Cooking With: Horace & Sylvia's Brian Fugit Patch talks with the new executive chef at the revamped Publick House. By Jacqueline Sweet | March 10, 2011
The cozy fireplace and laid-back atmosphere, coupled with an elevated comfort food menu, lends Horace & Sylvia's a gastro pub vibe, appreciated by a steadily growing and loyal clientele. The restaurant recently changed ownership and also underwent a changing of the guard in the kitchen. The new menu and decor has been garnering positive reviews, and this week as part of our ongoing series, Patch spoke to the new chef to find out how they did it and what to watch for in the future. Chef: Brian Fugit Age: 30 Culinary experience: Fugit started out in the kitchen by working at chain restaurants while in college, and then earned his chops at several Long Island hotels. He worked at the Hyatt Regency and the Crowne Plaza, where he says he "learned from the best." Prior to being tapped to man Horace & Sylvia's by owner Carl Clausen, he was sous-chef at the Hamptons spot The Patio which recently closed. The details on the changeover: Fugit explains that although the restaurant at first started out strong, by last year they were getting "beat up on their food" and needed to strip out the extraneous theme nights and just focus on the food again. "They lost focus on the kitchen," Fugit says. The new menu continues in the vein of classic American cuisine but with some Mediterranean elements, with more to come, according to Fugit. A new beer dinner has allowed Fugit to exercise creativity, as patrons who come for the microbrew and craft beer experience are open to innovative pairings. The reservation-only events feature four experimental courses, such as a recent offering: swordfish with apricot risotto and avocado egg roll.
Why should a diner choose Horace and Sylvia's? Fugit acknowledges that in a "restaurant hub" like Babylon Village, an eatery has to stand out or fill a niche. "We have a different clientele, who are looking for casual but exceptional food." A nightly prix fixe is still a popular choice, and some of the signature dishes are still around, like the popular meatloaf, but Fugit says there are also exciting culinary innovations in the near future. "We're free to do anything in the kitchen." Advice for aspiring chefs: "Work at the busiest places you can," Fugit instructs. Working in a hotel kitchen prepared him for the rigors of a busy service, and taught him how to please a demanding high-end clientele. Chefs in a hotel, Fugit mentions, "do as good a job as anyone." His last meal?: "Chicken Parmesan and my mom has to make it," Fugit laughs. "No one can make it like she can, not even me."