FRONT — ask the oracle
THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by JUSTIN HAST
[The Future of Sustainable Watchmaking ]
Watches are somewhat of a paradox. One the one hand – incredibly sustainable. A product which lasts generations with intermittent intervention (the definition of luxury). On the other, the manufacturing process, packaging and profit maximisation is often damaging. For too long the watch world has gotten away without having to improve its practices, and customers, particularly younger ones (the ones that brand are targeting increasingly) recognise the weight (and correctly so) they place of understanding the supply chain and the impact on the world. The most obvious way brands are upping their eco game is via the materials they use. That’s been the case in straps for a while which are, admittedly, a pretty surface-level way of ensuring a modicum of sustainability. It also happens that there are some pretty cool examples out there – good for the planet, good on the wrist.
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Breitling’s Outerknown ECONYL® yarn NATO strap collection, for example, was launched in 2019. Created in partnership with Outerknown (a supercool surf brand), the straps have been designed specifically for the Superocean collection. ECONYL® yarn is created exclusively from recycled nylon waste, some of which is recovered from discarded or lost fishing nets. The straps are not only recycled but are also completely recyclable and visually a powerful modern tribute to the surf culture of the 1950s and 1960s. Similarly, the Patravi ScubaTec Black, a new sporty number from Carl F. Bucherer, features its all-new black rubber strap with fabric made of 100% recycled plastic bottles removed from the ocean (it also looks mega). It ties in nicely with the brand’s ongoing work with the Manta Trust, helping to conserve rays and their habitats. However, more recently brands have been going a bit further in their quests to clean up the world and have begun including recycled materials into their watches proper. Sure, there have been concepts in the past doing just that but now we’re looking at a raft of new production pieces like Panerai’s eSteel. The eSteel is a huge step forward for Panerai and its commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact, as 89g of the eco-friendly Luminor Marina components are made of recycledbased materials, corresponding to the 58.4% of the total weight of the watch (that is 152.4g). Both the case and dial feature the new recycled-based steel alloy and the real challenge has been in ensuring the eSteel meets the same rigorous standards demanded of the cases that preceded it (interestingly the eSteel exhibits the identical chemical behavior,physical structure and resistance to corrosion as the non-recycled alloy). Perhaps the most pervasive materials for cases though is made from recycled fishing nets and other assorted marine plastics. That plastic makes up a worrying amount of ocean waste and Ulysse Nardin with their Diver NET, Alpina with their Seastrong Diver Gyre Automatic and Christopher Ward with the shiny new C60 #tide all use it. Provided you don’t mind a plastic watch, it’s a great angle.
