C308-NB: THE UNITED STATES, PORTUGAL AND GERMANY

THE UNITED STATES, PORTUGAL AND GERMANY

FEATURING EXCLUSIVE WINES FROM BORDEAUX AND SPAIN

The Ramilo family and their collaborators raise their glass to Opimian!

Plum, raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, violet

Castelão

Plum, raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, mineral

12.5% Roasted octopus with potatoes

RAMILO SINGLE EDITION BLEND, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2021

Winemaking has remained in the Ramilo family business for four generations. It began with Manuel Francisco Ramilo who first established vineyards in 1937. As was common in Portugal in the late 20th century, the family’s second and third generations moved away from the difficulty of viticulture in the region and turned to the distribution of imported wines. It was great-grandsons Pedro and Nuno who returned to the land rebuilding the family’s estate, reviving the vineyards and rescuing unique local grape varieties from extinction. The family’s main property, Casal do Ramilo, is found in the Lizandro River valley between the towns of Sintra and Mafra. The second property, Quinta do Cameijo, is in the Colares region. In both locations, proximity to the Atlantic Ocean creates a sea-kissed freshness in the Ramilo wines. The Ramilo Family Winery joined the Opimian family of producers in 2021 and has quickly become a Member favourite. To celebrate the ninth Cellar of our golden anniversary, winemaker Nuno Ramilo has created a wine exclusively for Opimian Members to enjoy. Made from Portugal’s indigenous Castelão variety, this engaging wine offers a bouquet perfumed with plum, raspberry, strawberry, black cherry and violet notes. This pure red and black fruit is offset by an intriguing note of minerality that continues through the wine’s core and throughout its generous length. Refined tannins and fresh acidity provide seamless structure. Enjoy now and revisit over the next five years as this commemorative wine continues to evolve in the cellar. 2023-2028–lw

MEMBER BENEFITS

We are always looking for ways to make your Opimian Membership more valuable than having exclusive access to world-class, magnificent wines. Here are just a few of the benefits of Membership.

Jagged Ridge Wine Racks

Save 10% on wine racks

@ Amazon - use code Opimian10 https://tinyurl.com/JRRacks

Blue Grouse Cellars

5% off wine cabinets, cooling units, glassware & Accessoriesuse code Opim23 www.bluegrouseshop.com

Canadian Association of Retired Persons (CARP) & Zoomer MagazineComplimentary year of Membership - One year of Zoomer for $19.95 Go to https://shop.carp.ca/ CCO22MWCQ

Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF)

Stay tuned for special Membership opportunities and discounts

Le Maitre D Gourmet Food

Exclusive access & special pricing. Packages designed to compliment your Opimian wines. https://www.lemaitred.com/

International Wine & Food Society

• The IW&FS of Toronto arranges monthly events combining wine and food which include dinners and tastings; all designed to be innovative, educational, enjoyable and of high quality.

• Opimian members have special access to IWFS events

GETTING TO KNOW THE STAFF

Joel VIEIRA

Head of Finance

With an MA in Economics and expertise in business strategy, Joel Vieira brings over a decade of experience bridging finance and operations and keeping organizations financially and operationally strong. His passion for wine & spirits was fostered at an early age while working with his father in his small vineyard and has developed while serving some of the most prestigious brands in the world.

DRINKING NOW > Cabutto Tenuta La Volta Barolo DOCG, Lot 3697

UP TO THE MINUTE

REFER-A-FRIEND

Talk about a win-win. Have a friend, family member, or co-worker join Opimian and you will each get a case of wine to celebrate. Not only is the wine worth far more than the cost of the Membership, but you'll also have more people to share in the joy of wine. Just direct them to Opimian.ca/jointheclub/ , be sure they enter your Member Number when prompted and add the Promo Code Opimian50 when prompted for that too. We'll take take care of the rest.

OF NOTE TO TMC AND FOUNDERS SUBSCRIBERS

In the spirit of environmental preservation (and to minimize price increases) the formerly printed inserts with the wine descriptions will be provided electronically. They will be emailed to subscribers in advance of each case arriving at your pickup point.

OPIMIAN EVENTS

https://tinyurl.com/OpimianEvents

IN-PERSON EVENTS

Edmonton Member Event

Friday, October 13, 2023

Edmonton Country Club

More information to come

Calgary Member Event

Saturday, October 14, 2023

More information to come

We will continue to ramp up the frequency of In-Person events throughout the country in the coming months.

VIRTUAL EVENTS

The Masters Case Tasting C298 (for subscribers only)

Wines from Portugal with Saturday, September 9 - 3PM

Eastern

The Masters Case Tasting C299 (for subscribers only)

Wines from Piemonte

Saturday, October 7 - 3 PM Eastern Information available on our blog at WWW.OPIMIAN.CA/BLOG

OPIMIAN TRAVEL

EXCLUSIVE TO OPIMIAN MEMBERS AND THEIR GUESTS

October, 2023

Tuscany, Italysold out Piedmonte, Italysold out

February, 2024 South America

Nine nights, ten days in a small group. We'll visit Opimian wineries in Chile and Argentina.

April, 2024

Spain

Visit Spain in the spring along with other Opimian wine lovers. Lots of great food and wine, culture and relaxation.

June, 2024

Niagara, Canada

Spend a luxurious long weekend in Canada's foremost wine region. The best of accommodation, dining and transportation.

September, 2024

California, USA

Experience the lush harvest season in world-famous Sonoma and Napa Valleys. Tour and learn. Sip and savour.

All of these trips will be offered to the entire Membership by email in advance of the registration period. If you would like to be added to the specific TRAVEL email list, please send an email to MemberService@opimian.ca with 'Travel List' in the subject line.

We're listening ...

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

With thousands of Members representing every province and territory, we receive a lot of feedback. While we can't satisfy every request, when we get the same suggestion from hundreds of Members, we consider it a trend.

You'll notice in this Cellar that, in addition to the key regions normally featured at this time of year - Portugal, California, The Pacific Northwest, and Germany, we have added a few wines from Bordeaux and Spain. By popular demand, we have these available for a second time in the annual cycle of offerings. Just another benefit of being a Member of Canada's Wine Club. With just a little planning, Opimian can provide you with all the wines and spirits you need throughout the year for every drinking occasion.

Feedback on the new 'Up to the Minute' newsletter feature that debuted in C307 was positive, so you'll find a second one

on page 4. We have also included, separately, an Events feature. As COVID is increasingly in the rear-view mirror, we will continue to add events across the country and plan Opimian travel opportunities more frequently.

Now to the wine! Ramilo of Portugal has become a multiyear Member favourite. So much so that they grace our cover and were selected for the Founders Choice subscription case. If you haven't experienced the superb value and quality of Founders Choice, this is a very good time to enroll.

The Canadian Corner continues to gain your attention and orders. Many wines and spirits in this feature are often available over several Cellars so they are there when you need them. The Harris Beach Cask Club includes a fascinating journey through the development of premium rye whisky. You can discover and order it online at opimian.ca.

Our neighbours to the south in the United States have a growing and spreading wine industry. To follow that trend, in addition to California and Oregon, you will have the opportunity to order wine from Washington State. Chosen carefully by our Masters of Wine, it represents the best quality from this lesser-known wine region. It will not disappoint.

Alex Pflüger produces wines that reflect the terroir of the Pfalz region of Germany. Our many German wine lovers in the Club snap them up every year. If you haven't tried them, or you would like to round out your selection of Old World, European wines in your own cellar, here is your ultimate chance.

It continues to be a privilege to lead Opimian into uncharted, post-COVID waters. Every normal is a new normal. Supply chains, liquor board relationships and consumer behaviour are all in flux. This requires adaptability and vision to have the Club flourish today and into the future.

Cheers

Michael & Greg

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.

Ordering Made Easy

1. SELECT YOUR WINES

Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER

There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST

The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Michael Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.

Louise Wilson MW : LW Jacky Blisson MW: JB Michael Palij MW: MP Igor Ryjenkov MW: IR

THE MASTER PIECE

The Diverse World of Portuguese Wines

By Jacky Blisson MW

Portugal enjoys an enviable position in southwestern Europe. Its continental coastline stretches over 800 km from north to south. Tourism is booming and it is no wonder. The scenery is stunning, the food is delicious, and the wines are better than ever.

The wide diversity of Portugal’s wine regions, from the cool, river valleys of Vinho Verde to the sun-drenched beaches of the

Algarve, allows over 250 different indigenous grapes to prosper. Vineyards span the country, from its vast plains to rugged, mountainous terrains. In the past, Portugal was best known for its Porto and bold red wines. Today, lighter, fresher wine styles are generating equal buzz, with a notable spotlight on elegant sparkling wines and serious dry whites.

Here is a brief overview of Portugal’s key wine regions:

Vinho Verde

Traditionally, the Minho region of northern Portugal produces light, crisp, low alcohol, subtly sparkling wines with a whisper of residual sugar. Most are white wines (aka Vinho Branco), made from a blend of local grapes in an unoaked, early drinking style.

More recently, Vinho Verde winemakers have begun experimenting with dry, still, single variety wines. These fresh new whites offer a fascinating opportunity to discover the varietal character of the region’s star varieties: Alvarinho, Arinto, Loureiro, and Trajadura.

Douro e Porto

The steep, terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley follow the sinuous path of the Douro River from the Spanish border, gradually flattening as they near the city of Porto. The climate is hot and dry, protected from wet coastal weather by the Serra do Marão mountains.

Native Portuguese red grapes Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Touriga Franca, and Touriga Nacional thrive here. These are the favoured varieties in the Douro’s famous fortified Port wines and its bold, dry reds. A small, but increasingly exciting quantity of premium white wine is also made here from local grapes Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Moscatel, Rabigato and Viosinho.

Dão

The mountainous region of Dão sits to the southwest of the Douro. The area is sheltered from the extremes of both continental and maritime weather patterns, giving it a temperate climate. Like the Douro, the Dão takes its name from the river that traverses its vineyards.

JACKY BLISSON is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine.

Touriga Nacional is the reigning red grape here, often blended with Tinta Roriz. The Dão’s more moderate climate and higher proportion of granite soil give a slightly fresher, more mineral-laced quality to these red blends as compared to the Douro. Excellent reds are also being made from the region’s Alfrocheiro and Jaen varieties.

Bairrada

The coastal plains of Bairrada have a mild, fairly rainy climate. The vineyards grow on clay-limestone soils in certain areas and on sandy soils elsewhere giving quite different wine styles – more ample and tannic on the former, silkier and lighter on the latter.

The major red grape of Bairrada is Baga. This thinskinned, late ripening variety yields red wines of vibrant freshness, medium body, and perfumed notes of wild berries and plum. Bairrada is also a revered terroir for sparkling wines in Portugal.

Alentejo

& Tejo

These hot, dry regions represent more than one-third of Portugal’s total surface area. Due to their varied topography and multitude of different soil types, each of these areas is sub-divided into a handful of winemaking sub-regions.

Alentejo, which means “beyond the Tejo” (river), is the heartland of Portugal’s red wine production. Major grapes include: Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelão, and Trincadeira. It is difficult to generalize given the region’s wide diversity, but rich, velvety, ripe-fruited red wines are common.

Lisboa

The vineyards of Lisboa are located to the north and west of Lisbon. A wide variety of sparkling, white, rosé, and red wines are produced here. Fresher, lighter styles are produced close to the Atlantic coast, while the warmer interior, shielded by the Serra de Montejunto hills, yields bolder wines.

Colares is a reputed red wine sub-region, located near Lisboa’s southwestern tip. The area’s sandy soils prevent Phylloxera infestations allowing for ungrafted vines of the local Ramisco variety. Its wines are robust and tannic.

The Islands

Located over 1000 kilometres from the mainland, it is easy to forget that the Madeira archipelago and the Azores are part of Portugal’s vibrant wine scene. Madeira is famous for its complex, long-lived fortified wines. The volcanic soils and marine breezes of the Azores give a distinctive salinity to its crisp white and red wines.

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING

CHÂTEAU NOTRE DAME, CUVÉE DU MOULIN, AOC MONTAGNE SAINT-ÉMILION, SABINE & THIERRY LEYNIER, 2018, LOT 4472, P15

HOOK & LADDER THE TILLERMAN RED BLEND, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, SONOMA COUNTY, 2020, LOT 4523, P44

RAMILO COLHEITA BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022, LOT 4459, P28

SPIELBERG RIESLING, PFALZ, 2022, LOT 4475, P17

CANADIAN CORNER

FIND AN EVEN BIGGER CANADIAN SELECTION ONLINE! WWW.OPIMIAN.CA

Sémillon, Vidal, Malbec

Whisky

Whisky

45%

Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie

Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel

Finish Allspice

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.–lw

11.5%

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon

A unique blend of grape varieties, including the only Malbec grown in Prince Edward County, gives the Karlo Estates Patio Reserve Rosé lots of personality. Rose petal perfume and aromas of pink grapefruit carry through to the palate where a refreshing twist of lime appears on the finish. 2023-2024.–lw

13%

Chardonnay

Rose, pink grapefruit

Rose, pink grapefruit, lime, [6.00]

Mussaman Thai curry with galangal, basil and lime leaf

Shipping fees may apply.

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli and a fresh greens salad

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in the glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028.– lw

3630

KARLO ESTATES PATIO RESERVE ROSÉ, VQA ONTARIO, 2021

3678

PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

JOIN THE HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB TO TASTE YOUR WHISKY EVERY YEAR AS IT AGES! LOT 3690

1043

HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY

2021

4220

Pinot Gris

$ 42 $ 252

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

Pinot Noir

$ 73 $ 438

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars’ Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a single vineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundian style Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2023-2025.– lw

12.5%

Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Beef carpaccio

4138

LIGHTFOOT AND WOLFVILLE SMALL LOT RIESLING PÉTILLANT NATUREL, 2021

Riesling

The 2021 Meldville Pinot Gris has a rich profile of ripe red apple, melon, honey and flowers with an appealing twist of grapefruit on the finish. Six months of lees contact in mature French oak barrel has resulted in a satisfying, mouth filing texture while the fresh acidity is the perfect counterpoint to the fruit. Ready to enjoy with or without a meal. 3 barrels produced. 2023-2024.– lw

12.5%

Ripe red apple, melon, honey, floral

Ripe red apple, melon, honey, grapefruit, [4.00]

Cheese plater

The wine world is buzzing about pétillant naturel or “pet nat” wines. In this ancient method of making sparkling wine, the one fermentation finalizes in the bottle, trapping the bubbles inside. It is also common for these wines to be hazy, or have sediment, as they are often not disgorged. The 2021 Lightfoot and Wolfville Small Lot Pétillant Naturel has a cloudy lemon hue and generous complexity. An enticing dance between its peachy, apricot stone-fruit notes and its savoury leesy bread dough side takes place on the nose and the palate. This mouth-watering conversation starter is a perfect way to begin an evening. Only 365 cases produced. 2023-2024.– lw

10%

Peach, apricot, bread dough, lees

Peach, apricot, bread dough, lees, [3.50]

Duck fat French fries

3758 MELDVILLE PINOT GRIS, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE,

$ 56 $ 336

FRANCE

BORDEAUX EXCLUSIVES

Maison Sichel

Set up as a buying office in 1883, the internationally renowned Maison Sichel has over 100 years of experience in the Bordeaux region. Their vineyards span over 200 hectares, primarily in AOC of Margaux on the left bank. With full or partial ownership of both d’Angludet and Palmer alongside a winemaking facility and bottling plant, Sichel oversees the quality of every aspect of the winemaking process. Today, they are fully committed to sustainable development and remain faithful to their ancestors’ philosophy of respect for the authenticity of their individual terroirs.

From the Margaux hinterland, this artful blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon offers textbook notes of Christmas cake, cooked plum, crushed black pepper and cedar. The tension and precision on the palate are exemplary at this price and this is a beautifully balanced wine. Blackberry, cedar and black plum harmonize with silky tannins and together drive the long finish. Drink now.

14%

Christmas cake, crushed black pepper, cedar and blackberry

Blackcurrant, cooked plum

Filet mignon with grilled plum sauce

4464 CHÂTEAU MONDAIN, AOC BORDEAUX, EARL CIROLI, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

photo — A Family affair: from left to right, James Sichel, Daisy Sichel, Benjamin Sichel, Allan Sichel, Max Sichel, David Sichel, Charles Sichel and Alexander Sichel.

$ 24 $ 288

A dry, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc perfect for sipping while preparing a weekday meal. Attractive gooseberry and lemon notes feature on the nose, with underlying herbal hints. The pungent grassiness that plagues many Sauvignons is happily absent here. Crisp, clean, and light-bodied with a zesty, citrus finish. 2023-2025.–jb

CAVE BEL AIR

Maison Sichel is one of Bordeaux’s most well respected négociant houses. The Cave Bel Air was the first winery of its kind, focused on proving that quality wines of consistent good value could be produced at the regional AOC Bordeaux level. Bel Air makes excellent white, red, and rosé Bordeaux from its own vineyards and its grower partners across a 200-hectare span.

12.5%

A typical red Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the excellent 2019 vintage. The nose features vivid fruity aromas over earthy hints. The palate is medium in body, with refreshing acidity, and moderately firm tannins. Serve slightly chilled with hearty vegetarian stews or lighter meat dishes. 2023-2026. –jb

The vineyards for Château Calendreau Prestige red are perched on a promontory in the Entre-Deux-Mers area of Bordeaux. These claylimestone slopes produce a lively, supple style of red for early drinking enjoyment. The nose offers an enticing mix of fresh and baked fruit flavours. This vibrant character is echoed on the palate, with its brisk acidity, medium-body, and moderately firm tannins. 2023-2027.–jb

Gooseberry, boxwood, lemon

Lemon, grapefruit, green herbs, [0.49]

Pan-roasted salmon with blood orange sauce

Raspberry, plum, floral, earthy

Plum, red currant, earthy, savoury

Hearty pot-au-feu vegetable stew

13.5%

13.5%

Red currant coulis, plum, floral, earthy

Plum, cassis, wild herbs

Grilled herbed veal chops with caramel-ized roasted vegetables

4465 BEL AIR, AOC BORDEAUX, SAUVIGNON, FAMILLE SICHEL, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc

4466 BEL AIR, AOC BORDEAUX, MERLOT CABERNET, FAMILLE SICHEL, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

4467 CHÂTEAU CALENDREAU, AOC BORDEAUX, PRESTIGE, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

photo The Cave Bel Air vineyards in Canton de Saint Macaire.

Sémillon

CHÂTEAU LA BIENVEILLANCE

Creating wines with “perseverance, patience, stubbornness – and perhaps just a touch of madness”, Château la Bienveillance is a little gem located 50km east of Bordeaux in Sainte Radegonde. Run by husband-and-wife Florent and Marine since 2016, this biodynamic and certified organic vineyard pays the utmost respect both to community and to environment and each bottle contains just a little bit of madness!

Light and fresh, the nose welcomes you with a complex yet integrated blend of candle wax, banana, celery, peach, green apple, and a hint of struck match. On the palate, the wine unfolds beautifully with a lovely waxy texture supported by aromatics of pear, melon and apple whilst the wet stone texture cuts across the palate with characteristic acidity. Drink now.– mp

Gorgeous nose with bright fruit flavours, fine tannins, a whiff of skillfully judged oak, and lots of blackberry, plum, Christmas cake, as well as dark chocolate and sweet spice. Now mature, this shows the balance, and complexity you’d expect from this estate. A range of black fruits are supported by oak aromas on the impressive finish. Drink now.–mp

13%

Candle wax, wet wool, banana, celery, peach, green apple

Pear, melon, apple and wet stone, [1.74]

Tuna tataki

4468 CHÂTEAU LA BIENVEILLANCE, AOC BORDEAUX BLANC, MARINE ET FLORENT JUSTO, 2022

13%

Plum, liquorice, and dark chocolate

Blackberry and black cherry

Roast duck breast, gratin dauphinois and green beans

4469 CHÂTEAU LA BIENVEILLANCE, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, MARINE ET FLORENT JUSTO, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

$ 37 $ 222

$ 37 $ 222

Merlot,

$ 58

$ 348

Since 1990, Philibert Perrin has crafted wines of genuine character, showcasing the fine gravel soils of the region and textbook Pessac minerality. A striking and distinguished nose of ripe red and black fruits, supported by toasty oak, is balanced on the palate with ripe tannins and fine minerality. This is a wine with an excellent future , which is also drinking well now. 2023-2033.– mp

$ 82 $ 492

Aptly named after a flower, this is an unutterably pretty and poised wine. Crushed black currant, cedar, vanilla, and wood smoke mingle with subtle oak. Finely crafted with obvious pedigree this demands your attention and is both lusciously fullbodied and impressively structured with finegrained tannins and layers of fruit. 2023-2027.–mp

13%

Blackcurrant, cherry, plum

Blackberry, cedar, leather

Croquetas de jamón and patatas bravas

13.5%

Crushed black currant, cedar, vanilla

Red berries, blackberry, liquorice

Shoulder of lamb with seasonal greens and thyme

CHÂTEAU LAFONT MENAUT

Château Lafont Menaut has been producing textbook wines from the Graves sub-zone of Pessac-Léognan since 1990. Now in the capable hands of the Perrin family, owners of Château Carbonnieux, and next door to Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, it’s little wonder that this estate continues to fashion classic Bordeaux wines at exceptional prices. These are wines that retain a racy elegance and the classic notes of fine Bordeaux. The estate runs to just over 18 hectares planted on the clay and gravel soils for which the region is well-known. Look for mineral notes in all their wines with more citrus in the whites and bright, plummy notes in the reds.

Merlot,

$ 42

$ 252

Bold and assertive in the mouth, this rich and full-bodied Montagne Sant-Émilion entices with its fully mature nose with tertiary notes of cooked cherry, stewed plum, leather, and forest floor. This is carried through on the palate as alcohol intertwines with sufficient acidity and tannins to keep everything on the boil. Enjoyable, mature, and exceptional value for money. Drink now.– mp

15%

Cedar, cooked cherry, leather and forest floor

Blackberry, black cherry, toast spice

Bœuf en croûte

4471 CHÂTEAU LAFONT MENAUT, AOC PESSAC-LÉOGNAN, ROUGE, PHILIBERT PERRIN, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

4472

CHÂTEAU NOTRE DAME, CUVÉE DU MOULIN, AOC MONTAGNE SAINT-ÉMILION, SABINE & THIERRY LEYNIER, 2018

Cabernet Franc

4473 CHÂTEAU FLEUR DE LISSE, AOC SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU, 2020

Cabernet Franc

DON’T MISS LAFONT MENAUT'S WHITE PESSACLÉOGNAN ONLINE, LOT 4470

photo Philibert Perrin is the owner of Château Lafont Menaut.

$ 42 $ 252

Riesling thrives in the light sandstone soils of the Buntsandstein vineyards in northern Pfalz. The 2022 cuvée is still very youthful, with piercing acidity and a firm, taut palate. Aromas develop from a tangy, citrus base to riper stone fruit nuances, with underlying earthy minerality. A nervy, complex, bonedry Riesling of excellent quality. Needs time to soften. 2024-2030 –jb

12%

Lime, lemongrass, apricot, wet stone

Lemon, grapefruit, apple, earthy, [4.00]

Vietnamese chicken wings with fish sauce, garlic and scallions

WEINGUT PFLÜGER

The Pflüger family were pioneering figures in the Pfalz when they started farming their vineyards according to organic principles over 20 years ago. In 2008, they decided to take their commitment a step further and covert to biodynamic agriculture. Current generation owner Alex Pflüger is passionate about creating a harmonious vineyard ecosystem, and this passion can be tasted in his vibrant, complex wines.

GERMANY

The Pfalz

Germany has a long and storied viticultural tradition dating to Roman times. The majority of the country’s vineyards are located along its western flank. Cool to moderate temperatures combined with inclines and vine row orientations that favour abundant direct sunlight allow a multitude of aromatic white varieties and light-red wine grapes to flourish. The Pfalz is one of Germany’s most exciting and diverse wine regions. Its vineyards are tucked between the Rhine River and Haardt Mountains, a prolongation of Alsace’s Vosges. Racy, age-worthy Rieslings are produced here, as well as fragrant Pinot white and red wines.

4474 RIESLING BUNTSANDSTEIN, PFALZ, 2022 Riesling

photo — Alex and Aline Pflüger with their daughters Elise, Sophie and Lina (from left to right).

$ 49 $ 294

The Biodynamite cuvée is a tribute to Pflüger’s biodynamic viticultural practices and how they bring vitality and complexity to his wines. This blend of 70% Riesling and 30% Gewürztraminer is brimming with floral, lychee and stone fruit aromas. The palate is more savoury and earthy, medium weight, firm frame and a dry finish. 2023-2028.–jb

Riesling

$ 57 $ 342

The Spielberg vineyard was planted over 40 years ago. The limestone soils here have a thin vein of red sandstone. This single vineyard plot produces ripe, rounded, mineral wines with lots of distinction. The 2022 cuvée from Pflüger has a broad, voluptuous mouthfeel, balanced by bright acidity. A rich, ripe fruited wine with lots of staying power. 2023-2030.–jb

12%

Baked apricot, peach, acacia, wet stone

Honeyed apricots, lemon, mango, [10.00]

Honey-citrus grilled red snapper

$ 45 $ 270

A very appealing Pinot Noir that allies tangy red fruit with earthy, herbal undertones on the nose. The palate is initially quite brisk with tart fruited flavours. However, the mid palate reveals a satiny texture and concentrated core bringing more weight and dimension. Finishes dry with fine-grained tannins. 2023-2027. –jb

Floral, lemon, lychee, peach

12.5%

Lemon, peach, savoury, earthy, [4.00]

Grilled cayenne-spiced Thai chicken thighs with pineapple, mango and papaya

Red currant, plum, earthy, herbal

13%

Cranberry, red currant, plum, herbal

Mushroom jägerspätzle

4475 SPIELBERG RIESLING, PFALZ, 2022

4476 BIODYNAMITE, PFALZ, 2022

Riesling, Gewürztraminer

4477 PINOT NOIR BUNTSANDSTEIN, PFALZ, 2021

Pinot Noir

ALEX IS A TRENDSETTER - ONE OF THE FIRST TO BRING BIODYNAMICS TO THE PFALZ.

DID YOU KNOW?

The War of the Worlds?

By Igor Ryjenkov MW

A UFC fight promo?

Nothing quite that scary or dramatic.

“Old World vs New World” is a short-hand handle that effectively puts all the wine in the world into one of the two largest “buckets”: the wines of Europe, Asia Minor and Levant vs those made elsewhere in the world.

Does it matter, and if so, why? Yes, it is a geographical distinction, but it is also a chronological and a philosophical divide. Since, with a few exceptions, all the wines outside of Europe are also made with the European grapes, Vitis vinifera, collectively, Old World has centuries’ more of know-how with those grapes. But just as important, if not more, is the philosophical distinction between the two that can be boiled down to “medium vs message”, and that actually impacts how the wines behave in the glass. It is not a matter of rejecting one over the other, but that of emphasis, and focus. Any quality winemaker sets out to make a good wine using the best quality grapes. However, typically, in Old World it means a winemaker shepherding the wine towards the best expression of its provenance. The aromatics are subtler, often with strong mineral or savoury component – e.g. slate, brioche, consommé. In New World there is greater emphasis on fruit and upfront appeal and the winemaker is usually a more active participant in the wine’s creation. Neither approach is wrong or right,

just different. You may have heard this before – “It’s a beautiful Chardonnay!” would be a complement to a New World winemaker. However, a Burgundian producer would be far happier to hear “It’s a beautiful Meursault”. It is a subtle but very impactful difference. The naming convention further highlights it –“Bordeaux” alone gives an informed consumer a good idea of what to expect, but “Napa” needs a grape qualifier – Cab, Zin, etc.

The good news is that, as with many things in wine, one does not need to be an expert in spotting these differences in the glass in order to enjoy wine. However, a little knowledge helps to navigate better in the world of wine, helps to explain why you gravitate towards one style over the other, especially if your preferences align along the “New vs Old World” divide. A number of wines show their provenance clearly by being uniquely New World or European – like many Italian grapes, Spanish Tempranillo or South African Pinotage. But the more intriguing and telling comparison is that of the same grapes or similar blends from New and Old Worlds side by side. This Cellar offers you several such opportunities, with Pinot Noirs from Oregon and Germany, and the Bordeaux blends from Pessac and California’s Russian River.

As with any generalization, there are a lot of outliers and exceptions. It was not always easy to spot the difference before and it is even harder today. With more frequent warmer vintages around the globe, even in formerly marginal climates of European classics, and cross-pollination of grape-growing and winemaking expertise, the distinction is subtler than even before. But it is not gone and not likely to disappear entirely. The distinction which, as we see, is not as much as a war, but rather a polite but crucial difference of opinion, yet one more quirk of the wine world that makes its exploration endlessly fascinating.

Toronto-based IGOR RYJENKOV MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 year in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly, in projects, most notably, developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix. Igor is one of Opimian’s Masters of Wines.

SAUVIGNON BLANC QUARZIT, PFALZ, 2022

WEISSBURGUNDER QUARZIT, PFALZ, 2022

4478

PFLÜGER SAUVIGNON BLANC/ WEISSBURGUNDER CASE3 BOTTLES EACH

$ 42 $ 252

This mixed case of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Blanc offers a fascinating opportunity to compare how soils and terroir affect two different grape varieties from the same vintage. Both wines are sourced from vineyards in the northern Pfalz featuring quartzite soils.

UNIQUE YET FAMILIAR; A GREAT WAY TO ADD GERMANY TO YOUR CELLAR!

Sauvignon Blanc

The Sauvignon Blanc for the Quarzit cuvée is sourced from several plots sharing a quartzite soil composition. These light, warm soils make very elegant Sauvignon Blanc. Vivid notes of grapefruit give way to deeper, tropical fruit nuances with aeration. The palate is dry, light bodied and hugely refreshing with a supple mid palate. 2023-2026.– jb

12%

Grapefruit, passionfruit, green herbs

Green apple, lemon, grapefruit, [5.00]

Lemon and garlic-butter scampi grilled in shell

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc)

Weissburgunder is the German name for Pinot Blanc. The Pfalz is among the world’s best vineyard regions for the grape. The Quarzit cuvée from Pflüger features pretty spring flower aromas mingled with ripe orchard fruits and hints of melon. The palate is medium bodied and rounded with crisp acidity and lingering bright stone fruit nuances. Highly versatile wine to pair with a broad range of light dishes. 2023-2026.– jb

12.5%

Spring blossoms, yellow apple, melon

Lemon, nectarine, apple, [6.00]

Mussels steamed in white wine with butter and shallots

photo Alex Pflüger in one of his Sauvignon Blanc vineyards

SPAIN

SPANISH EXCLUSIVES

Spain boasts the world’s largest vineyard area with just shy of one million hectares planted. The country’s winemaking tradition dates to the Phoenician colonization in Andalusia some 3,000 years ago. Today, wines of excellent quality and value are made in every corner of Spain from the verdant northwest to the balmy Mediterranean shores. The range of Spanish wine styles is remarkable. Bold, age-worthy red wines are made in numerous fine wine regions including Rioja, Toro and Ribera del Duero; the Penedes region produces lively Cava sparkling wines, while the arid southwest is home to excellent fortified Jerez (sherry).

$ 41 $ 246

The Toro appellation is in Castilla y León in northwestern Spain. The region’s major red grape is Tinta de Toro (also know as Tempranillo). The wines are fashioned in a powerful, grippy style requiring a little time in bottle to soften. The 8 Rosas Negras cuvée has heady dark fruit and spice flavours developing a savoury note on the finish. Overall, a fresh, full-bodied, concentrated red with firm tannins. 2024-2029.–jb

14.5%

Macerated black fruit, kirsch, cloves

Plum, black cherry, spice

Gouda-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon (pintxo dátiles con beicon)

4479 8 ROSAS NEGRAS, ANCIENT VINES, DO TORO, 2020

Tinta de Toro

Traslanzas & Cigales

Sourcing grapes from some of the oldest vineyards in the DOP Cigales, the Translanzas winery, owned by oenologist Maria Pinacho and viticulturist Carlos Gonzalez, produces wines with ancient Tempranillo. A hobby that became a business, Translanzas is a passion project for this couple who started off with a small parcel of Tempranillo planted by Maria’s grandfather in 1945. Thirty hectares and 25 vintages later, they are still going strong. Handharvested in small-capacity boxes with less than one kilogram of grapes per vine, these are fabulous wines that have little to do with the rosés that once characterized this DO.

Ripe notes of tinned mandarin, apricot jam, honeysuckle and orange marmalade immediately leap out of the glass reflecting the warmth of this unique terroir. In the mouth, this is rich and bursting at the seams with ripe stone and tropical fruit and a subtle touch of oak. The finish is long and complex – driven by the weight of fruit but held together by the acidity. Drink now.– mp

13%

Apricot jam, honeysuckle and orange marmalade

Apricot, lychee, vanilla, [1.00]

Chicken pad Thai

A unique and enchanting nose from a coolclimate Tempranillo, Tres Cuesta displays notes of red plum, cherry, cranberry and raspberry. On the palate, the succulent red fruit joins nicely balanced tannins and zippy acidity, all of which is carefully supported by integrated oak. This is a warming, chunky red that can happily stay in the cellar for a year or three. 2025-2030. – mp

14.5%

Red plum, cherry, cranberry, and raspberry

Cherry, blackcurrant, hint of cinnamon

Chimichurri steak tacos

4480 TRASLANZAS VERDEJO & ALBILLO, DOP CIGALES, 2022

Verdejo, Abillo

4481 TRES CUESTAS, DOP CIGALES, 2021 Tempranillo

NEW

SPAIN

Alan de Val & Valdeorras

Located in the on-trend DO of Valdeorras, brothers Joaquin, Manuel, and Jose-Luis Sánchez Rodríguez have been producing exceptional wines at Alan de Val winery since 1993. Committed to growing exclusively native varieties from their own vineyards, tradition and terroir are central to this young and exceptionally dynamic estate. Highly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean breezes, and yet with a distinct mountain feel, this is home to Godello and Mencía, two of Spain’s unsung heroes. Both whites and reds have pure aromatics with lovely freshness and delicacy.

TRANSPORT YOURSELF TO SPAIN WITH THESE INDIGENOUS GRAPES

$

Aromas of dried flowers, stewed plum and cedar leap out of the glass and presage plenty of joyful fruit to come. High levels of both tannins and acidity are perfectly poised against the ripe fruit and work together to create a generous mouthful of crunchy Spanish red. Now fully mature and with admirable length, this shows the capability of the Mencía variety to age. While delicious now, there is no hurry to drink it. 2023-2026.–mp

Hailing from this small family winery in Valdeorras, the passionate hands of the Sánchez Rodríguez brothers have crafted a real gem. It showcases all the hallmarks of cool-climate Galician red: pomegranate, red cherry, cranberry and licorice. An admirable balance of acidity, fruit and tannins are supported by a subtle touch of oak. An excellent alternative to Loire Valley reds or over-priced Burgundies. 2023-2026.

mp

14%

Red cherry, hawthorn, hay and liquorice

Red currant, cranberry

Roast duck with sour cherry and fondant potatoes

13.5%

Dried flowers, stewed plums, cedar, clove, liquorice and dried cherries

Plum, blackberry, cherries

Gouda and chorizo jalapeño poppers

4482 ALAN DE VAL CASTES NOBRES, DO VALDEORRAS, 2020

Brancellao, Caiño, Souson

4483 PEDRAZÁIS MENCÍA BARRICA, DO VALDEORRAS, 2020

Mencía

59 $ 354

$ 59 $ 354

A new winery for Opimian, Tresmano has a number of excellent cuvées, including this Proventus 2019. Intense floral and dark fruit notes gain in complexity as smoky, savoury nuances emerge. The palate is full bodied and dense with well-integrated oaked notes and powerful tannins. A ripe, robust, ageworthy red. 2024-2034.–jb

Tresmano & Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero, in the Castilla y León, is one of Spain’s most revered red wine regions. The vineyards are planted on a high plateau at over 600 metres. Hot, sunny days are tempered by chilly nights allowing the region’s Tempranillo grapes to ripen slowly and fully, preserving fresh acidity.

Bodega Tresmano is a quality-focused 55-hectare estate with vineyards across Ribera del Duero’s best sub-zones.

14%

Potpourri, plum, black cherry, smoked meat

Plum, cherry, dark chocolate, sweet tobacco

Mackerel tapas with cherry tomato and Vidalia-onion jam

Vendimia refers to the grape harvest in Spain. This offering from new Opimian winery, Tresmano, is a testament to the warm, dry 2020 growing season. These optimal conditions allowed grapes to hang on the vines into October. The resulting wine is beautifully ripe with complex perfumed aromatics and a dense palate lifted by vibrant acidity. High, chalky tannins frame the finish nicely. 2025-2035.–jb

14%

Floral, black olives, cherry, cedar

Blackberry, cherry, sweet tobacco, almond

Portuguese chanfana lamb stew

This new Opimian Ribera del Duero is sourced from a single vineyard plot boasting limestone-rich sedimentary soils, bringing a certain freshness and verve. The 2018 vintage is just starting to show developed notes of leather and mocha among its array of baked dark fruit aromas. Powerful and fleshy on the palate with marked tannins and lingering savoury hints. 2024-2030.–jb

14%

Baked dark fruit, leather, mocha, cedar

Plum, cherry, savoury, earthy

Jamón ibérico

4484 PROVENTUS BY TRESMANO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2019

Tempranillo

4485 TRESMANO VENDIMIA, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2020

Tempranillo

4486 A.R.T MILLA, SINGLE VINEYARD, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2018

Tempranillo

With a wine culture that developed in relative isolation, if you don’t recognize the grape variety on a Portuguese wine label it’s probably a good thing! The majority of grapes grown in Portuguese vineyards are not found anywhere else in the world – and with 250 indigenous varieties, the country boasts an enviable range of flavours and structural profiles to surprise even the most experienced drinker. Portugal’s 832 kilometres of Atlantic coastline ensure that sea breezes influence much of Portuguese vineyards, particularly in Vinho Verde where this high-acid, refreshing and aromatic white is always served young. Further inland, the Douro region offers more weight and is home to full-bodied reds and the iconic dessert wine, Port.

ALTEIA - FAUSTO CARDOSO

Reviving the land in memory of his father and uncle who had grown up in the region, vintner Fausto J. Montenegro captures the unique Douro landscape in this young winery founded in 2010. It’s a small estate – just 10 hectares of vineyards – but perfectly formed and all grapes are meticulously hand-harvested and cultivated using both traditional and modern pruning systems. These are classically rendered and beautiful wines.

70 $ 420 $ 40 $ 240

This is elegant and refined with graceful fruit notes of cranberry, pomegranate, red plum and just a hint of oak. The Douro seldom renders wines with this level of delicacy and finesse when utilizing only indigenous varieties, but this has lovely acidity and tannins allied to bright red and black fruit. Drink now. – mp

12.5%

Cranberry, red cherry, pomegranate, red plum

Blackberry, apricot, balsamic

Tagliatelle al ragù

Dark chocolate, woody, autumn baking spice, intense and concentrated as you’d expect from this region, robust and for lovers of big bold fruity reds, this delivers a big hit of concentrated red and black fruit. Drink now.– mp

$ 103 $ 618

Capturing the essence of Portugal’s native varieties, this Clave de Fá Grande Reserva makes a bold entrance on the nose – pronounced, complex, aromatic, and sporting a judicious mix of oak and fruit. Plenty of blackberry, plum and fig drive a fruit-forward profile balanced with notes of black pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom that lingers. There’s a solid structural core with robust tannins and zippy acidity. 2024-2030.–mp

13.5%

Dark chocolate, wood, autumn baking spice

Blackberry jam, sandalwood, cooked plum

Grilled lamb tenderloin with roasted red pepper polenta

Black pepper, fig, cinnamon, anise

Blackberry jam, vanilla, chocolate

14%

Turkey with wild mushroom and chestnut stuffing

4490 ALTEIA, VINHO TINTO, DOC DOURO, 2019

Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional

4491 VARIAÇÃO TOURIGA NACIONAL, DOC DOURO, 2018 Touriga Nacional

4492 CLAVE DE FÁ GRANDE RESERVA, DOC DOURO, 2019

Vinhas Velhas (Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca, Tinta da Barca), Touriga Nacional

$ 33 $ 198 $ 31 $ 186

Adamante Branco captures the refreshing essence of the region’s Atlantic breeze with simple, fresh and direct notes of citrus, stone fruit and cut grass leading to a refreshing and light-bodied palate. The unique mix of indigenous varieties with Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier crafts a surprisingly complex white with saline notes and fresh acidity. Drink now. – mp

Showing the refreshing notes that typify Vinho Verde with candied peel, lemon and grapefruit aromas this takes you straight to the coast. Delicate and sprightly in the mouth it has a typical spritz allied to gently aromatic candied fruit and citrus notes and the finish is driven by fruit and distinctive acidity. With moderate alcohol, this is the very essence of summer. Drink now.– mp

$ 42 $ 252

Showcasing the very best indigenous grapes of the Douro region, this wine mixes herbal and citric notes that anticipate fresh acidity and lovely creamy texture. On the palate there’s lemon pith, pink grapefruit, fennel and wet stone that create a refreshing and delicate white ideal with simply grilled fish. Drink now.– mp

Herbs, orange, peach and cream

Peach, apple, lime, [2.50]

Grilled peach salad with goat cheese

Lemon peel, grapefruit pith, pineapple

Candied fruit, lemon, [6.00]

Summer citrus salad

13%

Lemon pith, pink grapefruit, fennel, dried herbs, orange blossom, and wet stone

Pineapple, lemon zest, grapefruit, [4.50]

Grilled red mullet with orange, fennel and rocket salad

CAVES CAMPELO

One of the most well-known houses in Vinho Verde, Caves

Campelo has been crafting award-winning wines since 1951. This experience helps them get the best out of local grapes while an eye to the future has helped the family style stay relevant. Since 2007, a new generation has helped craft wines with slightly more power, often from the admixture of international varieties. It’s not easy making great wines in Vinho Verde, and these were genuinely impressive.

4493 ADAMANTE, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022

Fernão Pires, Arinto, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier

4494 CAMPELO VINHO BRANCO, DOC VINHO VERDE, 2022

Loureiro, Trajadura, Arinto, Avesso

4495 MONTELOURO, BRANCO, DOC DOURO, 2022

Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato

FIND THIS PRODUCER’S RED WINES IN THE ONLINE BOTTLE SHOP

Chardonnay

$

$

A ripe, full-bodied style of Chardonnay with intense aromas of baked orchard fruit underscored by hints of toasty oak. Despite fairly brisk acidity, the palate remains bold in style with its glossy, buttery texture and lingering caramel flavours. Drink now with firmer fleshed fish or roast chicken. 2023-2025.–jb

13.5%

Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 23 $ 276

A heady, aromatic Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of stewed dark fruit, caramel and baking spice. The palate is fleshy and warming with reasonable freshness and rounded tannins. Subtly sweet dark fruit flavours linger on the finish. A ripe easy-drinking red wine best served slightly chilled. 2023-2026.–jb

Black currant jam, plum, caramel, spice

Sweet dark fruit, licorice, spice

Tamari-marinated grilled lamb skewers

Zinfandel, Merlot, Petite Sirah

$ 23

$

A red blend featuring Lodi’s signature red grape Zinfandel with Merlot and Petite Sirah. Intense dark berry fruit notes are underscored by spicy black licorice on the nose. The palate is weighty with jammy dark fruit and hints of tobacco. Finishes brisk with firm, grainy tannins. 2023-2026.– jb

13.5%

Baked pear, apple, butterscotch

Caramel, vanilla, baked pear, [3.00]

Roasted chicken

Crushed blackberry, dark cherry, licorice

Sweet dark fruit, tobacco, wild herbs

Braised ox tail with mole sauce

4515 STONE VALLEY RED BLEND, CALIFORNIA, 2021

4513 STONE VALLEY CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA, 2021

4514 STONE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CALIFORNIA, 2021

23

276

276

$ 21 $ 252

From Portuguese native white varieties Fernão Pires, Seara Nova and Vital, this light, unoaked white wine has interesting spiced, herbal, orchard fruit aromas. The palate is taut and linear with racy acidity and hints of refreshing bitterness on the finish. A top value selection for white wine aperitifs. 2023-2025.– jb

TOP VALUE

WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING

Lemon,

13%

Syrah,

$ 21 $ 252

This regional red from Lisboa blends Syrah with native varieties Castelão and Aragonez (a.k.a. Tempranillo). Smooth and medium in body with mixed black fruit flavours and hints of black olive tapenade. Finishes on a subtle savoury note. Easy-drinking weekday red wine. Serve sligh-tly chilled. 2023-2025.–jb

13%

Ripe black fruit, black olive, tar

Mixed black fruit, savoury, smoky

Pan-roasted venison saddle with blackberry sauce

4488 MIRANTE, TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2020

Castelão, Aragonez

Fennel, lemon zest, nettles, apple

apple, green almonds, [1.20]

Vietnamese fresh rolls with avocado, jicama and soba noodles

4487 MIRANTE, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022

Fernão Pires, Seara Nova, Vital

Manuel Francisco Ramilo & Filho

Boasting over 80 years of winemaking, Quinta Do Casa do Ramilo is one of Portugal’s top producers in what were the nearly abandoned vineyards of the now terribly fashionable Lisboa wine region nestled in the untouched mountains around Sintra. Having recovered from a period of financial difficulty in the second half of the 20th century, brothers Pedro and Nuno Ramilo faithfully uphold the local traditions of the region. Reviving ancient stone walls from old family vineyards, saving old vines and planting new ones, the estate has experienced a remarkable renaissance and is now one of the largest private producers of the legendary Ramisco from Colares. The unique combination of proximity to the Atlantic and the Lizandro River tracing the vineyard boundaries creates a microclimate characterized by wet, cold nights and warm, sun-kissed days, with temperatures averaging 30C.The result: perfectly ripe and balanced grapes that display the potential of Portugal’s indigenous varietals.

From the beautiful coastal Lisboa region of Portugal, this Ramilo Colheita Branco beautifully showcases native varietals including Viosinho, Alvarinho and Fernão Pires. Floral aromas of acacia and honeysuckle are lifted by the additional complexity from lees ageing, while baked stone fruit adds weight on the palate. The skin contact is carefully judged and brings a welcome phenolic texture to the wine. 2024-2028. –

13.5%

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

Apricot and peach, bay leaf, honeysuckle

Lime, green apple, [0.00]

Greek Salad

mp

4459 RAMILO COLHEITA BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022

Viosinho, Alvarinho, Fernão Pires

photo — Manuel Padeiro has worked for the family's vineyards for decades.

$ 37 $ 222

Vital, Arinto, Malvasia

$ 52

The Ramilo winery delivers another showstopper with Nativas Branco. This wine has a gorgeously rich and creamy texture with plenty of natural acidity and concentration of fruit allied to judicious skin contact. Genuine interest and a unique personality shine through aromas of candied lemon peel, peach kernel, wet stone and dried honey add intrigue. It’s long, refined and beguiling on the finish. 2024-2026.–mp

13%

Candle wax, dried honey and wet wool

Lemon, peach, [0.00]

Goat cheese, pear and walnut tartines

Galego Dourado

$ 89 $ 267

Distinctively vegetal and herbaceous, the unique Galego Dourado grape expresses dried herbs and a hint of fresh apple and wet stone on the nose. It’s texturally dense with masses of acidity and further palate weight arriving thanks to the absence of added sulphites. A stunningly dense white from the unique terroir of the costal Lisboa region. 2024-2026.–mp

THE PERFECT EXPRESSION OF

12.5%

Green apple, dried herbs, wet stone

Citrus and tropical fruits, [0.00]

Lemon, herb and Parmesan-crusted cod

4460 RAMILO NATIVAS BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022

PORTUGUESE TERROIR

4461 RAMILO GALEGO DOURADO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022

photo Jorge Mata, oneologist, and Nuno Ramilo taste their latest vintage.

The Bottle Shop

COLARES IS A TINY DOC ON A STRIP OF SAND ON PORTUGAL'S ATLANTIC COAST.

Massive nose and equally impressive in the mouth, this Malvasia immediately demands your attention with profound aromatics of sage, candied orange, guava and candle wax all jostling for centre stage. Notes of marmite, dried honey and apricot jam tango with positively old-school tannins and a monster level of acidity. Weird and oh-so-wonderful, you owe it yourself to try this. 2024-2035.–mp

13%

Dried sage, candied orange, barley sugar, candle wax

Marmite, orange peel, dried flowers, [0.00]

Wild salmon with radish and orange slaw

4462 MALVASIA DE COLARES BRANCO, DOC COLARES, 2021

Malvasia de Colares

$ 137 $ 274

$ 40

$ 240

A light, unoaked white wine made with Portuguese native grapes Arinto and Fernão Pires in the Tejo vineyard region. Quite discreet on the nose with fresh, lifted aromas. The palate unoaked and crafted in a smooth, supple style. Finishes with lingering tangy grapefruit notes. 2023-2025.–jb

12%

Lemon zest, grapefruit, apple, earthy

Apricot, grapefruit, hint salinity, [2.40]

Grilled swordfish with citrus

Santos e Seixo

PORTUGAL

The Santos e Seixo winery was founded in 2010 by two family friends. Over the past 13 years, the team has amassed vineyard holdings in the Tejo, Douro, Vinhos Verdes and Alentejo. Their ambition is to create premium wines that represent their native varieties and unique terroirs. A commitment to sustainable practices, like lightweight-glass usage, is at the forefront of Santos e Seixo’s practices.

4497 CABEÇO DA PEDRA, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022

Arinto, Fernão Pires

$ 40

240

The Encosta do Sobral red is a blend of Portuguese star red grape Touriga Nacional with international varieties Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Intriguing hints of cumin and other exotic spices bring complexity to the ripe dark fruit and oaked nuances on the nose. The palate is bold and firm with lingering tobacco notes. 2023-2028.

$ 34 $ 204

13.5%

Currant, cherry, cranberry

Peppery black fruits

Portuguese-style pork and chorizo stew

In 2010 old mates Pedro Seixo and Alzira dos Santos joined forces to craft a new range of Portuguese wines. Originally based in the Douro, they now own more than 45 ha across five of the country’s key wine-producing regions. The Cabeço da Pedra expresses the slightly cooler climate of the Tomar sub-region with a lovely nose of fresh currant, cherry and cranberry, supported by an attractive note of forest floor. Elegant and balanced on the palate, fine tannins sit alongside a hint of pepper to create complexity and weight. Drink now.–mp

Plum, cassis, tobacco, exotic spice

Roasted duck breast with blackberry and

$ 43

A fairly tannic, full-bodied blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh and dried floral notes bring a lovely perfume on the nose. The palate has bright juicy acidity throughout and a refreshing minty note on the finish. A very balanced, well-structured red that should drink well for several years to come. 2023-2030.–jb

13.5%

Blackberry, plum, violets, potpourri

Plum, cassis, dried herbs, savoury

Azorean braised beef with chouriço

4498 CABEÇO DA PEDRA, TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2021

Castelão, Aragonez, Trincadeira

4501 ENCOSTA DO SOBRAL LIMITED EDITION, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2021

Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon

Blueberry, plum, cedar, exotic spice

port sauce

–jb

4500 ENCOSTA DO SOBRAL SELECTION TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2021

Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon

$

$ 258

$ 44

$ 264

The Coroa Vermelha Reserva ferments in the traditional Douro manner: in shallow, opentopped granite and schist vats called lagares The blend is then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Great care was obviously taken at each stage given the result. This red is weighty and concentrated yet very fresh with layers of fruity, herbal, spiced flavours and fine-grained tannins. 2023-2030.–jb

14%

$ 44

Peony, plum, blackberry, earthy

Plum, blackberry, licorice, mint

Bean and meat feijoada

$ 264

The Touriga Nacional, Sousão, and Tinta Roriz grapes for the Cevêr Reserva cuvée are sourced from the Baixo Corgo. This is the coolest of the three sub-regions of the Douro Valley. Wines produced here often have a firmer tannic frame and fresher acidity, as is the case here. Complex fruit and spice aromas are joined by savoury undertones on the palate. Overall, a dense, tannic red that merits decanting. 2023-2030.–jb

14%

Mocha, baked red cherry, plum, spice

Dark chocolate, red cherry, plum, savoury

Roast lamb over rice

4502 COROA VERMELHA RESERVA, TINTO, DOC DOURO, 2019

Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousão

4503 CEVÊR RESERVA, TINTO, DOC DOURO, 2020

Touriga Nacional, Sousão, Tinta Roriz

CELLAR UP!

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

As the sun sets on another summer, it's time to take stock of your wines and spirits. If you are a typical Member, you will have used far more wine than you've ordered.

This is the perfect time to get some Old World and some New World wines on their way to you. There are so many choices in this issue to expand your under-represented regions.

The styles here are so diverse as well. We've featured reds, whites and fortified on this page to bring your attention to some of the hidden gems. You can't go wrong for quality, value and pure enjoyment.

OLD WORLD WHITE

CHÂTEAU LAFONT MENAUT, AOC PESSACLÉOGNAN, BLANC, PHILIBERT PERRIN, 2020, LOT 4470, THE BOTTLE SHOP

The perfect light and refreshing Sauv Blanc to pull out when you're searing some scallops or having a light, salad supper. A great value that shows the quality of much more expensive whites from other appellations.

NEW WORLD WHITE

MELDVILLE PINOT GRIS, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021, LOT 3758, P11

From one of Canada's most awarded winemakers, Derek Barnett. Derek grows varietals to perfection in small parcels of vines in Niagara. There were only three barrels of this stunner so snap it up while you can. Can be enjoyed on its own, but is also very food friendly.

OLD WORLD RED PFLÜGER PINOT NOIR BUNTSANDSTEIN, PFALZ, 2021, LOT 4477, P17

The next time you serve this at a party or take it with you to dinner, you'll need to be prepared to answer the question 'A Pinot Noir from Germany?!?' You'll be able to tell your friends that they'll rarely see them at their liquor store but top-quality wines like this one are a benefit to being an Opimian Member. Tons of fruit and earthy tones with a dry finish.

NEW WORLD RED

HOLLORAN STAFFORD HILL PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 2021, LOT 4528, P47

To compare and contrast Old World and New World, this is an excellent choice. The Willamette Valley has become the benchmark for New World Pinots. The intricate care that goes into this beautiful wine shows on both the nose and palate. Outstanding!

FOR THE BAR

MIXED CASE: SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO - 3 BOTTLES EACH: LBV 2018 & RESERVA ESPECIAL, LOT 4510, P39

An exceptional way to add two styles of port to your bar by ordering just one case. Each delicious in their own way, they are a welcome accompaniment to cheeses, desserts, or sitting in your armchair reading your Cellar.

RÉCCUA VINHOS

With over 38 years of experience, Réccua Vinhos is a signature brand in the Douro Valley. A dedicated UNESCO world heritage site, the Douro is arguably the oldest demarcated wine region in the world and showcases what human ingenuity, countless hours of back-breaking labour and the unique adaptability of Portugal’s native varietals can produce. Focusing on getting the most from each varietal and site, Réccua crafts each bottle with a critical eye for detail and the resulting wines capture the very best from this region.

$ 58

$ 348

Honeysuckle, candle wax, marmalade and wet wool combine elegantly on the nose with the aromatic complexity married to just the right amount of phenolics from skin contact and a lively streak of acidity. Persistent and full-bodied, the fruit fills the mouth, and the weight, acidity and alcohol are all in balance. 2023-2025.– mp

$ 75 $ 450

Beautiful, elegant nose that is both focused and precise with raspberry, black cherry, spiced licorice and vanilla. This is perfectly framed on the palate with cashmere tannins and a vein of refreshing acidity that pulls everything into focus with unobtrusive oak and exceptional length. The mix of indigenous varieties in the blend lends harmony and complexity with a wealth of complex fruit flavours, acidity and tannins. This is classic Douro. 2023-2028.–mp

13.5%

Honeysuckle, wet wool, toffee, candle wax, marmalade, orange peel and basil

Apricot jam, lemon zest, [3.67]

Apricot chicken tagine with couscous

14%

Raspberry, black cherry, mulberry, and vanilla

Red jammy fruit, spices and cloves

Pulled pork teriyaki

4504 CABEÇA DE BURRO RESERVA, BRANCO, DOC DOURO, 2021

Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Fernão Pires, Gouveio

4505 CABEÇA DE BURRO RESERVA, TINTO, DOC DOURO, 2019

Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and other indigenous grape varieties

$ 35 $ 210

Blackberries, raspberries

Chocolate, red cherry

Grilled veal with port sauce

$ 43 $ 258

Intense notes of baked red fruit mingle with wild berries and herbal notes on the nose. The palate is medium in body, with a subtly chalky texture and savoury undertones. Bright and fresh throughout with moderately firm tannins and tangy fruit flavours. 2023-2026. –jb

13%

Classic Portuguese grape varieties including Castelão, Tinta Roriz, and Trincadeira (don’t worry if you have never heard of them) are beautifully blended in this beguiling Tejo red. Pedro D’Orey is the sixth generation of a winemaking family who launched his own range relatively recently with a mission to create accessible wines from native Portuguese varieties. Well, he’s hit the jackpot with this: modestly priced and brimming with bold brush strokes of blackberry, plum and raspberry. This is a joy to drink now and has balanced, gentle tannins and acidity. Drink now.– mp

13.5%

Raspberry jam, blackberry, dried herbs

Red and dark fruit, dried herbs, savoury

Bôla de Lamego

$ 49 $ 294

From the estate of Marquês de Tomar, this is a massively structured Tejo Red capable of developing into a thing of great beauty. There are masses of fruit and gorgeous tannins and acidity to support further evolution in bottle. The tightly wound nose of red and black fruit is supported by a hint of spicy oak. Wonderfully balanced and complex, this wine will drink well for some time. 2025-2030.– mp

14%

Plum, blackcurrant, cinnamon

Raspberry, blackberry

Filet mignon with garlic and rosemary

4507 QUINTA DA GIESTA, TINTO, DOC DÃO, 2021

Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Tinta Roriz

4508 MARQUÊS DE TOMAR SUPERIOR, VINHO TINTO, DOC TEJO, 2021

Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez

4506 JANGADA, VINHO TINTO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2021

Castelão, Tinta Roriz, Trincadeira

ANCIENT PEDIGREE, MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP

PORTUGAL

Porto

The fortified dessert wine Port hails from the Douro region in northern Portugal, a hot, mountainous area. Vines are planted on steep hillside slopes of shallow, rocky, often schist-based soils. Though delicious white and rosé versions exist, red Port is most common. It is made by adding neutral grape brandy to red wine during its fermentation. Depending on the style of Port – Ruby (a.k.a. Vintage) or Tawny – port wines are aged for varying lengths developing a rich and complex array of flavours. José Pinheiro, winemaker for over 25 years at the well-known Sandeman port house, is the producer behind Gesprove wines.

4509 CRAUFURD

YEARS OLD TAWNY, DOC PORTO, AGED IN WOOD (WOOD CASE)

PORTO, 10

Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão and other indigenous grape varieties

$ 160 $ 160

Aged for an average of ten years in traditional 550-litre oak barrels called “pipes,” this tawny port is amber in colour with developed, gently oxidative flavours of roasted nuts, dried dark fruits and toffee. The palate is ample and very glossy in texture with sufficient freshness to balance the luscious sweetness. 2023-2028.–jb

20%

Toffee, dried plum, potpourri, walnut

Sandalwood, toffee, dried dark fruit, nuts

As a digestif with a cigar

4510

SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO3 BOTTLES EACH: LBV 2018 & RESERVA ESPECIAL

$ 51 $ 306

This mixed case of brings together a longer aged, vintage-dated style of port, the LBV, with a more youthful, vibrantly fruity offering, Reserva Especial.

Late bottled vintage (LBV) ports are made from a single harvest with extended ageing in large, seasoned oak vats. The Soneto LVB 2018 was matured for four years before release. The nose offers fresh and developed aromas of dark fruits with earthy undertones. The palate is fresh and velvety smooth with firm, fine-grained tannins and balanced sweetness. Good moderate term ageing potential. 2024-2030.–jb

20%

Cassis, plum, sandalwood, violet, earthy

Blackberry coulis, plum, dark chocolate, earthy

Salame de chocolate

The Reserva Especial is a non-vintage port fermented at cool temperatures to preserve its bright fruity character and aged in seasoned oak casks for three years. Highly aromatic with candied dark fruit aromas and flavours. The palate is soft and mellow with subtle powdery tannins. Easy, early-drinking style of Port. –jb

20%

Candied black cherry, plum, eaux-de-vie, spice

Baked dark fruits and berries, allspice

São Jorge cheese

SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO, LBV, 2018

Blend of traditional Douro Grape Varieties

SONETO PORTO, DOC PORTO, RESERVA ESPECIAL

Blend of traditional Douro Grape Varieties

California

THE UNITED STATES

Californian wine is often summed up as “sunshine in a bottle,” but there is so much more nuance to its exceptional vineyard terroirs. Volcanic and tectonic activity over the millennia have created a landscape of rugged mountains and verdant valleys stretching eastward from the Pacific coast. Cooling breezes and overnight fog preserve fresh acidity in many of California’s finest vineyard areas providing great balance to their ripe, bold wines. Over 100 different wine grapes are grown across California’s sprawling vineyards: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel are reigning red grapes; Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc are its most popular whites.

Chardonnay

4517

Effusive aromas of citrus and spring blossoms mingle with bright orchard-fruit notes on the nose of this youthful Chardonnay. The palate is refreshing and smooth with tangy fruit lifting the toasty, subtly nutty flavours. A round, balanced early drinking white wine offering good value. 2023-2027.–jb

Aromas of baked dark cherry and plum initially define the nose with floral hints emerging over time. The palate is full bodied and moderately firm with bright acidity and subtle chocolatey notes that add interest to the fruity core. An easy week-night barbecue wine. Best served slightly chilled. 2023-2026.–jb

Zinfandel

The fine sandy loam soils of Lodi are inhospitable for damaging pests like phylloxera, allowing its vines to age in peace. The region is known for its wealth of 50- to 100-year-old Zinfandel plantings. The Ranahan Ranch is ripe and fruity with spicy overtones. Its ample proportions are framed by fresh acidity and chalky tannins. 2023-2026.–jb

13.5%

Preserved lemon, apple, white flowers

Lemon, apple, buttered toast, hazelnut, [3.64]

Vegan risotto

14%

Baked dark cherry, plum, floral hints

Ripe black and blue fruit, chocolate

BBQ espetada Madeira

14.5%

Baked plum, blueberry, violets, cloves

Baking spice, baked dark fruit

Fire-roasted creamy veggie pasta

4516 RANAHAN RANCH CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA, 2021

RANAHAN RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CALIFORNIA, 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon

4518 RANAHAN RANCH OLD VINE ZINFANDEL, CALIFORNIA, 2021

photo Craig Rous, vineyard manager, checking on the vines.

$ 36 $ 216 $ 36 $ 216

$ 36 $ 216

California, Here We Come!

It’s late afternoon on a warm, sunny day somewhere in a California wine region. A bank of fog is building over the Pacific Ocean and is headed your way. Before long, the fog rolls in and the temperature drops quickly. The moisture will often linger well into the following morning before burning off and the grapes get the warm of the sun once again.

This is perfect weather to grow spectacular Pinot Noir. You are in the Russian River Valley, an up-and-coming American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California’s Sonoma County. Farther east in the AVA, Zinfandel gets the additional heat it needs to ripen.

Home to Opimian favourite Hook & Ladder, the Russian River Valley yields outstanding grapes. This allows winemaker Jason De Loach to craft elegantly balanced wines of extraordinary expression, depth and complexity. Regular drinkers of California wines will find these to be worthy of being in the premium tier. This is a great place to start for those of you not as familiar with California.

Winegrowing here began in the early 1800s by Russian colonists. By the mid-century, Italian immigrants had taken what was started and created the foremost quality wines of Sonoma by the end of the century, producing fully a third of the entire country’s wine. Prohibition in the 20th century put an end to this growth and prosperity. By the end of prohibition, the remaining winemakers had to start rebuilding. By the 1970s, low-quality, ‘jug’ wines were being replaced by high-quality, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel.

Like all of California, RRV grapes benefit from the longer growing season than areas to the north. The calming influence of the Pacific Ocean generally tempers the extremes, but global warming is starting to have its effect here too. Were it not for the fog mentioned at the beginning, Pinot Noir would be on its way out. As it stands, these wines may be at their peak now.

If you’ve seen the 2008 hit movie Bottle Shock, you’ll know that California wines can stand up to (and exceed) the quality of French wines and other top wines from around the world. While the winners in the movie were from Napa, Sonoma’s quality is equal. And the prices are typically lower than those of Napa.

California has been at the forefront of the US wine industry from the beginning. For good reason. The climate, terroir, and expertise continue to lead the way to superb wines. Sampling these wines, particularly when they have been vetted by our own Masters of Wine, is virtually risk-free. Enjoy and raise a glass to those Russian immigrants who started something good.

BACKSTAGE

CHARDONNAY, RUTHERFORD, NAPA VALLEY, PROSCENIUM VINEYARD, 2022, LOT 4519, P43

HOOK & LADDER

PINOT NOIR, ESTATE BOTTLED, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, 2021, LOT 4524, P45

RANAHAN RANCH OLD VINE ZINFANDEL, CALIFORNIA, 2021, LOT 4518, P41

FOCUS ON CALIFORNIA

Chardonnay

CALIFORNIA

Mountain View Vintners

The Backstage Chardonnay is a Napa Valley offering from Mountain View. The Proscenium Vineyard is located in the premium growing area of Rutherford, midway up the valley. This 2022 is true to its origin: mellow, weighty and subtly warming. Intense stone fruit and spice aromas echo on the smooth, rounded palate. Finishes with subtle toasty oak notes. 2023-2025.–jb

13.5%

Mountain View Winery was established over 40 years ago, in Morgan Hill, California, south of San José. From the outset, the goal was to produce wines from across the state that best represented the symbiosis between wine grapes and the vineyard site. Today, Mountain View boasts a diverse range from top-growing areas including Napa, Sonoma, the Central Coast, and the Sierra Foothills.

Apricot, peach, almond, vanilla

Gooseberry, apricot, peach, baking spice, [0.02]

Chardonnay

13.5%

Cabernet Sauvignon

Lemon, apple, nectarine, vanilla

Gooseberry, lemon, apple, pineapple, [0.03]

Fettuccine with walnut-kale pesto

Due to the very deep waters in Monterey Bay, breezes blowing inland are markedly cool. This phenomenon tempers the hot, sunny climate giving very crisp acidity to many Monterey County wines: this Chardonnay is a good example. The palate is broad and smooth with very lively acidity and tangy fruit flavours that run the gamut from citrussy to tropical in profile. 2023-2026.–jb

14%

Dried cherry, plum, earthy, savoury

Baked plum, cherry, baking spice, tobacco

Grilled lamb burgers with smoked Gouda

Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for over half of plantings in the warm Paso Robles vineyards of California’s central coast. With its sandy loam soils and plentiful sunshine, the Epsom vineyard gives quite a bold, velvety style of Cabernet. This is a powerful, fleshy red wine with baked and raisined fruit flavours, underscored by hints of tobacco and savoury nuances. 2023-2026.–jb

Ahi tuna poke bowl with avocado and edamame

4519 BACKSTAGE CHARDONNAY, RUTHERFORD, NAPA VALLEY, PROSCENIUM VINEYARD, 2022

4520 MOUNTAIN VIEW CHARDONNAY, MONTEREY COUNTY, 2022

4521

MOUNTAIN VIEW CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PASO ROBLES, EPSOM VINEYARD, 2021

photo Backstage Winery: Where family bonds and unites in their passion for wine. Meet Angelo, Matt, and Olivia, the heart and soul of Mountain View.

$ 43 $ 516

$ 41 $ 492

$ 62 $ 372

CALIFORNIA Hook & Ladder

Hook and Ladder is the vineyard owned by none other than Cecil De Loach – he of De Loach vineyards fame. That company was sold to Boisset in 2003 and Cecil, wife Christine, grandson Jason and best mate, Clint Severson, established Hook and Ladder shortly afterwards. Named after Cecil’s seventeen-year career as a San Francisco firefighter, The Hook and Ladder vineyards are just down the road from De Loach in the Olivet Road District of the Russian River Valley. The De Loach family are Russian River pioneers and California winemaking royalty with more than 50 years’ experience in coaxing the very best from this region.

4523 HOOK & LADDER THE TILLERMAN RED BLEND, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, SONOMA COUNTY, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

$ 79 $ 474

Named after founder Cecil De Loach's position as “Tillerman” in the San Francisco Fire Department, this wine is equally assertive and commanding. Its ripe and appealing nose draws you in as plum, cedar, cinnamon and black cherry intertwine on the palate with robust tannins. Deep purple and full bodied, Tillerman closes the job with a long and spicy finish. 2025-2028. – mp

14.5%

Plum, cedar, cinnamon, licorice, black cherry and cassis

Blackberry, plum, cherry, leather, sweet spice and dark chocolate

Roasted rolled sirloin with rosemary and garlic

Pinot Noir

$ 81

$ 486

With grapes farmed since the 1800s from one of the most historic sites in the Russian River Valley, the estate Pinot Noir is an attractive, finely poised wine. Pronounced red fruits of raspberry, cherry and rhubarb layer beautifully with expressive oak, vanilla and baking spice aromas on the nose. Every glass makes you come back for more! 2023-2025. – mp

14.5%

Rhubarb, tinned strawberry, black cherry, and vanilla

Cherry, raspberry, cinnamon

Chicken Fricassée

Zinfandel

$ 99 $ 594

Chiseled from 100-year-old vines from the Marcucci Vineyard, this full-on red delivers a complex palate of jammy fruits supported by barrel maturation aromas of cedar, toast and coffee. Melded wood tannins and high alcohol take over centre stage on the palate and drive a lingering-note peppery spice. 2024-2027.– mp

Sangiovese

$ 131 $ 786

Consistently one of the most sought-after wines in the portfolio, this silky Sangiovese transports you to the sloping vineyards of Panzano, rather than Chalk Hill. A distinct old-world approach culminating in 40 months of bottle ageing creates a complex palate with some tertiary notes. Dried herbs, dark chocolate and tinned red fruit intertwine seamlessly with subtle oak notes of cedar and balsamic vinegar. Drink Now.–mp

15%

Blackberry jam, mulberry and toast

Blackberry jam, cocoa, black pepper

BBQ chicken with charred corn-on-the-cob

14.5%

Dried herbs, dark chocolate, tinned blueberries, and balsamic vinegar

Strawberry, black cherry, star anise

Brick oven pizza with basil, oregano, and Mozzarella

4524

HOOK & LADDER PINOT NOIR, ESTATE BOTTLED, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, 2021

4525 HOOK & LADDER THIRD ALARM ZINFANDEL, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, 2020

4526 HOOK & LADDER PRAETEREA SANGIOVESE, BRUNELLO STYLE, CHALK HILL, SONOMA COUNTY, 2019

The Pacific Northwest

Encompassing the states of Oregon and Washington, the Pacific Northwest is justifiably famous for getting about as close to Burgundy as one can (without going to Burgundy) and also for hum-dinger Bordeaux blends from Washington State. The first commercial vineyards only date back to the 1960s (almost a century after California) but it’s a region where investment is significant and standards are high. Sitting on the same latitude as Bordeaux and Burgundy and with direct maritime influence, Oregon affords the perfect home for aromatic, delicate Pinot Noir. Nestled between the Coastal and Cascade Mountain ranges, the cool rainy climate of the region allows the grape to gradually develop its hallmark acidity and the symphony of red fruit flavours that wine lovers crave. To the North, in Washington, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah all benefit from the region’s drier, warmer climate where conditions allow for deeper colour, fuller body and black fruit flavours. Wines from here are not cheap but compared to their counterparts in Burgundy and Bordeaux they offer excellent value. The Pacific Northwest is also at the forefront of the US sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wine movement.

Affectionally named after their meetings on the Second Tuesday of each month, this expresses perfectly the warm characteristics of the Yakima Valley in Washington State. The nose is led by tertiary notes of cooked plum, forest floor, tobacco and leather. Robust and rich tannins fill the mouth while a velvety earthiness lingers on the palate. Drink now.– mp

14%

Plum, forest floor, tobacco, leather

Ripe plum, blackberry, chocolate

Flank steak with rocket, onions and blue cheese

4527

TUESDAY CELLARS MERLOT, YAKIMA VALLEY, WASHINGTON, 2019 Merlot

$ 63

$ 378

HOLLORAN VINEYARD

Handcrafted with passion since 1999, the Holloran Vineyards capture the essence of the Willamette Valley through sustainable farming, organic and biodynamic practices and beautifully delicate aromatics. Small yields allow the utmost attention to detail, with shoot thinning, leaf removal, hedging and crop reduction all executed with diligence by the vineyard crew. Oregon’s cooler climate allows for expressive versions of Burgundian classics, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, always staying true to Old World traditions. The unique characteristics of each vintage and vineyard shine in the bottle and showcase the distinct, volcanic terroir.

For those looking for racy and refreshing Pinot, look no further. Oak is skillfully integrated on the nose supported by bright cherry, raspberry and cranberry. Fashioned using carefully selected barrels and handpicked grapes from the most prestigious blocks of the Dundee and EolaAmity sub-regions, the terroir takes centre stage on the palate: attractive and delightfully complex, bright fruit flavours are sharply defined and lead to a refreshing, lingering finish. 2023-2026.– mp

$ 88

The crisp, cool climate of the Le Pavillon vineyards nestled in the Dundee hills makes its presence felt in this old-vine, ungrafted Pinot Noir. Red fruit allied to subtle oak influence with floral notes of rose and violet work with cherry, cranberry, plum, licorice and cinnamon. Delicate fruits linger on the palate with an elegant, balanced finish. 2023-2026.– mp

$ 91 $ 546

Zippy and fresh from the first sip, the handharvesting and diligent winemaking from the Holloran team showcase crunchy red fruit alongside the vineyard’s signature, attractive acidity. With cherry, cranberry, dried rose and pomegranate on the nose, this is undeniably a quintessential Willamette Pinot Noir. Drink now.– mp

13%

Cranberry, red currant, and raspberry

Black cherry and roasted citrus

Mushroom truffle risotto

14%

Cherry, cranberry, plum and beetroot

Floral notes of rose and violet work with cherry, cranberry, plum, liquorice and cinnamon

Roasted chicken with tarragon jus

13%

Cranberry, pomegranate, cherry, plum and dried rose

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Chicken marsala with mustard and Mascarpone

4528

HOLLORAN STAFFORD HILL PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 2021

Pinot Noir

4529 HOLLORAN PINOT NOIR, DUNDEE HILLS, 2021

Pinot Noir

4530 HOLLORAN PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 2021

Pinot Noir

MASTER OF WINE SELECTED!

4531

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

$ 140 $ 420

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

The Collector’s Corner showcases the very best of three of Hook and Ladder’s ‘Four Rows’ wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. The ‘Four Rows’ series is the brainchild of head winemaker, Jason De Loach, who wanted to showcase the best of the estate’s individual vineyard sites. Selected from the best ‘four rows’ (actual number may vary) these are each designed to express the unique terroir in the Russian River Valley. Some are sourced from volcanic subzone of Chalk Hill, long-prized for its affinity for Bordeaux varietals.

FOUR ROWS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, 2019

FOUR ROWS MERLOT, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, 2019

FOUR ROWS CABERNET FRANC, ESTATE BOTTLED, CHALK HILL, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

Elegant and ethereal, this wine is immediately inviting as aromatic notes of blackcurrant and cherry mix with dark chocolate and sweet spice. Full-bodied and showing integrated oak, this Four Rows estate bottled Cabernet showcases the very best of Hook and Ladder with grapes selected from the Chalk Hill, De Loach family-owned vineyard. 2024-2025.– mp

15%

Blackcurrant, plum, dark chocolate

Raspberry vanilla

New York strip steak with crispy Brussel sprouts

Merlot

A classic California Merlot, this estatebottled red invites with distinctive aromas of crushed blackberry, plum, dried rose and cedar. On the palate, the nature of the fruit starts to develop and metamorphose from the fresh fruit found on the nose into silky-smooth dark chocolate and stewed black fruit. Utterly beguiling. 2026-2030.– mp

15%

Ripe black olive, crushed blackberry, dried rose, cedar and cooked plum

Coffee, chocolate, stewed black fruit and sweet spice

Lamb chops with honey-roasted carrots

Cabernet Franc

From the passionate hands of Cecil De Loach and his wife Christine, this Cabernet Franc expresses the rich terroir of the Russian River Valley’s coveted Olivet Road district. Complex and distinct on the nose with sweet, ripe black fruits mixing it up with black pepper, cedar and star anise leading to a decadent, cacao powder finish. Drink now.– mp

15%

Cassis, boysenberry, black pepper, cedar, and anise

Cinnamon, cardamom, berry, and cacao

Grilled steak with peppercorn sauce

FOUR ROWS CASE: 1 BOTTLE EACH: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC

COMMUNITY

The Price/Value Conundrum

By Michael Palij, MW

It’s a taxing question, whether it is worth paying more for a bottle of wine. On a federal basis, duty is charged per litre of liquid (or per litre of pure alcohol so we need to assume that all wines are the same ABV) and not as a percentage of the sale: trade up, and you could get better liquid for your liquide. There are most certainly different levels of quality in wine although the ratio to price is non-linear. At one end, 96% of wine is consumed within 24 hours of purchase. Almost all of this will pass the lips without registering even a flicker on the enjoyment radar. At the other extreme, the world’s top wines trade hands for tens of thousands of dollars a bottle, often by consumers who could not recognize such brilliance when served the same wine blind. Surely there must be some fertile ‘middle ground’ where wines over-deliver?

So what’s the sweet spot? There are two ways to approach this. Tax is often a flat rate and therefore the % of the bottle cost that goes to the taxman is disproportionally higher in a cheaper wine. Doubling the retail price results in having 10X more money to spend on the liquid. This, however, assumes that all the other costs are held constant. Premium packaging will cost considerably more (a 48mm AAA cork is now CAD$ 3 – just for the cork) and producer margins are highly variable. It is almost impossible to spend more than CAD$ 42 in variable costs in the production of a bottle of wine (fancy cork, low yields, 100% new oak, labour, depreciation, etc) but excluding the cost of capital. In other words, excluding the value of the land. Grand Cru Burgundy is currently CAD$ 14.4M a hectare and yields are 40 hl/ha. To keep the numbers really easy, that’s CAD$ 144 a bottle to provide a 5% return. And that’s before you’ve made any wine (or profit).

So where can the canny consumer turn?

The smart money is on spending at least double the national average and selecting an authentic example from a lesser region. As a good friend from Norway (where prices are habitually high) once said, ‘buy cheap, buy twice’. Portugal, Germany and Italy all offer cracking wines for pocket money. Top Rieslings, for example, last as long as their red Bordeaux equivalents, but are seldom so unaffordable. No one is denying the pleasure that accompanies drawing the cork on a big bottle, particularly one you have carefully nurtured from birth to maturity. Many humble wines, properly cellared, gain complexity as the months pass. Cry foul if you wish, but further value can be gleaned from changing social patterns in the post-pandemic world. Staying in is the new going out for some and a next-level take home bottle is likely to cost considerably less than a quickfire round of Martinis. Calling all armchair partygoers out there: double down. Les jeux sont faits, and it’s a winner.

BACKSTAGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON - 1 BOTTLE EACH: RUTHERFORD, COOMBSVILLE, HOWELL MOUNTAIN

$ 305 $ 915

Napa Cabernet Sauvignon styles can vary widely based on site. This fascinating mixed case showcases three distinctive wines from cooler, southerly Coombsville, high altitude Howell Mountain, and the benchlands of Rutherford.

BACKSTAGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, RUTHERFORD, NAPA VALLEY, ENCORE VINEYARD, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

Mid way up the Napa Valley, Rutherford is prized for its diverse soils derived mainly of marine sediments and volcanic deposits. This “Rutherford Dust” is said to give a distinctive tannin structure and ageability to the sub-appellation’s wines. The 2019 Encore Vineyard cuvée is complex and perfumed with ultra-ripe fruit flavours brightened by refreshing eucalyptus and spearmint notes. Bold and tannic on the palate with plenty of depth. 2023-2033.– jb

14%

Ripe blueberry, plum, eucalyptus, cedar

Plum, cassis, spearmint, licorice

Eggplant Parmesan

BACKSTAGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, COOMBSVILLE, NAPA VALLEY, VIBRATO VINEYARD, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

The San Pablo Bay draws marine breezes and overnight fog into Napa’s southern sub-appellations like Coombsville.

The 2019 Vibrato Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon displays these cooling influences with its tangy red and dark fruit, bright acidity and firm yet polished tannins. Finishes with lingering smoky, savoury hints. Cedar and subtle spice notes from ageing in French oak barrels are well integrated. 2023-2033.– jb

14%

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

NAPA VALLEY BACKSTAGE WINERY

The Napa Valley has long been recognized as one of California’s most premium wine producing regions. Located just 75 kilometres northeast of San Francisco, the vineyards are separated from Sonoma and the Pacific Coast by the Mayacamas coastal mountain range.

Backstage Winery handpicks select vineyard sites from across Napa’s sub-appellations to showcase the range of Cabernet and Chardonnay expressions.

Raspberry, plum, tar, cedar

Red and dark fruits, tobacco, savoury

Roast rack of lamb with rosemary, Dijon and balsamic

BACKSTAGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, HOWELL MOUNTAIN, NAPA VALLEY, GREEN ROOM VINEYARD, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

The Green Room vineyard is perched at almost 500 metres in the Howell Mountain sub-appellation of Napa. The shallow, rocky volcanic soils force the vines to dig deep here bringing a lot of concentration and tannic grip to the wines. This 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is firm and full bodied with spicy mineral notes that enhance the black fruit core. Finishes fresh with fine-grained tannins. Decant one hour before serving. 2024-2034.– jb

14%

Cassis, plum, baked cherry, clove

Cassis, plum, mineral & earthy undertones

Roasted Chinese-spiced beef ribs

NAPA IS ICONIC IN THE WORLD, AND BACKSTAGE IS ICONIC IN NAPA!

The Bottle Shop

Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

Sauvignon Blanc

$ WEB

Named after the abandoned house on the property, Menaut Fountain, which M. Perrin discovered after purchasing the property, Château Lafont Menaut is one of Bordeaux’s bestkept secrets. Cool clay and gravel soils and the forgiving climate of the left bank shine through with aromas of waxy fruit and notes of candied lemon developing nicely on the palate. The wine is light with refreshing acidity and a lovely finish that keeps you coming back for another tipple. Drink now. – mp

13%

Candied lemon, waxy fruit, greengage

Tropical fruits and citrus, [0.70]

Seafood salad with scallops and shrimp

With over nine years in the cellar, this joyously rustic Dão showcases pronounced aromatics on the nose with stewed black fruit joined by crunchy tannins and refreshing acidity. The palate is rich, and its agrarian roots are pleasantly set alongside the tannins and acidity. What old-school winemaking ought to be about. Drink now. – mp

$ WEB

This is a new wine from Adega Carvoeira. The Arcadas de Lisboa cuvée is a blend of indigenous varieties Fernão Pires, Seara Nova, and Vital. Appealing aromas and flavours of elderflower, citrus and orchard fruit feature. The palate is medium in body with zesty acidity and a smooth, tangy texture. 2023-2026 –jb

13% Plum, blackberry

Leather, smoked wood, cooked plum

Portuguese carne guisada beef stew

13%

Elderflower, grapefruit, apple, lemon

Lemon, grapefruit, wild herbs, [1.00]

Mild Thai coconut curry

4470 CHÂTEAU LAFONT MENAUT, AOC PESSAC-LÉOGNAN, BLANC, PHILIBERT PERRIN, 2020

4496

CAMPO DA PORTA RESERVA, TINTO, DOC DÃO, CAVES CAMPELO, 2014

Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro

$ WEB

4489 ARCADAS DE LISBOA, BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA, 2022

Fernão Pires, Seara Nova, Vital

4499

COROA VERMELHA BRANCO/ ENCOSTA DO SOBRAL SELECTION BRANCO CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH

$ WEB $ WEB

This mixed case is perfect for adventurous white wine lovers. Both wines are made with grapes native to Portugal and show lively, complex flavours typical of their individual vineyard regions.

This white blend of Arinto, Fernão Pires and Verdelho from the Tejo is crafted in a firm, medium-bodied style. With a little time in glass, bright citrus notes give way to riper stone fruit nuances on the nose and palate. Brisk acidity lifts and elongates the finish. 2023-2026– jb

13.5%

Lemon, grapefruit, nectarine, herbal

Apricot, nectarine, earthy, citrus bitters, [0.70]

Bacalhau à bras

Gouveio Real, Rabigato Códega do Larinho, Malvasia Corada

While the Douro region of northern Portugal is best known for its heady Port wines and bold reds, its white wines are increasingly drawing rave reviews. This 2021 cuvée is a fine case in point. Aromatic and bold with vibrant crisp acidity and refreshing bitters on the finish. Try decanting half an hour before serving to allow the wine to open further. 2023-2026–jb

12.5%

Grapefruit, guava, asparagus, smoky hints

Lemon, grapefruit, passionfruit, guava, [0.70]

Leek quiche with chives

ENCOSTA DO SOBRAL SELECTION BRANCO, VINHO REGIONAL TEJO, 2022

Arinto Fernão, Pires, Verdelho

COROA VERMELHA, BRANCO, DOC DOURO, 2021

Popup! WEB

Meet Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

Germany’s most awarded winemaker

In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!

Only at Opimian.ca beginning February 27.

LIMITED TIME – LIMITED QUANTITIES – WEB ONLY

300-2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8 OPIMIAN.CA