INSIDEa catalan‘dallas’///make it like a tree///la fatxa dixit!
Week BCN
WHO CRACKS FIRST? the quest continues PA G E 1 0
B A R C E L O N A ’ S F R E E C U L T U R A L N E W S W E E K LY | W W W . B C N W E E K . C O M | J U LY 2 8 – A U G 3 , 2 0 0 6
WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO STAY JUST A LITTLE LONGER? PAWNING YOUR SHIT COULD BE AN OPTION.
VOL 1, NO 11
T H E ‘ I N E E D PA S T A’ I S S U E
QUIERES QUEDARTE? WANNA STAY IN ‘BODACIOUS-B’ AFTER THE SUMMER IS GONE? HERE’S WHAT TO DO TO IR TIRANDO. PA G E 4
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VOL 1, NO 11
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J U LY 2 8 - A U G 3 , 2 0 0 6 W W W. B C N W E E K . C O M
E D IT O R’ S L E T T E R I am American and in any conversation with other Americans question number three is generally “what do you do?” (following your name and where you are from). It’s funny when Americans come to visit and they ask my friends what they do here. The response is always given with a little bit of bemusement. It is nice to live in a society where your job doesn’t define the person you are. You sometimes forget that you came from a reality where the title on your business card is one of the ways that you introduce yourself to new people. In this week’s BCN WEEK we take a stab at the job issue. We want to live here, but how can we survive here? A lot of us left stable, possibly more lucrative jobs to enjoy a better quality of life here. At what expense? To what lengths do we go to scrape by here? Perhaps at one point in your life if you only had 50¤ to your name you would be in an financial state of panic, whereby here — you have enough to get by for at least five days and drink some beers. Is there another answer for us? Beyond teaching English (which pays nominally in Spain compared to places like Japan), working at pubs, or handing out flyers? There must be more for us here, we just have to find it. Seguro.
Jennifer Cross J E N N @ B C N W E E K .CO M
staff Marcus Villaça foundeR / creative director Jennifer Cross editor / publisher Lena Wiget managing / listings editor David Tressel copy editor Alfredo Lahoz photo editor Tiffany Carter proofreader / pie baker Laurent Bompard distribution director Bruna Cypel design assistant Kade Agan intern extraordinaire editorial contributors Laurent Bompard, Ana Calzada, Isolda Dosrius Déulafeu, Elliotsdöttir, Núria Ferrer, Lee Lancaster, Hillary Leben, Joe Littenberg, Nicole Kelly, Claire Parker, Lina Rosengren, David Tressel
art contributors Toni BG, Alfredo Lahoz, utensil
advertising sales Domenico Composto dom@bcnweek.com Joe Littenberg joe@bcnweek.com Robert Senior rob@bcnweek.com
Week BCN
San Gil 2, bajos 2, 08001 Barcelona, Spain info@bcnweek.com | www.bcnweek.com D.L. L-741-06 © 2006 all rights reserved
S AY F O R M A T G E !
the best swag IN TOWN PUT YOUR GLOVES ON AND GET READY TO DIG DEEP INTO BARCELONA’S BEST-KEPT SECRET. BY
Elliotsdöttir
PH O T O S BY
Alfredo Lahoz
Need a couple of extra euros in your pocket? Counting your last pennies? Barely making rent? Have your daily meals become two sweaty dürum? Can’t get a job because your Spanish isn’t good enough and your Catalan is non-existent? Barcelona offers you a vast range of odd jobs and I’ve got the facts here on one of the highest paying: you can spend the warmest days of the year chatarra hunting, that is to say, is metal collecting. Put your gloves on and get ready to dig deep into Barcelona’s best-kept secret. Zinc, lead, stainless steel, brass, copper or aluminum are what you’re looking for. To give you an idea of potential earnings, copper goes for 3¤ a kilo and aluminum goes for 1¤ a kilo. Electrical wires, old cans, broken air conditioning and heating units, even car radiators are excellent materials to cash in, and highly appreciated. So where can you find the best swag in town? Garbage containers and construction sites are the
obvious places to start, but also think about what’s lying around Barceloneta’s beach, or you can go even further away to San Adrià de Besos and do that poor beach a big favor. After you’ve spent a couple of days collecting the goods you can go to carrer Villaroel close to Ronda St. Antoni and cash it in. Twice a day a truck comes by and waits for the hoards of people to sell their goods. The reason why I suggest this as a top notch job is that, yes people, no need for papers, no need to speak Spanish or Catalan and they won’t care where you come from or where you got your chatarra… basically no questions are asked, about anything! Some of your colleagues will be: Gypsies, Latinos, Africans, fellow guiris, and yes, Spaniards. WARNING Job conditions are far from glamorous, you’ll be walking around the city drenched in sweat, bruised and smelling like trash, literally trying to find all the chatarra the city has to offer… are you up for
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Guiri Trivia! IN 2006 THE MINIMUM WAGE IN SPAIN ROSE TO 540,90 EUROS/MONTH.
Stayin’alive
IN BCN
YES,YOU CAN ALWAYS TEACH ANGLÈS OR BARTEND AT YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD PUB...BUT THAT GETS OLD SOON. SO,HOW ABOUT SCREENWRITING A CULEBRÓN? OR BUSKING YOUR WAY DOWN THE RAMBLAS? HERE SOME CREATIVE WAYS TO MAKE A LIVIN’ AFTER THE SUMMER (AND MONEY!) IS GONE. 4
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getting creativ0
making money in this town can be a big pain en el culo B Y Lina Rosengren
Making money in Barcelona is difficult, and the competition is steep. I’ve investigated some economic short cuts that you might consider in order to survive after the summer is over.
Home Office My dream has always been working from home. No fixed hours, no stress. You can walk around in your dirty underwear with a chicken wing hanging out your mouth and still be perfectly professional. Here’s what I found here in BCN: Linea Erótica Busca Telefonistas. Phone sex. I immediately thought about a scene from the Robert Altman film, “Short Cuts”, where an
‘latero’ Selling things is a fast way of making money. Since drugs, guns and girls are out of the question I have to think of something else that’s in demand. One such thing is beer. I approach the Rambla with two cans of beer that I have bought for 75 cents each in a shop around the corner. My first client turns me down, and I crack one of my two. After ten minutes a guy approaches me to ask if I’m a police officer. I explain that I’m a beer seller. I tell him my story. “A beer seller who buys beer for 75 cents and drinks them herself?” he asks, “that won’t give you a lot of profit; we buy them for 35 cents.” Salim is 22 years old and is from Pakistan. He tells me that he makes between 40 and 200 euros a day during the summer. That
My dream has always been working from home.No fixed hours,no stress.You can walk around in your dirty underwear with a chicken wing hanging out your mouth and still be perfectly professional. overstressed mum is changing diapers while she talks dirty to some viejo verde over the line. I could do that. When I call the phone sex company it turns out that they don’t sell phone sex anymore. According to the guy I talked to it’s impossible to make money on phone sex and now it’s all about web cam sex, “…but don’t worry, it’s strictly anonymous; nobody will see your face.” The guy tells me that they pay 40 cents per minute; that’s 24¤/hour. I am a bit disappointed; I was looking forward to chilling at home in my most unsexy clothes, maybe having a laugh with some friends and the speakerphone. No, web cam sex is way too personal for 24¤/hour.
seems like good money to me. The risky part of the business is the police. They confiscate the beer and fine the sellers, “but we don’t pay the fines. We tell them that we don’t have money and then there’s not a lot they can do about it.” I ask Salim if he’s scared that the police will send him back to Pakistan for working illegally, “the police look the other way because they know that the tourists want access to beer.” I ask Salim why there are so few girls selling beer. “Drunken people don’t respect girls, they say; how much is that? How much does that cost?” (Salim points at my boobs and my culo,) “they don’t let them work en paz.” Salim has to get back to work. I give him my second beer.
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EUROHOP!!
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US$250-400 a week typing The task is really easy, no selling and no calling strangers, just puuuure typing! The company assures me that the applicants only need “minimal typing skills,” but why would anyone want to employ people with “minimal typing skills” for a typing job? The catch is that the company charges a small fee of 20 US dollars for a “step-by-step training manual” that they will send you — a training program to become a lousy typist? I send an e-mail asking who their clients are and what kind of text we’ll be typing. The company doesn’t even care to answer.
Working in Barcelona often raises the question: is it worth it? Your income never seems to exceed the energy and hours spent. Necessity hasn’t given me the huge balls necessary in order to make money on the black market, yet. If/when the time comes, however, I’m thinking about becoming a freelance controller on the subway (I would keep the fines for myself) or improvising guided tours for tourists I find in Plaza Cataluña. I’ll save these ideas for times of desperation; for the moment I’ve still got 48¤ in my pocket, and, as many of us know, that’s enough for now.
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BCN
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Guiri Trivia! BENJAMIN FRANKLIN WAS A BUSKER OF SORTS. HE USED TO WRITE AND PUBLISH SONGS, POETRY AND LITERATURE ABOUT THE POLITICAL SITUATION AND GO OUT ON THE STREETS AND PERFORM THEM AND SELL COPIES. W W W. W I K I P E D I A . O R G
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conning people out of some serious money B Y Claire Parker My first work experience in Barcelona was one of being introduced to a world of greed, corruption, and lies. I arrived in Barcelona from the UK like many others exchanging a life that was becoming one of suffocating expenses and stresses for one where I could breathe easily under the sun. It was going to be an exciting but daunting new challenge, especially since my Spanish was at a basic level and my Catalan nearly nonexistent. Job prospects were bleak. The agencies did nothing for me, perhaps due to my lack of Spanish, or because of all the competition from people on the same mission. I was selling some bits and bobs and getting slightly desperate for some cash when I came across an ad for a job as a secretary. The ad was no frills simply stating that they were looking for an English speaker with some administrative skills. The
which is wired directly to the US. They then get pushed to send more when the broker knows the share is going to fall. The advice the brokers give is always deceitful. The client can never win. The lads recruited are between 19-25 years old, preferably undereducated, mainly from the bleaker parts of the UK, and are promised a job in the sun making tons of cash. The brighter ones of the bunch don’t take long to see the truth, and if they are decent lads they leave. However, there are plenty of ads appearing in different BCN media searching for ‘hard closers’ to bring in those already here and desperate after experiencing the BCN job market reality. The brainwashing from the managers is done in a clever way convincing the guys that they can make millions. They live all together in plush flats that are free until they make their first deal, from then after
The long hours inputting data and answering the phone in a sexist,corrupt environment was not what I had envisaged as my working life in Barcelona. interview was immediate. Walking into the rather shabby office I was taken aback by the atmosphere — about 30 men, the majority young, pacing around and shouting into their headpieces while TV screens blared out the prices of financial markets. It was an environment like nothing I had ever encountered before. The interview was easy. I was to start the next day. They explained to me that it was a trading company and my work would be in the back office assisting the brokers who were selling shares. There was one other girl working with me, and in the short time I worked there I never met any female brokers. What I had walked into was what is referred to as a ‘chop shop.’ At the time I had no knowledge of what a ‘chop shop’ was and I thought I was working for a legit company. In the dark, I went about my work professionally and efficiently not knowing that it was a scam, a company conning people out of serious cash. The loopholes in Spanish law made it easy for these English and American companies to set-up throughout Spain. As long as the money traded doesn’t enter Spain then they are above the trading law. They trade worthless shares by cold calling unsuspecting English speaking investors who get pulled in by their fierce and high pressure sales techniques. High commissions are made from the client’s initial investment, usually about 5000¤,
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paying an amount far more expensive than most accommodations in the city. Isolated at work and at home, they’re never destined to interact with the Catalan people; they never develop any relationships beyond those they have with colleagues and manipulative bosses. My duties were soul destroying. The long hours inputting data and answering the phone in a sexist, corrupt environment was not what I had envisaged as my working life in Barcelona. The bosses disgusted me, constantly trying to impress the secretaries with their materialistic lifestyles. Whenever I asked questions they got answered vaguely with lies. I believe they thought I could be easily fooled, but with them making so much money so easily I began to realize something dodgy was going on. I listened to what was going on around me and saw through the lies they were telling their clients… that their money was safe. Also, the brokers would not let them sell their shares when they so desperately wanted to, and then would avoid their calls completely. It became obvious what they were up to. It made me sick to be involved in such a fraudulent set up. It was such a weight off my shoulders when I quit, to be away from that ugly environment and not to be involved with such deceitful people. I knew any other job I got in Barcelona was going to be a positive move.
as the mundo turns quenching your thirst for blood B Y Núria Ferrer
My love affair with the primetime soap opera began at the tender age of nine. Ah, Dallas. It wasn’t the ten-gallon hats, or even the crush I had on Bobby, and I certainly didn’t understand that drilling for black sludge creates stockpiles of cash. No, it was the theme song that hooked me, and the accompanying opening credits. That aerial view of the Ewings’ sprawling Texas ranch, followed by individual shots of the family: the scheming JR, long-suffering alcoholic Sue Ellen, the pater familias, Jock (¡Jock!), poor, torn Pam. Characters! Even as a pre-teen, what I loved about Dallas was its total unreality, its utter dissemblance of the actual world. Where real society asks us to temper our emotions, keep ourselves in check and play nice, soap operas offer us reverse sublimation, whipping passions up into the most absurd, sociopathic scenarios possible. Sweet virtual release. So is there anything more cathartic than obsessing over a soap? Well, how about penning one? I sat down with Josep Maria Miró, a writer for a new telenovela based in Barcelona, and tried not to drool with envy as he told me about his job. A soap’s writing team is broken into three parts: the concept people who come up with the storyline and the characters, the distributors who break the action into the chunks that end up being episodes and scenes, and the dialogue writers who breathe life and nuance into the action outline they’ve been given. Josep Maria is one of the latter, which means that he is personally responsible for the brilliantly snarky comments that you will be repeating ad nauseum come fall. He has the power to make us love or hate, empathize or abandon, laugh or suffer consternation. How does one come by this limitless influence? “Well,” he begins modestly, “I think a lot of it was being in the right place at the right time, and one of the series’ creators read some of my work and thought I could be good for the project.” Hmm. The four prizes he won for dramaturgy this past year probably didn’t hurt either. “And when I read the treatment,” he continues, “the concepts they were proposing, a mix of past and present, real elements with not-so-real ones, in the context of a family drama, seemed like it had a lot of potential.” Okay, I like flashbacks as much as the next guy, but where’s the sex, the accidents, the ex-amantes? I want to face the important questions: How much incest is too much incest? Do illegitimate children always turn out badly? Who’s more dangerous, a spouse or a lover? Don’t worry, he tells me. They know that sex, love, and money are what make the telenovela world go round, and there’ll be plenty of it. The show focuses on a hyperwealthy family in Barcelona, and the dramatic catalyst is another family that comes into the picture, seeking returns on what they believe is theirs. The words “sangre” and “venganza” are thrown around. Already I’m starting to froth at the mouth. But then Josep Maria starts talking about putting poison in my beer. What?!? Has he been taken over by the spirit of vengeful pijo number 1? I need to act quickly to escape this desperate situation! I will retaliate by putting ground-up sleeping pills in his drink! Oh. Oh, phew. He’s just trying to make a point about control of the audience’s gaze. Ha ha. I guess I got a little caught up, and I guess he’s sold me on his storytelling ability. Bring it home to Catalunya, baby. Dynasty style. Look out for the new primetime telenovela (provisionally titled ‘Gratacel’ or possibly ‘Babel’), airing this fall on TV3 on Monday and Tuesday nights.
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f make it like a tree... +
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Belle is a lovely patchouli-souled earth child from the Czech Republic. She looks at you with quiet calming eyes and speaks earnestly about the rightness of it all. I was with her when she received news of her grandmother’s death. She very calmly poured two shots of warm vodka and we toasted Grandma’s departure, stiffly. Belle is a tree, and I have never met a treeier person. You may have seen her around the Cathedral slowly moving her branchy appendages in unison with a partner… being a tree is better when there’s two, three’s great. The master tree is a man whose name she didn’t want to tell me, but is an artist that takes his tree troupe very seriously. His goal is to build a forest and travel. Belle tells me that her average day is four hours and she usually walks with 50¤. Outside of Barcelona she’ll earn up to 100¤ for the same time; the difference, she told me indignantly, is that ‘people here in BCN just take photos without paying, it’s like robbing.’ Belle wants to break out of her woody trunk and bloom; she’s currently working on a flower costume. Master tree thinks it’ll make a nice addition. BCN is a buskin’ town, but the best acts always seem to be limited engagements. My favorites have been coquettish, Velásquez-inspired meninas, kendo battles, and a Titanic interpretation that involved a luggage cart from the airport, plastic sea creatures, a water gun, and girl leaning hard with arms spread wide against the created-with-a-sheet bow of the cart lip-syncing ‘My Heart Will Go On’ while being pushed by a lanky man wearing plaid. But what about the ones that are
David Tressel always out there, the estrellas: Michael Jackson, Cleopatra, the Indigenous Americans, Che, the puppeteers, magicians, and dirty Winnie the Pooh…what are they saying about the busking life? What does the Ajuntament say? This is the low-down: Street art on Las Ramblas is looked upon as a cultural phenomenon and is tolerated as such. One must wear makeup as a fundamental part of the costume, a mask will not suffice. Street artists can only perform in predetermined locations, and if their act is likely to attract a large crowd that blocks the flow of pedestrian traffic they must perform at the bottom of Las Ramblas. Music is not allowed, nor is the incorporation of (actual) trees. Artists may not set prices or insist that they be paid, and they must, above all else, respect the public. No license is required and no fees/taxes are collected. As far as what the artists are saying, I talked to a disco dancing fly couple, a Greek statue, elfin things, a puppeteer, someone who sat, a strange foresty couple, and a foam wo-man. On average five hours is a working day and earnings come in at about 70¤. There are those who do this for the love of performance and the interaction with the public, and those just looking to make a euro. The difference is usually quite clear. What’s your plan, broke guiri? The Ajuntament has no problem with your expression/desperation, and the artists I spoke to deny the rumored existence of a busker mafia. Las Ramblas awaits as your stage. As long as you can come up with something slightly creative or well costumed, there’s a pocket full of euros out there waiting for you.
‘FIGURAS’
OUR VERY OWN ‘A-LIST’ OF BARCELONA PERSONAJES BY
Joe Littenberg
trixi drivers You’ve seen them in la Plaza de la Catedral,or maybe down by Colón. They’ve almost run you over — though at a slow clip — while you were walking down Sant Pere Més Alt. They are the taxistas reales. They don’t spend the day sitting on their asses,absorbing air-conditioned air.You callthat a job? These guys pedal for a living,that is when they aren’t lounging in the shade, shootin’the shit,and sippin’ on a Moritz, as I happened to find them last Tuesday afternoon.‘They’are trixi drivers. The name trixi is a combination of tricycle and taxi,and these finely tuned,finely tanned drivers will usher you around in their two-seater,motorassisted trixi for a price.“Can you take me to the airport?” Impossible.That’s a real disappointment. It turns out that these trixistas can’t bike down highways.Why? Top speed not fast.They can’t take you to Park Güell either. “Getting there is like this,” he says as he extends his forearm to show a steep slope. “So what’s your name?” “Diesel.” It’s not everyday you get to interview a guy named Diesel.He grabs his walkie-talkie off his belt and plays with the dials a bit.“Within the company,everyone calls me that.” His real name’s Dani.That’s cool,Diesel.I dig it.There are 10 trixis in Barcelona,and ten guys.I met Diesel, Manolito,and Jose. They allwear the Trixi uniform, which is a cutre black-and-white, grafitti-esque and therefore Desigual-
esque t-shirt and grey shorts.Diesel,in character,has cut off his sleeves to revealthat nice tan.Sandals on the feet.Walkie-talkies at the hip. They wait for tourists to approach,and on this particular day,sip some cans of Moritz. Jose,with the dreadlocks,ate a bocadillo de tortilla de spinach. Some girls stroll up, then a mother and daughter and a lone guy wanting to ask a question. The trixistas jump into action.“To Sagrada Familia? That’s 15.” Whatever money they make during the day is theirs to keep. On a good day they make around 60 or 70 euros.But it hasn’t seemed to make them too formal on the job. Jose takes another bite out of his bocadillo and continues explaining why a trip to La Sagrada Familia will cost a little more. One by one,they start to say goodbye. The first takes off with the pair of girls as Manolito pulls up,ending a tour.It’s important question time now. “So,what’s the best part of the job?” “The freedom.It’s an eight hour day,but you can spend parts of it with friends, hanging out,talking,being outside.And you can make a lot of money if you want to work hard.” Sounds like the definition of a good Barcelona workday for this guiri. And do you fight over who takes the pretty girls? Without a moment’s hesitation they respond,“yes.Always.” Jose cracks another Moritz and puts it behind the seat of his trixi.“With the chicas,Manolito is peligro número uno.”
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WE SPEAK ENGLISH, SPANISH, ITALIAN AND FRENCH
Carrer Marquès de Barberà 15 (only 100m from Rambla)
TEL (+34)933041885 BCN
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MANCHESTER BAR ‘HAPPY HAPPY’ COCKTAILS
3¤
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Isolda Dosrius Déulafeu
la fatxa dixit
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— Mimí, look at this, please,... Mimí please, don’t look at your painted nails, they are perfect! — “Perdona, Isolda, deies?” — A fan of BCNWeek, “una tal Cristina”, wrote: ‘...that is written in incorrect English. It’s pathetic... You guys have a nice paper, but stuff like this lowers its quality...’ It’s me!! My column! — Your column? What? — Yes, ..., it’s pathetic to tolerate an article with incorrect English. Oooh, my God! Is it a sin or transgression? What of ‘this’ two words are more correct loved fan? — I think booth... take it easy, you know “com són els guiris”, only for picking them up. — Ah! I can see her syntax and, oh my
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God, it’s “insuportablement perfecte”!! Every piece of every sentence is “terriblement” correct. But my little Cristina, the jealous people don’t have the genius to make good ideas “amb vida pròpia” with own life. They don’t have the ‘cleverness’ (is this word correct?) to create smiling, comical, … situations. Aaaaaand you don’t have the real guiri fluency in your writing, sorry but after reading your e-mail, I think you are not “angloparlant”. Your grammar is so so similar to Catalan grammar… Ah! It’s a tipy to find people who prefer the form rather than the contents. But it’s normal, my loved Cristina, a lot of people, nowaday, are so so influenced by the current rules of fashion. It’s good to look like the best top model, no worries! (like Aussy English…) people don’t care about their brain, people only look at their ass, silicone lips and “pits”.
G R O W S H O P L’ I N T E R I O R C / D E L C A R M E 2 9 | T E L . 93 4 1 2 5 0 7 3 B A R C E LO N A 0 8 0 0 1
— Isolda, sisplau! We’re in the middle of Passeig the Gràcia. “Ai! Déu meu! Quina vergonya!” Waiter! Please, a cup of tila, for her! — Or not, maybe... Mimí, listen to me,... — My ears are only yours, and also the ears of the clients in this terrace,... — ... maybe, she’s a guiri… will be her occupation to contemplate the forms in the world and after to qualifie it? Strange occupation, but from the guiris I can wait “de tot”. If she’s able to say that BCN Week loses quality with my incorrect writing, what is she doing living in BCN? She is dirty, she is expensive,… — WHOOOO? The fan?! — No, Isolda! Are you listening to me? BCN is dirty over all after “la marcha nocturna”… She’s… Oh! Sorry, can I
| M E T R O L-3 , L I C E U M E T R O STAT I O N
treat BCN like a person? Yes! I love her. She’s not perfect, like my syntax, but ‘in her’ there are living the best people in the world, like in my stories, with my language… mmmmh! Eureka! — What this face means? Are you sick, Isolda? — Don’t worry Mimí. Have you seen that athletic boy? — WHEEEEERE? — Take it easy Mimí, we’re in the middle… — “Per Déu Isolda”! I know it! Where’s he? Ah! Yes. Wow! How about my make up? And my red nails?… Ai, ai, ai, he’s he’s he’s coming coming in… here… Isolda, don’t you have to go to see your neighbour’s daugther? Sorry, I’ve a new plan. I wish! And I can’t go with you. Mmmmh! Cristina, there is a thing that you ‘doesn’t knows’, I don’t write in English, I write in La Fatxa’s Language!
Week BCN
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P R O D U C TO S the coolest stuff from around the world! get your guiri fix at
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24-07-2006 20:39:03
SOME LIKE IT GROSS
the downfallof the drinking class how sweet decadence can taste Laurent Bompard
As fun as it may seem to investigate the dark, hidden,and often illegal side of Barcelona,there are moments when one doesn’t have anything dodgy enough to write about,and the only solution is to behave badly hoping for some good fun and a good story to tell. One of these nights while celebrating the fact that I had just been sacked from my job and had a good stack of cash to spend over the summer, I was having a few beers,and enjoying some loud music and a good conversation with my mate and a waiter.When we all felt that it was about time to call it a night,we paid, said goodbye and left. It was then that my sixth sense stopped me in my tracks and made me turn back around for one more drink. I walked into a place I know but won’t name for obvious reasons.All I expected was to find the owner and a handful of regulars.There she was,the owner,along with a lady drinking alone and a group of loud French guys without a map. Later Mister Neil arrived, followed shortly by an über Femme Fatale type that often lurks in those dark waters.As time passed the door was closed and only we happy few remained locked inside condemned to drink ourselves into oblivion.The place felt cozier than home, but it wasn’t only due to the temperature,the drinks,and the always tempting presence of some friendly inebriated souls (especially tempting when they are
female souls).The feeling was not like in that Cassavetes movie or any of Bukowski’s tales of drunk stupor, but rather a sort of educated, selfdeprecating and stylish drinking session (after all,we were all on white wine,Amaretto or 1906, no cheap Estrella in sight). No loud jokes about women, no commentaries about the World Cup or this season’s fashion trend. We enjoyed it without having to mention that we were better off here than alone at home,that getting drunk is a fair price to pay when only cold drinks can help you to fight the heat, heartbreak,and the inability to sleep.We laughed when Neil, in a moment of divine inspiration, raised his glass to “the downfall of the drinking class.” As we were finishing the fifth after the last, I thought it was maybe time to really call it a night, to refuse the inviting smile and open hands of that beautifulwoman and leave. I put my headphones on and walked down the street thinking about how sweet decadence can taste… and so I tried to get just one last one at the Barcota.Alas! everybody was drunk beyond recognition and the waitress told me,with a sorry smile,that she definitely couldn’t serve me a beer. I walked home thinking about the downfall of the drinking class, how the words rolled nicely in my mouth, and how this title had only cost me a glass of white wine.
T WO - BY- F OU R
a typical terraza BY
Irene Hwang
Having forgotten yet another 4th of July, I found myself thinking back to the barbecues of my past. Filled with Frisbees, baby back ribs, and lemonade, the typical American barbecue almost always happens in someone’s backyard. A space of swing sets and pool parties, the backyard lawn is the symbol of American leisure, a private chunk of terra firma that each household can fashion into its own idea of bucolic perfection. Normally when we think of architecture, we don’t think about grass, or its absence. Here in Barcelona, there’s tons of Gaudí, but where are the grills?! At first glance, there don’t seem to be any, but if you’ve been in the city for more than one summer you are intimately familiar with the much coveted “terraza.” Once the space for drying laundry, the terraza is now one of the most precious spatial commodities in the entire city. Before air-conditioning and elevators, the ático apartment was the least desired of all properties. It was horribly insulated, a bitch of a climb, and the smallest piso in the entire building. But, as lifestyles changed and technology advanced, the lamest flat suddenly became the coolest flat and the current level of astronomical asking prices reflect the terraza fever that grips nearly every resident of the city. Infected with the fever myself, I’m glad to be one of the lucky ones. I love my terraza unconditionally and irrationally. Among the countless splendors of a Barcelona summer, the unbeatable joy of sipping tinto on my terraza is an amazing luxury, una gozada in its pure form. Falling somewhere between the private home and the public realm of
the street, the terraza is a hybrid space that operates like an urban two-way mirror, invisible to those below and transparent to those above. This duality is what makes the terraza such intriguing and unexpected architecture. It provides privacy in a non-private city, it is a place to watch, a place to be seen, it is both natural (full of plants and sun) and entirely fake, a type of air-lawn that replicates the ground, but hovers eight stories up; it is a conflation of interior/exterior where you have to go inside in order to get outdoors. Like the people that populate these terrazas, each one is unique. There are the gigantic entre-suelo species, the balcony-on-steriods type, and the rooftop don’t-walk-near-the-antennas version. Last week I was in the Sagrada Familia, and from my privileged vantage point (i.e. “above”) I had the perfect view of a neighboring apartment building that was ringed by a swatch of terraza. Fascinatingly complete with a sprinkling of potted plants, a sun-bather, an inflatable kiddie-pool, an exercise bike, and a fountain, each segment of the terraza was a glimpse into individual tastes and habits: bachelor, old couple, travelling business woman, young family, and rental flat. The tile flooring, the color of generic-plant green, coupled with a dash of Astroturf, seemed an uncanny analog to the patchwork leisure network of backyard America that was such a major part of my life. However, now that I live in Barcelona, I’m happy to know that tonight, after I uncork another bottle of Raimat on my terraza, there’s nothing stopping me from busting out the grill, frying up some hotdogs and seriously abusing some ketchup.
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WHO CRACKS FIRST?
GUIRIS STRUGGLE TO STAY IN CITY THEY THOUGHT THEY LOVED. A ‘REALITY’ SHOW. BY
Hillary Leben
horario: de 12 a 16h. y de 20 a 00h.
www.omindiabcn.com
Steve
LUNCH FORMULA DISH OF THE DAY DESERT AND DRINK
5,60¤ Mendez Nunes Pç. Sant Pere
Rond a San t Per e
Arc de Triomf
Lluis Companys
Trafa lgar
tal Com Rec
erç Com
PLAÇA SANT PERE 5 08003 BARCELONA + 93 295 50 12
You may not believe it but it’s beginning to look as though one of our participants has already escaped this steamy, agitated beast of a city. Leaving shortly after a month, Steve headed for England, then later to the north of Spain to teach at a summer camp. There is some debate as to whether or not these sneaky moves can be categorized as “cracking” or not. Steve claims he’s still in, but we’re beginning to doubt Barcelona will have the honor of seeing this evenmannered Englishman return. Time will soon tell.
poppy
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“I’m still blond.” Poppy contorted with a twinkling smile. She’s living it up in BCN with very few complaints. Recent good times have been had, namely: a date on Montjuïc involving kissing and champagne (no biting), a discovered passion for live bullfighting, and a love affair with all roof terraces.
johnny “Oh, is this a contest?” Johnny, our token American, asked, startled after I asked him what his advantages were. After some pondering, he replied that if the need arises, he is able to hibernate and live off his own body fat. Luckily, he hasn’t had to do that yet, as he has landed a sweet gig in La-bisbal-something-somethingsomething near Girona. He’s fed, provided a bed, a pool, and a slew of little Catalan boys and girls to teach English to. He can be found back in BCN on the weekends with his wallet full. Way to go, Johnny boy! In
addition to the job security, which will last for just a month, he’s run with bulls, discovered a 68 cent bottle of wine at Sorli Discau, and realized a somewhat unsettling obsession for pirates following his viewing of the pirate exhibition at the maritime museum, “I found out that pirates are cool,” he said. Signs of weakness on John’s behalf? The women still don’t find him exotic, he’s still talking about cheese sauce, and is developing a crush on the elderly hostess of his favorite Chinese restaurant. He likes the way she says “fumar, no fumar?”
Skye Skye’s living situation has improved quite severely. She now lives with a male stripper (he’s straight by the way) who has “become her mum.” He has a multitude of thongs, a perfectly proportioned body, and endless costumes conveniently stitched with Velcro removal systems. Sounds pretty maternal to me. “He’s been so stressed out,” she confided, “I’ve been having to give him massages, but not in a dodgy way.” This newest living arrangement came about following a slip in the mental well-being of her former roommate who followed her around switching off lights and would replace her wet towel with one of his own. Other “mentally insane” behavior included placing Skye’s lighter outside her bedroom door upon finding it on the coffee table. A mention of a certain “travel bug” that’s been nibbling at Skye’s soul has me questioning her contentment in Barcelona, however.
Will Johnny finally make the Velveeta cheese sauce he has such a hard-on for? Will Skye end up moving to India the next chance she gets? Stay tuned, guiris. Don’t crack on us.
P H O T O S BY L AU R A T Ä T T I L Ä
A PLACE OF MEETING AND CULTURAL DIALOGUE AROUND A GOOD PLATE OF FOOD
Our incredibly sexy AND adventurous newbies let it all out, admitting to their pirate infatuations, their thirst for seeing animals murdered, and miniature sex-god roommates.
TO WORK WE GO, TO WORK WE GO... NOT!
the short list
PH O T O S BY
Alfredo Lahoz
bars, restaurants and hangouts que molan big time M E T I C U L O U S LY S E L E C T E D ( B U R P ! ) /// R E P E AT E D LY J U E R G A -T E S T E D /// N E V E R E V E R PA I D F O R
URBAN OASIS
MAILUNA VA L D O N Z E L L A , 4 8
TEL. 93 301 20 02
From the dirty bustling streets of the Raval, you can enter the doors of Mailuna “tómate un momento de calma.” Té de la semana is only 2,00¤ and most of the other teas range around 3¤. Mailuna has it all: green, black, red, blue, white and plant teas. When you ask what teas they have, the waitress promptly arrives with two portable spice racks of loose leaf teas ready for your sniffing. Any of them can be blended into an ice tea smoothie for 3,50¤. If tea isn’t your bag, they also make fresh juices. It isn’t always tea time though — there’s food as well, we haven’t even gotten to the best part of Mailuna — massages. We recommend the anti-stress. Half an hour is 27¤, which is approximately ten beers. Ten beers could be worth a half hour of intense relaxation depending on your disposition. The chocolate massage is also on the short list but at 1¤ a minute you best have done something really great to treat yourself to this one. Mailuna offers more massages, beauty treatments and therapies (including nutritional counseling) which you can check out at their website www.mailuna.net
BA R / TA N G O H A LL
BAR PASTÍS S A N TA M Ó N I C A , 4 T E L . 9 3 3 1 8 7 9 8 0
Bar Pastís is owned by the same folks responsible for Kiosko de la Cazalla (see below). Entering into this old-time Barri Xino locale is like entering someone’s cluttered and confused mind. There is a giant paper maché bumblebee hanging from the ceiling, swaying gently to the omnipresent French burlesque music. Dark paintings are jammed in all open wall space along with yellowing newspaper clippings, postcards from decades past and little mounted dichos. Most of the light is emitted by a pair of fishnet stocking legs, a-la Christmas Story. Pastis is actually served here. There are four different kinds awaiting your consumption. Beer is 2¤ and wine is 2,50¤. A shot of Jack will set you back 3,50¤. You can milk it as you listen to one of the nightly live performances, the best being “los martes de tango” where the crowd has a tendency to work themselves up into a Pastís tango frenzy. Pastís is open from 23:30h on and there is a strict consumición obligatoria in place.
A VIEW TO THE BORNE
EL ROSAL C/ COMERÇ ADJUNTO DEL PLAÇA DEL BORNE
You’re a hipster who drives a mint green Vespa. You’re a big fatty desperately allergic to bee stings. You’re a sociophobe who owns a clothing line on the side. All walks of life find paz at El Rosal. This tiny Borne local is always full of people meeting people, people watching people and people just drinking alone. Inside it’s hot but outside it’s hotter so take your pick:
the terrace or the bar. The terrace is coveted real estate so consider yourself lucky if you find a seat and then guard it with your life. The most unexpected thing about Rosal is when you stare up and expect to see a ceiling fan, but instead see a faux painted terrace with several cooks toiling away making some of the best Indian food in town. Look to the left and there is a little window that only fits a cook, his stove and some spices. The pakora platter is superb at 6,70¤ and the curry pollo is a great full dish — served with rice for 8,20¤, wash it down with an Estrella for 2¤, sit back and watch the Borne stroll by.
KIOSKO DE LA CAZALLA
FOOD
PIZZAS L’ÀVIA
H O L E I N T H E WA L L ( L I T E R A L LY ! )
A R C D E L T E AT R E , 5 T E L . 9 3 3 0 1 5 0 5 6 LA CERA, 33 TEL. 93 442 00 97
If you have been looking for a place to grab a slice and do some catch up reading on Spiritualism we’ve got the place for you. Pizzas L’ Àvia in Raval is perhaps the only place in town where you can eat lunch for under 4¤ and choose from a wide variety of reading material ranging from “Historias de la Inmortalidad” to “El Libro de Oro de La Cocina Española”. Slices are just 1,50¤ and the
empanadas are only 1¤. There is also a roast chicken dish served up with potatoes for 7,25¤. Pan dulce de Pascua is on sale yearround for 3,60¤. And beat this Pizza Hut – a full pizza más a bottle of wine, cava or Pepsi is only 9¤. Pizzas L’ Àvia is closed on Monday, Tuesday through Saturday they are open from 11:00 to 1:00h and sunday 11:00 to 17.30h and then again 19:30 to 1:00h.
If you ever want to share your breakfast with a transvestite, local marujas, and what appears to be a pirate then stop by Kiosko de la Cazalla off of La Rambla. Since 1912 this literal hole in the wall has had everything “de un bar, pero más pequeño”. With your café in the the morning you’ll get a free little pastel and you can listen to the local boys size up guapas as they strut by. Kiosko is also a good place to pass by for your mid-day bocadillo. They are open Monday through Friday 10:00-2:00h and Saturday 11:00-2:00h. Sunday they are closed. Pay heed to the writing on the wall.
BCN
Week
11
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Because it’s too hot to sleep anyway…
A second demonstration organised by the Comunitat Palestina, the Xarxa d’Enllaç amb Palestina, and Plataforma A against Israel’s inhumane foreign policy starts at 20:00h at the Plaça Sant Jaume in front of the Ajuntamiento. At Nui the London artist group CutUp inaugurate their exhibition “La Vida Te Espera” at 20:00h. It’s soon to move back to the streets of Poble Nou where interventionist art toying with turban realities belongs. The US-American comedian Rachel Arieff who usually hosts the weekly Anti-karaoke night at Sidecar has her last show of “Como ser feliz todo el tiempo”at Teatre Llantiol today. questions about life, death and the Page Essential 1 human condition in general get the special Arieff-treatment at 23:00h in – atencíon – original Spanish version. Price: 12 Euros. Béla Fleck And The Flecktones are touring the country at the moment. They’re playing their characteristic mix of bluegrass, funk and jazz at the Teatre Principal at 22:00h. Tickets cost between 25-35¤. As part of Grec ‘06 the Brazilian Marcelo D2 is playing at the Teatre Grec tonight where he offers his audience an ambitious combination of Samba and Hip Hop. The show starts at 22:00h and costs between 15 and 36 Euros. The last concert in the Concert Phonos series at the gallery Metrònom begins at 21:00h under the direction of Harry Sparnaay who leads the creative instrumental + electronic play of the group ESMUC. Entrance is free. The Cruïlla de Cultures in Mataró has come to an end but that doesn’t mean that the show is over. At 22:30h the Deambulants present “Alt”, a performance up in the air and on the wall rather than down to earth accompanied by the Orchestra Fireluche at the Paseo Marítimo. But this is just one among many shows and concerts that are going on this week(end) because Mataró is celebrating its Fiesta Mayor (until Sunday). For details see www.laguiademataro.com. At Apolo [2] the Monatronic night begins with OPIU live! + ONE MANNED MULE live! + FIBLA DJ at 00:30h and at Sidecar Maika Makovski from Mallorca folk punk plays at 22:30h. Admission: 7 Euros. TEATRE LLANTIOL @ CARRER RIERETA 7 // NUI @ ALMOGÀVERS 208 // TEATRE PRINCIPAL @ RAMBLA 27 // TEATRE GREC @ PG. SANTA MADRONA 36 // METRÒNOM @ FUSINA 9 // APOLO [2] @ NOU DE LA RAMBLA 111 // SIDECAR @ PLAÇA REIAL 7
friday /// jULY 28 POOL. BEER. BABES. FOR 6¤.
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the week
Whoever missed the Billy Wilder special at the Filmoteca gets another chance – this time al aire libre – to see Wilder’s “1, 2, 3” (1961) on the big screen at the Sala Montjuïc at 22:15h. The evening begins at 21:00h next to the Montjuïc Castle with the group Youkalis followed by the short film Éramos Pocos (2005) by Borja Cobeaga at 22:00h. More cinema at Nui: Another short film session entitled Futureshorts starts at 21:00h with “Hit and Nun” by Neil Jack (UK), “El tren de la bruja” by Koldo Serra (E) and “Hock Hiap Lenong” by Royston Tan (Singapore) among others. Entrance costs 3 Euros. And at MauMau they are screening “I Know I’m Not Alone” by Micheal Franti, a renowned musician and human rights worker, who travels to Iraq, Palestine and Israel to explore the human cost of war with a group of friends, some video cameras and his guitar. Starts at 22:00h. If you don’t mind a metro ride make your way up to Vallcarca where you get the chance to listen to traditional Cuban sounds at the Ateneu Popular Vallcarca starting at 22:00h for 3¤. At The Sound Luis Le Nuit gets a break and it’s time for some ye yeah!!! The Strutterway show starts at 22:30 (entrance free). And next door at the Sala 1 of Razzmatazz the Glasgower “anti-Franz Ferdinand” Pop-Punk trio The Fratellis plays their only gig in town at 2:30h. Entrance costs 15¤ at the door. SALA MONTJUIC @ // NUI @ ALMOGÀVERS 208 // MAUMAU @ FONTRODONA 3 // ATENEU POPULAR VALLCARCA @ HOSPITAL MILITAR 49 // THE SOUND @ ALMOGÀVERS 116 // RAZZMATAZZ @ ALMOGÀVERS 122
saturday /// jULY 29 In the framework of the “Once upon a time, Chernobyl” exhibition that’s currently showing at the CCCB they’re screening the documentary “The Unnamed Zone” (2006, 80 min) at 18:00h (also showing on 3, 5, 10, 12, 17, 19, 24, 26 and 31 August and 2 September). The film, written and directed by Carlos Rodríguez, follows three children and their families into the heart of one of the world’s most disturbing places: Chernobyl and its surrounding area, a vast contaminated region inhabited by five million people. Admission is free, space is limited. If you’re in desparate need of cash, just in the mood for haggling or simply missing a
good garage sale bring your trastos to Shotwell 59 at 19:00h where they’re organising a “Gran Rastrillo de Verano”. Jazz&Carrer is at Tallers 52-54 today with the Lunar Project, a quartet that plays classical Jazz led by the young Barcelonina Clara Luna. The open-air concert starts at 19:30h. At Sala Mephisto another Voltech Party night begins. There have been 27 Voltech Parties previously and as the summer advances there will be plenty more to come – pues: this is nada especial - but if you’re into electronic dance music and up for slightly generic sounds that make your body move and your brains switch off, then you’ll have a fabulous night. If you need a break from the Kentucky bar vibe and you think elephants are sympathetic animals that – carved out of wood – make a lovely decoration for a club take a daring step across Gran Via and check out the bar/club Elephant. It’s pijo but chill in a 1001-nights kind of style. Entrance costs 3¤ and the spacious terrace promises a sweat-free night out til 5:00h in the morning. Last but not least, Scanner FM presents Crossfader at La Paloma tonight with DJ ZERO, Mastergoist, Dave Bridge, DJ Maadraasso and DJ GUS starting at 2:00h. CCCB @ MONTALEGRE 5 // SHOTWELL 59 @ AVIACÒ 5 // SALA MEPHISTO @ ROC BORONAT 33 // ELEPHANT @ TILLERS 1 // LA PALOMA @ TIGRE 27
sunday /// jULY 30 For an air-conditioned, arty Sunday, the Caixa Forum is the perfect retreat at the moment. The three exhibitions currently on show – Històries animades, “First Class” by the Romanian artists Dan Perjovschi (known for his subversive use of caricature and graffiti) – are all worth a look. The Caixa Forum is open from 10:00h in the morning till 20:00h in the evening. Alternatively, meet and mingle with the little furry or the big hairy animals at BCN’s Zoo. Bring your picnic, choose a spot in the shade and do it like they do: eat, sleep and watch what’s going on at the other side of the fence. The Zoo is open from 10:00h in the morning till 19:00h in the evening. Entrance costs 14.50 Euros for adults. If you don’t need to watch brown bears sweating whilst eating your sandwich, the cheaper alternative is the Parc de la Ciutadella al lado…. If you feel like swimming with posh people in a pool in Hospitalet consider stopping by at Liquid which is open every Sunday night from 00:30 to 5:30h offering different styles of music. Today the theme is “Skinky” powered by Scanner FM: let’s call it intellectual post punk… CAIXA FORUM @ MARQUÉS DE COMILLES 6-8 // ZOOLOGICAL PARK OF BARCELONA @ PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA S/N // LIQUID @ MANUEL AZANA S/N
monday /// jULY 31 Last week the Espai Cultural Caja Madrid inaugurated the exhibition “Generación 2006”, which assembles works from 33 young Spanish artists who have been given the chance to present their (art) worlds to the general public (Mondays to Saturdays from 10:00h to 21:00h). Selected pieces and awardwinners are concurrently exhibited at La Capella (Tuesdays to Saturdays from 12:00h to 14:00h and from 16:00h to 20:00h). Fellini rocks tonight – it’s time again for a Nasty Monday session with resident DJs Maxpunx and Sören at the Salón de los Espejos. ESPAI CULTURAL CAJA MADRID @ PLAZA CATALUNYA 9// LA CAPELLA @ HOSPITAL 56 // FELLINI @ LA RAMBLA 27
tuesday /// aug 1 The Sala Montjuïc season comes to a close but open-air cinema nights continue as Gandules ’06 starts at the CCCB. The feature film tonight is Jean-Luc Godard’s “Pierrot le fou” from 1965. Admission is free. Films are shown in VO with Spanish subtitles. The show begins after dark at 22:15h. CCCB @ MONTALEGRE 5
wednesday/// aug 2 Before the penúltimo feature film - Annie Hall (1977) by Woody Allen – starts at Sala Montjuïc at 22:15h, the winners of the Sala Montjuïc Jazz contest are to play their bestoffs at 21:00h. And at Apolo [2] the Boc Gurus – a Catalan New Rock band – will be on stage presenting one song or another from their new album “6 or 9” to be released this September. If you’re not sure if this experience will be worth the 10 bucks check out their music on www.bocguru.com first. The Catalan New Rock stars are followed by Crano Rareo (minimal pop) and LEK (deep minimal) and finally Synthetic dB (electronic). This combo is called Energy Sounds Fest ’06 and starts at 21:00h. SALA MONTJUIC @ RIGHT NEXT TO THE MONTJUIC CASTLE // APOLO [2] @ NOU DE LA RAMBLA 111
reviews cuz we don’t do pre-views
ASTROLONA cuz it’s better than ‘bar-ology’
BOOK
BY
Lady Ondina Osborne
your grass is greener! STATUS ANXIETY /// ALAIN DE BOTTON /// THE HARVIL PRESS, LONDON BY
Capricorn
Lee Lancaster
While there may be a schadenfreudeshaped gap in the English lexicon — ‘malicious enjoyment of another’s misfortune’ hardly rolls off the tongue, does it? — STATUS ANXIETY certainly nails its opposite. I’m sure we’ve all felt that ‘hopeless despair at another’s good fortune’ on hearing about friends back home who knuckled down after graduation instead of pouncing off round Europe and now have their own beach-house/law firm/small island, etc. This book’s two sections, Causes and Solutions, respectively attempt to explain how we ended up in this situation and what we might do about it. One of our problems, according to De Botton, is that we’ve basically become victims of our own success. After all, in a post-feudal Godless meritocracy we can hardly blame earthly or heavenly powers for our failures, can we? As for his advice: Well, I’m paraphrasing wildly here, but it goes something like this:
1) Be Philosophical. People with flashy cars get depressed and die as well. 2) Lower Your Sights. Dropping out and being Bohemian will never not be cool. 3) Stop Buying Gadgets. Do you really need to carry 20,000 songs around in your pocket? 4) Find Beauty In Art And Nature. Climb a mountain, go to a museum, make like Rousseau — you know the drill. Convinced? Nah, nor me. While aesthetics and anti-materialism are noble enough concepts, I find that they do tend to crumble in the face of (admittedly shameful) thoughts like: ‘Come August, I’d rather be depressed in an air-conditioned Audi than squeezed between foul-smelling tourists on the red line’ and ‘I’m sure people would respect me more if I had a video iPod’. In short, two questions remain. One: Who’s this guy trying to kid? And two: Am I even getting paid for this piece?
C O N C E RT
ny folk rock with a soviet twist REGINA SPEKTOR /// APOLO [2] /// THURSDAY, JULY 13 BY
Nicole Kelly
The first time I saw Regina Spektor it was in the auditorium of my mostly-female liberal arts college. I remember that her mom was in the front row, and that one of her knee socks was white and the other was navy. She spent a few minutes fumbling with a wobbly stool before whacking it with a drumstick for one whole song, thusly providing her own percussion accompaniment to her one handed piano playing. When she appeared on stage at Apolo [2] last Thursday night, it was obvious that she has preserved all the little idiosyncrasies and that same oddball charm that has made her a success in the Manhattan anti-folk scene and which distinguishes her from the singer-pianists (Tori, Fiona, Bjork, etc) with whom she is regularly compared. She was, is, curious—the stories her songs tell are strange though her voice is captivating; while songs about love or death are insightful, she also sometimes likes to play a mouth trumpet or a beat box. Two years and two major record label albums after the show that got me hooked, her quirks are still bewitching her audiences, but it’s her highly original blend of jazz and rock and roll, together with the wit and candor she employs in her writing, that makes her so entertaining. For the Moscow-born New Yorker, constant transitions from one style to another—from child-like soprano on to the throaty jazz siren, from songstress to rapper—seem as natural as switching from a classical piano to electric guitar. While she opened at the piano with a ballad so soulful it bordered on gospel, she followed it with a boisterous number whose crowd appeal lay in yelling “Mary Anne’s a bitch!” as the chorus. Those familiar with the elements that make each song distinct on 2004’s Soviet Kitsch or just released Begin to Hope (Sire Records) won’t be disappointed by her stage renditions. Her voice never misses, and while she does take some liberties (this time around she bangs the drumstick against the piano during “Poor Little Richboy”) the typical unconventional accessories chime in at all the right places as well.
You’ll do anything to escape the messy city centre such as taking train trips to nowhere and back again. At night you’ll perform structured activities, like playing Tetris. It may also happen that you get pissed drunk in order to escape from yourself, but you already know that it’s actually impossible. You’ll always be just where you left you.
aquarius You’d planned to spend the week on the beach but you immediately get overwhelmed by the garbage, the polluted sea, lost children and their desperate parents. You get so upset that you’ll be tempted to become an Okupa and fight for a better world. Be careful, the world doesn’t get any better; this is as good as it gets, my lost child.
pisces People often confuse the star sign Pisces with actual fish. They say Pisces are passive, shy, and that they can act like a “doormats”. What do you think, Pisces? Get out of the damn water and explain what this Pisces thing is all about!
aries The heat gets you to you relax. Your good mood and your enthusiasm are transmitted to those around you during the coming week and you will be Sr/Sra. Fantastic for almost everyone. Don’t think that this powerful charisma you’re feeling will allow you to make right old wrongs. Now’s not the time, not yet.
taurus Part of “La dolce vita” is food and drinks, and you love it, but you might want to think a bit about what it is you’re trying to feed or what that thirst is you’re trying to quench… it’s not so physical and never was.
gemini Double trouble, like always. Who are you going to alternate between this week? A bra burning feminist and a 70 year old Sicilian grandfather, a Basque separatist and a Lesbian porn director? Whatever the case, please do so tactfully; you’re very powerful this week.
cancer You continue with the cute, loving attitude that people are just soooo sick of right now. This would be the perfect time for you to start hating something or someone for a change.
leo Love is in sight for a short while before it goes off into the sunset holding hands with another. If you hadn’t been so nice and honest this would never have happened. Assholes, not blonds, have more fun.
virgo You’re a dutiful and loyal person and this is why you’re the only who stays late at the office. Sometimes this makes you bitter, but often it gives you a sweet feeling of grand supremacy, standing over other people with the arrogant knowledge that you belong to a higher species. Oops…is your pedestal teetering, rocking, going to fall down? I hope not, because it’d be a really nasty fall.
libra Since you didn’t want to listen last week when I told you to be careful about joining strange societies, you’re probably busy trying to get out of a MC gang, mariachi band or book club right now. I say since you’re in it, do it, spread Jehovah’s word, enjoy the Mistress’s spank, sell some Amway, though I know you’ll ignore me again.
scorpio Are you tired of being a sex symbol? Try a new style like New Age. You can dress in spacious, colorful clothes with little mirrors that reflect everyone’s glances keeping you nearly invisible. Yes! You’re free! No more tiring advances, all of that bothersome attention! You’re…alone.
sagittarius You spend the coming week reading books in the shade cultivating your pale, intellectual style. While Caucasian skin across BCN burns, peels, and tans you hold haughty your scholarly position and epidemiological health. That’s great, my Sagittarian friend, but the beach is more than sun damage… there’s laughter to laugh and smiles to smile. Get out from under your rock!
BCN
Week
13
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EXHIBIT
home run! GARY BASEMAN’S VENISON /// MERCADO DEL BORNE /// TIL OCT 15 BY
in association with
Week BCN
Ana Calzada
Venison is the latest work by the American artist, Gary Baseman. The pop art icon created this collection during his last visit to Barcelona in May 2006. Venison, the main character of this work, symbolizes a new phase of Baseman’s always creative life, a new freedom for the fantastic world of Gary’s creatures, a new wish. The Venison exhibition is about fear, anxiety, vulnerability and unobtainable beauty — all the things that have tormented him since boyhood. There are certain similarities between Baseman’s work and that of the Pop Art movement, but the effect is completely different. Pop artists take images from advertising, the celebrity world and comics and put them on canvas. Baseman, who works mostly in acrylic and oils, also uses images of popular culture but transforms them in his mind, incorporates the icons with his life,
and uses them as alter egos. He paints himself as a cat, a dog, or an evil mouse. As a kid, Baseman was fond of Disney and Warner Brothers cartoons; he did not try to copy the characters because he always felt it was important to develop his own. Today, his artwork is easily recognized because of its consistent style expressed in many different themes, but always creating crazy cartoon animals and humans placed in surreal worlds. There is a combination of both high and low art in Baseman’s work, and the artist says that he “smudges the line between genius and stupidity beyond all recognition.” Indeed, there are these two opposite elements being combined, and that is what makes his art so appealingly different. Recognised and respected, his art can be found in many prestigious permanent collections in museums around the world.
EXHIBIT
but wait,there’s more... TRANSFASHIONLAB
BY
Elliotsdöttir
Here’s more of Transfashionlab, more galleries that you ought to see if LOFT wasn’t enough. Indissoluble: HE AN // ASIAN GRAPHIC DESIGNER Takes Nike ads and slogans and places them in juxtaposition with handicapped and homeless people shoving in our faces the industry’s lack of sensibility… WELL DONE!
We specialize in Caffe Italiano, Breakfast, Juices, Teas, Cakes, Cookies, Tapas, Argentinean Empanadas, Vegetarian Dishes
Thursday Live Music + Free Tapa Saturday Sushi Party Sunday Afro-Cuban Cuisine
Lunch Plate 5.90€ Plaça Santa Caterina, 2 08003 Barcelona 93 268 98 73 Reservas 664 104 934
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ARE YOU IN BARCELONA? DO YOU NEED AN INTERPRETER? BUSINESS MEETING DOCTOR’S APPOINTMENTS TOURISM VISITS
WHEREVER AND WHENEVER YOU NEED AN INTERPRETER CALL OR EMAIL US
ELISABET SEUBA 610 24 35 08 WWW.ELISABETSEUBA.COM / SEUBA@ATTGLOBAL.NET
La Gauche Divine: NÚRIA RIUS// CATALAN PUBLICIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER She’s somewhat monotonous with her Björk-like made-up model being suffocated by her messy wardrobe. La Gauche Divine is a clothing store. If you’re broke don’t even go near it because you might just end up buying the clothing. Off Ample: DAVID LACHAPELLE // AMERICAN PHOTOGRAPHER, VIDEO DIRECTOR Unique, untouchable and sensual style with bizarre vibrant colors. The only bad thing is that even though they make you believe he’s one of the stars of the show there’s only ONE of his pictures. The other ones are supposed to be coming next week or so said someone in the gallery. It’s a pity, because he is amazing… no doubt about that.
CANG XIN // CHINESE PHOTOGRAPHER An inspired investigator of identities. With his pictures he creates a very personal relationship with his camera, the scenery, and the person next to him who he’s trying to become. Interesting work. Muchísimo talento. RAPHAËL DENIS // HAITIAN PAINTER AND PHOTOGRAPHER He intends to save lost memories with his pictures. All the pictures are from the 40’s and 50’s, very expressive and full of discontent. GERARD RANCINAN // FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHER Plastic yet dramatic, like a play on pause, all his models are French celebrities. He reveals a different side of the person, extremely sexy and tons of Mattel dolls… bleeding. PETTER KLASEN // GERMAN PHOTOGRAPHER He’s one of the photographers who started the ¨Figuration Narrative¨ movement in Paris in the 60’s. Definately gets inspired by urban settings, signs, codes, and naked women.
Take an afternoon to visit… after your siesta of course!!!
Classifieds
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Personal classified ads are free. They may be 25 words max in length. Business classified ads are 5 cents a word. DEADLINE Friday at 12:00 noon, the week before publication. HOW TO SUBMIT Send it via email to classifieds@bcnweek.com, fax to +34 93 443 6659, or snail-mail to San Gil 2, bajos 2, 08001 Barcelona
interior. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Top 5 CDs of the Month
Poble Nou Beach Rooms Poble Nou Beach Rooms is a cosy place with lots of natural light in (where else) Poble Nou. A Barcelona classic, the apartment has original ceramic tiled floors. There are 3 bedrooms, each sleeping 2-3 perons. For short-term rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE BLACK HORSE
1_ iLIKETRAins — progress reform 2_ Madrugada — nightly disease
Crayon Box Apartment 3.1
3_ motor —klunk 4_ hot chip — the warning 5_ black cab — altamont diary
The Crayon Box Apartment 3.1 is the beach lovers dream, a 40m2 recently renovated apartment right on the beach, sleeping up to 6 persons. For short-term rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Els Angels
FOR SALE BOAT LIVING Can’t afford an apartment? Buy my boat and live on it in Torredembarra marina or move to Barcelona. Includes full domestic equipment. 49,000¤.contact: sywhitesaurel@hotmail.com
Hostal Fina A basic 2 star hostel located in the very heart of the historical centre of Barcelona, at Portaferrissa, the most commercial street in the city. The hostel offers basic, clean, well conditioned rooms, where you will be able to relax and rest, as most of them are interior and very quiet. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
POPPY NEEDS A HOME Old bike with a lot of character seeks new owner, gets you from A to B if not with a few rattles and squeeks. 30¤ only. contact: francesca.hanson@yahoo.co.uk
FOR RENT GAY ACCOMMODATION IN SPAIN Gay and gay friendly apartments and hotels in Barcelona, Madrid, Sitges, Ibiza and others gays destinations. Consult info@rainbowinspain.com or rainbowinspain.com
BARCELONA THREE STARS HOTEL 36 euros PER PERSON Central located three stars hotel with air conditioning and small kitchen from 36¤ per person in double room. Consult info@rainbowinspain.com or visit www.rainbowinspain.com
BARCELONETA Very nice IKEA renovated 1 bedroom apartment next to the market and subway. Tons of light. 700 ¤. Rafa 616 560 299.
sunny room Room for rent (Urquinaona) Nice bright, fully furnished room, exterior in a comfortable flat, situated in the center. Only 2 minutes from the Metro L1 y L4. 280¤/month all bills included. simon-sparks@excite.com
Hostal Santa Anna The friendly family-owned Hostal Santa Anna is practically on Las Ramblas. The quiet, clean and well maintained hostel has 18 simple rooms with views of the street or
BUTANOMAN
Small, cosy, 1-star, 10-rooms hostel with a familiar atmosphere located in L’Eixample district, 10 minutes on foot from Rambla Catalunya. The rooms are basic, well-lit and sunny, with kitchen access; some have a balcony overlooking the street, and others overlook the large courtyard. 24 hr reception and laundry service for 5¤. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
BY
Hostal Plaza This picturesque, 2-star, 20-room hostel is located between Passeig de Gràcia, Pl. Urquinaona and Pl. Catalunya, in the 1st floor of a modernist building. In the 1st floor, the hostel offers common areas, such as a bar serving drinks and breakfasts with plasma television, and a lounge with sofas and a quieter atmosphere inviting to read and relax. In addition, here is an Internet service for the clients. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hotel Travessera The Hotel Travessera 2 star hotel located right next to Gaudí’s lovely Parc Guell. Hotel Travessera has been recently refurbished and has 23 well-equipped rooms with en suite bathrooms, air conditioning, heating and TV. A good value, for reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Las Flores The Hostal Las Flores is a cosy family-run hostel located right on Las Ramblas. This quaint 1 star hostel is an economical choice, with 22 rooms on 4 floors. Almost all have access to a shared bathroom, except one double room which includes a private en suite bathroom and has a view of Las Ramblas. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Toni BG
Hotel Nuevo Triunfo Great value for money, modern 2-star hotel (opened in 2001), located close to Avenida Paral.lel, a bustling avenue just10 minutes’ walk from Las Ramblas and the historic old town. Its 40 comfortable rooms are fully equipped with ensuite bathrooms, air conditioning, satellite TV and telephone. The hotel also has complementary Internet service for guests and offers breakfast at a reasonable price. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Apartamento de la Paz The spacious 100m2 Apartamento La Paz has a 30m balcony stretching around the building and looks out over Las Ramblas and Port Vell. The apartamento can sleep up to 6 people, and is located on the first floor (no lift access) with lots of natural light. There are 3 double rooms, 1 with 2 single beds, 2 rooms with 1 double bed each. For holiday rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Ballestero A modest, well-maintained, 2-stars hostel of 26 rooms located near Meridiana Avenue, on the corner of Fabra i Puig Avenue, close to the commercial centre of Heron City. The hostel is situated in a 5-floor building with lift. Not especially charming, but it does offer clean, well-maintained rooms. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
BARCO Paula I Have an original experience on the Paula I sailboat (not a houseboat), or as we like to call it the “floating apartment,” located in the Port Vell. The boat can sleep up to 6 people, with 3 cabins with double beds. Watch the curious smiles of your friends when you tell them you’ve stayed on a 40 foot sailboat (not for sailing). Not many people will be able to say they spent their Barcelona vacation on a luxury boat! For short-term rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Crayon Box Apartment 2.1 The Crayon Box Apartment 2.1 is a 40m2 private apartment located on the beachfront of Barceloneta. This newly renovated apartment can sleep up to 4 people in 2 double rooms, one with a large double bed and another with bunk beds. A sofa bed sleeps one more, which is located in the living/dining room which also has a TV and balcony. The kitchen has all the amenities and there is also a full bathroom. The apartment is equipped with heating and air conditioning. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Boquería The Hostal Boqueria is a newly renovated hostel right on Las Ramblas, opposite the lively atmosphere of the Boquería. 15 neat and tidy rooms with TV, air conditioning, heating and private bathrooms, this
is a fairly standard hostel: 2 single beds and a sink in the room. Good value accommodation right in the centre of Barcelona. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Barcelona Ramblas The Hostal Barcelona Ramblas is a brand new and clean hostel located in Nou de La Rambla. The hostel’s 32 rooms are equipped with heating and fans for your comfort. You’ll feel right at home with a TV featuring international channels. The staff at reception are helpful and friendly and speak English, French, German and Italian. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Ciudad Condal Great-value, 21-room hostel located on Rambla Catalunya, one of the nicest streets in the city, right in the heart of Modernist Eixample. All the rooms in this central, clean hostel have ensuite bathrooms, air conditioning, and TV. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Lesseps A modest hostel placed in an old building with a beautiful entrance door, in the popular Gràcia district, an area full of live with a special charm, which still keeps its village atmosphere. It is located a 15 minutes walk to the famous Parc Güell and Passeig de Gràcia. The hostel offers simple, clean rooms; but do not expect a design decoration. However, all of them are equipped with a complete bathroom, and TV. There are double rooms with 1 double bed or 2 individual beds, and triple rooms, which are more spacious. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
BARCO Déjà vu Oceanis 36cc The Déjà vu is a gorgeous 36 foot (11 metres) cruising yacht moored in the marina Port Vell. A Jeanneau Oceanis 36cc, it was built in 2003 and waves the French flag. Outfitted in cherry wood, the boat is equipped with modern comforts, such as satellite TV, kitchen, full bathroom, towels and bed linens, and even slippers in case your feet get cold. Sleeps up to 4. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Apartamento Picasso 32 Up to 5 of you can stay in the 50 m2 Picasso 32 Apartment smack in the middle of the historic and yet trendy district of Born. It has two bedrooms, one with a single bed and the other with two singles. The living/dining room has a TV and 2 sofas, one a sofa bed which sleeps two. The kitchen is fully-equipped, as is the bathroom. A small balcony gives a good photo-op of the gargoyles from the building in front, not something you wake up to every day. AC. For holiday rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Levante Apartament M1 A recently renovated, 95m2 apartment with an excellent location,
which can accommodate 4-8 persons. Located in the heart of the historic Barri Gòtic, it is a basic, cosy apartment, decorated with classical style wood furniture. It offers 3 bedrooms: one with 3 individual beds, one with a double bed, and the third with 2 individual beds. For short-term rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Travessera Apartments A private, welcoming apartment with daily cleaning service and towel/linen change located inside a 1-star hotel, next to Hospital Sant Pau. Sleeps up to 3 persons. For short-term rentals, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hostal Rembrandt Hostal Rembrandt is a clean, wellrun 28 room hostel in an unbeatable location on Portaferrisa. Can you ask for a more central location? visit www.barcelona30.com for reservations.
Arc de Triomf Room Short-term rental in a double room for 1 or 2 persons with en suite private bathroom and TV in gorgeous shared apartment. apartment is right by Arc de Triomf metro station (line 1) and Renfe regional train station. Visit www.barcelona30.com.
Hotel Climent The 1 star Hotel Climent is located on the Gran Via in a 7 storey building with 5 rooms on each floor. The rooms are neat and clean, with minimal decor. They have an en suite bathroom, heating, TV and telephone. All rooms are exterior, with natural light, and are sufficiently soundproofed with windows with double paned glass to guarantee a good night’s sleep. The hotel is well-maintained and is wheelchair accessible. Breakfast included. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
Pension Cortes Pension Cortes is a basic, clean hostel located in beautiful old building on Gran Via. Rooms are clean and cosy with single beds. Although the rooms overlook the street, it is relatively insulated from street noise. Metro station Urgell. For reservations, visit www.barcelona30.com.
WANTED DIVE Young and creative couple- her photographer, him artist looking for a cheap dive to live in. central barcelona or gracia. unite against middlemen! murray 600 706 442
bike needed Any type can be interesting. If it’s old and not damaged — perfect. If it’s a bit more modern, ok! But don’t want to pay more than 100¤. schwester_polyester@yahoo.com
TV donation Necesito que me regale TV Busco una tele para que pueda disfrutar mi tiempo libre — me aburro mucho y me gustaria ver todo estas telenovelas de cuales esta hablando todo el mundo. Una en blanco y negro me serviria tambien! rosa23valles@yahoo.es
english classes American English teacher looking for private students starting in July. 12¤/hour. Adaptable, responsible, creative. Serious inquiries only. hleben@gmail.com
LOOKING FOR ROOM Hi! Soy Gaby, chica de 31 aòos, working for BCN WEEK. I’m looking for room or piso in BCN, close to the beach or in very center. If you know anything: gaby@bcnweek.com.
AND SERVICES VAN AND DRIVER FOR REMOVALS AND CARGO TRANSPORTATION Inexpensive, safe and flexible. Any day, any time. Barcelona / Catalunya. 647533344 / 933291363 www.vanbcn.com
MASSAGE EXCHANGE Seeking to start a small group of people doing bodywork at any level and willing to exchange sessions for the joy of it. I do Hawaian Lomi Lomi, Ayurvedic Yoga, Reiki and Metamorphic massage. galileanin@gmail.com
AND I SAW YOU Did u see someone you like? Need to get a message across? Too shy to say it to their face? Then BCN WEEK’s ‘I SAW YOU’ is for you! Be sure to tell us who you are (man/woman) who/ what you saw (man/woman/badly parked car... etc) when? where? why? email or contact detail required. L1 SEXY BANDIT You got on, Arc de Triomf. Saw you pinch another girl's wallet, get off at glòries. There was something in our eye contact, mystery. Same time next week?
OR WE COULD WATCH TETSUO I see you in the library on C/St. Pere més baix sometimes. You only ever check out DVDs & u carry one of those big Berlin type messenger bags. We've said hi, would you like to have a coffee?
I'M NOT A NICE GIRL Met you in Casa Paco on Sat. night. Had this involved conversation and there was sth. Then your girlfriend walked in & u were gone. I like you, we could just hang out. chuchiguachi@ya.com
HOT BLOND, HOT BEACH, LOUD FRIENDS Víla Olímpica in front of the fish 16.7. You long blond hair, beautiful all over. Sitting on blanket with obnoxious friends. I work at Nubaa, come by.
I NEEDED THOSE BOOKS Last week you stole a bag from under my table at Kasparo. All it had were books I'd just bought from Central. If you're not too big an asshole, would you just leave it back at the bar? Please?
cartoon character I see you working at the post office and sometimes walking up Pelayo to Pl Universitat. I was just wondering...are you really that guy from Mortadelo y Filemón??
Massive panic attack Summercase. Massive Attack. You cried when Elizabeth Fraser sang. I saw the tears stream down your cheek. Are you a suicidal freak?! Let’s jump off the A7 overpass!
BCN
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Micro Mesh
www.americanapparel.net
Erica is wearing our new Micro-Mesh Bodysuit, now available online and at our stores. We promise to come to Barcelona soon and open a store there. In the meantime we’re offering BCN Week readers free shipping when you shop online until September 30th. Just enter the following promo code when you get to checkout: BCN2006. To learn more about our company, to shop online, and to find all store locations, visit our web site.
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