ORCAS ISLAND
SMALL TOWN HOSPITALITY AND WHALE TALES
COLORFUL SPRING IS ON ITS WAY
Year-round recreation, jaw dropping beauty, and true Bavarian charm meet in surprising ways in the heart of the Northwest. Book your adventure today. leavenworth.org
Dessert before dinner
We know, we know. Dessert is supposed to come after supper. But here in Seaside you can do all the things in any order you want.
Arcade before breakfast? Sure. Ride a swan boat backwards? Go for it!
Feed the seals then fly a kite and have pancakes for dinner… it’s vacation!
An hour’s drive from Medford, Crater Lake is Oregon’s only national park and the deepest lake in the United States. An experience of a lifetime, you’ll be in awe of its pristine blue water surrounded by sheer, breathtaking cliffs. Hike, swim or take a boat ride to Wizard Island.
Named one of the top global wine destinations by Forbes and Wine Enthusiast, the awardwinning Rogue Valley Wine Country is quickly being recognized for its boutique wineries and charm. 70 varietals and 53 tasting rooms dotted among four wine trails await your visit.
The rich soils and mild climate that make wine-making ideal in Southern Oregon also lends to the agricultural mecca in the region. Come ready to experience the World’s Best Cheese at Rogue Creamery, renowned Royal Riviera Pears at Medford-based Harry and David, and locallysourced artisan foods and ingredients at one of the nation’s top-ranked farmers’ market.
If outdoor fun and adventure is on your bucket list, a visit to the Rogue Valley is a must. The Rogue River is designated as one of the country’s Wild and Scenic Rivers and boasts Class V rapids among its 216-mile stretch. Whether you raft, kayak, tube or paddleboard, you’re sure to have thrills and spills while appreciating incredible forest and wildlife sights.
Scan the code to download a map or visitor guide.
PHOTO CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ISTOCK.COM/RUKSUTAKARN ALAMY.COM/GARY
VISITORS
23 ALASKA
9 SMART TRAVEL
Air and road travel tips for spring and summer vacations. Learn to avoid distracted driving. Find event and entertainment deals offered exclusively to AAA members.
17 ON THE ROAD
Whale Watch Week kicks off along the Pacific Coast. Where to find art, music, films and flowers this spring.
27 WEEKENDER
Orcas Island, WA is a ferry ride away to smalltown adventure.
30 GETAWAY DUNES
Sand dunes of the West stoke both imagination and recreation.
36
17 2023
Learn why e-bikes are the world’s new favorite way to tour: what to buy and how to be safe.
42 DESTINATION OJAI, CALIFORNIA
PUBLISHED BY OREGON MEDIA, LLC
974 NW Riverside Blvd. Bend, Oregon 97703 oregonmedia.com
Contact advertising: sales@oregonmedia.com
Editor in Chief Cheryl Parton
Managing Editor Teresa Ristow
Staff Writer Lydia Hagen
Copy Editor Stephanie Boyle Mays
DESIGN
Creative Director Kevin Prieto
Associate Creative Director Kelly Alexander
Senior Graphic Designer Cali Clement
Graphic Designer Jeremiah Crisp
Creative Consultant Tiffany Paulin
Print Coordinator Clarke Fine
SALES
Senior Account Executive Susan Crow
Senior Account Executive Ronnie Harrelson
Business Development Sage Gripekoven
Sales and Marketing Assistant Tom Gillespie
Office Manager Heather Renee Wong
Project Manager Katryna Vecella
Circulation Manager Amara Spittler
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Lucas Alberg, Garrick Ramirez, Dan Shryock, Susan Sommer, Matt Wastradowski
Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues).
Change of address: Allow four weeks advance notice. Call (888) 422-2503 or email the Membership Department at membership@AAAoregon.com.
Contact editorial: viaeditorial@oregonmedia.com
Contents copyrighted ©2023 by AAA Oregon/Idaho. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. 510,663 COPIES.
Via (ISSN 2473-5183) is published bimonthly by Oregon Media, LLC, 70 SW Century Dr. STE 100, Bend, OR 97702. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Bend, OR, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to VIA, Membership Records, 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201.
Proudly printed in Oregon.
ON THE COVER
Berkeley enjoying the arrival of spring at Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm, Woodburn, Oregon.
With the arrival of spring, many of us are making plans for our next travel adventure. Our family is looking forward to an upcoming vacation in Central Oregon.
April is Car Care Month and serves as a reminder to prepare your car for the busy months ahead whether you drive an electric vehicle or a conventional automobile. AAA offers a wide range of resources to help you have a safe and pleasant journey.
First, before you embark on your next road trip, consider having your vehicle inspected at a AAA Approved Auto Repair facility. Our rigorous evaluation process ensures that each shop has the trained personnel and industryleading equipment to keep your car in tip-top shape. To find a location near you, visit AAA.com/autorepair. If your battery is three years old or more, it’s time to have it tested. Please call 1-800-AAA-HELP (222-4357) to schedule a test of your battery and electrical system. Remember the battery test is included in your membership benefits. In most cases, we can replace a weak battery right on the spot. You can also buy a AAA battery at NAPA Auto Parts, where you’ll find discounts on everything your car needs, just for being a AAA member.
In time for spring road trips, we’ve also significantly expanded our EV capabilities to better serve our members, with complimentary charging stations at many of our larger AAA Service Centers. Find detailed listings for hotels with EV charging options in our digital TourBooks (AAA.com/tourbook). With the AAA mobile app, you’ll find charging stations or the cheapest fuel in the area with just a few taps on your screen.
If spring is the time to upgrade your vehicle, the AAA Car Guide will help you find an electric or fuelefficient car that meets your needs. Before you sign on the dotted line, please use AAA’s Your Driving Costs calculator tool to review the total costs of vehicle
ownership—from financing to repair and maintenance costs and more. Find information at AAA.com/carguide and AAA.com/autorepair/drivingcosts
Then, as part of a new 14-city nationwide pilot program, AAA members can now request emergency roadside EV charging services in the Portland metro area and in Bend, Oregon. Our mobile charging trucks are equipped with Level 2 chargers to help EV owners reach a point of safety for additional charging. We’re excited to support the growth of this technology.
Finally, in response to continued membership growth, we’ve also expanded our Fleet operations with new facilities in Medford, Oregon and Meridian, Idaho. As always, our mission is to provide exceptional service when and where our members need us.
How are you getting ready for your next road trip? Please email me at President@AAAOregonIdaho.com or write to me at 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201 or 7155 W. Denton St., Boise ID 83704.
Tim Morgan, President and CEO
bradley J. Hart lake
Karen
oswego HinSdale portlandrandolpH
patriCia
l miller portland C. Smullin medfordmary pat tHompSon boise
Kerry tymCHuK
beavertongina walKer lake oswego
FOR GENERAL INFORMATION CALL (888) 422-2503 OR VISIT AAA.COM
CONNECT WITH US
AAA.com
twitter.com/ AAAoregonidaho
facebook.com/ AAAoregonidaho
instagram.com/ AAAoregonidaho
ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE
(800) AAA-HELP (800-222-4357)
MEMBERSHIP SERVICES
(888) 422-2503
INSURANCE SERVICES
AAA.com/Insurance
Policyholders
(866) AAA-INSURE (866-222-4678)
New sales
(866) AAA-QUOTE (866-222-7868)
TRAVEL SERVICES
AAA.com/Travel
(800) 529-3222
SERVICE CENTERS
AAA.com/Locations
OREGON
Beaverton 8555 SW Apple Way
Bend 20350 Empire Blvd.
Clackamas 10365 SE Sunnyside Rd.
Coos Bay 1705 Ocean Blvd. SE
Corvallis 1836 NW Ninth St., Ste. 110
Eugene 983 Willagillespie Rd.
Grants Pass 1563 NE F St.
Hillsboro 7300 NE Butler St.
Lake Oswego 6 Centerpointe Dr.
Medford 1777 E. Barnett Rd.
Pendleton 248 SW Dorion Ave.
Portland 600 SW Market St.
Roseburg 3019 NW Stewart Pkwy.
Salem 2909 Ryan Dr. SE
Springfield/Gateway 939 Harlow Rd.
Warrenton/North Coast 153 S. Hwy. 101
IDAHO
Boise 7155 W. Denton St.
Idaho Falls 3418 S. 25th East
Meridian 2310 E. Overland Rd., Ste. 110
Nampa 16453 N. Marketplace Blvd.
Pocatello 1000 Pocatello Creek Rd., Ste. E5
Twin Falls 1239 Pole Line Rd., Ste. 315
Whether to text, call or navigate, using a phone while driving is dangerous. In fact, texting and driving can have the same consequences as drinking and driving—serious injuries or death. Plus, it is illegal to text while driving in 48 states, including Oregon and Idaho. To prevent distracted driving, follow these tips: Put your phone out of sight or utilize the Do Not Disturb feature on your smartphone. Turn on your navigation system before you start driving. Or, if there is a passenger in the vehicle, use their help to navigate, to make calls or to send messages. If you need to make a call, pull over to a safe area, and then use your phone. To keep others safe, if you know someone is driving, avoid calling or texting them until they’ve reached their destination safely, or speak up if a driver is distracted. Learn more at AAA.com/dontdrivedistracted.
Get alerts about flight changes, delays or cancellations by downloading each airline’s app on your phone and setting up push notifications. Sites such as FlightAware track incoming flights so you can be a step ahead if your flight is late or canceled.
April is Car Care Month and AAA has partnered with multiple companies to ensure the best deals to keep your car in tip-top shape. Before setting out on an adventure, grab a AAA Premium Battery at NAPA Auto Parts—a highly-rated solution for vehicle battery needs that is backed by a three-year warranty. AAA get $22 off the retail price of a AAA Premium Battery at NAPA. Plus, members save 10 percent on other parts and accessories. Learn more at AAA.com/napa. Replace roughed-up Discount Tire’s Better and Best Tire selections. AAA Members get $10 off per tire. Learn more at AAA.com/discounttire. Then, make sure your car is road-trip-ready with the help of AAA’s network of Approved Auto Repair shops. These shops offer friendly and highly-experienced service staff—technicians are Automotive Service Excellence certified and facilities undergo rigorous inspections by AAA. With more than 7,000 shops in North America, find one close to you using the shop locator. AAA.com/aar
Looking for a smoother aviation travel experience? Travel with TSA PreCheck® for an expedited screening program that makes risk assessments about passengers prior to their arrival at an airport checkpoint. The program has expanded to approximately 200 airports across the country and millions of passengers have enjoyed the benefits of the program since its inception. Find out more and apply at TSA.gov/precheck.
Remember to take care of yourself when preparing for a trip of any length. Roadtrippers and air travelers alike know to slip on a pair of Sockwell graduated compression socks for the ultimate comfort and revitalization. The socks reduce swelling and fatigue during travel so you may better enjoy time at your destination. Find the socks at your local AAA Service Center by searching AAA.com/locations .
Access your AAA membership card at all times by using the AAA mobile app, at AAA. com/mobileapp. Or, log in online and store your membership card in your smartphone’s wallet. Either way, ditch the plastic and opt for a digital-only card when you login to your membership on AAA.com
Packing for a trip, whether for a weekend or a month, benefits from efficiency. For helpful packing tips, join AAA’s Anne McAlpin at a Travel Smart Pack Right presentation or virtual session. Learn to pack for a two-week trip, prepare for airport security, protect personal data or how to pack for a cruise. Visit AAA.com/events.
When planning your next outing, look for deals at AAA Tickets and save up to 30 percent. Whether for movies, a Major League Baseball game, adventures at Disneyland® or Legoland®, even for a Broadway show, AAA Tickets has exclusive member discounts on popular events and entertainment nationwide. Discover more at AAA.com/tickets.
Celebrate Earth Day this April by volunteering. Get involved during SOLVE’s Oregon Spring Cleanup event, taking place across the state on Saturday, April 22. Founded in 1969, SOLVE’s mission is to bring Oregonians together to improve the environment and build a legacy of stewardship. The statewide, familyfriendly volunteer event provides opportunities to join beach cleanups, inland litter cleanups and habitat restoration projects. Learn more and register for a volunteer project near you at solveoregon.org.
Spring weather poses different driving challenges than winter conditions. While on the road, drivers may confront wind, rain and wildlife emerging from hibernation. So, be aware of obstacles, increased traffic and changing weather conditions to ensure you and your passengers are secure and arrive at your destination safely. Also keep in mind that residential, shopping and recreational areas tend to have more pedestrians, especially on warmer days, so keep a watchful eye. Spring brings out a noticeable increase of two-wheel vehicles including bicycles and motorcycles, so remember to share the road. Stay calm and remain patient as road construction increases, and expect to slow your driving for pothole repairs and highway maintenance. To be sure you have the right coverage in the event of a spring driving incident, visit AAA.com/insurance to contact a AAA Insurance Agent.
AAA members enjoy discounts and travel planning support on domestic and international travel, from cruise vacations to European tours and family destination travel packages. See AAA.com/viatravel.
FRANCE
Impressions via the Seine
Discover visions of Paris, made famous by impressionist painters on a thirteen-day guided journey along the Seine River. Hosted by Anne McAlpin, the experience explores popular sites and hidden gems of the City of Light, plus offers guided tours, whether meandering through the gardens of Monet’s famed Giverny or biking through charming cities such as Vernon. Visit the walled city of St. Malo (pictured) and the magical monastery of Mont St. Michel—only accessible at low tide. Taste plentiful wine, cheese and chocolate during this all-encompassing land and cruise adventure. From $6,179* per person.
Wildlife and Glaciers
Embark from Seattle on a magical seven-day roundtrip Alaska adventure. Cruise by views of Glacier Bay National Park with its whale-watching opportunities. Take in snowdusted peaks and forests saturated with greenery. Keep an eye out for wildlife, including bears as they emerge on the beaches. From $509 per person.
Autumn Adventure
A wonderland each fall, Canada’s nature bursts forth in golds, oranges and yellow hues. Cruise past coastal towns, storybook landscapes and see amazing wildlife, including views of gray whales as they return from wintering in the south. In ten days, travel from New England to Canada’s eastern coast. From $1,399 per person.
Historic Elegance
Views of rolling farmland and the spectacular Irish Sea take adventure seekers on a fourteen-day journey through England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales. Spot Stonehenge and enjoy a traditional afternoon tea in London. Feel like royalty on an exploration of York, Roman ruins and tours of Edinburgh and London. From $3,799 per person.
Spectacular Rockies
Natural wonders fill the Rocky Mountains and the wilderness of Alberta. Discover Banff National Park. See the Columbia Icefield on an exclusive before-hours tour, or take an after-hours visit to the Glacier Skywalk. Plus, explore Jasper National Park, all on this unforgettable nine-day trip. From $5,763 per person.
The northern migration of the majestic gray whale takes place each spring, and the Oregon coast gives visitors a front row seat. In winter, some 18,000-20,000 gray whales travel south to the warm waters of Baja, Mexico and starting in late March, head back towards Alaska. During Spring Whale Watch Week (March 28-April 2) trained volunteers will be stationed at designated locations along the coast to help visitors spot not only whales, but other marine mammals in one of the most organized whale-watching programs in the United States. The best way to see a whale is to scan the ocean through binoculars, and look for a vertical show of a whale’s spout as it rises from the horizontal plane of the ocean. Watch for the whale’s tail, called a fluke, as it makes a splash. Lucky scouts may even see a whale breaching, or jumping, out of the water. Visit the Whale Watching Center in Depoe Bay to enjoy interactive whale exhibits and panoramic ocean views, with binoculars provided. See orwhalewatch.org
In a scene reminiscent of Holland, the 38th annual Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival puts on a colorful show March 17-April 30 at the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm in Woodburn, Oregon. Forty acres of more than 100 varieties of tulips are planted each year. The grounds offer more than 200 acres of outdoor space with picnic areas, a children’s play area, and a market to buy lunch or to buy bulbs to plant at home. See woodenshoe.com
From March 29-April 2, in Ketchum, Idaho, the Sun Valley Film Festival celebrates the magic of storytelling with a slate of film premieres and screenings, industry panels and discussions with entertainment luminaries and award-winning writers. The Festival invites guests to be part of Sun Valley’s legacy of artistic expression. See sunvalleyfilmfestival.org.
The Rogue Valley Symphony presents “Masterworks 6: Celestial Pathways,” April 21-22 (in Medford)—April 23 (in Grants Pass). The program includes works infused by nature such as Vítězslav Novák’s “In the Tatras,” a piece of musical poetry inspired by the mountain range in conductor Martin Majkut’s native Slovakia. “The Planets” by Gustav Holst is accompanied by choreographed visuals of the solar system by Seattle-based artist Adrian Wyard. See rvsymphony.org
MUSIC
Treefort Music Festival
The Treefort Music Festival, March 22-26, brings more than 500 bands across multiple genres to stages in downtown Boise. With programming for all ages, kids 12 or younger enjoy the festival free.
Boise River
Greenbelt
Bike along the 25-mile-long treelined Boise River Greenbelt through the heart of the city for scenic views and stops at the manyu parks along the way that gave this pathway a moniker “Ribbon of Jewels.”
Zoo Boise
Visit Zoo Boise to not only connect with animals, but to learn about worldwide conservation of wildlife through education and special events. Kids ages 5-13 may enroll in the Zookeeping Camp taking place March 20-22.
Julia Davis Park
In Julia Davis Park, explore and learn at Boise Art Museum, Idaho Historical Museum, Idaho Black History Museum and the Idaho Anne Frank Human Rights Memorial. All are within walking distance as part of the city’s oldest park in Boise.
The Portland Art Museum presents “Dakota Modern: The Art of Oscar Howe” showcasing one of the twentieth century’s most innovative Native American artists. Howe (1915-1983) painted in a forty-year career dedicated to the preservation and expression of his Yanktonai Dakota culture. Through his abstract canvases, Howe illustrated the simultaneous existence of modern style with customary Sioux culture. “Dakota Modern” traces Howe’s development from his more conventional work in the 1930s through the emergence of his signature style in the 1960s. The exhibition, organized by the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian and the Portland Art Museum is on display through May 14. Refer to the museum’s Conversation Guide for suggestions to spark thinking and conversation before, during, and after your visit to this exhibition and other current shows. See portlandartmuseum.org.
With a four-mile route starting at 4th Avenue and Jefferson, the annual St. Patrick’s Day parade on March 11 in Seattle has been the largest Irish celebration in the Pacific Northwest for nearly half a century. Find Irish dancers, bagpipers, marching bands and Celtic themes. Participants of the parade may travel for free via the Monorail to Seattle Center for the annual Irish Festival Seattle (March 11-12) at the Armory Food & Event Hall as part of their Festál series. See irishclub.org .
WRITTEN BY SUSAN SOMMER
Irememberhearing once that a couple visiting Alaska for the first time brought canned food in their suitcases because they worried about sparse fare upon arrival. My, how times have changed. To be fair, rural Alaska’s grocery store shelves are still sometimes bare of all except the basics. But Anchorage, Juneau, Fairbanks and other hubs today overflow with dining options and distinctive dishes endure across the state—though some require an adventurous spirit to try.
Feel like splurging? Alaskan king crab is the ultimate indulgence. Though the crabbing industry has struggled recently with reduced limits and even closures, king crab feasts can still be found. Tracy’s King Crab Shack in Juneau serves legs and claws in buckets, crab cakes and bisque, all at affordable prices. Find online sources for this ocean delicacy at suppliers such as alaskaseafood.org.
Yaks are “easy keepers” compared to cattle—they eat less, are extremely cold-hardy and a herd will naturally guard against predators such as bears or wolves. Yak meat is lean, and since the animals don’t require “finishing,” their diet is devoid of grains, antibiotics and steroids. Try the yak-a-dilla or yak burger at 49th State Brewing in Anchorage or Denali.
You won’t find akutaq (pronounced a-GOOduk) for sale. This unique treat is an age-old Indigenous concoction of fat, meat and berries that people ate at home or carried with them when hunting. Traditional ingredients included tallow from caribou, moose or walrus, or seal oil; cooked salmon or whitefish; and berries. Modern akutaq uses salmon, Crisco, berries and sugar whipped into a thick mousse. Try akutaq at Nalukataq, the annual whaling festival held each summer in Utqiagvik, the nation’s northernmost town. The event celebrates the spring whaling season among arctic coastal communities.
When summer wanes and fall alights, it’s time to pick salmonberries, blueberries and lowbush cranberries (lingonberries). Everyone loves filling their buckets with these fruits that pack a hefty vitamin C punch. Local lodges bake pies, crumbles, muffins and scones. Salmonberries ripen to a salmon-colored blush in July while blueberries typically appear in August and cranberries are sweetest after a frost. The triple berry crisp at Sheep Mountain Lodge on the Glenn Highway northeast of Palmer is divine and worth every bit of the scenic drive.
Alaskans from all walks of life unite around salmon. Smoked, grilled, canned or dried on open-air racks at remote fish camps, wild salmon is a mainstay. Rich in protein, vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acids, it’s easy to find delicious salmon entrees on local menus—visit Simon & Seafort’s in Anchorage and Double Musky Inn in Girdwood, or go casual at the Alaska Salmon Bake at Pioneer Park in Fairbanks.
Some people are fortunate enough to marry into money; I was fortunate to marry into a destination. My partner of seventeen years grew up on Orcas Island, located off the coast of the northwest corner of Washington state. The biggest of the archipelago, Orcas is shaped like a pair of rugged saddlebags and is 57 square miles of rolling hills and forests dotted with small communities and connected by curvy, scenic roads through the trees.
Though we now live inland in the Pacific Northwest, her family still lives there today. As a result, during the past two decades I’ve spent a lot of time on the island, from summer vacations to holidays and visits in between. A lot has changed during that time, but Orcas still feels like a hidden gem.
The island is certainly no secret, but it never feels overrun or too busy. Somehow, there are always just the right amount of people, whether that be a few sporadic folks on the trail
for a warm hello or a nearly full restaurant to create a vibrant and fun atmosphere. Orcas is the type of place that the more time you spend exploring, the more you’re rewarded.
PlayOne of the best places to meander is Moran State Park. Made up of more than 5,000 acres and 30 miles of trails, it’s the perfect spot for a trail run or a hike—a lap around Mountain Lake is a must. As the weather warms up into late spring and summer, the park offers a swimming option with Cascade Lake, which has a designated swim area as well as paddle boats for rent. Post-swim, drive up the winding road to the top of Mount Constitution, which is the highest point in the San Juan Islands at 2,407 feet. The observation tower at the top, built between 1935-
1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, provides phenomenal views of the surrounding area on a clear day, including the snowy peaks of Mount Baker and Mount Olympus and north to Vancouver, Canada. For a hike on the west side of the island, visit Turtleback Mountain Preserve. Once a hotly contested piece of land for development, the 1,578 acres were purchased in 2006 by the San Juan County Land Bank and turned into a preserve for permanent protection. Less old growth and more mixed forests and open meadows, Turtleback provides a quiet refuge and views across the nearby valley farmlands and Salish Sea.
On sunny days, an exploration along the East Sound coastline by kayak provides hours of fun. Crescent Beach Kayak Rentals is a longstanding kayak rental shop with knowledgeable staff to point you in the right direction. Post-excursion, Crescent Beach itself is a quiet spot for a walk, picnic or to take a moment and soak it all in.
For an adventure, plan a walk at low tide out to Indian Island, which is normally about 100 yards offshore. Negative low tides allow you to walk with dry feet, but if it’s warm enough you can also wade during normal low tides and the water won’t go much past an adult’s knees. Once you arrive, the rocky islet is chock-full of tide pools and is a perfect spot to spy various species of crabs, sea stars and small fish. Just be sure to always keep an eye on the rising tide to make a safe return.
Though the year-round population of Orcas is less than 5,000 people, the steady flow of tourists helps sustain a variety of options for food and drink. Buck Bay Shellfish Farm serves locally caught seafood pulled in right offshore. In town, check out Brown Bear Bakery for pastries or The Kitchen for fresh, Pan-Asian inspired food. For a sweet treat, visit the Clever Cow Creamery for a house-made waffle cone and ice cream. Owned and operated by an Orcas native and sommelier, Cole Sisson, Doe Bay Wine Company has its own label featuring local island artists and serves wine by the glass or bottles to take away. For cocktails, The Barnacle has handcrafted drinks and an intimate atmosphere. If you’re looking to have a pint with the locals, stop at Island Hoppin’ Brewery, the island’s first and only microbrewery.
No weekend getaway is complete without an enticing book. Darvill’s Bookstore in Eastsound has you covered. With well-curated shelves across a variety of genres, plus an excellent in-house coffee shop, it’s an easy spot to let the minutes slip away. Right next door is Crow Valley Gallery, a welcoming shop that features island and Pacific Northwest pottery, fine art and crafts. On the eastside of the island, Orcas Island Artworks is a popular stop for local artwork from paintings to wearables and jewelry.
Established in 1906, the Rosario Resort & Spa features eighty-eight guest rooms and suites and is located right on the water and just minutes away from Moran State Park. The grounds include the Moran Mansion, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and houses waterfront dining, a fullservice spa and a museum. A more modern take, the Outlook Inn in Eastsound offers waterfront lodging, the best brunch spot in town at the hotel’s New Leaf Café and quick access to the town’s many shops and restaurants. For a stay on the quieter side, the Kangaroo House Bed and Breakfast is the longest running B&B in the San Juans with more than forty years of service.
Orcas Island is one of 172 named islands and reefs in the San Juan Islands and—luckily—one of four that receive ferry service. Washington State ferries leave throughout the day from Anacortes, Washington; prices vary depending on vehicle length and height. Flights from Kenmore Air are also available from Boeing Field (SEATAC) and Everett airport. Upon arrival though, Orcas is a place where weekend trips turn into annual ones, and annual ones turn into the year’s best ones – whether you have family on the island or not.
WRITTEN BY MATT WASTRADOWSKI
In 1965, science-fiction writer Frank Herbert published "Dune," a sweeping novel that takes place largely on the planet Arrakis—where natural resources could be extracted from beneath a desert-like sand-covered surface. In writing the epic tome, Herbert found inspiration for the far-off planet in what is now the Oregon Dunes National Recreation area, which stretch more than 40 miles, north to south, along the state’s central coastline.
The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, officially designated as such in 1972, remains a popular outdoor destination today—as do several other dunes throughout the American West. Across the region, state parks, national parks, and other protected lands offer access to windswept dunes where visitors can hike, go sledding, try sandboarding (similar to a snowboard, but designed for sand), ride off-highway vehicles, or stargaze from within the remote outposts. If you’re interested in exploring the dunes of the American West, we’ve rounded up a few favorites, along with ideas for what to do and when to visit these places that seem to appear as if from the pages of a novel.
Some 64 miles south of Boise, Bruneau Dunes State Park boasts the tallest single-structured sand dune in North America—meaning its dune hills, the tallest of which reaches 470 feet, are all connected, rather than
spread out. The best way to experience that expanse is via a 6-mile hiking trail that heads through the park's wetlands, ascends the Big Dune, and follows the shore of the park's pair of lakes. By day, visitors can also rent sleds and sandboards from the park's visitor center; by night, the park's observatory, open on weekends between early April and mid-October, showcases the wonder of the cosmos through a collection of telescopes.
The Oregon Dunes sit on Oregon's Central Coast, with the tallest single dune towering nearly 500 feet above forests of pine, landlocked lakes and the Pacific Ocean. Naturally, opportunities for recreation abound. The 4-mile (round-trip) John Dellenback Dunes Trail, for instance, is a beloved and well-marked, hiking path that begins in a forest before heading through a
series of wide-open dunes. The Oregon Dunes Day Use Area, meanwhile, boasts wheelchairaccessible viewing platforms and, for adventurous hikers, trails that cut through the dunes and head to the ocean. And the area around Winchester Bay, where the Umpqua River flows into the Pacific Ocean, is popular for riding off-highway vehicles. Shane Gill, recreation staff officer with the Oregon Dunes, said that variety is part of what makes the region so appealing. "You can go to one hike, and you're in a rainforest; you can go to another hike, and it's like you're on set in the movie, "Dune" and you go somewhere else, and you're in an off-roader's heaven," he said. A mild climate makes the dunes a popular place to play in summer and early autumn.
Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve sits in southern Colorado, at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and boasts the tallest dunes in North America—all surrounded by grasslands, wetlands, forests, and other scenic ecosystems. The dunefield covers 30 square miles, but visitors typically converge on a lone parking area before crossing Medano Creek and wading into the dunes. Hardy hikers head toward Star Dune, rising 750
TOP View the expansive horizon at Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve, Colorado
BOTTOM There are multiple options for hiking at White Sands National Park, New Mexico
feet, while others traverse the slopes in customized sleds and sandboards, available to rent from retailers near the park entrance and in surrounding communities. When the sun sets, the park’s remote location, high elevation, and dry air make it an acclaimed stargazing destination. Time your visit to autumn, when temperatures are crisp and aspen groves in the surrounding forests pop with vibrant hues of yellow.
The wavy dunes at White Sands National Park are made up of a gypsum, a soft mineral that gives the dunefield a bright white hue that can be seen from outer space. White Sands sits in southern New Mexico and centers around the 16-mile (round trip) Dunes Drive, which heads into the dunefield and offers easy access to shaded picnic sites, five hiking trails (collectively totaling 9.5 miles round trip), and gentle hillsides for sledding. Plastic discs are available at the park’s gift shop. Try timing
your visit to autumn to miss spring’s whipping winds and summer's sweltering heat. Note: The park sits next to the White Sands Missile Range, which occasionally conducts tests that close Dunes Drive. Check the park’s website before visiting to confirm the road’s status. See nps.gov.
Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in southern Utah has reddish sands, made up of eroded Navajo sandstone and, thanks to steady winds, can move as much as 50 feet each year. While many of the parks are geared toward hikers, Coral Pink Sand Dunes is most popular with off-highway vehicle riders. Roughly 90 percent of the park's colorful dunes—a full 1,200 acres—are open to four-wheelers, buggies and other heart-pumping rides. Guided tours are offered if you're curious but lack the requisite gear. For those traveling on two feet, sandboard and sled rentals are available at the park.
Matt Wastradowski is an Oregon-based travel writer who has written for REI , Outside , and Willamette Week . He wrote two guidebooks: Moon Oregon Hiking and Moon Columbia River Gorge & Mount Hood
Please check road conditions before departing on your trip at tripcheck.com for Oregon, 511.idaho. gov in Idaho, udot.utah.gov within Utah and mdt.mt..gov for Montana.
he popular Banks-Vernonia State Trail leading into Oregon’s northwest timber country is decidedly uphill. It’s not steep, but there’s a steady tilt that can make a bicyclist’s legs weary. However, more people are discovering a way to enjoy this remote, forest-shaded bikeway without worrying about getting tired by using pedal-assisted electric bicycles—also known as e-bikes.
Americans looking for a new way to explore the Pacific Northwest are turning to e-bikes to take advantage of vehicle-free routes such as the Banks-Vernonia trail and the North Idaho Centennial Trail, two paths that stretch more than 20 miles. On some models, a rider may need to pedal to get help from a motor, but the benefit is to be able to comfortably ride farther without over-exertion.
The e-bike phenomenon is rolling across the United States. More than 880,000 electric bikes were imported across the country in 2021, according to Ed Benjamin, chairman of the Light Electric Vehicle Association, a number that nearly doubled domestic sales in 2020. Benjamin expects 2022 sales will approach 2021’s level once final totals are tabulated.
The increased interest also can be seen at local bike shops. For example, two rows of high-end electric bikes stand front and center on the sales floor at the Bike Peddler in downtown Salem. “A lot of folks ask about e-bikes,” said store co-owner Kalan Lathrop. “We have been carrying e-bikes since the early 2010s but but they were a fringe part of our business until the past three years.”
Americans are discovering e-bikes are convenient, comfortable, easy to use and fun to ride. Those looking for recreation can take an e-bike onto a nearby country road, a quiet path or even a mountain bike trail.
“E-bikes can be a great tool for folks to experience riding in a way that they couldn’t before,” Lathrop said. “Staying physically active is challenging for some people, and the inertia to overcome is much smaller when you know there’s some assistance there to back you up. Be it commuting, road or mountain biking, it’s virtually impossible to not enjoy a ride on an e-bike.”
There are different classifications for e-bikes and it’s important an e-bike be matched to a rider’s experience.
Electric bicycles operate in two ways—with full electric or pedal-assisted power. “Pedalassist” means one must move pedals for the motor to engage and propel the bike. Stop pedaling and the motor will stop, too.
Many states, including Idaho and Oregon, use a class system to identify one e-bike style from the others. Classes I, II and III all have pedals and motors, and they cannot exceed 750 watts in power output. Some bikes have switches that allow motor power without pedaling. Others do not. It’s important to understand the variations because state and local laws may apply in different ways based on the bike classification and where it is ridden.
CLASS I e-bikes provide assistance up to 20 mph as long as the rider is pedaling the bike. It’s possible to pedal faster than that—for example, when going downhill—but the motor won’t add power at that point. Class I bikes do not have a power switch; keep pedaling.
CLASS II e-bikes operate in two ways. One can pedal with motorized help or turn the throttle on and enjoy the ride without human effort. Either way, the assistance tops out at 20 mph. Riders on these bikes can get their exercise and still select motor-only help when needed, such as when moving up a difficult hill.
CLASS III e-bikes satisfy the need for speed, performing much like Class II bikes with a higher 28 mph limit. Unfortunately, they are not allowed in most recreational settings such as multi-use trails and bicycle paths. These bikes are popular with commuters who want to ride to work without breaking a sweat.
Beyond Class III e-bikes, motorized twowheelers in a fourth class have throttles, and more powerful motors at more that 750 watts. They are not permitted to be used on the road.
Price tags vary depending on an e-bike’s style, functionality and its range of distance. More affordable e-bikes start at about $1,000 and might allow for a range of 15-20 miles. Prices rise to as high as $15,000 for topof-the-line, lightweight road bicycles. Some of the batteries and motors from high-end brands allow riders to cover more distance, sometimes upwards of 90 miles. “Commuter or comfort-style e-bikes will have a lower average price compared to mountain and road-style e-bikes,” Lathrop said.
Keep safety in mind while riding an e-bike by understanding local and state guidelines in your area. In general, remember:
» Electric bikes are heavier than traditional bikes and it may require an investment of time and practice before a rider is comfortable enough to ride on a trail. Because e-bikes can reach speeds of 20 mph or higher, it’s important to stay in control at all times to avoid accidents or injury.
» Transporting an e-bike often requires a strong bike rack or trailer to accommodate the extra weight.
» State and local laws vary on bicycle helmet requirements, but it’s safe to say that a person riding a bike is better protected with a properly worn helmet. Find the best fit with the help of an expert at your local bike shop.
It’s important to understand that state, local, and regional regulations vary and are changing to adapt to the rapidly-growing e-bike landscape. Riders can stay abreast of changes by visiting the website of nonprofit People for Bikes, peopleforbikes.org.
Imagine a new way to take in the sights while on vacation. Electric bikes are becoming a popular recreational rental all over the world. That’s true in places such as Lucca, Italy, where visitors scoot along narrow medieval streets or follow a multi-use path around the top of the city’s famous 2.6-mile earthen wall.
The same is true back in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, where Electric Adventures exclusively rents e-bikes so people can ride the North Idaho Centennial Trail along Lake Coeur d’Alene and overland to the Washington state line. “The trail is flat for about 22 miles but there is a pretty big hill for about two miles, big enough for riders without the right bikes to have to walk to the top,” says owner Luke Snyders. When a day’s excursion is complete, riders in both Lucca and Coeur d’Alene say
much the same thing. “I think most of my customers who rented an e-bike did it for the first time, and they were all excited once they returned,” said Paladino Meschi, owner of Lucca-based Chrono Bikes. In Idaho, Snyders echoed the refrain: “Most of [our customers] say they had a blast.”
Dan Shryock, an Oregon-based travel writer, has roamed from the Willamette Valley to Tuscany and New Zealand in search of cycle tourism stories. He expects to publish a book in 2023 in which he explores rural Oregon by bike.
Bring the beauty of spring indoors with exciting floral arrangements from 1-800-Flowers.com. Save 20% when shopping online.
Bring the beauty of spring indoors with exciting floral arrangements from 1-800-Flowers.com. Save 20% when shopping online.
AAA.com/1800Flowers
AAA.com/1800Flowers
Save an average of $750 on state-to-state moves with Atlas® Van Lines
Save an average of $750 on state-to-state moves with Atlas® Van Lines
AAA.com/AtlasVanLines
AAA.com/AtlasVanLines
Save $30 off on your first in-home pet boarding stay with Rover.com
Save $30 off on your first in-home pet boarding stay with Rover.com
AAA.com/Rover
AAA.com/Rover
Start planning for spring break with AAA Tickets! Enjoy up to 30% savings on tickets to Disneyland® Resort, Universal Studios Hollywood and more
Start planning for spring break with AAA Tickets! Enjoy up to 30% savings on tickets to Disneyland® Resort, Universal Studios Hollywood and more
AAA.com/Tickets
AAA.com/Tickets
Get all your spring cleaning supplies with ODP Business Solutions™ Save up to 75% when shopping online.
Get all your spring cleaning supplies with ODP Business Solutions™ Save up to 75% when shopping online.
AAA.com/ODP
AAA.com/ODP
Save at least 5¢ per gallon every day at participating Shell Stations
Save at least 5¢ per gallon every day at participating Shell Stations
AAA.com/Shell
AAA.com/Shell
WRITTEN BY GARRICK RAMIREZ
With palm trees and aromatic citrus groves bounded by the soaring Topatopa Mountains, it’s little wonder Ojai is regarded as California’s Shangri-la. Set within a mountain-ringed valley 80 miles northwest of Los Angeles, the diminutive town’s oversized scenery and balmy Mediterranean climate have made it a wellness destination long before a Vitamix whirred its first smoothie. In the 19th century, railroad companies lured passengers with the promise to “Go West and Breathe Again” during an era of widespread tuberculosis. Questionable claims aside, Ojai’s ability to soothe is undeniable. Today, it remains a sun-soaked refuge where you can eat well, bask in striking natural scenery, and yes, breathe easy. Ojai takes its name from the Chumash word “Awha’y,” or “moon,” a testament to the area’s first inhabitants. Yet, it’s the town’s utopian moniker that fuels local lore. When author James Hilton conceived Shangri-la—an enchanting and imaginary valley paradise in his 1933 novel Lost Horizon —he could have been describing Ojai. Adding to the mystique is an alpenglow dubbed The Pink Moment that bathes Ojai in warm hues at sunset, a happy byproduct of the valley’s east-west orientation. The resemblance wasn’t lost on director Frank Capra who came to the valley to film his 1937 adaptation of Hilton’s novel. Never mind that any local footage didn’t make the final cut. When Hilton first visited Ojai, he exclaimed, “This is Shangri-la.”
Ojai’s fabled reputation began even earlier with a ploy to boost train ridership after the completion of the transcontinental railroad. Written at the behest of the Central Pacific Railroad in 1873, New York Evening Post editor Charles Nordhoff’s California for Health, Pleasure and Residence extolled the virtues of the sunny region and prompted a migration of wintering visitors. The guidebook proved so influential in shaping Ojai that residents initially named the developing town after the author. One notable visitor drawn by Ojai’s reputed curative powers was a young Jiddu Krishnamurti, the celebrated philosopher who arrived in 1922 with his tuberculosis-stricken brother. Though his brother eventually succumbed to his illness, Krishnamurti fell in love with the town and made it his seasonal home. Over the ensuing years, his lectures on mindful living at his Ojai home drew scores of wellness seekers and practitioners. Many stayed, and Ojai’s culture of wellbeing was enshrined. Today, Krishnamurti’s former home is open to the public as a library and retreat center. Set on a scenic hilltop overlooking the valley, Meditation Mount serves as an ideal intro to Ojai’s wellness focus and natural beauty. The non-denominational center was founded in 1971 to introduce guests to meditative practices such as Sunset Yoga and Sound Meditation. First-time visitors might start with a self-guided tour
of the serene International Garden of Peace, which features a riot of blooms, a rippling lilypad-adorned pond and gobsmacking views of the Ojai Valley. Seating nooks offer quiet contemplation, and QR codes pull up guided meditations—bring your earbuds. You’ll find another peaceful stroll along The Ojai Valley Trail, a multiuse path that follows the bed of a former railway that once exported the town’s famous tangerine, the Ojai Pixie. The route extends 15 miles to the Ventura coast, yet most visitors will be content to amble the leafy, oak-shaded eastern stretch that parallels the town’s main drag, Ojai Avenue.
Downtown Ojai is renowned for whitewashed Mission Revival structures developed in 1917 by Edward D. Libbey, a wealthy Ohioan glass manufacturer and town benefactor who wintered in Ojai during the early 20th century. Inspired by the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, Libbey’s trend-setting designs shunned the prevailing neoclassical style and were soon replicated by neighboring towns such as Santa Barbara. Today, visitors can gaze up at the landmark post office tower, modeled after Havana’s Christopher Columbus Cathedral, and stroll through an arcade filled with shops, wineries and restaurants, all noticeably devoid of chain brands.
On Sunday, the entire town seemingly gathers at a beloved farmers market held a few steps from the arcade. Colorful vendor stands teem with organic produce, local cheeses and fresh-cut flowers. Watch for Ojai Pixies in early spring, and sample the latest pressings from Ojai Olive Oil Company. Located near the entrance to town and along the Ojai Valley Trail, Café BoKU reimagines the pitstop for the 21st century with an inventive plant-based menu, bike tune-up station and rows of EV chargers. You’ll find vegan pastries, nutrient-rich smoothies and entrees such as the BoKU Bowl whose vibrant composition rivals a Matisse canvas with purple sweet potatoes, BBQ jackfruit and a vivid pumpkin seed pesto. As with nearly all Ojai eateries, outdoor picnic tables offer al fresco dining.
TOP LEFT Meditation Mount is known for its panoramic views, sunsets and its mission to help build a more compassionate world.
TOP RIGHT Santa Barbara sea urchin is presented in its spiky shell at Rory’s Place.
BOTTOM LEFT Super Bloom Hibiscus Tacos from Café BoKU.
BOTTOM RIGHT Spa Ojai at night.
Come dinner, the intimate Rory’s Place has the feel of a boisterous dinner party with sister-chefs Rory and Meave McAuliffe overseeing a steady parade of oysters, charcuterie and wood-fired dishes from their kitchen. Regional seafood is a highlight with Santa Barbara sea urchin presented in its spiky shell and a whole Channel Islands spiny lobster fire-roasted with Aleppo chile-infused butter.
TOP LEFT Refresh at Ojai Valley Brewing with a prickly pear and hibiscus-infused ale.
RIGHT Bunk in an Airstream trailer at Caravan Outpost.
BOTTOM LEFT Private ranches source Pixie tangerines throughout the Ojai Valley.
Ojai notably doesn’t allow vacation rentals, instead offering distinctive, boutique properties such as Caravan Outpost where you’ll bunk in one of ten shiny Airstream trailers tucked in a jungle of Mediterranean palms. The twenty-eight-foot units sport sleek, contemporary interiors with a kitchenette, restroom, shower and delightfully comfy bed. Guests can gather in a central outdoor lounge with a Pixie wheat ale from neighboring Ojai Valley Brewery, or kick back on their greenery-shielded patio with a good book. Complimentary use of yellow cruisers allow guests to
zip anywhere in town via the adjacent Ojai Valley Trail. Just like in Ojai, the most rewarding activity might be pausing and simply admiring the verdant surroundings.
Owners Shawn and Brad Steward hail from the outdoor apparel world, and are quick to remind visitors of nature’s proven ability to improve one’s mood. It turns out Nordhoff got it right 150 years ago .
Garrick Ramirez is a freelance writer based in San Francisco. He has written for the San Francisco Chronicle , Condé Nast Traveler, Time Out and Visit Santa Cruz magazines about travel, food and city life.
TRIP
For inspiration, information and deals for your next trip, download the AAA Mobile app and find maps plus discounts on restaurants, lodgings, and more. AAA.com/mobile.
