Josh Beach with his own Rye 51 in the field of grain he uses to make it.
THE SPIRIT OF OPIMIAN
AB
CELLAR 299 ORDER SEPT 20 – OCT 24, 2022 OPIMIAN.CACANADA&ITALY
DELIVERY SPRING 2023
This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned. –lw
HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY
Opimian Members now have exclusive access to Master Distiller Josh Beach’s Canadian spirit portfolio Harris Beach. Throughout his career, whisky lovers have asked Josh Beach, “How much rye is in Canadian rye?” Many people don’t realize that even though rye is synonymous with Canadian whisky, regulations do not require any rye in the blend. Josh has answered the call for rye by taking Canadian whisky to the next level with the launch of Harris Beach Rye 51.
REFINED, POLISHED,
VERSATILE $60 / 750ml $60 / CASE OF 1
Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel, allspice 45% Straight or in classic cocktails
— NEW — LOT 3689
Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie
Whisky
LOUISE WILSON MW lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine based in Canada. She has over 20 years of experience in the wine and spirits industry and is Opimian's Senior Procurement & Category Manager.
By Louise Wilson MW
4 PRODUCERS'
CELLAR 299 — PRODUCERS' CORNER
Harris Beach Spirits, the much-anticipated range from Master Distiller Josh Beach, is available solely through Opimian. Josh’s dream was to create a club where passionate Whisky lovers could come together to experience their favourite spirit in ways that they had never done before. We are thrilled to announce that the Harris Beach Cask Club is now open exclusively to Opimian Members.
WelcomeCORNERto the Harris Beach Cask Club
At the time of writing, the grain destined for Josh Beach’s 100% Rye Canadian Whisky is waist high, blowing in the summer breezes on the farmland that surrounds the future site of the Harris Beach Distillery in Creemore. While the scenery is idyllic, Beach’s decision to source grain from this region was not based on esthetics. The colder temperatures of Northern Ontario stress the Rye during the growing season, allowing it to acquire more spice and flavour. But before we talk about what is coming for the award-winning Master Distiller, let’s take a look at the remarkable journey that brought Josh to this point.
In the first year, in addition to a signed 750ml bottle of the Harris Beach Rye 51 Canadian Whisky, and a complimentary one-year 50th Anniversary Opimian Membership, Club Members will receive a 200-ml sample of the Harris Beach 100% Rye unaged spirit.
— CELLAR 299 PRODUCERS' CORNER 5
Whisky insiders through its evolution. This event will be repeated in year three with the now 2-year-old spirit. Finally, in year four, the showstopper – each Member of the Cask Club will receive six 750ml bottles of Harris Beach 100% Rye Canadian Whisky and an invitation to a final tasting with Josh.
$500
And this is just the beginning. Josh’s creativity and passion for crafting fine spirits is boundless. Loyalty will be rewarded. Charter Members of the initial Harris Beach Cask Club and those who make the waiting list will have early bird access to Josh’s upcoming releases and the first opportunity to join future clubs. Slàinte mhath!
Harris Beach 100% Rye Whisky Year Two
Harris Beach 100% Rye Canadian Whisky
Taste your whisky as it evolves into a Classic
The Brewing and Distilling Master’s Program at the Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh, Scotland, is considered one of the best in the world. This is where Josh learned the technical and practical aspects of brewing and distilling. This was also the perfect environment to explore and experience the world of Scotch firsthand. Josh’s passion for Whisky was ignited.
Upon graduating with his MSc, Josh honed his craft by taking on a variety of roles with several breweries and distilleries around the world. These opportunities took Josh to four continents, working for producers in countries as far-ranging as Canada, Namibia, Isreal, Ireland, England, Scotland and Germany. Then it was time for Ontario-born Josh to return to Canada. He co-founded the Odd Society small-batch craft distillery in Vancouver before he launched the spirits programs at Wayne Gretzky Estates, Georgian Bay and Spirit of Niagara. While Josh recognized that the experience he gained from each placement contributed to the expertise he has today, he always knew he was working toward creating his own spirits portfolio.
The name Harris Beach represents the Beach family tradition of incorporating their mother’s maiden name, Harris, in those of the children. Josh and his wife Kristen have upheld this treasured custom by choosing Harris for their own son’s middle name as well as for the name for their distillery.
LOT 3690
1 year Opimian Membership (extension for current Members)
CASK CLUB
Harris Beach Rye 51 Canadian Whisky
YEAR ONE
YEAR TWO
YEAR FOUR
Harris Beach 100% Rye Whisky Year One YEAR THREE
Harris Beach 100% Rye Whisky Unaged Spirit
Due to the small batch nature of production, membership to the club is very limited but the lucky few that secure their spot will go on a four-year journey with Josh as he crafts his next release - the Harris Beach 100% Rye Canadian Whisky. Most Members will have never had the opportunity to taste a Whisky before it goes into cask and Josh will be on hand to guide you through the experience with an online/in-person tasting. During the event, Josh will share fascinating insights such as how distillation proof is as important as the blend of grains in the final taste of a Whisky and the fact that Canadian Whisky must be aged in barrel for a minimum of three years prior to release. In the second year, Members of the Cask Club will get to enjoy another 200-ml sample of the Harris Beach Rye after it has spent one year in barrel. Again, Josh will guide the club of
Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors
C299 marks the end of the 2022 Cellar Season. What a season it has been! CELLAR 299 — EDITORIAL OPIMIAN SUGGESTS P7 COUPS DE COEUR P9 PEARL MORISSETTE P10 CELLAR UP! P12 SICILY P14 Eudes P15 Cortese P18 The Wine People P21 Colpasso P22 Saraja P24 TOP VALUE WINES P28 PIEDMONT P32 Cabutto P33 Aresca P34 Truffle Hunter P38 Malvirà P41 Gavi P42 Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi P43 Cantina Clavesana P47 Tenute Neirano P48 La Morandina P50 Tenuta Santa Caterina P51 COLLECTOR’S CORNER WINES P52 COLLECTOR’S CORNER SPIRITS P54
On the producer side, we have made a concerted effort to strengthen those relationships. We are getting to know our partners in a much deeper way than in the past and they are discovering how passionate Opimian Members like you are about wine. That is why you are seeing so many exclusive offerings. Whether it's a Chardonnay made just for us (Pearl Morissette - page 11), or older, special vintages of iconic wines (Malvira' Barolo as Web Pop-up), it demonstrates a level of trust and admiration that these can be offered to you.
In another first, you'll see that it is whisky that is featured inside the front cover. We are honoured to have been chosen as the exclusive distributor of Harris Beach Whisky in Canada. Not only has Josh Beach created this fabulous spirit, he has partnered with us to introduce the 'Cask Club'. You have the opportunity to experience the evolution of a Canadian Whisky from its creation to its ultimate maturity. We're pretty sure that is a first as well!
This has not been without its challenges. Global supply chain issues continue to make getting your wines to you slower than we would like. The cost of everything is rising quickly. We are doing everything we can to mitigate the effect but some increases will be necessary.
EDITORIAL
Thank a Great Season!
There is everything you need within these pages to finish out the season with a bang. Italy has always been one of your favourites. You'll find many ways to keep that love affair going. Cheers!
6
We have continued to find you new and interesting wines and spirits while bringing back those that you cherish. By their very essence, wines and spirits are ever-changing and, as a result, so are the wonders created and available from around the world.
As we have begun to travel both Canada and the world, we have heard from Members and producers alike how much they appreciate the evolution of this Cellar magazine and Opimian in general. This sentiment is evident in the swell of engagement that we have seen from the Membership. Virtual events (thanks COVID) continue to be well attended. The new 'Web Pop-up' and 'Feature Wine' concepts have been incredibly successful.
Greg and Michael
You for
MANAGING DIRECTOR GREG RINEHART
Greg's wine style gravitates towards less serious styled rosés and whites. He believes that all events should start with a glass of bubbly! However, when done right, there is no better red grape for producing lighterbodied wines of elegance and complexity than Pinot Noir.
Michael has level 3 training from WSET. Before discovering more about wine through training, he only drank heavy reds. While those are still favourites, his palate pleasers now include the full spectrum with dessert/ fortified wines edging toward the top of his list. The expanded selection of Beaujolais has him looking to add fantastic lighter reds to his collection.
MANAGING MICHAELDIRECTORLUTZMANN
7— CELLAR 299 OPIMIAN SUGGESTS
SANT'ONORATA 1953 DOC LUGANA NUNZIO GHIRALDI, 2019, LOT 3696, P31 MONFERACE DOC GRIGNOLINO D'ASTI, 2017, LOT 3754, P51 CORTESE BOSCOPIANO IGP TERRE SICILIANE, 2019, LOT 3711, P20 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021, LOT 3678, P11 MALVIRÀ BAROLO BOIOLO VERTICAL TASTING CASE, LOT 3685, WEB POP-UP HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB, LOT 3690, P5
OPIMIAN SUGGESTS PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR
OUR
Igor Ryjenkov MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential.
8
The Treasure Hunt
CELLAR 299 — MASTER PIECE
MASTER PIECE
Historically – and today – each region has had its own traditions and cultural context which extend to food and wine. The locals are fiercely loyal to their cuisine – and their grapes. Thus, Abruzzo relies on its hearty Montepulciano grape to make deeply coloured, black-fruited great value reds. Verdicchio, Marche’s ace white grape, makes wines with quince, almond and citrus notes and with good acidity and weight. The white Glera grape, shared by Veneto and Friuli, is responsible for the tank-fermented, Asian pear-scented super-popular sparkling Prosecco. Let’s go in for a closer look at some more highlights.
Italy is the top world wine producer and relies on its native grapes to accomplish that. Paradoxically, very few Italian grapes are planted or excel elsewhere, making the country the treasure-trove of unique grapes and wines.
In hot and arid Sicily, the grape-growing flourishes largely thanks to the well-adapted local grapes and the higher elevations, such as provided by Mount Etna. The Etna Rosso DOC reds, based on Nerello Mascalese alone or blended with Nerello Capuccio, show a mineral streak and surprising freshness with floral, herbal and red fruit notes. The Etna Bianco DOC could be either entirely or mostly Carricante with two Catarrattos – Bianco Commune or Lucido rounding the blend. The wines have fresh acidity with citrus, minerality, floral and smoky notes yet are fleshy and rich. The red Nero d’Avola and white Grillo are but two of other many grapes of interest. Nero makes a deep-coloured, well-structured red with plum, cedar, herbs and minerally notes. Grillo keeps its acidity well and is fresh and citric. But it is the Etna wines that are undisputedly the up-and-comers of Sicily and, arguably, the entire country.
Toronto-based IGOR RYJENKOV MW 's wine business expertise has been informed by 24 years with the LCBO, and by developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix.
COUPS DE COEUR CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES
NOI VIGNAIOLI DOCG,SUPERIORE,BARBERAPIEMONTESID'ASTI2020. LOT 3750, P45
SABUCI CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO DOCG ORGANIC WINE, 2020, LOT 3708, EUDES PICCOLO BIANCO DOC BIANCO,ETNA2019, LOT 3691, P15 LE COLLINEMURATE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO DOCG,D'ABRUZZO2020, LOT 3694,
Exceptionally,P27
CELLARING
the island of Sardinia shares its key local red grape with France and Spain: Cannonau is none other than Grenache/Garnacha, yet there are some good arguments for its Sardinian and not mainland Spanish provenance. Cannonau di Sardegna DOC usually has deep but not opaque colour, medium tannin and body, mineral, floral and balsamic notes, and preserved dark fruit and berries. The main white grape and wine in Sardinia is Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, another ancient grape with disputed provenance and presence in most of southern Europe. These wines can range from light to full, with moderate acidity, a nice round mouthfeel, a saline note and flavours from citrus and flowers to tropical fruit elements. But both reds and whites are very distinctly Sardinian. In Piedmont, regal Nebbiolo casts a long shadow, but the region has a number of other interesting grapes. The lemony, fresh white wines rely on local Cortese (in Gavi DOC) and Arneis. The red Grignolino and Freisa make crisp, light, sometimes frizzante, early-drinking wines to pair with savoury salumi. A tier up, Dolcetto makes deeply coloured, mid-weight wine with plush tannins that’s lovely early and, if well made, can age. Barbera is more structured with more acidity, if lighter coloured and makes red- and dark-fruited reds ranging from accessible to serious examples meant for cellaring. Both grapes make
EVERYDAY DRINKING POTENTIAL
We have just scratched the surface, as there are many more finds even in the regions we visited here, let alone those we missed. So do not wait, dive in and start discovering or re-discovering the treasure trove that Italy is – there is so much to explore, and so little time.
9— CELLAR 299 COUPS DE COEUR
CORTESE
THIS
appearance as d’Asti or d’Alba e.g. Barbera d’Asti DOCG, or in blends in other DOCs, like Langhe. And finally, Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s top-notch grape and one of the crown jewels of Italian and global winedom. It also can be found as Langhe, or d’Alba/d’Asti designation, in blends or alone, but it truly shines in Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs. Late-ripening and finicky, it gives the wines medium to deep colour with the aromas traditionally described as “tar and roses”, which can also be interpreted as new leather, camphor or mint, hibiscus flowers and cornelian cherry. It usually has fresh acidity, ripe yet firm tannins and a medium to full body. The modern examples of more structured Barolo and more airy Barbaresco are enjoyable young, but many reward extended cellaring with the savoury underbrush, mushroom and fruit preserve elements and softened tannins. The best of these wines truly belong to the pantheon of the best in the world.
Visionary François Morissette doesn’t make a particular style of wine: he creates wines that reflect where and when they were made. Each wine is unique, synthesizing the influence of the vineyard, the vine and the vintage. Morissette studied enology at the University of Dijon and honed his craft at some of the top vineyards in Burgundy. He sees himself as more of a guide than a fixer in the winemaking process. Practicing the philosophy of minimal intervention requires restraint. It takes confidence that the fruit is pristine. It is impossible to make great wine from less.
photo — The Restaurant at Pearl Morissette (RPM) — rated one of Canada's Best Restaurants.
10
Located in southern Ontario’s Niagara region, Pearl Morissette is not only known for their world class wine: Restaurant Pearl Morissette was named Canada’s best in 2018 and continues to be recognized as one of the top culinary experiences in the country. If you are lucky enough to secure a reservation, you will experience the ever-changing menu that highlights the locally grown, raised and foraged delicacies that the region offers.
CANADA
CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA
MorissettePearl
NIAGARA
Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon 6°C Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00] 11.5%
12%
2022-2028,M7D8
3678 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021 Chardonnay $ 37 $ 222 NEW 3679 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS VA-ET-VIENT RIESLING VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2018 Riesling $ 37 $ 222 NEW
A slight petrol note can be found in some of the world’s best Rieslings as they evolve in cellar. It offsets the primary fruit flavours adding intrigue. The 2018 Pearl Morissette Va-et-Vient is simultaneously fruity and savoury, waxy and honeyed, smoky and steely. An arrow of acidity pierces the mid palate making this an excellent wine for food pairing. This is not a conventional Riesling. Curious? lw
2022-2025,M9D10
Pan-seared red snapper with lime, jalapeno and charred pepper salsa
11
— CANADA PEARL MORISSETTE
photo — François Morissette has been called a visionary. In fact, he sees himself as a guide.
Golden apple, melon, beeswax, honey, petrol 6°C Peach, mineral,cantaloupe,apricot,honey,[2.00]
Salmon cakes with lemon aioli and a fresh greens salad
The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in the glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! lw
Created exclusively for Opimian, Francois Morissette has captured the essence of Cool Climate Chardonnay in a bottle. The remarkable depth of the flavour profile is delicious now and can also be cellared for added maturity.
SPARKLING
MEDIUM-BODIED WHITE
ROSÉ
NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBERA, DOC PIEMONTE, 2021, LOT 3747, P43
WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR
...AND FOR YOUR BAR Grappa
Seafood such as oysters, scallops, sashimi, or salads with mild vinaigrettes
MEDIUM- BODIED RED
Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck
CABUTTO TENUTA LA VOLTA BAROLO, DOCG, 20181, LOT 3697, P33XW
MALVIRÀ GRAPPA CASE, LOT 3684, P54
LA MORANDINA MOSCATO D'ASTI DOCG, CANELLI, 2021, LOT 3703, P50
FULL- BODIED RED
12 CELLAR 299 — CELLAR UP!
Sweet (in a good way), low in alcohol, and surging in popularity, this lovely sparkler will delight you and your friends for dessert but also as a sipper on it's own.
Barbera may be Italy's best kept secret. This food-loving wine is essential in any cellar. Its medium body and acidity makes it great any night of the week with a wide variety of dishes.
Here we provide you with suggestions that will diversify your wine collection with icons. Barolo needs no introduction but you may not be as familiar with Barbera. Some of each will go a long way toward that balanced cellar we talk about in this feature. As you will have noticed, we have started bringing Canadian wines back to the Opimian offerings. As Canadian vines mature and the winemaking culture flourishes, the result has become more impressive indeed.
As the world's largest producer of wine, Italy has spent the last 3,000 years perfecting the process. They have done well. From the most famous (and delicious) Barolo to the light sparkles of a Moscato d'Asti, Italian wines have something for every palate.
Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert
Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance
COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021, LOT 3678, P11
PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS
Managing Directors Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart visited Cabutto this year. They discovered what makes this wine one of the best expressions of Barolo our Masters of Wine have ever tasted. Superior fruit and passionate winemaking.
CELLAR UP!
Can you say aromatic? This well-balanced, dry rosé is bursting with red fruit, lavender and peppermint. You'll find more fruit on the palate of this refreshing crowd pleaser.
SARAJA ISTADE ISOLA DEI NURAGHI IGT ROSATO, 2021, LOT 3726, P25
If you know Grappa, this set of three unique versions is a real treat. Each has a flavour profile that reflects its varietal of origin. If you don't know Grappa, this is the perfect place to start. At the top!
Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles
Blackberry, plum,
Merlot $ 94 $ 94
Smoky black fruit, earth,
herb 18°C
Smoky plum, black cherry,
BENCH, 2019
2022-2032,M8D9
lw 2022-2028,M9D10
Black cherry, plum, blackcurrant,
Roasted vegetable lasagna
mint 18°C
mint 11.5%
A classic full-bodied Meritage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The bouquet references smoky black fruit and freshly turned earth with a pop of mint. There is a marked depth to the palate with a profile of ripe blackberry, plum and mint. Polished tannins and juicy acidity provide a framework to allow this wine to unfold in the cellar for many years to come.
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
— CANADA PEARL MORISSETTE 13
VINEYARDS VA-ET-VIENT VQA TWENTY
The 2019 Pearl Morissette Le Feu is a great example of how well Niagara does with Cabernet Franc. Its deep ruby hue reveals a bouquet of smoky plum and black cherry aromas intermingled with a slight herbal lift. The palate is ripe with flavours of black cherry, plum, blackcurrant and mint. The fruit is framed by refreshing acidity and velvety well-integrated tannin. lw
mint 13.5%
Smoked Gouda MORISSETTE NIAGARA MILE
3680 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS LE FEU VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2019 Cabernet Franc $ 53 $ 159 3681 PEARL
SICILY ITALY photo — The volcanic soils of Mount Etna.14 CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA
Years3,000 Winemakingof
Sicily's wines reflect a synergy between time-proven traditions and modern advances. The 100,000-plus hectares of vineyards are planted with a mix of unique local vines and internationally recognized varieties. The wines of Sicilia DOC and IGP Terre Siciliane are produced across the island lead by Grillo and Lucidio (Catarratto) for white and Nero d’Avola and Frappato for red wines. The vines grown on the volcanic soils of Etna DOC, an appellation on Sicily’s east coast, produce wine that is revered for its enticing minerality. Here the star varieties of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese are recognized for their ability to make world class wine. The island’s sole DOCG (the highest classification permitted in Italy) Cerasuolo di Vittoria is produced from a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato which must be aged for 8 months before release.
Citrus, red apple, freshly baked bread 6°C Citrus, red apple, freshly baked bread, [2.40]
— SICILY EUDES 15
Strawberry, cherry, plum, mineral
The 2019 Eudes Bianco di Monte has a regal gold hue and an elegant bouquet with aromas of white flowers, mineral, citrus and red apple. The wine is generous on the palate with flavours of lemon, grapefruit, and mineral. Maturing for 15 months on fine lees adds a richness to the mouthfeel. lw
People often tell me what they are drinking, and these days I am hearing Nerello Mascalese a lot. If you haven’t come across this variety yet, I encourage you to try it, particularly if you love Pinot Noir. Aromas leap from the glass with a flurry of raspberry, cranberry, plum, cherry and tea notes. It is fruity, floral and mineral driven. The palate overflows with layers of strawberry, cherry, plum and mineral. An exciting wine. lw
Lemon, mineral,grapefruit,lees,[2.40]
Mushroom risotto with
Carricante, the star white grape of Etna is required to make up 60% of the blend in the Etna Bianco DOC. Great wines have balance, complexity, concentration and a generous length. The 2019 Eudes Piccolo Bianco ticks all the boxes. It is an elegant wine, reminiscent of white Burgundy, with layers of citrus, red apple and freshly baked bread adorning both the nose and palate. lw
Raspberry, rose, cranberry plum, tea, cherry, mineral
xx%
2022-2030,M7D8
3693 NerelloDOCMILLEOTTOCENTOQUARANTAEUDESETNAROSSO,2018Mascalese $ 58 $ 174 NEW 3692 EUDES BIANCO DI MONTE DOC ETNA BIANCO, 2019 Carricante $ 58 $ 174 NEW 3691 EUDES PICCOLO BIANCO DOC ETNA BIANCO, 2019 Carricante $ 34 $ 102 NEW
EUDES
Floral, mineral, citrus, red apple
13.5%
18°C
Grilled herbed fish skewers with citrus
2022-2027,M8D9
Seafood pasta
2022-2028,M8D9
Following his dream, Messina crafts tiny lots of wine from hand-harvested indigenous varieties grown in the Etna appellation on Sicily's east coast. Here the soil is sandy, volcanic and rich in minerals. The low-intervention winemaking philosophy at Eudes allows the terroir to speak through the wines.
6°C
13.5%
peas photo — Harvest time at Eudes.
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT BEING A WINEMAKER?
Since the age of five, I accompanied my father to our property on Monte Gorna. I walked around the land with my dogs and enjoyed playing where the sheep grazed. I have a very strong bond with this place. Growing up, I increasingly felt the need to recover portions of the property where there was a small ancient vineyard, and after my university studies I dedicated body and soul to a total recovery project that I am still carrying out with the new plants.
16
Q&A Giovanni Messina Eudes
TELL US ABOUT YOUR MILLEOTTOCENTOQUARANTAEUDES DOC ETNA ROSSO?
Being a wine producer for me is like being the father of a land: you have to recognize the need to give lots of care, lots of attention to your vines, managing them in the best possible way to get the best results, and, if necessary, lowering the yield so as not to overload. Taking care of your land, loving it as if it were alive, best represents our philosophy. We maintain this passion and love throughout the year, and it shows in the final product.
Producing wine on Etna is something unique. It gives you the opportunity to enjoy a land that nourishes its fruits to great effect: our grapes are rich in mineral salts present in the soil, from this magnificent volcanic area that we have worked so hard to cultivate. It is not for nothing that our viticulture is defined as "heroic": since ancient times we have tried to make the most of this steep lava territory, building dry stone walls where necessary, terracing to build on what nature has provided (and how it has provided!). Our seaward exposure allows us to enjoy maritime winds, even at 800 metres, which gives all our wines a particularly unique flavour.
HOW DID YOU GET STARTED IN THE WINE BUSINESS?
WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT WINEMAKING IN SICILY, ON THE SLOPES OF THE ETNA VOLCANO?
WHAT IS ONE OF YOUR FAVOURITE VARIETALS TO WORK WITH AND WHY?
Giovanni Messina and Laura Torrisi make tiny lots of wine from hand-harvested indigenous varieties grown in the Etna appellation on Sicily’s east coast. They hope to transfer their passion for winemaking to their daughters Alice and Greta.
Those who know me know very well that I love Carricante, a white grape variety typical of Etna. I call it the "prince of Etna whites". I am convinced that it is a special variety because if it is vinified in a respectful way, letting it express itself over time, it has a truly magnificent aging potential.
WHAT IS ONE OF THE HARDEST THINGS ABOUT WINEMAKING YEAR IN AND YEAR OUT?
Each harvest is a puzzle, especially on Etna – you never know what can happen. From scorching heat, sudden rain can occur that endangers a year's work. Or worse, a hailstorm can destroy everything you've done up to that point. In my opinion, certainly every vintage is different from the other, with unique characteristics.
I literally fell in love with this vineyard in 2017 after I took it over from an elderly man. The work is done entirely by hand, as mechanization is impossible. The plantings are a majority of Nerello Mascalese, with a small amount of Nerello Cappuccio. I consider myself a keeper of this territory, and as such I will do everything to keep it at its best. The name "Milleottocentoquaranta" (1840) derives from the year the vines were planted – it’s an ancient, ungrafted vineyard that quietly commands respect.
READ OURONLINEABOUTMOREEUDESONBLOG.
CELLAR 299 — Q&A EUDES MILLEOTTOCENTOQUARANTADOCETNAROSSO,2018,LOT3693,P15
14. Stir and test occasionally.
13. Continue cooking until chicken is tender and vegetables are cooked.
3-4 lbs boneless chicken, mix of legs and thighs
8 oz (227 g) crimini mushrooms
11. Remove lid and increase temperature to 375°F.
1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tbsp capers
Our very own Managing Director, Greg Rinehart, shares this recipe handed down in his uncle’s family since they emigrated to Canada in the 1920s. “Great-Grandma Figliola” was born in a small Sicilian village where she perfected her Chicken Cacciatore recipe.
— CELLAR 299 FOOD 17
10. Cover and bake in oven for 30 minutes.
Sea salt, pepper, chili flakes to taste Canola or vegetable oil for frying chicken parts in
1/2 cup (125 ml) white wine
1/2 cup pitted green and black olives
FOOD
Ingredients
7. Place browned chicken in large roasting pan, cover with crushed tomatoes.
Instructions
Chicken Cacciatore alla Figliola
• 1 (28oz) can San Marzano tomatoes and juice, tomatoes crushed by hand
• 1 or 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 sweet onion, thinly sliced
15. Serve with pasta or rice.
1 green pepper, sliced in 1/2 inch strips
• About 1/2 cup of corn starch for dredging
5. Cook skin side down until skin is golden, about 5 minutes.
9. Add in sliced onions, drizzle with a little olive oil.
COLPASSO GRILLO DOC SICILIA APPASSIMENTO, 2021, LOT 3716, P23
12. Stir, and add peppers and mushrooms; drizzle with a little more olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. You may want to add a little more wine at this point.
4. In large skillet, heat vegetable oil, add 1-2 tablespoons olive oil for flavour, and brown chicken.
• 1 red or yellow pepper, sliced in 1/2 inch strips
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
6. Turn and continue cooking all sides, 2-3 minutes each side.
2. Clean and pat chicken dry and remove skin if desired.
8. Mix in olives, capers, oregano, chili flakes and wine.
3. Season chicken pieces generously with salt and pepper. Dredge chicken in corn starch, coating each piece lightly, and tap off any excess starch.
An instantly likeable wine that displays deliversAnotherleesMaturationarelemon,peach,magnolia.apricot,reminiscentexpressiveaciditycharacteristicCarricante’srefreshingandminerality.Thearomaticsareofwhitepeach,lime,grapefruitandFlavoursofgrilledwhitegrapefruit,limeandminerallayeredonthepalate.forfivemonthsonaddsdepthandtexture.winethatover-fromCortese.
peach 6°C
Made from a blend of handharvested Catarrato and Grillo. Fermentation on the skins in 30-hectalitre oak botti in addition to seven months aging on lees adds texture. Aromas of fresh peach, apple and lemon precede flavors of apple, peach and cantaloupe with an intriguing minerality on the finish. lw
White peach, apricot, lime, magnoliagrapefruit, 6°C
with
Braised artichokes tomato melon, pear,
Made from Catarratto-Lucido the rare, high-quality clone of Catarratto. Aromatics of lime, melon, pear and peach are followed by a lively palate of peach, green apple, pear and white grapefruit flavours. On the finish a hint of minerality adds complexity. With zingy fruit and crisp acidity, consider as an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. lw
lw
2022-2025,M9D9
Peach, green apple, pear, white grapefruit, [1.00]
Located on the island of Sicily, in the Mediterranean Sea, Cortese produces award-winning wines from the region’s indigenous grape varieties. At the winery, traditional techniques such as fermentation in terracotta vessels are combined with modern winemaking to achieve the highest-quality results. The Cortese vineyards are managed with the use of all natural fertilizers; however, the philosophy of proprietors Stefano and Marina Girelli extends beyond organic viticulture, embracing the pillars of sustainability. The family sees the vineyard as part of the larger ecosystem with the low-intervention wines they produce reflecting the vineyards in which they were grown.
mineral,
CORTESE
18
12.5% Pappardelle with shrimp, pistachio and ricotta 2022-2024,M9D9 Peach, apple, lemon 6°C Apple, [1.00]cantaloupe,peach,mineral, 13.5% Mista salad CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3705 CORTESE NOSTRU CATARRATTOLUCIDO IGP TERRE SICILIANE ORGANIC WINE, 2021 Catarratto Lucido $ 20 $ 120 3706 CORTESE VANEDDA BIANCO IGP TERRE SICILIANE, 2020 Catarratto, Grillo $ 27 $ 162 NEW 3704 CORTESE NOSTRU CARRICANTE IGP TERRE SICILIANE ORGANIC WINE, Carricante2021 $ 19 $ 114 NEW LOWER PRICE
and grilled lemon 2022-2025,M9D9 Lime,
Grilled peach, white grapefruit, lemon, lime, mineral, [1.00]
12.5%
2022-2027,M7D8
photo
— SICILY CORTESE 19
— Cortese's Marina & Stefano Girelli with their families. 3707 CORTESE SENIA NERO D'AVOLA DOC SICILIA ORGANIC WINE, 2020 Nero d'Avola $ 27 $ 162 3708 CORTESE SABUCI CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO DOCG ORGANIC WINE, 2020 Nero d'Avola $ 27 $ 162
An intriguing wine with layers of cherry, plum, rose, clove and nutmeg in harmony on both the nose and palate. It is made from a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato, both indigenous varieties of Sicily. Firm finegrained tannin and lively acidity support the fruit core with an alignment that indicates this wine will continue to age in cellar for several years. lw
2022-2028,M8D9
Moroccan lamb tagine
Sandalwood, nutmeg, clove, red berry 18°C
Cherry, plum, rose, clove, nutmeg 18°C
Cherry, plum, rose, clove, nutmeg 14.5%
Sandalwood, clove, nutmeg, red currant, herb 14.5%
Onion-braised beef with roasted potatoes
Made with care. From hand-harvested fruit to meticulous cap management during fermentation, gentle handling throughout the winemaking process has paid off. The Cortese Senia Nero d'Avola presents very expressive aromas of sandalwood, nutmeg, clove and red berry. The palate mirrors the spicy red-fruit nose finishing with an herbal twist. lw
20
A stunning wine. The elegant bouquet is layered with scents of rose, strawberry and cherry kissed with the essence of nutmeg and clove. Flavours on the palate echo the aromas and taper into a wildly long finish. Every aspect of this wine is in perfect harmony and seamlessly integrated. The 2019 Cortese Boscopiano is immediately charming but also prepared for a long-term relationship.
Great value! The ruby purple hue reveals scents of smoky plum, freshly turned earth and violet. The palate is concentrated with ripe berry fruit flavours and an underlying mineral note. The palate is more juicy than tannic, with all elements of the wine in sync. Enjoy with family and friends and introduce them to the grape variety that has people talking. lw
lw 2022-2032,M7D9 Rose, cherry,strawberry,spice 18°C Rose, cherry,strawberry,spice 13.5% Winter caponata 2022-2028,M9D9 Smoky plum, earth, violet 18°C Blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, mineral 13.5% Linguine with polpette di sarde CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA CORTESE BOSCOPIANO FRAPPETO IGP TERRE SICILLIANEFrappato 3710 $ 67 $ 201 3711 $ 96 $ 96 NEW 3709 CORTESE NOSTRU NERELLO MASCALESE IGP TERRE SICILIANE ORGANIC WINE, 2021 Nerello Mascalese $ 19 $ 114 NEW LOWER PRICE
A full-bodied blend of Nero d'Avola and Shiraz grown in the southwest of Sicily. The grapes are fermented without crushing to enhance the wine’s fruity style. Delicate strawberry and blueberry aromas lead to flavours reminiscent of cranberry, strawberry and raspberry. The wellmannered tannins make this wine an approachable crowd pleaser. lw
— SICILY THE WINE PEOPLE THE PEOPLEWINE 21
Organic and vegan friendly, the 2021 Fedele Rosso is made from a blend of Nero d'Avola, Merlot and Syrah grown in Sicily’s Trapani hills. It is fruity and floral with a compelling backbone of acidity. This full-bodied red offers a cheerful bouquet of cherry, strawberry and rose scents. The juicy palate delivers concentrated flavours of blackberry, plum and cassis. Fantastic value! lw
2022-2024,M9D9
Venison stew
Strawberry, blueberry 18°C
Cranberry, strawberry, raspberry 13.5%
Rosemary-garlic grilled lamb chops
photo — Peter Kostten & Stefano Girelli are not only founders of The Wine People, but friends and partners in wine.
3712 FEDELE ROSSO IGP TERRE SICILIANE ORGANIC, 2021 Nero d'Avola, Merlot, Syrah $ 17 $ 102 3713 DENATILE NERO D'AVOLA SHIRAZ, DOC SICILIA, 2021 Nero d'Avola, Shiraz $ 13 $ 156
Blackberry, plum and cassis 13.5%
2022-2024,M9D9
Cherry, strawberry, rose 18°C
Made from hand-harvested Grillo grapes grown in the Marsala region of western Sicily. A fresh and fruity wine with notes of green apple, lemon, lime and blossom. For those who love a chilled glass of Italian Pinot Grigio, this is a wine to explore. lw
apple, lemon, lime, blossom, [3.70] 13% Casarecce with basil pesto 2022-2024,M9D9 Red berry, leather, rose, plum 18°C Raspberry, strawberry, cherry 14% Grilled veal involtini top photo — Mediterranean aperitivo. COLPASSO CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3714 COLPASSO GRILLO DOC SICILIA, 2021Grillo $ 18 $ 108 3715 COLPASSO NERO D'AVOLA DOC SICILIA, 2021 Nero d'Avola $ 16 $ 96 NEW LOWER PRICE
apple, lemon, lime, blossom 6°C
22
Green
lw 2022-2024,M9D9
Green
A portion of the grapes used to make Colpasso Nero d'Avola are dried via appassimento while the remainder are vinified traditionally. The blending of these two winemaking techniques brings added depth and flavour to the wine. Scents of red berry, leather, rose and plum welcome a parade of red berry fruit flavours.
6°C
Grilled sirloin balsamic-berry
2022-2024,M9D9
Chicken Cacciatore alla Figliola
13.5%
with
Peach, apricot, lemon, melon, pear
Another delightful wine from Colpasso made via appassimento. Hand-harvested Nero d'Avola grapes loose 30% of their water weight as they dry for three to four weeks. The result is an expressively perfumed bouquet of black cherries jubilee, rose and strawberry with an underlying smoky/earthy note that adds interest. The palate is stuffed with mouthwatering flavours of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate and herb. Great value. lw
Peach, apricot, lemon, melon, pear, [7.00]
rose, smoke,strawberryearth 18°C Raspberry, pomegranate,cherry,herb 14%
Appassimento, the concentrating of flavours by drying the grapes prior to fermentation, is not only for red wines. The 2021 Colpasso Grillo Appassimento illustrates how successful this winemaking technique can be for white wines too. Expressive aromatics of peach, apricot, lemon, melon and pear effortlessly leap from the glass. The palate is generous with flavours that echo the bouquet. Fantastic value. lw
OFCONCENTRATIONTHEEXPERIENCEsauceFLAVOURAPPASSIMENTO.3717 COLPASSO NERO D'AVOLA DOC SICILIA APPASSIMENTO, 2021 Nero d'Avola $ 19 $ 114 3716 COLPASSO GRILLO DOC SICILIA APPASSIMENTO, 2021 Grillo $ 19 $ 114 NEW
— SICILY COLPASSO 23
cherry
Black jubilee,
2022-2025,M9D9
24
SARDEGNA SARAJA
photo — Hand-picking – difficult work but worth the effort.
Saraja is located on breathtaking Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Sustainability is top of mind at the winery, with a focus on the legacy for future generations. Cannonau, Carignano and Vermentino are grown in the island’s unique coastal terroirs amid outcrops of granite, cork and olive trees. Wines are crafted with low intervention –reduced filtration, clarification and sulphur – allowing them to evoke a sense of place. This connection with the environment is captured on the Saraja label as a reminder of this philosophy.
DiversityItalian
With hundreds of distinct regions producing wine from an even greater number of grape varieties, three Opimian Cellars are needed to highlight the incredible diversity of Italy wines. From the warm and inviting reds of Cannonau di Sardegna and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo to the crisp and mineral-driven whites of Lugana, Vermentino di Sardegna and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, this current offer has it allparticularly outstanding value.
CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA
ITALY
The nose of the 2021 Saraja Tarra Noa Vermentino di Sardegna offers youthful citrus and floral aromas with an appealing dash of minerality. Similar flavours carry through on the palate. A crisp, fresh wine with attractive mid-palate weight and texture. Consider as an alternative to Chablis – and pair with a plate of Prince Edward Island’s Malpeque oysters. lw
This elegant and perfumed rosato is made from a blend of Cannonau and Carignano. The pronounced aromatics include notes of mixed red fruits, lavender and peppermint while flavours of strawberry, cherry and candy cane are found on the palate. This wine is balanced and refreshing with a dry finish. lw
2022-2027,M8D9 Strawberry, tea, herb 18°C Raspberry, strawberry, cherry, herb 14% Braised lamb with broad beans 2022-2024,M9D9 Lemon, floral, mineral 6°C Lemon, mineral,grapefruit,whitefloral,[2.00] 14% Malpeque oysters with mignonette 2022-2024,M9D9 Red fruits, peppermintlavender, 6°C Strawberry, cherry, candy cane, [2.00] 12.5% Lobster rolls with chives 3724 SARAJA INKIBI CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC, 2021 Cannonau $ 30 $ 180 3725 SARAJA TARRA NOA VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA DOC, 2021 Vermentino $ 30 $ 180 3726 SARAJA ISTADE ISOLA DEI NURAGHI IGT ROSATO, 2021 Cannonau, Carignano $ 30 $ 180 NEW
Cannonau, also known as Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain, is a generous variety with a full body and bright red fruit flavours. The 2021 Saraja Inkibi Cannonau di Sardegna shows excellent varietal character with fragrant strawberry, tea and herb aromas. Concentrated flavours of wild raspberry, strawberry and cherry are intertwined with an appealing herbal note. A balanced wine with a satisfying finish. lw
— ITALIAN DIVERSITY SARDEGNA 25
LE26 MARCHE
2022-2024,M9D9 Pear, melon, apple, mineral 6°C Peach, pear, apple, citrus, [4.60] 13% Chilled seafood platter CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3727 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO (IN ANFORA), 2021 Verdicchio $ 21 $ 126
From the hills of Castelli di Jesi, this fresh and crisp white wine offers aromas of pear, melon, apple and a hint of mineral. It is light bodied but full of peach, pear, apple and citrus flavours. A perfect aperitif at the beginning of an evening or an ideal match for a chilled seafood platter. lw
— ITALIAN DIVERSITY ABRUZZO ABRUZZO 27
Nicodemi Le Murate Colline Teramane Montepulciano d'Abruzzo offers an inky purple hue and aromas of fragrant black cherry, blackberry and freshly turned earth. The palate echoes the bouquet with earthy black fruit flavours. A firm but approachable wine with an appealing symmetry of fruity and savoury elements. lw
The 2021 PEMO Montepulciano d'Abruzzo invites with a bouquet of strawberry, raspberry, plum, floral and tea aromas. The palate is concentrated with the taste of cranberry, rhubarb, pomegranate and plum. A well-structured wine with zesty acidity and firm tannins. It is easy to see why this wine is a favourite with Opimian Members. lw
Strawberry, raspberry,
plum, floral, tea 18°C Cranberry, pomegranate,rhubarb,plum 13.5% Baked ziti 2027+,2022-M8D8 Black blackberry,cherry,earth 18°C Plum, blackcurrant, earth 13.5% Wagyu beef burgers photo — Celano skyline in Abruzzo. 3718 PEMO MontepulcianoD'ABRUZZO,MONTEPULCIANODOC,2021D'Abruzzo $ 18 $ 108 3694 LE MURATE COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOCG, Montepulciano2020 d'Abruzzo $ 25 $ 150 NEW
2022-2026,M9D9
Elena and brother Alessandro took the helm of the family business in 2000. They produce wine from their estate’s organically-grown grapes in their solar-powered winery.
wine with a
of
lime and lemon. lw 2022-2024,M9D9 White flowers, peach, apple, lemon 6°C White grapefruit, lime, lemon, [4.20] 12.5% Spaghetti con vongole 2022-2024,M9D9 Strawberry, plum, blueberry 18°C Strawberry, cranberry, raspberry 12.5% Barbecued baby back ribs with blueberrybalsamic glaze CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3720 DEA DEL MARE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO, DOC, 2021 Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $ 12 $ 144 3719 DEA DEL MARE CATARRATTOPINOT GRIGIO, IGP TERRE SICILIANE, 2021 Catarrato, Pinot Grigio $ 12 $ 144 NEW LOWER PRICE
28 The 2021 Dea Del Mare Montepulciano d'Abruzzo delivers value with a fresh fruity nose of strawberry, plum and blueberry aromas followed by flavours of strawberry, cranberry and raspberry. Ready to enjoy! lw
Bright aromas white flowers, peach, the first sip. the palate, this is a medium-bodied fresh and fruity Flavours grapefruit,
On
apple and lemon invite
recall white
appeal.
— ITALY TOP VALUE WINES 29
Intense aromas of fresh apples, melons and pear drops, it has a foaming mousse. The palate is light and fruity, with a smooth texture. Some citrus pith on the finish adds length. jm
A delightful baby-pink colour, it has fresh fruits and sherbet aromas. Light and refreshing with a crisp finish.
Summer in a glass! Fresh and bright with aromas and flavours of lemon, white peach, grapefruit, lime and jasmine. Enjoy with or without food. lw 2022-2024,M9D9 Lemon, white peach, grapefruit, lime floral 6°C Lemon, white peach, grapefruit, lime, floral, [4.00] 12.5% Bay scallop ceviche 2022-2024,M8D9 Sherbet, fresh fruits 6°C Red fruits, [1.00] 12% Chili-basil chicken stir-fry 2022-2024,M8D9 Pear drops, fresh apples 6°C Light, fruity, [14.00] 11% Ginger-sesame prawns TOP VALUE WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING 3722 DEA DEL MARE PINOT GRIGIO ROSÉ, DOC DELLE VENEZIE, 2021 Pinot Grigio $ 12 $ 144 3723 DEA DEL MARE PROSECCO DOC EXTRA DRY Glera $ 19 $ 114 3721 DEA DEL MARE PINOT GRIGIO, IGP TERRE SICILIANE, 2021 Pinot Grigio $ 12 $ 144
jm
LOMBARDY
lw 2022-2029,M8D9
Poached
trout with lemon-cream sauce photo — Grapes on the way to the press. Hard to resist! CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3695 IL GRUCCIONE DOC LUGANA NUNZIO GHIRALDI, 2021 Turbiana $ 23 $ 138 NEW
30
Following the lead of his father, Nunzio Ghiraldi planned on a career in law; however, on completion of his studies, he could not resist the attraction of working the land that his grandfather had purchased in 1953. This property is the original 20-hectare Sant'Onorata vineyard located in the cru of Lugana di Sirmione, a region known as the ‘Pearl of Lake Garda’. The acquisition of a nearby 15-hectare plot in 1995 expanded the family holdings. Today both vineyards are exclusively planted with the indigenous variety Turbiana. The estate includes a historic 400-year-old farmhouse which has been converted into a modern cellar. The winery has been specifically designed to vinify exceptional quality wines from this unique white grape variety.
NUNZIO GHIRALDI
Floral,
A crisp, mineral-driven wine to consider as an alternative to Chablis. The pretty floral bouquet showcases notes of citrus and marzipan while a concert of tangy grapefruit, lemon zest and white pepper plays on the palate. The flavours taper off into an exceptional length that takes the experience to the next level.
marzipan, citrus 6°C Grapefruit, lemon, white pepper, mineral [5.20] 13%
Lugana is a white wine region located to the south of Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake. Wines of the region are made almost exclusively from Turbiana, a grape previously thought to be part of the Trebbiano family. Then, for a time, Turbiana was thought to be identical to Verdicchio; however, it has now been confirmed to be its own unique variety. The mouthwatering acidity of Nunzio Ghiraldi’s Sant'Onorata 1953 Lugana makes it a terrific food wine. Play off aromas of mineral and grilled citrus and flavours of lime and white grapefruit by pairing with pan-seared tilapia topped with fresh citrus salsa.
lw2022-2024,M9D9 Grilled citrus, mineral 6°C Lime, white grapefruit 13.5% Pan-seared tilapia with citrus salsa photo — Nunzio Ghiraldi and his father at the family vineyard. 3696 SANT'ONORATA 1953 DOC LUGANA NUNZIO GHIRALDI, 2019 Turbiana $ 35 $ 210 NEW
— ITALIAN DIVERSITY LOMBARDY 31
The beautiful rolling hills of Piedmont are home to Barolo, one of the most coveted wines in the world but the region has many other vinous gems waiting to be discovered. Alternative expressions of Nebbiolo are crafted in Barbaresco and Monferrato, with both appellations capable of producing stunningly elegant and graceful wines. The Piedmontese stage is also shared by other indigenous red varieties such as Freisa, Dolcetto, Barbera and Grignolino. Freisa, a relative of Nebbiolo, shares its capacity to evolve in cellar. Top examples come from the Freisa d'Asti Superiore DOC where the wines must be aged for one year prior to release. With softer tannins, wines from Dolcetto are typically ready to drink sooner than high-tannin Nebbiolo. Dolcetto is grown in several Piedmont regions including the DOCs of Dolcetto di Ovada, Dolcetto d'Alba and Piemonte. The refreshing acidity of Barbera makes these wines ideal for food pairing. Nizza, elevated to DOCG status in 2014 is one to watch for top-notch bottles. Grignolino combines a floral and fruity style with a firm structure and can deliver great value. This is certainly the case of the Grignolino d'Asti on offer in this Cellar. Piedmont is for white wine lovers too with classic wines such as Gavi and Roero Arneis. Additionally, the floral, sparkling Moscato d’Asti and the afterdinner delight Grappa add further to the diverse range.
WineMajesticItaly’sRegion
PIEDMONT ITALY CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA
32
CABUTTO
Meticulous craftmanship goes into the Cabutto Tenuta La Volta Barolo. Long fermentations that can exceed 30 days allow for maximum extraction of colour, flavour and tannins. This is followed by 36 months of maturation in 5,000-litre Slavonian oak botte giving the wine time to integrate and build complexity. The bouquet is filled with the perfume of strawberry, cherry, rose and leather. There is a notable depth of flavour on the palate with notes of cherry, strawberry and mineral which transition into nuances of tea, sage, thyme and fennel in an exceptionally long finish. Mouth-coating tannins play off mouthwatering acidity creating a firm structure that will allow this wine to continue to evolve for decades. lw
33
photo — Osvaldo & Bruno Cabutto in their cellar.
2028-2048,M7D7 Strawberry, cherry, rose, leather. 18°C Cherry, mineral,strawberry,tea,herb 14% Porcini risotto
— PIEDMONT CABUTTO
3697 CABUTTO TENUTA LA VOLTA BAROLO, DOCG, 2018 Nebbiolo $ 44 $ 264
Over a century ago, Domenico Cabutto purchased the land that would become Cabutto Tenuta La Volta from Marquis Gastone di Mirafiori, nephew of the King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II. Today, the estate is led by Domenico’s grandsons, Osvaldo and Bruno Cabutto. The brothers uphold the traditional winemaking practices that made Cabutto one of the most soughtafter names in Barolo. Special care is taken in the vineyard, managing the canopies and yields with leaf plucking and green harvesting. Since 2015, a weather station positioned among the vines informs and optimizes the viticultural effort. Cabutto Barolo sells out vintage after vintage and very little is exported. However, due to Opimian’s history with the winery, we are fortunate to have secured another allocation this year.
34
Aresca 1952 was founded seventy years ago by brothers Luigi and Piero. Three generations later, the family continues to uphold the values of tradition, passion and excellence while committing to innovation and growth. The winery, located in the town of Mombercelli produces wine made exclusively from indigenous varieties grown in the UNESCO World Heritage designated Langhe-Roero and Monferrato Wine District. In the vineyard, sustainable practices such as the promotion of natural cover crops, minimal treatments and hand harvesting are used in the pursuit of crafting highquality wines that reflect the terroir.
Strict regulations such as low yields and minimum time in barrel are applied to the wines of Nizza which was elevated to Italy’s highest status, DOCG, in 2014. A rich and complex bouquet with aromas of sweet black fruits, cherry and vanilla precede a concentrated and wellbalanced palate of black cherry, plum pie and oak spice. The Aresca San Luigi is named for founder Luigi Aresca who was passionate about Barbera’s quality. lw
ARESCA
I love a wine that delivers a new experience and fantastic value. The 2021 Aresca Testa Balorda Grignolino d'Asti does both. Aromas of strawberry, cherry and rose lead to flavours of cherry, cranberry and rhubarb. Mouthwatering acidity and firm tannins that are in parity with the fruit core will support the wine for many years while it blooms in the cellar. lw
2032+,2022-M7D8 Strawberry, cherry, rose 18°C Cherry, rhubarbcranberry, 12.5% Pasta carbonara 2022-2032,M7D9 Sweet black fruits, cherry, vanilla 18°C Black cherry, plum pie, oak spice 14% Penne in a light tomato-cream sauce photo — The Aresca family tradition continues. CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3729 ARESCA TESTA BALORDA GRIGNOLINO D'ASTI DOC, 2021 Grignolino $ 23 $ 138 NEW 3728 ARESCA SAN LUIGI DOCG NIZZA, 2018Barbera $ 36 $ 216 NEW
Cherry dried red
— PIEDMONT ARESCA 35
I have underlined the word smooth in my tasting note for the 2021 Aresca Venere Dolcetto di Ovada. Fruity and floral on the nose with aromas of black cherry and violet. Notes of black cherry continue on the palate. A well-balanced wine with a very satisfying mouthfeel.
lw
lw 2022-2025,M9D9
fruit leather, cured meat, floral 18°C Fresh and
cherry, violet 18°C Black cherry 13% Eggplant Parmesan 2028-2038,M6D7
On the nose, aromas of fresh red berry and cured meat open into notes of cherry fruit leather and rose petal. The palate is beginning to show evolution with both fresh and dried red fruit flavours supported by savoury meaty notes. An excellent choice for those building a cellar, with a pay off that will be worth it for the patient.
fruit, cured meat 14% Slow-braised pork shank with prosciutto and porcini on mashed potatoes 3731 ARESCA COSTARETO BAROLO DOCG, Nebbiolo2018 $ 50 $ 300 NEW 3730 ARESCA VENERE DOLCETTO DI OVADA DOC, 2021 Dolcetto $ 23 $ 138 NEW
Black
NEW MASTERS OF WINE WILL BE INTRODUCED
SPEAKING OF SPIRITS
If 2022 gave us the promise of a ‘new normal’ then surely 2023 will be an exciting and liberating year. Opimian’s 2023 Cellar season will begin with C300 in November. It will mark the beginning of Opimian’s 50th year! That is a milestone that many Clubs never reach, let alone being as vibrant and relevant as we are. Thanks to you, the Members, the Club is healthy, interesting, and an integral part of the Canadian wine industry.
In response to the recent Member Survey, we have already started to offer more spirits while adding to the wine selections as well. The exciting Harris Beach Whiskey rollout in this issue is an excellent example of things to come. Watch for many other opportunities to experience the best the world has to offer.
By the time you read this, C300 will have been tasted by our Senior Manager of Procurement, Louise Wilson MW, and one of our new Masters of Wine, Michael Palij, MW. You will learn all about them and their expertise in the first Cellar of the season. There will be more announcements and introductions as the year progresses. You won’t want to miss how this diversity of talent will enhance our enjoyment of wine and spirits.
Whether you’re already a subscriber, you’ve never subscribed to Founders Choice or The Masters Case, or you haven’t been in the program for awhile, you’re going to want to count yourself in for 2023. There will never be a better time to drink and collect exceptional wines exceptionalwith value. Details will be shared as approaches.C300
release
TRAVEL IS BACK!
A LOOK AT THINGS TO COME
The ‘toe in the water’ that was our trip to France in May was a huge success. It sold out quickly and the Members on the trip report having had a marvelous experience. “Trip of a lifetime!” was one of the comments from the survey. As a result, we are planning two Opimian trips in 2023. Watch for details on South America in the spring and Italy in the fall. It is nothing short of astonishing how welcoming our partners are around the world. The hospitality they extend to Opimian Members is always first class.
Expected dates are approximate and may change without warning.
A NEW SUBSCRIPTION & EXCITING NEWS ON EXISTING SUBSCRIPTIONS
2023 Cellar Schedule Opimian’s 50th year of bringing exclusive wines to Canadians At the time of your order, the wines are still at the wineries. Orders are placed directly with our independent winemakers, who carefully bottle your wines and prepare your cases. C300: BURGUNDY, NEW ZEALAND & AUSTRALIA Opens November 8, 2022 Last day to order: December 12, 2022 Expected release: Spring 2023 Photo: Wines by Geoff Hardy C301: SOUTH AFRICA & TUSCANY Opens December 13, 2022 Last day to order: January 16, 2023 Expected release: Summer 2023 Photo: Bosman Wines (Corlea Fourie) C302: CHILEARGENTINA,&ALSACE Opens January 17, 2023 Last day to order: February 20, 2023 Expected release: Summer 2023 Photo: Mauricio Lorca C303: RHÔNE, WHITE BURGUNDY & CHAMPAGNE Opens February 21, 2023 Last day to order: March 27, 2023 Expected release: Summer 2023 Photo: Domaine des Romarins C304: SPAIN & AUSTRIA Opens March 28, 2023 Last day to order: May 1, FallExpected2023release:2023 Photo: Spain C305: BERGERAC,BORDEAUX,BEAUJOLAIS Opens May 2, 2023 Last day to order: June 5, FallExpected2023release:2023 Photo: Krajewski family (Clos Cantenac) C306: ITALY, GERMANY & CORSICA Opens June 6, 2023 Last day to order: July 10, WinterExpected2023release:2024 Photo: Vigne di Sammarco C307: LANGUEDOCROUSSILLON, LOIRE, PROVENCE & COGNAC Opens July 11, 2023 Last day to order: August 14, 2023 Expected release: Winter 2024 Photo: Lemstra family (Chateau Canet) C308: GERMANYOREGON,CALIFORNIA,PORTUGAL,&CANADA Opens August 15, 2023 Last day to ExpectedSeptemberorder:18,2023release:Winter 2024 Photo: Ramilo Wines C309: ITALY & CANADA Opens October 3, 2023 Last day to order: November 6, 2023 Expected release: Spring 2024 Photo: Italy If you have any questions or want to order, contact us: MemberService@Opimian.ca or 1 800 361-9421
38
Since childhood, Valter Bosio has loved to hunt for truffles with a trusted canine companion by his side. Leda is a Lagotto Ramagnolo, a breed known for its exceptional truffle-hunting skills. The pair shared such a strong connection that Valter decided to name a range of his wines after Leda, who he calls the “queen of the truffle hunters.”
The Truffle Hunter wines are crafted by the Bosio Family Estates located in the picturesque community of Santa Stefano Belbo, Piedmont. The family –Valter, Rosella and their son Luca – are committed to sharing their heritage with the world through the wines that they create.
2022-2028,M8D8 Plum, black cherry, toasted barrel 18°C Grilled strawberry, cherry, plum, oak 14% Spit-roasted porchetta 2022-2026,M9D9 Smoky plum, cherry 18°C Strawberry, cherry, raspberry 14% Risotto al Barbera 2022-2029,M8D9 Cherries jubilee, leather, mint 18°C Dried and fresh cherry, tea, bakingsandalwood,spice 14% Beef shank lasagna photo — Valter & Leda returning from the hunt. CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3732 TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BARBERA D'ALBA DOC BARRIQUE, 2020Barbera $ 23 $ 138 3733 TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BARBERA APPASSIMENTO DOC PIEMONTE, 2021 Barbera $ 26 $ 156 3734 TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BARBARESCO DOCG, 2019 Nebbiolo $ 31 $ 186
While the Appassimento technique of concentrating the colours, aromas and flavours by drying of grapes is an ancient practice, there is a renewed buzz about these well-heeled wines. An intriguing bouquet of smoky plum and cherry is followed by a palate rich with flavours of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. A subtle hint of smokiness adds to the wine’s charisma. lw
Both Barolo and Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo and both well-structured wines are considered wine royalty. While expressions vary by producer and vineyard, Barbaresco, grown on richer soils, typically has the slightly softer tannin of the two. The 2019 Truffle Hunter Leda Barbaresco offers a bouquet of cherries jubilee, leather and mint followed by a complex palate of dried and fresh cherry, tea, sandalwood and bakingspice notes. lw
TRUFFLE HUNTER
The 2020 Truffle Hunter Leda Barbera d'Alba welcomes with a generous bouquet of black fruit and toasted barrel. strawberry,flavoursMouthwateringofgrilledcherryand plum are offset by well-integrated tannin and oak spice. Play off the smokiness of this unique wine by pairing with spitroasted porchetta. Delizioso! lw
— PIEDMONT TRUFFLE HUNTER 39
Dried red fruit, cherry, strawberry, talc, potpourri,
The bouquet of the 2018 Truffle Hunter Leda Barolo features notes of dried cherry, earth, leather and spice. The palate unfolds with layers of dried red fruit, cherry and strawberry along with an essence of talc, potpourri and leather. In cellar, this wine will continue to integrate and evolve. lw
leather 14% Parmigiano-Reggiano 2022-2032,M8D8 Red fruit, floral 18°C Cherry, red currant, damson 14% Gemelli with goat ragù DON'T MISS THESE ITALIANPOPULARWINES! 3735 TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BAROLO DOCG, Nebbiolo2018 $ 45 $ 270 3736 PASSATO DOC LANGHE NEBBIOLO ORGANIC, 2021 Nebbiolo $ 28 $ 168 NEW
lw 2026-2036,M6D7
Dried cherry, spice, earth,
Fruity and floral on the nose with aromas of raspberry, plum and rosewater. The palate is alive with flavours of cherry, red currant and damson. Ready to drink with restrained tannin, the 2021 Passato Nebbiolo is a great place to start exploring this revered grape variety.
leather 18°C
REVEAL THE REMARKABLE
A CONNOISSEUR’S DREAM. Exclusive to this program, Founders Choice wines are not available elsewhere in the Cellar Offering. Dedicated to the spirit of our Founders, this program presents only the finest wines. As vines age, they tend to become less vigorous and, as a result, produce more concentrated fruit. This wine opens with aromas of violet, plum and cured meat. Its firm tannins and refreshing acidity provide a solid structure for its black fruit core. Enjoy now or mature in cellar for several years. The Founders Choice producer is Malvirà, a world-class winery in Roero. Via your Dashboard at Opimian.ca Call 1-800-361-9421 Email MemberService@Opimian.ca per Cellar Offering SUBSCRIBE NOW $128
A crisp and refreshing medium-bodied wine, the perfect accompaniment for oysters on the half shell or scallop ceviche. Aromas of grilled lemon and hay are carried forward to the palate where they are met with appealing melon and pear flavours. A tasteful wine with notable complexity and a generous finish.
Oysters
13%
MALVIRÀ
Strawberry, cherry, rose, caramel red currant,
Grilled lemon, hay, melon, pear, [<3.00]
rose 13.5% Sauteed sausage, onions and peppers 2022-2026,M9D9
18°C Strawberry,
The Malvirà journey started with Giuseppe Damonte who began making wine in the 1950s. Eventually, his sons Roberto and Massimo joined the family business. Today, Roberto and his son Giacomo are responsible for winemaking while Massimo and his sons Francesco and Pietro oversee the vineyards. Patrizia, Roberto's wife, manages both the winery and the family's 1750's-built luxury boutique hotel Villa Tiboldi. Following the family values, the Damontes are committed to creating wine that evokes emotion.
DON'T CASEGRAPPAMALVIRÀ'SMISSMIXEDONPAGE54. 3683 MALVIRÀ LANGHE DOC NEBBIOLO, 2019Nebbiolo $ 24 $ 144 NEW 3682 MALVIRÀ ROERO ARNEIS DOCG, 2021Arneis $ 29 $ 174 NEW
lw 2025-2032,M8D8
Made from Nebbiolo grown on calcareous clay-sand soils in the Roero region. A full-bodied wine with a well-structured framework of fine-grained tannin and lively acidity. The fragrant bouquet offers aromas of strawberry, cherry, rose and caramel. Flavours of strawberry, red currant and rose follow. Evolution will continue in cellar for several years to come. lw
Grilled lemon, hay
on the half shell with diced mango mignonette and ginger-soy with chives photo — Three generations of Damontes. FORPRODUCERTHISCELLAR
— PIEDMONT MALVIRÀ 41
6°C
2022-2024,M9D9 Peach, pear, apple, floral 6°C Peach, [0.50]grapefruit,melon,lemon, 12% Risotto primavera
GAVI 42
La Zerba, a family estate, can be found in the Gavi appellation, tucked away in the hills of the Ligurian-Piedmont Apennines. Founders Ida Cozzio and Livio Lorenzi used family knowledge, in addition to the experience of local growers, to take exceptional care of their 12-acre plot. From the beginning, the results showed in the glass, with La Zerba Gavi being internationally recognized as one of the top wines in the region. Since 2015, the vines have been farmed organically. Hand-harvesting into special baskets and gentle pressing in the winery ensures the highest quality. The 2021 La Zerba Gavi Comune di Tassarolo is fermented at a cool temperature to retain the wine’s elegant orchard fruit and floral aromas. The palate is reminiscent of peach, melon, grapefruit and lemon. Maceration on the grape skins and stirring on lees adds texture and flavour to the palate. lw
photo — Terracotta amphora vessels provide unique thermal insulation to La Zerba's Gavi.
CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3698 LA ZERBA GAVI DOCG COMUNE DI TASSAROLO BIO, 2021 Cortese $ 23 $ 138 NEW
talc 14%
with pork and beef meatballs FORPRODUCERTHISCELLAR
— PIEDMONT NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI
43
The range of Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi wines are crafted by Vignaioli Piemontesi, Italy’s largest producers’ organization. The company represents 38 cooperative cellars and over 400 small estates, and is responsible for producing 30% of Piedmontese wine. The Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi winery is located in Bricherasio where the wines are made with a commitment to excellence and lower impact on the environment.
Barbera typically has bright acidity making it an excellent wine to pair with food. This fresh acidity cleanses your palate between bites heightening the taste experience. Dishes with high acidity such as tomato or cream-based pastas are ideal matches. The 2021 Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi Barbera delivers great value with a smoky plum and red fruit bouquet and ripe red berry fruit flavours. An ideal wine to have on hand for mid-week meals. lw
lavender 18°C
Stracotto
Spaghetti
di manzo beef stew
candied strawberry 14.5%
Cherry, raspberry,
strawberry,cherry,earth 18°C
Smoky
plum, red currant, raspberrycherry, 18°C Ripe cranberrycherry,strawberry,raspberry, 14% Beef and pork ravioli in creamy mushroom sauce 3746 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI NEBBIOLO, DOC LANGHE, 2021 Nebbiolo $ 21 $ 126 3748 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI DOLCETTO, DOC PIEMONTE, 2021 Dolcetto $ 18 $ 108 3747 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBERA, DOC PIEMONTE, 2021 Barbera $ 19 $ 114 NEW
2022-2025,M9D9
2022-2030,M8D9
Made from Dolcetto grapes grown on clay-marl soils in the Langhe region. A floral and fruity wine with aromas of rose, cherry, strawberry and earth. Flavours of strawberry, black cherry, plum, rhubarb and talc follow. Approachable tannins and fresh acidity support the fruit. Enjoy today – or for years to come. lw
A fruity and approachable Nebbiolo with a ruby hue and raspberry and lavender perfume. Animated red fruit notes of cherry, raspberry and candied strawberry fill the palate. Easy tannins and fresh acid make this wine both ready to enjoy and a sure-fire crowd pleaser. lw
Raspberry,
2022-2025,M9D9
Strawberry, black cherry, plum, rhubarb,
Rose,
Join Opimian’s Masters of Wine with e Masters Case Subscription e Best in a Box Easy to order Expertly curated Effortlessly enjoyable Overwhelmed by choosing wines in the Cellar? Subscribe to The Masters Case, a mixed, six-bottle case curated by Opimian’s own Masters of Wine for Members like you. Even better, you get to taste the wines along with your MW once you receive them! Two bottles each of three outstanding wines from a featured region to take the guesswork out of choosing! You will discover three styles of wine that will challenge your palate and cultivate your curiosity. Rely on world-class expertise! The Masters Case wines from this Cellar come from Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi, located in Bricherasio where the wines are made with a commitment to excellence and lower impact on the environment. SIGN UP NOW via your dashboard at Opimian.ca MemberService@opimian.ca | 1-800-361-9421 $120 PER CELLAR
A well-defined wine with a framework of firm tannins and mouthwatering acidity. It is floral, fruity and savoury on the nose with aromas of cherry, cranberry, potpourri and balsamic. The palate is pure fruited with inviting dried cherry, raspberry and cranberry flavours. Very well balanced with a generous finish. lw
— Traditional
— PIEDMONT NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI 45
A classic Barbaresco with a pale ruby garnet hue that reveals a bouquet of cherry, strawberry and cranberry fruit. Flavours of ripe red berries follow on the palate taper into a generous finish. The wine is well balanced by firm tannin and refreshing acidity. It is ready to drink today but will continue to gain complexity as it develops in bottle. lw
Cherry,
strawberry and cranberry fruit. 18°C
Cherry,
cherry, strawberry 14% Salumi and cheese board
2022-2029,M8D9
potpourri,cranberry,balsamic 18°C Dried raspberry,cherry,cranberry 14% Prosciutto and melon
perfectly
Raspberry,
2022-2029,M8D9 Wild cherry,strawberry,plum,rose 18°C Strawberry, cherry, raspberry 14.5% Pulled pork with cherry-bourbon barbecue sauce 3749 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBARESCO, DOCG, 2019 Nebbiolo $ 32 $ 192 3751 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BAROLO, DOCG, 2018 Nebbiolo $ 41 $ 246 3750 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBERA D'ASTI SUPERIORE, DOCG, Barbera2020 $ 22 $ 132
2026-2036,M7D8
The 2020 Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi Barbera d'Asti Superiore isn’t holding back: it opens with a dramatic bouquet of wild strawberry, cherry, plum and rose aromas. This intensity is matched on the palate with juicy fruit flavours of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. The Barbera d'Asti Superiore designation requires a minimum of 14 months of aging after harvest, six of which must be in barrel and six in bottle. lw
photo Piemontese antipasti, paired with Noi Vignaioli.
No one knows why so many of the world’s fine wine regions start with a “B”. In the industry, we call them the “Killer Bees” (we’re a madcap bunch, let me tell you). Piemonte’s contributions to the hive are Barolo and Barbaresco, two of the most prestigious DOCG zones in all of Italy.
CELLAR 299 — DID YOU KNOW?
The hills that are such a feature of this region are part of the terroir that lends the wines such great complexity and interest: most vineyards are planted at altitudes of between 150 metres and 50 metres, and exposure, too, varies with every fold and curve. By law, vineyards for the production of Barolo and Barbaresco must face south (technically, between NW and NE). The prevailing climate is continental, with the Apennines protecting the region from rainfall from the south and the Alps blocking the flow of cold currents from the north. The soils are broadly similar in both Barolo and Barbaresco with limestone doing most of the heavy lifting and varying percentages of sand and clay. Generally speaking, the higher the sand content in a vineyard’s soil, the more delicate and perfumed its wines, while vines grown on dense clays produce wines of greater concentration and structure.
Barolo and Barbaresco
CABUTTO TENUTA LA VOLTA BAROLO, DOCG, 2018, LOT 3697, P33 LA BRICCOMORANDINA-SPESSA BARBARESCO DOCG, 2018, LOT 3702, P50
Michael Palij MW is the third Canadian Master of Wine. He specializes in Italian wines and has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.
In the glass, it can be difficult to differentiate Barolo from Barbaresco, so much do the two DOCG zones have in common. Barbaresco is, typically, slightly lighter in style (it’s released a year earlier), and more accessible in its youth, while Barolo has greater depth and staying power, but the way these wines present themselves often owes more to winemaking decisions than to terroir.
46 DID YOU KNOW?
Piedmont (or Piemonte) is a region of Italy whose name hints at its geographical location in the foothills of the Alps, snuggled up against the French border. It is one of the most stunningly beautiful wine regions in Italy (possibly in the world), where every hairpin turn on the hilly roads opens up onto breath-taking new vistas. The Alps, usually capped by snow, form the background to a landscape striped with serried rows of vines and walled medieval villages perched high on the hilltops.
Although several grapes are grown in the region, the best sites in both Barolo and Barbaresco are reserved for the late-ripening Nebbiolo (both wines must be 100% Nebbiolo), a grape whose name is probably derived from nebbia, the eerie fog that shrouds the hills around the time of harvest. These structured, long-lived wines are notable for their perfume as much as for their power. In their youth, traditional descriptors include both black and red fruit, floral notes, hay, and licorice. Both wines typically show an intensely floral character when young. As they age they gain in earthiness, their aromas usually resembling the heady truffles Piedmont produces in winter (a wonderful gastronomic synergy).
By Michael Palij MW
The best way to choose a Barolo or Barbaresco to suit your tastes is to find a producer whose winemaking philosophy appeals to you. Do you like your wines richly fruited or do you prefer a greater degree of restraint? Is your preference for wines that are appealing in their youth, or do you have the patience to cellar them for a decade or so before they reveal themselves in their full glory? And do you appreciate generous amounts of new French oak, or is your taste more in line with traditional ageing processes, in which the wines mature for longer (the legal minimum period for wood ageing is 18 months for Barolo and 9 months for Barbaresco) in large barrels that lend a more subtle influence? You might find additional clues in the character of individual vintages, but each producer in the region exerts his (or her) influence on the style of wine you’ll find in the bottle.
47
— PIEDMONT CANTINA CLAVESANA CANTINA CLAVESANA
Barolo is aged for a minimum of 38 months, a minimum of 18 of which must be in barrel. Barbaresco is aged for a minimum of 26 months, with at least nine of these in wood. Impressive dedication from these fine wine producers! The 2018 Cantina Clavesana Terra Barolo is a well-structured wine offering generous complexity and good balance. The bouquet offers layers of cherry, plum, tea and spice. Dried and fresh fruit on the palate is complemented by traces of tea and oak. lw
The 2021 Cantina Clavesana Terra Roero is a great example of how Arneis can have a satisfyingly full body without the use of oak. A graceful bouquet of floral, grapefruit, green apple and lemon aromas leads to flavours of peach, apple, melon and pear. A hint of minerality lingers on the palate adding interest and complexity. Consider as an alternative to Pinot Gris or unoaked Chardonnay. lw
photo
Established in 1959, the Cantina Clavesana cooperative began with 32 founding members committed to working together to make excellent wine in the hills of Langhe. Today, the organization represents 200 wine producers responsible for the harvest of 320 hectares of vineyards. The group specializes in the indigenous variety Dolcetto but have recently expanded their range to include other local varieties such as Nebbiolo and Barbera along with the international varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Cantina Clavesana values the contribution of their younger members. Understanding their vital role in the future of the industry, the group established the Youth Council in 2018.
— Bud break at Clavesana signalling wonderful things to come. 3699 TERRA PIEMONTE SPUMANTE, DOC, Chardonnay,2019 Pinot Noir $ 35 $ 210 3700 TERRA BAROLO, DOCG, 2018 Nebbiolo $ 41 $ 246 3701 TERRA ROERO ARNEIS, DOCG, 2021Arneis $ 21 $ 126
2022-2026,M9D9 Fresh citrus, white grapefruit, melon, white flowers, brioche 6°C Fresh citrus, white grapefruit, melon, pear, white flowers, [8.50] 12.5% Fried calamari with lemon aioli 2025-2035,M7D8 Cherry, plum, tea, spice 18°C Dried pomegranate,cranberry,cherry, tea, oak 14.5% Roast game hen 2022-2024,M9D9 Floral, grapefruit, green apple, lemon 6°C Peach, apple, melon, pear, mineral, [2.18] 14% Milder Indian curries
A traditional method sparkling wine with a generous bouquet of fresh citrus, white grapefruit, melon and white flowers that carries through to the palate. These flavours are complemented by a note of Bosc pear that adds to the wine’s complexity. An appealing nuance of brioche reflects 20 months of bottle aging on the lees before disgorgement. Explore as an alternative to Champagne or Cava. lw
A perfect wine to serve slightly chilled to highlight its fresh fruity style. A classic Pinot Nero with a pale ruby hue, light body and moderate tannin. The nose is generous with aromas of rose, violet, wild strawberry and mushroom. Bright red fruit flavours of cherry, rhubarb and strawberry along with a touch of seasoned wood are found on the palate.
There is an appealing freshness about the 2021 Franco Amoroso Barbera d'Alba. A bouquet of cherry, strawberry and plum aromas is echoed on the palate. This is a well-structured Barbera with support from firm tannin and refreshing acidity. A great wine to have on hand for family gettogethers. Pair with a wide range of dishes including roast beef with mushroom gravy or hearty lasagne-stuffed peppers. lw
lw 2022-2025,M9D9 Fresh strawberry,cherry,plum 18°C Fresh strawberry,cherry,plum 13.5% Roast beef with wild mushroom gravy 2022-2025,M9D9 Rose, violet, wild strawberry, mushroom 18°C Cherry, strawberry,rhubarb,wood 13% Oven-braised pork chops with cherry sauce photo by davide papalini — The UNESCO World Heritage site of Monferrato.FROMTHE ROLLING HILLS OF PIEDMONT TO YOUR CELLAR CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3742 BARBERA D'ALBA, DOC, FRANCO AMOROSO, 2021 Barbera $ 21 $ 126 3743 LA CUPOLA PINOT NERO DOC PIEMONTE TENUTE NEIRANO, 2021Pinot Nero $ 22 $ 132 NEW
48
The 2020 Tenute Neirano Tirteo Barbera d'Asti Superiore delivers great value. A bouquet of smoky cherry and red currant aromas carries forward to a concentrated palate of plum, cherry and raspberry apriorbalanceandWell-integratedflavours.tanninsrefreshingaciditythefruitcoretotransitioningintosatisfyingfinish.
In 1982, winemaker Antonio Sperone and his father Giacomo followed in the footsteps of their ancestors by establishing Tenute Neirano. The Estate is located in the town of Casalotto di Mombaruzzo tucked away in the hills of Monferrato. The area is so breathtaking and steeped in history that it has been established as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The vineyards are planted with a range of varieties including Nebbiolo, Barbera, Pinot Nero and Brachetto. Today, with the contribution of his brother Paolo and his children Francesca and Andrea, Antonio and co-winemaker Fabio Pesenti craft world-renowned wines by combining experience and tradition with technology and advancements.
TENUTE NEIRANO
— PIEDMONT TENUTE NEIRANO
lw 2022-2025,M9D9 Smoky cherry, red currant 18°C Plum, raspberrycherry, 13.5% Miso-ginger roasted chicken thighs
49
A pale, ruby garnet hue unveils a bouquet of dried red fruit, leather and cured meat. The palate follows with concentrated dried red fruit, sweet cherry, cranberry and plum flavours. Tightly knit tannins and lively acidity are perfectly balanced by the pronounced fruit intensity giving this wine a long life ahead.
lw 2034+,2024-M7D8 Dried red fruit, leather, cured meat 18°C Dried red fruit, sweet cherry, cranberry, plum 14% Grilled radicchio, leeks, wild mushrooms and squash on fried polenta 3744 TIRTEO BARBERA D'ASTI SUPERIORE DOCG TENUTE NEIRANO, 2020 Barbera $ 22 $ 132 3745 BAROLO DOCG TENUTE NEIRANO, 2018Nebbiolo $ 44 $ 264 NEW
Cherry,
Wines made from thin-skinned Nebbiolo have a deceptively pale hue considering their robust tannins and potential for complexity. The 2018 La Morandina cellar.allowconcentrationisintegratedspicedofgenerousNebbiolo.exampleBarbarescoBricco-SpessaisawonderfulofthecapacityofAninvitingwinewitharomasandflavourscherry,strawberryandplum.Withripewell-tannins,thiswinereadytodrink;however,itsandbalancewillforyearsofevolutionin
Peach, apricot
and cantaloupe 6°C
strawberry, spiced plum 14.5%
cheese omelette with asparagus and cherry tomatoes
braised pot roast2022-2025,M9D9
Cherry,
5.5%
50
The Morando family has resided in the Castiglione Tinella area for 500 years. In 1988, when Giulio and Paolo took over stewardship of the land, they established Tenuta La Morandina. The brothers are committed to the environment – 80% of the energy used at the winery is renewable, produced from the biomass of their own spent seeds, stalks and canes. Their winemaking philosophy is to combine traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional Moscato, Barbaresco, Barbera d'Asti and Chardonnay.
strawberry, spiced plum 18°C
— Daily inspection of the grapes' progress is an essential at La Morandina. CELLAR 299 — ALBERTA 3703 LA MORANDINA MOSCATO D'ASTI DOCG, CANELLI, 2021 Moscato $ 22 $ 132 NEW 3702 LA MORANDINA BRICCO - SPESSA BARBARESCO DOCG, 2018 Nebbiolo $ 57 $ 171 NEW
Moscato d'Asti should be the official wine of brunch. Its pronounced fruity style and lower alcohol pairs well with all our favourite morning foods, from banana pancakes to cheesy omelettes. The 2021 La classicMoscatoMorandinad'Astiisaexamplewith a highly aromatic bouquet of peach, apricot and cantaloupe. On the palate, this wine is light and frothy brimming with flavours that echo the aromas. The sweet finish is perfectly balanced by fresh acidity. lw 2022-2032,M7D9
Peach, apricot and cantaloupe, [110]
photo
Fontina
Piedmontese-style
LA MORANDINA
lw
CATERINA
2022-2029,M6D7
boar ragù with polenta
strawberry, rose, cured meat, brown sugar 15°C
photo SANTA
Cranberry,
Cherry,
Classic
Risotto nero with burrata
Dried
DON'T MISS CASENEBBIOLOPRODUCER'STHISMIXEDONPAGE52. 3755 ILLEGALE NEBBIOLOMONFERRATOSUPERIOREDOC, 2019 Nebbiolo $ 36 $ 216 NEW 3754 MONFERACE DOC GRIGNOLINO D'ASTI, Grignolino2017 $ 66 $ 198 NEW 3753 SORÌDIGIUL DOC FREISA D'ASTI SUPERIORE, 2016 Freisa $ 54 $ 162 NEW
— Beautifully restored Tenuta Santa Caterina —paradise preserved! TENUTA
Strawberry, cherry, raspberry
Located in the picturesque town of Grazzano Badoglio, Tenuta Santa Caterina was restored by Guido Carlo Alleva in the early 2000s when he joined his family in the art of making wine. The winery sits atop of ancient underground cellars, or infernòt, that have been carved 17 metres into the canton stone earth below. These breathtaking vaults are such an important feature of the region that they have been recognized as an essential element of its UNESCO World Heritage status.
raspberry, rhubarb, tea 13%
fruit, leather, spice, herb 15%
vitello tonnato with capers and anchovies
Santa Caterina is one of 12 wineries working together to rejuvenate Grignolino in Monferrato. Related to Nebbiolo and Freisa, this historic variety produces very low yields and is capable of making highquality, long-lived wines. This is an elegant example with an aromatic bouquet of cherry, strawberry, rose, cured meat and brown sugar. The palate is equally sophisticated with layers of fresh and dried red fruit, leather, spice and herb balanced by firm, fine-grained tannin. lw
15%
“Illegale” references that Nebbiolo was not permitted in the name of Monferrato wines before 2019. Grown in the limestone rich soil of the “Rombi” vineyard, this graceful wine offers a bouquet filled with fresh and dried red fruit, cherry, strawberry, plum and spice. Firm, well-integrated tannins provide support for the concentrated strawberry, cherry, raspberry fruit core. Tuck away in your cellar as a gift to your future self. lw
2022-2026,M9D9
2022-2032,M8D9
red fruit, leather, earth, tea 18°C
— PIEDMONT TENUTA SANTA CATERINA 51
Cherry,
Red
The 2016 SorìdiGiul Freisa d'Asti Superiore is an ideal option if you are wanting a mature wine – but don’t want to wait. Made from the Freisa variety, it presents an engaging bouquet of dried red fruit, leather, earth and tea. The palate is equally complex, layered with dried cranberry, raspberry, rhubarb and tea notes. A burst of fresh red fruit on the finish indicates this wine is still very much alive. lw
strawberry, plum, spice 18°C
Wild
— CELLAR 299 COLLECTOR’S CORNER 53
MONFERRATO
NAVLÈ TENUTA SANTA CATERINA DOC MONFERRATO ROSSO, salumi, burrata, arugula al sugo di salsiccia
Prior to 2019, the red wines of Monferrato were referred to as “Rosso,” not by grape variety. But make no mistake: this is Nebbiolo at its finest. Expectedly, the 2014 Navlè Tenuta Santa Caterina Monferrato Rosso is presenting as slightly more youthful than its 2013 sibling, but the family resemblance remains apparent. An aromatic bouquet of cherry, raspberry, spice, leather and tea greets the nose while fresh, and dried red fruit, tea and rose petal nuances layer the palate. Confident tannins and lively acidity frame the fruit core. While all the elements are in perfect balance, another year or two in cellar will allow for their thorough integration. lw
NAVLÈ TENUTA SANTA CATERINA DOC ROSSO,
2014 Nebbiolo 2022-2028,M8D9 Rose petal, dried cherry, raspberry,plum,leather 18°C Red fruit,
and garlic toast points 2024-2031,M7D9 Cherry, raspberry, spice, leather, tea 18°C Red fruit, tea, rose petal 14% Ruote
(pasta with sausage sauce) CORNERCOLLECTOR’S RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR FROM SANTATENUTACATERINA ONE BOTTLE EACH 2013 & 2014 MIXED CASE 3756 NAVLÈ TENUTA SANTA CATERINA CASE $ 92 $ 184
2013 Nebbiolo
The outstanding quality of the 2013 Navlè Tenuta Santa Caterina Monferrato Rosso is immediately clear with a luxurious bouquet of rose petal, dried cherry, plum, raspberry and leather. On the palate, developed notes of dried red fruit, salumi, leather and spice are interwoven with fresh cherry, strawberry and raspberry highlights. Polished tannins and fresh acidity seamlessly knit the experience together. I would be confident contributing this bottle to any occasion. This is an unforgettable wine, and tasting it truly made my day. lw
leather, spice 14% Fresh
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MALVIRÀ GRAPPA DI BIRBET
54 CELLAR 299 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER
Grappa %
The Malvirà Grappa di Nebbiolo is laser focused with pronounced steely, mineraldriven aromas. The palate is equally dramatic, layered with racy minerality and white pepper notes that haunt a long, intriguing finish. A delightful accompaniment for a special meal. lw
NEW
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It is fascinating to taste Malvirà’s grappas side by side. Each has a distinct flavour profile and personality reflecting the grapes from which they were made. The Malvirà Grappa di Birbet was made from Brachetto Lungo del Roero grapes. The nose reveals a burst of mango, apricot and pineapple fruit aromas. Although completely dry on the palate, the flavours are reminiscent of sugared peaches, mango and pineapple which taper off into a mineral-laden finish. lw
Grappa %
Made from the pomace of Malvirà’s Arneis Roero, this delightful grappa sings with aromas of licorice, rose, melon and peach. Flavours of peach, melon and apricot follow on the palate through to the finish. The Malvirà grappas are of such high quality they should be enjoyed at room temperature to experience all their refined flavour. lw
MALVIRÀ GRAPPA DI NEBBIOLO Grappa %
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MALVIRÀ GRAPPA DI ARNEIS
— CELLAR 299 COLLECTOR’S CORNER 55 CORNERCOLLECTOR’S RARE SPIRITS TO ENHANCE YOUR BAR Grappa is an Italian spirit made by distilling the pomace that remains after winemaking. Traditionally, it is enjoyed as a digestif or, alternatively, with espresso. As is the case with wine, grappa is made in a range of quality levels. The best examples are made from gently-pressed premium grapes, with distillation taking place quickly to capture the fruity aromatics. If you have not enjoyed a top-end grappa yet, you are in for a treat with this selection from Malvirà. ONE BOTTLE EACH BIRBET, NEBBIOLO & ARNEIS MIXED CASE FROM MALVIRÀ 3684 MALVIRÀ GRAPPA CASE $ 69 $ 207
Opportunity I - Lot 3685
Malvirà Barolo, DOCG, Boiolo Vertical Tasting Case: 1 bottle each: 2017, 2018 (WOOD CASE)
300-2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8 OPIMIAN.CA 300-2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8 OPIMIAN.CA
Every now and then, Opimian finds an extra special partner. Malvirà is one of those. We got to know each other last year. As a result, the Damonte family is trusting us with their most precious wines. The scores from the Master of Wine tasting were off the charts. These wines, never in Canada before, will be of particular interest to collectors and connoisseurs. We are privileged to have these vintages available to us.
Opportunity II - Lot 3686 Malvirà Barolo, DOCG, Boiolo Vertical Tasting Case: 1 bottle each: 2015, 2016 (WOOD CASE)
BaroloOutstandingMalviràVerticals
Popup! WEB CHECK YOUR INBOX OR FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA @opimianwineclubdevin Limited time Limited quantities Web only Only at Opimian.ca beginning September 26. Limite d Time – Limited Quantities – Web Only!
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Malvirà Barolo, DOCG, Boiolo Vertical Tasting Case: 1 bottle each: 2013, 2014 (WOOD CASE)
Opportunity III - Lot 3687
