Cellar Offering 280-BC: Tuscany and South Africa

CELLAR ORDER DEC 15, 2020 - JAN 18, 2021

TUSCANY AND SOUTH AFRICA Opimian.ca

BC 281

Tuscany

C

DELIVERY WILL BE

EARLY SUMMER 2021

CA

IV CVMS

P8 CINCIANO CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2019, LOT 2214, P9

Cellar 281

TUSCANY AND SOUTH AFRICA

P14 CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA ALTADONNA CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2018, LOT 2223, P15

P18 CANTINA VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO DI SCANSANO SERAPHICUM ROSSO TOSCANO, IGT, 2019, LOT 2239, P21

P22 IL VELTRO IL VELTRO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC, 2019, LOT 2243, P22

Thinking of Tuscany conjures up images of cypress trees, twisty roads and medieval hilltop villages like Montalcino and Montepulciano. This is a captivating landscape — wild and rural — around the cultural centres of Florence and Siena. It is a land of intense rivalry, which has been fought over many times.

A land of hunters and wild boar, a land that has been cultivated with vines and olive trees for centuries.

Yet Tuscany has more to discover than Chianti Classico, with wines from the coastal Maremma region as well as sparkling and sweet Vin Santo wines or even hand-crafted gins and vodka.

The Cape Winelands in South Africa is also a beautiful region. A dramatic landscape with vines planted on some of the oldest soils in the world. In the best sites, the warm climate and low rainfall are compensated for by planting on slopes at altitude, in the shade of mountains where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans bring cool air. 2020 has not been an easy year anywhere, but particularly in South Africa, where sales and transport of alcohol were banned for a time and lockdown was instigated during harvest. Having said all that, the 2020 wines I have tasted are delicious.

JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by our consultant Master of Wine, Jane Masters. Jane has an in-depth knowledge of the world of wine. Her aim is to share her experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal manner. She is one of 409 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018 by her peers.

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

cover — Enrico Chioccioli Altadonna, Master Distiller,

is behind the first and only independent distillery of the Chianti Classio region.

FEATURED PRODUCERS THEIR MOST POPULAR OPIMIAN WINES

GP BFV

WWE

AW

V RKW

South Africa

P26 GROOTE POST GROOTE POST SAUVIGNON BLANC, DARLING HILLS, 2020, LOT 2253, P26

P32 BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS GENERATION 8 MERLOT, WELLINGTON, 2020, LOT 2259, P33

P38 ARISTEA WINES ARISTEA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, STELLENBOSCH, 2018, LOT 2269, P39

DIRECTORS’ CUT...........................................................................P5 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR.....................................................P7 CINCIANO............................................................................................P8 CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA......................................................P14 CANTINA VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO DI SCANSANO.................................................................................P18 IL VELTRO.......................................................................................... P22 GROOTE POST............................................................................... P26 TOP VALUE WINES....................................................................P28 BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS........................................... P32 ARISTEA WINES........................................................................... P38 CELLAR UP!.................................................................................... P40 RICHARD KERSHAW WINES............................................... P42 WARWICK WINE ESTATE.......................................................P46 VILAFONTÉ......................................................................................P50 COLLECTOR’S CORNER.........................................................P54

P42 RICHARD KERSHAW WINES

P46 WARWICK WINE ESTATE

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT PINOT NOIR, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2018, LOT 2276, P43

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY CHARDONNAY, WESTERN CAPE, 2020, LOT 2283, P49

P50 VILAFONTÉ SERIOUSLY OLD DIRT

BY VILAFONTÉ, WO WESTERN CAPE, 2019, LOT 2285, P51

— CELLAR 281 BRITISH COLUMBIA

3

EDITORIAL

Under the Tuscan & South African Sun Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Co-Managing Directors

Now is the winter of our COVID discontent ­— made glorious summer by this sun of South Africa and Tuscany (apologies to Bill Shakespeare).

What better way to combat the Canadian winter blues than to cast our imagination to Tuscany and South Africa? Let Cellar 281 transport you to the gorgeous vineyards of both wine regions.

In this, the 2021 Cellar season, we have begun to feature Italian regions in much the same way we have presented France in the past. Meet Tuscany in a way you’ve never seen in an Opimian Cellar Offering. From value priced, everyday drinkers, to collectibles in wooden crates, this is our widest selection of wines from the land of Sangiovese ever. Get to know our producers Cinciano and Chioccioli Altadonna in our articles featured in the Cellar.

We were fortunate to have visited South Africa recently and met many of our wonderful Opimian winemaking partners. From the amazing community spirit at Bosman, to the tranquil picnic setting of Warwick and the vibrant energy of Groote Post, it was the trip of lifetime. Not only do South African wines represent great value, they express a terroir like none other on the planet.

Don’t miss the South African articles from our new contributor, Jennifer Ratcliffe-Wright. Her first-hand knowledge as a member of the Ratcliffe family (Warwick, Vilafonté) allows her to paint a

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CELLAR 281 — EDITORIAL

razor-sharp picture of the winemaking landscape. Jennifer recently moved to Canada and is a proud member of the Club!

Be sure to check out the fine spirits from the Chioccioli Altadonna family in the Collector’s Corner. You can expect regular offerings of spirits such as these, along with rare, collectable wines like the Vilafonté Series M mixed case, as Collector’s Corner becomes a standard feature.

To quote the Bard again, this time accurately: Good company, good wine, good welcome, can make good people.

Wishing you health and happiness throughout the holiday season and the entire year.

Michael & Greg

VIEW VIDEOS FROM OPIMIAN’S 2019 SOUTH AFRICAN TOUR ON OUR BLOG

DIRECTORS’ CUT GENERATION 8 CHENIN BLANC, WELLINGTON, 2020, LOT 2258, P33

ARISTEA PINOT NOIR, HEMEL-EN-AARDE, 2019, LOT 2271, P39

SERIOUSLY OLD DIRT

BY VILAFONTÉ, WO WESTERN CAPE, 2019, LOT 2285, P51

GREG & MICHAEL’S PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR OFFERING

GREG’S PICKS

MICHAEL’S PICKS

CINCIANO CAMPONI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2017, WOOD CASE, LOT 2216, P9

IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2013, 2014, 2015, LOT 2241, P23

WINESTILLERY TUSCAN VODKA, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, LOT 2232, P54

— CELLAR 281 DIRECTORS’ CUT

5

MASTER PIECE

What Determines the Price of Wine?

Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

As I write this piece, the LCBO is offering a bottle of 2013 Burgundy for just under $6,000. So with wine prices ranging from tens to thousands of dollars, what determines a wine’s price? Is the old adage “you get what you pay for” true? Does higher price always mean better quality?

Wines are made all around the world under a range of conditions with many factors affecting production costs. It takes approximately a kilogram of black grapes to produce one 750 ml bottle of red wine and 1.2 kg for white. The cost of grapes varies according to vineyard yields, which can fluctuate greatly between regions from 1 ton of grapes per hectare up to 40T/Ha. At very high yields, wine quality suffers, producing thin dilute wines. At the other extreme, at a certain point it becomes uneconomical to produce wine.

The appropriate yield to produce quality wine depends on grape variety, soil fertility and climate conditions, with the general notion that lower yields produce better quality grapes and hence better wine. The best wines in terms of depth of flavour often come from grapes grown on old vines, and as vines get older, yields tend to naturally decline.

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CELLAR 281 — MASTER PIECE

Once grapes are picked, there is a cost to making wine and running the winery, including energy for refrigeration, wine presses and heating. The finest wines are produced in small batches from grapes manually picked and sorted, requiring a higher number of personnel and expertise. Labour costs can change dramatically from one region to the next, hence the labour cost element to produce wine in South Africa or Chile is not the same as that in France or California. After fermentation, wines may be matured in oak barrels. Again, the cost of these varies widely with the most expensive 225L French oak barrels from a top cooper costing thousands of dollars.

On top of that, aging in barrel is also labour intensive. Alternative oak maturation using oak chips or staves do exist and can give good results but will not achieve the same wine. Then there is the cost of bottling finished wine.

Packaging costs include the cost of the bottle or other container, stopper, labels and cartons. All of these costs add to what is called the ex-cellar price.

But ex-cellar price is not always a reflection of costs. Estates like Bordeaux Classed growths or top Burgundies, where production is tiny, have a following that outstrips supply, and ex-cellar prices include a premium that reflects this.

Coming back to the cost of wine to us as wine drinkers, depending on where you live, freight, duty rates and taxes are different. I am sure all Canadians are aware of the price disparity between provinces. However, you may well be surprised at just how high the proportion of taxes is as a proportion of the final selling price. Generally, there would be a retail margin but as a not-for-profit private wine club, Opimian looks only to cover costs. So there are several aspects that influence a wine’s selling price and I haven’t even mentioned establishment costs, cost of land, financing costs or currency exchange rates.

In my role as Opimian’s Master of Wine, I am constantly evaluating wines to find what I consider to be those that offer best value. Wines are tasted in context, comparing wines with similar ex-cellar prices to select the best wines that reflect

JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR GROOTE POST SAUVIGNON BLANC, DARLING HILLS, 2020, LOT 2253, P26

EVERYDAY DRINKING

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT GSM BLEND, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2018, LOT 2275, P43

CHIOCCIOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2016, LOT 2226, P16

CELLARING POTENTIAL

SERAPHICUM ROSSO TOSCANO, IGT, 2019, LOT 2239, P21

their provenance and style. The higher the price, the more demanding I am in terms of intensity, complexity and longevity. Wines at the value price level are generally made in larger volumes in highly automated wineries. If done well, they can be good if not distinctive. At this level, once the cost of the bottle, label and packaging are taken into account there is very little left to spend on the wine itself.

Spending $30 instead of $15 on a bottle of wine gives the winemaker three times the capital to produce a wine of individual quality and personality. At this sweet spot, doubling the bottle price increases wine quality three fold so if you can afford to spend a bit more, you get more bang for your buck. Both of Opimian’s subscription case programs — Founders’ Choice and the newest The Masters Case – are at the heart of the sweet spot, offering great value, which is one of the reasons I believe they are so popular with over 1,100 and 1,600 subscribing members respectively.

Does higher price always mean better quality? In the wider world of wine, not necessarily but it is certainly what I am aiming for.

— CELLAR 281 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR

7

ITALY

TUSCANY

Cinciano POGGIBONSI

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

The Cinciano estate has a commanding position above the Elsa Valley looking across to the medieval town of San Gimignano known for its towers – these were built in the 12th and 13th centuries as symbols of wealth and power as rival noble families tried to outdo each other. Cinciano, then, was a hamlet gifted to the Bishop of Florence in 1126, but its origins probably date to Roman times. Today it is privately owned by the Garrè family who have exquisitely restored the estate’s buildings and gardens. The 150-hectare estate has 24 hectares of vineyards on very steep and rocky inclines and 40 hectares of olive groves as well as a superb osteria and accommodation.

Andrea Biagini makes wines which are understated rather than big and showy. They are great food wines that go well with typical Tuscan fare — beef, wild boar stews, herbs and tomato-based sauces — and which have good potential for long cellaring.

photo — The Tuscan sun shines on the Cinciano estate.

NEW

2216

CINCIANO CAMPONI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2017 – WOOD CASE

Sangiovese $ 57.00

$ 342.00

Camponi Riserva is produced from a plot of 40-year-old vines planted at very low density and producing very low yields. The 2017 has a mellow bouquet with cherries, menthol and blackberry aromas. It is smooth with a finelayered texture and firm acidity. It is medium to full bodied with finesse and great potential for aging. It comes in a wooden case.

2214

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2019

Sangiovese $ 37.00

2215

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2018

Sangiovese $ 222.00

$ 45.00

$ 270.00

The warm 2019 vintage has produced a deeply coloured wine at Cinciano with black cherries, black pepper, treacle, figs and nutty aromas. On the palate, it is as smooth as velvet with flavours of violet and cooked fruits complemented by musky spices. Rich and concentrated, it has no hard edges at all and will be delicious to drink for some years.

A medium- to full-bodied wine with dried fruits, raisins, figs and treacle flavours. It has some grippy tannins and a long finish. Produced from plots on the estate 15-25 years old on stony Alberese soils with some clay. Vines face southwest with grapes picked in early October. It was matured 14 to 18 months in large Slavonian oak casks.

2021-2026, M7 D9

2021-2028, M6 D8

2022-2028, M6 D8

Black cherries, figs, pepper

18°C

Dried fruits, figs

18°C

Mellow, blackberries, cherry menthol

18°C

Cooked fruits, violet, musk

14%

Raisins, treacle

14.5%

Black fruits

15%

Aged Parmigiano-Reggiano

photo — Harvesting has its perks! A team member enjoys freshly picked Sangiovese grapes.

Roasted flank steak with fall fruit sauce

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

— TUSCANY CINCIANO

9

Q&A

Andrea Biagini | Cinciano

By Karen Etches, Italian Wine Scholar

Andrea Biagini has been working as the wine production chief of Cinciano since 2017, managing all wine processes, from the field to bottle, in concert with the winemaker consultant Stefano Porcinai. Stefano brings an extensive knowledge of the Chianti Classico area and in particular its wines and how to enhance the best of the Sangiovese grape.

WHAT DOES YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH OPIMIAN MEAN TO YOU?

CINCIANO CAMPONI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2017, WOOD CASE, LOT 2216, P9

Opimian is a great opportunity and an awesome partner for Cinciano to export its wines in Canada. We reached some great goals together and I believe that we will reach more. In addition, I have the opportunity to work virtually with several awesome people from Opimian and I have a marvelous relationship with them.

To sum it up, I think that Opimian is based on a great strong team which perfectly suits the philosophy of Cinciano.

WHEN DID YOU REALIZE THAT PRODUCING WINE WAS YOUR PASSION?

I started to study agriculture from high school and, during these 5 years, I went deeper into the wine production and I fell in love with it, mainly in Tuscany. I then graduated in viticulture and winemaking from the University of Florence and, after that, I moved to Udine to get a specialized degree in winemaking, in 2015. My aim was to return to Tuscany and, especially, working in the Chianti Classico region, one of the most famous wine regions in the world. When I had the opportunity to get a job at Cinciano I said “Yes, here I come!”

WHICH OF YOUR CURRENT WINES ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT?

Considering Cinciano and its history I choose the Riserva Camponi (lot 2216); it’s a cru made from grapes from the oldest vineyard of Cinciano. We produce only 3,000 bottles from almost 3 hectares of vines, but it still works well! It is an old style Sangiovese and represents a real example of the history of Sangiovese and, obviously, of Cinciano.

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CELLAR 281 — Q&A

WHAT FOOD PAIRINGS WOULD YOU SUGGEST WITH YOUR WINES?

Our wines go perfectly with roasted, grilled and stuffed meat (you have to try the reds with a T-bone steak, it’s so delicious!) or aged cheese (pecorino cheese). Actually you can pair our wines with whatever you want but, the most important thing, is sharing them with the best company you may have. Wine is sharing, sharing is love.

TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR OLIVE OIL?

Beyond the wine production, we have also 45 hectares of olive trees: it’s a tough business but we take care of our olive oil as our baby and it is so special, with a strong flavor and a nice spicy taste that make it so recognizable. We are so proud of it!

WHAT ARE YOU DOING WHEN YOU ARE NOT MAKING WINE OR GROWING GRAPES?

When not working, I love to travel with my wife and look forward after the end of the pandemic, to continue to travel with

my new son. We have been together for 10 years, and we have travelled to more than 30 countries all over the world.

Travel is the best way to be open minded and having the chance to change our point of view on several things and understand how we are lucky to be born on the easy side of the world.

WHAT BOTTLE OF WINE DO YOU HAVE OPEN IN YOUR KITCHEN?

It’s so easy to say Cinciano. At my home I have to take a pause from red wines so I love to taste white wines, mainly if they come from Tuscany, also Friuli, remembering my life there during my university studying period in Udine, or from abroad, from Germany or New Zealand, where I worked for a few months as a harvest cellar worker. I like to taste anything I haven’t tried before or trade Cinciano wines with other wines, from wineries where my friends are working — it is so fun!

Vin Santo is a Tuscan speciality dessert wine.

Often served with cantucci – a typical Tuscan almond biscuit which is dunked in the wine – or aged cheeses. 2011 has lots of appealing aromas and flavours: barley sugar, honey, vanilla, almonds, dried apricots, sultanas and wood come together in this sweet dessert wine. The sweetness, alcohol and acidity combine perfectly and the whole just remains on the tongue. Grapes came from 40-yearold Malvasia and Trebbiano vines co-planted in the same vineyard with the Sangiovese that goes into Camponi – previously, it was common to mix white and red vines in Chianti vineyards. The white grapes are harvested separately; the quantities produced are tiny and left to dry for several months then pressed and the juice put into 100- to 150-litre barrels known as “caratello” made from local chestnut, cherry or acacia wood.

The barrel is filled to two-thirds then sealed and left untouched for five years.

CINCIANO PIETRAFORTE, IGP TOSCANA, 2016 – WOOD CASE

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese $ 59.00

2217

$ 354.00 $ 135.00

2218

$ 405.00 NEW

2220

CINCIANO VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOC, 2011

Malvasia, Trebbiano $ 62.00

$ 186.00

2021-2026, M8 D9 Vanilla, barley sugar, sultanas

6°C

Mellow honey and vanilla, nutty, dried apricot, lemon, [S]

16.5%

Cantucci (Tuscan almond biscuit)

The only red wine produced at Cinciano that is not 100% Sangiovese, Pietraforte is based on equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Sangiovese. The 2016 is deep plum in colour with bright fruit aromas of plums and cherries. It remains youthful on the palate with intense flavours of red cherries, strawberry jam and vanilla. It has a grainy texture leading to a chewy finish and lingering bitter cherry flavours. It was matured for 12 months in medium-toasted French oak barrels and larger vats. It will continue to develop.

2022-2030, M6 D7 Plum, cherries, wet stone

18°C

Strawberry jam, red cherry, vanilla

14.5%

Lamb burgers with plum salsa

— TUSCANY CINCIANO

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VERTICAL CASE 2219

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG

$ 40.00

$ 240.00

A mixed case of three quite different vintages from a climatic point of view. Each wine was made in much the same way: with Sangiovese grapes harvested by hand at the end of September, fermented in tank with maceration on skins for 20 days then subsequent aging in large Slavonian oak casks for 8 to 10 months. The difference you will taste is the impact of growing conditions as well as the age of the wine.

TWO BOTTLES EACH 2016, 2017, 2018

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2017 CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2016

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2018 Sangiovese

Sangiovese

A smooth medium-bodied wine hugely enjoyable now. It has aromas of cola, tarragon and black cherries, all of which follow through onto the palate. Supple with cherry finish, it reflects the great quality of 2016 vintage.

A well-structured wine with more weight and body than the 2018. It has earthy dark fruits, graphite notes and treacle flavours. A dry year, the vines struggled under drought conditions so that very small berries were produced with high sugar and flavour concentration. Dark and cooked fruit characters with denser structure characterize the year.

2021-2025, M7 D9

Starting to evolve with mellow fruit aromas combined with meaty notes leading to a smooth palate. It is fine in texture with ripe dark fruits, bitter almond and oranges on the finish. A lot more rain fell in 2018 leading to a lighter style.

2021-2026, M6 D8

2021-2026, M6 D8

Cola, black cherries, tarragon

18°C

Earthy, graphite, dark fruits

18°C

Mellow, meaty fruits

18°C

Cherries

14%

Black fruit, treacle

14.5%

Orange, bitter almond

14.5%

Grilled tarragon mustard chicken

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Sangiovese

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Grilled sausages with cannellini beans

Roast cod

READ OUR Q&A WITH THE CHIOCCIOLIS ON OUR BLOG

PRODUCERS’ CORNER

The Chioccioli Family Chioccioli Altadonna

The Chioccioli Altadonna family has been in the wine world for two generations, and their passion for the trade is reaffirmed every day through their work in the vineyards. Their vineyards are located on a unique terroir in Tuscany and the Chianti Classico region in Italy.

Chioccioli’s team is made up of family members. The project was born from the desire of two brothers, Niccolò and Enrico, to create a product that was the purest expression of the Tuscan terroir. Their passion for wine can be compared to a spontaneous fermentation! Under the careful guidance of their father, Stefano Chioccioli, a winemaker consultant for the last 35 years and one of the most esteemed and internationally awarded oenologist and agronomist, the brothers are involved in all the phases of production, from the vineyard up to the cellar.

Niccolò, the older bother and oenologist, graduated from the same university as his father. He embodies the family passion for great winemaking. “It was my father who stimulated my curiosity, who encouraged me to try and distinguish between the multitudes of aromas and scents of Italian grapes, to recognize their qualities and defects. He taught me which are the fundamental elements to make a great wine in harmony with nature”.

Enrico, a former lawyer, became Master Distiller after an experience in a whiskey distillery in New York City and in Cognac. He now personally takes care of Winestillery, the combination of a winery and distillery set to be a major player in the family business. The team is completed by their mother Anna, who is responsible for customer service, and their younger Ginevra, a biologist who analyzes and studies the biological components of the soil and grapes.

The Chioccioli Winestillery may have its roots in a very traditional region, but it produces unconventional Tuscan products, such as gin, vodka, and vermouth. These spirits are unique because they are the synthesis of the terroir. “All our spirits are produced from distilled wine together with traditionally Tuscan botanicals. We conceived, distilled and bottled every product,” says Enrico. Winestillery is a radical project. It lives and evolves with the experimentation and the back-and-forth between the highest oenological knowledge and the finest art of distillation. That’s why the family has embraced a holistic production philosophy, carved in their Grape-to-Glass Manifesto, in which each of their products is “tailored from the harvest to the glass”.

When asked about what Opimian members should know about their family, Niccolò answered: “We were born and raised in a region where craft and nature have found a perfect equilibrium for centuries. Our mission is to interpret and embrace this extraordinary heritage of nature and culture.

We want to be guardians of territories and ancient traditions, while at the same time trying to be pioneers and explore the boundaries of each category of wine and spirits. Our desire is to share this passionate path with you.”

STEFANO’S PICK

NICCOLÒ’S PICK

ENRICO’S PICK

CHIOCCIOLI CARISMANTE CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2015, LOT 2228, P17

CHIOCCIOLI FOSSIFÒCO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2015, LOT 2227, P17

ALTADONNA ASSALTO, IGT TOSCANA, 2016, LOT 2225, P16

— CELLAR 281 PRODUCERS’ CORNER

13

ITALY

TUSCANY

Chioccioli Altadonna Chioccioli Altadonna Estate is a family winery run by Niccolò and Enrico under the watchful eye of their father Stefano Chioccioli (one of Italy’s most highly regarded agronomists and winemaking consultants). This is a relatively young winery established in 2010 in the heart of Chianti Classico, in Gaiole. The family farms 18 hectares of vines located around the winery and in Greve and Quercegrossa. Niccolò, who followed in his father’s footsteps graduating as an oenologist, makes wines that are elegant and concentrated. Unusual for the region, he uses small French oak barrels and amphorae for fermentation and aging. His brother, Enrico, trained as a lawyer then subsequently developed an interest in spirits and became a master distiller. He designed the copper pot still he calls “Bacco” and uses it to produce small batches of gin and vodka from wine.

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

2222

ALTADONNA ORAROSA VINO SPUMANTE BRUT ROSÉ, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, NV Sangiovese $ 34.00

2223

ALTADONNA CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2018

Sangiovese, Merlot $ 204.00

Tuscany is best known for its red wines, so the Altadonna Orarosa sparkling produced from Sangiovese has novelty value as well as being super tasty. Baby pink in colour, it has subtle flavours of blackberries and blackcurrants with a touch of herbal leaf.

It is dry with a creamy mousse and elegant long finish.

$ 35.00

$ 210.00

A deliciously complex wine with ginger, nutmeg, vanilla oak, spruce and cola over a red cherry background. 2018 Altadonna Chianti Classico is medium bodied yet relatively light with soft tannins and a refined fresh redcurrant finish. Predominantly Sangiovese with 10% Merlot, it was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Blackberries, blackcurrants

6°C

Elegant creamy mousse, [D]

12%

Crostata di frutta

2022-2025, M6 D8 Ginger, nutmeg, vanilla, red cherries

18°C

Cola, redcurrants

14%

Salumi with fennel

photo — Brothers Niccolò (left) and Enrico taste

a barrel sample in their barrel cellar.

— TUSCANY CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA

15

NEW

2224

ALTADONNA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2017

ALTADONNA ASSALTO, IGT TOSCANA, 2016

Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Sangiovese, Merlot $ 46.00

2225

$ 276.00

$ 58.00

$ 348.00

A mellow bouquet with ripe cooked cherry and black fruits, cherry menthol, vanilla and pine, it is intense with immediate appeal and good depth on the nose. On the palate it is elegant with lots of red-cherry flavour and vanilla.

Sangiovese with 5% Merlot, the wine was left in contact with skins for an extended 25 days then matured in French oak barrels for 16 months.

Assalto is a “Super Tuscan”, classified as an IGT wine due to the inclusion of 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the assemblage which give structure and backbone.

Vanilla, nutmeg and baking spices over cooked-fruit aromas lead to a grippy palate with nice red cherry flavours.

Produced from the high quality 2016 vintage, it is layered, mellow and rich with a chewy finish and will continue to develop.

2021-2027, M7 D9

2021-2028, M7 D8

Cherry menthol, vanilla, cooked fruits, pine

18°C

Baking spices, nutmeg, cooked fruits

18°C

Vanilla, red cherries

14.5%

Red cherries, vanilla

14.5%

Grilled elk venison with blueberry gastrique

Veal Marsala

NEW

2226

CHIOCCIOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2016 Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah $ 45.00

$ 270.00

My favourite wine in the line up – although they all showed well – it has a complex perfumed nose with dark chocolate gingers, vanilla, candied orange peel and orange blossom. It is smooth and supple with flavours of blood oranges, cherries and bitter chocolate. Produced from a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah.

2021-2028, M7 D9 Dark chocolate gingers, candied orange peel

18°C

Cherries, orange, bitter chocolate

14.5%

Roast lamb with mushrooms

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

photo — The old Tuscan saying “cut what hangs” particularly resonates in September at Chioccioli Altadonna. These are busy harvest days at the winery.

DISCOVER CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA’S PREMIUM SPIRITS ON PAGE 56

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CHIOCCIOLI FOSSIFÒCO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2015

NEW

2228 Sangiovese, Merlot $ 76.00

$ 456.00

Starting to develop some nice tertiary undergrowth characters which complement aromas of red cherries and vanilla. It has a fine dense texture and is medium bodied with bitter fruits on the finish and a juicy acidity giving length and cellaring potential.

It was fermented in oak barrels where it spent a further 18 months: although the oak is evident, it is not overly dominant.

This is a well-balanced, smooth wine which will continue to evolve in bottle.

CHIOCCIOLI CARISMANTE CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, DOCG, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, 2015 Sangiovese $ 92.00

$ 552.00

The top of the range, Carismante is a Gran Selezione wine respresenting Sangiovese in its purest guise. The 2015 is youthful, bright ruby in colour with intense aromas of raspberries, red cherry, menthol and vanilla.

Mellow and supple on the palate, it has an extremely fine texture which is layered and creamy. This is a super elegant wine, absolutely delicious now with a long smoky finish. Grapes came from the Quercegrossa vineyard. Meticulous green harvest, picking and manual sorting of the grapes was followed by fermentation and maturation in French oak barrels for 24 months.

2021-2028, M7 D8

2021-2030, M6 D8

Undergrowth, red cherries, vanilla

18°C

Raspberries, red cherry menthol

18°C

Bitter fruits

14.5%

Mellow, smoky

14.5%

Linguine with Chianti and fava beans

photo — Gorgeous Syrah grapes on the sorting table during harvest.

Pork braciole with a rich tomato pan sauce

— TUSCANY CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA

17

ITALY

TUSCANY CANTINA VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO DI SCANSANO

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Cantina del Morellino di Scansano is located in the southern Maremma.

Maremma, coming from maretima (meaning “close to the sea”), has a very different landscape to the traditional Chianti Classico region: gone are the sharp twists and turns, steep hillsides and high-altitude vineyards. Maremma is flatter on reclaimed coastal lands which were previously swamps and has a more moderate, warmer climate. It is well suited to Tuscany’s signature grape — Sangiovese — but produces fresher and fleshier wines than those produced inland. Winemaking is also more recent, going back several decades rather than centuries.

Founded in the small medieval town of Scansano in 1972, the Cantina has a strong focus on quality and protecting the environment.

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2235 2237

SCANTIANUM VERMENTINO TOSCANA, IGT, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2019

Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc $ 28.00

$ 168.00

Bright nectarine fruit aromas lead to a smooth supple palate brimming with fresh fruit flavours. This is delicious now! A touch – just 3% Sauvignon Blanc – was added to Vermentino. Grapes were harvested and preserved at low temperature with fermentation in-tank and aging for three months on fine lees.

VIGNA BENEFIZIO MORELLINO DI SCANSANO, DOCG, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2019

Sangiovese $ 34.00

$ 204.00

Vigna Benefizio has more weight and depth, while quite primary in style. It has fruity aromas of blueberries and fresh blackcurrant flavours leading to bitter cherries on the finish. It is medium bodied with a grainy texture and nice concentration.

This wine was produced from 100% Sangiovese planted 15 years ago on sandy silty soils at 150 metres. It was matured for six months in one- and two-year-old French oak barrels.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9 Nectarines

6°C

Floral, blueberries

18°C

Fresh fruits, smooth, [D]

13%

Bitter cherries, blackcurrants

14.5%

Pork tenderloin with nectarine condiment,

Cured meats and cheese

— TUSCANY CANTINA VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO DI SCANSANO

19

2236

VIN DEL FATTORE SANGIOVESE TOSCANO, IGT, GOVERNO ALL’USO TOSCANO, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2019 Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo $ 32.00

$ 192.00

NEW

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ROGGIANO, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO, DOCG, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2019

SCANTIANUM SANGIOVESE TOSCANA, IGT, VIGNAIOLI MORELLINO SCANSANO, 2019 Sangiovese, Alicante, Ciliegiolo, Merlot

Sangiovese, Alicante $ 30.00

2238

$ 180.00

Ripe plums, red cherries, floral rose notes with sweet candy floss and dried rosemary make this an interesting and flavoursome wine. It is medium bodied with supple tannins and a graphite edge. Based on Sangiovese, the addition of 5% Alicante brings the floral notes.

$ 28.00

While the label says Sangiovese, the wine actually includes 5% Alicante, 5% Ciliegiolo and 5% Merlot all from vines planted five to seven years ago. The result is an intensely aromatic wine with red berries, raspberries and strawberries.

It is medium bodied with nice depth of flavour.

2021-2024, M8 D9

Produced from younger vines planted at lower altitude, Vin del Fattore Governo includes 10% of Ciliegiolo grape – now proven to be a parent of Sangiovese through DNA analysis. It is named for its cherry aromas. It has a naturally low acidity and is often used to soften wines.

Floral, blackcurrant and apple flavours emerge from this medium-bodied wine.

The smooth mid palate leads to a grainy finish. Sangiovese was hand-picked in early October and dried to lose 15% weight before fermentation with short time on skins.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2021-2024, M8 D9

Red cherries, rose, dried rosemary

18°C

Raspberries, strawberries

16°C

Floral, apples, blackcurrant

18°C

Dark fruit, plums, graphite edge

13.5%

Fresh ripe red fruits

13%

Floral

14.5%

Roasted pheasant with apricots

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$ 168.00

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Ribollita with prosciutto

Rigatoni with meat sauce

photo — Founded in 1972, the Cantina now has 160 members whose vineyards spread on the hills around Scansano, reaching a total of 600 hectares.

2239

SERAPHICUM ROSSO TOSCANO, IGT, 2019

Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 30.00

$ 180.00

2022-2028, M6 D7 Fresh oak, red & black fruits

18°C

Vanilla, bitter cherry, pencil lead

13.5%

One of my favourite wines in the whole tasting, Seraphicum Rosso Toscano 2019 has aromas of fresh oak and vanilla over a red and black fruit background. It is medium bodied with a firm, slightly austere finish that will mellow with time. Flavours of bitter cherry, pencil lead and mineral notes all emerge creating a wine with balance and breeding that should develop nicely.

It is a blend of 75% Sangiovese with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine finished the alcoholic fermentation in barrel and was matured a further six months then bottled in March 2020.

Roast beef

SERAPHICUM Caterina Sacchet uses a lot of oak in her wines and oaky flavours are very present in both of these. This oak manifests itself with a spectrum of aromas and flavours, creating complex wines with layers of flavour and great depth. Caterina sources most of her barrels from Seguin Moreau in France, using mainly French oak for Sangiovese and some American oak for Cabernet Sauvignon. All are medium toast.

2240

SERAPHICUM CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2019

Sangiovese, Canaiolo $ 36.00

$ 216.00

Allspice, cinnamon, coconut and vanilla combine with cooked fruit aromas. This is a medium-bodied wine with red cherries and black fruits. It is rich and flavoursome with great depth and a long presence in the mouth. Produced from 80% Sangiovese with 20% Canaiolo, all matured in medium-toast French oak barrels.

2022-2028, M6 D7 Coconut, vanilla, cinnamon, cooked fruits

18°C

Oaky spices, red and bitter cherries

13.5%

Spiced roast lamb

— TUSCANY SERAPHICUM

21

COL IL VELTRO D’ORCIA Il Veltro vineyards are planted in one of the warmest parts of the Montalcino region on the Sant’Angelo hill, overlooking the Orcia River. The wines produced are traditional in style with raisins, dried fruits and vanilla flavours. Often matured in large oak casks known as “botti”, they have good cellaring potential. Il Veltro vines are all organically farmed. The vineyard location benefits from the proximity of Monte Amiata which reaches 1,700 metres and protects against summer storms. The climate is closer to that of Tuscany’s coastal regions than other inland parts, with the vines planted at an average of 300-metres altitude, facing south-southwest.

2242

IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2016

Brunello (Sangiovese) $ 62.00

$ 372.00

Mellow vanilla, redcurrants with a touch of grass are subtle on the nose with more red fruits emerging on the palate. It is medium bodied with some grippy tannins and lingering cherry flavours. The growing season was off to an early start in 2016 due to a mild winter but was slowed somewhat by spring rains. The ensuing warm dry summer led to perfect grape maturity and another great vintage following the success of 2015.

2243

IL VELTRO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC, 2019

Brunello (Sangiovese) $ 39.00

A smooth wine with delightful fresh cherries, red apples and lots of vanilla flavours. This is a wine for earlier drinking.

Some dried fruit flavours emerge on the palate and lead to a grippy finish. It was matured 12 months in Slavonian oak vats.

2022-2030, M6 D7

2021-2026, M7 D9

Mellow, vanilla, redcurrant, grass

18°C

Red apples, vanilla, dried fruits

18°C

Bitter cherries

14.5%

Cherries, raisins, vanilla

14.5%

Chianina rib steak with redcurrant sauce

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$ 234.00

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Provolone with dried fruit and nuts

photo — The beautiful Il Veltro winery is located in one of the warmest parts of the Montalcino.

IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2013

Brunello (Sangiovese)

2241

Ginger, truffles, black treacle and smoke precede a relatively light- to medium-bodied wine. It is supple with flavours of vanilla and dried fruits combined with a lively acidity and lingering bitter cherry finish.

2021-2026, M7 D9 Smoke, ginger, truffle, black treacle

18°C

Figs, vanilla, red cherries

14.5%

Tomato-rich cioppino

IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2015 IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2014

Brunello (Sangiovese)

2014 is decidedly more expressive and youthful than the 2013. Sweet red fruits are complemented by musky notes and a graphite edge. It has good mid-palate weight with mellow woody, vanilla and fruit flavours. The season was marked by a wet summer in June and July but finished with harvest under sunny September skies.

IL VELTRO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG

$ 85.00

$ 255.00

Brunello wines have the potential for long aging. Produced from Brunello grapes, a local selection of Sangiovese clones developed over the years, these are traditional wines, matured in large casks made from Slavonic and French Allier oak for three years. The style is subtle with complex flavours that unfurl over the years to reveal truffley woodland flavours.

ONE BOTTLE EACH 2013, 2014, 2015

Brunello (Sangiovese)

2015 is considered by some to be one of the best vintages of Brunello of all time. An early harvest, due to warm dry conditions during June and July, produced small thick-skinned grapes. Il Veltro 2015 has some meaty aromas combined with spices and baked apples. It is youthful and was pretty closed at the time of tasting but well structured with some good mid-palate fruit indicating its potential for cellaring. Nuts, raisins, figs and tarry flavours emerge with some aeration.

2021-2028, M6 D8

2022-2030, M6 D7

Sweet red fruits, musk, graphite

18°C

Savoury, baked apples, spices

18°C

Mellow vanilla, fruits, woody

14.5%

Raisins, figs, tar

14.5%

Stewed rabbit with capers

VERTICAL CASE

Prune-stuffed roast turkey breast

— TUSCANY IL VELTRO

23

NEW

2244

NEW

ROSSO DI MONTEPULCIANO TOSCANA, DOC, FRANGIOSA, 2018

Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Merlot $ 35.00

$ 210.00

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO TOSCANA, DOCG, FRANGIOSA, 2016

Sangiovese, Mammolo $ 51.00

2246

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO TOSCANA RISERVA, DOCG, FRANGIOSA, 2012

Sangiovese $ 306.00

Freshly cut hay and cherry aromas precede a supple palate. This is a dense wine, fine in texture with sour cherry and redcurrant flavours. It is youthful with supple tannins and lingering flavours of bitter cherries and no use of oak.

A lush wine, deliciously mature for drinking now and in coming years. Earthy aromas are complemented by ripe dark fruits. On the palate, it is soft and juicy with a smooth feel and nice mid-palate weight.

More flavours of fresh ripe and cooked fruits lead to a long finish. Grapes grown at 320 metres around La Ciarliana and Ascianello were harvested by hand in late September and early October. It was matured in large Slavonian oak casks and French oak barrels.

2021-2026, M7 D8

2021-2028, M8 D9

$ 66.00

$ 396.00

An intense and complex bouquet with meaty aromas, pine, undergrowth and liquorice. This is a smooth wine from start to finish with good presence in the mouth.

It is full bodied with flavours of blackcurrant, smoke and raisins which linger. Produced 100% from Sangiovese, it was matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks.

2021-2026, M7 D9

Freshly cut hay, cherries

18°C

Earth, leather, dark fruit

18°C

Meaty aromas, pine, undergrowth

18°C

Redcurrants, sour cherries

14.5%

Cooked fruits, red liquorice

15%

Blackcurrant, smoke, raisins

14%

Penne with a Parmigiano sauce

FRANGIOSA Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is one of Tuscany’s finest classic wine regions located around the historic hilltop town of Montepulciano in the south of the region. The town sits on a limestone ridge at 605 metres, with vineyards planted on surrounding slopes at 250-600 metres. Luigi Frangiosa is a third-generation grape grower who grew up in the vineyards and studied at the local agricultural school. He produces dense-textured wines from his 13 hectares planted on a mixture of soils – clay, red soils, tuff and marl.

Sangiovese is known in the region as Prugnolo Gentile and can be blended with up to 30% of other varieties to produce DOCG wines.

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2245

NEW

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Sage-seasoned roast Guinea hen

Roast wild boar with blackberry preserve

DISCOVER MORE TUSCAN WINES ONLINE, LOTS 2249-2250

NEW

NEW

GIULIO DE’ MEDICI 2247

GIULIO DE’ MEDICI TOSCANA, IGT, 2019

Sangiovese, Merlot, Canaiolo $ 24.00

$ 144.00

Intense coffee aromas lead to a smooth palate, with red cherries and supple tannins.

It is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 5% Canaiolo. Great for everyday drinking.

2248

GIULIO DE’ MEDICI CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2018

Sangiovese $ 36.00

A supple easy-drinking Chianti Classico with raisins and dried fig aromas. It is medium bodied with dark fruits, violets and a supple bitter cherry finish and was matured in large Slavonian casks for 12 months.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2021-2024, M8 D9 Coffee

18°C

Raisins, dried figs

18°C

Red cherries

13%

Dark fruits, violets, bitter cherry

13.5%

Oven-baked rigatoni with eggplant

photo — Sangiovese is synonymous with the red wines of Tuscany.

$ 216.00

Bucatini with fresh tomato sauce

— TUSCANY GIULIO DE’ MEDICI

25

SOUTH AFRICA

Groote Post DARLING Groote Post in the Darling Hills on the Cape’s West Coast, close to the cooling Atlantic, is on the site of an 18th-century farm. Owned by the Pentz family, it covers 3,000 hectares with vines planted on the south-facing upper slopes of Kapokberg, between 200 and 450 metres. Soils are deep with good water retention and no irrigation is used. Built in 1809, the homestead was once home to Hildagonda Duckitt (1839-1905), the “Dame of Cape Cuisine.” As well as producing wine, the farm rears livestock and grows fresh produce and has a restaurant, “Hilda’s Kitchen,” using these fresh ingredients. Wines are produced by Lukas Wentzel who also lives on the farm with his family.

2255

GROOTE POST SHIRAZ, DARLING HILLS, 2019

SOUTH AFRICA HAS MORE THAN 300 YEARS OF WINEMAKING HISTORY.

Shiraz $ 29.00

$ 174.00

2021-2024, M7 D9 Blackcurrants, undergrowth, cut grass

18°C

Jammy fruits, vanilla cream

14.5%

Roasted pork loin with balsamic glaze

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

A youthful fruity blackcurrant aroma is enhanced by touches of undergrowth, cut grass and incense in the background. Shiraz is one of Lukas’s favorite varieties to make and to drink. Grapes were harvested in two stages – to capture a spectrum of flavours – then fermented, some in open-top vats with punching down and others in closed stainlesssteel tanks. On the palate, it has supple jammy fruits with vanilla cream and was matured for 14 months in oak with 25% new.

2253

GROOTE POST SAUVIGNON BLANC, DARLING HILLS, 2020

Sauvignon Blanc $ 150.00

$ 25.00

2254

GROOTE POST MERLOT, DARLING HILLS, 2018

Merlot $ 29.00

$ 174.00

2021-2024, M7 D9 Oaky, coconut, blackcurrant spearmint

18°C

Blackberries, vanilla

14.5%

Dark chocolate tart

photo — Groote Post is home to 2,000 hectares of conservation-worthy flora and fauna, which can be observed on a Groote Post Farm Drive!

A medium- to fullbodied Merlot with intense aromas of coconut, black wine gums and spearmint. It is dense and structured with emerging flavours of sour blackberries, blackcurrants and vanilla. Malolactic fermentation was carried out in 300-litre French oak barrels using 35% new oak, 50% second fill and 15% third fill and the wine left to mature.

An immediate Coup de Coeur, winemaker Lukas Wentzel has produced a Sauvignon Blanc with intense elderflower and delicious lime cream aromas. It is soft and flavoursome with a very long finish.

The Sauvignon vines are now 20 years old, planted at 250 metres and south facing.

Grapes were harvested in the morning before the heat, hand sorted and then left for 6-16 hours on skin contact prior to fermentation.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Elderflower, lime cream

6°C

Limes gums, [D]

13.5%

Grilled oysters with lemon

— SOUTH AFRICA GROOTE POST

27

FROM TUSCANY NEW LOWER PRICE

2229

SOGATIA CHIANTI RISERVA, DOCG, 2018

Sangiovese $ 22.00

$ 132.00

Savoury meaty aromas mingle with raisins, redcurrant and liquorice flavours. 2018 Sogatia Chianti Riserva is light bodied with some tannin structure emerging on the finish giving presence on the palate.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Savoury meaty, raisins

14°C

Redcurrants, liquorice

13.5%

Pizza Margherita

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

TOP VALUE WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING LAST DAY TO ORDER IS JANUARY 18!

A light-bodied Italian red and two excellent blends from South Africa – these top-value wines are the perfect addition to your collection! Brighten up your weeknight dinners with these bottles and add a little “oomph” to your table.

FROM SOUTH AFRICA

NEW LOWER PRICE

NEW LOWER PRICE

2251

THE OLD MAN’S BLEND SAUVIGNON BLANC, CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, GROOTE POST, 2020 Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc $ 17.00

$ 204.00

2020 has produced some of the best Groote Post white wines ever with lots of tropical fruit flavours. The Old Man’s Blend has aromas of gooseberry and fresh apples.

It is smooth with a touch of spritz and deliciously supple.

2252

THE OLD MAN’S BLEND MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SHIRAZ, WESTERN CAPE, GROOTE POST, 2020 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz $ 18.00

$ 216.00

Smoky aromas, bonfire and ash are complemented by leafy herbal notes. Fruit comes through on the palate with ripe red plums, a supple mid palate and smoky finish. Each grape variety was picked at maturity and fermented separately. After blending, the wine was matured with oak for eight months.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Fresh apples and some gooseberry

6°C

Leafy herbal notes, bonfire

18°C

Supple fruits, [D]

13.5%

Red fruits, smoke

14%

Salad of Cheddar, apple and grilled chicken breast

Hangar steak with roasted onion soubise

— TUSCANY & SOUTH AFRICA TOP VALUE WINES

29

DID YOU KNOW?

The Harvest and Industry in South Africa Right Now

By Jenny Ratcliffe-Wright, CWM

Many industries have been hit hard by the pandemic, but fewer have been worse affected than the South African wine industry.

Nick Pentz from Groote Post winery in Darling describes the situation: “South Africa followed a hard lockdown at the end of March until the end of May. Alcohol sales were totally prohibited in this period, moving to online sales only, and then onto very restricted trading hours in the following months. South Africa has been one of the few wine producing countries to have followed the prohibition route, which has had devastating consequences for many wineries.” Richard Kershaw of Kershaw Wines in Elgin says that although exports were later allowed, the disruption to shipping availability left many producers with shipments that were ready to go, but were delayed for weeks, if not months.

Mike Ratcliffe, managing partner at Vilafonté winery is thankful that prohibition is long behind them and is pleased to see many top brands having a significant bounce-back to levels even higher than before Covid. Kershaw

commented that the alcohol ban hit wine lovers hard and many people ended up drinking wines from their cellars. The upside is that he has seen an increase in consumers buying wines by the case rather than single bottles, and all consumers are trading up to higher quality wines. Christiane von Arnim from Warwick Wines in Stellenbosch added positively that these challenging circumstances really highlighted the innovative spirit of producers who quickly adapted to the changing environment through new routes to market.

Perhaps nature was on their side delivering an excellent, if not regionally varied, vintage for 2020; one that is highly likely to be collectable as a memory of an unprecedented time.

The Wine Harvest Report 2020 documented the excellent vintage, which will deliver exceptional wines this year due to favourable conditions throughout

the season. The summer had moderate temperatures during the ripening period, with the absence of characteristic heat peaks. These conditions boded well for the flavour retention in the grapes.

Mike Ratcliffe reports on the vintage in Stellenbosch saying it has the potential to be one of the greatest in South African history. A convergence of significant volume, low berry variability, high concentration and generally exceptional quality is a rare area of bright sunlight for the industry.

Warwick, also in Stellenbosch, has a similar outlook, describing 2020 was one of the best vintages in recent history from a quality point of view. The vintage at Groote Post is one that will be remembered as the drought breaker with better rains in 2019 following a 3-year drought in the Cape.

Richard Kershaw, a Master of Wine, experienced the harvest as an average year albeit very different from the previous few years of drought. “From what I am seeing as the wines mature in my cellar, is an exceptional year for Chardonnay and very good for Pinot and Syrah, where the wines are showing excellent fruit expression similar to 2016 but with a linear chiseled edge reminiscent of 2017.”

The 2020 harvest was challenging in so many ways but the top wineries used their expertise, strength and pure grit to create memorable, collectable, world-class wines.

Jenny Ratcliffe-Wright is a Cape Wine Master, South Africa’s highest qualification in wine education. She was born into the wine industry in South Africa in a family of wine producers in Stellenbosch.

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WARWICK THE FIRST LADY CHARDONNAY, WESTERN CAPE, 2020, LOT 2283, P49

NEW

2257

GROOTE POST RIESLING, DARLING HILLS, 2019

SEASALTER SAUVIGNON BLANC, SEMILLON, DARLING HILLS, CRAFTED BY GROOTE POST, 2020

Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Riesling $ 26.00

2256

$ 156.00

A fabulous Riesling, it will be fascinating to try this against Gerd Stepp’s wines from the Pfalz in Germany (coming in June with C286) . It is honeyed, steely with green apple, jasmine and marzipan aromas. Riesling was field-grafted onto a block of Cabernet Sauvignon vines 13 years ago. Fermented in-tank, the fermentation was stopped to leave some residual sugar giving an off-dry wine. It is medium bodied with a firm acidity creating a perfect harmony.

$ 174.00

$ 29.00

You can smell the sea air in this wine – it seems the vineyards overlook the icy Atlantic.

Fresh seaweed and iodine combine with elderflower and grapefruit aromas. Produced from a specific Sauvignon plot within the estate, the pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc is tempered by 12% Semillon giving a smooth supple palate, elegant with lingering elderflower and tropical fruit flavours. Part of the wine was fermented in French oak barrels and left on lees for four months, adding extra complexity and length of flavour.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

Honey, green apples, steely

6°C

Elderflower, grapefruit, sea air

6°C

Off dry, concentrated, [SD]

13%

Elderflower, [D]

14%

Apple pie

Sole with tropical fruit salsa

— SOUTH AFRICA GROOTE POST

31

SOUTH AFRICA

Bosman Family Vineyards

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

WELLINGTON The Bosman family has lived on the farm in Lelienfontein, close to Wellington, for over two centuries. More recently, as owners of one the largest vine nurseries in South Africa, the family were instrumental in improving vineyard planting material in the Cape and the consequent step-up in South African wine quality generally. When I first visited the Cape in the early 1990s, many vines had viruses affecting their ability to ripen grapes and creating off flavours, searing acidity levels and very harsh tannins. Bosman wines – made by Corlea Fourie and her young team of winemakers – benefit from this in-depth understanding of vines and viticulture to produce high-quality grapes on their farms in Wellington and Hermanus. The family also has an impressive environmental and social record with the largest-ever transfer of land ownership to workers living on the farm. For every bottle of Generation 8, Adama and Fairtade wine, a percentage is paid to the Adama Fund administered by farm employees to improve social, economic and environmental conditions in their community.

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CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

photo — Corlea Fourie, winemaker at Bosman, is a Chenin Blanc junkie, and is credited with saving Bosman’s 1952 Chenin vineyard from being uprooted.

NEW LOWER PRICE

2258

NEW LOWER PRICE

GENERATION 8 CHENIN BLANC, WELLINGTON, 2020

Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc $ 21.00

$ 126.00

2259

NEW LOWER PRICE

GENERATION 8 MERLOT, WELLINGTON, 2020

2260

Merlot $ 21.00

GENERATION 8 CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WELLINGTON, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon $ 126.00

Mulberries and plummy fruit aromas lie over a savoury background. This is a mediumbodied Merlot which is soft and smooth with lots of cherry flavours. The Generation 8 label represents the current eighth generation of vine growers on a 300-year-old farm.

$ 21.00

$ 126.00

More grippy than the Merlot, Generation 8 Cabernet Sauvignon has aromas of violets, blackberries and cola with more blackcurrant flavours emerging on the palate.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Plums, mulberries, some savoury notes

18°C

Blackberries, violets, cola

18°C

Cherries

13.5%

Grippy blackcurrants

14%

Roasted caramelized vegetables

Frikkadel

Chenin Blanc is one of the signature varieties of the Cape and this is a great example which scored very high in my tasting. 2020 Generation 8 exudes white fruits, melon, lemon aromas then leads to a soft creamy wine with flavours of lemon meringue pie, peaches and nectarines which stay on the palate.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Melon, lemon

6°C

Lemon meringue pie, peaches, nectarines, [D]

12.5%

Salade Niçoise

photo — The Bosman vinoteque is a treasure trove

for older vintages.

— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS

33

NEW

NEW LOWER PRICE

2261

GENERATION 8 SHIRAZ, WO WELLINGTON, 2020

2266

NEW

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WELLINGTON, 2015

Cabernet Sauvignon

2267

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS PINOTAGE, WELLINGTON, 2016

Pinotage

Shiraz $ 46.00 $ 21.00

$ 276.00

$ 288.00

$ 126.00

Black cherries, chocolate and red berry fruits, lead to a succulent palate with supple tannins a sour red cherry and cranberry finish.

A rich dense Cabernet Sauvignon, it has dark fruit and floral and green leaf aroma.

Blackberry and smoky flavours shine though on the palate which has a fine grainy texture and is perfect for drinking now and over the next few years. Petrus’s grandfather was a great believer in the potential for Bovlei to grow great Cabernet, and this clearly supports his belief.

2021-2023, M8 D9

Bakery aromas of freshly cooked crusty bread and sour dough combine with those of redcurrants, raspberries, yoghurt and custard pie with a savoury edge. This is really good and interesting Pinotage. It is medium bodied with pure fresh and jammy fruit flavours leading to a firm finish.

In 1994, Jannie Bosman, who runs the Bosman vineyard nursery, spotted a batch of Pinotage: in his view, it was exceptional and he just had to plant them in their Hexberg and Haasland vineyards. Despite the great quality of the grapes, Corlea finds Pinotage to be one of the most challenging wines to make and takes great care not to overextract. What a result!

2021-2025, M7 D9

Black cherries, chocolate, red fruits

18°C

Dark fruits, graphite, green leaf

18°C

Cranberry, cherry

14%

Blackberries, smoke, floral

14%

Braised beef trinchado

$ 48.00

Chicken pot pie

2021-2024, M8 D9 Raspberries, redcurrants, sour dough, savoury edge

18°C

Pure fruits, raspberry

14%

Venison pie with suet crust

34

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

NEW

DISCOVER BOSMAN’S OPTENHORST CHENIN BLANC ONLINE, LOT 2164

2265

NERO, WELLINGTON, 2018

Nero d’Avola $ 48.00

$ 288.00

NEW

2262

UPPER HEMEL EN AARDE VALLEY PINOT NOIR, MAGNUM OPUS, 2018

Pinot Noir $ 66.00

$ 396.00

2021-2025, M8 D9 Cassis, red cherry, peony, wild strawberries

18°C

Red fruits, vanilla oak

13%

Lightly seared tuna steak

A subtle yet complex bouquet with cassis, red cherries, peony, fresh and wild strawberries. This is an elegant Pinot Noir, quite light in body, smooth with red fruits, vanilla and a lovely woody finish. The vineyard, close to the whale-watching resort of Hermanus, is in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde valley. The elevation and four kilometre-proximity to the sea make it ideal for cool climate Pinot Noir. De Bos farm was purchased in 2001 with the first vines planted in 2006. It now has 50 hectares of vines, 25 hectares of protea and 180 hectares of land under conservation management and offers floral and fynbos workshops and nature trails.

The Bosmans are always trying out new things: this is the only South African wine produced from Nero d’Avola. In 2004, Petrus brought cuttings back from Sicily to see how the varietal would do in Wellington’s hot dry climate. The 2018 is quite restrained on the nose with a concentrated palate revealing ripe fruit flavours of red cherries, berries and raspberry jam. It is firm with a lingering spicy finish.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Raspberry jam

18°C

Red cherries, berries, spice

13.5%

Spicy beef and pork loaf with blackberry glaze

— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS

35

COMMUNITY

Fairtrade and Wine The Fairtrade mark is a widely recognized ethical label internationally.

It is a certification designed to provide the producers of developing countries access to stable markets around the world, while employing sustainable farming, environmental and ethical practices.

The system aims to make a difference in the lives of the people who grow and produce the things we love, like grapes and wine. The Fairtrade system ensures that the workers involved in the production of such products are treated fairly.

Viticulture is challenging work, relying on climate, seasonal work and specialized equipment to produce wine. While most of us are familiar with Fairtrade coffee or chocolate, Fairtrade first certified wine in 2003. Four wine producing countries subscribe to Fairtrade labelling: South Africa, Argentina, Chile and Lebanon. The Fairtrade certification ensures that smallscale growers earn a decent living.

South Africa’s legacy of apartheid and racial segregation often meant that Black workers would have the lowest wages and more perilous tasks in wine estates. In South America, low market prices pushed farm workers into great poverty. Fairtrade aims to improve their situations by guaranteeing a Fairtrade Minimum Price when they sell their wines, offering a Fairtrade Premium (extra funds), banning the use of some highly toxic chemicals and fostering workers’ ability to join independent trade unions.

BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS Bosman Family Vineyards has been a Fairtrade accredited producer since 2009. To earn that certification, Bosman has ensured that their workers enjoy a certain standard of living in terms of housing, education, healthcare and working conditions.

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CELLAR 281 — COMMUNITY

The Bosman Family have long been champions of social, economic and environmental practices to develop the community and support sustainable farming. The relationship between the family and their team is evident in the fact that many of the 260 full-time workers on the estate are fifth-generation families that have as deep a passion for winemaking as the Bosmans themselves. With workers owning 26% of the business, along with a solid skills transfer system and numerous social projects, the workers are invested in every aspect of the business. It was a natural progression for the winemaker to get involved in the Fairtrade scheme.

For every bottle of Generation 8, Adama and Fairtrade wine sold, a percentage of the revenue is given to the Adama Foundation. This is a communal fund administered by the farm employees, with mentorship by management, to spend as they see fit, to improve the social, economic and environmental conditions of their own community. The money raised through the Fairtrade program has gone to transportation, education, housing, sports and culture programs and has directly impacted the lives of almost 6300 people so far.

Opimian supports Fairtrade which, in turn, helps ensure that small-scale growers get a fair deal. That is something to which we can all raise a glass!

NEW

MIXED CASE

NEW

ADAMA WHITE, WELLINGTON, 2020

Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc

Tasted as a young unfinished barrel sample, Adama White has ripe melon, pineapple yoghurt aromas with a savoury hint of fresh Paris (button) mushrooms adding an edge and depth. It is rich on the palate, broad in structure, textured with a long lemony citrus finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Pineapple yoghurt, ripe melon, hint mushroom

6°C

Lemon citrus, [D]

13%

ADAMA RED, WELLINGTON, 2018

Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Primitivo, Cinsaut, Grenache Noir, Viognier, Nero d’Avola Intense aromas of coconut and red cherries lead to more succulent fruits on the palate.

This is a medium- to full-bodied wine, dense in structure with good mid-palate weight and mellow oaky flavours. A blend of unusual varietals that enjoy the warm Wellington climate; mainly planted on schist soils with Shiraz grown in the cool upper Hemelen-Aarde Valley on decomposed granite.

Component wines were matured in new American and older French oak with the final blend made up of 50% Shiraz, 14% Mourvèdre, 11% Primitivo, 11% Cinsaut, 10% Grenache Noir, 3% Viognier and 2% Nero d’Avola.

2021-2026, M6 D8

Herb-crusted goat cheese Oaky, coconut, red cherries

18°C

Coffee, red cherry

13.5%

THREE BOTTLES EACH ADAMA WHITE & ADAMA RED

Steak and kidney pie

2263

ADAMA FAIRTRADE CASE

$ 35.00

$ 210.00

The Adama Apollo Trust, set up in 2008, acknowledges the symbiotic relationship between the Bosmans and the wider community of families and workers who live and work on the farms. It was named after Adam Appollis who was the right-hand man to Petrus Bosman’s great-grandfather and grandfather. Adama, as he was known, was father and mentor to many of the workers on the farm. The trust gives long-serving employees a 26% share of the business and vineyards and invests in programs to expand their horizons. The inspirational Rita Andreas, who I met a couple of years ago, runs many of the educational and community programs and is herself a fifth-generation descendant of Adama.

Part of the internationally recognized Fairtrade initiative, money goes towards improving accommodation, education and healthcare.

photo — Inspection of new vines in the Bosman Vineyards.

— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS

37

SOUTH AFRICA

Aristea Wines STELLENBOSCH Aristea was a project born from the coming together of three people: Matt Krone, a South African 12th-generation winemaker from the Cape; Martin Krawjeski, owner of Clos Cantenac in Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux; and Florent Dumeau, French winemaking consultant. The team don’t have a winery of their own, preferring instead to focus their efforts and spend their money on sourcing the best grapes possible from premium spots and renting corners of wineries for Matt to work his magic.

38

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

photo — The aristea flower flourishes on land ravaged by fire, opening for just one day each year. It symbolizes the struggle to produce every new vintage.

NEW

2271

ARISTEA PINOT NOIR, HEMEL-ENAARDE, 2019

Pinot Noir $ 60.00

$ 360.00

As the Burgundians say, “ça pinote:” in other words, there is no mistaking this for anything other than Pinot Noir. Translucent ruby in colour, aromas of ripe red fruits, cherry blossom, strawberry jam and vanilla precede a supple juicy mid palate which in turn lead to a savoury spicy finish. It is fine and layered in texture. Grapes were sourced from two selected vineyards at the top of the Hemelen-Aarde ridge. This is the coolest part of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley with persistent cooling winds causing grapes to ripen a couple of weeks later than other parts of the valley.

ARISTEA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, STELLENBOSCH, 2018

2021-2026, M6 D7 Ripe red fruits, vanilla

18°C

Juicy fruits, savoury spice

13%

Pan-seared salmon with du Puy lentils

Cabernet Sauvignon $ 52.00

2269

$ 312.00 $ 103.00

2270

$ 309.00

I feel like a bit of a broken record as each year I say the same thing, but every year since the first Aristea Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in 2015, the wines get better. Matt’s 2018 is a deep plum colour; it has a subtle sweet perfume with fresh blackcurrant and a touch of herbs and vanilla. On the palate, it has a soft silky texture with vibrant blackberry and cherry fruits leading to a savoury finish. It is medium bodied and pure – with lots of breeding and class. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were sourced from three growers within Stellenbosch’s so called “golden triangle.”

2021-2030, M6 D8 Sweet perfume, fresh blackcurrants, touch of herbs, vanilla

18°C

Blackberries, cherries, savoury

14%

Cherry and balsamic braised beef short ribs

— SOUTH AFRICA ARISTEA WINES

39

CELLAR UP! WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

Cellar Up! will become a regular feature in the Cellar Offerings.

Members are finding it to be a useful tool in choosing Opimian wines of different styles within the Offering.

Whether you are a casual, everyday wine drinker or a seasoned, serious wine collector, every cellar can benefit from having a range of wines. Choose from this helpful list to expand the diversity of your wines. You never know – you just might find a new favourite.

SPARKLING Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance ARISTEA MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE BLANC BRUT, STELLENBOSCH, 2016, LOT 2273, P41

LIGHT WHITE White/light fish, sipping on its own SEASALTER SAUVIGNON BLANC · SEMILLON, DARLING HILLS, CRAFTED BY GROOTE POST, 2020, LOT 2256, P31

FULL BODY WHITE Poultry, mild cheeses, pork KERSHAW LOWER DUIVENHOKS RIVER CHARDONNAY, GPS SERIES, 2017, LOT 2279, P45

AROMATIC OR SWEET WHITE Dessert, rich foods like foie gras CINCIANO VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOC, 2011, LOT 2220, P11

ROSÉ Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck WARWICK THE FIRST LADY DRY ROSÉ, WESTERN CAPE, 2020, LOT 2281, P47

...AND FOR YOUR BAR London Dry Gin WINESTILLERY LONDON DRY GIN, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE, LOT 2230, P55

LIGHT RED Many pastas, pork, poultry, sipping on its own UPPER HEMEL EN AARDE VALLEY PINOT NOIR, MAGNUM OPUS, 2018, LOT 2262, P34

MEDIUM RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2019, LOT 2214, P9

FULL BODY RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL, 2017, LOT 2286, P51

40

CELLAR 281 — CELLAR UP!

ARISTEA MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE BLANC BRUT, STELLENBOSCH, 2016

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir $ 45.00

2273

$ 270.00 $ 89.00

2274

2272

$ 267.00

ARISTEA SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON, ELGIN, 2019

Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon $ 43.00

A flinty restrained wine at the time of tasting, it is tightly wound and Sancerrelike in style, opening in the glass to reveal delicate white peach aromas with lemon and lime citrus. It is linear with good depth and should become more expressive over the coming months. Produced from a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, the two varieties were harvested separately almost two weeks apart. Grapes were fermented and matured in 500-litre barrels for nine months, but it is the minerality of this wine that dominates stylistically.

A complex, flavoursome and layered sparkling wine, Aristea MCC 2016 has intense aromas with ripe nectarines, pineapple yoghurt and lemon curd. It is smooth with more ripe fruits, toast and roasted almond flavours complemented by fine creamy mousse. Matt Krone’s family have been making Méthode Cap Classique wines for centuries and an innate accumulation of generations of know-how shine through in his wines.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Flint, wet stone

6°C

Nectarines, lemon curd, pineapple yoghurt

6°C

Lemon, lime, racy acidity, [D]

13%

Toasted almonds, white fruits, [D]

12%

Mild-spiced Thai fish cakes

photo — The harvest in Stellenbosch. Aristea wines are produced in limited quantities each year.

$ 258.00

Lemon curd pâte sablée tart

— SOUTH AFRICA ARISTEA WINES

41

SOUTH AFRICA

Richard Kershaw Wines ELGIN

42

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

Richard Kershaw, MW, is a Brit who was drawn to the beautiful landscape and potential of the Cape Winelands and settled there 20 years ago. He is based in the cool climate region of Elgin, a relatively new wine region in the Southern Cape famous previously for the high quality of its apples. For his top wines, Richard focusses on specific clones of noble grape varieties grown in the very best sites – he micro-vinifies each separately to see what it will bring.

Having originally trained as a chef, his winemaking decisions are based on frequently tasting and assessing each barrel of wine. This same approach is used to make Smuggler’s Boot wines from grapes sourced more widely across the Cape.

photo — Kershaw’s GPS Chardonnay is matured in barrel for 12 months.

2277

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT SAUVIGNON BLANC, SEMILLON, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

2276

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT PINOT NOIR, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2018

Pinot Noir $ 38.00

$ 228.00

Intensely flavoured, it has a perfume of red cherries, vanilla and smoky notes. This is a smooth wine quite light in weight with flavours of sweet tobacco combined with cherries and redcurrants. It is refined with a nice acidity and spicy finish. Pinot Noir was sourced from seven farms with three different clones. After picking and handsorting, grapes were macerated for three days and fermented in open-top fermenters.

The wine was part matured in older French oak barrels and “breathable” eggs.

$ 36.00

$ 216.00

The 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is a crisp flavoursome wine with great minerality. Aromas of limes, elderflower, curry leaves and flint lead to a supple mediumbodied palate with more limey fruits and herbs. With equal proportions of the two grape varieties, Sauvignon Blanc was tank fermented while the Semillon element was barrel fermented using 28% new oak. The Smuggler’s Boot range of wines is named after an era when grape growers would smuggle cuttings into the country by concealing them in their wellies – trade embargoes prevented them from bringing them in any other way.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2275

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT GSM BLEND, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2018

Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah $ 30.00

$ 180.00

An immediate hit, this unoaked GSM blend just oozes personality with aromas of tarragon, mint, redcurrants, celery salt and other spices. It is on the lighter side of medium bodied with red berries and sour cherry flavours, a lively acidity and great depth. It is this fresh natural acidity that Richard was searching for when sourcing grapes from areas that are warm but which have coolish nights. Grapes came from southern slopes in Wellington, some newer areas of Swartland with a tad from southern Stellenbosch. The final blend is composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Syrah.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2024, M8 D9

Vanilla, red cherries, smoky

18°C

Lime, elderflower, flint

6°C

Redcurrants, mint

18°C

Sweet tobacco, redcurrants

13%

Herbs, citrus, [D]

13%

Sour cherries, spices

14%

Oven-roasted monkfish with garlic mashed potatoes

photo — Richard Kershaw (right) and Dudley Wilson, the oenologist, posing with the brand-new destemmer at Richard Kershaw Wines.

Poached salmon with peas and a light Hollandaise sauce

Mild lamb korma

— SOUTH AFRICA RICHARD KERSHAW WINES

43

JOIN US FOR OUR C281 VIRTUAL TASTINGS Having trouble deciding which wines to order from C281? Want to learn more about the winemakers you already love? Do you have burning questions to ask them? Or do you simply want to relax and “get away” for a bit behind your screen?

From the comfort of your home, join us to meet the people behind the wine. Check your inbox, invites are coming soon! You can also check out upcoming events on the Events page of the Opimian website.

THROUGHOUT THE CELLAR OFFERING WE’LL FEATURE SEVERAL OF THE WINEMAKERS. DON’T MISS OUT! check your inbox events@opimian.ca

follow us opimianwineclubdevin

NEW

2278

THE SMUGGLER’S BOOT CHARDONNAY, WESTERN CAPE, RICHARD KERSHAW WINES, 2018

KERSHAW KLEIN RIVER SYRAH, GPS SERIES, 2017

Syrah

Chardonnay $ 36.00

2280

$ 216.00

A restrained style with stone fruits, peaches, nectarines and almond aromas with a kiss of vanilla. The smooth palate has a maltedbiscuit character and lots of lemon and mandarin citrus notes. Creamy in texture, Chardonnay was sourced from several areas, handpicked and the whole bunch pressed. A small proportion was fermented in oak with 20% new.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Stone fruits, almond, vanilla

6°C

Lemon, mandarin, [D]

12.5%

Pan-seared chicken breast with tarragon and crème fraîche.

$ 73.00

$ 438.00

A hugely complex wine with a lovely creamy silky feel. Aromas of spices, resin and church pews are complemented by dark mulberry fruits, red and black peppercorns, and chocolate dipped fruits. It has a layered texture with sweet fruits, savoury spice, a touch of bay leaf with some grip on the finish and griotte (similar to the morello cherry) flavours. This single vineyard block tucked up against the Kleinrivier Mountains has Glenrosa soils more commonly associated with warmer regions. In this case, sea breezes from Walker Bay act to significantly cool the vineyard. Klein River is the smallest wine ward in South Africa.

2021-2030, M6 D8 Spices, mulberry, black peppercorns

18°C

Sweet fruits, bay leaf, griottes

13.5%

Slow-barbecued pork shoulder with plum sauce

NEW

2279

KERSHAW LOWER DUIVENHOKS RIVER CHARDONNAY, GPS SERIES, 2017

Chardonnay $ 70.00

$ 420.00

An ethereal wine, elegant and fine in texture with layers of spices, passion fruit, lime and lingering nutty and cinnamon flavours.

Richard occasionally strays outside of Elgin to find exemplary parcels of vines in other regions for his GPS Series wines. In 2016 he discovered a small parcel of Chardonnay in Lower Duivenhoks River. While most soils in South Africa are based on decomposed granite, Richard was attracted to this vineyard because of its limestone soils. Some 225 kilometres east of Elgin, this is the only wine grower in the region. Grapes were hand-picked in the early morning and whole bunches gently pressed.

The juice was gravity-flowed to barrel - no pumps were used at all. Barrels from a small number of artisanal coopers from Burgundy were used with 40% new oak. The juice was left to ferment naturally, and the wine matured a further 12 months in barrel.

2021-2026, M7 D9 Toast, lemon curd, custard

6°C

Passion fruit, spices, [D]

13%

Pan-seared scallops with herbed cream sauce

— SOUTH AFRICA RICHARD KERSHAW WINES

45

SOUTH AFRICA

Warwick Wine Estate STELLENBOSCH Warwick Wine Estate lies in the SimonsbergStellenbosch subregion directly north of the historic town of Stellenbosch – South Africa’s winemaking capital.

The estate’s vineyards are planted on the foothills and mid-slopes of Simonsberg mountain between 240-360 metres, with a variety of slopes and aspects. The higher slopes look across to Cape Town and Table Mountain.

46

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

2282

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY SAUVIGNON BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, 2020

Sauvignon Blanc $ 132.00

$ 22.00

2281

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY DRY ROSÉ, WESTERN CAPE, 2020

Pinotage $ 21.00

$ 126.00

A rosé produced from South Africa’s specialty grape Pinotage, Lady Rosé is pale in colour with mandarin, pear and other fruit aromas. Light in alcohol at 11.5%, grapes were picked early and skin contact kept to a minimum creating a light crisp wine with a citrus finish.

Pale in colour, The First Lady Sauvignon Blanc 2020 has passion fruit and citrus flavours. It is smooth and easy drinking.

After fermentation in-tank, the wine was kept on lees for a short period then bottled in early August.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Mandarin, pears

6°C

Passion fruit

6°C

Citrus, sour cherry, [D]

11.5%

Tropical, grapefruit, [D]

13.5%

Arugula and Parma ham salad

photo — Warwick hosts open-air movie nights, to be enjoyed with a nice glass of wine!

2021-2022, M8 D9

Salmon poke bowl with pineapple

— SOUTH AFRICA WARWICK WINE ESTATE

47

ESCAPES

Sea, Wine and Sun in South Africa

While we Opimians often have wine and wine regions at the top of our travel list, there is no doubt that most destinations offer more than just our fix for all things wine. South Africa is such as destination.

When we can all travel again, consider South Africa for its beaches and its oceans (yes, oceans – plural) as well as its viniculture. But first, let’s talk about the wine...

The winelands of the Western Cape compose the largest wine-producing area of South Africa. An easy drive from Cape Town, this area offers so many vineyards to visit, including Opimian’s own Groote Post in Darling, Warwick and Aristea in the Stellenbosch area, Richard Kershaw in Elgin, Bosman in Wellington, and Vilafonté in Paarl.

Stellenbosch, 50 kilometres from Cape Town, is perhaps the most famous wine-producing region in the country. The town, the second oldest in South Africa, is steeped in history and is home to the country’s best-known wine estates. The scenic Stellenbosch Wine Route is the oldest in the country and one of the most popular destinations for local and international visitors alike. Tired of looking at vines? Grab a pair of binoculars and observe the wildlife for an impromptu bird safari: keep a lookout for various kingfisher species, the African Fish-Eagle, and the Cape Sugarbird.

ARISTEA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, STELLENBOSCH, 2018, LOT 2269, P39

48

CELLAR 281 — TITLE

FANCY A SWIM? Boulders Beach, near Cape Town, is a sheltered beach made up of inlets between granite boulders, from which the name originated. It is a popular swimming beach, although people are restricted to beaches adjacent to the penguin colony: a colony of African penguins settled there in 1982. The penguins are best viewed from Foxy Beach, where newly constructed boardwalks take visitors to within a few metres of the birds.

Boulders Beach forms part of the Table Mountain National Park. If you seek more thrills, book a shark expedition in False Bay, home to 27 different species of sharks. Observe them from a boat or dive in if you dare!

With over 2,500 kilometres of coastline facing both the cold and restless Atlantic, as well as the tropical Indian Ocean, South Africa is a surfing mecca. There are so many surf spots worth exploring that one visit is hardly enough. The numerous world-class waves have the world’s best surfers coming back year after year. Have I piqued your interest? Watch for the Opimian Travel Program in the future. This just may be one of the first destinations.

2283

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY CHARDONNAY, WESTERN CAPE, 2020

Chardonnay $ 22.00

$ 132.00

Subtle notes of nectarines combine with fresh white fruits, melon, pears and lemons making this a very pleasant easydrinking wine. A small part – just 8% – was fermented in oak to add depth to the palate, but there is no obvious flavour of oak.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Nectarine, white fruits

6°C

Melons, pears, lemon, [D]

13.5%

Chicken korma with basmati

NEW

2284

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY BRUT ROSÉ MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE, WESTERN CAPE, NV

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

OR A HIKE? Towering 1086 meters over Cape Town, Table Mountain is a playground for nature enthusiasts. The mountain has for over 540 million years offered shelter to porcupines, mongooses, snakes, lizards, tortoises, and the Table Mountain ghost frog, a species unique to the mountain. One of the Seven New Wonders of the World, the exceptional view offered at the top is worth the hike; different trails with various difficulty levels are accessible.

Don’t miss out on South Africa’s natural wonders, from its ancient soils delivering exceptional wines to its oceans and mountains, a true feast for the eyes.

$ 32.00

$ 192.00

Watermelon-pink in colour, it has fresh aromas of sherbet and blackcurrants.

The frothy palate reveals flavours of strawberries and cream leading to redcurrants and a crisp finish. The bottle fermentation was followed by 24 months aging on lees creating a perfect wine for a summer afternoon treat, or a more serious celebratory occasion.

2021-2022, M8 D9

THE OLD MAN’S BLEND MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SHIRAZ, WESTERN CAPE, GROOTE POST, 2020, LOT 2252, P29

Sherbet, some blackcurrant

6°C

Strawberries, cream, redcurrant, [D]

12.5%

Fried chicken

— SOUTH AFRICA WARWICK WINE ESTATE

49

SOUTH AFRICA

Vilafonté PAARL

50

CELLAR 281 — BRITISH COLUMBIA

While the Vilafonté winery lies on the outskirts of Stellenbosch, the vineyards are some distance away towards Paarl on the bench of Simonsberg. Vilafonté is a tripartite venture between California viticulturist Phil Freese, his winemaker wife Zelma Long and South African Mike Ratcliffe, whose family previously owned Warwick Wine Estate. The estate is named after ancient Vilafonté soils dated to be between 750,000 – 1.5 million years old. In preparing the land for planting, stone-age cutting tools were found dating 1.4-1.9 million years ago and have been attributed to Homo ergaster, known as “working man.” Their presence on the surface of the soils is testimony that the region has never experienced glaciation, volcanic disturbances or sedimentary deposits.

photo — Mike Ratcliffe and his Seriously Old Dirt wine, named after the ancient vilafontes soils in which the vines have been growing gor almost two decades.

2286

VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL, 2017

Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 101.00

2285

SERIOUSLY OLD DIRT BY VILAFONTÉ, WO WESTERN CAPE, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

$ 606.00

Deep in colour, 2017 Series M has an intense smoky nose with graphite, vanilla and wood seasoning over dark fruits with ripe blackcurrants.

It is medium bodied, soft and mouth-filling with a grainy texture. Black and bitter cherries, a plump mid palate and oaky flavours create an elegant wine with persistent finish. 2017 is a blend of 42% Merlot, 39% Malbec and 19% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was matured for 21 months in French oak barrels with nearly a quarter new.

$ 276.00

$ 46.00

Named after the ancient soils on which Vilafonté vineyards are planted, Seriously Old Dirt is a youthful approachable style for earlier drinking yet still has good cellaring potential. I am told I am the first person outside of the winemaking team to taste the 2019 vintage and what a delight. The blend had been finalized by Zelma and Chris days earlier and will be bottled in December.

It has mellow fruit aromas of plums and cherries over a savoury background with dark chocolate. It is supple and fine in texture with flavours of red apples, sour and maraschino cherries with almonds. It consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 5% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc and was matured for 18 months in older French oak barrels.

2021-2028, M7 D8 Smoke, graphite, wood, blackcurrant

18°C

Black cherries, oaky

14%

Barbecued flat iron steak with blue cheeserosemary butter

2021-2027, M6 D8 Plums, cherries, dark chocolate

18° C

Maraschino cherries, almond

13.5%

Blue cheese-stuffed burgers

— SOUTH AFRICA VILAFONTÉ

51

WARWICK THE FIRST LADY BRUT ROSÉ MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE, WESTERN CAPE, NV, LOT 2284, P49

WINE TIPS

The Rise of South African Africa, the Cradle of Humankind, has Premium Wines South some of the oldest soils in the world, made up

by Jenny Ratcliffe-Wright, CWM

Featured in this Cellar Offering are some pinnacles of excellence, both from established brands such as Warwick and newer, cutting-edge ones like Kershaw. Richard Kershaw, a Master of Wine, is famous for his brilliant range of deconstructed Syrahs and Chardonnays for his GPS range, which explores some more diverse climates, other than the cool climate Elgin where his winery is based.

Richard Kershaw MW talks about why premium South African wines are skyrocketing in popularity: “South Africa has a wealth of small select sites with diverse soils and meso-climates that afford winemakers the ability to create premium wines with good structure and acidity; wines that can age a long time, and that hold their own against many Old World wines, but often at a much lesser price.”

Nick Pentz from Groote Post has a similar view, saying the quality to value ratio is huge, which makes South African wines offer enjoyment at the highest level, be it from a sensory point of view or price point. It is common that once a wine drinker has experienced the premium wines from the Cape, they are back for more. South Africa excels in the production of many different varietals from varied wine producing areas: from cool coastal pockets of excellence to drier inland areas, South African wines have a thread of authenticity, over different climatic influences.

As Christiane von Arnim from Warwick Wines says, South Africa offers more variety and diversity than any other wine growing country, being spoilt with exceptional terroir across all regions. This allows winemakers the ability to produce world-class wines that best suit their style and terroir. Mike Ratcliffe of Vilafonté added that the top-end of South African wine is a fast-changing place.

High quality has been produced for a long time, but it is now being complimented by dynamic brands, cultural interest, historical significance and a focus on creating meaningful brands.

South African premium wines are achieving a wave of global recognition. Vilafonté’s Series C was rated in The South Africa Wine Report from Robert Parker as the best red wine for 2019, as well as joint-highest rated South African wine overall. The Series C won the trophy for best Bordeaux Blend at the Six-Nations Competition in Sydney, Australia, while Greg Sherwood MW described the Seriously Old Dirt by Vilafonté as one of the most sought after “second wines” from a premium winery in South Africa.

52

CELLAR 281 — WINE TIPS

of decomposed granite and Table Mountain Sandstone that range from 100 million to 1 billion years old, as well as having a 300-year history of producing quality wines.

South Africa also has a great reputation for sparkling wine, produced in the méthode champenoise style. Called “Cap Classique since” 1992, the name was derived from the fact that the classic art of winemaking was introduced to the Cape by the French Huguenots, and the first bottle-fermented sparkling wine produced in the Cape was called Kaapse Vonkel (Cape Sparkle), which was released in 1971 by Simonsig Wine Estate, using the three traditional Champagne varieties, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Cap Classique is a premium category of South African sparkling wines. It’s a generic term for any wine in the Cape that is produced by the traditional method, that is, in the same way as Champagne. To distinguish them from other, invariably less expensive, ways of getting the bubble in the bottle, Cap Classique will be on the label. The Warwick The First Lady Rosé and Aristea Cap Classiques clearly show this category to be premium in South Africa. With such an array of wines of every style, region and price point to choose from, it is exciting to see the quality the country is delivering and it is certainly worth exploring!

VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL, 2016

VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL, 2015

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon

Ripe and cooked fruits, cherry jam and herbal notes are complemented by a touch of undergrowth and vanilla. This is a mellow wine, relatively light in body with crushed red berry flavours. Since my tasting this time last year, the wine seems to have evolved. 2016 was characterized by drought conditions and a hot summer leading to an early harvest, which started on February 3, and a small crop. As the weather cooled in February, Cabernet Sauvignon was left to ripen longer with the last grapes picked on March 8.

Predominantly Malbec, with 36% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.

A refined wine, with more weight than the 2016, it has a mineral edge which gives length and freshness. It is a blend of 40% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Malbec. Harvest was early (starting January 30) giving ripe grapes, naturally high in acidity. Aromas of red cherries and raspberries are complemented with notes of sandalwood, sage and a touch of concrete.

2021-2027, M6 D7 Red cherries, raspberries, sandalwood

18°C

2021-2026, M8 D9

Mineral edge

14%

Cherry jam, stewed fruits, herbs, undergrowth

18°C

Beef teriyaki

Mellow, red berries

14%

Smoked turkey drumsticks with cranberry sauce

VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL, 2014

Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon

TWO BOTTLES EACH 2014, 2015, 2016

A savoury wine with musky aromas, meat, undergrowth and a hint of leather with sweet fruits. Succulent fruits come through on the palate complemented by cedary oak and graphite character. It has evolved flavours with chewy grainy tannins and a rustic finish. Harvest started later than usual in 2014 on February 18. Drinking nicely now, it was matured for 22 months in oak and is a blend of 39% Merlot, 36% Malbec and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2021-2026, M7 D9 Undergrowth, savoury meaty notes,

18°C

Succulent fruits, cedar, graphite

14%

Slow-roasted lamb ragout with mushrooms on rotini

VERTICAL CASE 2287

VILAFONTÉ SERIES M, PAARL

$ 108.00

$ 648.00

Series M is a Merlot and Malbec based blend, the proportions of which vary according to conditions during the growing season and which are complemented by some Cabernet Sauvignon and sometimes a small amount of Cabernet Franc.

— SOUTH AFRICA VILAFONTÉ

53

WINESTILLERY After years of planning, Winestillery came into being in 2019 and is already winning awards. Small batches of gin and vodka are produced from wine and local Tuscan botanicals. Enrico Chioccioli Altadonna originally trained as a lawyer, but during an internship in the U.S. at Kings County Distillery he found his true vocation and trained to become a Master Distiller. Enrico designed his 500-litre copper pot still, allowing him to distill using different methods; it was custom-made by local Tuscan artisan Frilli. He has named it “Bacco” after Bacchus the god of wine and ecstasy.

54

CELLAR 281 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER

2232

WINESTILLERY TUSCAN VODKA, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE

Vodka $ 152.00

42% $ 152.00

Wines underwent a long and delicate distillation producing a fresh, clean and smooth vodka. It has absolutely no fieriness from the spirit but lots of nice mineral notes.

2231

WINESTILLERY OLD TOM GIN, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE

Gin $ 165.00

42% $ 165.00

This has a slight pinky hue and is sweeter and richer on the palate although it contains no added sugar or colouring. It has honeyed notes with dark spices and was matured in Sangiovese wine barrels.

2230

WINESTILLERY LONDON DRY GIN, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE

Dry gin $ 156.00

42% $ 156.00

London Dry Gin has nice cardamom, fresh nettle and citrus flavours, with lemon and orange peel. Produced from Enrico’s secret recipe using only Tuscan botanicals.

2233

WINESTILLERY TUSCAN VERMOUTH, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA FAMILY ESTATE

Vermouth $ 94.00

18%

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

$ 94.00

Intense aromatics, my first impression was roast lamb in a glass as it has a dominant rosemary aroma over a meaty background. It is sweet initially with herbal flavours and an intense bitterness building on the palate and finish – think Campari or Aperol. Sangiovese wine was infused with Tuscan botanicals and then matured in French oak barrels.

— CELLAR 281 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

55

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