlessly fresh and wispy, this is the everyday sparkler that every summer day deserves. Notes of peach, apricot, both red and green apples, cantaloupe melon and honeysuckle arrive in quick succession whilst the fine bead and attractive mouthfeel is rounded off with honeysuckle and acacia. No noticeable autolysis here, and it really wouldn't bring anything to this rather joyous party. 2022-2026

MOILLARD-GRIVOT

Moillard-Grivot, based in NuitsSaint-Georges, has an illustrious 170-year history. The company manages to produce appellation wines from Chablis through to Santenay – testament to a canny acquisition strategy through the generations. During a financial crisis in the 1930s, it was given the moniker ‘bank of Burgundy’, such was its ability to stay in the black. Maison François Martenot acquired Moillard-Grivot in 2016, safeguarding its status as a local institution. Over a broad selection of terroirs, the house style remains distinctly “Nuits” – powerful wines with bags of aging potential. Rather interestingly, œnologue Baptiste Corrot studied at the University of Bordeaux, which may account for his considerable skill in managing Pinot's occasionally rustic tannins.

FIND MOILLARDGRIVOT'S PREMIUM PINOT NOIR ON P. 58!

DOMAINE DESERTAUXFERRAND

A family affair since 1899, Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand is run by siblings Christine, Vincent and Vincent’s wife, Geneviève. Rather unusually in an area awash with Chardonnay, they continue a legacy, begun by their parents, of growing Pinot Blanc; the variety accounts for 30% of their Villages white. Not to be pigeonholed, they also produce fine red wine and the lieu-dit, Les Perrières, shows off the best of the appellation’s Pinot Noir. There is no doubting their dedication to the Villages' cause and the superb value that can still be found off the beaten track.

Ripe peach, apricot, nectarine and guava create the backdrop to a decent lick of oak adding vanilla, clove and cinnamon. The Pinot Blanc adds some intrigue and there is impressive complexity at this level. Enjoy it now with river fish, morilles, poultry and anything in a cream sauce.

Ripe

Ripe

clove,

[0.00]

photo — Christine Désertaux-Ferrand, and her brother

with

son Bastien and wife

DOMAINE

As honest as the day is long, this has the classic “luncheon” Pinot nose of red plum

cherry. The palate shows more of the same fine red fruit with cooked rhubarb adding interest and a delicate smoky character. This is a structured, classic Pinot that would benefit from a decant just prior to drinking. 2023-2026

This

cut from much the same cloth as the Bourgogne Blanc with white peach and citrus enveloped by notes of clove, vanilla and cedar. This pays homage to Meursault with an impressive oak structure. Cut wood very much to the foreground, with fine, elegant fruit and floral notes on the finish. 2023-2028

Clove,

Cedar,

Fettuccine

blossom, [0.80]

a light basil pesto

photo

Domaine Désertaux

is

DOMAINE

DOMAINE

Red fruit including cherry, plum and strawberry are jostled by clove on the nose. On the palate, the oak really takes command, with cedar, cut wood and liquorice the dominant flavours. There is a hint of cherry yogurt and cooked strawberry peeking through, but this is one for those who like a generous dollop of oak in their reds.

Red

Cedar, cut

Pan-seared

liquorice,

Pommard is seldom as attractive and as forward as this. The oak is happy to take a back seat, which is fortunate as the acidic/ tannic balance is just right without it. It lives up to the appellation’s reputation for richly aromatic Pinot with rhubarb, stewed plum, beetroot, redcurrant, Bing cherries, liquorice and cinnamon. A genuinely fine example of this often overrated AOP. 2023-2030

Rhubarb, redcurrant, beetroot,

Rhubarb, Bing cherries, stewed plum, liquorice

Grilled salmon burger with citrus aioli on a brioche bun

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES

CRU LES SAINTS-GEORGES,

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND

LES CHABOEUFS,

A generous nose of mulberry, blackberry and dark plum is deftly accompanied by vegetal notes of forest floor and earth.

the palate, there is further complexity from barrel maturation including spice, sandalwood and liquorice. The interplay of fruit, acidity and tannins is clever, and this has all the credentials required to age well.

- 2035

Mulberry, blackberry, earth,

Mulberry, blackberry, spices,

The commune of Nuits not only gives its name to the northern côte but also sets the standard for classic, age-worthy Pinot. The nose shares the ripe black fruits with Les Chaboeufs –mulberry, blackberry and dark plum – but also earthy notes of forest floor, truffle and wet leaves. On the palate, the savoury character entwines with the fine but distinctly firm tannins. This is superbly crafted and hugely drinkable now but is playing a long game. If you must drink it now, it delivers, but also holds much promise for the cellar.

Mulberry, blackberry, truffle, wet

Blackberry, ripe dark plum, truffle,

cutlets with port wine and balsamic

Mickaël Marillier still makes it like his grandfather did: cue traditional, old-school Burgundy, high in acidity and bursting with unabashed primary red fruit flavours. Cherry, plum, rhubarb and cranberry on offer, this needs no more than a generous portion of Coq au Vin. If you fancy an ultra-traditional Pinot from southern Burgundy then go long on this eminently affordable example. 2023-2026

Red cherry, plum, rhubarb, cranberry

Red cherry, rhubarb, cranberry, hint

DOMAINE THÉVENOTLEBRUN

Oh, the unspeakable appeal of a Burgundian monopole! A 14th century abbey guards this seven-hectare plot of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at Marey les Fussey, shrewdly replanted by Maurice Thevenot in the ‘60s. There is, in fact, a 500-year tradition of viticulture at Le Clos du Vignon, the impressive heart of the Thevenot estate. It’s an excellent reminder that the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits can really measure up to its rivals further down the slopes. These wines offer fabulous value.

THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES

NUITS, BLANC, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP,

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES

NUITS, ROUGE, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP,

an attractive

honeysuckle and apricot.

of

the

tinned peaches, lime cordial, banana

and wet stones prevail. The use of new oak is rather adroit: barrel maturation

sensitively against a ripe fruit profile

the acidity holding out the promise of further rewards from short-term cellaring.

bold, with baked fruit, black cherry, smoky flavours, charcuterie and forest floor.

remaining harmonious, this is fruit-driven, textured Pinot of the

quality.

fine tannins do much to add a little grace,

it up a

a buoyant acidity

DOMAINE BONNARDOT

Danièle Bonnardot is the third generation of a winemaking family based at Villers-la-Faye in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. She took over the reins of the estate from her father, Jean, in 2008 and has pressed resolutely ahead by, well, keeping things pretty much the same. Although they have holdings in the Côte, the value lies in her fine Hautes-Côtes which are often made from old vines and are inevitably just what decent Burgundy ought to be: highly aromatic, adequately structured and delicious with food.

Refined and surprisingly gorgeous already, this bad boy of Beaune has plenty of power with blackberry jam, cooked plum, prune, liquorice and forest floor. Sourced from a parcel of vines planted in 1966, this is all about power, complexity and precocious charm. Drink now and enjoy a classic expression of Beaune. 2022-2026

Blackberry jam, cooked plum, liquorice, forest floor

Blackberry jam, cooked plum, confit prune, liquorice

Snack plate of figs, other dried fruit and walnuts with a pear jelly

Wow, what purity on the nose! Cassis, mulberry, redcurrant, strawberry and oaky notes of cedar and liquorice all present. Stacks going on! One has to love the effortless complexity that Burgundy so often dials up. Both poised and complex, this has red and black fruit, restrained use of oak and a long finish. What’s not to like? 2022-2026 mp

13%

Cassis, mulberry, redcurrant, liquorice

Strawberry, mulberry, beetroot, cedar

Smoked turkey

Continuing a trilogy of warm vintages,

shows ripe fruit on the nose - cooked blackberries, raspberries and plums. Its tannic palate, with a lick of liquorice, is both bold and developed. Curated from two, 50-year-old parcels of south-east exposure, it’s an affordable example of Ladoix, an AOP that rubs shoulders some much more famous names. 2024-2027 mp

13%

Cooked blackberries, raspberries, ripe plums, liquorice

Cooked blackberries, raspberry jam, liquorice, walnut

Bacon and goat cheese-stuffed mushroom caps

photo

Daniele Bonnardot's wines are tapped by

preserve the wine.

DOMAINE MAURICE ECARD

Savigny has long been a source of reliable Burgundy, albeit oft overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Chassagne-Montrachet. Dating back to 1789, Maurice Ecard is unquestionably the master of Savigny, the appellation where one finds almost all of the estate’s 15 hectares of vineyards. There is an honesty to these wines: they are not trying to be Chambertin, they are delicious, affordable Savigny, and they offer genuine value given average prices in this region.

DOMAINE MAURICE ECARD SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE, AOP SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE, 2019

Elegant, complex, and finely chiselled on the palate, with beautifully fresh acidity and plenty of concentration from this curious vintage where acidity and alcohol finally kissed and made up. The tannins are ripe but support the fruit, which encompasses a huge array of flavours including redcurrant, cherry, plum, mulberry and blackberry. Toasted oak, wet earth, liquorice and truffle make this an olfactory delight. This is a real triumph and offers unbeatable value.

- 2028

Dominique Glardon, winemaker at Domaine Maurice Ecard.

PREMIERS CRUS BY THE MASTER OF SAVIGNY

NEW

DOMAINE MAURICE ECARD SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE 1ER CRU AUX SERPENTIÈRES, AOP SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE PREMIER CRU, 2019

Pinot Noir

The first tertiary notes are making their way to the front, red apple in hand alongside forest floor, wet leaves,and truffle. This is allied to cedar, coconut, coffee but – here’s the best bit – there’s no lack of fruit to balance the wood. Ripe plum, wild strawberry and cooked raspberries make for an impressive and generously charming wine whilst the finegrained tannins are also worthy of mention. Curious vintage 2019: what will this do next? 2024-2031 mp

13.5%

Red apple, forest floor, truffle, cedar

Ripe plum, wild strawberry, cooked raspberries, coffee

Casserole of penne, mushrooms and Mozzarella

NEW

DOMAINE MAURICE ECARD SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE 1ER CRU LES NARBANTONS, AOP SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE PREMIER CRU, 2019

Pinot Noir

Red apple, candied apple and rhubarb rub shoulders with wet earth, truffle and smoke. This is more restrained than the Aux Serpentières and slightly more evolved. The palate gets a big thumbs up: commanding red fruit keeps everything on the boil, allowing developed, earthy notes just enough access. 2024-2032 mp

13.5%

Red apple, candied apple, truffle, smoke

Cherry, red plum, redcurrant, liquorice

Baked stuffed acorn squash with raisins and couscous

Another nugget in the François Martenot portfolio, this time from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise. Compared to neighbouring estates, the vines are trained closer to the ground – and it seems to work, producing concentrated, aromatic whites. Frequent battonage during maturation adds further complexity to all wines. The Premier Cru Meix Cadot, from the free-draining, sun-soaked slopes of La Montagne de la Folie, has decent aging potential so these wines offer a genuine middle ground between Village and Commune.

3827

DOMAINE ROLAND SOUNIT RULLY 1ER CRU MEIX CADOT, AOC RULLY PREMIER CRU, 2019

3826

DOMAINE ROLAND SOUNIT RULLY, AOC RULLY, 2020

This showcases Rully’s ability to deliver great value-for-money whites. Honeyed red apple and nectarine, oaky notes of vanilla and cinnamon, all tightly wrapped in a struck match blanket; the finish is poised and mineral driven. It is difficult to ask for much more at this level. 2022-2025 mp

Honeyed red apple, struck match, cinnamon, nutmeg

Honeyed red apple, nectarine, vanilla, wet stone

Creamy chicken

Opulent nose brimming with peach, tangerine and honey. The palate is supercharged with a melee of exquisite flavour: apricot, red apple, banana, cantaloupe melon, vanilla, sweet spice and cinnamon. Both length and complexity quite superb. Drink this now and enjoy its forward charms, or age for a decade. This is properly gorgeous and will reward cellaring. 2022-2025 mp

Peach, tangerine, honey, vanilla

Apricot, red apple, banana, cantaloupe melon, vanilla, sweet spice, cinnamon

Roast chicken salad with dates and pecans

GRAND MONTAND

The Grand Montand VSOP French brandy offers a pale gold hue and a lively character. The layers of aromas are reminiscent of caramel, baked apple, vanilla, baking spice and brown sugar. The palate is equally as complex with notes of orange, apricot, nutmeg, pepper and clove. The flavour persists on the palate, tapering off into a warm and spicy finish.

Caramel, baked apple, vanilla, baking

Orange, apricot, spicy, nutmeg, pepper, clove

Finish

A refined French brandy ideal for a contemplative fireside nightcap. The amber gold robe reveals a complex bouquet of brown sugar, baking spice and grilled orange peel. On the initial sip, these aromas transition to flavours of grilled orange peel, caramel, baking spice, vanilla and chocolate. The finish is long and polished, providing ample time for deep thoughts and conversation.

Brown

Grilled

Finish

in appearance, the Karavan

has a clean, steely and mineral aroma which carries through to the palate. The mouthfeel is smooth and creamy, with a focused, long mineral finish. Crafted in France, this top-shelf selection makes an excellent choice for a premium vodka martini experience.

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3846

RIVER

SOUTH EASTERN

RIVER

3810 BEC HARDY CHARDONNAY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA,

Chardonnay

A fruit-forward wine with a welcoming nose of baked apple, hay and citrus. It offers a satisfying weight on the palate with flavours of ripe apple, pineapple, melon and peach. A crowd-pleaser – with or without food. 2022-2023 lw

It’s easy to see why the Darling River Shiraz from South Eastern Australia is an Opimian Member favourite.

is packed with juicy red berry flavour wrapped in soft, approachable tannin. A perfect match for grilled cheeseburgers or hearty lamb stew. 2022-2024 lw

A medium-bodied, unoaked Chardonnay with a lemon-green hue and a perfume of floral, citrus, melon and peach. Melon, peach and citrus flavours echo the aromas and are complemented by the taste of red apple. A versatile wine that is ready to drink with or without a meal. 2022-2024 lw

Floral, citrus, melon, peach

Red apple, melon, peach, citrus, [2.50]

SINGLE VINEYARD TEMPRANILLO,

HILLS,

Tempranillo

The K1 Single Vineyard Tempranillo is another great example of Geoff Hardy’s commitment to winemaking innovation. Best known for its role as the lead grape in Rioja, Tempranillo grown in Kuitpo, Adelaide Hills delivers a wine brimming with cherry, plum and red currant. Winemaker Shane Harris has fermented and aged this wine in stainless steel to highlight its natural tannin structure. 2022-2024

plum, red currant

plum, red currant

Spinach, mushroom and San Marzano lasagna

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY MONTEPULCIANO, LIMESTONE COAST, 2021

Montepulciano

Australia’s emerging varieties, such as Montepulciano, provide an opportunity for discovery, and Geoff Hardy’s 2021 example is a great place to start exploring. The fragrant nose is reminiscent of the wines of the Douro, with aromas of violet, mint, red plum and boysenberry. The palate is packed with flavours of blackberry, black current, boysenberry, herb and spice. Ready to pour, but also capable of maturation in cellar. 2022-2031 lw

14%

Violet, mint, red plum, boysenberry

Blackberry, black current, boysenberry, herb, spice

Osso buco alla Milanese

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY TEROLDEGO, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019

The perfect wine to take to your next wine tasting. With an opaque, purple-ruby hue and ripe flavours, some might guess Malbec, however; the expressive black fruit profile and firm structure may lead others to Cabernet Sauvignon. At the same time, the wine’s sense of place – undeniably Australian – may garner thoughts of the country’s flagship variety, Shiraz. For most, if not all, tasting Teroldego will be an exciting new experience. 2022-2024 lw

14%

Plum, black currant, violet, oak spice

Blackberry, plum, black currant

A cheese tasting of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano and Manchego

MIXED CASE

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY PINOT GRIGIO, LIMESTONE COAST, 2022

Pinot Grigio

This peppy, unoaked Pinot Grigio has aromas of green apple, lemon, lime and white flowers. Crisp acidity frames flavours of apple, pear, gooseberry, lime and lemon before tapering off into a clean, dry finish. A crowd pleaser with or without food. Think patio, poolside or picnic. 2022-2023 lw

12.5%

Green apple, lime, white flowers, lemon

Apple, pear, gooseberry, lime, lemon, 3.00

Roasted vegetable antipasto

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY VERDELHO, LIMESTONE COAST, 2022

Verdhelo

Calling all white wine lovers! Geoff Hardy’s 2022 Hand Crafted Verdelho opens with a fragrance of orange blossom, key lime and pear. The palate is equally vivid with flavours of lime, flowers, pear and melon. Mouthfeel and texture are enhanced by skin contact and time on lees, while cool fermentation temperatures preserve this wine’s fruity profile. 2023-2026 lw

K1 SINGLE VINEYARD GRÜNER VELTLINER, ADELAIDE HILLS 2022

Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature variety and a sommelier favourite, also makes a thirst-quenching and engaging wine in Adelaide Hills. Floral, peach, apricot and citrus aromas grace the nose, followed by expressive melon, peach, apricot and floral notes on the palate. Consider as an alternative to Italian Pinot Grigio. 2022-2024 lw

13.5%

Orange blossom, key lime, pear

Lime, floral, pear, melon, 0.80

Honey-ginger tiger prawns with chili pepper

Floral, peach, apricot, citrus

Melon, peach, apricot, floral, 0.70

Wiener schnitzel with lemon

12.5%