Civita di Bagnoregio Rises From the Fog
BY TIFFANY EASTHAM
Seeing Civita di Bagnoregio rise out of the fog was like the first time I emerged from the metro in Rome, gazing up at the base of the Colosseum. All I could do was stare and admire. “The Dying City,” perched on this volcanic hill, appeared to hang in mid-air, and to some extent, it does. As its base continues to crumble with time and erosion, you can almost hear the cliffs creak under the weight of the wind that whipped through the Valle dei Calanchi below. My now husband and I had just spent the last few days wandering through Rome, absorbing all the major sites shoulder-to-shoulder with other eager tourists. We returned to our hotel that afternoon, just steps from St. Peter’s Basilica, and listened as Pope Francis conducted a public mass to a large assembly of people outside our window. An incredible bucket list experience for sure, yet we were spent from the city crowds, city noises, and— literally—city prices. As we lounged on our bed, eating
pizza straight from its takeaway box, I began to research lesser-known towns and landmarks near Rome that might catch my attention. It was time for something off the beaten path. I stumbled upon a picture of Civita di Bagnoregio online and stopped scrolling. “There’s no way this place is real,” I gasped to Ken. It looked like an island floating in the clouds—the perfect setting seemingly sprouted from a film director’s imagination. But no, Civita was unbelievably real and full of history. This timeworn town is located in Viterbo, a province in the Lazio region. Just 75 miles north of Rome, it makes for a perfect day trip. Civita di Bagnoregio was founded by the Etruscans, Italy’s ancient people, more than 2,500 years ago. Their ancient civilization, known at one time as Etruria, covers the modern regions of Tuscany, Lazio, and Umbria. Civita was a thriving town in the earliest centuries
A full view of “The Dying City.” (Shcherbina Valeriy)
SPRING 2021
10
ITALIAN AMERICA
