15 minute read
Italian America
Civita di Bagnoregio Rises From the Fog
BY TIFFANY EASTHAM
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Seeing Civita di Bagnoregio rise out of the fog was like the first time I emerged from the metro in Rome, gazing up at the base of the Colosseum. All I could do was stare and admire. “The Dying City,” perched on this volcanic hill, appeared to hang in mid-air, and to some extent, it does. As its base continues to crumble with time and erosion, you can almost hear the cliffs creak under the weight of the wind that whipped through the Valle dei Calanchi below.
My now husband and I had just spent the last few days wandering through Rome, absorbing all the major sites shoulder-to-shoulder with other eager tourists. We returned to our hotel that afternoon, just steps from St. Peter’s Basilica, and listened as Pope Francis conducted a public mass to a large assembly of people outside our window. An incredible bucket list experience for sure, yet we were spent from the city crowds, city noises, and— literally—city prices. As we lounged on our bed, eating pizza straight from its takeaway box, I began to research lesser-known towns and landmarks near Rome that might catch my attention. It was time for something off the beaten path.
I stumbled upon a picture of Civita di Bagnoregio online and stopped scrolling. “There’s no way this place is real,” I gasped to Ken. It looked like an island floating in the clouds—the perfect setting seemingly sprouted from a film director’s imagination. But no, Civita was unbelievably real and full of history.
This timeworn town is located in Viterbo, a province in the Lazio region. Just 75 miles north of Rome, it makes for a perfect day trip. Civita di Bagnoregio was founded by the Etruscans, Italy’s ancient people, more than 2,500 years ago. Their ancient civilization, known at one time as Etruria, covers the modern regions of Tuscany, Lazio, and Umbria. Civita was a thriving town in the earliest centuries
A full view of “The Dying City.” (Shcherbina Valeriy)
BC and continued to flourish through the medieval period despite succumbing to Roman power. It also served as an important settlement for the Etruscans, and eventually the Romans, due to its prime location along major trade routes of the time. Additionally, its location atop a staggering hill made it easily defendable and protected it from lowland floods and outbreaks of malaria that coursed through towns nestled along the river below.
The city’s unfortunate decline began during the 14th century when the majority of its population was annihilated by the plague that swept across Italy. It did see a resurgence in the following centuries with social and economic growth, but the year 1695 marked a devastating turning point that threatened the longevity of “The City in the Sky.”
Local residents had gradually begun to relocate to nearby, more stable ground due to ongoing earthquakes and landslides that rattled Civita’s core. The massive earthquake of 1695 struck Civita with such devastation that not only created irreparable damage to its fragile buildings, but also caused an entire eastern section of the cliffside to collapse and plummet into the jagged ravine below. This ultimately drove many of the remaining residents away and would contribute to the city’s continual decay in the following centuries, lending it the name La Città che Muore, or “The Dying City.” Today, the current population of permanent residents range from just five to ten individuals, with many of the shop and restaurant owners living nearby in the sister town beneath, known as simply Bagnoregio, due to the ongoing geological threats.
As a tourist myself, I sometimes worry about the impact that my own travels may have on such ancient landmarks as they succumb to the strain of mainstream tourism. “The Dying City,” on the other hand, has been given a new lease on life because of the positive impact that tourism has had in recent years. With ongoing, inevitable destruction along Civita’s borders comes the need to protect and save the crumbling plateau. Interestingly, Civita is the only city in Italy to charge an entrance fee. The five or so euros it charges per person has continued to help fund preservation and maintenance work in an effort to save what is left of the town. In a way, tourism has truly saved Civita, and with its future uncertain, it has experienced an increase in visitors eager to catch a glimpse of this special place while they still can.
The 984-foot-long bridge that connects Bagnoregio to Civita di Bagnoregio. (Valerio Mei)
The rock face of the hill upon which the city is perched. (ermess) The narrow, winding walkways inside the city. (canadastock)
So, after doing my research, I was convinced that we needed to make the trip to see this ancient city. We managed to find train tickets leaving Termini station to Orvieto, where we would taxi up to Bagnoregio. There was a bus that was a cheaper option than the taxi, but I knew that the schedules for these smaller towns are sparse and often unreliable. Many visitors also arrive by car, though I personally haven’t mustered enough courage to attempt to drive in Italy yet!
Our first glimpse of Civita came from a lofty lookout point that made the nearby city appear miles away. In the distance, the morning fog was beginning to clear and revealed the colossal base of Civita’s towering façade that jutted toward the sky. Fortunately for us, the fog gave way to a clear day in early summer that allowed for panoramic views of other distant mountains and rugged, green landscapes. I fumbled for my phone as others around me also did to capture what we saw.
We purchased our entry tickets and began the ascent up Civita’s only accessible footpath. This 984-foot-long bridge connects Bagnoregio to Civita and has had its own fair share of instability and erosion resulting in the need for ongoing renovation. We took our time walking up, not only to catch our breath, but to also take in the views and stay clear of the Vespas and small trolleys that zoomed past to transport goods up to this medieval gem.
At the top, we were greeted by Porta Santa Maria, a centuries-old archway that transported us back into the town’s history once we stepped through it. Several cats strolled beside us inside the brick tunnel, almost as if they were leading us to Piazza San Pietro, a small town square dotted with hanging flower baskets and rustic stone walls. We walked farther down this slender street that opened up to Piazza San Donato, where the town’s main church of the same name stands. With only a handful of restaurants and other small attractions around—such as a small, working farm and the tiniest museum I’ve ever seen—I quickly realized that the biggest attraction in Civita was Civita itself.
We stopped for an Aperol Spritz and some bruschetta at a café tucked around a corner, offering us the opportunity to really appreciate the slower pace and quietness of this little town. We later chatted briefly with a local woman who, through broken English, thoughtfully explained how over the decades she has witnessed cliff-side houses give way and collapse into the valley below. “It’s sad,” she shrugged, “but what can you do?”
As we approached the end of our passeggiata— wandering through rusted wrought iron gates, exploring garden terraces full of crumbling bricks, and navigating more twisted stone stairways than we could count—it was time to make our way back to reality and catch our returning train to Rome.
My last glimpse of Civita was at the base of the footpath. I stared up at the overgrown vines and other greenery around nearly every wall and railing. It was so beautiful it almost seemed intentional. Though the instability of Civita di Bagnoregio is obvious and its ultimate downfall seems inevitable, perhaps its life and history can be prolonged for many more generations and for many more eyes to see.
Tiffany Eastham (globeluster@gmail.com) is a freelance writer and international travel enthusiast. Catch her in a nearby cat café planning for the next bucket list destination.
OSDIA Launches Shared Member Profiles
The Order Sons & Daughters of Italy in America (OSDIA) are proud to introduce their newly launched “OSDIA Member Profiles” initiative designed to allow all members to connect with each other for purposes of networking, travel advice, genealogy, book/movie/recipe recommendations, etc. It is important to know that, though they are a great way to connect with members from across the country, the OSDIA Member Profiles are completely voluntary.
In order to be a part of the OSDIA Member Profile community, you must log into your Member Account on www. osia.org. If you do not know your Member Account information, please contact your Grand Lodge or Subordinate Lodge.
Once you log in, you will see on the left side two new tabs: “My OSDIA Shared Member Profile” and “Search OSDIA Shared Member Profiles.”
If you click on the tab “My OSDIA Shared Member Profile,” it will take you to a form where you can fill out as much information as you want to share. You will see several areas in which you can share all sorts of information that can help you connect with OSDIA members across the country. Please be sure to click the consent button at the top so that your profile gets shared.
If you click on the tab “Search OSDIA Shared Member Profiles,” it will take you to a search form that you can use to search for other shared Member Profiles using general or specific search criteria.
Would you like to find members who have ancestors from Abruzzo? You can connect! Would you like to find members who have traveled to Calabria? You can connect! Would you like to find members who work in the same field as you? You can connect!
There are many reasons for all of us in the OSDIA community to connect with one another and now we have a way to do just that—no matter the geographic distance is between us!
Need Help Logging In? If you need help logging in to your Member Account on www.osia.org, please contact your Grand Lodge or Subordinate Lodge (if your lodge does not have a Grand Lodge).
An Aussie in Italy
Finding a Piece of the Good Life
I grew up in Perth, Western Australia, which functions like a big country town. I was working in the real estate industry, and this is where my passion for property started. I was fascinated with buying old properties and restoring them into absolute masterpieces. Back in 2000, Perth went through a mini-recession, so I moved to London with the idea of staying a year and traveling around Europe. One of the first places I visited in Europe was Italy.
In Florence, beauty surrounded me at every corner. I had never seen anything like it. For a Perth girl, seeing such ancient architecture and history felt like a whole new world. I fell in love with it instantly and said to myself, “One day, I am going to retire here.” But because I was only 21, the thought of retirement didn’t really cross my mind much, so the dream of living in Italy was forgotten.
During my time in London, I traveled to Italy five or six times. With each visit, my love for this beautiful country grew stronger. Still, I hesitated to make the move because I was making career connections in London.
Fast forward almost 15 years and I was living in Sydney, working 12-hour days in the investment banking industry. I felt completely burnt out. I knew that I wanted more from life than being stuck in an office 12 hours a day. One night, while sitting at an Italian restaurant with a friend, I said, “I am going to leave Sydney and move to Italy.”
She thought it was the wine talking.
But I was serious. I had a UK passport from living in London for 12 years, so logistically, I knew I could make it happen. I didn’t let the small detail of not knowing any Italian deter me (nor the fact that the country was in an extreme economic crisis). I started learning basic conversational Italian at a language school in Sydney, and the wheels toward Italy were in motion.
After four months of learning Italian, I sold all of my furniture, left the security of my career in banking, and moved to Bolzano (Trentino-Alto Adige region) with four suitcases. All of my friends and family thought I was crazy, yet at the same time they admired me for my courage. Upon arriving in Bolzano, I found a marketing position, which required English, at a global luxury real estate firm.
As much as I loved the village and the stunning mountains of Bolzano, I naturally missed the beach. I guess that’s the Aussie in me—having grown up by the beach, it’s part of my soul. I knew that the best beaches in Italy were in the south, so I started doing some research. I remembered that my Italian teacher in Sydney was from the Puglia region, down in the heel of the boot.
I googled Puglia and fell in love with the stunning coastline and quaint Baroque-style seaside towns. I moved to Monopoli and started working for a real estate and luxury holiday rental firm there. My role was to oversee all the international client real estate transactions.
It was then that I realized a common theme among my clients, many of whom had the same questions, doubts, and fears about purchasing a property in Italy. They wanted to understand the process and learn how they could manage Italian property while living overseas. This is what inspired me to create a Facebook global community called “How to Confidently Buy Property in Italy and live La Dolce Vita.”
The group connects me to interesting people from all over the world. Many of the members are Italian Americans with a dream of connecting to their family heritage by purchasing property in Italy. And who could blame them for wanting their own slice of la dolce vita?
Certainly not I.
Nikki sits among the trulli between the towns of Ostuni and Martina Franca, where she lives.
(Maximilliano Tenuta)
Nikki Taylor manages a Facebook group called “How to Confidently Buy Property in Italy and live La Dolce Vita,” where professionals help guide members on how to navigate their way through the Italian property system with ease and confidence.
TONY LAZZERI:
Yankees Legend and Baseball Pioneer
By Larry Baldassaro
Before there was Joe DiMaggio, there was Tony Lazzeri. The de facto captain of the Yankees during the days of Murderers’ Row, Lazzeri was second in popularity only to Babe Ruth. Unfortunately, Lazzeri’s monumental contributions—both on and off the field—have gone largely unnoticed, something that biographer Larry Baldassaro seeks to change.
A laconic boy from San Francisco, Lazzeri battled his way to the big leagues, combatting not just opposing pitchers but also epilepsy. What he brought to the Yankees was one of the first second basemen to ever hit for power and a leader that every teammate sought for advice. Yet, as this biography so aptly depicts, what he brought to American culture was by far greater.
DID YOU KNOW?
The first Italian-American baseball player was Ed Abbaticchio, who debuted with the Philadelphia Phillies in 1897.
At a time when anti-immigrant and anti-Italian sentiment ran high, Lazzeri upended Italian-American stereotypes. Such stereotypes, as Baldassaro shows, pervaded sportswriters’ columns as did the epithets that came with them. In addition to disproving stereotypes, Lazzeri is the player who brought Italian Americans to the ballpark—both figuratively and literally. Because of him, baseball quickly became the sport of choice for Italian-American boys.
Perhaps what truly makes this biography inspiring is the kind of man Lazzeri was. He faced and surmounted a steady stream of doubt and unfairness that plagued him through life in spite of his successes. Yet he never took his personal struggles out on others, going so far as to even develop the very player who replaced him.
It is in this—the journey of a man who not only shaped culture, but did so in a humble and dignified way—that makes Lazzeri a most worthy choice for a biography.
ETERNAL
By Lisa Scottoline
Set in Rome—the “Eternal City”—during Mussolini’s rule through the 1930s and early 1940s, Eternal delves into the city’s experience under Fascist rule and particularly focuses on the people’s reaction to the establishment of anti-Jewish laws. In Italy, Jews were not seen as separate. After all, they had lived in Rome since before the Romans. But once Mussolini formalized his alliance with Hitler, all of that changed, drawing the ire of the Italian people.
Eternal depicts this course of events through three main characters—Elisabetta, Marco, and Sandro—who grew up in Rome as childhood friends. They come of age at the time when Mussolini aligns with Hitler, which causes each of their respective paths to diverge in ways that are influenced by their respective backgrounds. When Mussolini is deposed and Nazi soldiers assume control of the city, their lives are all threatened in different ways and for different reasons.
One thing that sets Eternal apart from other novels set during this time period is how it highlights the support Fascism received from ordinary citizens as opposed to portraying all supporters as fanatics or zealots. This created strong dissension not just amongst the public, but also within households, and Scottoline’s storyline illustrates the divisiveness that Mussolini brought to Italy and how it tore families apart instead of uniting them.
Through the various experiences of its characters, Eternal shows that—regardless of how divided Italy was under Mussolini—the country ended up suffering as one. But it is the ways in which these characters intertwine that show how Italians chose “One Italy” borne from love over Mussolini’s “One Italy” fueled by hate.
DID YOU KNOW?
About 10,000 of Rome’s approximately 12,000 Jews survived World War II, much in part because they were hidden in the Vatican, monasteries, convents, and homes.
