COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES

LE MURATE COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOCG, 2020, LOT 3694, P27

EVERYDAY DRINKING

NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBERA D'ASTI SUPERIORE, DOCG, 2020. LOT 3750, P45

EUDES PICCOLO BIANCO DOC ETNA BIANCO, 2019, LOT 3691, P15

CELLARING POTENTIAL

CORTESE SABUCI CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO DOCG ORGANIC WINE, 2020, LOT 3708, P19

Exceptionally, the island of Sardinia shares its key local red grape with France and Spain: Cannonau is none other than Grenache/Garnacha, yet there are some good arguments for its Sardinian and not mainland Spanish provenance. Cannonau di Sardegna DOC usually has deep but not opaque colour, medium tannin and body, mineral, floral and balsamic notes, and preserved dark fruit and berries. The main white grape and wine in Sardinia is Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, another ancient grape with disputed provenance and presence in most of southern Europe. These wines can range from light to full, with moderate acidity, a nice round mouthfeel, a saline note and flavours from citrus and flowers to tropical fruit elements. But both reds and whites are very distinctly Sardinian. In Piedmont, regal Nebbiolo casts a long shadow, but the region has a number of other interesting grapes. The lemony, fresh white wines rely on local Cortese (in Gavi DOC) and Arneis. The red Grignolino and Freisa make crisp, light, sometimes frizzante, early-drinking wines to pair with savoury salumi. A tier up, Dolcetto makes deeply coloured, mid-weight wine with plush tannins that’s lovely early and, if well made, can age. Barbera is more structured with more acidity, if lighter coloured and makes red- and dark-fruited reds ranging from accessible to serious examples meant for cellaring. Both grapes make appearance as d’Asti or d’Alba e.g. Barbera d’Asti DOCG, or in blends in other DOCs, like Langhe. And finally, Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s top-notch grape and one of the crown jewels of Italian and global winedom. It also can be found as Langhe, or d’Alba/d’Asti designation, in blends or alone, but it truly shines in Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs. Late-ripening and finicky, it gives the wines medium to deep colour with the aromas traditionally described as “tar and roses”, which can also be interpreted as new leather, camphor or mint, hibiscus flowers and cornelian cherry. It usually has fresh acidity, ripe yet firm tannins and a medium to full body. The modern examples of more structured Barolo and more airy Barbaresco are enjoyable young, but many reward extended cellaring with the savoury underbrush, mushroom and fruit preserve elements and softened tannins. The best of these wines truly belong to the pantheon of the best in the world. We have just scratched the surface, as there are many more finds even in the regions we visited here, let alone those we missed. So do not wait, dive in and start discovering or re-discovering the treasure trove that Italy is – there is so much to explore, and so little time.