Oracle Time - Issue 75 - The Sustainable Issue. by Oracle Time Magazine

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .75

The Sum of All

FEARS The Sustainable Issue ECO-TRAVEL | MICROBRANDS | CLEAN-CUT STYLE

ISSUE 75

5.95

ORACLE TIME #75

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Fears Archival

If you managed to leave your house much during lockdown, you might have noticed something, possibly one of the only positives to come out of Covid 19: London’s air was breathable again. Air pollution dropped by half, which was great! The problem is, now that we’re getting back into whatever normal life has become, things are sliding the wrong direction once again which, as Greta Thunburg will tell you at length, is not good. Which is why this issue, we’re focusing on sustainability. And before you ask, no, this paper is not recycled. We still have standards to keep up. That said, if there’s one industry that’s embraced sustainability it’s fashion, with labels aplenty building entire collections on ethically sourced, conscientiously made pieces – or at least, that’s what they’d have us think. Ian Taylor helps us separate the truly responsible from the greenwashed plastic on page 92. It’s a thinking that’s best exemplified in our shoot this issue, shot against the backdrop of the stunning (and stunningly elevated) Manhattan Loft Gardens in Stratford. From tailored to poolside, these are the looks that any eco-warrior can pull off, complemented by an array of cool, minimal timepieces – many of which have an upcycled angle all their own. Sure, while watches are inherently sustainable – as is any luxury product designed to last a few generations – there are still ways watchmakers have been embracing eco-friendly ideas, as Mr. Justin Hast investigates on page 40. From smaller packaging to recycled materials, it’s slow but steady progress. Of course, while recycled materials tend to be more in the case than the calibres, that doesn’t mean you can’t recycle the movements themselves. Or at the very least, opt for new-old-stock numbers – like those at the core of our cover stars this issue, the Fears Archival 1930s on page 44. Released to celebrate 175 years of Fears watches, the pair is split between a two-hand and small seconds models, each with the British brand’s usual, obsessive attention to detail. Each has an authentic 1930s or 1960s movement inside, cleaned up and back in action. Waste not, want not. If there’s one sub-sector of the watch world though that’s used to doing as much as they can with as little as possible, it’s microbrands. The entrepreneurial watch labels have done anything but slow things down over the past year and there have been more releases worth lauding than ever. Enough, in fact, that we conscripted the help of independent watch maestro Thor Svaboe for our 2021 Microbrand Guide. Looking for something with more bang for your buck than a stag strapped with dynamite? Check out page 51. As borders open up again it’s not just pollution that’s getting back into the swing of things. Jet-setters have their eyes on the horizon, too – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. As Lewis Nunn explains on page 136, there are plenty of brands in travel that aren’t just carbon neutral, but are instead doing some genuine good for the environment. Who can argue with guiltfree luxury? Even if it does make for some infuriating Instagram posts, #blessed. Finally, we take a look at how Crypto too – which is becoming as big an environmental bogeyman as international travel – is set to change course, potentially transforming from the power hungry monster it is right now to the future of currency the digitally-savvy have been promising us for years. As ever, enjoy this issue – and don’t forget to recycle it when you’re done. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

ORACLE TIME #75

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITORS

Joel Meadows Dan Mobbs

Shane C. Kurup

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Thor Svaboe

Lewis Nunn

As the sole Norwegian who doesn’t like snow or climbing mountains, Thor has honed his florid writing skills at Time + Tide, and is now an editor at Fratello Watches. This Viking would fearlessly go into battle under the banner of independent watchmaking, and his End Game watch would be the piece unique Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1.

Often dubbed the real-life Patsy Stone, Lewis is an editor and travel journalist writing about luxury travel and cruise holidays for all leading Fleet Street newspapers. He knows how to travel in style – preferably with a glass of Bolly in-hand.

danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

Justin Hast

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

Describing himself as “unreasonably optimistic and deeply curious”, multihyphenate creative Mr Justin Hast is a photographer, writer and consultant with an impressive portfolio of brands under his belt, including the likes of Drake’s, Leica, IWC and Asprey.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4615

Ian Taylor

Ian is a journalist who splits his time between fashion and science, and therefore loves a tailored lab coat. He’s the former editor of FashionBeans.com and AskMen. com, and has also worked for Men’s Health, Mr Porter and Esquire. It’s his 40th birthday next year and, in case she’s reading, his wife has promised him a Rolex.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7875 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7875 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

ORACLE TIME #75

CONTENTS

OT M AG A ZIN E / ISSU E 75

18 — AFICIONADO

44 — THE HANDS OF TIME

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and the best in horology

36 — ANYONE FOR TENNIS?

We talk to tennis star Cameron Norrie about his Rado and hereditary love of watches

40 — ASK THE ORACLE

The future of sustainable watchmaking is explained

British brand Fears steps back in time with a pair of remarkably faithful recreations to celebrate 175 years

“Over lockdown we were thinking how to celebrate 175 years of Fears. Out of nowhere, I get a call asking if I wanted 60 new-oldstock movements from the 1930s” The Hands of Time — p44

ORACLE TIME #75

CONTENTS

78 — CLEAN CUT

Pair this season’s best sustainable clean-cut watches with the fashion to match

90 — SQUEAKY CLEAN Stock your grooming cabinet with our choice of ecofriendly unguents

92 — MATERIAL GAINS

Separate the good from the greenwashed with our sustainable fabrics guide

113 — MAN OF INFLUENCE

Chris Beccan reveals a synergy between whisky and watches

136

117 — WATCH REVIEWS We get hands on with Mondaine and Oris

126 — DRINK IT IN

Exploring the best English sparkles and spirits to keep on your tipple radar

136 — A BRAVE NEW WORLD OF TRAVEL

As the borders open up once again, should we reconsider how we travel? 51

The Schofield Watch Company have created a small universe of British perfection in Sussex The Ultimate Microbrand Guide — p51

51 — THE ULTIMATE MICROBRAND GUIDE Small in scale but big in creativity these are the best micros for all budgets in 2021

69 — SMOOTH OPERATORS

The winders that’ll keep your horological engines ticking

142 — CRYPTO’S GREEN FUTURE

It has an image problem, but might still be the financial future we were promised

147 — UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

Exploring the elegant crowned pioneer to first feature the day and date on its dial

150 – IN FOCUS

An Italian strap specialist and a new Beatles watch go under the spotlight

160 – MOVIE WATCH

One of the best worst films to feature some of the best 80s shimmering classic timepieces

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

FRONT — aficionado

ASTON MARTIN VALHALLA

Named after the Hall of Warriors, you’d expect the new Aston Martin Valhalla to be dramatic, and it certainly lives up to that expectation. This is Aston Martin’s first ever mid-engine, hybrid supercar, combining everything they’ve learned over their decades producing luxury vehicles and their recent re-entry into Formula 1. The new V8 and twin E-Motors produce 950bhp, giving a top speed of 217mph and a 0-60 of 2.5 seconds. Learn more at astonmartin.com

FRONT — aficionado

HOUSE ATOP THE ROCK

This large building atop a rocky crag in Canada looks more like an Avengers compound than the family home it is. It was designed by the firm Gort Scott who won an invitational competition to earn the commission. The building combines light and dark areas, with cool and refreshing subterranean rooms mixed with open areas of outdoor terrace. There are many concrete buildings in the world but few are in such a dramatic location as the rocks overlooking a lake. Learn more at gortscott.com

FRONT — aficionado

ARTISANS DE GENÈVE MAGGIORE

It’s hard to beat a stainless steel Rolex Daytona, but how about a solid gold one? The latest project from Artisans de Genève combines a rose gold case and bracelet with a grey ceramic bezel to evoke an autumnal scene on the shores of Lake Maggiore on the Swiss-Italian border. The sapphire dial also provides a stunning visual of the gold and anthracite-coated movement housed inside, giving a beautiful yet technical appearance. Learn more at artisansdegeneve.com

FRONT — aficionado

THE WASABI COMPANY

One of the surprising trends that came out of international lockdowns is the immense popularity of DIY meal kits and one of the coolest has to be the wasabi starter kit from The Wasabi Company. Not only is this a ‘do it at home’ kit that lets you grate and mix your own wasabi, but also The Wasabi Company are the only brand that grows the plant in the UK. wasabi starter kit, £23, alternative starter kits £20-£100, find out more at thewasabicompany.co.uk

FRONT — aficionado

MACALLAN CONCEPT NO. 3

Whisky is as much a cultural and artistic expression as it is a tasty drink and that’s exemplified by Macallan’s concept series, which is culminating with the Concept No. 3. The expression has been made in collaboration with David Carson, an American graphic designer whose signature typography adorns the bottle. The whisky is fresh with a golden hue with primary flavours of apple and pear mixed with oak. For more information visit themacallan.com

FRONT — aficionado

CASIO G-SHOCK X MARINO MORWOOD

London-based designer Marino Morwood’s Cetra Visions has gone from strength to strength since Morwood first started supplying clothes for rap superstars like A$AP Rocky and Quavo in 2016. Now, in a limited series of 200 pieces, he’s worked alongside Casio to create the G-Shock DW5600CETRA-7ER, a white resin version of the classic DW-5600 with orange patterns that are a Cetra Visions signature. Functionally it’s G-Shock as we’ve always known it, stylistically it’s at the bleeding edge of rap design. 200 pieces at £119 from g-shock.co.uk/cetra

FRONT — aficionado

RUARK BEACH HUT BLUE

Sure, the great audio quality and useability of the Ruark R1 Beach Hut Blue makes it an attractive mid-sized radio but what puts it a tier above is the design. The limited edition blue lacquer combines with the wood-patterned front to give it the appearance of (as its name suggests) a miniature, summer-ready beach hut. It has a lot more character than most speakers and is a fun addition to any audio set-up. £229.99, available from ruarkaudio.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

SPACE BOUND Since the last edition of Oracle Time two billionaires have been to space: Sir Richard Branson and Jeff Bezos. On July 11 Branson took off in his Virgin Galactic rocket plane for a 1.5 hour trip, while Bezos’ trip aboard the New Shepherd a few days later lasted only 11 minutes. So

Bezos barely had time to use his custom Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch that was created for the occasion. The caseback is engraved with the Blue Origin logo, Bezos’ name and the flight number. Visit omegawatches.com

Bezos barely had time to use his custom Omega Speedmaster

FRONT — world news

CRACKING THE CODE WORKSHOP Watchmaking masterclasses aren’t a new concept but a watchmaking giant has entered the ring with their very first masterclass, which started in the middle of August and will continue until October. The giant in question is Audemars Piguet with the masterclass, entitled ‘Cracking History’s Code’, consisting of a tour of the Atelier and assembling a historic movement, as well as the opportunity for guests to decorate a timepiece that they can keep as a souvenir. August-October, CHF 390 per person (approx. £300), for more information visit audemarspiguet.com

Cracking History’s Code is a new watch masterclass run by giant Audemars Piguet

AUCTION FOR 9/11 RESPONDERS It’s hard to believe that the shocking events of 9/11 happened 20 years ago. In commemoration of the event, William Wood has partnered with the Tunnel to Towers Foundation to launch a special charity auction with 100% of the profits going to the foundation and their Fallen First Responder Home Program, which helps those left behind by the responders who lost their lives across the United States that day. The auction will consist of a 1-of-1 special edition William Wood watch with bids open from 6th until 13th September. To register your interest, visit williamwoodwatches.com

SOTHEBY’S PARTNER UP WITH THE DISTILLER’S CHARITY The luxury auction house Sotheby’s has announced a six-year partnership with The Distiller’s Charity in support of disadvantaged youth in Scotland. Over the six-year period they will curate three

The first whiskey auction is in December

biennial auctions of rare and unique Scotch whiskies and experiences, with the series being known as ‘The Distiller’s One of One’. The first of these auctions will take place at Barnbougle Castle in Edinburgh on 3rd December, consisting of 40 lots with estimated prices as high as £250,000. Learn more at sothebys.com

FRONT — world news

SEIKO CELEBRATES ITS 140TH ANNIVERSARY WITH NEW EXHIBITION If you’ve been paying attention to any Seiko or Grand Seiko release this year, you’ll be well aware that the brands are celebrating the 140th anniversary of the company’s founding by Kintaro Hattori. It was inevitable that they would eventually reveal an exhibition in honour of the milestone and it comes with digital accessibility. With international travel still limited, you can view the exhibit online with a guided tour by Akio Naito, the current President of Seiko. View the exhibit here, seikowatches.com

DISCOVER THE HISTORY OF FEARS WATCHES If you want to know all about Fears, there are plenty of places to look in this issue, including the cover! However, if you want to delve into the 175 year history of the brand in incredible detail, then their new book is just the thing, titled Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company. Written by Jane Duffus and published by Bristol Books it tells the complete story of the brand’s founding in 1846, closure in the late 1970s and rebirth in 2016. £60, available from fearswatches.com

BENTLEY INTRODUCE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Bentley have taken a look at more than just the mechanics of their new Flying Spur Hybrid model when thinking about ways to be sustainable. The Odyssean limited edition that is kicking off the new production model introduces tweed and other high-quality environmentally safe materials to Bentley’s repertoire. Other key materials include open pore veneer wood that requires 90% less lacquer than traditional high gloss finishes. The Flying Spur Hybrid Odyssean showcases Bentley look to focus of the future of the green future Bentley’s sustainable motoring. bentleymotors.com of theircars

FRONT — world news

BREITLING TEAMS UP WITH TRIUMPH There is no greater name in British motorcycling than Triumph and they have just announced a longterm partnership with Swiss watchmaker Breitling. It’s a partnership we’re excited to see because the two brands share similar design philosophies. We don’t even have to wait too long because a collaborative special edition watch and a custom motorbike are slated for production in early 2022. For more info visit triumphmotorcycles.co.uk

Iconic British motorbike company Triumph is teaming up with Swiss watchmaker Breitling for a long-term partnership

GUESS T H E WATCH

Now that you’ve had two months to figure out our last guess the watch, it’s time to reveal the beast of a diver in question: the Panerai Mare Nostrum. It’s not the Italian heritage brand’s usual cushion case but it’s one of the coolest pieces they’ve ever produced, which is saying something.

This time let’s go for something a little more on the nose for the ‘green’ theme of this issue, a recent watch that adds a new touch of colour to arguably the most sought-after timepiece outside of vintage Rolex. I shouldn’t need to give you anything more than that; its silhouette is just that iconic. Good luck getting this particular version at auction, if recent prices are anything to go by. Know what it is? Email our Editor sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk for your chance to win a free subscription for you or a friend CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER

what is the

WATCH

FRONT — introducing

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VISIT THERE ARE LOTS OF WAYS to get your Oracle Time fix. Our favourite is of course within these lovely glossy pages to which you can subscribe via our website. An annual subscription containing 10 issues of the magazine is only £59.50, more value than a serious microbrand watch. Alternatively, you can come and say hello on one of our many digital channels. Instagram is the perfect place to share your wristshots and thoughts with us – remember to use the #OTWristshot. Or you can watch our latest video content on YouTube, listening to the dulcet tones of our editor via our website using the QR code above.

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FRONT — introducing

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

IN DETAIL •

44mm titanium case with 300m water resistance •

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Laureato Absolute Ti 230 Limited Edition

The Girard-Perregaux name is one of the oldest in watchmaking, yet as the brand approaches its 230th anniversary they’re going with a distinctly modern look: the newest, titanium-cased edition of their superlative Laureato. Hammering home its sporty credentials, it’s available in blue or grey dials and a surprisingly accessible price tag for the watchmaker.

JACOB & CO

Mystery Tourbillon Rose Gold

IN DETAIL

50mm rose gold case with 30m water resistance • Jacob & Co JCAM32 manualwind movement with 60hour power reserve • POA, jacobandco.com •

As ever, leave it to Jacob & Co to round things off with one of the most outrageous pieces of the year – now in colour. A rainbow of coloured sapphires around a triple axis tourbillon, the colours only align at 12 o’clock. Apparently even a rainbow is right twice a day. It’s a kaleidoscopic dose of over-thetop luxury watchmaking – so quintessential Jacob & Co.

GP03300-1060 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve •

£7,200, limited to 230 pieces each, girardperregaux.com

FRONT — introducing

IWC

IN DETAIL

40mm engraved stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Rolex 3131 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • POA, findestemps.com

Portofino Chronograph 39mm

•

A slightly downsized version of the Portofino might not grab everyone, but as far as we’re concerned it’s the goldilocks ‘just right’ size and worth a bit of attention. Throw in a handsome trio of dials – including, of course, a lovely green option (but surprisingly no blue) – and you have a middle-ofthe-road elegant timekeeper. It makes a nice change from IWC’s pilots at least.

IN DETAIL

39mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • IWC 79350 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • £5,150, iwc.com

•

FIN DES TEMPS CUSTOM ROLEX

Milgauss Rick and Morty Edition

What’s more popular than Rolex? Rick & Morty. What’s more popular than Rick & Morty? A Pickle Rick-themed custom take on the Milgauss, courtesy of Fin Des Temps. While the dial is relatively unchanged, the case and bracelet are a hand-engraved comic strip covering the titular pair, Snuffles the dog, whatever the hell the talking cat was and, of course, Pickle Rick in full rat-punk mode. Oh and plenty of gold science splotches. Mr. Poopybutthole would be proud.

FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL

42.2mm aluminium and wood case with 300m water resistance • Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £1,380, baume-et-mercier.com •

BAUME & MERCIER Baume 10653 ‘Skate’ Special Edition

Skating was the breakout star of Olympic events this year and among the various 13 year olds competing was 23-year-old (ancient) French skater Aurelien Giraud, who this board-centric Baume was designed with. Made from skateboard decks and grip take, it wears its inspirations on its sleeve in the most literal way. Giraud may have failed to medal, but at least he has a cool watch to make up for it.

BULOVA

50th Anniversary Lunar Pilot Limited Edition

Omega aren’t the only watchmaker to have conquered the final frontier; Bulova made it onto Apollo 15 by sneaking aboard the wrist of mission commander David R. Scott. This version of the Lunar Pilot commemorates the 50th anniversary of that space flight with an overall archival design with a couple of modern twists. Can’t afford a Speedy? Look no further.

IN DETAIL •

45mm titanium case with 50m water resistance •

Bulova high-tech 262 kHz quartz movement •

£795, uk.bulova.com

FRONT — facetime

NO.

FA C E T I M E The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

Cameron Norrie We talk to the British No. 2 about tennis, timekeeping and Harry Potter

ANDY MURRAY IS, without a doubt, one of the greatest tennis players ever. The British No. 1 – when he’s not having health issues – is a dominating force on the court and one that many a player looks up to. That’s especially true in the case of British No. 2 Cameron Norrie. Over the past couple of years, the 26-year-old has been honing his game, amping up his power and quietly moving up the ranks, one ATP after another. And, like any good tennis player, he’s now made his debut in the watch world with Swiss ceramic specialists Rado. Unfortunately, when I caught up with Norrie, it was on the back of a first-round defeat to Russian Karen Khachanov. How’d that feel?

“It was a tough draw, it happens. You can’t have an easy run of it every time. But I feel good, I’ve just gotten into Cincinnati, I have a good practice lined up and feel like I’ve bounced back.” It’s the kind of positive outlook any good sportsman needs and one that, despite harsh lockdown measures, Norrie seems to have kept up throughout the past year – though largely because he got out of dodge in good time. “Honestly, for me lockdown wasn’t so bad. My parents live in New Zealand, so I went back there when everything kicked off. We were locked down for a month before the country got down to zero cases and I could get back to normal life pretty quickly. I could go to the beach, play some golf and

FRONT — cameron norrie

just generally unwind from tennis, something I couldn’t normally do that time of year.” Time at beach aside, the first few ATPs back in full swing were odd affairs. The US Open, one of the first tournaments back on, was pretty much a ghost town. How did it feel coming back to tennis in the midst of that? “I missed the ATP tournaments, playing and competing again, which gave me that extra bit of hunger to get back out there. But it’s a bit different with no crowd. It wasn’t so much during the match but more walking around the courts at the US Open. There’s usually an amazing atmosphere but this time it felt surreal without anyone there to support.” Blip in Toronto aside, Norrie’s made no secret that he’s aiming for the top spot, and that means, first and foremost, gunning for Andy Murray’s spot at British No.1. “That’s the goal anyway, Murray’s such a legend in the game and you can learn a lot from him. I’m actually about to go practice with him after this. For me, he’s the one to beat.” So, will he, like Murray be segueing into fashion? “Ha, I’ll take that if it comes.” Obviously, there are more players than Murray out there, with as many different styles of tennis. Who then are the other guys he looks up to? “When I was younger I really liked Andre Agassi, the way he played, great return game and backhand. His was one of the first tennis books I ever read and respected him a lot more afterwards, understood that there was a lot more than tennis going on in his life.” And more recently? What about the top-level players now? “I’ve played Nadal three times this year and not won a set. It was brutal being on the receiving end of how he takes care of business and playing him on clay was special. Then there’s Federer. Amazingly personable guy and an absolutely legend. I played him at Wimbledon this year, was two sets to love, looked across the court and thought ‘man, this guy’s nearly 40 and he’s chomping me out!’” There’s always a bit of speculation on how long Federer will be in the game and, while he shows no signs of slowing, I thought I’d try and get the inside scoop on when Norrie reckoned the Swiss giant would bow out gracefully. “Next year would be my guess. But I hope he sticks around, obviously!” Now, we were here for Rado of course, so breaking away from tennis we needed to do our due diligence and discuss precisely what Norrie had on his wrist – and it’s one that many an Oracle Time reader should be familiar with, given it was on one of our recent covers: “The Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. I like the skeleton dial to see the movement underneath, that

After joining forces with Swiss ceramic specialists Rado and taking a liking to the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic (top) he spent part of lockdown in New Zealand with his parents, but now Norrie has set his sights on displacing Andy Murray as the nation’s highest seeded tennis player

FRONT — facetime

Tennis might be Norrie’s passion, but watches are seemingly in his blood as his dad is a keen collector with over 20 different pieces

“I like the skeleton dial to see the movement underneath, that whole overtly mechanical look. Rado do the whole ceramic look so well”

whole overtly mechanical look. Rado do the whole ceramic look so well too, it’s really slick. It’s also nice and light.” Light enough to play in perhaps? “Haha that might be tough, but we’ll see.” It’s a solid choice, even if I’d rather opt for one of the smaller 37mm models myself, with their charming retro vibes. Still, it’s a great watch, one that Norrie’s dad will most likely be wanting to try out for himself. “I’m getting into watches more and more, but my dad’s always been a watch nut so I’ll need to take him along when I can make time to visit the manufacturer. He never wanted to splurge on a nice watch so has like 20 different pieces that he obsessively checks the timekeeping on. He’s got one

now that he says has lost six seconds in six months and he’s loving it!” If measuring seconds lost a month is what his dad does at the weekend, what then does Norrie do to relax? Hopefully something a little more relaxed. I can’t imagine he’d want to wind down from tennis by winding up a movement. “I attempt to surf but I’m not great at it. Otherwise just spending time at the beach, watching Newcastle United or Fulham (where I used to live). I’m reading a lot between tournaments too, there’s not much else you can do with all the travelling in bubbles.” While you might expect his book of choice to be another tennis bio, Norrie seems to want a touch of escapism in his literature – which these days is fair enough. At least he’s gone for a Brit more famous even than Murray. “I’m actually reading the Harry Potter books, just got up to Prisoner of Azkaban. Britain’s obsessed with them so thought I’d see what the fuss is about. I never actually read them before, just watched the films, so I’m catching up.”

FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained Words by JUSTIN HAST

[The Future of Sustainable Watchmaking ]

Watches are somewhat of a paradox. One the one hand – incredibly sustainable. A product which lasts generations with intermittent intervention (the definition of luxury). On the other, the manufacturing process, packaging and profit maximisation is often damaging. For too long the watch world has gotten away without having to improve its practices, and customers, particularly younger ones (the ones that brand are targeting increasingly) recognise the weight (and correctly so) they place of understanding the supply chain and the impact on the world. The most obvious way brands are upping their eco game is via the materials they use. That’s been the case in straps for a while which are, admittedly, a pretty surface-level way of ensuring a modicum of sustainability. It also happens that there are some pretty cool examples out there – good for the planet, good on the wrist.

Breitling’s Outerknown ECONYL® yarn NATO strap collection, for example, was launched in 2019. Created in partnership with Outerknown (a supercool surf brand), the straps have been designed specifically for the Superocean collection. ECONYL® yarn is created exclusively from recycled nylon waste, some of which is recovered from discarded or lost fishing nets. The straps are not only recycled but are also completely recyclable and visually a powerful modern tribute to the surf culture of the 1950s and 1960s. Similarly, the Patravi ScubaTec Black, a new sporty number from Carl F. Bucherer, features its all-new black rubber strap with fabric made of 100% recycled plastic bottles removed from the ocean (it also looks mega). It ties in nicely with the brand’s ongoing work with the Manta Trust, helping to conserve rays and their habitats. However, more recently brands have been going a bit further in their quests to clean up the world and have begun including recycled materials into their watches proper. Sure, there have been concepts in the past doing just that but now we’re looking at a raft of new production pieces like Panerai’s eSteel. The eSteel is a huge step forward for Panerai and its commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact, as 89g of the eco-friendly Luminor Marina components are made of recycledbased materials, corresponding to the 58.4% of the total weight of the watch (that is 152.4g). Both the case and dial feature the new recycled-based steel alloy and the real challenge has been in ensuring the eSteel meets the same rigorous standards demanded of the cases that preceded it (interestingly the eSteel exhibits the identical chemical behavior,physical structure and resistance to corrosion as the non-recycled alloy). Perhaps the most pervasive materials for cases though is made from recycled fishing nets and other assorted marine plastics. That plastic makes up a worrying amount of ocean waste and Ulysse Nardin with their Diver NET, Alpina with their Seastrong Diver Gyre Automatic and Christopher Ward with the shiny new C60 #tide all use it. Provided you don’t mind a plastic watch, it’s a great angle.

FRONT — watchmaking’s future

The Panerai Luminor Marine eSteel (right) uses recycled metal, similar to the blue powdery material (below) from the #tide project run by Christopher Ward, while the #tide project (bottom) trains and pays fishermen to collect plastic waste which is ready for recycling

“ Outside of the watches themselves – both figuratively and literally – the packaging they come in is as big an issue as the timepieces ” Outside of the watches themselves – both figuratively and literally – the packaging they come in is as big an issue as the timepieces. Perhaps more, given the amount of random boxes collectors can end up accruing. Sustainable materials like vegan leather are a good part of brands’ efforts to change their ways, but IWC has done it via an inspired new single travel case – which doubles as a watch box for multiple cases. The cases use 30% less material and 90% less plastic than before. Not only do they plug in with modern day travel plans of many (pre pandemic anyway) they are obviously reusable and multi-functional which is fantastic. Less is more. Finally, there’s what brands have been doing for decades: watches for good causes. Honestly, these are often as much a marketing ploy as a genuine charity drive, but if they raise money for the right causes, who can argue? They often bring attention to eco charities that otherwise fly (or more often, swim) under the radar.

FRONT — ask the oracle

Sorting through the plastic waste used for the #tide project (left), which could end up as eco-friendly, recycyled straps made in collaboration between Breitling and surf brand Outerknown (below). Alternatively, the Panerai Luminor Marine eSteel (bottom) remains eco using recycled metal

I’ve already mentioned the Manta Trust, but there’s also Ulysse Nardin’s work with OCEARCH and the FIU Medina Aquarius Program with the DIVER Lemon Shark, Hublot’s drive to save the rhinos with the skeleton-dialled Big Ban Unico SORAI and pretty much everything Blancpain do that’s not a heritage limited edition via their Ocean Commitment programme. These initiatives aren’t going to change the structural sustainability of fine watchmaking any time soon, but they’re nice to know all the same. Buy a diving watch, save the world? What’s not to love. As I said, watches aren’t exactly the great polluters of the world, especially at the higher end. They’re built to last and aren’t petrol-powered or particularly wasteful. But by making a few changes here and there, the watch world at large is showing a surprising – and admittedly marketable – commitment to the environment. After all, in the immortal words of Patek Philippe – “you merely look after it for the next generation”.

“ By making a few changes here and there, the watch world at large is showing a surprising – and admittedly marketable commitment to the environment ”

FRONT — hands of time

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

THE HANDS OF TIME BRITISH WATCH BRAND FEARS RELEASES A PAIR OF FAITHFUL RECREATIONS TO CELEBRATE THEIR 175TH ANNIVERSARY

FRONT — hands of time

Fears are celebrating their 175th anniversary with two special edition editions: a 39-piece limited edition small seconds and a two-hander, limited to 136 pieces

If you’ve been keeping an eye on the British watch industry over the past few years, I likely don’t need to introduce Fears to you. The heritage-inspired, Bristol-born watchmaker’s become a bit of a darling with their modern takes on 1930s designs – particularly the cushion-cased Brunswick which, full disclosure, I own myself. Yet while the last five years, since fourth brand director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived the family business from the archives of homegrown horology, have been nothing but glowing for the brand, now they’re on a precipice. This year marks an incredible 175 years since Edwin Fear first set up his workshop at 33-35 Redcliff Street, Bristol.

“We have an incredible history and plenty of watches to choose from if we wanted to recreate one. But I didn’t want to copy what other watchmakers did in the past” 46

That’s a big deal by any stretch of the imagination. It makes Fears as old as the saxophone. Seriously, the saxophone. And so, for the first time, the British brand has delved into those nearly two centuries of historical designs for a very special limited edition: the Archival 1930. At a time when rectangular watches are back in vogue (thanks, Cartier) the Art Deco-adjacent stylings of the new, limited edition pair of Fears watches are on point. As you may have gathered from the images we took of the pair, there are two distinct watches within the new release, a 39-piece limited edition small seconds which leans a little heavier into the 1920s and a more pared-back two-hander, limited to 136 pieces. Both have the kind of champagne dials that ooze vintage class, complemented by a golden border around the edge, emphasising that Art Deco detail. What’s less apparent until you get it on your wrist is that the border is inset: the champagne colour has been built up around it. The rectangular case is 40mm lug-to-lug and 22mm across, a touch larger and more wearable than the period-appropriate delicacy of the original 1930s design. It’s also curved, front and back, so sits on the wrist nicely. Both pieces are set on an Oxblood strap by fellow Bristolian brand Thomas Ware & Sons – who, in the kind of poeticism you can’t make up, made straps for Fears back in the 1930s. Beyond that, it’s also just a damn fine strap and, like other Fears fare, comes in both a normal and shorter version. Overall, the Archival 1930 in both its variations is an incredibly faithful take on the archives, so much so that it might make you wonder why Fears hasn’t done something like this before. Bowman-Scargill elaborates: “We have an incredible history and plenty of watches to choose from if we wanted to recreate one. But I didn’t want to rely on that initially, just copying what other watchmakers did in the past. I wanted to imagine what a Fears would look like if it were designed today. Anything else would have been too easy.” So that must make the 1930 Archival the easiest watch Fears have made to date? Unfortunately not for one major reason: the movements. Bowman-Scargill elaborates: “Over lockdown we were thinking how to celebrate 175 years of the Fears

FRONT — hands of time

“Over lockdown we were thinking how to celebrate 175 years of Fears. Out of nowhere, I get a call asking if I wanted 60 new-old-stock movements from the 1930s”

watch company. Out of nowhere, I get a call asking if I wanted 60 new-old-stock movements that were actually from the 1930s. It was a no-brainer.” For him maybe. For the watchmakers that work with Fears? Ouch. These aren’t the clean, uniform calibres of today: that’s a collection of 60 different disassembled movements that are the same calibre in the same way that every Marvel film is the same. Sure, structurally, thematically and aesthetically they’re much of a muchness, but each is unique. Nevertheless, those 60 – and a selection of later, 1960s movements – have been assembled, serviced and given a new lease of life. The original 1930s movements are housed in the small seconds model: the 1960s in the slightly more numerous twohand versions. But why 136 of one, 39 of the other? Well, Fears was out of operation for 39 years between 1976 and 2016 and the Archival 1930 Small Seconds is a welcome nod to the dark years, the kind of thing that most heritage watchmakers try to brush under the carpet. It’s that embracing of history why, rather than an x/175 designation, each of the 175 watches has been given a date instead. If you want a specific date, you can request it – other, of course, than 1846, which has been donated to the Bristol Museum for their permanent collection. Giving back and all that. Either way, the Archival 1930 is, dare I say it, affordable. And not ‘affordable for a serious limited edition’ but affordable, affordable. The twohander will set you back £3,500 while the small seconds just a smidge more at £3,950. It feels strange that Fears in its current incarnation is just five years old and that, for a good part of those years, they made more quartz pieces than anything. They’ve always played very well on their British heritage and it feels right that, to celebrate 175 years, the watch in question is obsessively authentic. I still doubt Fears is going to outlive the saxophone, but it looks like they’re going to make a good fist of trying.

The Archival 1930 pared-back two-hander (top) harks back to the Art Deco period, while all three watches in the collection celebrate the 175 years of Fears legacy

FRONT — ultimate microbrands

T H E U LT I M AT E

MICROBRAND

GUIDE 2021 Edited by : THOR SVABOE & SAM KESSLER

As our regular Microbrand Corner has shown over the past few months, the global pandemic hasn’t dented the output from the smaller, independent watch brands of the micro world. It’s not surprising; most are passion projects, small in scale and output but big in creativity and personality. In fact, it’s been a job and a half just keeping up with them all - which is why we’ve opted for a joint assault on the subject with our own Editor Sam Kessler and Independents Expert Thor Svaboe. So, without any more preamble than necessary (there’s a lot to get through) here is the Oracle Time Microbrand Guide for 2021 – divided into price so you can fit our options to your budget. Enjoy!

FRONT —multimate microbrands

UNDER £300

NEZUMI STUDIOS Tonnerre

The Nordic purveyors of petrol-infused retro, Nezumi studios have perfected their colourful chronograph portfolio with the fresh Tonnerre, and we love it. Excuding a strong Heuer Skipper feel, the blues on the dial brings to mind a summer on the Côte d’Azur. Blue skies, Sunkissed hair and linen shorts packed into a compact vintage 38mm. The Tonnerre is a tangential departure from their brand of motorsports chronos, and with its airy maritime blues all the better for it. With the solidity of a Seiko mechaquartz, surely this is one of the best value summer tri-compax choices out there.

THE DETAIL •

38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance •

Seiko VK 63 mecha-quartz movement •

SEK3,160 (approx. £265) nezumistudios.com

BREW WATCH Metric Retro Dial

Have a hankering for the 60s and don’t fancy splurging on a vintage original? Brew Watch has you covered. The coffee-centric studio founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer has a penchant for the painfully cool side of retro horology and the Metric is a funky take on a 1930s telephone timer – only adapted to time the perfect brew time for an espresso shot. There’s never been a classier way to get your caffiene fix.

THE DETAIL •

38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance •

HYBRID VK68 MECA-QUARTZ Movement •

$395 (approx. £290), brew-watches.com

FRONT — under £300

CHARLIE PARIS Concordia Blue

An elegant French blue Explorer alternative, the established French brand Charlie Paris has nailed the everyday sports watch in the Concordia series. While also available in a 41mm automatic, this 38mm piece of elegant daily wristcandy is hard to beat at the price. One of the very few sub-40mm sports watches available with a 300m depth rating makes this a bulletproof beater with consummate style.

THE DETAIL •

38mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance •

Seiko VH31 quartz with sweep seconds •

€275 (approx. £235) on a choice of straps charlie-paris.com

FURLAN MARRI Chronograph

With their debut campaign quadruple-funded within minutes, and Patek Philippe collectors sharing content on IG, The Furlan Marri Chronograph is the biggest horological Kickstarter success this year. Andrea Furlan and his partner Hamadi Al Marri have proven that a savvy sense of mid-century panache and a curated sense of detail is the path to a successful debut. The five goldilocks-sized 38mm references are powered by the solid Seiko VK-94 calibre, with an air of seductive elegance that punches several leagues above their price point.

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The Chronograph punches several leagues above their price point

THE DETAIL: • 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VK94 mecha-quartz movement • CHF500 (Kickstarter CHF320) (approx. £255) linktr.ee/furlanmarri

FRONT — ultimate microbrands

THE DETAIL:

VARIO

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37mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

1918 Trench

Instead of the usual Dirty Dozen or A-11 style field watches we’re used to, Vario’s vintage-inspired take goes back a bit further to the trench watches of WWI. That means a case akin to a classical pocket watch on a chunky bund strap in an array of vintage colourways, of which our favourite is this crisp white dial with orange lumed indexes. There are a few modern nods of course, like steel instead of an authentic brass case and a Japanese movement, but aesthetically it’s pretty damn authentic.

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Miyota 82s5 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve •

£239 vario.sg

REVERIE GT

Reverie’s previous diver was a standout for the unusually lavish guilloche on the dial; now the micro has turned their attention to the open road in much the same way with the simplynamed GT. There are a trio of colours available but let’s be honest, if you’re after a racing watch you’ll want the Panda. The black on white sub-counters are shorthand for old-school automotive, and are usually a little pricier than this. The dial finishing is as superb as ever with a knurled look at home on a classic dashboard, while the price is kept nice and accessible with a quartz movement. That said, the Seiko VK64 mecha-quartz still offers sweeping seconds so if no-one asks, don’t feel the need to tell them what’s inside. They’ll never know.

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The dial finishing is as superb as ever, while the price is kept accessible

THE DETAIL: 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seiko VK64 mecha-quartz movement • $360 (approx. £260) reveriewatches.com

FRONT — under £500

UNDER £500

SCURFA

Treasure Seeker

Most dive watches are admittedly, designed by horologists rather than actual divers. Not so at Scurfa, as they are created by professional saturation diver Paul Scurfield. If there’s one guy that understands the demands of days at depth it’s he, and the Treasure Seeker is Scurfa’s best piece yet. Sure, the bright orange may have Doxa overtones, but that’s simply because it’s one of the most legible colours at depth, differentiated here with its cool honeycomb embossing. Powered by a workhorse Miyota movement and rated to 300m, it has everything a professional diver needs in a distinctly eye-catching package. Now to go and distract myself from nightmares of living at the bottom of the ocean...

THE DETAIL: 38mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • STP 1-11 automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • $499 (approx. £365) yorkfront.com

YORK & FRONT Burrard

THE DETAIL: 41mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £442 scurfawatches.com

The York & Front team must have analysed watch media and case studies (pun intended) over the last five years, as the slim Burrard is pretty much a recipe for comfort. A matte black dial, sharp case and big crown gives it a mid-century military slant. With its slim case, comfort and wearability comes on a soft two-stitch leather, and it’s slim enough not to bulk up on a NATO. There’s a double-domed sapphire crystal for those cool Instagram dial distortion shots, and this tough cookie will sit perfectly with anything from a Parka to a tailored suit.

TSAO

Baltimore Legacy

Super compressors are cool. It’s a fact of life that we’ve all come to accept and, if you top one of those with a beautiful blue fume dial you have a winner – especially if you can get it for under £500. Enter Tsao Baltimore, proving that the stateside penchant for slick micros is an ever-present danger to your wallet. The tonneau case is bronze because every heritage watch needs to patina like a vintage diving helmet these days, and combines the signature bidirectional inner bezel of a compressor with a sandwich dial and a solid 200m water resistance if you want to hurry that patina along. While the magenta is the most eye-catching of the four colours, the blue’s the most handsome. It’s just a shame there’s only 75 of each available… best get those preorders in.

THE DETAIL: •

40mm bronze case with 200m water resistance •

MD-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

$670 (approx. £490) tsaobaltimore.com

FRONT — ultimate microbrands

STUDIO UNDERD0G Chronograph

A proper dose of humour is needed in 2021, and UK microbrand Studio Underd0g pushes the grin button with their brash debut. Leaping out at us from the shots, the summer freshness of the Watermel0n is a welldeserved debut hit. Their twist on a Big Eye bicompax lends a 38mm flash of irreverent colour to your wrist, bright enough to cheer up any rainy day. Turn it around, and you’ll be hit with the juxtaposition of the traditional Seagull ST19 movement, a manual wind chronograph movement based on a fifties Venus calibre. Cheekily bright with a traditional twist, and a very British piece of wrist candy. If Sir doesn’t fancy a slice of melon, try the Go0fy Panda or Desert Sky.

THE DETAIL: 8.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Seagull ST 1901 manual winding movement • £370 underd0g.com •

SÓLÁS

Starlight Silver

Looking for a smart dress watch with a glitzy edge? You’ll want something with an aventurine and, looking at the general prices of them elsewhere, you’ll want it to be the Starlight from Irish micro Sólás. Simple and elegant in a sharp, precise kind of way, it’s almost as pretty on the reverse with its microrotor-equipped Hangzhou 5000A on fully display. Don’t get sniffy about the Chinese movement; it means that this incredibly handsome watch comes in at €549, a light price tag for what looks like heavy hitter, complete with a funky Irish salmonskin strap.

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THE DETAIL: 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Hangzhou 5000A automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €549 (approx. £470) solaswatches.com

BALTIC

Aquascaphe White

While we’re still holding out for a Baltic monopusher à la the microbrand’s groundbreaking induction into the Only Watch Charity Auction, in the meantime we’d settle for an icy white version of the French brand’s signature dive watch, the Aquascaphe. The retro dive watch sits pretty at 39mm of Fifty Fathomsesque charm with a lovely grained finish to the snowy dial. Otherwise it’s pure Baltic fare, with a Miyota movement, 200m water resistance and the kudos of being one of the most successful micros around.

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THE DETAIL: 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • MIYOTA 9039 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £498 baltic-watches.com

FRONT — £501 - £1,000

£ 5 0 1 - £ 1, 0 0 0

THE DETAIL: 39mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Newton(Soprod) automatic movement with 44-hour power reserve • $1,200 (approx. £875) serica-watches.com

SERICA WATCHES 5303-1

With Serica’s new 300m diver’s watch, the design team have dialled up the tool factor a fair few notches, and it pays off in raffish style. You’ll recognize the monochrome aesthetic of the 4512, but after a month at a diver’s boot camp to toughen up, expanding from 37.7 to 39mm in the process. With a new Swiss Newton calibre from Soprod, the case and bracelet design is complex yet balanced, with a legible yet whimsically busy dial. Top marks for to the bracelet, a charming twist on a Tudor P01-esque design. The solid end link mesh sits taperingly smooth between a brazen sweep of twisted lugs, yet another charming non-homage detail, and a very French one.

BRAVUR WATCHES Bravur x Wingårdh

A very Scandinavian look at watch design, and a collaboration with one of the architects at the forefront of new Nordic minimalism, there’s a strong focus on the details. Pièce de resistance? The limited number of the watch is marked by a dot on the silver Bauhaus minute track. This is printed on a deep navy dial as sharp as a bespoke Brioni suit, aptly marked Swedish Soul – Swiss Heart. And has Sir ever seen a green-lined calfskin strap with an embossed fish scale pattern?

THE DETAIL: 37mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $1,290 (approx. £940), limited to 50 pieces per colour, bravurwatches.com •

FRONT — ultmate microbrands

ISOTOPE GMT 0°

THE DETAIL: 38mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW210-1 hand wound movement with 40-hour power reserve • $735 (approx £535), small batch production halioswatches.com •

Quirky cool with one of the most unusual and legible GMT complications we’ve seen, the droplet-logoed Isotope is a sharp antidote should you have taken too big a sip of the vintage juice. With a formal cool language all its own, the Isotope has a wealth of colours to suit its casual modernist demeanour, and our favourite is the rich dark satin of the navy dial, the duotone split design being a guaranteed ice breaker in even modestly design-focused company.

HALIOS Universa

Halios is the Rolex of microbrands for value retention, and the dark blue dial Universa proves the point. The tool-tastic case has angular sweeping lugs, a svelte body and what might just be the best flat link bracelet this side of an Ed White. With the Zen of a manual Sellita SW210-1, the dial still steals the show. I am a fool for deep navy sunburst, and the Bathyal blue lends the cool, square indexes a floating quality, Super-Luminova making them pop in the night. The bezel-less case design has a modern vibe that gets a distinct touch of vintage with an onion crown, and the finishing touch? The light blue pop of the seconds arrow tip.

THE DETAIL: 41,5 mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Swisstech S24-45 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • £710 isotopewatches.com •

FINE WATCHES BERLIN Valentina Red

This is an eye-catching, charity slanted number from German watch designers Fine Watches Berlin. Yes, the name’s not subtle but then neither is the watch. Based on their flagship Teufelsberg with its funky asymmetrical sub-seconds, this edition substitutes their usual Bauhaus slant with bright scarlet. It’s arleady a decent amount of watch for the price, with a solid automatic movement, but the 100-piece limited edition is also raising money for Stiftung Valentina, a foundation for critially ill children. If that’s not a worthy cause, nothing is. THE DETAIL: 40.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota calibre 8218 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €698 (approx. £590) finewatches.berlin

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FRONT — £501 - £1,000

STRAUM Opphav

With their elegant Opphav, Nordic brand Straum has managed the complex task toeing the line between sports and formality, infused with Viking-inspired Nordic roots and a Swiss heart. Confused? After a brief glance within, you might just be captured by a deep gloss darkness in green, blue or grey. With a sharp mastery of brush and bevel, the 41mm case has a hint of a certain porthole-design, slender at 11mm, and resolutely modern of line. With beguiling dials and a soft vegetable tanned leather strap, this might be the strongest Nordic microbrand debut of the year. Now let’s petition them for an integrated bracelet.

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THE DETAIL: 41mm 316L steel case with a 46.6mm lug to lug, and a depth rating of 100 meters • Sellita SW200 self-winding movement with a decorated rotor. • £720 on a vegetable tanned full grain leather strap • straum.com

EMG

Odyssey Automatic GMT

By new we’ve seen pretty much every combination of blue, red, black and white on a GMT, enough that we’re crying out for some more eye-catching colours. Apparently EMG heard us as this ‘Sunrise’ version of their retro, dual-crown traveller’s watch is a stunner. Split between a crisp white dial and a white and yellow inner GMT bezel, it’s a simple yet eye-catching twist on a classic design – especially in low light when the blue lume comes out to play.

THE DETAIL: 40.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW-330 Automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $750 (approx. £545) • emgwatches.com •

FRONT — £1,001 - £1,500

£ 1, 0 0 1 - £ 1,5 0 0

TEN ELEVEN NINE Researcher

Germany does tool watches well but, while they do tend to be of the Flieger variety, fledgling micro Ten Eleven Nine has taken a more elegant approach. Founder Leif Henrik Osthoff’s eye for mid-century design is pretty self-evident in his brand’s first trio of pieces – the Minimal, Weltweit and Researcher – all of which riff off the same Explorer-adjacent vibes. For me, it’s all about that latter version with the classic 12 and six with indexes everywhere else. It’s a tough yet minimal piece that hits the aesthetic sweet spot for an everyday watch with style.

THE DETAIL: 38mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Sellita SW2001 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • €1,649 (approx. £1,410), tenelevennine.com •

KURONO TOKYO Toki

This might well be the best variation of a salmon dial this side of a vintage Patek Philippe, in Hajime Asaoka’s very Japanese interpretation of pitch-perfect Art Deco. With a black railroad minute track intersected by indexes resembling architectural edifices worthy of Frank Lloyd Wright, and a trio of silvered grooves framing the centre, this is obsessive three handed elegance. With Kurono’s democratic view of their customer base and disdain of the grey market, you’ll feel part of a welcoming Japanese family culture the moment you click onto their website.

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THE DETAIL: 37mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve • $1,738 (approx. £1,266), limited pre-order, kuronotokyo.com •

This might well be the best variation of a salmon dial this side of Patek Phillipe 60

FRONT — ultimate microbrands

THE SACRED CRAFTS Hua Hin

Part serious diving watch, part upcycled tour de force, the Hua Hin from ecospecialist watch designers Sacred Crafts is the poster child for sustainable horology. The 44mm bronze beast offers a satisfyingly chunky diving bezel along with 300m water resistance, with a dial and middle braclet links made of reclaimed wood. The result is a watch that has an inbuilt patina and one that will gather more with age as the metal matches the wood. It’s not for everyone of course, but it’s one of the most individual bronze divers out there.

THE DETAIL: •

44mm bronze case with 300m water resistance •

ETA 2824 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve •

$1,599 (approx £1,165), thesacredcrafts.com

ATELIER JALAPER AJ002-B

The DB5 is one of the most iconic cars ever built and for good reason; it defined Aston Martin as the ultimate British motor. They’re also pretty damn rare, which makes Atelier Jalaper’s AJ003-B all the more impressive. It combines a dial made from the bonnet of an authentic DB5 with a layout taken directly from a dashboard and a black PVD case. Sure, it’s a little on the nose but between the distinctive, industrial-automative style and the historical slant to its materials, this is one plenty of petrolheads might want to invest in.

THE DETAIL: 40.5mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • Miyota 8285 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €1,150 (approx. £985), atelierjalaper.com •

FRONT — ultimate microbrands

CULEM

Portal GMT Gold

While the not-so-humble world map is a staple of worldtimers, that doesn’t mean that the more pared-back GMT – arguably the more useful traveller’s complication – can’t make plenty use of it. Case in point, the Portal GMT Gold with its multi-layered map. The Midas monochrome is plated rather than pure gold but the same luxurious vibe permeates, with a subtle day-night contrast and a standout red GMT hand. Paired with a tan strap, it definitely looks pricer than it is. Given that CuleM is a distinctly eco-friendly watch brand, owning one of these also goes a little way towards saving the very world on its dial. Which is nice.

THE DETAIL: 40mm gold plated case with 50m water resistance • ETA 2893-2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £1,195, culemwatches.com •

MONTA WATCH Noble

There is a good reason the blue fumé dial Monta Noble has appeared on a quite a few lists for Oyster Perpetual alternatives. It belongs there for the easy sliding clasp adjustment alone, smooth enough to make a few Swiss managers twitch. The svelte case is an understated piece of classic elegance, contemporary but with that smidgen of sports we love the Swiss for. You will struggle to find a tighter-toleranced three-link bracelet, and the slender case is but a perfect frame for the deep blue dial art. THE DETAIL: X 38.5mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance • Monta Caliber M-22 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $1,760 (approx £1,280), montawatch.com

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FRONT — over £1,500

O V E R £ 1,5 0 0

THE DETAIL: • 38,3mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 automatic chronograph movement with 48-hour power reserve • $2,165 (approx. £1,575) on beads of rice bracelet, nivadagrenchenofficial.com

NIVADA GRENCHEN

Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (Orange Boy 86006A)

While the name might sound slightly schizophrenic, as Swiss brand re-awakenings go, this is on the money, and to the millimeter. The second charm of their twin register formula is that NG caters to our desire for personalisation, with a wealth of choices in dial, hand and register colours, complemented by a delightfully wide array of straps. The brash Orange Boy has a cool, maximalist sixties chronograph dial and tangy orange sub dials, making it stand out in a sharp portfolio of time travel from a reborn Nivada Grenchen.

FRONT — ultimate microwatches

SCHOFIELD WATCH COMPANY Strange Lights

THE DETAIL: 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £3,595, limited to 29 pieces in each colour schofieldwatchcompany.com •

Giles Ellis of the Schofield Watch Company has created a small universe of very British perfection in Sussex, from wristwatches to accessories and straps. The Strange Lights SWC SL-1 is infused by an obsessive and thoughtful view of details, in the Schofield language of a sizeably ergonomic case. The SWC SL-1 has a British-made case of satin-smooth vapour blasted titanium, framing a luscious red dial. The strong graphic language of SWC makes the Strange Lights collection delightfully hard to categorise. With the brushed gold hands and a burgundy outer track with red arabics lending a raffish elegance to the bold case, this might be a hard one to get your hands on.

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The Schofield Watch Company have created a small universe of British perfection in Sussex

ZERO WEST H1-P3708

Designed in a waterside studio in picturesque Emsworth on the south coast and boasting melted-down scrap from a WWII Hurricane downed on Essex’s Foulness Island, this is about as British as a watch can be. Inspired by the instrument panel of the titular fighter, the H1-P3708 is pure Zero West fare, separately forged lugs and all. Powered by a Swiss-made ETA automatic – adjustable via a crown designed to imitate a joystick firing button – this is one for the mechanicallyobsessed. If you spend your weekends tinkering with vintage aircraft, this is a necessity for your wrist. THE DETAIL: 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • ETA 2824 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £2,995, zerowest.watch •

FRONT — over £1,500

ZELOS Mirage 2

Catch the slightest reflection, and the the Mirage 2 case will draw you in with its eclectic wood grain structure, the shimmering organic patterns appearing almost otherworldly. The bronze-yellow tinged metal is like nothing we’ve seen, a titanium damascus case based on a technique akin to the ancient art of forging swords. In the dark skeletonised dial, a gold-filled Zelos logo at 3.30 pops deliciously, and there’s a red crescent marking the last day of the vast eight day power reserve. The Mirage 2 represents a big step for the company while offering exemplary value for what is a unique calibre within the skeletonised pilot’s watch. The future of the pilot’s watch is from Singapore and it’s forged from titanium damascus.

THE DETAIL: • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • La Joux Perret Twin barrel hand winding movement, with 8-day power reserve • $4,900 (approx. £3,570), limited to 25 pieces, zeloswatches.com

THE DETAIL: 38mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £2,100, anordain.com •

ANORDAIN

Model 1 Green Fumé

There’s a good reason anOrdain are one of the only brands outside of Switzerland or Japan making their own vitreous enamel dials; it takes a certain kind of madness to attempt. Fortunately it’s worked out and the Glasgow-based watchmaker has some of the finest dials around – including this painfully gorgeous watch in shimmering green fumé with funky gold indexes and minute track. The depth of colour here is sublime and where most of the value is, even if the rest of the watch is understandably streamlined. Stunning.

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The Glasgow-based watchmaker has some of the finest dials around 65

FRONT — ultmate microbrands

BRELLUM

Duobox LE.8 Chronometer

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A microbrand watch at an accessible price with Breguet overtones sounds like a big ask, but it’s the bread and butter of Jura-based Brellum. While their debut colletion, the Duobox was initially a no-nonsense chronograph, in the latest from the independent brand ups the ante with a full calendar. It’s a serious piece of watch, with a beautifully decorated Valjoux 7751-based calibre, a DLC coating and an incredibly handsome anthracite dial, all for a price tag that shines a less-than-flattering light on similar, much pricier timepieces. The downside? There’s only 15 of these beauties worldwide.

THE DETAIL: 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Horage K-TOU manual-wind movement with 120-hour power reserve • £5,975 (VAT not included), horage.info

HORAGE

Tourbillon 1

A tourbillon? In a microbrand guide? Are we mad? Well, when it comes in well under the 10K mark, I reckon it qualifies. If you’re expecting cheap Chinese tat here then you’re in for a surprise as the movement at the core of the Tourbillon 1, the K-TOU, has a full five-day power reserve, a silicon escapement more efficient than the usual Swiss brands and a 43-piece cage weighing just 0.29 grams. In fact, the calibre’s specs are almost too good to be believed. Pair that with a partially skeletonised grid dial and plenty of customisation options (including COSC certification), this is one of the most exciting microbrand projects we’ve ever seen. Put simply, it’s nuts. Unfortunately, by the time you read this, Horage will no longer be taking orders. Will it return? Finger’s crossed.

THE DETAIL: 41.80mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • BRELLUM BR-751-TCMP Automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve • CHF3,350 (approx. £2,865), brellum.swiss •

NEUCARL

Sept Mai Platinum

Precious metals and microbrands don’t often go hand-in-hand; the prices tend to be a touch to prohibitive. And yes, while the Sept Mai from Neucarl is certainly expensive, $25,000 (just over £18,000) for a full platinum, 41mm watch. It’s not just the price that’s refreshing either; while the Sept Mai is definitely a dress watch, it’s sectioned dial and retro-futuristic style aren’t the sort of things you’d normally see at a gala. But they should be. Paired with a COSC-certified ETA 2892 movement, it’s one of the few platinum-cased watches out there that feels… well, fair. THE DETAIL: 41mm platinum case with 50m water resistance • ETA 2892 calibre automatic movement with 50hour power reserve • $25,000 (approx. £18,000), neucarl.com

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FRONT — smooth operators

Edited by SAM KESSLER

WINDING UP THE AUTOMOTIVE SLANTED WINDERS THAT’LL KEEP YOUR HOROLOGICAL ENGINES TICKING WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE. You wake up, bleary-eyed and head out to an appointment so early that you need to check your emails en route to find out what exactly it’s all about. About half an hour later, as you’re checking your watch to see just how late you’re going to be, you notice that your watch is still telling you it’s 11PM the previous evening. So, either time’s broken or you’ve forgotten to wind your watch. You my friend, need a watch winder. There’s plenty of discourse over whether a winder is good for your watch or not. On the one hand, some say that it means your watch is going through more wear and tear than it would if you let it wound down. On the other, that continual movement stops the lubricants from settling and therefore keeps the movement operating smoothly over time. The bottom line though is that if you hate having to keep all your watches wound by hand, you could probably use one. But which winder to use? The relatively straightforward contraption runs the gamut from simple boxes with a singlespeed winder to multi-directional masterpieces with more settings than a space-age microwave. There’s just as many styles too, whether that’s classical in the vein of a 19th century writing desk or sleek and stealthy. Yet with automotive season fast approaching – both figuratively and literally – how about a winder to reflect the obsession for all things mechanical us watch lovers share with the petrolheads of the world? From racing red leather to aerodynamic shells, the choice is yours. Or at least, your wallet’s. Because let’s be fair, if you’ve not tried a watch winder before, you might want to dip your toe in first. Here then are the coolest automotiveinspired watch winders for every budget.

Vintage Vibes with a Modern Engine:

WOLF BRITISH RACING GREEN SIX-PIECE WATCH WINDER The classic combo of gold and green is as appealing as ever in winder form, particularly when said green echoes the golden age of British racing in a way that should see Sir Stirling Moss make an appearance. Though the vegan friendly, pebble-grained leather is a distinctly modern twist. It’s contrasted with fluted borders to

the winding apertures ripped straight off a Rolex Cellini for an inimitable dash of glamour. Equipped with space for six watches, the winders themselves are among the most advanced out there, despite the classical surrounds. WOLF’s are the only winders which count the exact number of rotations rather than an estimate. They also let you factor in the power reserve left in the watch, meaning there’s no risk of overwinding. Pair that with more customisable settings than a Savile Row tailor and you have one of the best winders around. £2,829, wolf1834.com

FRONT — smooth operators

Stripped Back & Sporty:

SCATOLA DEL TEMPO ROTOR ONE RED

If you need a winder for a single watch, it’s more likely that you want a place to show off your grail piece than actually needing to keep it wound. Most of us can keep up with winding a single watch. Whatever the case may be however, Scatola del Tempo’s entry-level single watch winder is a fitting vessel in which to preserve your piece, especially if you happen to have the matching Rolex. Pepsi Cola GMT Bezel aside, this high octane take on the Italian brand’s seminal Rotor One is draped in racing red livery with a tactile, soft touch finish as suited to a classic car interior as a winder. Mechanically it’s one of the simpler winders out there but for good reason: the streamlined, battery powered winder will last you for up to three years without any need to replace. If there’s a better travel partner for your grail watch, we’ve yet to find it. €495, shop.scatoladeltempo.com

Lightweight, Carbon-Clad Performance:

RAPPORT LONDON FORMULA DUO WATCH WINDER

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If there’s a better travel partner for your grail watch, we’ve yet to find it

Pure Mechanics on Full Show:

INFINITE ITALY UNICO 3

Wish your geartrain could wind your watches? Wish granted, courtesy of Italian studio Infinite Italy. The UNICO range is a collection of 1-, 2- and 3-watch winders where the box has been stripped away entirely, right down to a cog turning at the base of each watch. For the mechanically minded, this is it. Of the set, the 3-watch version

has by far the most impact, with all three cogs and the watches on them turning in unison. It’s mesmerising. There’s an LCD display on the back and a remote control for changing the various settings, but honestly the UNICO feels like it should be hand cranked. Sure, the lack of a box means dust can get to the watches, but the unobstructed view is worth it, especially if you have a Royal Oak-level bracelet. €2,290 (approx. £1,960), infiniteitaly.com

Nothing says high performance quite like carbon fibre, the material de choix of hypercar designers and adrenaline junkies the world over. Or in this case, arguably the UK’s most innovative creator of avant garde watch winders. While the Formula Duo doesn’t have quite the same visual impact as, say, Rapport’s Time Capsule, it’s a good deal more practical and, let’s be honest, accessible – and I mean that in both price and style. The regular pattern of the carbon fibre will suit most modern interiors nicely. Lined with soft velvet and equipped with an LCD screen to adjust not only the winders but the interior lighting, you can choose how you display your perfect pairing of, ideally, modern racing chronographs. And of course, you can lock it. After all, for everyone bar you, looking is better than touching. £795, rapportlondon.com

FRONT — editor’s choices

Solid, Stately and Spectacular:

MJJ EXCLUSIVE ARMOURED IN LUXURY SAFE Ever demanded the watch winding equivalent of a bulletproof RollsRoyce? This is the one for you. Custom watch and jewellery specialist MJJ Exclusive know what their clientele need and apparently it’s a (up to) 12 watch winder surrounded by a sleekly designed, heavy-duty sheet of armour. Hard and impenetrable as the outside is though, the inside is lined with sumptuous quilted leather straight out of the nearest Roller. Tech-wise, this safe has it all. Each of the 12 winders can be individually set, allowing you to customise the winding speed of each of your watches. When we’re talking about high complications – as befits a safe of this stature – that genuinely matters. Sealed by a six-digit pin code with a million possible combinations and the kind of attention to detail you expect from the jeweller and watch customiser to the elite, this is about as high-end as a winder can get. And as heavy. From £23,400, mjjexclusive.com

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Impenetrable as the outside is, the inside is lined with sumptuous quilted leather

Bold, Brash & Aerodynamic:

MODALO WATCH WINDER SPORT 4

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This is a tour de force more unmissable than a blacked-out Lamborghini

While this intense watch winder might well look like a crosssection of the next land speed record holder, it’s aerodynamic shape is more sculptural than practical. That said, the fourth generation of Modalo’s incredible Sport winder pushes the technical envelope, with a fingerprint lock, touch screen display and the kind of ease of use you would expect from any decent dashboard. Designed for four watches – with plenty of space between them for the perfect aesthetic display – it’s specifically kitted out to hold heavy timepieces, meaning big, chunky chronographs with equally macho bracelets. It’s definitely not the kind of watch winder meant to blend into the background; this is a tour de force more unmissable than a blackedout Lamborghini. £1,047.90, modalo.com

Style 74 /

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Pair this season’s best

delivers cool in a

clean-cut watches with

greener package

the fashion to match

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Separate the good from

the greenwashed in our

EDITED BY

SHANE C. KURUP

sustainable fabric guide \

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Stock your grooming

Pack for your next trip

cabinet with these eco-

away with some planet-

pioneering brands

friendly unguents

friendly essentials

Bolster your green

credentials with a few

Fashioning a Greener Future >—> Even before the arrival of a certain viral contagion, you’ll have been well aware that our planet is facing an environmental crisis that feels as though a Nostradamus-style apocalypse is imminent. Taking a share of the blame is the fashion world, which has been called out for its heinous waste and gluttonous consumption of natural resources. But it’s not all doom and gloom. The industry is taking heed and slowly, but surely, turning over a new, greener leaf. For our sustainable issue, we present the brands and knowledge that you need to make better decisions when it comes to your wardrobe and grooming regimen. Because looking good shouldn’t cost the earth.

Oracle Style — Sep.21

Gucci’s Off The Grid

STYLE — wardrobe champion

PACKING TIPS

Karen Tierney, excellence centre manager at Jeeves of Belgravia – dry cleaner to HRH Prince Charles – shares her wisdom for keeping your backpack in fine fettle

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

1— To clean the outside of a backpack, wipe it over with a microfibre cloth dampened with a mild washing liquid solution and leave it to dry naturally 2— For the interior, remove the framework and turn it inside out, unzip pockets and use a soft brush and vacuum to remove small debris trapped in corners 3— If you’re not using your backpack for some time, store it in a soft pillowcase to prevent dust and oxidisation, and stuff it to maintain its shape

BAGGAGE RECLAIM

Gucci’s Off The Grid collection delivers the house’s eclectic cool in an altogether greener package

>—> Given that the relentless churn of the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the world’s carbon emissions, haute houses and highstreet stalwarts alike often find themselves in Greenpeace’s bad books. But with many column inches being given to the topic of late, things are starting to change from the very top.

Along with a growing slew of style powerhouses, Florentine label Gucci – helmed by design wunderkind Allesandro Michele, whose jazzy, retrospective-modern designs are often seen on the backs of fashion’s great and good – has taken heed of the planet’s plight and is aiming to redress this balance with its Off The Grid collection. “When globally-recognised luxury

brands take a stand on the need for fashion to benefit people and planet, people listen. It is powerful when a world-leading house makes a stand”, says Naomi Bulliard, Head of Strategy at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion. Each piece in the line up is made from ECONYL® – a recycled nylon generated from salvaged seaborne plastics, from old fishing

nets to PET bottles – in short, the sort of stuff that has Sir David Attenborough weeping salty tears. The material has a two-fold benefit for the Blue Planet: not only does it help reduce those hazardous rafts of plastic detritus floating around the Seven Seas, but it can itself be recycled time and again. “Unlike virgin polyester, ECONYL® can be recycled many times while maintaining the same quality, so it has continued use. Its production requires less water and chemicals than virgin nylon, making it better when used for garments requiring the properties of a synthetic fibre” adds Bulliard. It seems high fashion’s most idiosyncratic house has literally turned one man’s trash into another’s treasure. Gucci Off The Grid backpack £870, gucci.com

STYLE — style manifesto

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Green Brigade It’s a given that the fashion industry thrives off the new and now while the planet pays the price, but until the time comes where we all embrace naturism, we’re still going to have to restock our wardrobes. What we can do, though, is make better choices with our clothes. Here are the brands you need to know that are that are helping to clean up fashion’s act, one thread at a time.

Eco Warrior

>—> Since founding his label in 2008, Christopher Raeburn has been something of a poster boy for the sustainable fashion movement. Bringing the idea of utilising surplus cloths to the wider gaze of the industry, Raeburn is known for using superfluous military fabrics, including dissected parachutes and camouflage wear, refashioning them into utilitarian apparel that has

commando swagger in spades. The latest RAEFOUND collection consists of genuine decommissioned ‘digicamo’ clothing and accessories from the U.S. Army, which completely eliminates the environmental impact of making a garment from scratch. Little wonder that American Vogue once wrote, "remember the four R's – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Raeburn". raeburndesign.co.uk

Five-a-day Footing

>—> For all their comfort, synthetic-laden trainers aren’t the most ecologically sound choice of footwear, which is bad news if you’ve got more Nikes than Imelda Marcos has Chanel pumps. But Amsterdam-based sneaker house Mercer is aiming to do things differently, making its statement kicks from materials manufactured from the by-products of crop harvests, including corn and grape skins. But perhaps the most original is its Piñatex trainers, which are made of a leather formed from the discarded leaves of pineapples, bought directly from farmers in the Philippines. While they’re obviously not going to help improve your five a day count, they’re certainly a novel way to add a bit of ecological clout to your stride. merceramsterdam.com

>—> Along with Ikea, lingonberry sauce and a capital where a session at the bar will cost you the equivalent of a month’s rent, Sweden is famed for its eco-awareness. So it should come as little surprise, that Asket – one of the greenest labels of the moment – hails from the Nordic nation. Following a traceability model that informs the consumer of the exact ‘cost’ of a garment from field to finishing table, down to the amount of water used in its manufacture to the CO² emitted during its shipping, its mission is to make us think twice about how much we really need in our closets. While a cynical capitalist might think this is merely a shrewd PR stunt, the brand has put its money where its mouth with its Revival Program, which allows customers to return their used garments when they’ve reached the end of their life for a reward in cold, hard cash and which the brand then recycles or repurposes. This is style at its most sincere. asket.com

Full Circle

>—> Some brands are content with making small, but significant steps towards greener practices, but for Frankie Phillips of TOBEFRANK, its all about being fully committed to the cause. Synthetic Azo dyes, used in 70% of mass-produced garments contain compounds linked to cancer and birth defects and these remain in the fibres of clothing – and on your skin – no matter how many times your gear goes on a full cycle in the drum. TOBEFRANK’s organic range is made using natural dyes derived from food waste, including olive leaves and walnut shells, keeping the chemical nasties off your back. In addition, its latest Made in London range, produced in the brand’s Stoke Newington factory from

excess fabric, linens and buttons found idling under cutting tables of fashion houses, is also flying the flag for the green contingent. And these aren’t substandard rags either – think silks, cotton twills and wool-blends woven in storied Italian mills. The factory is also approved by Sedex – the body responsible for ethical conditions for garment workers – so you know there’s been no toil over your threads. What you’ve got is a brand that is truly making a sea change towards a greener fashion future. tbfuk.com

Salvage Squad

Iconic Upgrade

>—> You might know Baracuta for its G9 Harrington jackets which have graced the shoulders of some of menswear’s biggest clotheshorses – most notably Steve McQueen, Daniel Craig and of course, James Dean in Rebel Without A Cause. While the brand still makes the iconic staple today, it’s put a more ethical spin on its offering with its outside-the-box collaborations. Its latest venture with BYBORRE – a Dutch firm leading the way in highly engineered sustainable fabrics – is a case in point. The three-piece collection consists of limited edition 3D-tartan gilet and G4 and G9 jackets that have been cut from Sinterama Newlife™ – a recycled performance polyester derived from PET bottles gathered in northern Italy. The end result is garments that score highly for style originality, combining the brand’s classic aesthetic with a modern, planet-first ethos. baracuta.com

Enduring Threads

>—> While you probably think of linen as a summer fabric, it’s actually ideal for year-round wear when you consider its weight, in the same way you’d gauge the warmth of a sweater by its heft. Flax London – named after the plant that yields the fibre to make linen – is aiming to highlight the ecological advantages of this wonder cloth. It uses zero plastics in its production model and its hardy, pure-linen garments are cut from light, mid and heavyweight Northern Irish cloths, coloured using a cold-dyeing technique that minimises water and energy usage. Unlike cotton, which takes river-draining surfeits of water to grow and manufacture, flax plants thrive on natural rainfall alone, which reduces pressure on the world’s precious H₂O resources. An added bonus is linen’s natural antibacterial qualities, which also means you can cut back on the weekly wash. flaxlondon.com

STYLE — clean cut

CLEAN CUT Styling by SHANE C. KURUP

Photography by TOM PETTIT

The worlds of fashion and horology might be habitually showy by nature, but sometimes less is more. These are the pared-back, sustainably made tickers to wear with this season’s equally clean-cut apparel.

STYLE — clean cut

Kaleos Robledo sunglasses £170, kaleoscollection.com Mfpen double-breasted grey pinstripe jacket £390, brownsfashion.com HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE BASICS pleated grey T-shirt £175, uk-store.isseymiyake.com Mfpen classic grey pinstripe loose-fit trousers £220, brownsfashion.com Tateossian slate pyrite sterling-silver signet ring £330, tateossian.com Tateossian classic sterling-silver bangle £259, tateossian.com Edward Green Charles Arno calf-leather loafers £965, edwardgreen.com Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Steel silvered dial 40mm automatic watch £10,000, bulgari.com

STYLE — clean cut

Nomos Glashütte Metro Neomatic 1165 41mm Update automatic watch £3,500, nomos-glashuette.com

STYLE — clean cut

Mr P. striped cotton-poplin shirt £165, mrporter.com Bleue Burnham The Window Tough Glamour recycled sterling-silver necklace £410, matchesfashion.com ANOTHER ASPECT raw-silk shirt £190, matchesfashion.com TOBEFRANK recycled-polyester overshirt £70, tbfuk.com HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Solid Pleats recycled-polyester trousers £335, uk-store.isseymiyake.com Tateossian Brushed black rhodium-plated sterling silver T-bangle £245, tateossian.com

STYLE — clean cut

Baume 10590 42mm Ocean RPE automatic watch £1380, baume-et-mercier.com

STYLE — clean cut

Kirk Originals James cellulose acetate sunglasses £225, kirkoriginals.com Sunspel forest-green corduroy Harrington jacket £385, sunspel.com Commas Art Deco-check silk-blend shirt £300, matchesfashion.com Tateossian rhodium-plated sterling-silver box chain £145, tateossian.com Filippa K Lucian moleskin trousers £180, filippa-k.com Roscomar light-grey Court LWG suede and sugarcane trainers £185, roscomar.com

STYLE — clean cut

Rado True Square Over the Abyss 38mm ceramic automatic watch £2,460, rado.com/en_gb

STYLE — clean cut

Gant open-knit striped cotton sweater £175, gant.co.uk

STYLE — clean cut

Panerai Luminor Marina ESteel™ Verde Smeraldo 44mm automatic watch £7,600, panerai.com

© Shot on location at Manhattan Loft Gardens, 22 International Way, London, E20 1GQ, manhattanloftgardens.com GROOMING: Dior Backstage, Boy de Chanel, Korres, Lab Series, Recipe for Men. Model: Hasan Ali at MiLK Management FASHION ASSISTANT: Sam Kessler

STYLE — clean cut

Tateossian 18k white gold aquamarine necklace £1,500, tateossian.com SIRPLUS cream organic-cotton resort polo shirt £95, sirplus.co.uk Nikben Flower Power swim shorts £69, nikben.com Troubadour khaki-green Adventure Weekender holdall £435, troubadourgoods.com Hereu Salva suede sandals £210, hereustudio.com

STYLE — grooming cabinet

1-Botanical Booster >—> We’re often told that a plant-based diet is the key to health and happiness, so it stands to reason that slathering botanical unguents on your skin will pay off. Plant Apothecary’s Be Well Body Wash harnesses the antiseptic and energising properties of eucalyptus and bergamot to pep-up your immune system during your morning ablutions. The brand itself is protecting the landscapes its natural ingredients are sourced from by following a climate-neutral business model, alongside a thumbs up from the Forestry Stewardship Council and PETA for its sustainable packaging and bunnyfriendly formulas. £20, thegroomingclinic.com

2-Flower Power

>—> We’re all familiar with the post-shave tingle that follows a session of taming the face fuzz, but with its blend of orange blossom and clove flower oil and sandalwood, Aesop’s Moroccan Neroli Shaving Serum will help you soothe the sting. As you’d expect from a brand that has been a standard-bearer for eco-awareness, its plastic packaging is formed from 97% of recycled kerbside waste and its preference for screw caps over plastic pumps reduces reliance on polymers. In addition, it’s also just introduced a refill scheme and is working towards making 100% of its packaging recyclable, reusable or compostable by 2025. Blooming marvellous. £27, thegroomingclinic.com

4 Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Squeaky Clean Thanks to Blue Planet II and Ms Greta Thunberg, the dialogue surrounding our impact on Mother Earth bears more weight than ever. While many conventional grooming products and their packaging are produced from less than wholesome sources, some brands are pioneering a greener approach to keep you and the planet looking as nature intended.

3-Greek Beauty

>—> Along with philosophy, the Olympics and Ouzo, the Greeks have given the world many useful things. So when a Hellenic grooming brand releases a revolutionary new unguent, it’s worth taking note of. Korres’s topical Velvet Skin Drink is formulated in the brand’s zero-waste lab powered by renewable energy, and harnesses the natural benefits of skins and seeds of grapes grown on Santorini’s mineral-rich volcanic soil. It’s loaded with Resveratrol – the magical antioxidant found in wine – and hydrates, brightens and blurs imperfections, to ‘transform your skin into velvet’, the brand claims. Slap this on and knock back another glass of Retsina and you might just wake up an Adonis. £36, feelunique.com

4-Regal Kiss

>—> Chemist and perfumers D.R. Harris has been stocking the bathroom cabinets of the great and the good since 1790. This natural menthol and cocoa butter lip balm comes in a hand-engraved hallmarked sterling silver-capped tub, cast by London jewellers Bunney. While it isn’t exactly a steal, it does come with a lifetime of free refills, so you can kiss goodbye to chapped lips and those nasty throwaway plastic chap sticks forever. We’d expect nothing less from a toilette brand that comes by royal appointment. £6.50, drharris.co.uk

STYLE — grooming cabinet

5- Hirsute Ambition

>—> We all know that Ms Shania Twain wasn’t impressed by the chap who carried a comb up his sleeve “just in case”, but she might have been more forgiving had he been wielding a Re=Comb. A relatively new kid on the grooming block, the brand aims to create ‘beauty from waste’ with its vibrant hair rakes made entirely from recycled plastic derived from discarded containers. A win-win when it comes to the state of our green and pleasant land – and your barnet. £16, re-comb.com

6-Clean Cut

SCRUBBING UP

Avoid facescubs that have microbeads in their ingredients list. These plastic particles enter the water system and are ingested by marine life

>—> A weekly shop in the organic aisle of your local supermarket might make light work of your wallet, but being an eco-warrior in the bathroom doesn’t require a re-mortgage. Bulldog, which offers a wide range of men’s grooming essentials, is making waves with its eco-first approach to personal care that best of all, won’t dent your savings. Its recently released glass razor is made from recycled beer bottles and comes in entirely sustainable and recyclable packaging, which means you’ll finally have a good excuse to feel less guilty about cracking open another frosty one. £15, bulldogskincare. com

7-Organic Splash

>—> A stroll through the perfume section of duty free might leave you with a slightly fuzzy head on account of the synthetic ingredients found in many modern scent formulations. But Gallic grooming brand Typology takes a more holistic approach to everything it does and its fragrances are no exception. Vetiver – a fragrant grass commonly used in men’s colognes to give them a rich, woody, smoky character – found in this Cèdre Vétiver eau de parfum in its purest form. As with all the brand’s products, it comes in 100% recyclable packaging that has been designed and shipped to have the smallest carbon footprint possible. Spritz it on and smell au naturale. £32.80, typology.com

WOKE APPROACH Steven O’Neill, founder of The Grooming Clinic and self-confessed eco-warrior shares his top tips for getting green with your grooming

1— Don’t slap on too much product at once – start with a pea-sized amount to just coat the skin in a thin layer before adding more 2— Use a loofah or sponge with your body wash – this will make one-to-two pumps stretch to cover your entire body 3— Look for packaging with recycling symbols, like the mobius loop or seedling logo, so you can dispose of it with minimal impact

STYLE — material gains

UNFORTUNATELY, nobody’s going to save the world by buying new clothes. The fashion industry’s environmental sins are now very well documented: it accounts for 10% of the world’s carbon emissions and 20% of its waste water, while 85% of new textiles end up in landfill within a year. Change is inevitable, not least on the part of fashion-conscious consumers who want to know that looking good and doing good aren’t mutually exclusive. Sustainable fashion may be the buzziest of buzzwords, but it’s also one of the most contentious. Modern fashion is greenwashed with carefully-worded marketing and small, virtue-signalling collections that are as see-through as a Harry Styles’ shirt. This much we do know: the most sustainable clothes are the ones you already own. Second-hand is better than buying new and repairing is better than replacing. But when you do buy new, there are ways to do it that genuinely complement your eco credentials, as well as your new-season wardrobe. It’s just that you first have to navigate a quagmire of claims and counter-claims about which fabrics truly are sustainable. “Brands increasingly have moral obligations to be transparent about their sustainability developments and to educate their audience,” says Naomi Bulliard, Head of Strategy at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion. “But lack of standardised definitions in the industry means that eco-friendly, sustainably sourced, environmentally conscious could mean so many things, which makes it [hard] to feel like anyone has a full understanding of how, with what and by whom the products are made.” The good news? We’ve done some homework on your behalf, with the help of experts like Bulliard and pioneers in the industry who are determined to make the green trend stick.

Words:

Ian Taylor

Material Gains Making fashion sustainable starts with the threads we wear, but how do you tell the truly responsible from the greenwashed plastic? Here’s an expert guide to style with real moral fibre

ORGANIC COTTON VS LINEN They may be light on the skin but these are two of the heavyweights of sustainable menswear design. Conventional cotton, one of the most commonly-worn fabrics in the world, is the subject of several inconvenient truths when it comes to the environment. The world’s extensive cotton crops lead to soil erosion and loss of habitat, and also use 6% of all the world’s pesticides and 16% of all the world’s insecticides. A single cotton T-shirt requires 2,700 litres of water and, if it’s been treated with chemicals (as many on the high street are) it’s not biodegradable. So what should we wear instead?

Linen, says Callum McCall, co-founder of Flax London, which uses the fabric exclusively. “Linen is a low-impact fabric that lasts forever and only gets better with wear,” he says. “When it’s grown in northwest Europe, as 83% of the world’s output is, flax requires nothing more than natural rainfall to grow. It also has very few natural enemies, so herbicide and pesticide usage are nominal. The cherry on the cake is that it’s a zerowaste crop. From animal fodder and paper to linseed oil and high-quality yarns, every part of the plant ends up being used.” Linen is also durable, and doesn’t need to be washed as regularly thanks to its natural wicking abilities and anti-

STYLE — material gains

bacterial properties. It’s also easily recycled. But that’s not to say that cotton has to be blacklisted completely. Frankie Phillips, a sustainability consultant and founder of TOBEFRANK, recommends it for basics. “If I do shop now, I go to anything with natural fibres,” she says. Organic cotton usually means cotton produced without the use of fertiliser or pesticide. It typically uses less water, too, although McCall notes that its lower yields mean that it couldn’t meet the current demand for cotton products. Some also complain that pure cotton products don’t last long compared with those that use virgin plastics. Phillips says that’s a mistake. “We have this idea as consumers that something that lasts a long time, that lasts forever, is a good thing,” she says. “Actually, it’s not a good thing because it’s going to outlive us and outlive the generation after us, and the generation after that. Some people say they don’t like cotton because it doesn’t last very long. Personally, I think that’s a great thing. It’s better than polyester T-shirts sitting in landfill for hundreds of years.”

RECYCLED, RECOVERED AND REUSED FABRICS Circularity is the ultimate endgame for sustainable fashion, where everything used to produce a garment is either biodegradable or recovered and recycled into something new. Otherwise, landfills will only keep growing. Fortunately, a number of brands are already embracing the use of offcuts and recycled fibres. British designer Christopher Raeburn pioneered the use of decommissioned military stock and even parachute fabrics to create new garments. More recently, luxury Italian label Zegna has begun utlilising excess fabric from its production line for its #UseTheExisting collection. “The UK discards around a million tonnes of textiles per year – all going to landfill or being incinerated, which is unacceptable,” says Henry Hales, founder of Sirplus. He started his label creating boxer shorts made from what would otherwise have been waste off-cuts from shirtmakers. Now, it sources long rolls of

high-quality deadstock, often from Italian mills, to create a broad range of contemporary menswear. “Our limited edition pieces are often made from our pick of really special surplus finds, these are fabrics we become obsessed with and we get excited to use. We might just have enough for 20 jackets for example. So when they’re gone, they are really gone.” “The amount that is wasted on the cutting table is absolutely horrendous, and it gets thrown away,” adds Phillips, whose label TOBEFRANK recovers the waste of other brands to produce new pieces. “It’s perfectly good fabric that we use but recycling is a solution to the problem right now. It’s not the future. We shouldn’t be producing so much waste in the first place.”

“Recycling is a solution to the problem right now. It’s not the future. We shouldn’t be producing so much waste in the first place”

CAN DENIM BE SUSTAINABLE? This most ubiquitous of fabrics has borne the brunt of eco shaming, but there are moves to make it better for Mother Earth. Some of the industry’s leading names are working with the MacArthur Foundation on the Jeans Redesign initiative, which sets out a blueprint for what sustainable jeans should look like. The main problem with denim is that it’s extremely thirsty. In 2015, Levi’s found that a single pair of its jeans took 3,781 litres of water to produce. Add to that pesticides, synthetic dyes and chemicals and a surfeit of electricity and it’s easy to see why your faithful blues have such a bad eco rap. And, as two billion pairs of jeans are produced each

year, the industry is under pressure to reduce its impact. “I don’t buy jeans but we do make them,” says Phillips. “Our jeans don’t have any elastane in them. If you’re getting regular high-street denim, there’s going to be a lot of elastane in there, which will stay there forever, long after the rest of the material has disappeared. Your rivets will stay as well. It’s better to go for products that are stitched and metal-free”. Levi’s and others are looking for ways of producing jeans that reduce their impact on the planet. Its Made and Crafted line, for example, produces jeans and trucker jackets made from recycled denim, and its Wellthread collection prioritises plant-based and ultrasonic dyes, plus organic cotton and cottonised hemp. Similarly, in 2019, Wrangler produced its first Indigood range of denim, which eliminates the need for water during the dyeing process by replacing it with a foam-based technology instead. The process, which has also been adopted by brands like Lee, also reduces the energy and chemicals required by 60%.

TENCEL, ECONYL AND THE NEW NORMAL OF SUSTAINABLE FABRICS In recent years, a new generation of fabrics has materialised to lighten fashion’s footprint by utilising waste from other industries. Lyocell, one of the best-known, is made from pulped eucalyptus trees. Silky soft and highly absorbent, it’s as useful for activewear as it is for your shirt collection, and because eucalyptus grows quickly without irrigation, water usage is around half what’s required for cotton. ECONYL® – similarly hyped – is made from recycled synthetic polymer fibres derived from waste that would otherwise be destined for the tip. “It’s a recycled nylon fibre regenerated from industrial plastic, synthetic waste fabric and discarded fishing nets. The process creates new nylon yarn, turning waste into a resource to replace virgin polyester,” says Bulliard. Additionally, ECONYL®, unlike polyester, can be recycled time and again without effecting its quality.

STYLE — material gains

RÆBURN’s Air Brake anorak has been crafted from drogue parachutes, which are used to slow air and spacecraft during test-launch operations

STYLE — material gains

Levi’s recently launched Wellthread initiative (left, right and below) utilises plant-based dyes and organic fibres to lessen its environmental impact, while Marcus Rashford is one of the brand’s sustainability ambassadors Flax London’s linen jackets (bottom left) put far less strain on water reserves during their production than equivalent cotton garments

STYLE — material gains

TOBEFRANK (pictured) recovers the waste of other brands to produce new pieces, while RÆBURN (right) has pioneered the use of decommissioned military stock to create new garments

STYLE — material gains

ENDURING THREADS

Now that you’re armed with the knowledge to choose the right clothes, Callum McCall, co-founder of Flax London, explains how to extend the life of your green garments 1— Launder Less Rotate pieces and wear something four or five times before washing it. Hanging garments outside in the open air after wearing and steaming will help keep them fresh 2— Gently Does It When you do wash something, make it a delicate wash. Use a cold-water setting, low spin cycle, and detergents that are phosphate, preservative and enzyme-free

Founded by Henry Hales, SIRPLUS (above and left) uses deadstock and organic fabrics, often destined for landfill, to make its considered designs Linen is a hardy material (below right) that requires less laundering than cotton due to its antibacterial qualities

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3— Make Do and Mend Invest in clothes worth salvaging – it encourages you to fix damage over throwing something out. Local tailors can breathe new life into items with cost-effective repairs

STYLE — material gains

These fabrics are not, however, immune to greenwashing. While it helpfully repurposes waste, ECONYL® is still a plastic fibre that can take centuries to decompose. It will also shed microplastics from your washing machine just as polyester does. “As a substitute to virgin synthetic fibres, it does make sense, and leading brands such as Stella McCartney, Speedos and Rapanui use it, but it isn’t regenerative to the planet as such, compared to items made with locally sourced natural fibres” Bulliard explains. “Ultimately we do need to move away from materials that do not biodegrade and that cause microfibre pollution.”

IS ‘VEGAN’ SUSTAINABLE? “Using ‘Vegan’ when you’re talking about plastic winds me up to high heaven,” says Phillips, of one of the common criticisms of vegan collections. Just because no animal products have been used, it doesn’t mean it’s good for the planet – polyester can be vegan – so it pays to do some research before you decide to buy. “Plastics – for example PU ‘leather’ – are sometimes called vegan leather but in fact it is polyurethane (virgin plastic), so if you do want to buy fake leather, at least make sure it is recycled so you do not add more plastic to the problem,” says Pim Dresen, founder and designer at sustainable sneaker brand, Mercer. Plant-based fabrics are a very good alternative to traditional leather, he says. “Even though they aren’t all the same, they’re very interesting if you want to avoid animal cruelty and plastics altogether. Look for certificates – there are certain certificates like Leather Working Group if you are buying leather, or Blue Sign or GOTS or GRS if you are buying vegan or recycled.” Stella McCartney and Hermes have both announced the introduction of a mushroom-based leather into its collections, while Nike is among the brands to have trialled Piñatex, another faux leather made from pineapples. But again, it pays to do your homework, says Philips. “If it says it’s produced from food waste, what does that actually mean? Can it be recycled? Can it be reused? Can it biodegrade?”

she says. “We nearly used compostable corn starch bags when we started but it turns out you can only compost them in an industrial environment. Nobody’s going to go to find an industrial composter. It really needs to be home compostable.”

THE FUTURE: CLOTHES GROWN IN A LAB? The climate emergency is forcing fashion to look in its many mirrors, but it’s also inspired a generation of fabric scientists, who are devising new ways of producing clothing that sound like something right out of science fiction. Japanese biotech company Spiber Inc, for example, spins its own synthetic spider silk and produced a Moon Parka with The North Face in 2019. Likewise, British techwear label Vollebak has produced a biodegradable T-shirt made from algae.

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The field of biofabrication looks at ways of producing fibres with nature’s own factories. Using bacteria, algae, yeast and fungi, scientists are finding ways of cultivating fibres in a lab, minimising the need for the extensive land and water usage that underpins so much of the fashion industry’s ecological impact. Proponents claim we’re at the beginning of a new age in material science, but Phillips cautions that the same checks and balances will be needed to ensure a genuinely sustainable future. “We’re trialling T-shirts at the minute that are made from gone-off milk, and others from nettles and soy beans,” she says. “But we’re finding that the energy to produce that fibre is so high that we’re struggling to keep our carbon footprint down.”

STYLE — kit bag

Green Miles As those of us with itchy feet eagerly eye the traffic light system, this month might just be the time to make a great escape. Offset your air miles with some planet-friendly packing essentials.

Edited by

SHANE C. KURUP

1/ Swatch Orack Bioceramic £108, swatch.com 2/ Kirk Originals Bobby cellulose acetate sunglasses £260, kirkoriginals.com 3/ Sealand Gear recycled nylon wash bag £40, mrporter.com 4/ SMR Days Malibu organic cotton trousers £325, mrporter.com 5/ AWAY Bigger Carry-On aluminium suitcase £435, awaytravel.com 6/ F_WD bio-based recycled XP4 Line Up trainers £349.99, zalando.co.uk 7/ Harago Jacquard upcycled linen shirt £230, matchesfashion.com 8/ Montblanc Eco Sartorial travel wallet £625, montblanc.com 9/ Levi’s recycled denim jacket £160, levis.com

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STYLE — future classic

WORKING IT WELL Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Lee Goldup, menswear buyer at brownsfashion.com shares his tips for wearing work wear the right way 1— Matchy Matchy Coordinating colour and fabric is a strong look reminiscent of the ‘90s – a decade that’s making a comeback on the style front 2— Smart Strategy A workwear jacket can easily be polished up when paired with tailored wool trousers or a dress shirt – it’s a look that will see you through anything 3— Style Amalgam Think about mixing high and low together – vintage workwear with contemporary designer pieces can really look sartorially fluent

EXCESS STRATEGY ‘If it ain’t broke don’t fix it’, is a mantra that bears much weight in menswear, but SIRPLUS’s revamp of a style staple makes a worthy case for change

>—> While a life of sweated labour isn’t something that most of us aspire to, the enduring appeal of workwear would suggest that the garb that goes with it, is. What was once uniform of the sailor, navvy and factory hand is now the wardrobe wingman of Notting Hill hedge funder and Birmingham barista alike, for the same reason

it was worn by those brothers of brawn: hardy fabrics, a proliferation of pockets and easy fits are practical merits that speak for themselves. So how do you improve on a tried and tested genre that has withstood ever-shifting trends and tastes? Well, given that £85 billion worth of unused fabric goes up in smoke

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every year, pulling on a piece made from cloth that would have gone to the incinerator is one of the best ways to up your work wear game. “Knowing that your piece was made with purpose from material that would have been chucked out is a big part of the appeal”, explains Henry Hales, founder of SIRPLUS, which as its name

suggests, has built its business utilising offcuts and leftover bolts of cloth that have fallen foul of the mass production line. This isn’t any old tat, either. Its cream check chore jacket, for example, is made from an Italian deadstock cotton-blend, which could just as easily have spent its life as a snazzy suit on the back of a Milanese dandy. “It feels particularly versatile as the premium Italian textured weave fabric makes it breathable for warmer temperatures, but you can wear it well into autumn over a jumper”, explains Hales. Add to that the requisite glut of pocket space and a soft but not scruffy cut and you’ve got an enduring staple that feels as virtuous as an honest day’s work. SIRPLUS cream check chore jacket £225, sirplus.co.uk

STYLE — sunspel james bond

Words: SAM KESSLER

JAMES BOND AND THE MAKING OF AN ICON The story and style of Sunspel’s famous Riviera Polo

WHATEVER YOU THINK of the films – and let’s be fair, they’re a bit hit and miss – there’s no denying that James Bond has style. Far from clandestine, the world’s most recognisable superspy always seems to be the best dressed in the room, on the beach or at the centre of a series of explosions. The version of the world’s least secret agent that springs to mind is him immaculately attired in a tuxedo, whether that’s a classic notch lapel number or Daniel Craig’s penchant for a shawl, either way the classic 007 look. Yet when he’s not winning an unrealistic hand at poker over a few Martinis, it’s not like his level of sartorial savvy drops along with the formality. Even off-duty, he’s still Bond, James Bond, and part of that look is thanks to Sunspel.

Daniel Craig as James Bond offered a new suave look thanks to Bond’s change in wardrobe, which utilised Sunspel’s clothes from his debut in Casino Royale like the classic Sunspel polo here

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Casino Royale was a turning point for the Bond franchise in that it was good. And not just James Bond good, but genuinely a fantastic film, in large part because of the new type of agent Daniel Craig brought to proceedings, a darker, more brooding, more brutal one. And costume designer Lindy Hemming had the enviable task of dressing the new 007. So, with a focus on impeccable British quality, she went to Sunspel for all his vests, T-shirts and underwear, the basics done brilliantly. It’s what the homegrown brand does best, after all. Yet there was one piece where off-therack simply wouldn’t do. That was, of course, the Riviera Polo Shirt. The Riviera wasn’t new for 2006, not by a long shot, dating all the way back to the 1950s and British jetsetter (and grandson of Sunspel’s founder) Peter

STYLE — sunspel james bond

The result was a wonderfully breathable yet no less smart polo, perfect for the heat of the south of France, which was aptly christened the Riviera Polo

The result was a wonderfully breathable yet no less smart polo, perfect for the heat of the south of France, which was aptly christened the Riviera Polo. Cut back to 2006 and the version that Craig wore wasn’t exactly the same. It still used the Q75 material of course, but Hemming decided to update its silhouette to make the most of her well-toned star. She slimmed it down, shortened the arms and adjusted the chest: all of these elements combined for a much more tailored look, less sporting practicality, and more modern wardrobe staple. Thus, the modern Riviera Polo was born. Since then, the polo has come in a variety of classic colours, slotting into Sunspel’s portfolio of pared-back yet immaculately made pieces. It might be surprising however to learn that it’s never actually been reproduced in the grey melange that made its debut in Casino Royale. Well, to celebrate Craig’s final outing with a licence to kill in No Time to Die, Sunspel is re-releasing a trio of archival variations of the Riviera Polo. The trio includes the Spectral Grey and Sky Diver Blue, released for Spectre and Skyfall respectively, along with that original Casino Royale grey. If you, like most British men, dream of emulating Craig’s take on James Bond, this might be your best chance. At the very least, you’ll come to understand why the Riviera Polo has become a must-have for any well-dressed gent, be they superspy or not.

The stylish ethos of Sunspel is also very much in evidence with its T-shirt, as much as it is with the brand’s polo shirts

Hill. He appreciated the tennis-adjacent style of a classic polo shirt but not as much the stifling material they were often made of. So, like anyone with the drive and means, he created his own – out of a lightweight mesh known now as Quality 75.

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FRONT — man of influence

As editor of a watch magazine, it’s pretty obvious I like a good timepiece or two. I’ve also been known to indulge in a dram of something aged, Scottish and expensive. But for me, it’s always been one over the other – namely watches over whisky. For Chris Beccan, the man behind Bexxon, the blog dedicated to his twin loves of fine timepieces and liquid gold, the answer’s not so simple. “I’ve been into watches as long as I can remember”, he says over our inevitably virtual chat on the subject. “There was a market near where we lived with a guy that sold old Casios and stuff for a quid a pop. It wasn’t exactly fine watchmaking, but I loved them!” With a start like that, it’s understandable that Chris’s tastes, horologically speaking, don’t stick to the prestige. In fact, the first watch that really got him into the rarefied field might not be quite what you expect. “A Swatch! My mum bought me a greendialled Swatch with a matching strap and clear plastic case. It was so cool! I still have it actually, but the case has gone kind of opaque. Not sure I’ve ever seen anything age like that.” The path to whisky was remarkably similar. “When I used to go to clubs I’d order a JD and Coke as standard. One day I though I’d give it a go without the Coke and thought “hey, that’s not bad.” I still preferred it with Coke, but that was the start of my love of the stuff.” While he’s still one of the most down-toearth collectors I’ve met - from both angles - Chris has since graduated far from the lowly realms of mass-produced American stuff and into the Highlands of Scotland. In fact, his collection is nothing short of spectacular, enough that when I asked him which of his 50-odd collector-level bottles was his favourite, it felt like Sophie’s Choice. But harder: “Ah, I can’t pick just one!” So, after giving him the leeway to narrow it down to three, I got instantly jealous at the shining pinnacle of his collection: a Macallan Exceptional Single cask. They’re rare enough that I’ve never tried one myself, but “you have to! I’ve been lucky enough to try three of them, they’re all amazing and completely different. I have to thank Tudor for one of those; they let me try any whisky I wanted so I picked the best!” Then there’s a Yamazaki with no age statement, a rarity simply because you could only buy it directly at the Japanese distillery. It’s a serious whisky though. It is a bit

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

CHRIS BECCAN

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS WITH SWATCH AND JD, THE WRITER AND BLOGGER HAS FOUND A SYNERGY BETWEEN WHISKY AND WATCHES, AND CAN NOW BOAST AN ENVIABLY CURATED COLLECTION

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FRONT — chris beccan

unusual by Chris’s standards, who generally sticks to Scotch. “I decided early on to focus on Scotch. I’m tempted by other whiskies, sure, but if I didn’t have that focus I’d lose track on what I’m collecting, what I have already and what I’m keeping my eye out for.” The third liquid was one decision too many. Still, focus is a tact he’s taken with his watches, too. Surprisingly to a guy that has 15-20 watches at any one time and still doesn’t consider it too many, Chris’s relatively humble collection of 10 seems

Chris has Tudor to thank for one of his Macallan Exceptional Single cask bottles (above, right), which understandably remains the pinnacle of his collection

“Time’s an ingredient in both fine watchmaking and whisky, and both take incredible patience to make. You can’t rush it or you end up with Bell’s or Teachers” 114

surprisingly small. But it’s not: it’s just well-curated, with some serious vintage Rolexes in the mix, including a relatively recent Sub he got at a steal. As for what he’s currently got his eye on: “I love the Black Bay 18K. It’s ridiculous, an 18Kt diving watch but it’s so nice with the green and gold.” So, the big question is why? Why do whisky and watches go together so well? What’s the synergy there? “For me, it’s all about time and patience. Time’s an ingredient in both fine watchmaking and whisky, and both take incredible patience to make. You can’t rush it or you end up with Bell’s or Teachers, something not worth what little time you did put in.” And what of prestige? Both have huge followings of collectors clamouring for the best of the best. What would, for example, be the equivalent of Patek Philippe in the world of Scotch? “Patek? Macallan, for sure. They’re rare, fantastically made and have some incredible expressions that any collector would consider a grail piece. For someone like Rolex it’d probably be … . And Bells? Swatch maybe? “Nah, Swatch have way more taste than that. I wouldn’t want to say which brand would fit…” Follow Chris over at @chrisbeccan and @BEXSONN for even more pairings of fine watches and exceptional whiskies and some truly phenomenal photography of both.

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £549, uk.mondaine.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

MONDAINE EVO2 AUTOMATIC

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FRONT — mondaine

Back in 1944, while the rest of the world was blowing itself to ever smaller bits, Swiss engineer Hans Hilfiker had a much different problem: how to make a clear, readable and modern-looking railway clock. Sure, it was less life and death, but by God, the Federal Swiss Railway needed to run on time! The design he came up with became one of the most iconic Swiss exports of the era. The Official Swiss Railway Clock with its stark black-on-white look and bold, red, lollipop second hand became an international star and put Hilfiker on the map who, fun fact, went on to develop the concept of the fitted kitchen. The clock was his high point. The point is that the 1944 design is, to this day, instantly recognisable and in no small part thanks to Mondaine. The brand may have been founded a good 40 years after Hilfiker’s masterpiece, but their faithful tracing-paper interpretations of the clock have been at the core of their collection throughout their history. Honestly though, if you look at their watches over the years, it’s hard to pick out one model from the other. The problem with faithfulness to one design is that you pigeonhole yourself a bit. They made a bit of a break for it with the Helvetica smartwatch, but not enough for it to still be around in any meaningful way. Instead, they’ve been focusing on the mechanics, upgrading various elements across their collections and generally improving their watches as a whole. Which is perfectly fine by me: why change a formula as winning as the railway clock? The most recent result of those efforts is the Evo2 Automatic. The Evo2 has been around for a little while now, with its gently-rounded case and magnifying sapphire crystal and maintains Mondaine’s signature Bauhaus minimalism. Previously though, it has always been backed up by a quartz movement. That’s fine for the price tag, but an automatic has been long overdue. The upgraded movement in question is the workhorse Sellita SW220-1, a perfect fit for a functionalist piece like this. You can see it through the sapphire caseback if you really want to but it’s nothing you won’t have seen before. It’s reliable, accurate and affordable, everything you want from a third-party movement. Perhaps more importantly, Mondaine have made a few quality-of-life changes to the Evo2. For one, they’ve upped the curvature around the bottom of the case where it curves into the sapphire caseback. It’s not too noticeable from the front, but makes the watch feel a touch smaller than its 40mm and looks lovely in profile, especially with the bright red Mondaine crown. The lugs too have been given a little more shape, helping the Evo2 sit better on the wrist. It did so well enough before

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With the Evo2 Automatic, you’re getting an absolute classic that feels and looks great on the wrist for a price that makes it a no-brainer

but now it’s an absolutely gorgeous watch to wear, especially on the mesh bracelet, even if I do prefer the look of the leather, upping the black-and-white contrast. Among all the various Bauhaus-inspired brands out there – mostly German – Mondaine’s always been the purest. Perhaps the least creative over the years, but faithful all the same and there’s no denying that with the Evo2 Automatic, you’re getting an absolute classic that feels and looks great on the wrist for a price that makes it a no-brainer. At £549 on the strap, £599 on the bracelet, it doesn’t exactly have an investment price tag, but if the last 77 years are anything to go by, it’s a design as timeless as any Patek. £549, uk.mondaine.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 41.05mm or 36.5mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Oris 733 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £1,600, oris.ch

HANDS-ON WITH THE

ORIS

AQUIS DATE UPCYCLE

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FRONT — oris

The Swiss watchmaker updates their flagship diver with a plastic dial dredged from the depths. Upcycling is everywhere right now. It’s not too much of a surprise; the planet’s all but on fire at the moment and every little bit helps. But it’s still a surprise to see just how many watchmakers have begun using would-be landfill trash and ocean waste as design elements. There was Ulysse Nardin with the Diver NET concept watch of course, with both Alpina and Christopher Ward taking similar, plastic-based case materials further. On the other hand, there’s Panerai with their sleek eSteel, using recycled metal this time. Then of course there’s a host of upcycled, vegan or otherwise sustainable straps, a whole sub-genre of wristwear to themselves. What very few brands do though is upcycled a dial. Enter the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle. The choice of an Aquis was an obvious one. You want to draw attention to ocean waste, you do so with a diving watch, it’s a central tenet of eco-slanted watches. The ocean waste in question here is PET plastic, the stuff that’s getting into most of the fish we eat at an alarming rate, which forms the new dials. PET plastic comes from thousands of sources in almost as many colours, as you can clearly see from the swirl of melted-down plastic here. It’s random, abstract and eyecatching in the extreme, enough that it’ll likely put some classicists among you off. I have to say that I’m still not quite used to it myself. On the flipside, if you don’t like the one we’ve shot here, you might like another one. Because the dials are indeed random, with each individual watch will end up looking remarkably different. Same general aesthetic of course, but with different colours and moods. It reminds me a lot of the Bamford Watch Department collaboration with Black Badger a while ago where they used multi-layered strata of supercar paint to create unique swirls in a series of TAG Heuers. That was a little more curated of course and less random – they actively looked for the best finishes – but they were also limited. These upcycled Aquis models are not. On the wrist, the Upcyle is the same as any other Aquis, a solid, comfortable diver available in a decently sized 41.05mm or a diminutive and downright lovely 36.5mm. The smaller one looks a little too much like a jewellery piece, some schizophrenic mother-of-pearl, while the larger one gives the dial space to breath. It’s one of the few times I’d recommend the larger.

While the Upcycle might not be singlehandedly cleaning up the oceans, it does show that there are more inventive ways to use these recycled materials 123

Either way, the rest of the watch is pared back, with a grey ceramic diving bezel, steel bracelet and signature Aquis crown guard. It’s all very streamlined and equipped with an Oris 733 with a 38-hour power reserve. Oris have made the Upcycle a core part of their collection so hopefully, fingers crossed, we’ll see it with the calibre 400 at some point in the future, too. The more watches that movement goes in, the better. While the Upcycle might not be single-handedly cleaning up the oceans – Oris would have to make a few hundred thousand more dials a year before it’s a proverbial drop in said oceans – it does show that there are more inventive ways to use these recycled materials. I’m still not sure how I feel about them myself – the longer I wear it, the more I’m beginning to appreciate the dial’s unique nature. But whether you think they look funky or funkin’ ugly, these dials are a cool idea, done in an interesting way. What more can you ask for? £1,600, oris.ch

CULTURE — drink it in

HAMBLEDON PREMIÈRE CUVÉE

TAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE ROSÉ 2007 You can never go wrong when it comes to Taittinger and their 2007 Comtes de Champagne Rosé continues to showcase why they have the reputation they do. A must-discover for pink sparkling lovers. Strawberries, lime, roast coffee and cacao hit your nose with a soothing red and black berry palate. This rosé sits aging for 10 years before it even sees light, a testament to the complexity that winds up in each Grand Cru-driven bottle. £142 from The Finest Bubble

An emblem of English skill when it comes to wine. If you’re a fan of champagne then this is going to blow your mind like you never knew possible. Turns out our soil and climate is very similar to champagne and this aged English sparkling (most of the grapes coming from the 2014 harvest) packs a punch of delight. The blend of Chardonnay (67%), Pinot Meunier (22%) and Pinot Noir gives orange blossom, ripe nectarine and baked apple on the nose. Upon sipping, tarte Tatin, croissant and a creamy peach complexity. One of my favourites. £43 from The Wine Society

The Spirit Of An English Summer Words: Aidy Smith

It’s been a funny old month hasn’t it - the rain doesn’t know whether its coming or going and we can’t decide whether we should keep the windows open or closed. Alas, do not fear, my Editor’s Picks this month contain a little something for all occasions. From sparkles to spirits and everything in between, here’s what should be on your tipple radar.

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CULTURE — drink it in

CASA DRAGONES BLANCO These guys create another one of the ultimate sipping tequilas and arguably one of the ‘purest’ looking bottles I’ve seen too. I love to use these as water bottles once I’ve finished the nectar inside. Small batch, 100% blue agave which has been seven to nine years ripened to perfection in the rich lands of the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt. The water is pretty neat too, beneath the earth’s surface in hundreds of 70-metre natural aquifers straight from the Volcano of Tequila! Perhaps that’s what gives it such a pure and distinct taste. Certainly one of the best tequilas I’ve ever tasted. £90 from hometipple.com

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If you are looking to set down some Burgundy for the future, this is where you should be looking

CHÂTEAU DE POMMARD CLOS MAREY-MONGE TRIO 2019 This trio of exceptional Burgundy Pinot Noirs stem from vines aged between 20 and 80 years old. Vines which have stood the test of time and, as a result, become the source of some of Burgundy’s finest and most expressive wines. Each wine derives from smaller parcels of vines and aged for 18 months in 20 to 25% new oak barrels. If you are looking to set down some Burgundy for the future, this is where you should be looking. Having tasted these in their youth, there is a colossal opportunity for them to grow and showcase everything we love about Burgundy and more with a fruit-forward palate that hits all the right spots. Ranging from £73 to £137 from chateaudepommard.com

(FOOD & DRINK PAIRING BOX)

ROYAL BELUGA CAVIAR & LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT Food and wine are a match made in heaven and there’s nothing quite like caviar and Champagne. This week I give you the ultimate pairing, Royal Beluga Caviar (50g) is considered one of the finest caviar in the world. Sustainably sourced with so much elegance, it works wonders alongside the dry sparkling beauty that is Louis Roderer Brut. This is the ultimate gourmet fix: once you try it, there’s no going back! £275 from dukeshillham.co.uk

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CULTURE — editor’s picks

CRYSTAL HEAD VODKA PRIDE EDITION THE BROLLACH CRAFT IRISH WHISKEY The third release of one of Ireland’s most exciting and innovative whiskey companies is already sweeping up awards. Securing a ‘Master Medal’ from Spirits Business, this gem emits a nose of mocha and marmalade with a creamy honey palate, apricot jam and sticky ginger brioche. This double distilled gem is part of an ongoing series of quality-driven timeless releases that showcase the very best of Irish history and prestige. Craft Irish Whiskey is producing some of the best whiskey in the world and people are beginning to notice. One to watch out for and to add to your collection before it’s gone! Only 661 bottles have been released. £4,700 from craftirishwhiskey.com

This rainbow wonder is a special edition raising funds for a variety of LGBTQIA+focused charities. The bottle itself contains the original blend crystal head has become famous for. Locallysourced Canadian corn is distilled four times before being filtered through Herkimer diamonds. Even the water used derives from the pristine natural sources of Newfoundland. The result is one of the purest vodkas you’ll sip, silky smooth with a hint of sweetness and vanilla. Drink well, do good! £100 from thewhiskyexchange.com

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One of the purest vodkas you’ll ever sip, silky smooth with a hint of vanilla

THE GLENALLACHIE 30-YEAR-OLD BATCH 1 Only 2,000 bottles of this Scotch gem exist in the world. Batch 1 is a meticulous marriage between 1989 and 1990 vintage Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso hogsheads and puncheons with a small quantity of Chinquapin virgin oak casks intertwined for good measure. At 48.9% it’s cask strength, all natural colour and non-chill filtered ensuring only the best quality goes into each bottle. Rich mahogany in colour you’ll be introduced to a fruit cake, raisin and honey-mocha nose. The palate offers layers of dark chocolate apricot cake, figs, treacle and orange zest. I’m drooling just writing this. £475 from theglenallachie.com

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FRONT — considered champers

Eco-Friendly

Fizz

Words:

Sam Kessler

For most of us city dwellers, the environment is important as a concept, even if we’re not exactly getting hands-on with the soil under our feet. Yet there is one thing we can all appreciate that has an unbreakable connection to the environment: Champagne. Every time you enjoy a glass of fine fizz, you’re tasting the environment in which it was produced, the distinctive terroir that lends its character to that particular bottle. The two are inseparable, with the landscape, soil quality and climate all contributing to a unique flavour profile. Needless to say, that makes the environment – and sustainability, the theme of this issue – of critical importance to any champagne house. None however are doing as much to ensure the longevity of the land as Champagne Telmont.

CHAMPAGNE TELMONT IS DOING THEIR BEST TO PRESERVE THE TERROIRS THAT KEEP THEIR WINES UNIQUE

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FRONT — considered champers

Telmont as a house was founded in 1912, so they’re no novices. Since 2017 however, the Épernay-adjacent maison has been almost single-mindedly pursuing their ambitions to become a fully-organic, eco-friendly Champagne – and they’re well on their way. Currently, 72% of the Telmont estate’s nearly 25 hectares of land is certified organic, with the rest midway through conversion. Telmont’s partner vineyards too are pursuing organic status, encouraging biodiversity across the landscapes of the region,

Chateau Telmont are on a mission to become a fully-organic, eco-friendly Champagne but without sacrificing any of the features that have made their name as a house offering a unique range of products

Telmont’s partner vineyards are pursuing organic status, encouraging biodiversity across the landscapes of the region 130

preserving species and taking the terroirs back to their natural beauty. It’s a massive campaign and one that Champagne as a whole, so often over-agriculturalised, can really use. That said, organic alone does not a sustainable operation make. To complement their preservation of the landscape, Telmont will be doing away with all outer packaging (the stuff that nobody really needs and that every Champagne house insists on plying us with) and bottles made from 85% recycled glass. Backed by a commitment to 100% renewable energy sources (including an on-site solar power plant), a fullyelectric fleet of vehicles and an overhauled logistic chain with due consideration to its carbon footprint, Telmont are stepping up and doing their part to preserve the delicate balance of their terroir. So, what does this all mean for the champagne itself? Other than knowing that what’s in your glass was made with love both for the wine and the environment that produced it, nothing. The Réserve Brut is as rich and beautifully balanced as ever and will continue to be, a masterful blend of seven different vintages brought together in one bottle. Telmont is living, breathing proof that a change in the way a Champagne is made, a more considered, thoughtful and sustainable production, can be achieved while preserving the distinctive character that made their wine so renowned. For now, they’re the only Champagne house on this self-imposed mission on behalf of the environment and, for that alone, deserve a toast. Let’s hope that soon they won’t be alone. Champagne Telmont will be available to buy exclusively from Selfridges from September, selfridges.com

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ PARK ROW

77 Brewer Street, W1F 9ZN

Marvel vs DC is comicbook fans’ favourite debate and now Park Row are tipping the scale in DC’s favour by bringing cuisine into the mix. The Soho-based establishment features five DC-themed restaurants and bars including The Iceberg Lounge and Pennyworth’s bar. The centrepiece of this immersive dining experience is The Monarch Theatre, an 11-course set menu and show that has dishes such as a ‘poisonous’ mushroom, scallops and edible jewellery. The Monarch Theatre experience, £195, for more information visit parkrowlondon.co.uk

It hasn’t been long since the hospitality industry was finally able to reopen fully after restrictions were lifted and many bars and restaurants are finding their feet once more. So whether you’re keen to support your local spots or are visiting London for the first time in over a year there are plenty of new and exciting dining places ready for you to explore. Here’s a look at some recent and future openings that we’re keen to try out, including a few hidden gems tucked away in unexpected locations.

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EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS

CULTURE — food & drink

← BENJAMIN’S BAR AT HARVEY NICHOLS

109–125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ For a refined drinking and shopping experience, you can visit the recently opened Benjamin’s inside Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge. The whisky and cocktail bar has over 100 whiskies available by the dram or bottle, with highlights being a particularly rare 50-year Glengoyne and a Tamdhu 50 Year Old. The bar is named after the founder of Harvey Nichols, Benjamin Harvey, and aims to promote the elegance of the brand’s menswear products in a casual manner. For more information visit harveynichols.com

The bar is named after the founder of Harvey Nichols, Benjamin Harvey, and aims to promote the elegance of the brand’s menswear ↓ HAUGEN

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Due to open later this month, Haugen is set to be one of the largest restaurants in Stratford with a capacity in the region of 544 customers across multiple floors and terraces. The German Alpine-inspired restaurant is being run by D&D, the same group behind many other high-end eateries like Coq D’Argent and Skylon in Royal Festival Hall (which I mention because it was really nice when I ate there pre-lockdown). While a menu has yet to be announced as I write, it’s sure to be modern and refreshing. For more information visit danddlondon.com

↑ EKSTEDT AT THE YARD

3-5 Great Scotland Yard, SW1A 2HN Niklas Ekstedt is one of the most famous Swedish chefs of modern times, appearing alongside the likes of Heston Blumenthal as a judge on the TV cooking competition Crazy Delicious. He is best known for his bold Scandinavian

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flavours and it is this cooking that he aims to bring to London with his first restaurant outside of Stockholm. The restaurant will be situated in the Great Scotland Yard Hotel Book now at ekstedtattheyard.com

CULTURE — food & drink

↓ MADHU’S AT THE DILLY 21 Piccadilly, W1J 0BH

Madhu’s of Mayfair is a well-established name in luxury Punjabi and Kenyan-inspired food, founded by Sanjay Anand MBE over 40 years ago. However, they have recently unveiled their newest restaurant tucked

inside 5-star The Dilly Hotel, which promises to be their most luxurious eatery yet. The menu is full of classic favourites including nyama choma and Madhu’s machi, which are flavourful lamb and seabass dishes. Book at table at thedillylondon.com

→ SKYLIGHT PECKHAM

120 Peckham Hill Street, SE15 5JT Rooftop bars and restaurants are some of the most relaxed and lively venues in London. There’s just something about eating really high up with superlative views that makes for a good time. Peckham already has its fair share of such dining spots and now it’s got a new one: Skylight Peckham, operated by the same team as the successful Skylight Tobacco Deck. The Peckham location offers small, sharing dishes including staples like roast beef on sourdough. It’s the kind of place you want to hang out at after work. Find out more at skylightbars.com

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Madhu’s have recently unveiled their newest restaurant tucked inside 5-star The Dilly Hotel

FRONT — redefining travel

A BRAVE NEW WORLD – THE RACE Words:

Lewis Nunn

TOWARDS WITH THE PANDEMIC HOPEFULLY BEGINNING TO ABATE, TRAVELLERS NOW HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO TRAVEL INTERNATIONALLY WHILE CHANGING THEIR HABITS TO WORK IN TANDEM WITH THE ENVIRONMENT

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FRONT — redefining travel

A brave new world is looming on the horizon – especially true for travel, as more and more countries migrate onto the green list and we feel our toes itching to traipse off into the sunset. Yet there seems to be an elephant in the room, as while our lavish voyages across the globe were on pause, it cannot be denied that the environmental recovery we witnessed was truly astonishing. So as the borders open up once again, should we reconsider how we travel? Well, I’m going to investigate some of the brands asking that question in the race towards more sustainable travelling – Greta Thunberg, eat your heart out. Let’s start with one of the first travel companies in the world to declare a climate emergency – Exodus Travels. They have since crafted their planet promise climate action plan which includes halving their carbon footprint by 2030 and rewilding 100 square metres of land per passenger. Through the nature and carbon corridors project, the aim is to rewild 5,000 hectares of the Italian Apennines in five years, promoting biodiversity and creating a rich and extensive carbon sink. The project will create five nature corridors, enabling an increase in the endangered Marsican bear population, plus recovery of wolf and lynx populations. The Exodus Travels Foundation was also launched to improve life in hard-to-reach places, by inviting their local tour leaders, operator partners and accommodation suppliers to apply for small grants in order to kickstart local initiatives from emergency food parcels in Nepal to Masai women’s empowerment in Kenya and a café made out of plastic waste in Indonesia (exodus.co.uk). Award-winning jet charter service, Victor, however, claim to be the world’s first carbon negative aviation business as part of its mission to define a more environmentally-responsible future for private jet charter. Yes, carbon negative private aviation. Who’d have thought? Its owner, Clive Jackson, was named aviation’s most surprising sustainability champion by Forbes and every flight is double carbon offset as standard which means that 200% of the flight’s CO2 emissions are offset through naturebased carbon reduction projects across the globe. Flyers are encouraged to match Victor’s contribution to these carbon reduction projects and fly 400% offset.

Exodus Travels has launched a campaign to rewild 5,000 hectares of the Italian Apenines (top). The BREEF Underwater Sculpture Garden (below), partnered with Rosewood Baha Mar in the Bahamas offers an eco-friendly diving experience

Through Exodus Travels’ nature and carbon corridors project, the aim is to rewild 5,000 hectares of the Italian Apennines in five years, promoting biodiversity and creating a rich and extensive carbon sink 137

FRONT — redefining travel

The forests and wetlands around the Sani Resort in Greece, designed to preserve its surroundings, have been awarded best sustainable hotel by Marie Claire

Last year, Victor protected reforestation projects across the globe which cumulatively cover more than twice the size of Manhattan and more than 60 times the size of Monaco through its 200% carbon offset programme (flyvictor.com). Meanwhile, Europe’s leading private jet airport, Farnborough, is the first business aviation airport to achieve carbon neutrality. It introduced Sustainable

The world of cruising is also acknowledging its climate footprint with a radical new approach taking to the waves 138

Aviation Fuel reducing flying emissions by up to 80% (farnboroughairport.com), proving that flying doesn’t necessarily need to be as harmful as it’s made out – provided you stick private, of course. The world of cruising is also acknowledging its climate footprint with a radical new approach taking to the waves. Introducing MS Roald Amundsen, the world’s first cruise ship powered by batteries to support its low-emission engines. It features vast observation decks and a high-tech Amundsen Science Centre with touch screens, science equipment and workshops (hurtigruten.co.uk). If you prefer a little more privacy on the other hand, select yacht charters like Y.Co’s 35m Siempre have introduced electric water toys to keep the carbon footprint down, something that the charter service itself is promoting heavily (y.co). A little closer to shore, the Rosewood Baha Mar has joined a new partnership with the Bahamas Reef Environment Educational Foundation (BREEF) that sees guests take part in educational programmes centred around the Coral Reef Sculpture Garden, a habitat for marine organisms, created by local Bahamian artists and home to the world’s largest underwater sculpture and living art gallery. Its Citizen Science Programme has been developed to promote marine-life conservation where guests will have the opportunity to enjoy adventure snorkelling before planting and adopting their own coral fragment. The growth and health of the baby coral will be monitored so when guests next visit, they can see how it is progressing and helping to restore the reef (rosewoodhotels.com). Another resort causing a splash with its own sustainable director, Eleni Andreadis, is Sani Resort in Greece, awarded Best Sustainable Hotel by Marie Claire on its mission to achieve a Zero Carbon Goal. Set in a 1,000-acre ecoreserve with 7km of sandy beaches, over 20km of forest trails and 270-acres of wetlands to explore, the resort is devoted to preserving its unique natural surroundings with its Sani Green programme encompassing a 48% reduction in water use, a 80% reduction in single use plastic and community

FRONT — redefining travel

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FRONT — redefining travel

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FRONT — redefining travel

The reefs of the Coral Reef Sculpture Garden in the Bahamas have been designed to offer its visitors a unique ecologically-friendly experience through a coral planting diving experience

BREEF’s Citizen Science Programme promotes marine-life conservation where guests can enjoy adventure snorkelling before planting and adopting their own coral fragment

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outreach such as sourcing local produce and renovating hostels for unaccompanied Syrian refugee children (sani-resort.com). On the other side of the world, one of Africa’s rare not-for-profit safari lodges, Noka Camp, is taking carbon footprint tracking to a whole new level, calculating the carbon emissions of each guest from the time they leave their home to the moment they return. This figure is then converted into a donation amount for one of three conversation projects: the Community Stove Project, reducing the wood used in each household by 2.5 tons per year by donating high-efficiency stoves to the local community; the South African Reforestation Trust, a biodiversity enhancement programme planting and extending indigenous forest ecosystems and Stand for Trees, a global initiative protecting the world’s most spectacular forest landscapes and inhabiting wildlife spanning northern Zimbabwe, Kenya, Tanzania, Sierra Leone, Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, Peru and Brazil (lepogolodges.com). Finally, for travellers who want a bit more privacy while globetrotting in an eco-friendly manner, Tuscany Now & More have launched a set of sustainable villas where guests can dip into a solar-powered infinity pool, pick home-grown produce from the organic vegetable plot or cook up an Italian feast on a zero-gas electric stone-walled stove (tuscanynowandmore.com). All these initiatives are just the tip of the iceberg for an industry that needs to get as eco-friendly and sustainable as possible. There’s still plenty of work to do but, at the luxury end of the scale at least, the future’s looking green.

FRONT — green future

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C U CR RR YE PN TC OY

FRONT — accountable crypto

The Green Future of

Cryptocurrency has a bit of an image problem – and not in the way most people expect. Potential conmen and market volatility aside, there’s an intrinsic issue with mining the stuff that is at odds with not only how we think of crypto, but many societal values in general: sustainability. Let’s start with one of the first travel companies in the world to declare a climate emergency, Exodus Travels. They have since crafted their Planet Promise climate action plan which includes halving their carbon footprint by 2030 and rewilding 100 square metres of land per passenger through the Nature and Carbon Corridors scheme. At first glance, that sounds crazy. How can something that’s nonphysical impact the environment in any meaningful way? Well, the issue isn’t the various Bitcoins, Ethereums and Dogecoins themselves but in how they’re acquired. In basic terms, mining happens when a computer run a series of complicated algorithms, from which miners receive tokens, or coins, showing ‘proof-ofwork’. At first, this is easy to do, but as more blocks are generated, it gets exponentially harder to generate more. On the one hand, this should, in theory, keep inflation down for the various currencies based on blockchain technology: you can’t just print a load more of the stuff. On the other, it means that more and more computing power – and therefore energy – needs to go into it. And there’s already a lot of power going into crypto mining. Think huge blocks of servers, all dedicated to mining, all consuming vast amounts of power. The more they mine, the more servers are needed, the more power is consumed. Right now, the Bitcoin network alone is thought to consume more energy than the Netherlands. Combined with Ethereum, make it Thailand. No wonder Greenpeace no longer accept them. What might surprise you however is that it’s not just the actual mining that needs power. Exchanging cryptocurrency does, too. Verifying a transaction costs, on average, 980 kWh, about three months of power for an average home in London. Your average card payment uses 0.0006 kWh. Fortunately, there are some in the industry that would prefer the planet not burst into flames and, while Microstrategy CEO Michael Saylor and Tesla

Words:

Sam Kessler

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FRONT — accountable crypto

CEO Elon Musk’s Bitcoin Mining Council is an interesting (if vague) proposition, perhaps more salient is the Crypto Climate Accord. Started back in April by the Energy Web Foundation, Rocky Mountain Institute and Alliance for Innovative Regulations the Accord aims to achieve net-zero emissions for the entire industry by 2030. A good part of that is first calculating exactly how much energy is being used across the sector: more finding a way of regulating and holding accountable the various crypto companies dotted across the world. It’s a bold aim, so reassuring that there’s been huge support from hundreds of crypto companies around the world. Still, when it comes to the physical costs of digital mining, firms need to start thinking of new power

The Bitcoin network alone is thought to consume more energy than the Netherlands. Combined with Ethereum, make it Thailand

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solutions. Bitcoin mining firm Compass has certainly been thinking about it. While their immense energy needs can’t be met by a few turbines, they’ve gone for the next best thing and signed a deal with nuclear reactor company Oklo, which will supply them with 10 megawatts of energy. That’s enough to power up to 9,000 homes a year. As an energy source, nuclear fission makes a lot of sense. It’s efficient, cleaner than fossil fuels and, if Oklo have their way, will be booming by 2023, despite its complexity and high set-up costs. And Compass isn’t the only one that sees it. A handful of power companies – Energy Harbor Corp., Talen Energy, et al – are going the other way and adding bitcoin operations to their plants to use up any excess energy production. Of course, the nuclear option is just one of many eco-friendly initiatives coming to crypto. Bitfarms for example is a hydro-powered blockchain infrastructure company, while HIVE operates out of the renewable-rich regions of Canada, Sweden and Iceland. Whether they can scale up to meet demand in the future remains to be seen, but at least for now they’re entirely green options. All of these though, however green and wholesome they are, are in a way stopgaps. Instead, it’s crypto itself that needs to change – and as of 2022, Ethereum, the second largest offender after Bitcoin, will be leading the charge. In Ethereum 2.0, the crypto will be migrating from the old ‘proof-of-work’ concept to what they’re calling ‘proof-of-stake’. The latter essentially cuts out the advanced mathematics that necessitate server banks the size of Harrods and instead has crypto owners put their own tokens up as collateral to validate the currency. To put it in a clearer way, proof-of-work uses complex algorithms to prove they’re real while proof-of-stake has the owners do it. This change will mean that Ethereum becomes less secure at a base level than it used to be, and will require other methods to plug security holes. It will however cut energy costs by up to 99.95%, which is both fantastic for the environment and anyone that wants to get involved without plumping for one of Oklo’s nuclear fission reactors. So yes, there has been a lot of attention around the environmental impact of cryptocurrency in the last years, and for good reason. It’s genuinely mindboggling to see the numbers. But this is an industry started by innovative entrepreneurs and if any can get itself out of trouble, it’s crypto. Between switching to green energy, holding miners accountable for their consumption and perhaps changing the technology powering the whole thing, crypto might just be the financial future we were promised.

FRONT — green future

Bitcoin is already starting to adapt to a greener future, using less electricity to fulfill its customer needs

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Joseph McKenzie, CEO of Xupes

UNSUNG VINTAGE HEROES:

THE KHANJAR DAY-DATE The first watch to feature the day and date on its dial, Rolex’s elegant timepiece gives us a glimpse into an era that will never come again 147

CULTURE — khanjar day-date

The last decade has seen the horological hunt reach fever pitch. Going from a niche sport to Olympic level, the pre-owned market has been red hot with collectors looking to bag that oddball, off-the-beaten-track pick-up that nobody will have ever seen in the wild. Here we have just that – a watch that many would be forgiven for confusing with ‘just another day-date’. How wrong they would be. This is a ‘Khanjar dial’ white gold 1803/9 and here is why it’s so damn cool. Originally launched in 1956, the Day-Date, with its famous ‘President’ bracelet, was the first wristwatch to feature a date and fully spelled-out day of the week indication on its dial. The sporty elegance of the Day-Date has been enduringly popular for decades as the dressier end of the Rolex catalogue. This example however, bearing the Sultanate of Oman’s khanjar (traditional Omani dagger) and crossed swords emblem or the signature (usually seen in red) is something extra special. As the nation was being established, the late Sultan of Oman, Qaboos bin Said al Said developed relationships with Rolex through John Asprey, enabled by his close friend (and one of the richest men in England at the time) Brigadier Sir James Timothy Whittington Landon. It is believed that the inspiration for placing the Khanjar on the dial of certain watches came from Asprey himself. The Qaboos was drawn to the majesty and significance of the Royal warrants held by Asprey and wanted a similar crest to add credibility to his reign. Increasing demand for watches with the Omani emblem is understandable given the rarity of most of these watches (exact figures of production are unknown). Combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered, they do have incredible provenance. This particular watch is a Rolex Day-Date 1803 from 1974 in white gold with stunning patinated blue dial and gold baton hour markers, gold hands and a lime-green Khanjar emblem above the six o’clock position on the dial. This combination of white gold and yellow gold markers/hands is rather unusual and most likely supplied at a special request. We’ve not seen another version with this combination and the emblem is very subtle in green with the blue dial unlike other more blatant DayDate versions out there. It’s not only a watch you could wear in any setting – but an incredible time capsule of an era we won’t see again. We love it and we think you may too.

The Day-Date was the first watch to feature a date and a fully spelled-out day of the week on its dial and its use of the Sultanate of Oman’s traditional dagger, the khanjar, makes this watch feel even more special

It’s not only a watch you could wear in any setting – but an incredible time capsule of an era we won’t see again 148

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS

AN ITALIAN STRAP SPECIALIST AND A NEW BEATLES WATCH GO UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

Visconti Milano and Raymond Weil

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BACK — in focus

VISCONTI MILANO The trend of bespoke timepiece production is an interesting and occasionally controversial part of watchmaking. However, while I’d urge you to think twice about customising your vintage Patek Philippe, one area you can go to town on is the strap. Bespoke straps are a great way of adding personal flair to your timepiece without impacting its long-term value and there are few strap makers with as much variety and class as Visconti Milano. If you think about watchmaking your mind immediately goes to Switzerland and the same would be true of Italy and leatherworking. The country has a long tradition of working with the material to the highest degrees of quality and style. A heritage that Visconti Milano are more than willing to leverage in the creation of their watch straps. The Italian company produces a large selection of ready to wear straps. However, their flagship service is their ability to create a made-to-measure strap to your exacting requirements in under a month. You can customise everything from the lug width to match the timepiece of your choice to the material and colour, stitching pattern and colour and even the shape and size of the buckle holes. Or you can opt for a deployment clasp. There are so many choices available that their website has a handy visualisation function to help you plan your purchase. Honestly, you can lose hours pouring over the options, I would know because it happened to me! For material alone there are more than 20 choices, each available in half a dozen or more colours. Some standout materials have to be their exotic collection, which includes ostrich leather, stingray and shark leather. In addition to more classical watch strap materials like alligator and traditional leathers. They are also committed to sustainability with a number of vegan leather, recycled rubber and even cork straps on offer. They also have a number of handy pre-sets for more common strap types like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Rolex Daytona and IWC Pilot’s watch, which are popular watches to personalise. Speaking of personalisation, you can also have your initials engraved on the internal lining. Or, for more bespoke customisations you can contact them directly for a commission. Let’s take a look at two straps they produce, one classic and one a little more… Avant Garde. On the classic side of things, you can’t get more traditional than a matte-brown alligator strap with light brown stitching. On a watch like a Rolex Daytona, it adds a dressy sense of refinement that compliments the sporty chronograph aesthetic

Visconti Milano offer Italian craftsmanship and a range of madeto-measure products to customise your watch strap to your own specifications

Some standout materials have to be their exotic collection, which includes ostrich leather, stingray and shark leather perfectly. The ideal companion timepiece for cruising in a super car. On the other side of things, how about an electric-blue ostrich leather strap? The texture is unlike almost any other leather and in such a bold colour it’s sure to stand out. The ready-to-wear version has been designed to pair with a Breitling, which might not be the first watch you’d think of for such a novelty. However, it would add a fun twist to any timepiece and is certainly the talking point you want it to be. Visconti Milano’s production process can have as many as 47 steps depending on the chosen material and specifications, requiring expert precision and execution from the Italian artisans. Whether you want a statement strap in bold colours or something more refined and simple, they can deliver. Prices from £100-£400. Find out more at viscontimilano.com

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LET IT BE RAYMOND WEIL CEO ELIE BERNHEIM ON THE BRAND’S BEATLES LIMITED EDITION TIMEPIECES

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BACK — elie bernheim

The Beatles are, without hyperbole, the most important band in history. Their body of work is as impressive today as it was when crowds nearly brought San Francisco’s Candlestick Park to ruins with sheer sound. Needless to say, any association with the Fab Four is worth talking about. So how did this happen? How did the relatively low-key, albeit musically-inclined watchmaker land one of the biggest musical properties in history? We caught up with CEO Elie Bernheim to find out. “It started from one guy to another guy! It began with Craig Leach (Raymond Weil UK Brand Manager) having dinner with the Managing Director of Apple Corps (the multimedia company founded by members of the Beatles). They had a chat about our position in the market, other things that we’d done in the music world and the conversation just went from there. “They liked the fact that we’re a family business, an independent company that I’m the third generation at its head. We’re also at a good price point for what they wanted: we ‘re not a niche brand and we’re cheap and mass-produced. Then, perhaps most importantly there’s the human connection. We just clicked!” That click was properly noticeable in the initial Raymond Weil collaborative timepiece with the first Maestro Beatles limited edition in 2016, which paid homage to the many studio albums the band put out. It was still a surprisingly elegant timepiece – despite the band’s ‘Help’ silhouette at five o’clock. It was a big move for Raymond Weil and one that would test the nerves of any watchmaker. So was Bernheim nervous? “All the time! It doesn’t matter whether it’s a Beatles watch or a new Raymond Weil timepiece, I always feel like that when we launch something. You just never know for sure how it will be received. Sometimes you feel like it’s going to do well and then little things – the hands, the price, the case materials – tips things in another different direction.” Nerves or not, the partnership’s evidently gone well. Since that first limited-edition, Raymond Weil has produced three more equally distinctive timepieces, all of which encompass various aspects of the Beatle’s iconography and back catalogue. With Abbey Road and Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band editions now sold out, the newest version is dedicated to Let It Be. The big question, looking at the quartet of limited editions together, is how does one decide what goes into a watch like this and what doesn’t? There are so many logos, symbols, various bits of Beatles mythology that could be mixed in, it’s almost overwhelming.

The Let It Be limited edition is the fourth watch that Raymond Weil has produced with the Fab Four

“[Apple Corps] liked the fact that we’re a family business, an independent company that I’m the third generation at its head” 153

BACK — in focus

“It’s always a question of finding the right balance. We want these watches to appeal to both Beatles fans and watch fans”

“It’s always a question of finding the right balance,” explains Bernheim. “We want these watches to appeal to both Beatles fans and watch fans. It’s not just these of course, it’s the same with AC/DC, David Bowie or Frank Sinatra. It needs to be something highly original but not too much.” If that sounds a touch restrictive, it can be. As he says, “It has happened – not with the Beatles watches but it has happened – that we’ve held ourselves back a bit too much and the end consumer didn’t get the watch they were hoping for. It just means we know better for next time.” Well, this is the next time and the Let It Be edition is a big change from the previous trio. They maintained a sleek, dressy appearance from afar, only revealing the band-centric details much closer up, whereas there’s something eye-catching about the new watch from the get-go. As he puts it, “there’s a more horological aspect to the new watch, with the open aperture the shape of the UK and the fact that it’s a skeleton piece.” The aperture is more like a balloon animal version of the UK, but the contrast between the inner workings of the work with all its brass and silver and the anthracite dial makes for a very distinctive look. Otherwise, the only obvious touches are the Beatles band logo on the left side of the dial and the quartet of indexes marking four o’clock, one for each member. Indeed, while it’s more striking from afar, up close it feels slightly less on-the-nose than previous musical limited editions. As with the previous pieces, the Let It Be is a limited edition of 3,000, enough that most die-hard fans have a decent chance of getting one for themselves but not enough to devalue its exclusivity. And value it has, given that the automatic timepiece has a price tag of £1,750. Not a bad coda to a quartet of timepieces in honour of the greatest band in history.

The Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club edition has already sold out (above), while the Raymond Weil Beatles Maestro Edition (below) was the first watch they collaborated on, which proved to be a hit and led to the other limited editions

Find out more at raymond-weil.co.uk

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watches and accessories

O r a c le

RECOMMENDS

CARAPAZ

WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

ARTEM STRAPS – SAILCLOTH STRAPS

BAVARIAN WATCH – ROYAL BLUE BAVARIAN Germany has a rich watchmaking history, especially around Glashütte, but Bavaria isn’t to be discounted from the conversation either. Bavarian Watch has been singing the watchmaking praises of the region since 2018 and create a variety of stylish dials and straps for their timepiece available through Kickstarter. The 40mm stainless steel watch stands out for its large lugs, which looks great on powerful wrists without overwhelming thinner ones. We particularly like the Royal Bavarian Blue piece combined with Summer Sunset strap. €160 (approx. £135), for more information visit kick.bavarian-watch.com

It’s an old adage that if you can’t find the thing you’re looking for, build it yourself. This is the philosophy that led to the creation of Artem Straps when the founders were thwarted in their search for high quality sailcloth watch straps. Sailcloth, whether it’s made from genuine cloth or synthetic and leather alternatives, can be stiff and uncomfortable – making Artem’s focus for their straps flexibility and comfort, a mission they have more than succeeded at. Artem Sailcloth Watch strap $85 (approx. £60) from artemstraps.com

CuleM – Lights GMT Blue

Everyone needs to play a part in protecting the environment and the watchmaker CuleM has already embraced their role – planting over 15,000 trees in Madagascar with a pledge to plant 100 more for every timepiece they sell. Their watches are designed to capture their global outlook, with all of them being GMT timers depicting a vision of the world. The Lights GMT reinforces our global community by depicting an image of the world which, at night, lights up with pinpoints of light signifying the major cities of the world. CuleM Portal GMT Gold £995 available from culemwatches.com

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Carapaz is a specialised Swiss leather design company based in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the home of many top watchmakers. Their watch cases have helped to reinvent the way watches can be stored safely for travelling with the introduction of a unique rail system a few years ago, which holds the precious timepieces in place. The integrated rail technology and stand feature make them the ideal cases for travel, storage, or display, with models that can hold between one and eight watches. They’re available in a variety of colours in high-quality soft leather. Three-Watch Case £240, available at carapaz.com and thewatchspy.net

ZENEA Watches – ULA Diver Japanese Garden Blue We more often hear about the beautiful wilderness of Canada than Canadian watch companies, but Canadian watch brand ZENEA have shown enough attitude to make it work, launching their brand in the midst of the global pandemic in late 2020. The Canadian designs draw on classic watchmaking influences and are executed with Swiss-made precision, just look at the ULA Diver Japanese Garden Blue. Its 41m diameter stainless steel case is as sporty as they come and with exceptional finishing, the blue dial and sword hands compliment the diving aesthetic perfectly. They offer free worldwide shipping on all watches as well! ULA Diver Japanese Garden Blue $789 (approx. £575) from zeneawatches.com

style

Ross Oliver – Bridge-bit Loafers Ross Oliver is a fresh name to the arena of luxury footwear, bringing a new vision to the UK scene. Their high quality Cactus leather loafers and boots are both stylish and sustainable, crafted by specialist artisans in the UK. They are also finalists at the renowned Draper Awards in two categories; Best New Footwear Brand and Footwear Designer of the Year. Their superb Bridge-bit Loafers, available in multiple colours, took over a year to develop and feature a handmade brass buckle inspired by Clifton suspension bridge. Bridge-bit Loafer in Navy £240, available at rossoliver.uk

Montblanc – UltraBlack Backpack

PALACE X STELLA ARTOIS – STADIUM COACH JACKET

Montblanc might feature in Oracle Time for their watches, but watchmaking is only one avenue of their stylistic expression. The UltraBlack backpack is a suave and cool bag in black leather, embossed with Montblanc’s signature M pattern, it verges on sinister. The UltraBlack collection also heralds two new additions to the brand’s ambassador line-up including Cillian Murphy, which only furthers the dark edginess of the collection with his Peaky Blinders credentials. For more information visit montblanc.com

If you’re looking for an urban style that’s casual enough to wear to your local but still packing plenty of street cred, the Palace Skateboards and Stella Artois collaboration is the collection for you. It combines the styles of New York and London bars with a fusion of street gear and co-branded patches that are on the right side of novelty. The Stadium Coach Jacket is available in two versions emulating the US and UK styles. For more information visit palaceskateboards.com

VIVVANT - SNOWDON TAUPE MILITARY BOOTS Vivvant bring exquisite Italian craftmanship to urban London styles for the fashion-forward man in a wide selection of footwear. The Snowdon Taupe Military Boots have a robust and masculine outline that is matched by the thick rubber soles. They are held on comfortably by laces and a chunky zip. In a nod to the brand, the heels are marked with a triple V pattern. All of Vivvant’s products are designed in London and crafted in Florence for the ultimate fusion of authentic style and execution. Snowdon Taupe Military Boots £288, vivvant.co.uk

DRACO LONDON – AWAKENING CHRONOGRAPH The fresh London-based, DRACO, might just be one of the most exciting brands to look out for this year. From outstanding quality timepieces originally designed that are sure to turn heads, to finely crafted Italian luxury leather goods and other accessories such as bracelets with semi-precious stones, this brand is quickly becoming a people’s favourite. The best part is that they are just getting started. Awakening Chronograph £250, draco-london.com

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grooming

Aesop – Post-Shave Lotion The Aesop experience goes beyond that of simply applying their products as part of your routine, it begins when you first step into one of their distinctive boutiques. They seek to create an architectural experience with shops in interesting locations, such as a disused ramp leading into an underground car park, living in harmony with the street level locale. At the same time their products like the Moroccan Neroli Post-Shave Lotion have a similar level of development and thought put into them. Post-Shave Lotion £37, available from aesop.com

HEATH – SHOWER MASK Face masks are an important part of skin care that men still struggle to embrace due to the perception of them being feminine. However, Heath have created a gel based mask that integrates flawlessly into your morning routine and is steam activated, meaning you can whack it on while you wait for the shower to warm up, wash it off five minutes later and the job’s done. Helping you to remove dry skin and protect you from acne and zits with as little hassle as possible. Shower Mask £16, available at Selfridges

Battle Rhythm Beard Co. – Big Bastard Collection Battle Rhythm Beard Co. are a bombastic and characterful brand delivering vegan and vegetarian-friendly grooming products for men, with a portion of each sale going to veteran and first responder charities. Not only will their beard butter and soap make you look good but they also have great names like Spitfire and M-72 and feeling cool is a big part of style. If your beard is particularly wild, they offer The Big Bastard collection that contains everything you need to get it under control. Big Bastard £65, available at battlerhythmbeardco.com

THE OTHER SAINT – EYE CREAM

HAWKINS & BRIMBLE – SHAVING SET If you shave every day then you’ll know just how much of a chore it can be. Which is why picking up a brand new shaving kit can revitalise not only your morning routine, but your skin as well. Hawkins & Brimble is a UK-based cosmetics brand that believe a comprehensive approach to shaving is the best, supplying you with all the foams, creams and razors that you need to feel refreshed in the morning. Check them out at hawkinsandbrimble.co.uk

The Other Saint focus on an environmentally friendly approach to skin care, promoting vegan-friendly and naturally sourced ingredients. Packaged up in stylish and modern designs that mean their products won’t just make you look good, they’ll make your bathroom look good too. They also believe in pre-emptive skincare to combat the signs of aging early, with their eye cream softening the skin around the eyes to prevent wrinkles. Eye Cream £14.50, available at theothersaint.com

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drinks

BROOKIES – BROOKIES GIN Heralding all the way from Cape Byron in New South Wales, Australia, Brookies use the naturally occurring sub-tropical flora as inspiration for their gin. The distillation process involves 25 different botanicals, 17 of which are sourced from the Byron Bay area. Citrus and juniper take the lead in the tasting and it follows a classic London dry style. Brookies Gin £39.95, available from thewhiskyexchange.com

ROCKS – Chilling Stones Dictador – 2 Masters Royal Tokaji Rum

Whisky is the ultimate gentlemen’s drink and we all know there is nothing quite as suave as saying “I’ll have a whisky on the rocks”. However, if you actually have your whisky “on the rocks” you’re likely watering it down as the ice melts and can ruin the carefully crafted liquid. ROCKS have a solution. They have created granite whisky chilling stones that perform the same function as ice without diluting your drink. And with a range of colours and materials available, they look amazing as well. ROCKS chilling stones $29.90 (approx. £21) available from rockscs.com

Dictador are one of the finest rum producers in the world and their 2 Masters collection is one of the pinnacles. For the 2 Masters Royal Tokaji they collaborated with the renowned wine maker Royal Tokaji in Hungary, entrusting them with a 40-year Colombian rum to be aged in Zemplén oak barrels. It is the culmination of the work of two masters of their respective arts, helmed by Hernan Perra and Zoltán Kovács. 2 Masters Royal Tokaji Rum £670, from goedhuis.com

MACALLAN – TALES OF THE MACALLAN VOLUME 1 This is the first in a new series of exceptionally rare single malt Scotch whiskies that tell the story and history of Macallan’s pioneering distillations. This first volume is in honour of Captain John Grant who, in 1700, owned the land that would eventually become the Macallan Distillery. The liquid itself dates back to 1950 and has been bottled in a bespoke Lalique crystal decanter, limited to 350 pieces worldwide. Tales of The Macallan Volume 1 is priced at £60,000, available from The Macallan Boutiques and selected retailers

MACNAIR’S BOUTIQUE HOUSE OF SPIRITS – EXPLORATION RUM The GlenAllachie Distillers have rebranded Macnair’s into a new Boutique House of Spirits, an event celebrated by the release of a new small batch rum from whisky master Billy Walker, which is his first foray into rum. The Exploration Rum features sugar cane from Panama and was also aged in American oak casks in the Panamanian climate prior to moving to GlenAllachie’s distillery in Speyside. The liquid is available in three expressions, each limited to 400 cases. For more information visit macnairs.com

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END — moviewatch

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Cocktail What’s the first watch you get when you come into a bit of money? Sure, there are a few decent choices out there, some cool niche independents and solid, iconic, instantly recognisable icons, but let’s be honest, it’s probably going to be a Rolex. That was doubly true in the 80s, especially in the case of Cocktail’s Brian Flanagan.

First, a bit of background if you’ve never seen the rom-comdrama. A worryingly young-looking Tom Cruise plays protagonist Flanagan, a bartender, not quite by choice, in Jamaica. He meets mentor Doug Coughlin – played by Bryan Brown – who challenges him to pursue a wealthy female patron. I mean, it was the 80s. Apparently that was ok then. It’s… not a great film. It won the Golden Raspberry Award for Worst Picture and while that’s perhaps a bit harsh – it’s no Showgirls – it’s certainly not Cruise’s best. It’s fun though and for the watch lovers out there, there’s a neat little cameo. To pursue the wealthy woman of his dreams, Flanagan needs to earn with some mad mixology skills and plenty of flair. Once he does, you can quite clearly see that he’s been earning well thanks to a downright lovely steel Rolex Air-King on his wrist. The pared-back bracelet number has a streamlined silvered dial, understated and practical in equal measure. It’s not just Cruise’s character that moves up in the world, however. His mentor manages to take his own advice and marries into wealth and to celebrate treats himself to a gold Cartier. Before you applaud him for good taste, back in the 80s it was a little more flashy than it’s considered these days and you can be sure his character motivation wasn’t to invest in a classic. So yes, while we can’t recommend Cocktail as the kind of film that should be preserved for posterity so that future generations can learn the gravitas of ‘Coughlin’s Law’, it’s a fun enough watch. More importantly, the wrist game is on point.

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Oracle Time - Issue 75 - The Sustainable Issue.

Articles inside

MOVIE WATCH

IN FOCUS

DRINK IT IN

CRYPTO’S GREEN FUTURE

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO

WATCH REVIEWS

MATERIAL GAINS

MAN OF INFLUENCE

SQUEAKY CLEAN

OT MAGAZINE / ISSUE

ASK THE ORACLE

SMOOTH OPERATORS

ANYONE FOR TENNIS?

AFICIONADO