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The wizardry of the watch world explained

Words by JUSTIN HAST

[The Future of Sustainable Watchmaking ]

Watches are somewhat of a paradox. One the one hand – incredibly sustainable. A product which lasts generations with intermittent intervention (the definition of luxury). On the other, the manufacturing process, packaging and profit maximisation is often damaging. For too long the watch world has gotten away without having to improve its practices, and customers, particularly younger ones (the ones that brand are targeting increasingly) recognise the weight (and correctly so) they place of understanding the supply chain and the impact on the world.

The most obvious way brands are upping their eco game is via the materials they use. That’s been the case in straps for a while which are, admittedly, a pretty surface-level way of ensuring a modicum of sustainability. It also happens that there are some pretty cool examples out there – good for the planet, good on the wrist.

Breitling’s Outerknown ECONYL® yarn NATO strap collection, for example, was launched in 2019. Created in partnership with Outerknown (a super- cool surf brand), the straps have been designed specifically for the Superocean collection. ECONYL® yarn is created exclusively from recycled nylon waste, some of which is recovered from discarded or lost fishing nets. The straps are not only recycled but are also completely recyclable and visually a powerful modern tribute to the surf culture of the 1950s and 1960s.

Similarly, the Patravi ScubaTec Black, a new sporty number from Carl F. Bucherer, features its all-new black rubber strap with fabric made of 100% recycled plastic bottles removed from the ocean (it also looks mega). It ties in nicely with the brand’s ongoing work with the Manta Trust, helping to conserve rays and their habitats.

However, more recently brands have been going a bit further in their quests to clean up the world and have begun including recycled materials into their watches proper. Sure, there have been concepts in the past doing just that but now we’re looking at a raft of new production pieces like Panerai’s eSteel.

The eSteel is a huge step forward for Panerai and its commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact, as 89g of the eco-friendly Luminor Marina components are made of recycledbased materials, corresponding to the 58.4% of the total weight of the watch (that is 152.4g). Both the case and dial feature the new recycled-based steel alloy and the real challenge has been in ensuring the eSteel meets the same rigorous standards demanded of the cases that preceded it (interestingly the eSteel exhibits the identical chemical behavior,physical structure and resistance to corrosion as the non-recycled alloy).

Perhaps the most pervasive materials for cases though is made from recycled fishing nets and other assorted marine plastics. That plastic makes up a worrying amount of ocean waste and Ulysse Nardin with their Diver NET, Alpina with their Seastrong Diver Gyre Automatic and Christopher Ward with the shiny new C60 #tide all use it. Provided you don’t mind a plastic watch, it’s a great angle.

The Panerai Luminor Marine eSteel (right) uses recycled metal, similar to the blue powdery material (below) from the #tide project run by Christopher Ward, while the #tide project (bottom) trains and pays fishermen to collect plastic waste which is ready for recycling

Outside of the watches themselves – both figuratively and literally – the packaging they come in is as big an issue as the timepieces ”

Outside of the watches themselves – both figuratively and literally – the packaging they come in is as big an issue as the timepieces. Perhaps more, given the amount of random boxes collectors can end up accruing.

Sustainable materials like vegan leather are a good part of brands’ efforts to change their ways, but IWC has done it via an inspired new single travel case – which doubles as a watch box for multiple cases. The cases use 30% less material and 90% less plastic than before. Not only do they plug in with modern day travel plans of many (pre pandemic anyway) they are obviously reusable and multi-functional which is fantastic. Less is more.

Finally, there’s what brands have been doing for decades: watches for good causes. Honestly, these are often as much a marketing ploy as a genuine charity drive, but if they raise money for the right causes, who can argue? They often bring attention to eco charities that otherwise fly (or more often, swim) under the radar.

Sorting through the plastic waste used for the #tide project (left), which could end up as eco-friendly, recycyled straps made in collaboration between Breitling and surf brand Outerknown (below). Alternatively, the Panerai Luminor Marine eSteel (bottom) remains eco using recycled metal

I’ve already mentioned the Manta Trust, but there’s also Ulysse Nardin’s work with OCEARCH and the FIU Medina Aquarius Program with the DIVER Lemon Shark, Hublot’s drive to save the rhinos with the skeleton-dialled Big Ban Unico SORAI and pretty much everything Blancpain do that’s not a heritage limited edition via their Ocean Commitment programme.

These initiatives aren’t going to change the structural sustainability of fine watchmaking any time soon, but they’re nice to know all the same. Buy a diving watch, save the world? What’s not to love.

As I said, watches aren’t exactly the great polluters of the world, especially at the higher end. They’re built to last and aren’t petrol-powered or particularly wasteful. But by making a few changes here and there, the watch world at large is showing a surprising – and admittedly marketable – commitment to the environment.

After all, in the immortal words of Patek Philippe – “you merely look after it for the next generation”.

By making a few changes here and there, the watch world at large is showing a surprising – and admittedly marketable commitment to the environment ”