Oracle Time - Issue 87 - November 2022 (The Party Issue)

COVER CREDITS

Photography: Fraser Vincent

Watch: Grand Seiko

WELCOME

Editor’s letter

Party season is upon us! After last year’s staid celebrations and Christmas being cancelled the two years before that, this is the first time in a while we’re really able to cut loose. And by cut loose I of course mean drink too much Champagne, eat too many unidentifiable canapes, and look sharper than a Japanese kitchen knife while doing it. At least, that’s my plan, anyway. How it turns out only time will tell.

Of course, with the festive season approaching, so too is what lies at the far end of it: Christmas. And yes, that means our annual gift guide once again dominates this issue, so if you’re still struggling for gifts check it out starting on page 53. From the consummate watch collector to the lady in your life, there are plenty of ideas to give you that much needed injection of inspiration. The downside is that there’s no excuse for leaving it to the last minute now. Sorry about that.

That said, if you really want to give the gift that keeps on giving – at least from a horological standpoint – you could do a lot worse than a Grand Seiko. Not only are they the kind of collectors darling that invariably elicits an appreciative nod, but the sheer detail lavished on each one is always astounding. That’s doubly true of their dials, from the iconic Snowflake to the modern success of the Birch to the latest Snowscape. Find out what really sets them apart on page 43.

Speaking of dials, if you’ve ever wondered precisely what the word ‘tropical’ means in relation to vintage watches, wonder no further. We’ve enlisted the inimitable Ross Povey to explain the history behind the term, what it means in a real sense, and some of the references to keep an eye out for. You know, if you’re feeling particularly flush.

Our party style this issue comes in two very different forms. First, we have our shoot on page 90, where our friend Mathias Lefevre is reprising his role of cocktail laced spirit party animal, draped in a mix of funky colours and fine tailoring. That means dress watches, which in this instance range from the purely classical (one of this year’s most stunning Cartiers) to the lavishly quirky (a Moser & Cie going through its blue period).

At the other end of the scale however, Paddy Maddison delves into late-80s Acid House and its lasting effect on the casualisation of men’s style. Ever wondered how dropping ecstasy and dancing your face off has impacted your modern wardrobe? Look no further than page 72. If it brings on some Ibiza flashbacks you’d rather not think about, don’t blame us.

If Acid House just isn’t your scene, how about Rock ‘n’ Roll? Denis O’Regan has been responsible for some of the most phenomenal photos in history of musical icons like Freddy Mercury, Bob Marley, and David Bowie – who described O’Regan as having rock ‘n’ roll in his blood. Josh Sims talks to the legendary visual documentarian on page 105.

While we can’t legally condone imitating the Acid House or Rock ‘n’ Roll lifestyles, at the very least you can earn yourself some yuletide brownie points and look great doing it. If that includes a decent drink (Cognac of course, page 127) and party-ready timepieces (reviews from page 115), all the better.

However, before the hangover hits, stay safe, stay sand and enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

Josh Sims

is a writer and editor contributing to the likes of Esquire , Wallpaper and The Times , among others. His latest book, Retro Watches , is published by Thames & Hudson.

Ross Povey

Ross is the founder of TudorCollector.com, the preeminent online resource for all things Tudor. What he doesn’t know about vintage watches from both Tudor and by extension Rolex simply isn’t worth knowing.

Paddy Maddison

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers . He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

Paddy Maddison is a freelance menswear journalist with a keen interest in outerwear. When he’s not plotting his next big-coat purchase for the coming winter, he can be found at his desk, typing up words for the likes of The Independent, Esquire, GQ, and Men’s Health. He’s also Style Editor at Ape to Gentleman and a former Contributing Editor at FashionBeans.

WATCHES |

EDITOR Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

ART DIRECTOR Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

SUB EDITOR Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

JUNIOR COPYWRITER Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk

SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER Fraser Vincent fraser@opulentmedia.co.uk

JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Kelly Coombes kelly.coombes@opulentmedia.co.uk

PUBLISHER / CO-FOUNDER Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

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Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

— AFICIONADO

Discover

—

What’s

35 — INTRODUCING

All

38 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

‘Tropical’ dials are highly

but what are they? And what should

look out

CONTENTS1

43 — DON’T TOUCH THAT DIAL

From

They

Don’t

83 — FOOTLOOSE

The Oracle Time pick of the best smart shoes to invest in this party season

90 — PARTY TIME

The perfect present might be out of reach, but the perfect suit and watch combo isn’t

105 — IN THE PICTURE

Photographer Denis O’Regan has rock ‘n’ roll in his blood and a tale or two to tell

115 — WATCH REVIEWS

Oracle Time gets hands on with timepieces from Fears, Farer, and Sherpa

127 — IN THE PARTY SPIRIT

How cognac went from a dusty old drink to the spirit of the discerning drinker

131 — RESTAURANT AND BAR NEWS Table for two at the top London restaurants with the best seasonal tasting menus

138 — A HOLLYWOOD HAUNT IN DUBLIN

The grand Georgian hotel that’s fit for kings, presidents, movie stars, and

141 – UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

The ‘divine proportion’ of Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse is tragically overlooked

144 – IN FOCUS

A two-wheel inspired watch,

of

divers of 2022, and a French navy diver

151 – MICROBRAND CORNER

Introducing the latest and

watches from the best small scale

edited by: SAM KESSLER

URUS MAJOR

Where most luxury SUVs tend to skew towards the luxury end of the spectrum, Lamborghini’s powerful Urus has leaned heavily on the sports side – and now it’s throwing its full weight behind the devilishly fast Urus S. Putting down the same 666 horsepower as the insane Urus Performante, this is a big, hefty, off-road capable beast with a top speed of 305 km/h – about 190 mph. It’s not just a step up from the classic Urus in terms of speed either; the Italian marque has made more customisation options than ever available for the ‘everyday’ Lambo. Just remember, no matter how ‘everyday’ it might be, the Urus S is still pure Lamborghini. Prices from €195,538 (approx. £170,450), lamborghini.com

KNOCK-OUT COLLAB

What do you get when you combine two of the most important labels in streetwear with a 90s fighting game? Apparently one of the hottest collaborative collections of autumn 22. Between the painfully hyped Supreme and the ultra-cool Yohji Yamamoto, they’ve pulled together a collection that spans biker leathers at one end, a shirt with the Tekken character select screen at the other and bombers, jackets, hoodies and puffers in between. After the New York imprint and Japanese designer’s last collection in 2020, another was always on the cards. Getting a wave of CGI nostalgia with the Tekken 3 logo (objectively the best Tekken; fight me if you disagree) is one hell of a good surprise. supremenewyork.com

INTO THE BLUE

We’re used to seeing Bucherer give watches a fresh blue paint job and calling it a day, but what do you do with a watch as effortlessly cool as Moser & Cie’s Steamliner, their answer to an integrated bracelet sports watch? Take the sport out, apparently. Showing off the curves of the case, the Moser & Cie Bucherer Blue Steamliner intricately sets the ‘bezel’ with sapphires, which combined with a tourbillon movement (with the complication visible at six o’clock, obviously) puts the emphasis on the ‘luxe’ of sports-luxe. With its sleek anthracite dial, it’s a multitude of steps above the usual ‘give it a blue dial and call it a day’ approach we’ve come to know and… get slightly bored by. bucherer.com

IN DEEP WATER

When there’s not enough room on land, head into the water – at least, that’s the concept behind this magnificent 10,000 square foot mansion perched on Florida’s Naples Island. 4100 Gulf Shore Boulevard N not only includes four bedrooms (to describe them as well-appointed is like calling Florida humid), the two-floor abode includes 4,000sqft of outdoor space, with terraces aplenty and a massive lap pool. Secure a few day boats around this light-filled ode to waterfront living and you have the ultimate way to enjoy the nearby Gulf of Mexico. $35,000,000 (approx. £31,000,000), redfin.com

SAKURA SIPPING

It might not be early spring yet, the season that Sakura blossoms bring hordes of Instagram hungry travellers to Japan, but that hasn’t stopped one of the country’s most delectable exports – Hibiki Whisky – from using the delicate flower as inspiration for a limited edition drop. The new Blossom Harmony has been aged in casks made from Sakura wood, blending matured malt, and grain whiskies into a tribute to a typically Japanese celebration. In line with the Sakura, the nose is particularly floral, followed by Hibiki’s signature depth and sweet complexity with layers of honey and orange, finished with a flourish of bittersweet spice. It’s as beautiful as its honoured blossom, and given it’s a limited-edition Japanese whisky, sure to be around for just as short a time. £175, whisky.suntory.com

BLANCPAIN OCEAN PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

When it comes to Blancpain there are two things you can be certain of, gorgeous vintage inspired diving watches and pro-active marine conservation. A key aspect of the latter is their annual photography competition, raising awareness for the beauty and fragility of underwater environments. They recently announced the winners for 2022 with this stunning photo of a manta ray taken by Brooke Pyke, which won the Female Fifty Fathoms Award. Naturally, the prize was a Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe.

CARTIER CRASH HEADING TO AUCTION

In last month’s issue we took a deep dive into iconic watch designs and one of our favourites was the Cartier Crash. Now you have the opportunity to pick up an excellent example of the 1991 Crash at Christie’s Rare Watch Auction on Monday 7 November. It’s being sold by the family of the original owner, showing that it has been cared for and treated with respect since its original purchase. At the auction it will be Lot 69 with an estimate of CHF 120,000180,000 (approx. £105,00-£160,000, however, take that with a pinch of salt. A 1960s edition of the Crash reached a record breaking $1.5 million (approx. £1.33m) at auction earlier this year.

Learn more at christies.com

XUPES REBRANDED AS CHRONO 24 UK

Last year the luxury pre-owned watch specialist Xupes was acquired by the even larger luxury pre-owned watch specialist Chrono 24. Now, the fruits of that acquisition are being borne out as Xupes is being renamed to Chrono 24 UK and moving to a larger base of operations just down the road from their previous office. The new venue is called The Barn by Chrono 24 and features workshops, secure storage, offices, hospitality spaces, and a bar. Shopping at Chrono 24 UK will remain a Xupes experience, just with a new name. Find out more at xupes.com

CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE FOUNDATION

Eagles. Strong, majestic, breathtakingly beautiful, and a natural part of mountain environments. Well, they should be a natural part of mountainscapes but due to the influence of humans and the climate they’ve been disappearing. That’s why Chopard set up the Alpine Eagle foundation, an organisation created to help conserve the birds that Chopard’s signature sport collection is named after. The foundation recently hit a major milestone, reintroducing their first white-tailed eagles to the wilds around Lake Geneva. In celebration they’ve also launched a special edition of the watch with a green dial.

Find out more at chopard.com

You have the opportunity to pick up an excellent example of the 1991 Crash at Christie’s Rare Watch Auction on Monday 7th November

BULOVA X MARC ANTHONY

With three Grammies under his belt and 14 Billboard Chart no. 1s, Marc Anthony is an American institution unto himself. So it makes sense for his foray into the realm of watches to be alongside another respected American name, Bulova. The two have announced a series of collaborations including multiple timepieces and jewellery collections, themed on the concept of being Bold at Heart.

Learn more at uk.bulova.com

LEWIS HAMILTON X TAKASHI MURAKAMI COLLAB

Japanese artist Takashi Murakami is no stranger to high profile collaborations, having worked with names like Hublot in the past. Now though, he’s teaming up with Lewis Hamilton’s young +44 streetwear brand on a collection of apparel that borders the realms between art and F1 fandom. The clothes promise to be a riot of colour in Murakami’s signature style with a strong cyberpunk/ synthwave vibe.

Learn more at highsnobiety.com

© Alan Silfen

The two have announced a series of collaborations including timepieces and jewellery

GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DEGENÈVE PREDICTIONS

It’s time, once again, for the great and good of the watchmaking world to descend on Geneva for the watch equivalent of the Oscars. The results are set to be announced on Thursday 10 November, giving us a handful of days to ponder who will be walking away with the coveted awards.

For our money, Bulgari is a solid bet with the Octo Finissimo 8 Day Skeleton in the Men’s category, as an Octo helped them secure the Aiguille d’Or prize last year. However, it’s up against some stiff competition in the form of the Zenith x Kari Voutilainen Observatoire, a masterpiece of style and mechanics.

Parmigiani also has a strong showing across the GPHG with watches nominated in five separate categories. There’s a bit of theme between the five because they’re the Tonda PF Automatic, Tonda PF Micro Rotor, Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon and Tonda PF Chronographe. Apparently the Tonda PF is quite popular…

If there’s one category that seems almost impossible to predict, it would have to be Diver’s. The shortlist consists of the ArtyA Depth Gauge, Breitling Superocean, Doxa Army, Grand Seiko Black Stream Diver, Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver, and Tudor Pelagos FXD. It’s an intriguing mixture of retro revival and interesting design twists.

One watch that it’s nice to see get the recognition it deserves is the Zenith Defy Skyline. It’s a really fun watch that’s slightly overshadowed in the Zenith stables by the skeletonised behemoth of the Defy Extreme and uber popular Chronomaster. Learn more at gphg.org

Parmigiani has a strong showing across the GPHG with watches nominated in five separate categories

SEIKO X ROWING BLAZERS

It’s not just streetwear collabs that Seiko has a hand in. Following their uber-successful collaboration last year, the Japanese watchmaker is once again partnering with cult label Rowing Blazers with a colourful capsule collection of Seiko 5 Sports models. Taking now-established elements like the candy cane seconds hands and ‘Tempus Fugit’ caseback, the new range shows off dials in orange, lime green, sky blue, and black. Sporty, fun and a solid addition to Rowing Blazer’s FW22 collection, they’re the perfect mix of quirky New York style and Japanese horological accessibility. $495, available through Seiko USA or Rowing Blazers.

SNOOPY IN BAMFORD BLACK AND BLUE

We’re used to seeing Bamford Watch Department’s signature black and blue colourway on watches, from G-SHOCK to Franck Muller. But a sculpture? That’s a bit more unusual. Not that this is the first time we’ve seen it of course. Twice previously George Bamford has collaborated with celebrated artist Leblon Delienne to create Snoopy figurines and the third follows type nicely. The Snoopy Crown figurine is matte black with a Bamford aqua blue crown, not exactly groundbreaking, but frustratingly cool all the same. Priced at £375, it’s a fun collectors’ item for fans of the artist or Snoopy. Unfortunately, it’ll only go to the truly dedicated as there are only 48 pieces available.

bamfordlondon.com

DIOR DOMINATES HARRODS

Iconic Knightsbridge institution Harrods is already known for their fantastic Christmas displays, but as of this month the Brompton Road edifice will be getting a monumental monobrand facelift. An ediface-lift, if you will. The entire thing is being taken over by fashion powerhouse Dior, playing host to an installation reinterpreting the brand’s main motifs, as reinterpreted by artist Pietro Ruffo. With the compass rose, lucky stars and flowers aplenty across the historic window displays, it’ll be a sight to behold. The takeover includes two pop-ups in the store proper, The Fabulous World of Dior at Harrods will run from 10th November to 3rd January. harrods.com

THE NEW NAUTILUS

After months of speculation and credulous farewells to the original 5711, arguably the most successful luxury sports watch ever built (and I include the Royal Oak in that), its successor is finally here. Spiritual successor, anyway. The Ref. 5811/1G-001 offers slightly updated proportions compared to its predecessor, wearing slightly larger and visually more muscular. The downside? No steel – for now. As Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe’s CEO said in an interview with the New York Times, “many brands have been pushing steel because it’s easier to sell, but the major brands don’t have stock anymore. The shops are empty. The business is coming back. There’s no reason why today you should sell only steel watches. We’ll keep steel for sporty watches, mostly the Aquanaut, but it’s dangerous and too easy for me to make only steel.” If you can find someone willing to sell you one, it’ll set you back £56,190.

Find out more at patek.com

“Many brands have been pushing steel because it’s easier to sell, but the major brands don’t have stock”

@gzm.pix

Is there a pilots’ watch series more iconic than IWC’s Mark military aviation collection? We hope not as it was the hand-drawn cover of our last issue, both as the classic Mark XI and the current (and some might say perfected) Mark XX. It looks like we’re not alone in appreciating the utilitarian legibility of the most recent model either, as this week’s shot from Nacho @gzm.pix shows.

Rather than take the aviation theme and run with it, Nacho’s proving that life imitates art that imitates life by showing off his own Mark XX. It’s always cool to see, a clean,

mechanically impressive take on a classic pilots’ instrument – but for our part, we appreciate that it’s been set at the precise same time as our cover. That’s the kind of attention to detail we like to see!

Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month.

For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

SUBSCRIBE

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IN DETAIL

• 42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance

• Edox calibre 80 (SW200) automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• €1,990 (approx. £1,750), edox.ch

INTRO DUCING

EDOX

SkyDiver Automatic

The latest tribute to a watch that first took to the skies back in the 1960s and 70s, EDOX’s most recent version of their flagship SkyDiver updates the normally utilitarian style with a rose gold-tinted bronze case. It might be a big aesthetic tweak, but the big, ultra-legible bronze indexes and contrasting slate blue dial mean that it has all the overt legibility a pilot’s watch requires. Part classic elegance, part rugged tool watch, it shows EDOX is still innovating their classic design 50-odd years on.

LACO Scorpion 39mm

IN DETAIL

• 39mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Sellita SW200 calibre automatic movement with 38hour power reserve

• From €930 (approx. £810), laco.de

A downsized version of a big, chunky tool watch is becoming par for the course these days, but that doesn’t stop each new version being more than welcome – especially when it comes to the Laco Scorpion. As small and tough as its namesake, the new 39mm sizing comes in a trio of highlight colours – blue, green, and orange – but has all the adventure credentials of its larger, older brother. Looking for a colourful, wearable tool watch? You’ve just found it.

THE DETAILS:

• 43.2mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

• Glashutte Original 37-23 calibre automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve

• From £12,000, glashuetteoriginal.com

TAG HEUER X PORSCHE

RS 2.7

If there’s one Carrera more iconic than the TAG Heuer racing watch, it’s the Porsche of the same name. Or the other way around if you’re a car nut. Before war breaks out between those two opinions however, we have a watch that pays tribute to both. Designed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the RS 2.7, this pair of limited editions – one in steel and blue, the other in pink gold and red –pair all the innate racing style of the Carrera chronograph with livery straight out of Porsche history. Watch lover or petrolhead, either way you’ll probably want to get one of these on your wrist.

THE DETAILS:

• 42mm stainless steel or 18K pink gold case with 100m water resistance

• Heuer 02 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve

• £6,400 (steel) / £19,550 (gold), limited to 500 / 250 pieces, tagheuer.com

GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL

SeaQ Chronograph

There’s some debate over whether a chronograph belongs on a dive watch, but when the results look like this it’s hard to argue the negative. With a look like a chunkier, edgier Fifty Fathoms and typically excellent German engineering oozing out of every pore, it’s a handsome retro diver. It’s also pricey enough to be a desk diver, but with a solid 300m of water resistance, it can handle a serious dive session too – and you might just find yourself wanting to try it out.

BELL & ROSS

BR05 Copper Brown

Sometimes a name says it all. Sure, the only thing really new about the BR05 Copper Brown is the dial which is, as you may have guessed, an autumnal copper colour, but honestly that’s enough. It transforms a sporty stainless steel watch with integrated bracelet – you know the type – into a cool statement piece. It comes on both a bracelet and a brown rubber strap, and while the latter amps up the colour, every bone in our body is saying go for the metal. Either way, it brings a fresh new look to Bell & Ross’s current flagship.

THE DETAILS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• BR-CAL.321 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• From £3,800, bellross.com

SEIKO

Presage Sharp Edged ‘Kabuki’ Limited Editions

Seiko’s latest ode to Japanese culture takes on traditional Kabuki theatre, the very form of storytelling that inspired the likes of Akira Kurosawa. It’s the iconic costumes – masks and all – that are at the heart of this pair of limited editions, with a rich red-brown colour to the Sharp Edged collection’s signature faceted dials. Available in a time-and-date version or a more intense calendar model, both are stunning in their autumnal shades and sumptuous finishing. It’s always surprising just how accessible the collection is.

THE DETAILS:

• 39.3mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Seiko 6R35 / 6R21 calibre automatic movement with 70- / 45-hour power reserve

• £900 (date) / £1,030 (calendar), limited to 2,000 pieces, seikoboutique.co.uk

THE ORACLE SPEAKS

The wizardry of the watch world explained

Words by ROSS POVEY

Teddy Dewitte

ALL CHANGE - TROPICAL DIALS

The world of vintage Rolex collecting is equally both complex and could be considered booby-trap laden. Understanding the nuances of the minute differences between the various dials and bezel inserts could drive even the most studious horophile insane. The neophyte and seasoned collector alike can easily be duped into parting with significant sums of money for watches that aren’t what they believe they are and, interestingly, now many dealers openly admit that they too get baffled by the neurotic nuances that are inherent in old Oysters.

Alongside the often misused sales tagline ‘unpolished’ sits the adjective

‘tropical’. What exactly does tropical mean and how does the phenomenon occur? Let’s take a closer look.

The term tropical is applied to numerous brands including, but not limited to, Patek Philippe, Omega, and Tudor. The term originates from the early days of the Vintage Rolex Forum (VRF) when in the early 2000s a group of like-minded passionate Rolex collectors would virtually hang out and discuss all things Wilsdorf. In fact, what is either forgotten or unknown is that a huge proportion of what is generally accepted as ‘gospel’ when it comes to vintage Rolex, was actually discussed, dissected, and defined during the VRF’s heyday.

One such subject is tropical dials. There is an aging process that occurs in

watches from the 1950s and 1960s where the original black glossy dials on Rolex watches turn brown. The change in hue is unique and can range from dark brown to a light caramel tone, and anywhere in between. It also isn’t always a consistent shade on each dial, with single dials being sunrise-esque in the spectrum of colours across it in some cases. What is certain, however, is that these dials always carry a premium and are highly prized by collectors.

The tropical colour change is believed to be as a result of UV light on the dial, with early discoveries coming from warm sunny climates such as South America and other tropical places, hence the nickname. Rolex sports watches from the 50s and 60s were fitted with what collectors term gilt dials. In simple

Early discoveries of the colour change were found in South America and other tropical climates due to the higher levels UV light on the dial, and this unique phenomenon that turns the original black glossy dials on 1950s and 60s Rolex watches a unique shade of brown is highly prized by collectors

What is forgotten or unknown is that a huge proportion of what is generally accepted as ‘gospel’ when it comes to vintage Rolex, was discussed, dissected, and defined during the VRF’s heyday

Tropical dials can easily be misattributed when moisture ingress damages the surface of a dial and sometimes turns it brown. These have on occasion been marketed as tropical dials, instead of… ahem… ‘shitage’ dials, which is the name these damaged dials are given by Rolex aficionados

terms, although nothing is truly simple with vintage Rolex, gilt refers to the gold lettering on the dials. The text is not printed on the gloss surface, but is actually relief print; the gilt text is actually the brass base plate of the dial with the base colour of the dial applied via a galvanic process (an electrical process not dissimilar to gold plating). The dial then has a lacquer applied to protect it.

There is a theory that during this time, Rolex developed a lacquer that was primarily to protect the dial from UV light damage and that it conversely actually exacerbated the issue. We’ll never know if this is true, but what is certain is that true tropical dials have the lacquer layer fully intact and undamaged, without the blistering and hairline cracking that can so often be seen on these old dials. And this is where the issues begin with the misuse of the term tropical. Moisture ingress will, over time, damage the surface of a dial, including the dial sometimes turning brown. This is not a tropical effect and yet often these watches have been marketed as such to try and squeeze a premium out of what is essentially a damaged dial. Rolex aficionados refer to these as ‘shitage’ dials, but I’m too polite to say that in company. Oops…

As the 60s turned into the 70s, so Rolex phased out the gilt dials and welcomed the ‘matte’. These dials had a flatter finish, hence the nickname matte and were fitted to sports watches until around the mid-1980s. Interestingly these dials can also turn brown naturally over time, most notedly on Submariners and the subdials on Daytonas. The colour change exists in other models and references too including blue Submariner dials from the 80s that have turned purple, and white dials in early in-house movement-era Daytonas that turned cream, known as ‘Panna’ dials. These tend not to be referred to as tropical, but as colour change dials. Do they make the watches more desirable? Yes. Does this change add a financial premium? Probably, yes. Does it make the watches look cooler? Oh yes, absolutely!

There is a theory that Rolex developed a lacquer that was primarily to protect the dial from UV light damage and that it conversely exacerbated the issue

DON’T TOUCH THAT DIAL

FROM JAPAN’S DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE TO THE DIAL OF A WATCH, THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE A GRAND SEIKO DIAL

Try a little experiment. Next time you’re chatting about watches to mates – provided they’re not bored to death by calibre talk by now – or go to some Red Baradjacent collectors’ event, bring up the topic of Grand Seiko. What do you think the first thing they’ll start excitedly buzzing about will be?

It could be their movements. The Spring Drive is one of the finest calibres in the world, and the Hi-Beat 36,000 is about as accurate as a non-haute horology automatic movement can get. Or it could be the Japanese brand’s signature Zaratsu polishing, precise to the point of obsession. But let’s be honest, it’s not going to be either of those. It’s going to be Grand Seiko’s dials.

Where Seiko proper and particularly Prospex take their fan-given names from their case shapes – be that the double case of the Tuna, the broad curves of the Turtle, or the razor-sharp edges of the Samurai – Grand Seiko takes theirs from those dials.

The Snowflake might be the most famous of the lot – it was the first Seiko dial of its type back in 1971 –with its look like newly fallen snow, but everything from the Omiwatari (god’s footsteps in Japanese), their seasonally inspired capsule collection, or the various flavours of Birch are all defined by the specific texture on their dials. The one thing each dial has in common however is where they’re drawn from: nature.

Japan’s landscape is breathtaking. I mean it. Dramatic mountains with remote snowscapes, lush valleys woven with rivers and lakes, it could give New Zealand a run for its money when it comes to natural beauty. It’s a landscape that also changes drastically from season to season, be that as short-lived a timeframe as the falling of Sakura blossom or the howling winds and ice of winter.

Yet while most counties have the occasional bucolic scene of note, there’s a reason we don’t, for example, have a watch dedicated to the slate scabble of the Peak District, and that’s related to how the land is treated in Japan.

I’m not going to delve into the particularities of Shintō or the historical nuance behind Japan’s relationship with nature – you can read about that from much more informed sources than a watch magazine. I’m also not going to wax philosophical about Grand Seiko’s own ‘Nature of Time’ concept. Suffice to say that the Japanese treat nature with reverence, to the point where pure water sources are protected, forests conserved, and the varied landscapes of the country form an integral part of the social consciousness. It’s therefore not too big a surprise that Grand Seiko has invariably turned to nature for their dials.

Specifically, most of their inspiration comes from just outside their own front door in Shizukuishi. They reflect every aspect of their locale on the watches, whether that’s the gorgeous Lake Suwa, the local birch forests, or the active volcano of Mt. Iwate. Yet it’s more than just because it’s there that Shizukuishi’s natural charms are so inspiring; it’s because sometimes they’re not.

As Junichi Kamata, Grand Seiko’s Design Director, puts it, “when in doubt I seek an answer in natural forms. Just the other day, looking at a campfire, I was fascinated by the organic forms that will never appear again. A famous passage from Hojoki written by Kamo no Chomei in 13th century Japan is always in the corner of my mind: the flowing river is ceaseless, and its water is never the same.”

“The dial base has a very deep expression from the combination of the four main elements,” explains

They reflect every aspect of their locale on the watches, whether that’s the gorgeous Lake Suwa, the local birch forests, or the active volcano of Mt. Iwate

The details make the dial in every Grand Seiko, but whatever the variation (right), the one thing each dial has in common is that they’re drawn from Japan’s nature, thanks to its inspirationally dramatic mountains with remote snowscapes and lush valleys woven with rivers and lakes

Referencing the quartet of stamping, base plating, undercoating, and wrap coating, “the dial base has a very deep expression from the combination of the four main elements,” according to Junichi Kamata, Grand Seiko’s Design Director

Inspired

Shizukuishi region

Japan,

Seiko

Japanese

Kamata, referencing the quartet of stamping, base plating, undercoating, and wrap coating. To get just what he means, let’s take the Birch pattern as an example. Since launching last year, its become Grand Seiko’s most popular watch, so where better to start?

The mould for the original design concept – that of the delicate bark of the birch tree – took six months to complete, using both CAD machines and by-hand watchmaking for the balance of razor-sharp accuracy and fine details. This is then used to stamp – via seven, low-impact pressings - a brass dial blank which provides the pattern, but not the finish, of the Birch. Pattern pressed, the dial’s then cut down to size and holes punched for the indexes and date window, with any excess metal being shaved away. That’s all just the first step; then the finishing can begin.

First, the metal is brushed to create vertical strokes to add texture and catch the light. That’s not easy to do while keeping the integrity of the stamped pattern, as Grand Seiko dial engineer Hikaru Matsumoto explains: “we have to be careful not to overdo the brushing, as this could make the surface appear too bright. But at the same time, we need a certain level of shine to make the stamped pattern really stand out.” To achieve that balance, Grand Seiko managed to find a watch of brushing without the usual abrasive,

using a much smaller brush than normal. Because brushing it before stamping would have been far too easy (or more accurately, not have had the same quality of finish).

Pattern and brushing firmly entrenched, the dial is then silver plated and given an undercoat, clear in the case of the White Birch, otherwise the same colour as the finished dial. Even that’s easier said than done, given the plating underneath can affect the undercoat, in turn affecting the finished colour. Finally, the dial is wrap coated, where additional layers of paint are added and polished down repeatedly to get the finished result. In the case of the Birch, which has a particularly deep texture, that means 14 to 15 layers.

At this point, the dial as we know it is finished. Sure, there’s plenty more to do – the printing of the logo, lettering and minute track, the addition of the polished indexes and date window – but the essence of what makes a Grand Seiko dial is there. That’s if it passes inspection anyway: “we use a magnifying glass to check the details from an insect’s point of view,” explains Kamata,

While certain little touches may change slightly from dial to dial (you can’t have a one-size-fits-all approach to something like this) the overall process is the same from one beautifully textured dial to the next – that next being the new Snowscape.

Here the dial texture is inspired by Mt. Iwate, the active volcano that’s integral to the Shizukuishi landscape. Rather than the dusting of fresh snow that was the Snowflake, the Snowscape is the heart of a blizzard at the top of the mountain. It’s icier, harsher with the texture in different directions like it’s being whipped in a strong wind. It’s intense – and it’s gorgeous.

With Grand Seiko’s polished, faceted indexes and a 40mm case in Ever Bright Steel (there’s a whole other article in the watchmaker’s proprietary alloys), the only colour contrast is a blued steel second hand.

Behind that dial is the 9SA5 hi-beat movement, the same as in the White Birch – high in this case meaning a frequency of 36,000 beats per hour. If more beats per hour means a more accurate movement – and it does – then this is one hell of an accurate movement. It also comes complete an 80-hour power reserve, just to top things off.

As ever though, while the ‘Snowscape’ Hi-Beat 44GS has a lot going for it in the proprietary case material and the superb movement, like any Grand Seiko outside of the Evolution 9 collection – an entirely different range of watches – it’s the dial that defines the new release. But it’s not alone; most appreciation of Grand Seiko is dial deep, your watch of choice largely depending on whether you prefer tree bark to blossom or mountain ice to ripples in a lake. For once though, with the effort lavished on every dial from blank to watch, it feels like that’s just the way it should be.

The amount of effort lavished on the dial is represented in the high quality of the finish, as proven by the birch tree mould for the original design concept that took six months to complete, using both CAD machines and by-hand watchmaking for the balance of razor-sharp accuracy and fine details

OMEGA SEAMASTER 007 BY INKDIAL

After he illustrated our previous cover, we’ve become a little obsessed with the work of Ben Li, better known by his Instagram handle, Inkdial. Any fan of both watchmaking and James Bond will likely feel the same after seeing this two-piece tribute to No Time to Die. Created using markers and pen on premium paper to A4 size, it’s incredibly detailed, right down to the Milanese bracelet. With one print showing 007 on a Triumph motorbike, the other the iconic DB5, it’s the best Daniel Craig’s looked in the past five years. £120 for a set of two prints, inkdial.co.uk

YES, YES, IT’S THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN, SLEIGH BELLS RINGING, CHILDREN SINGING, ALL THE DISGUSTINGLY WHOLESOME SEASONAL FARE THAT MEANS CHRISTMAS IS COMING FAR TOO SOON. IN UNDER TWO MONTHS, IN FACT, WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE FAR LESS THAN THAT TO GET YOUR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING DONE. THAT SOUNDS LIKE A DECENT AMOUNT OF TIME, BUT FOR OUR PART IT’S TAKEN THE OTHER 10 MONTHS OF THE YEAR TO PULL TOGETHER ONE OR TWO, AND ONLY THEN BECAUSE THEY ARRIVED TOO LATE LAST YEAR. NEVER FEAR THOUGH! BEFORE YOU START PANIC BUYING BOXES OF CHOCOLATES, SIT DOWN, GRAB AN EGGNOG AND LET US GIVE YOU OUR OWN FORM OF CHRISTMAS MIRACLE: THE ORACLE TIME CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2022. WHETHER YOU’RE BUYING FOR THE WOMAN IN YOUR LIFE, A FELLOW WATCH LOVER, OR WANT TO DROP A FEW VERY UNSUBTLE HINTS AROUND THE HOUSE (UNFORTUNATELY YOU’LL NEED TO PROVIDE YOUR OWN SHARPIE) READ ON FOR LUXURY GIFTS APLENTY.

Edited By SAM KESSLER

ROYAL OAK: FROM ICON TO ICONOCLAST

There’s no watch as instantly recognisable as the Royal Oak; its octagonal bezel redefined luxury watches back in the 70s and its legacy’s only loomed larger since. This gorgeous book from Maison Assouline explores precisely how and why it became the definitive sports luxe watch, shedding light on new archival materials, and the timepiece’s broader cultural impact. Throw in a few testimonies from friends of the brand and prominent collectors and you have the biography of the Royal Oak. It looks good on your coffee table, too.

£195, maisonassouline.com

BENNET WINCH TRIPLE WATCH ROLL

A seriously luxurious travel roll that won’t frustrate you by, you know, rolling, Bennet Winch’s supremely well-designed hexagonal take on the classic horological travel accessory is a British-made masterstroke. With space for three different watches and available in black or brown leather, the combination of flexible Kevlar core and Alcantara suede lining makes for a surprisingly rugged piece that’s soft enough to protect your timepieces without danger of scratching. While a few more colours wouldn’t go amiss, this is the kind of watch roll that says ‘serious collector’ whenever and wherever you take it out. £595, bennetwinch.com

LOUPE SYSTEM & MB&F PROJECT LPX

What do you get when you combine arguably the best watch magnifiers in the world with an absurdly out-of-the-box watchmaker? This: a rocket ship dedicated to watch detail. The bright blue rocket doubles as storage space for up to three Loupe System loupes, two of which offer different magnifications with which to appreciate the finer minutiae of your timepieces. Better yet, it’s a visual upgrade that you can take digital with a universal clip for your phone. That macro shot you’ve been trying to get for your Instagram? This is how you do it. And if you need to take it with you to find watches in the wild, it all packs up into a travel case. It’s pricey, but who can really put a price on that perfect close-up?

CHF 3,300 (approx £2,925), loupesystem.com

CASED IN TIME SINGLE WATCH CASE

Fine leather’s all well and good but sometimes you just need a simple, rugged and ideally cool layer of protection for your horological travel companion of choice. Between the rugged nylon outer shell and EVA inner shell, this svelte, colourful number from Cased in Time offers 360-degree protection. It’s as simple and effective as a tried-and-tested field watch, and with an extensive range of eye-catching colours (we’re having a hard time deciding between the red and green) there’s a case for every watch. Best of all? It won’t break the bank. One for each dial colour in the collection perhaps?

From £18, casedintime.com

TEMPORAL GOODS RIGID CASE

Made from a combination of aerospace-grade aluminium and high modulus carbon fibre for strength and lightness, along with a microsuede lining to avoid scratching your watch, this hardwearing case from Temporal Goods can take everything the elements throw at it. The patent-pending design is water resistant and dust-proof and comes with a lifetime warranty. It’s the gift that keeps on giving protection to a timeless timepiece, all crowned with a fun, dial-inspired lid. $350 (approx. £307), temporalgoods.com

JEAN ROUSSEAU VINTAGE STRAP

A decent vintage watch deserves a strap to match –especially given most older leather straps might not be looking too healthy a few decades on. Yet rather than lose that aged look, instead opt for a piece from French leather maestro Jean Rousseau. Their Vintage strap collection offers a hand-patina for their sumptuous calfskin, pairing perfectly with a subtly aged dial and case that’s a few birthdays past pristine. There are a number of options, the patent brown being the safest, but for our money the pale green is the perfect counterpoint to a 50s-era dial.

£120, jean-rousseau.com

SCATOLA DEL TEMPO ROTOR ONE RACING

If you’re fed up with keeping your calendar watch fully wound by hand (the alternative being having to set day, date, month, year and time again) then you’ll want a decent automatic watch winder – and if it’s as well-tuned as a supercar then all the better. Italian winder specialist Scatola del Tempo has all bases covered with the latest automotive inspired version of their sleek Rotor One. In sleek black with bright yellow stitching for that high contrast, performance vibe, it’ll keep your watch ticking for up to three years straight before you need to switch out the batteries.

£550, scatoladeltempo.com

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It’ll keep your watch ticking for up to three years straight

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It’s the gift that keeps on giving protection to a timeless timepiece

TECH OBSESSIVE

MARANTZ MODEL 40N AMPLIFIER

The amplifier is the heart of any sound system, the core to which everything else can be added, be that a retro record player for a hipster vinyl listening session, or a Tidal-linked cross-home streaming system. Marantz’s recently redesigned 40n sets a new standard from the New York-based audio specialists, offering both superb craftsmanship and wireless connectivity with built-in streaming. It still keeps that lovely analogue sound across media – and still has a phono EQ for analogue sources – but with the ease of use of a digital system. In short, all you need to do is add speakers.

£2,200, marantz.com

RAY-BAN STORIES WAYFARER

If you think this particular gift suggestion’s in the wrong section, look a little closer. While Google Glass was a goof, it hasn’t stopped connectivity working its way into every type of accessory, including the venerable Wayfarer sunglasses from Ray-Ban. This timelessly stylish pair of sunnies includes dual 5mp cameras for extreme first-person video, speakers for calls and audio, and touch controls to make it all work without having to open your phone. It’s the most futuristic these decidedly retro frames have ever been. And yes, it comes with proper, prescription lenses.

£299, ray-ban.com

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Marantz’s recently redesigned 40n sets a new standard

GOPRO HERO11 BLACK CREATOR EDITION

Forget recording video in your cramped home office; the latest edition of GoPro’s night indestructible camera lets you stream from the top of a mountain (signal pending, of course). This all-in-one on-the-move streaming system comes complete with a tripod-come-handgrip, a lighting module, and four hours of 4K recording in a single charge. Complete with GoPro’s legendary image stabilisation, that’s enough to vlog an entire morning of black runs in gorgeous, lifelike colour, and incredible wide shots. Or you could just use it as a space saver in your aforementioned home office. If you insist. £579.98, gopro.com

OURA RING GEN3

If you’re wracked with indecision over whether to track your health via a wearable gadget watch, or style it out with an actual mechanical timepiece, this may be just the ticket. A simple, discrete finger ring, the Oura Gen3 nonetheless monitors your sleep, activity, recovery, heart rate, temperature, and plenty more with research-grade accuracy. It’s more accurate than many a fitness watch, has seven days of battery life (though it can take as little as 20 minutes to charge) and looks good whether you get a plain silver version, something a little rockier in black (like here), or go for the full jewellery look in gold.

From £299, ouraring.com

MEZE AUDIO X IFI AUDIOPHILE STARTER KIT

The 99 Classics is arguably the model that put Meze Audio’s near-perfect audiophile headphones on the map, so how can they be made better? By adding in iFi’s incredible ZEN CAN Signature MZ99 headphone amplifier. Pairing the superlative listening experience of the headphones with the additional audio excellence that the specifically-tuned MZ99 brings to proceedings – think more vivacious treble and enhanced mid-low bass – for the kind of on-the-go listening you usually don’t get outside a well-equipped listening room. The fact that the pair look amazing is just the pin-drop-clear cherry on top. €499 (approx. £435), mezeaudio.eu

TROVA GO BIOMETRIC SMART SAFE

Now, there are many reasons you might want a small, subtle, protective case that only you can open. There might even be some completely above-board reasons. We’re not about to pry into what you might need it for (and neither will anyone else), but you can rest assured that whatever it is this smart, biometrically locked travel case will keep it safe and sound. With seamless phone connectivity, you can even track the Trova GO’s status and last known location. You know, just in case whatever you have stashed in there is making you a little bit paranoid.

£179, trovaofficial.com

SARTORIALIST

CLEMENTS AND CHURCH –TRAVELLING TAILOR SERVICE

In a man’s wardrobe there’s no crown jewel quite so bright as a well-tailored suit. To have a suit fit your frame perfectly in materials you’ve helped pick out in a style that you love is a special thing indeed. However, in this busy world we call life, finding the time to head to a boutique to begin the process can be difficult. Fortunately, Clements and Church will come to you with their travelling tailor service that will see you receive a full store experience anywhere in the country, whether your office, at home, or anywhere else. £2,000 - £3,000, find out more at clementsandchurch.co.uk

WALKER SLATER – HARRIS TWEED RUCKSACK

Walker Slater was founded in 1987 with one mission, to champion the traditional hardwearing fabrics of the Scottish Highlands. More than 30 years later with flagship stores in Edinburgh, Glasgow, and London it’s safe to say they have been successful. While they’re best known for their tailoring service and suits for men and women, they also showcase the versatility of their favoured materials by producing items like this fabulous Harris Tweed Rucksack with zip compartment, buckle straps, and useful side pockets.

£125, available from walkerslater.com

MONTEGRAPPA –FOUNTAIN PEN

Elegance goes beyond clothing, and having equally stylish accessories and instruments is just as important. Montegrappa produce exquisite writing implements of all varieties including gold fountain pens with artisanal resin bodies. The intricate pattern pictured here is part of their zodiac series, specifically Pisces, and it has an intriguing meld of red, white, and green that creates a rich depth of colour. A zodiac pen makes for a great personalised gift, although if that’s not to your taste then Montegrappa’s regular collections include almost any style and design you could possibly imagine.

€770 (approx. £675), available from montegrappa.com

SEVEN LAYER – L7^ MDO BLACK

Seven Layer (7L) is a British brand which adheres to the military concept of the ‘seven layer system’. The system is designed to keep soldiers as comfortable as possible in hostile environments without impacting their operational capacity. If it’s hot, you have plenty of layers to take off, if it’s cold you have layers you can put on. It’s a system that works just as well for civilian explorers as it does for the military. This is the L7^ MDO Black, an outer layer designed to keep you warm and protect you from the wind while remaining lightweight.

£395, available from sevenlayer.com

VIVVANT – SNOWDON CAMEL SUEDE AND LEATHER MILITARY BOOTS WITH HANDPAINTED SAFARI SOLE

Vivvant use signature British design with Italian craftsmanship to create sophisticated footwear for the modern, urban man. The Snowdon Camel Suede and Leather Military Boots with Handpainted Safari Soles are handcrafted in Florence with dramatic animal print soles that provide masculine character and undeniable flair to complement their rugged appearance. They’re completed with a chunky zip for comfort and security on the foot, as well as Vivvant’s signature triple V leather stitch logo on the back.

£345, available from vivvant.co.uk

MAISON MARGIELA – FOUR STITCH LEATHER GLOVES

A good pair of gloves is a winter essential, but just because they’re functional doesn’t mean they can’t be lavish. These Maison Margiela Four Stitch Leather Gloves are made from a combination of cashmere, virgin wool and Italian leather. The four white stitches that can be seen on the back of each glove, hidden within the intricate grey and black crosshatching, are a reference to the anonymity of the Maison’s founder. £660, available from harrods.com

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Just because they’re functional doesn’t mean they can’t be lavish

MULBERRY BAYSWATER

TOTE

Colourful? Check. Practical? Check. From one of the most renowned maisons on British shores? Double check. Mulberry’s Bayswater tote bag is a classic design done in a distinctly modern way. The cavernous inside has space for anything you care to throw at it, complete with a removable internal pocket for additional organisation, and the heavy grain leather can stand up to some wear. Pair that with the eye-catching palette of colours – especially this incredible yellow – and you can match it to any outfit. Finished with the label’s signature Postman’s Lock, just make sure you get the right colour. Or, more likely, colours. £750, mulberry.com

HERBELIN GALET AUTOMATIC

To celebrate 75 years of French watchmaking, Herbelin has launched a downright lovely women’s collection as smooth and tactile as its name: Galet, French for pebble. The gorgeously curved timepiece pairs a glamorous white mother-of-pearl dial with zirconium hour markers for a look that’s far more luxurious than its price tag. Equipped with a workhorse Sellita movement, yes there’s an emphasis on accessibility, but the Galet has plenty of charms above and beyond that. Set on an equally curvaceous bracelet, this is a watch that’s aesthetically stunning at any price point. £765, herbelin.com

A look that’s far more luxurious than its price tag

The one gift you really, really can’t get wrong

FOPE PANORAMA FLEX’IT BRACELET

If you’re looking for a piece of jewellery that’s a stylistic cut above a standard gold band, then Fope is more than worth a look. The Italian jewellery house’s enticingly tactile, uniquely flexible take on gold makes for a more subtle look than diamonds on every surface. The latest, five-link Panorama bracelet is a stunner; a shifting band of seemingly woven gold that’s not only beautiful, but comfortable too. Finished with a single white diamond and available in white, rose, and yellow gold it falls on that fine line between everyday luxury and full-on glamour.

From €4,820 (approx. £4,190), fope.com

PULLMAN EDITIONS CHAMONIX: SKI LOVERS POSTER

Whether its for the glorious colours of a glamorous vintage travel poster or the romantic scene set in the crown jewel of the French Alps, this beautiful ode to Chamonix perfectly encapsulates the champagne lifestyle of ski season. Whether you head to the pistes religiously each year or have great memories of the one time you strapped on a pair of skis, Pullman’s signature style makes for the perfect wall-mounted momento. At just under a metre high, it’s also quite the design statement.

£420, pullmaneditions.com

HERMÈS LANTERNES, BALLONS ET COCARDES SCARF 90

You can never have too many printed silk scarves – or so we’ve been told – especially if said scarves are from Hermès. Not only is this large stretch of silk as sumptuous as we’ve come to expect from the Parisian fashion house, but the colourful mix of Noah’s Ark inspired animal pairings and Chinese lanterns makes for a cacophony of quirky silhouettes. It’s a dazzling take on the classic Hermès accessory and makes for a serious statement piece, whether it’s for wearing or honestly, just hanging on the wall. It’s a stunner.

£370, hermes.com

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LA COLLECTION PRIVÉE CHRISTIAN DIOR

Fragrance is deeply personal. Each scent conjures up different connotations and what works for one person might not for someone else. Fortunately, that’s very unlikely to be an issue with this perfume gift set from Dior. The set of 10 miniatures brings together the brands most iconic fragrances, from Ambre Nuit to Vanilla Diorama to Spice Blend. Whether you’re playing it safe with a variety pack or buying for someone that likes to change up their fragrance on the regular, a little Dior goes a long way. £200, dior.com

It’s a dazzling take on the classic Hermès accessory and makes for a serious statement piece

EXPERIENCES

DOWN TO THE DEEPS

Billionaires might be obsessed with space but some of the most alien landscapes you could imagine can be found right here on Earth. We’re of course talking about the world waiting to be discovered below the surface of the

ocean, and you can experience it in comfort and luxury with a privately chartered submarine. Charter A Sub is the official submarine chartering service of U-Boat Worx, one of the premier submersible manufacturers. Their service allows you to rent a submarine capable of diving to depths of up to 300m, plus all the required crew, pilots, and equipment is provided. You can even charter a yacht capable

of carrying it all if you don’t have a suitable vessel – meaning there are virtually no limitations on where your underwater adventure can be located.

Price: One Week C-Explorer 5 Sub Charter, €80,000 (approx. £70,420) plus crew and operational fees. Learn more at charterasub.com

INSIDE WATCHMAKING

As watch specialists, we often take our chances to visit some of the most magnificent manufacturers in the world for granted. But now you too can appreciate fine watchmaking in the… well, making – and not just at some low-key seminar. We’re talking Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the grandest maisons in Switzerland, which is offering a horological experience of a lifetime with Atelier d’Antoine. Hosted in a dedicated space in JLC’s historic Le Sentier manufacturer, you can discover all there is to know about the watchmaker and Swiss watchmaking in general via workshops, tours, and masterclasses, alongside specially themed rooms – this year’s delving into JaegerLeCoultre’s current stellar odyssey. A rare insight behind the usually opaque bar between watches and how they’re made, this is a serious opportunity for any watch lover, whether they own a Reverso or not. Visits from CHF 40 (approx. £35);

Masterclasses from CHF 300 (approx. £265), online-booking.jaeger-lecoultre.com

ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Italy is a country built for driving. Between the jaw dropping scenery and penchant for spectacular sports cars, there are few better places for a grand tour. Loan Luxury is an Italian company offering bespoke grand tour experiences with an extensive fleet of luxury sports cars ready for you to jump behind the wheel of. In their stable you can find cars like the Aston Martin DB11 Volante, Audi R8 Spyder, Ferrari Roma, Lamborghini Huracan and many, many more. Example trips include the Lake Como Tour, which circumnavigates the entirety of the famous lake. Alternatively, they offer a totally bespoke experience where you help to shape the itinerary, covering any corner of Italy, travelling in convoy with multiple supercars that you can swap between at a moment’s notice.

Enquire at loanluxury.it

FACE THE SHACKLETON CHALLENGE

This is not for the faint of heart as it requires supreme fitness and mental fortitude as you battle against the elements.

ON YOUR BIKE

Sometimes the best experiences are about taking it slow and enjoying life at your own pace. That’s the mantra of Butterfield & Robinson, which offer numerous experiences across the globe that are designed to combine sporty activity, gorgeous local cuisine, and comfortable accommodation. Take for example the Uruguay Active adventure, a seven day expedition involving cycling and kayaking with stops at the Bodega Garzon winery. There’s nothing that can compare to exploring a new country by bike, experiencing the local culture at street level, and reaching areas that you simply can’t access when you’re tied down to a car.

Price: Uruguay Active, $9,995 (approx. £9,020). Find out more at butterfield.com

Ernest Shackleton is one of the greatest heroes of Antarctic exploration, and with the Shackleton Challenges extreme polar expedition and training crew you can relive his adventures all over again. The South Pole Last Degree Challenge recreates the final stretch of Shackleton’s journey to the South Pole and consists of a 12-day ski expedition across some of the harshest terrain on the planet.

ZERO GS? ZERO PROBLEMS

If you’re looking to get the polar experience without quite so much of a challenge, they also provide more accessible adventures such as the Finse Polar Skills Challenge. It’s suitable for novices and teaches you the core skills needed over a six day trip in Norway.

Price: South Pole Last Degree Challenge, £59,995. Finse Polar Skills Challenge, £6,495. Book now at shackleton.com

By now we’re all familiar with the concept of Zero G flights. Board a plane, climb into the air, experience weightlessness, float around, take some photos. However, such a simple description doesn’t do justice to what is truly a magical, once in a lifetime experience. And we speak with first hand experience because back in April we sent a member of the Oracle Time team to check it out alongside watchmaker Zenith. Air Zero G operate out of Bordeaux, in France, and offer a full range of zero g experiences ranging from public flights to private events and scientific research. It certainly makes for a memorable birthday or wedding.

Price: Public Flights from €6,900 (approx. £6,050).

Book now at airzerog.com

It certainly makes for a memorable birthday or wedding

DUKESHILL TRULY MAGNIFICENT HAMPER (TOP PICK)

Year after year, Dukeshill creates the most luxurious hampers you can get your hands on. A selection of over 39 gourmet treats await in their signature hamper, as you tuck into some of the best European cuisine available. From their award-winning Boneless St. George’s Ham to worldclass cheese, iconic fish cuts, and fine wines, your festive hosting needs are more than met. If sweet treats are also your thing, the vast amount of cakes and pastries are sure to delight the taste buds. A Christmas must-have from one of the best British food purveyors in the country. dukeshillham.co.uk

CROSSTOWN CHRISTMAS HAMPER

It’s time we dared to venture beyond the traditional strawberry jam doughnut and check out the reason why Crosstown has become such a sensation over the past few years. Expect a six-pack of festive doughnuts including flavours such as Black Forest Cake, Pear & Ginger, and Brown Butter & Chestnut. This festive indulgence also includes almond butter, a selection of chocolates, salted caramel truffles, your choice of specialty coffee, and for those with an extra sweet-tooth, a pint of their award-winning small-batch ice cream.

£74.95 from Crosstown Doughnuts

THE BEST LUXURY HAMPERS FOR 2022

Take the hard work out of gifting and indulgence by choosing one of these handcrafted hampers. Here are the top picks of the year for your 2022 hamper inspiration

a six-pack including Black Forest Cake, Pear & Ginger, and Brown

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MOUSE & GRAPE

ULTIMATE CHRISTMAS HAMPER

You can’t have Christmas without cheese and this small but fierce cheesemonger is quickly growing in popularity. Three phenomenal wines (a 2013 vintage Grand Cru Champagne, 2017 Royal Tokaji, and 2012 Bordeaux Grand Cru) are paired with a variety of their best-

selling cheeses, crackers, jams, honeys, and some extra goodies. Truffle brie, Colston Bassett Stilton, 48 month aged gouda, and Saint Maure De Touraine all make an appearance. The only thing you need to bring is an appetite.

£225 from Mouse & Grape

WHITE COMPANY CALM HAMPER

Everything you need for a little peace and serenity. This calming and nourishing set includes an electronic diffuser, calm candle, wellness fragrance oil sets, spa retreat shower gel, body oil, and retreat mist.

£190 from The White Company “

Everything you need for a little peace and serenity

PARKS CANDLES SWEET DREAMS SET

As the winter months roll in and it becomes darker much earlier, it’s always nice to have a bit more comfort. For those who love candles, I can think of no better candlemaker than Parks London. Their Sweet Dreams set contains some of their most soothing scents, including: Bergamot & Rose, White Jasmine & Ylang Ylang, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, and Lavender. Guaranteed to give you a restful night’s sleep every time.

£195 from Parks Candles London

PETROSSIAN CAVIAR: FROM EAST TO WEST ASSORTMENT SET

Caviar fans, this one’s for you. The world famous Petrossian started in Paris in 1920. Since then they’ve been supplying some of the finest luxury cuisine to all corners of the earth. Caviar is a particular speciality of theirs and this custom set contains 30g of their prestigious Ossetra Royal, Baeri Baïka Royal, Sevruga Steluga Royal, Daurenki Royal, and Ossetra Tsar Impérial. Five caviars, five unique experiences.

£385 from Petrossian

THE F&CO LUXURY STEAK CHRISTMAS HAMPER

A little over turkey? Fear not. Farmison & Co have put together a gourmet Steak feast with their hand trimmed centre cut fillet. Basted with their divine truffle and parmesan butter, alongside a rich red wine sauce and smooth luxury buttered mash, indulgence is at an all-time high.

£95 from Farmison & Co

Indulgence is at an all-time high

ULTIMATE AVENTUS GIFT SET

Senses are one of the most important things we have, which is why smelling great is always a must. Over the years, Creed has become a cult fragrance, embraced by many in search of the ultimate scent. This stylish duo hamper contains their bestselling Aventus Cologne alongside its invigorating bath and shower gel counterpart. An easy decision for anyone who likes to be in the know of the latest styles, trends, and fragrances. £275 from Harvey Nichols

LOUIS XIII: THE DROP

The most iconic cognac in the world has launched something new and it couldn’t be better timed for Christmas. If you’ve ever been intrigued to taste the stunning liquid within a Louis XIII decanter, now is your chance. Each bottle of The Drop contains five individual 10ml bottles (or just one) in creatively designed vessels named Loud, Glow, Bold, Smooth, and Bright, each with their own colour design. Once consumed, it doubles as a key fashion accessory with various shoulder strap colours to match whatever outfit you’ve planned for the day.

£160 (one-pack) or £760 (five-pack) from Harrods “

Once consumed, it doubles as a key fashion accessory with various shoulder strap colours

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the UK

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

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Inspired by the

Oracle Time

Swagger season

> > Draped in funky colours and fine tailoring with a stunning Cartier on your wrist and a cocktail in hand, it can only be the season of well-heeled seasonal gatherings. And there no reason why you shouldn’t look crisper than a Pringle with help of our even more well-heeled shoe guide, or unleash your cocktail laced spirit party animal, as imagined by Mathias Lefevre in our Style shoot. All the while with a watch of equal swagger, naturally. Should the desire to keep the party going entrench itself then there’s always a deep dive into how rave culture

casual fashion. Either way, be sure to stay suitably refreshed.

peterjwalsh.com

RAVE NEW WORLD

How the UK partied its way to a fashion revolution

Fuelled by a chemical urge to dance, the hedonistic youth movement that was acid house exploded onto to dancefloors in the 1980s, liberally bringing together people from all walks of life together, whether they were punks, football hooligans, black, white, gay, straight or otherwise, changing attitudes and even fashion in the process

Baggy dungarees, bucket hats, and tie-dye technicolour madness. Looking back at the ecstasy-fuelled fashion choices of ravers in the late 1980s and early ‘90s, you might struggle to spot a link between this hedonistic youth movement and the clothes hanging in your own wardrobe. But there is one.

The acid-house scene changed a lot in a relatively short space of time. It was more than simply a subculture; it was an overarching movement that brought people from all walks of life together. It didn’t matter if you were a punk, a football hooligan, black, white, gay, straight or otherwise – everyone was

there to do one thing: dance. And with serotonin levels through the roof thanks to those little magic pills, an energy of love and unity proliferated.

It was a transformative time that changed the cultural habits of a generation. Boundaries were broken down, new paradigms established, and club culture was rebuilt from the ground up. But the scene’s influence didn’t stop there. It’s less talked about, but look at the sartorial landscape pre and post acid house and you’ll notice a fundamental change in the way that people dress; a change that’s still being felt today.

THE SECOND SUMMER OF LOVE

In the mid-1980s, a new style of music began to creep into DJ sets at nightclubs and parties in the UK. Typified by energetic beats, squelching basslines, euphoric piano stabs, and sampled vocals, this new genre, dubbed acid house, became the soundtrack to the most seismic youth-culture revolution since the sixties: a second Summer of Love.

On its own, the music was exciting enough, but when combined with the arrival of ecstasy – a new drug that would keep people dancing, hugging and gurning into the small hours and beyond – it became something else entirely.

“Ecstasy intensified the experience and also meant the crowd were pretty responsive to dancing to music they had not heard before, which was very liberating,” says author and former acid-house DJ Dave Haslam in Luke Bainbridge’s 2013 book, The True Story of Acid House. “Although sometimes I think you could have played a recording of a Hoover and 2,000 people would have screamed with joy.

“When you DJ you’re mostly faced with a crowd waiting to be entertained and it’s your challenge to whip them up into a frenzy. But that early acid house era was different; you were faced with 2,000 baying people on the verge of such euphoria their heads were almost exploding. You almost felt like you had to hold them back a bit, like someone trying to guide wild horses.”

During the summer of 1988, acid house transformed from a fringe movement, involving small pockets of clued-up clubbers in London and Manchester, into an explosive nationwide cultural phenomenon that saw tens-of-thousands of loved-up ravers packing out clubs, abandoned warehouses, basements, and fields. The partygoers came from far and wide, which meant there were lots of different fashions on display, particularly in the early days. At the Haçienda, the iconic Manchester venue that helped bring acid house to the masses via its ‘Nude’ club night, people were still rocking up in suits with shoulder pads as late as early 1988. But as the scene grew, a more relaxed way of dressing took over.

The acid house era heralded a transformative change to the cultural habits of a generation that brought about the most seismic youth-culture revolution since the sixties dubbed the second Summer of Love, which was typified by baggy dungarees, bucket hats, and tie-dye technicolour madness

As partygoers from across the country converged in the name of relentlessly dancing to repetitive beats, there was a notable shift in fashion at iconic venues like the Haçienda in Manchester that saw yuppie suits with shoulder pads make way for a considerably more relaxed way of dressing

DANCEFLOOR FASHION

“Clothes became a way to nonverbally communicate to like-minded people once you were outside of a club or a rave,” explains Manchester-based DJ, brand consultant and content creator Neil Summers. “In the early days, being a raver was like being part of a secret society, so glimpsing a small smiley badge or a Berghaus fleece would often let you know you were talking to a fellow devotee.”

From the summer of 1988 onwards, relaxed fits, European labels and bright colours spread throughout the crowds like wildfire. Loose and comfortable, these were clothes to be danced in, and

As the eighties entered its final year, bright colours covered the dancefloor, as partygoers replaced shoes and heels with trainers, and shirts and blouses were subbed for baggy sweats from labels like Stone Island, Chipie, Lacoste, Naf Naf, Palladium, and Chevignon

were in stark contrast to the suits and shirts people were wearing to nightclubs just a year earlier.

“In 1988 I was wearing baggy white tees, coach jackets, chambray shirts, vintage Levi’s 501s or dungarees and Converse Chucks,” says Summers.

“Then in 1989, denim went white (or flared) and tops got looser. European/ French labels became a thing too, with the likes of Chipie, Lacoste, Naf Naf, Palladium, and Chevignon all being very popular.

After that, things went a little more American sportswear, with Russel Athletic and Champion sweatshirts. Trainers also became a much bigger

focus. Adidas Torsions, Superstars, and Nike Cortez were some of the most popular models.”

Obviously, the clothes were a part of it, but perhaps to a much lesser degree than in some other youth movements. The inclusive nature of ecstasy meant that in addition to the barriers of race, class, sexual orientation and gender coming down, so too did sartorial barriers.

“People would be more inclined to tell you that they liked what you wore,” said Summers. “But in the grand scheme of having the best night of your life in a room full of equally loved-up people, what you were wearing really wasn’t that important.”

DRESS-CODE DISINTEGRATION

The clothes may not have seemed overly important at the time, but looking back it’s clear to see the impact this era had on the way people dress. Acid house and ecstasy brought a carefree attitude to the culture that bled into fashion for generations to come. Over the past few decades, we’ve seen dress codes erode beyond recognition compared to what they were 30 years ago, and acid house was one of the catalysts that set this process in motion.

Ultimately, the scene fell apart. Media hysteria, new government legislation prohibiting mass gatherings, and widespread police crackdowns all played a part. Acid house had become too big for its own good, and people eventually moved on. But even after the dust had settled, the unofficial uniform remained. Clothing designed to be worn for sport and leisure was now the norm. Trainers replaced shoes and heels, and baggy sweats replaced shirts and blouses.

“Before rave music there was still a formality to fashion that no longer exists now,” said Summers. “People get married wearing trainers, go to work in tracksuits, and buy clothes designed or endorsed by their favourite DJs and musicians.”

It’s something to think about the next time you breeze past a nightclub bouncer clad in a T-shirt and trainers, or when you rock up at the office in a hoodie. Had it not been for acid house, there’s every chance you’d be getting turned away at the door.

“Being a raver was like being part of a secret society, so glimpsing a smiley badge would let you know you were talking to a fellow devotee”

There are plenty of reasons not to look forward to winter. The encroaching cold, the longer nights, the everlooming spectre of Christmas on the horizon. But it does have one major upside: parties. Office parties, parties with friends, parties with family, parties over dinner or drinks, parties for Christmas, New Year, or some other vague holiday-adjacent cause for celebration. And if the theme this issue didn’t clue you in enough, we here at Oracle Time like a good party. Sure, the social aspect’s nice, but for us it’s a chance to dust off our dinner jackets, re-learn how to tie a bow tie and look our very, very best. It has to be said though that there’s one element of our favourite party ensembles that we often neglect, and while we’d be the first to say we don’t judge people by their shoes… that’s not always true.

So, rather than simply strapping on our old faithful black shoes and hoping for the best, we’ve delved into precisely what party-worthy shoes are available this season from some of the most important brands in men’s footwear.

Footloose

The smart shoes to invest in this party season

Oliver Sweeney Luisetto Shoe

> > While the tactile grained leather of this single monk strap shoe is elegant in the extreme, it’s a pair that’s actually built for comfort. The deerskin is incredibly soft, and rather than a stiff board inside, Oliver Sweeney has used a softer leather sock. It means that the entire shoe is deceptively flexible and more than comfortable enough to keep you on the dancefloor all night. The fact that its buckle makes it more interesting than your standard Oxford is the icing on this particular festive footwear cake. £349, oliversweeney.com

Smart enough to wear with an evening suit and practical enough to be worn on an icy evening?

That of course means a Chelsea boot – and the Hamilton from Crockett & Jones has a serious pedigree there. Celebrating 60 years of James Bond, the Hamilton is actually a style taken wholesale from the shoemaker’s 1962 catalogue. It says a lot that it’s just as appealing today, with traditional straight cut elastics and flexible shoulder insoles for comfort, and a classic round toe for that 007-worthy classicism. Keep them in black to keep things formal and you have a pair that’ll last you a good 60 years or so. £895, crockettandjones.com

Crockett & Jones Hamilton Chelsea Boot > >

“ More than comfortable enough to keep you on the dancefloor all night

Joseph Cheaney & Sons Spitfire II Derby Shoe

> > A more militaristic take on the classic, open-laced Derby, the Spitfire II is based on an archival design from pilots’ shoes of World War II. It’s basically a formal shoe with a more practical, industrial feel and a watertight construction that’ll have you singin’ in the rain, especially with the chunky sole. The Kudu leather is taken from the African antelope and as each is hunted naturally, you may well find scars and scratches, lending to its more weather-worn look. With its high pitch angle, the Spitfire II is also an incredibly comfortable shape, and even if it’s not as formal as other Derbies, you can wear it with anything – up to and including a military uniform. £375, cheaney.co.uk

Thom Browne Harris Tweed Uniform Shoe

> >

Sometimes you just want to be the centre of attention and for you, there’s this eyecatching take on a classic silhouette from New York label Thom Browne. The Italianmade pair uses the kind of Herringbone Harris tweed you’ve probably got hung up in your wardrobe somewhere, in this instance in a light grey. Practical? The uppers are made from 100% wool with a calf leather lining, so not entirely. That doesn’t stop them being one of the coolest pairs of party-ready shoes around. The Manhattan party scene won’t see these coming.

£640, thombrowne.com

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The Kudu leather is taken from the African antelope and each is hunted naturally

MYRQVIST

Ängsö Black Suede Shoe

> > Forget ‘the usual’, this pair of loafers from Scandi-slanted, Portuguese-made shoemaker MYRQVIST is more distinct than your old penny loafers could hope to be. Each shoe is dominated by the large fringe tongue for a flash of flamboyance, complete with a contrasting single monk strap in different grained leather and a bright silver buckle. The Charles F. Stead suede is water repellent for practicality, and while the soles are relatively stiff, they’re Goodyear welted, meaning that these will last more than long enough to become a core part of your new signature look.

£239, myrqvist.co.uk

> >

A fine leather loafer with the shape and comfort of a slipper (Edward Green’s own Albert slipper to be exact), this sleek, svelte shoe is as minimal as you can get, letting the supple veg-tanned Arno calfskin do the talking. Its matte finish is understated and more contemporary than most slipper-adjacent footwear and makes for a pair that you can wear as confidently with a business suit as a smoking jacket. Just make sure you wear some statement socks to go with them. It’s party season, after all.

£825, edwardgreen.com

Edward Green Charles Loafer

“ Let the supple veg-tanned Arno calfskin do the talking

Colours are great; suede is great. But for that classic eveningwear, dinner jacket look, a high-shine pair of black shoes is a go-to – and the bookbinder leather on this pair from Grenson will look phenomenally sharp in low light. Despite the formal look of the high shine, the leather’s easy to look after, and the double monk buckles make a solid point of difference (and eye-catching flash of silver) when compared to your standard patent leather lace-ups. With a flash of red on the sole to match the leather lining, the Hanbury is a classic evening shoe any man can pull off. £445, grenson.com

George Cleverly Melvin > >

If you’re going to opt for something a classic as a plain black Oxford, you may as well go with one of the most important names in British shoemaking: George Cleverly. The shoemaker’s best known for their intense bespoke experience, but their ready-to-wear offers all the same quality just without all the fittings and extra time for manufacturing. In this instance that means a wholecut shoe with an elegant silhouette, matching black Goodyear welted soles, and just a touch of broguing on the toe. These are a tried-andtrue classic – and for good reason.

£575, georgecleverley.com

Grenson Hanbury Double Monk Shoe > >

“

Their ready-to-wear offers all the same quality just without all the fittings

Gucci Jordaan Loafer

> The horsebit loafer is a classic design and Gucci is its originator – so if you’re thinking about that particular breed of shoe, you may as well go to the source. This particular pair however are anything but the norm. They may still have the gold-toned emblematic hardware, but the dark brown suede with Gucci’s Square G across it is a different look entirely. They’re not for the faint-hearted but their eye-catching look – complete with contrasting plain brown leather – is incredibly attractive. As are you when you wear them. We assume. £645, gucci.com

>

Herring Markham Two-Tone Oxford Shoe

> >

A classic style done in a decidedly modern way, Herring has taken the stalwart men’s classic and draped them in burgundy calf leather.

That leather is hand-finished individually by the same Portuguese factory as Carlos Santos, meaning the two-toned, fume shading will never look exactly the same from shoe to shoe. Paired with a proprietary blue sole and a chiselled toe, the Markham has all the features you’d expect from a pair of bespoke formal shoes for a far more accessible price. They’re not cheap; far from it, but for a pair this good looking they’re less than you might expect.

£360, herringshoes.co.uk

“

Their eye-catching look is incredibly attractive. As are you when you wear them. We assume

Berluti Alessandro Demesure Scritto Leather Oxford

> > Quality Italian shoes don’t come more high-quality or Italian than Berluti. This pair of dark, charcoal brown leather Oxfords come in the iconic label’s signature Scritto leather, embossed with what looks like Renaissance-style lettering. Paired with a lustrous patina, the Alessandro balances a classical, pared-back silhouette with all the hallmarks of a truly luxurious shoe. Pair with a bespoke evening suit with a svelte Italian cut for a look worthy of the Milanese fashion elite. £1,740, berluti.com

Vivvant Oliver Blue Oxford Shoe

> >

What’s life without a splash of colour?

The beautiful blue of this pair from London-based Vivvant is an absolutely stunning colour, dark enough to be considered formal, but more than a few well-heeled steps above your usual black pair. Made in Florence with all the Italian craftsmanship that entails – including a hand patina process that means each shoe is unique – the Oliver’s a more confident twist on a menswear classic. It’s obvious why Vivvant would want to sign it off with their signature triple V stitches on the back.

£285, vivvant.co.uk

Dark enough to be considered formal, but more than a few wellheeled steps above your usual black pair

Photography by FRASER VINCENT Styling by JESSICA PUNTER

PARTY TIME

As the season of goodwill approaches, so does the season of Christmas parties. Filled with beige canapes, chestnuts roasting on an open fire, and novelty jumpers galore, Christmas spirit will be overflowing, but whereas that perfect present might once again be out of reach, the perfect suit certainly isn’t. And while clothes don’t necessarily make the man, they can make them the sharpest at the soiree.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5905R-001, £59,050, patek.com

Connolly cream doublebreasted jacket made to order, connollyengland.com

Mr P. merino roll neck sweater £140, mrporter.com

Kingsman black wool tuxedo trousers £395, mrporter.com

Budd black knitted silk dress scarf £195, buddshirts.co.uk

Harry’s black leather boots £625, harrysoflondon.com

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Bucherer Blue, £109,000, bucherer.com

Edited by SAM KESSLER

SEVENLAYER IMPEDANCE SMOCK

Inspired by the demanding needs of the military, 7L’s fifth layer of warmth battles the elements with ease and goes with any off-duty look

> > The last few weeks have shown the cold is here with a vengeance. Long gone are the heady days of blazing summer heat and now we’re back on track for a frigid winter that your old overcoat and scarf combo simply isn’t ready for.

Sevenlayer (or 7L for the sake of brevity) on the other hand is prepared for anything. Inspired by the demanding needs of the

military and their Generation III Extended Cold Weather Clothing System, the 7L concept is one designed to keep you warm whether you’re on the streets of London or clinging to the North Face of Everest.

Essentially, the system builds layer upon layer with different characteristics, from thermal tees all the way up to full down coats, to a total of, you guessed

it, seven different layers. Now, here in the UK it’s unlikely you’ll ever really need all seven, but the first clutch will definitely be appreciated when the ice cometh.

The Impedance Smock sits on layer five, which means its designed to stop the chill from wind. It’s made from organic ripstop cotton with a water repellent and emerised finish, balancing durability with comfort. It’s lined with a breathable polymesh and offers taped seams for additional help battling the elements.

On paper, it has everything you need from a windproof layer. In reality, it combines those tactical charms with a cool, military look in khaki, making for a casual, everyday staple that will go with – and over – pretty much any off-duty look. Think of it like your old chore jacket on military issue steroids, stylish and practical in equal measure. £284, sevenlayer.com

DENIS O’REGAN

denis o’regan

Words: JOSH

Denis O’Regan admits that his first motivation for going on tour was not a pure one. “I was,” he concedes, “a young man and always on the hunt, so it’s useful to be with, say, Duran Duran and 20,000 screaming girls,” he smiles. “The girls just appearing out of nowhere, all the fainting, all that having to sneak out through underground carparks, it was fascinating, especially as I had the luxury of being able to walk away, while the band couldn’t. But as I got older it became more about getting those special shots.”

Nor was it just with Duran Duran that O’Regan got to live the rock star life tangentially. Considered the world’s pre-eminent rock performance photographer - known for both his reportage of spectacular live shows and intimate off-stage shots - O’Regan also

toured with David Bowie and The Rolling Stones, Kiss, Queen, The Who, among many others. He was the official photographer for Live Aid. He was the one recording what, looking back of course, were historic moments: “You imagine these people hang out together all the time,” says O’Regan, but, for example, he was there with his camera the only time David Bowie and Michael Jackson ever met.

“Sad to say that I think my three main passions have always been music, travel, and only then photography,” chuckles O’Regan, who turns 69 later this year (“the same age that Bowie died,” he notes, ominously). He sees this occasion marked by a 69-day exhibition of his works at London’s West Contemporary gallery, complete with a special edition of prints to raise money for children’s charities and, out next year, the publication of a new monograph.

It was music that fired him up as a youth, photography that gave him up-close access, with punk’s DIY aesthetic opening the door normally closed to all but accredited, fat portfoliowielding photographers. “I was watching one gig and asked a photographer from the NME to borrow a flash, and he basically told me that he didn’t like ‘all this stuff’ and to send my pictures in to the music paper instead,” O’Regan recalls of his lucky break. It turned out that the photographer happened to live with Thin Lizzy’s Phil Lynnot too. O’Regan bluntly asked if he could come on tour with the band. Lynnot agreed. And so O’Regan got to travel.

Life on the road didn’t suit everybody: Freddie Mercury would tell O’Regan how much he hated it. O’Regan concedes that it sometimes felt like a hedonistic Groundhog Day, with the same hotels, the routines - “everyone always absolutely hyper after a show, so going to sleep was just impossible and since restaurants were closed all you could do was party,” he recalls. But then again “you’re in five star hotels with your own floor, there’s the police escorts, women everywhere…”

Dealing with the artists could be a delicate operation at times too. They, rightly, would have to suss him out: O’Regan once spent a long distance

Celebrating his 69th birthday with a 69-day exhibition of his photography at London’s West Contemporary gallery to raise money for children’s charities, O’Regan made a name for himself capturing iconic shots of David Bowie (below), The Rolling Stones, Kiss, Queen (Freddie Mercury, left), and The Who

“Sad to say that I think my three main passions have always been music, travel, and only then photography”

Citing travel and music as his first two loves, O’Regan’s chance to photograph Bob Marley (left) and the Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards (right) resulted in some iconic slices of life on the road, but the relationship between photographer and star wasn’t always as perfect

Given his first opportunity to go on tour by Thin Lizzy, O’Regan toured with Queen’s Freddie Mercury (left), who confided in him how much he hated life on the road, while O’Regan also captured the Rolling Stones at their most extravagant (below) and intimate

Documenting the change from the 70s down-anddirty rock culture of “drugs and wild orgies” to the 80s business-minded era, O’Regan’s shots of Bowie and Jagger (left) and Freddie Mercury (below) capture a moment in rock ‘n’ roll that has since been swamped by the digital information age

flight sat next to Mick Jagger, for example, with the star continuously rattling on about his ex-wife, and his house in Mustique. As O’Regan explains, such meetings, he later realised, were in effect auditions.

“They were trying to work out if they could put up with me for months on end, because the thing about these tours is that [as photographer] you have to be trusted and, maybe more importantly, you have to fit in and get on with people,” explains O’Regan. “You can’t constantly be going ‘Mick, Mick, Mick, over here, Mick!’ because it drives them insane.

“Sure, being around these artists all the time is intimate. You’re there waiting for Bowie to sit in an interesting way, or tip his hat this way or that. Or for those moments when you’re in Berlin and he suggests you both go and knock on the door of his old apartment - afterwards David noted that the owner took our unexpected visit pretty well,” O’Regan laughs. “But it all makes for a pretty strange kind of relationship.

“Then there is the real kindergarten stuff,” he adds. “There’s a lot of rivalry. So many levels - with even the backing band members getting wound up by my hanging out with the star, travelling in

their limo, and so on. And then there are all the affairs, the cliques that develop, those who really want to party and those that don’t. It’s a microcosm of society. It can be very intense. By the end you feel like you’ve been away for five years when you’ve only been away for one.”

It’s also in retrospect that O’Regan has realised his good fortune in being there to document what, he suggests, was a seismic shift from the 70s down-anddirty rock culture of “drugs and wild orgies” to the 80s business-minded era of “media, lawyers and sponsorship, when artists had contracts and had to turn up, when tours became these gigantic money-making machines,” as he puts it. And also, he argues more controversially, to document the golden era of rock and pop stardom.

“Many of the artists I shot were pop stars then and now they’re cultural icons. You see how these acts make a transition from superficial pop star, as many people see them, to something much more profound, especially when they die,” O’Regan argues. “And I think there’s a sense now that there will never be another David Bowie or Freddie Mercury. They got there first and defined the form, but they also went beyond the norm. The likes of Coldplay and Adele are huge, of course, but the likes of Instagram has killed the mystique. There’s too much information. The world has shrunk. I think maybe we’re at the end of an era.”

But the rock ’n’ roll spirit still lives on in him. David Bowie, O’Regan remembers, once told him that he had rock ’n’ roll in his blood. O’Regan refuted the idea because, he says, he thought it sounded shallow of him to admit as much. Now he realises how Bowie had him down in that one comment.

“Many of the artists I shot were pop stars then and now they’re cultural icons”

Despite being one of the most prominent British watchmakers around right now, Fears hasn’t exactly broken the mould over the past few years. They’ve reimagined the Brunswick more times that I can count at this point – and by reimagine, I mean thrown on a new dial or metal. That’s not a bad thing of course; that particular Bristolian blueprint is a modern classic, but it’s about time we saw something new to take Fears out of their 1930s safe space.

The Brunswick 40 is that new thing. Sort of.

As the name suggests, the Brunswick 40 is an upsized version of the classic cushion cased timepiece – a whole 2mm larger, in fact. That doesn’t sound like much on paper, but the smaller the watch the bigger an impact a single millimetre makes and the change, at least on the wrist, is a noticeable one. It’s not just a touch bigger either; a few tweaks to the overall proportions make it a fair bit sportier than its elegant predecessor.

‘A fair bit’ doesn’t mean it’s actually sporty of course. The Brunswick 40 still isn’t an everyday beater as much as a slightly less dressy take on the formula; more 70s sports luxe than 30s dress. In fact, while I wouldn’t call this Fears’ answer to the Royal Oak or anything as gauche as that, the new watches do have that same work-and-play vibe.

Aesthetically, that’s hammered home by the mix of brushed and polished surfaces, with the different finishes subtly emphasising the new proportions. Practically, it’s because it now has a 100m water resistance. I’m not sure why any modern watch has less than that these days, so it’s reassuring that the Brunswick can take a few splashes (dare I say, a shower?) now.

Now let’s talk about that dial. The Brunswick 40 comes in three variations, the first two of which are pretty familiar: opaline silver with black numerals and subtly guilloche Fears blue with silver. They’re par for the course, other than the pipette hands that were previously on the full platinum model. The Flamingo Pink on the other hand… that’s new. And awesome.

It’s what I like to think of as office shirt pink, a bit more formal than floral, dusky pink a la Oris, or something a bit brighter and more punk. It works perfectly on the Brunswick, and while it’s not quite as fun as some of the Recliffes of yore (i.e. bumblebee yellow and black) it’s certainly new territory for the model. At least, outside of the bright purple limited edition.

Perhaps most importantly for the Brunswick as a collection though – even more than the new size and trio of dials – is the bracelet. These are the first of Fears’ flagship to come on a bracelet, which in typical fashion for the brand, is bespoke. Because the exhausting attention to detail across watch, branding, and even packaging just isn’t enough.

The five-link stainless steel number is almost, if not fully, integrated, again harking back to that 70s vibe. In line with

The Brunswick 40 still isn’t an everyday beater as much as a slightly less dressy take on the formula; more 70s sports luxe than 30s dress

the case, the links are alternately brushed and polished, and slightly curved to help it sit better against the wrist. Obviously by this point, it also has a custom clasp complete with ‘Bristol Flower’.

It’s a damn lovely bracelet, but I’m still in two minds as to whether it works for the Brunswick. Granted I’m a little biased as I always prefer a strap, but the distinctly modern sports luxe metal feels a touch at odds with the overtly vintage oversized crown. Some collectors will love that contrast; I’m not sold on it. Although it has to be said, it’s an incredibly comfortable bracelet, which for a sportier take on the Brunswick is hard to knock. And hey, if you did it would survive better than the usual delicate leather.

The Brunswick 40 isn’t going to set the world alight, but it doesn’t need to. All it needs to do is breathe new life into what’s become one of the signature collections in British watchmaking, and that it does with aplomb. Would I personally buy it instead of the classic Brunswick? That’s a hesitant yes from me – but only in the pink. I really, really like the pink.

Now to harass Fears to release it in yellow and black. Wish me luck.

£3,750, fearswatches.com

Generally, if I were to say a cushion cased British watch with a funky coloured dial, there wouldn’t be too many options that come to mind. Perhaps only really something like the Duckworth Prestex Verimatic. But just like an equally British icon in the forever late big red bus, you wait for ages and two come along at once. We’ve already gone over the latest from Fears, which has become entirely synonymous with cushion cases; now it’s the turn of the colour-centric design maestros at Farer.

Now, this isn’t Farer’s first cushion case; that would be the Stanhope II which forms the rough blueprint for this particular capsule collection. That means a multi-layered case that falls somewhere between classic cushion and tonneau. The overall shape feels closer to tonneau, but the bezel is cushion, landing somewhere in the no-man’s land of sporty elegance. It’s a tricky space to occupy, but the new trio of watches walks the line more confidently than Johnny Cash.

The reason I’ve not named the watches yet is because, in typical Farer fashion, each of the three has a different name. Why? You’d have to ask the brand yourself, but it’s something they insist on. The three pieces here are the Lethbridge in silver and blue, the Durham in two-tone copper salmon and anthracite, and the tea-green Mansfield we have here.

The Lethbridge is classical, and while lovely, not as fun as I’ve come to expect from Farer. They’ve set their own bar a bit high. The Durham is odd, but as I’ve not seen it in real life (and I’ve been assured it’s miles better in the metal) I won’t comment too much. The Mansfield however is absolutely superb.

Not only is the light green – more matcha tea than mint, not quite saturated and bright enough for lime – absolutely gorgeous, but it has my preferred hour demarcations with Arabic numerals interspersed with baton indexes; the silver and salmon using all Arabic and Roman numerals respectively. The Mansfield is just that bit sportier, and I love the contrasting ring of silver around the small seconds. Both the hour markings and that contrast turn what could be a strait-laced, classical looking watch into something altogether more Farer.

At 38.5mm wide with short, curved lugs, the Mansfield’s fully polished case sits perfectly on the wrist, relatively small and elegant, in a cool, distinctly modern way. The tonneau elements make it feel a touch bigger than most cushion cases, but not so different that you can’t imagine how it wears. That’s all to say, I really didn’t want to take it off.

Inside is the Sellita SW216-1, an upgrade from the ETA number used in the previous Stanhope II. It’s a manual wind with a 45-hour power reserve and is definitely worth a glance through the sapphire caseback. Manual wind movements are better looking anyway without that pesky rotor getting in the way, but this particular calibre has been wonderfully decorated with interlocking logos on the bridge and eyecatching blued screws. It’s also been mechanically improved (slightly) by removing the extra crown position normally used for setting the date. It’s a small touch, but one that purists (read obsessives) like me appreciate.

Honestly, this is what I want out of a modern, cushion cased watch. Don’t get me wrong, I own a classic white Brunswick and adore it; I also own the orange Duckworth Prestex (I have a type) and love that too, the former for more formal occasions, the latter as a bit of a beater. For me, the Mansfield lands perfectly between the two and, with Farer’s typical aesthetic quirks and an improved movement, is a very tempting prospect to fill the gap between them.

£895, farer.com

The hour markings and that contrast turn what could be a strait-laced, classical looking watch into something altogether more Farer

A few issues back I wrote a short piece on the history of Enicar, the adventure watchmaker that really, really shouldn’t have disappeared. And before you say anything, the Enicar of today is not the same at all, even if they do try to play off the name. It’s like comparing 2015’s Point Break to the 90s classic.

At the time I thought the story would end there with a disappointing climax I’m not going to search for a comparison with. Fortunately for Enicar fans – and indeed anyone that loves a decent retro diver – it does not. While the mothership may remain a cheap fashion watch brand, their iconic Sherpa line is now doing its own thing.

Essentially, Enicar fan Marti Klocke was as frustrated as me at the current state of the brand. So, he asked them directly if he could relaunch the Sherpa – and didn’t hear back. Fortunately, through a loophole (read lapse) in trademarking, he was able to pick up the Sherpa name and launch his debut pair of timepieces.

Those are the OPS and Ultradive, a pair of gloriously overengineered Super Compressor divers. Sure, they’re not the Everest toppers Enicar made their name with, but they’re still a pair of 60s references that fans of the vintage brand will recognise.

Mechanically, the two are identical, but visually they’re pretty distinct. The Ultradive has a more restrained approach, in steel with a minimal, white inner diving bezel and comparatively svelte markers. Comparative, that is, to the OPS, which has a much more technical, militaristic look to it, and not just for the blacked-out case. The indexes are chunkier, the orange second hand bolder and pointier, and the inner diving bezel sub-divided into every minute for easier legibility on the fly. Of the two, my money’s on the OPS. There are plenty of retro compressor-style watches out there and very few that are this serious. It’s a nice change of pace.

Regardless of the aesthetics though, both the OPS and the Ultradive are constructed identically. The dual crowns are protected by a gloriously overcompensating crown guard for a distinctive asymmetrical silhouette. It doesn’t get in the way of operation though. What might give you pause on the other hand is that the crowns aren’t screwed down. Instead, they use the same technology as the compressor caseback, where an increase in water pressure results in a tighter fit (something that not all so-called ‘super compressors’ these days use). It’s a novel approach, but it makes a lot of sense and makes for much smoother operation of the watch.

On the wrist it feels great. It’s 40mm across (though wears larger with that crown guard) and it’s thin for a diver at 13.5mm. It looks and feels like it should have more than 200m water resistance, so don’t be tempted to take it scuba diving, but otherwise it suits most occasions. That said, the pared-back Ultradive is perhaps a bit more wearable in everyday life.

Inside is a movement Sherpa has dubbed the Mantramatic. In keeping with Buddhist traditions (that Klocke himself ascribes to) and paying tribute to the actual Sherpa people, some of the calibre’s wheels have been laser-engraved with the same kind of mantras you’ll find on Tibetan prayer wheels. This means that as the watch works it’s actively sending out

There are plenty of retro compressor-style watches out there and very few that are this serious. It’s a nice change of pace

good vibes. Does that matter to me personally? Well, it’s a nice thought but not particularly, though that doesn’t stop it theoretically working and the idea is incredibly cool.

Finishing aside, the movement’s a standard SW200-1, so nothing to write home about and not quite the level I’d expect for this price range. That 38-hours of power reserve is looking sparser and sparser as the years go by.

Fitted to a tropic style strap for that final flourish of 60s diving style, the new Sherpa divers, and particularly the OPS, are a phenomenal return to form for a name that could have so easily (wilfully, given modern Enicar) slipped into obscurity. I do think the price is steep for a SW200-1-equipped watch, but there’s enough here that it’s not hard to justify.

And hey, if these do well – and they should – it opens the door to a host of other revived Sherpa models. That alone is worth getting excited about.

OPS €5,800, Ultradive €5,900 (approx. £5,150), sherpawatches.com

Pre-90s, Cognac was sipped almost exclusively by stuffy old men in equally stuffy clubs, usually sitting in a wellstuffed chair. The old drink of kings and emperors had fallen from favour to the back shelves of liquor cabinets, a symbol of a bygone era of old-world luxury. Then the rap world picked it up.

In the words of 2Pac, “They wanna know who’s my role model, it’s in a brown bottle (You know our motherfuckin motto) Hennessy”.

Cognac was essentially short hand for the classical luxury that success got you, the kind that came with hypercars, mansions, and diamond-encrusted watches. Sure, it was classically the

drink of royalty, but post-90s it also became the drink of those who would be king.

The first brand to break into hip-hop was Remy Martin thanks to Jay-Z “sipping Remy on the rocks” in 1991’s Can’t Knock the Hustle, but he’s far from the only one. Along with many a Henny reference (see above), Courvoisier had a title role in Busta Rhymes’ 2001 banger Pass the Courvoisier II, with P. Diddy and Pharrell (a man who, incidentally, became an ambassador for Louis XIII, Remy Martin’s ultimate expression). The song alone is responsible for a 30% boost in Courvoisier sales.

Words by Sam Kessler

IN THE PARTY SPIRIT

How Cognac went for dusty drink of the social elite to the spirit of the discerning modern drinker

This revival through hip-hop all but saved the Cognac region, which before then had been going through serious problems. However, in the past few years the grape brandy has been trying ways of bringing in audiences that don’t know crunk from trap.

Part of that has been the global premiumisation of spirits; clubbers and partygoers want something with a bit more oomph than a litre of house vodka, particularly in emerging or recently emerged markets (read China) where the French heritage of cognac goes down as smoothly as the drink. Nothing quite says success like busting out a bottle of XO.

Here though, where for many of us cognac is still a bit traditional, makers have been mixing things up by hitting

The revival through hip-hop all but saved the Cognac region, which before then had been going through serious problems. However, in the past few years the grape brandy has been trying ways of bringing in audiences that don’t know crunk from trap

With cognac makers today abandoning the strict confines of what officially counts as a cognac and drinkers experimenting more with cognac in a range of cocktails, the classic French spirit has been able to reach the lips of whole new – and non-dusty – audience

the cocktail scene hard. Strong, classic cocktails have been coming back in a big way and that means plenty of cognac, which was popular back in the 1920s when most of these drinks were being mixed for the first times.

The sidecar is by far the most famous and Remy Martin for one has made it their solemn duty to become synonymous with the drink.

Drinkers are also experimenting more, substituting the usual suspects for other spirits, and the rich sweetness of cognac makes for a much more interesting twist on, say, an old fashioned or a mint julep. Seriously, a cognac old fashioned is incredibly underrated.

It’s not just drinkers that are

experimenting though. Until relatively recently, cognac makers were hesitant to stray beyond the pretty strict confines of what officially counts as a cognac – made in the titular region from three grapes, predominantly Ugni Blanc – and kept to traditional methods. Now though, with drinkers thirstier than ever for new slants on their favourite spirits, things are changing.

Courvoisier, for example, has released a cognac aged in Japanese mizunara oak, a wood usually only used in predominantly Suntory-adjacent whisky. It’s a relatively small change (the grande champagne cognac is only part aged in the wood), but it’s still a shift that cognac needs to move forwards. Then

there’s Remy Martin’s latest expression, which may be the zeitgeistiest spirit around: an AI-articulated collaboration with Usher devoted to cocktails.

If there’s one cognac that epitomises just how far cognac has come, it’s the Usher x Rémy Martin 1738 and its co-branded cocktail, the Rémy Roller (cognac, ginger ale and angostura bitters). It’s a world away from the dusty bottles of the pre-90s era. It does more than lean on its classical French heritage and embraces music, colour, and cocktails. And AI, whatever that actually means in this case. Could this be cognac’s final form? If someone cracks it open on your next night out, quite possibly.

Embracing music, colour, and cocktails the Usher x Rémy Martin 1738 (below) and its co-branded cocktail, the Rémy Roller (cognac, ginger ale and angostura bitters) leans on its classical French heritage, but in a truly 21st century manner

House of Dragon may have finished airing but to steal a phrase from Game of Thrones, Winter is Coming. And what that means for London’s dining scene is a shift in focus towards warming dishes and cosy comfort. Here’s a look at some of the top London restaurants whose seasonal tasting menus will be taking a wintery turn.

When it comes to adapting to the seasons, Pidgin is one step ahead of everyone else. Their menu doesn’t just change with the season, it changes every single week. That means in just six years they have served over 1,000 dishes where many tasting menus might have seen fewer than 100.

Somewhat ironically, that means it’s impossible to give a rundown of Pidgin’s winter menu because by the time you’re reading this, it will have changed four or five times. However, examples include dishes like goat shami kebab, and monkfish. pidginlondon.com

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

PIDGIN

52 Wilton Way, Hackney, E8

RESTAURANT STORY

199 Tooley Street, Southwark, SE1 2JX

Similar to Pidgin, you never quite know what you’re going to get at Restaurant Story. That’s because they purposely hide the menu from you, allowing you to experience the meal as intended through the story telling and drama of the food itself.

What is certain is that the menu will contain a mixture of seasonal dishes and innovative takes on classics like Scottish lobster and even a beef candle. The menu is designed to tell the evolving story of British cuisine. You’ll notice that the concept of stories keeps coming up, that’s somewhat the point with even the décor themed around storybooks.

Book now at restaurantstory.co.uk

FROG

34-35 Southampton St, Covent Garden, WC2E 7HG

With a name like Frog, you might expect Adam Handling’s Michelin star to focus on French cuisine, however it’s British through and through. Herdwick lamb, English wagyu and Baron Bigod cheese are all stars of their seasonally changing tasting menu.

After your meal you can head downstairs to Eve, a luxurious cocktail bar serving a diverse range of drinks. The warm buzz of good company and creative cocktails is sure to stave off the winter cold.

Book now at frogbyadamhandling.com

CORE BY CLARE SMYTH

92 Kensington Park Road, Notting Hill, W11 2PN

If you judge a restaurant by accolades alone, Core by Clare Smyth is a serious contender for being one of the top venues in London. Three Michelin stars in 2021, five AA Rosettes and head chef, Clare Smyth, voted the Best Female Chef by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The Core Seasons tasting menu focuses on seasonal British produce with dishes such as crispy veal sweatbread and Highland wagyu. If you’re looking to make an event of it, they also offer a Chef’s Table experience for up to ten guests.

Book now at corebyclaresmyth.com

The warm buzz of good company and creative cocktails is sure to stave off the winter cold

ROOFTOP

2 Spring Gardens, Trafalgar Square, SW1A 2TS

Ok, yes, I admit that The Rooftop doesn’t technically offer a tasting menu. However, its winter menu of slow cooked brisket, button onion, cabernet cream jus, and cavolo nero deserves to be included. Plus, because we Brits are insane, there’s nothing we like more than sitting outside during the freezing winter nights protected by nothing more than a blanket and heater. Fortunately, the Rooftop delivers on the blankets and more, with astonishing views over Trafalgar Square and beyond that are enough to warm the heart. Find out more at trafalgarstjames.com/the-rooftop

The Autumn Kaiseke menu features dishes like monkfish kombujime, sashimi and grouse hotpot. And of course, for the full experience there’s the paired sake and wine list

UMU 14-16 Bruton Place, Mayfair, W1J 6LX

Umu is a Japanese restaurant the remains stalwartly authentic, purposely avoiding Westernised ideas about food and flavours. It creates a tasting menu that’s pure in its intention and delectable in its execution. The Autumn Kaiseke menu features dishes like monkfish kombujime, sashimi and grouse hotpot. And of course, for the full experience there’s the paired sake and wine list. Alternatively, if you’d prefer the lunch menu there are alternative Japanese classics, such as wagyu. Book now at umurestaurant.com

←

↑ THE FIVE FIELDS

8-9 Blacklands Terrace, Chelsea, SW3 2SP

If there’s one way to ensure a seasonal menu, the answer is to grow the food yourself. And that’s precisely what The Five Fields does thanks to their kitchen garden in Sussex, which has over an acre of land producing fruit, vegetables, honey, and even venison exclusively for the restaurant. Alongside the produce of the kitchen garden, they source lobster, grouse, and more from sustainable local suppliers. The dining room is warmly appointed and the private room is dedicated to cartographer John Rocque, whose Georgian maps mark the location of the restaurant as The Five Fields, giving the restaurant its name.

Find out more at fivefieldsrestaurant.com

Alongside the produce of the kitchen garden, they source lobster, grouse, and more from sustainable local suppliers

↑

LAUNCESTON PLACE

1a Launceston Place, Kensington, W8 5RL

Launceston Place is situated in the heart of Kensington within an 1839 townhouse, where they serve several tasting menus inspired by seasonal British produce with a European flair. For lunch there’s pollock and pork, and for dinner there’s turbot and lamb. Plus, as the festive spirit begins to build, expect the dining room to be draped in a wealth of seasonal decorations. Nothing says cosy winter quite like a well adorned tree and sparkling baubles.

Find out more launcestonplacerestaurant.co.uk

Words by Sam Kessler

THE HISTORICAL HOLLYWOOD HAUNT IN THE HEART OF DUBLIN

Dublin has a lot going for it. Not only is it the historical home of Irish literature – you can walk in the footsteps of James Joyce – but it’s one of the only places in the world you can get a decent pint of Guinness. Yet while the city’s Georgian charms are undeniable, there’s one place in particular that’s carved out its own story in Dublin’s greater saga: the Shelbourne Hotel.

The site of the hotel dates back to the early 1780s, when then-British Prime Minister, William Petty, 2nd Earl of Shelburne, owned a house on it. However, it was in the 1820s when Martin Burke bought three townhouses there and converted them all into a single hotel, using the site’s historic owner for both inspiration and the appearance of pedigree.

Fortunately for guests, it was a pedigree that the hotel more than lived up to. The Shelbourne was the first hotel in Dublin to be lit by gas and thanks to its grand rooms by the mid-1800s it was

The grand Georgian hotel that’s fit for kings, presidents, movie stars, and you… potentially

soon collecting an enviable list of signatures in the hotel guest book –including that of the great William Thackeray, writer of Vanity Fair. He likely got a touch of inspiration from the other guests.

Yet distinguished as it was just decades after opening, it was the Hollywood era that saw the Shelbourne in its ascendency. After all, the stars of the Golden Age demanded only the best; glamour didn’t perpetuate itself. You name them, they stayed there. From Charlie Chaplin to Laurel and Hardy, Clark Gable to John Wayne, Rita Hayworth to Elizabeth Taylor, the great and good of the big screen made the

Shelbourne their own personal slice of grandeur this side of the Atlantic.

John and Jaqueline Kennedy stayed in 1958 and they evidently enjoyed it as they stayed again during an official visit in 1963 as President and First Lady. Apparently, word got around the elite of the elite too, as they were followed by Princess Grace and Prince Rainier of Monaco – one suite, a particular favourite being renamed the Grace Kelly in the Princess’s honour.

So far, so genteel. The same can’t be said of the Horseshoe Bar. Watering hole of writers in search of a glass or five of inspiration, Dublin’s authors and poets staggered their way to the bar, including

the Nodel Prize winning Seamus Heaney. On the musical side, the bar attracted everyone from The Rolling Stones to Pavarotti. The Shelbourne was evidently a patron of the arts, whether it was rock ‘n’ roll or opera.

To this day, the Shelbourne has the same character as ever, grandiose interiors that you can almost see Grace Kelly gliding across, grand staircases fit for a Charlie Chaplin pratfall. Dublin has its charms, that’s in no doubt whatsoever. But even by the Irish city’s standards, the Shelbourne has a personality all its own, inextricably linked with the star power it’s attracted across the years.

theshelbourne.com

The Shelbourne has a personality all its own, inextricably linked with the star power it’s attracted across the years

The likes of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier of Monaco, Charlie Chaplin, John Wayne, and Elizabeth Taylor have all spent the night at The Shelbourne (right), while the Horseshoe Bar (above) has been propped up by Seamus Heaney, The Rolling Stones, and Pavarotti to name just a few

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO: THE PATEK PHILIPPE GOLDEN ELLIPSE

Anticipating a change in watch tastes, Patek Philippe prophetically released the Golden Ellipse in a move that would hint at the Nautilus, but today the ‘divine proportion’ of the dress watch classic is often overlooked

Not all vintage dress watches are created equal. Well, that’s not entirely true. Most have historically been created the same, with svelte round cases and silvered or champagne-coloured dials, the kind that most guys have squirrelled away for when they break out the dinner jacket. In the 1960s however, watch tastes were beginning to change. This was before the quartz crisis upset the entire horological world, but the signs of change were already there, and Patek Philippe were reading the tea leaves.

The beginnings of mass production at this point meant that watches in general were getting cheaper, with the inkling of what we’d today call fashion watch brands offering cheap, but decidedly not cheap-looking timepieces. Mostly though, at least in dress watches, they stuck to that 50s template; round with a silver dial.

Even the tiniest likelihood of being compared to cheaper watch bands didn’t sit well with Patek, at the time under the auspice of Henri Stern, grandfather to current CEO, Thierry. They needed a new watch design that stood apart from the rest, both aesthetically and in terms of construction, and in a move that in hindsight would hint at the Nautilus, they released the Golden Ellipse.

There are two conflicting stories about where the design came from. One is the Golden Ratio, a font of inspiration for everyone from ancient Greek architects to Parmigiani, essentially a mathematical formula for beauty. It definitely fits. The gorgeous curve of the Golden Ellipse is satisfyingly beautiful and matches the 1/1.6181 ratio the ‘divine proportion’ is mathematically expressed as. It’s definitely the most likely of the two theories. However, I prefer the other, that it was taken from an airplane window’s view of an American highway, if only because it ties nicely into the porthole shape of the Nautilus a few years later.

Either way, the case was big step for Patek Philippe, which drew up

the design in-house and sent the specs to Ateliers Réunis, a casemaker that they would eventually buy and whose original manufacturer would become the modern-day Patek Philippe museum. Needless to say that they knocked the elliptical case out of the park when the watch was released in 1968.

Impressive as the case was however, it was just one part of the original Ellipse’s success. What might at first look like a standard sunray blue dial is far from it. This being Patek’s take on modern luxury, the dial was actually made from blue gold. Today blue is a rarity; then it was unheard of.

You get blue gold by plating solid gold with a mix of cobalt and 24K gold, which is easier said than done. You can’t just use an electric bath like gilding a movement. Instead Patek Philippe had to use a cutting-edge technique of vacuum plating. The result was worth it. With simple hour markers, the dial spoke for itself with the surety of a confident orator.

The watch was an instant success, in part because it was so different from what had come before, in part because this was Patek Philippe, watchmaker to the elite. There was a cache in owning a Patek (like there is today) and a slim, elegant dress piece this eye-catching was always going to be a sure-fire winner. It was popular enough in fact that by the 70s there were around 65 different versions of the Ellipse on the market, with gem-set bezels and different colours embellishing on the blueprint.

These days the Ellipse tends to be a bit overlooked. It’s coming back into prominence a little with the resurgence in watchmaking of all things 70s, but most modern buyers still gravitate towards the myriad Calatrava models instead. Perhaps they’re more confident with the standard circular shape, perhaps its simply that the Calatrava is more of a core part of Patek Philippe. It could be something as simple as the small, 34.5mm diameter. Whatever the reason, it makes the Ellipse a more unusual pick of dress watch and one that you can get for (compared to other Patek models) a decent price.

Vintage models will set you back anywhere between £5,000 and £10,000 depending on condition and the amount of gold involved (gold bracelets are obviously at the upper end), which for a model with this level of heritage from arguably the most prestigious watchmaker around seems insane.

With party season here the dress watches are out, and if you’re looking for the perfect finishing touch to your midnight blue dinner jacket, then there’s none better than this. Or if you just want a Patek at a steal.

Often in the shadow of the myriad Calatrava models, the Golden Ellipse dress watch is riding the resurgence in all things 70s, with a 70s price tag to match

The watch was an instant success, in part because it was so different from what had come before, in part because this was Patek Philippe, watchmaker to the elite

FOCUS

THE FAST-PACED NEW FACE OF RAYMOND WEIL

Inspired by a bike inspired by watchmaking, the retro-flavoured Freelancer Chronograph 7780 might just be the accessible brand’s best yet

Given they’ve been going since the mid-1970s, making the most of half the watch industry going under during the quartz crisis, Raymond Weil has a solid number of watch collections. Tango, Toccata, Parsifal, their musical range is pretty broad. Broader than you might expect, given that the modern Raymond Weil is defined by one collection above all: the Freelancer.

Originally developed in the mid-2000s, the Freelancer is the core of what Raymond Weil do. As a collection it’s not as recent as the Maestro, but it’s remained the sporty flagship; one of the most diverse, forward-thinking collections on offer (and indeed among any brand in Raymond Weil’s ever-accessible price range).

That’s in good part thanks to the more casual, everyday nature of a sports watch, but also thanks to the Freelancer’s versatility and, with it, Raymond Weil’s own willingness to funnel creativity into the collection – whether that’s their own or someone else’s, even if that creativity comes on two wheels.

The Swiss might not be particularly known for daredevil speedsters, but Meister Engineering is determined to prove otherwise with their custombuilt bikes. They customise existing bikes, build them from scratch, or in the case of their relationship with Raymond Weil, make one hell of a promotional machine. The bike was covered in watchy details like gradiated paintwork, rose gold lettering, and even a tachymeter and pulsometer scale on the fuel cap.

Yet while the relationships started simply with Meister Engineering building a bike for Raymond Weil to use as an oversized prop, now it’s become a two-way street with the Freelancer Chronograph Bi-Compax 7780.

This isn’t the first racing Freelancer. There are (at least) four more in the collection. Though this is the first that has a more vintage look. It’s the same size as the previous automatic chronographs at 43.5mm, but now in either solid bronze or gunmetal PVD meant to look like titanium. More importantly though, they’re bicompax instead of tri – two chronograph subdials rather than the more common (and modern) three.

Both the older tri- and new bi-compax watches use the same 5030, so all Raymond Weil has done really is take out the six o’clock subdial and added a date in its place. The aesthetic change however is phenomenal. Paired with new retro mushroom pushers, it’s a surprising transformation for the

Freelancer Chronograph, and one that follows through into the scales.

Like the fuel cap, the new Freelancer shows off two scales. There’s the usual tachymeter on the bezel, a detail that’s become shorthand for ‘racing inspired’ and that lets you measure speed, provided you know the distance travelled. It’s the kind of thing you’ll find yourself using on the Goodwood Hillclimb, but not much elsewhere. The pulsometer on the other hand is a bit more unusual. Nestled on the curved inner bezel, it’s a scale you’d normally only find on vintage doctors’ watches. The concept’s simple: you start the chronograph, count 30 beats of the subject’s heart and stop it again. But the question is, why is it here? Well, if there’s one thing the horsepower of a Meister Engineering bike is likely to do, it’s set your pulse racing. Now you can measure just how competitive it is.

Yes, the link between Meister Engineering’s bike and the Freelancer Chronograph Bi-Compax is tenuous at best; the details Raymond Weil has referenced are ones they put there in the first place, taken from watchmaking, so they don’t really count at ‘automotive inspired’. None of that stops the new piece being a superb retro racer and possibly the coolest Freelancer yet – which, given it is the face of Raymond Weil, shows the brand’s moving quickly in the right direction. Yes it’s a limited edition (of 300 pieces) but we’d be surprised if we don’t see more like this from Raymond Weil. Find out more at raymond-weil.co.uk

Adding a more vintage look to Raymond Weil’s range of four other Freelancers, the aesthetically exciting Freelancer Chronograph BiCompax 7780 is influenced by Meister Engineering’s twowheeled ode to the Swiss watchmaker

CHRONOTECHNA

A musou black sandwich dial is only one reason of many to love the latest from Chronotechna

What makes an exceptional modern diver? It’s a pretty nebulous question and one that likely has as many different answers as there are watch lovers out there. Some collectors want something as big, rugged, and weighty as the scuba gear they plan on pairing it with. Others prefer keeping their feet on dry land and want something a little more svelte and everyday. Both are right in their ways, both have plenty of different watches to choose from, and both will likely fall in love with the Chronotechna SeaQuest Dive.

The SeaQuest Dive is, put simply, one of the coolest divers of 2022. Given we only have scant weeks left of the year, that’s a big deal. Not only is it a serious underwater explorer, with a depth rating of 300m, but it’s stylistically inspired.

If this is the first time you’ve come across the watch (you’re welcome) you might be forgiven for assuming it came from nowhere, but that’s not quite true. Sure, it’s definitely made an impact, but given everything behind it that’s not so much a surprise as it is an inevitability.

First, Chronotechna. The name has a touch of aerospace about it, but the brand itself dates all the way back to 1946 as a Czechoslovakia state-owned watchmaker with a story akin to what happened in Glashutte in Germany. Over the next 30 years they shared expertise with Switzerland, and postCommunist party in 1989, Chronotechna became a private entity. It didn’t last long and closed its doors shortly after.

Flash-forward to 2018 and Chronotechna was co-revived by Harry Guhl, the man that had also co-founded Czapek & Cie. Sure, they’re very different brands but given the success of Czapek, they’re some impressive credentials. They also enlisted Adrian Buchmann, current CEO of Sequent, whose inventive hybrid connected watch (and recent collaboration with Seconde Seconde) has shown a serious flair for off-the-wall horological design.

It’s an almost intimidating pairing, but while the men behind the brand are certainly worth mentioning, it’s Chronotechna’s dials that deserve most of the word count here. That’s because they’re made using Musou black paint.

A lot of hay gets made over Vantablack, but as a material it’s not great. Sure, it’s the blackest substance in the world, but it’s easily damaged, requires an incredible amount of care to handle, and just isn’t particularly suited to anything remotely rugged. Musou black paint on the other hand absorbs 99.4% of light instead of Vantablack’s

99.9%. It’s much more hardwearing, a lot more accessible and, when push comes to shove, good luck telling which is which with the naked eye.

It’s this Musou black that Chronotechna has used on all of their dials, from their initial NanoBlack to their current SeaQuest Dive. It makes perfect sense. What better way of ensuring legibility than contrasting the blackest black with clean, shining white? That’s a difference you’ll be able to see at the bottom of the ocean, let alone in everyday life.

The contrast is emphasised by using a retro sandwich dial, cutting windows out of the otherwise unrelieved black to show the lume behind. Rather than the occasional window or Roman numeral a la vintage divers though, every marker is machined from the dial, with elongated bars for a distinctly modern look. In short, the SeaQuest Dive takes a dial technique that dates to the early days of diving watches and makes it their own. And, dare we say, better?

It doesn’t have the same level of contrast as the white, but we’re mildly obsessed by the blue version of the SeaQuest. It’s a little less harsh on the eyes and even more individual than the standard white version.

Available in either all black, or steel and black and equipped with a – you know it, you love it – Swissmade Sellita SW200-1. Sure, the movement’s nothing we’ve not seen before, but we’re happy to give it a pass if it means the SeaQuest Dive, an incredibly cool, practical diver using the darkest paint on Earth, will set you back just shy of £1,400.

The Chronotechna SeaQuest Dive didn’t come out of nowhere, but it should by rights be everywhere. Find out more at chronotechna.com

Both a serious underwater explorer with a depth rating of 300m and a stylistically inspired watch, the Chronotechna SeaQuest Dive takes a dial technique that dates to the early days of diving watches and makes it their own

ZRC’S 1964 RE-ISSUE AND THE MARINE NATIONALE

With a DNA stretching back to one of the most handsome French Navy watches (which is saying something) the latest ZRC is a retro beauty

The French have always known that form is just as important as function, even in military circles. So, it’s little surprise that over the years the Marine Nationale have worked with the very best watchmakers to create military spec dive watches. The 1950s and 60s were full of dive watch innovations and the French Navy were quick to snap up models like the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner and ZRC Grands Fonds 300. It’s the latter that takes our interest today, following the retro-revival launch of the ZRC 1964 French Navy Re-Issue.

Looking all the way back to the start of the relationship between ZRC and the Marine Nationale, you can see that it was a close one. In 1960, when the navy was considering adopting the Grands Fonds 300, they had some design queries that they brought to the watchmaker. First and foremost among the elements at issue was the positioning of the crown, which was in the normal position at three o’clock.

Considering that practically every dive watch in existence has their crowns at three, you might wonder why the norm was an issue in this instance. Well, the Grands Fonds 300 wasn’t going to be just your run of the mill Navy diver, it had the specialised task of working with the Toulon Mine Clearance Divers. To say that complete dexterity of wrist action with zero obstructions was essential is an understatement. A pronounced crown sitting forwards on the wrist is a serious security and safety risk.

The solution was rapidly found and by 1964 the Grands Fonds 300 was ready for military use. Specifically, ZRC moved the crown to the six o’clock position, which means it no longer protrudes beyond the wrist and is contained within space of the bracelet. Additionally, it was produced with an exclusive technique that uses a single block of steel, making the Grands Fonds 300 the first truly monobloc wristwatch.

In 1970 the design underwent further development making it the chosen watch of the Paris fire service, French water sport athletes, and several forces within the French Navy including the Diving School, Mine Clearance Divers, and Commando Hubert. Primarily the updates centred on the bracelet and lugs, making it impossible to unlock the crown while wearing the watch and consequently protecting it from accidental water damage, and ensuring its 300m water resistance. Jumping forwards a few decades, ZRC has created

the 1964 Navy Re-Issue, a modern take on their classic Grands Fonds 300 that was completely revamped in 2021. It retains everything that made the Grands Fonds 300 a staple of the military for over 30 years, such as the sleek 41.5mm diameter case in nonmagnetic stainless steel with sharply angled sides.

Modern additions include an updated unidirectional rotating bezel that now has a ceramic insert and ECSTM System. ECSTM translates to the slightly less glamorous ‘Easy Clean System’. It might not sound sexy but it protects your watch from water and salt damage by cleaning the inside of the bezel when you rinse it after use. Increasing the longevity of your watch.

It’s a fitting tribute to one of the most intriguing specialist dive watches to have ever been produced. The unique position of the crown combined with the legible dial and good looks make it a worthy rival any other Marine Nationale branded watch on the market.

CHF 3,290 (approx. £2,900) on steel bracelet. Available at zrc1904.com

A modern take on their classic Grands Fonds 300, the ZRC 1964 French Navy Re-Issue was produced with an exclusive technique that uses a single block of steel, making the Grands Fonds 300 the first truly monobloc wristwatch

The Grands Fonds 300 wasn’t going to be just your run of the mill Navy diver, it had the specialised task of working with the Toulon Mine Clearance Divers

edited by: SAM KESSLER

Boldr

Odyssey

While Boldr have dabbled in GMTs in the past, they’ve always been office GMTs, the less prestigious, slightly simpler take on the complication. It’s also the more accessible – though now the tool watch specialist is proving that ‘true’ GMTs too can be incredibly affordable with the Odyssey Freediver GMT. With its chunky diving case and 300m water resistance there’s a lot to love on the practical side; with its rugged good looks, and (in this version) brown and black alternate time zone bezel, the specs are matched by its looks. Wrapping everything up as a sure-fire winner is the price tag of £815. For any ‘true’ GMT that’s impressive. For one like this it’s mind-blowing. boldrsupply.co

Neucarl

Sept Mai New York Edition

Rather than the grey of the concrete jungle, Neucarl’s latest take on their flagship Sept Mai is a tribute to the unsleeping neon of New York City. The dark midnight blue of the segmented dial turns to indigo at the centre, with bright orange-yellow indexes at both the outer edges and the centre. It’s a visually vibrant livery and one that makes best use of the dial’s two-layer construction. Paired with the wonderfully elegant case of the Sept Mai and a retro manual-wind movement, there’s a lot to love here even if you’re an ocean away from the Big Apple.

neucarl.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Swiss manual-wind movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £907, neucarl.com

Jurmo

Sisu Earth

Skeleton watches aren’t for everyone –many of us wear a watch to hide our wrists – but it’s hard not to love a brand that turns the actual skeleton bridges into the main feature of the watch. Enter Jurmo’s Sisu, which uses eye-catching, sky-blue bridges to utterly transform the look of a classic skeleton dial. Just be warned – while the Sisu is well priced for a watch with its level of finishing, that means there’s a lot of demand and wait times are up to four months. Don’t worry though, it’ll be worth the wait.

jurmowatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• ETA 6497 manual-wind movement with 48-hour power reserve

• €2,180 (aaprox. £1,900), jurmowatches.com

Trafford Watch Co Crossroads

Forget the usual Art Deco take on square or rectangular watches; Trafford’s shiny new Crossroads is perfectly retro. Its curved square – almost TV-shaped – case is pure rose-tinted nostalgia, which is more than enough to pique the interest. Beyond that though, the mix of polished and brushed finishing, the curvaceous sapphire crystal, and the sheer attention to detail lavished on the watch turn it from an interesting first look to a very tempting early bird purchase. Early bird because, as is the case with many a cool new microbrand release, the Crossroads is on Kickstarter, meaning you can swoop in and get a solid discount on retail.

traffordwatchco.com

THE SPECS:

• 36 x 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Miyota 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• Early bird $499 (approx. £444), retail $799 (approx. £710), traffordwatchco.com

Lebois & Co

After months of crowd-sourced designs and constant community feedback, Lebois & Co have finally released the finished version of their heritage project – and it was worth the wait. Of the Heritage Chronographs released, the standout for us is the salmon-dialled pulsometer edition, a flawlessly vintage, eye-catching piece with blued steel hands and an equally blue strap, both contrasting wonderfully with the copper colouring. Apparently if you actually ask watch lovers what they want, the result is a watch that we very much want. Go figure.

leboisandco.com

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Lebois & Co. calibre LC-450 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve

• £2,150 – £2,250, leboisandco.com

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JURMO – R0 COPPER CHRONOGRAPH

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HESILI – TIMELESS BLUE

CHARLIE PARIS –CONCORDIA

Charlie Paris’ Concordia is a stylish and accessible diver that oozes 1960s retro diving watch charm. Specifically, the highly legible display with oversize round hour markers is inspired by the types of watches developed around the French Riviera in the 1960s and associated with figures like the French explorer, Jacques Cousteau, which makes sense for a modern French watchmaker like Charlie Paris. Inside, it houses the Soprod calibre P024. €745 (approx. £640), available from charlie-paris.com

Millar Watches –Scuba Dive Watch

Millar Watches’ Scuba Dive Watch is inspired by the classic retro divers that have become symbols of horological greatness. It has a 42mm diameter stainless steel case with 300m water resistance and a black ceramic bezel. The use of high tech ceramic at this level of accessibility is very impressive. Housed inside is the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve, an industry staple used by brands of all sizes. £499, available from millarwatches.com

Hesili is an American watchmaker that aims to capture the romantic vision of vintage New York in their watches. They achieved that goal with the launch of The Original Series One last year. It’s a charmingly retro piece, with a railway track minute scale and distinctive typography that evokes the golden era of New York. It has a 40mm stainless steel case and a gorgeous blue dial, offset with rhodium plated accents. Inside, it houses the Swiss STP 1-11 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve. $595 (approx. £490), available from hesiliny.com

Forstner Bands –Komfit

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$125 (approx. £100), available from forstnerbands.com

Cased In Time – Sonic Blue Watch Case

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FINWATCHSTRAPS – SAIL CLOTH AND CORDURA STRAPS

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WATCH & STRAP – THE BERLIN

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TEMPORAL GOODS –RIGID CASE

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$350 (approx. £305), available from temporalgoods.com

Neem –CottonRegenerative Shirt

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Lerins – Palm Suede and Recycled Sea Plastic

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£130, available from lerinslondon.com

PANTHERELLA – STALBRIDGE

Pantherella pride themselves on producing the finest English socks and honestly, looking at the Stalbridge, it’s a claim that’s easy to support. Made from luxurious cashmere with a rich, red colouration, they’re three times warmer than sheep’s wool equivalents and incredibly soft. Plus, with Pantherella’s signature seamless toe, there’s no uncomfortable bunching or catching. Alternative colours include denim blue and a mid-tone green. £45, available from pantherella.com

VIVVANT – ALEXIS TAN SUEDE JODHPUR BOOTS

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CHRISTOPHER CLOOS – CLOOS X BRADY GREY TONIC

Tom Brady is the perennial poster boy of the NFL and for good reason, the man has style. Which is why the collaboration between him and Danish eyewear brand Christopher Cloos makes perfect sense. The Cloos x Brady Grey Tonic sunglasses bridge the gap between vintage-inspired design and modern materials, produced in completely biodegradable materials. They have a lovely, gentle grey tone that suits the subtlety and quiet strength of the design. £129, available from christophercloos.co.uk

MONTEGRAPPA – FIFA CLASSICS ENGLAND FOUNTAIN PEN

The Italian producer of luxury writing implements is celebrating the launch of the FIFA World Cup with a series of intriguing, limited edition pens based on competing countries. This is the Classics England edition, which features the English flag on the cap, a red and white striated pattern body, and gold nib – available as a fountain, rollerball or ballpoint pen. The limited edition package comes with two cartridges and a special World Cup themed notebook that marks the iconic history of England at the World Cup with special attention paid to 1966.

Ballpoint £510, Rollerball £625, Fountain £1,045, limited to 66 pieces each, available from montegrappa.co.uk

Cambridge Audio –Melomania 1+

Cambridge Audio have more than 50 years of experience in luxury audio and the fruits of that experience are the Melomania 1+ in-ear, wireless headphones. They have won both design and performance awards in 2022 including the Platinum award from T3. One of the key innovations is the Melomania app for iOS and Android, which allows users to adjust EQs on the fly and customise the listening experience to your preference.

£49.95, available from amazon.com

Flexispot – E8 Desk

Just a few years ago, no one would imagine this work from home utopia that we now live in. But if you haven’t got your home office set up yet, now is the time. The Flexispot E8 offers a smart alternative to traditional desks. It’s height adjustable and comes with an inbuilt USB charging port, making it easy to keep your gadgets topped up while you work. It also has an incredibly stylish finish in bamboo lacquer. £419.99, available from flexispot.co.uk

CAMPFIRE AUDIO – TRIFECTA

Campfire Audio produce handcrafted earphones for discerning audiophiles. Their latest launch is Trifecta, which features earphones made from clear nylon that reveal the three internal, gold-plated, 10mm ADLC diaphragm dynamic drivers. The triangular configuration creates a performance enhancing acoustically tuned chamber to create a surprisingly rich and massive sound from such a small piece of technology. $3,375 (approx. £2,800), limited to 333 pieces, available from campfireaudio.com

ANSIX DESIGN –FANTOM X WALLET

Ansix take an engineering approach to the trials of everyday life, updating outdated concepts with modern solutions. A prime example is the Fantom X Wallet, which does away with bulky design in favour of a slim concept that allows you to access your cards efficiently. Plus, it has inbuilt RFID protection, preventing your cards being read unintentionally. Plus, while it’s built for an increasingly cashless world, it’s still capable of carrying cash or even keys. £105, available from store.

fantomwallet.com

by MICHAEL SONSINO

Every Party Needs Jay Z

The watch collection of a hip-hop legend on every party playlist

How do you even begin to talk about Jay Z? It’s not as if the man needs an introduction, he’s only one of the most successful artists and producers of the modern age. It’s almost a guarantee that

your party playlist features music by him, featuring him, or produced by him. He’s unmatched in terms of influence and perhaps only his wife, Beyoncé, has more clout.

Speaking of clout, in the hip-hop circles Jay Z moves in, a major signifier of status is your wristwatch. To put it lightly, Jay Z’s collection might be one of the most impressive displays of horological opulence around.

Let’s just list off a few of his watches before we take a closer look at a couple.

To kick things off there’s his Patek Philippes, including the Nautilus Ref. 3800, Tiffany Nautilus, and the legendary Grandmaster Chime. Multiple Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks, a Hublot Big Bang Diamond, Jacob & Co. Five Time Zones, a Richard Mille 56 Custom Blueprint, RM 56-01 Tourbillon Sapphire and, RM001. And this is by no means an exhaustive list.

He was spotted wearing the Tiffany Nautilus shortly after the 10 watches were revealed at the end of 2021, the timing coinciding with the announcement that both Jay and Beyoncé are ambassadors for Tiffany & Co. If he wasn’t seen with this particular watch, he wouldn’t have been ambassador-ing properly. However, that doesn’t detract from the fact that on his wrist it started a watchmaking infatuation with turquoise that’s still going strong almost a full year later.

We also have to mention the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G, a watch that had a ticket price of over $2.2 million at its launch in 2016. It has 20 individual complications including a perpetual calendar and Grande Sonnerie powered by the Patek Philippe 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM manual calibre with 72-hour power reserve. Grail watch is an understatement of how rare and exquisite this watch truly is.

However, there’s always a bigger price tag and one watch that’s even pricier than the Grandmaster Chime is Jay Z’s Richard Mille 56 Custom Blueprint. A Richard Mille isn’t accessible to mere mortals at the best of times, even less so if you want one in full sapphire. Only someone on Z’s level could even conceive of asking for a one-of-one Richard Mille in custom coloured sapphire. The 56 Blueprint was created specially to commemorate his classic album The Blueprint and cost an eye-watering $2.5 million.

So the next time you hear Jay Z rap about Audemars Piguets on alligator straps, or Rollies that don’t tick tock, you know that he’s talking from firsthand experience.