AAA Via - January/February 2023 by Oregon Media

JANUARY + FEBRUARY 2024 EXPLORE THE TETON VALLEY ACCESSIBILITY ADVANCES AAA TRAVEL DEALS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

WINTER IN THE WEST

STAY AT SKI-IN RESORTS

COSTA RICA

DISCOVER COLORFUL LANDSCAPES & WILDLIFE

HISTORY ON THE ROAD FESTIVALS, FOOD AND FILMS 3

January + February 2022

Find your center

Wherever you look, you’ll find yourself in the center of it all. To learn more, go to visitcentraloregon.com.

Get inspired and Plan Your Trip at:

bellingham.org/ plan T H E S T AT E O F W A S H I N G T O N

SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME

NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.

Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland. Find your new favorite pour at

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG

Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide

{CONTENTS}

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP ISTOCKCOM/KIKKERDIRK | PAT ADDABBO/OREGON ADAPTIVE SPORTS | DOWNTOWN DRIGGS ASSOCIATION, TREY DANGER | COURTESY TIMBERLINE LODGE

JANUARY + FEBRUARY

2024 Volume 24, Issue 1

SMART TRAVEL

ON THE ROAD

ROAD TRIPS

COSTA RICA

Visit a colorful country with diverse landscapes—from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea—and find spectacular wildlife and volcanoes in between.

Start the new year with healthy habits, make a checklist for international travel, and prepare your home and car batteries for the winter chill. McCall’s Winter Carnival is three days of tradition. Curling tournaments, African cinema, plus festivals of seafood, wine and cheese. Stop at local museums for glimpses of history, culture and whimsy.

27 WEEKENDER

TETON VALLEY

Natural beauty abounds during winter in both Victor and Driggs, Idaho.

32 27

44 9

PRESIDENT’S NOTES

AAA DIRECTORY

PARTING SHOT

GETAWAY

SKI VACATIONS

Mountain resorts provide the ultimate winter experience of skiing outside your front door. 44 DISCOVER

ACCESSIBILITY The world of travel opens up to people with disabilities as accommodations are made for sports, recreation and lodging.

AAA | Via

COUNTRY VILLAGE STORE

THE AAA MAGAZINE

THE BEST OF SOUTHERN OREGON

Come in to find delicious gourmet food, sweets, and snacks, discover new and unique fine wines, and even create a custom gift basket. OPEN DAILY 1314 Center Drive, Medford, Oregon 97501 541-864-2278 • HarryandDavid.com

PUBLISHED BY OREGON MEDIA, LLC 974 NW Riverside Blvd. Bend, Oregon 97703 oregonmedia.com

PUBLISHERS Heather Huston Johnson Ross Johnson EDITORIAL Editor in Chief Cheryl Parton Associate Editor Heidi Hausler Staff Writer Chloe Green Copy Editor Stephanie Boyle Mays DESIGN Creative Director Kelly Alexander Senior Graphic Designer Cali Clement Graphic Designer Jeremiah Crisp Creative Consultant Tiffany Paulin Print Coordinator Clarke Fine

Contents copyrighted ©2024 by AAA Oregon/Idaho. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. 506,977 COPIES Via (ISSN 2473-5183) is published bimonthly by Oregon Media, LLC, 70 SW Century Dr. STE 100, Bend, OR 97702. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Bend, OR, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to VIA, Membership Records, 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201. Proudly printed in Oregon.

SALES & MARKETING Senior Account Executive Susan Crow Senior Account Executive Ronnie Harrelson Sales & Marketing Coordinator Allie Field Associate Publisher Katryna Vecella Director of Operations Heather Renee Wong Circulation Manager Amara Spittler

JANUARY + FEBRUARY 2024 EXPLORE THE TETON VALLEY DESTINATION COSTA RICA AAA TRAVEL DEALS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jeanette Boner, Annie Fast, Tor Hanson, Alex Pulaski, Dan Shryock

WINTER IN THE WEST

STAY AT SKI-IN RESORTS

Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues).

TRAVEL FOR ALL

ACCESSIBLE TRAILS, HOTELS & ADVENTURES

HISTORY ON THE ROAD FESTIVALS, FOOD AND FILMS

Change of address: Allow four weeks advance notice. Call (888) 422-2503 or email the Membership Department at membership@AAAoregon.com. Contact editorial: viaeditorial@oregonmedia.com Contact advertising: sales@oregonmedia.com

January + February 2024

January + February 2022

ON THE COVER View from Jimmie’s Run (J.R.) overlooking Schweitzer Village. Photo courtesy of Schweitzer

seaside is for Sea creatures and surprises

Of course you can feed the seals at the historic Seaside Aquarium. You can also spy rare sea stars, stand where members of the Lewis & Clark expedition made salt from seawater, spin around on a famous carousel and still have time to show off your skills at one of the only Fascination parlors left in the country!

seasideOR.com

@visitseasideOR

ADD YOUR TEEN TODAY (It’s on us!)

Make sure your kids are protected, even when you’re not around. Add your 16-18 year old to your AAA membership, and they’ll be covered for their first year at no charge. Add your teens to AAA today 800.564.6222 WWW.AAA.COM/FREETEEN Must be 16–18 years old when added as an associate member to the membership. Offer valid within the AAA Oregon/ Idaho coverage area, which includes Oregon and the southern 34 counties of Idaho only. Promo code: 2030

{PRESIDENT’S NOTES}

EXCURSIONS MADE EASY

Whether you’re dreaming of a future vacation or making the most of the here and now, AAA has you covered. Our world-class emergency road service and expert travel advice are the perfect companions for your next adventure. Cellular service continues to improve, but there are still some places along well-traveled roads where a lack of coverage can be a concern. We’re excited to announce that Apple has recently launched roadside assistance via satellite, with roadside services proudly provided by AAA. Apple’s Roadside Assistance via Satellite technology allows all iPhone 14 and iPhone 15 users (with iOS 16.1 or later) in the U.S. to request help when cellular coverage or Wi-Fi is unavailable. AAA members simply verify their membership, and the service will be provided. Due to the emergency nature of these calls, non-members may also receive assistance by paying commercial rates when service is rendered. AAA Oregon/Idaho received the first-ever request for roadside assistance via satellite shortly after the program launched. According to everyone involved, it was a smooth and worry-free experience! As always, we were pleased to lend a helping hand in a time of need. While AAA will always have your back during a roadside emergency, it pays to be proactive. To successfully navigate the chilly days ahead, please visit a AAA Approved Auto Repair facility for a quick vehicle inspection. AAA rigorously evaluated more than 7,000 locations to ensure that you’ll receive friendly advice, fair prices, and an excellent warranty on repairs from highly trained professionals. For more information and to locate a shop near you, please visit AAA.com/autorepair. Of course, winter driving presents some unique challenges. AAA.com/winterprep features detailed information on snow tires and other traction control devices, a list of emergency kit essentials, links to

local traffic and weather conditions, tips for driving on wet and icy terrain, and much more. You’ll also find important reminders to winterize your home and prevent damage. If you’re eagerly anticipating your next vacation, you’re not alone. My wife, Missi, and I are looking forward to the AAA President’s Cruise to Croatia and Greece this summer. No matter where you’d like to go, be sure to visit with a AAA travel agent who can help you plan the perfect getaway and share lots of ideas to make your trip even more memorable. Whether you’re traveling around the world or heading across town, we’re here to help. To speak with one of my AAA travel colleagues, please call (800) 529-3222 or visit AAA.com/travel. Where will adventure take you? Please email me at President@AAAOregonIdaho.com or write to me at 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201 or 7155 W. Denton St., Boise ID 83704. Your fellow AAA member,

Tim Morgan, President and CEO

DIRECTORS + OFFICERS chair Steven H. Corey pendleton

Bradley J. Hart lake oswego

Mary Pat Thompson boise

vice chair Elizabeth J. Cawood eugene

Karen Hinsdale portland

Kerry Tymchuk beaverton

president Tim Morgan portland

Randolph L. Miller portland

Gina Walker lake oswego

treasurer C.E. “Win” Francis bend

Patricia C. Smullin medford AAA | Via

AAA DIRECTORY

FOR GENERAL INFORMATION CALL (888) 422-2503 OR VISIT AAA.COM

CONNECT WITH US

INSURANCE SERVICES AAA.com/Insurance Policyholders (866) AAA-INSURE (866-222-4678)

AAA.com facebook.com/ AAAoregonidaho instagram.com/ AAAoregonidaho ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE (800) AAA-HELP (800-222-4357) MEMBERSHIP SERVICES (888) 422-2503

New sales (866) AAA-QUOTE (866-222-7868) TRAVEL SERVICES AAA.com/Travel (800) 529-3222 SERVICE CENTERS AAA.com/Locations OREGON Beaverton 8555 SW Apple Way Bend 20350 Empire Blvd. Clackamas 10365 SE Sunnyside Rd. Coos Bay 1705 Ocean Blvd. SE Corvallis 1836 NW Ninth St., Ste. 110

EXPLORE

Eugene 983 Willagillespie Rd. Grants Pass 1563 NE F St. Hillsboro 7300 NE Butler St. Lake Oswego 6 Centerpointe Dr. Medford 1777 E. Barnett Rd. Pendleton 248 SW Dorion Ave. Portland 600 SW Market St. Roseburg 3019 NW Stewart Pkwy. Salem 2909 Ryan Dr. SE Springfield/Gateway 939 Harlow Rd. Warrenton/North Coast 153 S. Hwy. 101 IDAHO Boise 7155 W. Denton St. Idaho Falls 3418 S. 25th East Meridian 2310 E. Overland Rd., Ste. 110 Nampa 16453 N. Marketplace Blvd. Pocatello 1000 Pocatello Creek Rd., Ste. E5 Twin Falls 1239 Pole Line Rd., Ste. 315

Come get Carried Away!

Paid for by PCLTax

Open Daily 10-4 Over 60 horse-drawn vehicles & thousands of historical artifacts. Fun for all ages! Raymond, WA @ Hwy 101 and SR-6 nwcarriagemuseum.org • 360-942-4150

ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY Alaska is wild, and full of adventure. See more by walking or driving aboard a state ferry to access dozens of scenic coastal communities along our 3,500 mile route.

FerryAlaska.com | 1-800-642-0066 #alaskamarinehighway 10

January + February 2024

{SMART TRAVEL}

M t n w e t t t b t a A p c t

PHOTO ADOBESTOCK.COM/DUSKO

START A HEALTHY NEW YEAR For many, the new year signals a fresh start and personal growth. To kick off a healthy 2024, join the programs of AAA’s exclusive partners, barre3 and Active & Fit Direct. Dive into effective workouts at barre3 for strength, cardio and mindfulness to enhance physical and mental well-being. For flexible fitness options, consider Active & Fit Direct, a program granting access to more than 12,200 fitness centers and studios without long-term commitments. Discover more at AAA.com/wellness.

AAA | Via

{SMART TRAVEL}

SAFET Y ON ICY ROADS

Visit AAA.com/winterprep to learn how you can be better prepared for winter driving conditions.

AutoSock® is a cutting-edge textile tire cover engineered to enhance traction in wintry and icy road conditions. Swift and straightforward mounting and dismounting process is easier compared to conventional traction devices. Learn more at AAA.com/winterprep. FRESH STARTS

FREE BATTERY TESTS

Winter chills affect your vehicle. Ensure it starts strong with AAA’s complimentary battery service. A team of experts test your battery, starter and alternator, and if needed, will deliver and install a new battery while removing the old one. Visit AAA.com/battery to schedule a test. AAA members receive savings of $22 on AAA Premium Batteries available at NAPA Auto Parts stores, or online at AAA.com/NAPA. 12

January + February 2024

ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE FOR IPHONES

Experiencing a breakdown can be immensely stressful, particularly in remote locations or areas with no cellular service. A new partnership between AAA and Apple means users of iPhone 15 and iPhone 14 have access to AAA’s Roadside Assistance via Apple’s groundbreaking satellite connectivity services. To request roadside assistance, iPhone users connect with AAA via satellite. After answering essential questions, motorists receive clear guidance on maintaining satellite connectivity to communicate with a AAA agent and receive status updates on their request. This advancement ensures safety for iPhone users in challenging situations where traditional availability may be unavailable. Learn more about this safety enhancement at AAA.com/satellite.

PHOTO TOP COURTESY AUTOSOCK®

AUTOSOCK® ALTERNATIVE TO TIRE CHAINS

{SMART TRAVEL}

FIND EV CHARGING ALONG THE DRIVE

PLAN AHEAD FOR INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL

Heading abroad this year? According to AAA data, Europe and Canada are the top global destinations. In Europe, London leads with an impressive 350% increase from last year, while Rome, Paris, Dublin and Barcelona are also popular. Vancouver, Toronto and Calgary are the most sought-after destinations in Canada. Here are three travel tips for your upcoming adventures.

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/WILLIAM87

1. PRIORITIZE YOUR PASSPORT:

3. FOLLOW THE LEADER:

A valid passport is essential. Apply promptly, keeping in mind the eightto 11-week processing time. Check a passport’s expiration date, as some countries require it to be valid for six months beyond your return from the United States. AAA members benefit from exclusive rates on expedited services through AAA’s Rush My Passport expedited travel service at at AAA.com/passport.

New or infrequent international travelers often find guided tours an excellent option. These tours offer expert-led exploration without the stress of daily itinerary planning. Your AAA Travel Agent is ready to assist in planning an international adventure. They are available for in-person, online, or phone consultations to brainstorm ideas and craft itineraries. Learn more at AAA.com/locations.

2. SELECT YOUR DESTINATION:

INSURE TRAVEL Get financial and logistical help when you experience unforseen circumstances away from home. Review policies and options to protect your trip by consulting AAA.com/travelinsurance.

Spark travel inspiration by exploring trending destinations and curated trips on Trip Canvas, AAA’s online travel tool. Visit AAA.com/tripcanvas to get started.

To prepare for your next road trip, the TripTik Travel Planner is invaluable for accessing public charging information and to help incorporate EV or gas stations along a route. Explore the full range of features and benefits of TripTik at AAA.com/triptik. MEMBERS ONLY

SAVE ON CAR RENTALS

When it comes to travel, AAA is your trusted partner to save money on rental car expenses. Use your AAA membership to rent a car through our partners, Hertz, Thrifty Car Rental and Dollar Car Rental for benefits of up to 20% off AAA.com/car.

G ET G I NTO THIENTO E XPLO ERIEEXPLO NRCIEESN RICE PRO E NSCG ERSAM PRO G R AM ETGIET NTO TH ETH E XPLO PRO G R AM Led by local Exploriences local guides, is aExploriences free, ongoing isprogram a free, ongoing that program that Ledguides, by Led localby guides, Exploriences is a free, ongoing program that encourages visitors and locals alike to explore andoutdoors experience the outdoors encourages visitors and locals alike to explore experience the encourages visitors and locals alike toand explore and experience the outdoors in andLincoln around LincolnLincoln City. City. in andCity. around in and around an exclusive glass coin, which a of number of club of club Members receive ancoin, exclusive glass coin,aunlocks which unlocks MembersMembers receive anreceive exclusive glass which unlocks number cluba number benefits including monthly drawings for cool prizes glass floats, benefits including monthly for coollike prizes like glassLincoln floats, Lincoln benefits including monthly drawings for cooldrawings prizes like glass floats, Lincoln certificates to localto businesses, and overnight stays. stays. Citygift swag, gift certificates local and overnight City swag,City giftswag, certificates to local businesses, and businesses, overnight stays. freeIt’s to free participate! Tomore find To out more visit participate! find outabout moreExploriences about Exploriences visit It’s free toIt’s participate! Totofind out about Exploriences visit

R E LI N CO C IT Y.CO M/E REISE N R C IEESN C E S E XPLOERXPLO E LIENXPLO CO LN RCE IT LILN Y.CO N CO LN M/E C IT XPLO Y.CORXPLO M/E I E N CXPLO

to damage. Weatherstrip doors and PREPARE YOUR HOME susceptible windows, inspect areas around fireplaces, dryer vents FOR WINTER and outdoor faucets for potential cracks, and check

Winter brings cold and damp conditions that increase the risk of water damage to your home. Take these proactive steps now:

PHOTO ADOBESTOCK.COM/NIKKIMEEL

1. PREVENT FROZEN PIPES Broken and frozen pipes rank as the third leading cause of home insurance claims in the United States. To mitigate this risk, insulate exposed pipes and maintain a minimum thermostat setting of 55 degrees when away from home. Ensure you can quickly shut off the main water line if necessary. 2. CLEAN GUTTERS Clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to water pooling where it shouldn’t, resulting in leaky roofs, foundation cracks and other costly damage. Regularly clean gutters and ensure your sump pump is in optimal working condition. 3. SEAL GAPS A well-insulated home is energy-efficient and less

caulking around doors, windows and cables. Examine walls for cracks and ceilings for discolored paint, which can indicate roof leaks. Address air leaks in crawl spaces, basements, attics and electrical sockets. 4. PREVENT ICE DAMS Ice dams, formed when snow melts and refreezes on the roof, can compromise the structure and pose hazards. Address this issue by ensuring your attic is adequately insulated and ventilated. Seek assistance from a licensed contractor if needed. 5. CONFIRM YOUR COVERAGE Understand the limits of your insurance policy and consider specialized coverage, particularly if you reside in a storm-prone region where rising floodwaters are a concern. Consult your homeowners or renters insurance agent to tailor your coverage to your specific needs. AAA can assist you with your home insurance requirements by visiting AAA.com/insurance. AAA | Via

{SMART TRAVEL}

AAA members enjoy discounts and travel planning support on domestic and international travel, from cruise vacations to European tours and family destination travel packages. See AAA.com/viatravel.

AAA

IMPACTFUL TRAVEL Flavors of Northern Italy and Icons of Ireland Two exclusive trips new for 2024 promise both traveler enjoyment and positive impact on the planet, its communities and wildlife. These eight-day journeys offer a taste of Italy and Ireland. They include experiences in Italy such as visiting organic farms and savoring Piedmont Truffles. In Ireland, learn about its landscapes, wildlife, and conservation efforts. Both Impactful Travel itineraries were designed for AAA and incorporate multiple “Make Travel Matter”® experiences aligned with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. The trips emphasize environmentally responsible aspects, including low carbon-emitting accommodations, eco-conscious transportation and extended city stays to reduce mileage. Availability is limited. From $2,695. TRAVEL DEALS

NOVA SCOTIA

PHOTO ADOBESTOCK.COM/COFFEECHOCOL ATES

Coastal Charm & Canadian Wonders Catch a glimpse of the iconic Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse in Halifax, explore the beaches of Prince Edward Island and witness the majestic beluga whales in Saguenay Fjord on an unforgettable 11-day cruise from Boston to Montréal. This cruise offers a tranquil glide through breathtaking landscapes, with stops in both historic and lesser-known ports and cities. This voyage through New England and Canada is always a treasure trove of lifelong memories. From $1,539.

ALASKA

CENTRAL AMERICA

BRITISH ISLES

Natural Wonders

Rapids & Rainforests

Tradition & Mythology

Visiting Alaska is a journey that explores the grandeur of untamed natural wonders on a magnificent scale. This seven-day cruise takes guests through the 30-mile Endicott Arm fjord, where the Dawes Glacier, a 600-foot-tall wall of ice, awaits. As expansive blue-white glaciers make their way to the sea, they harmonize with jagged, snow-capped mountain peaks that reach for the sky. Along the rocky beaches, bears roam freely, while salmon-rich rivers rush through pristine old-growth forests. The cruise combines a rich history, vibrant cities and delectable cuisine. From $1,259.

This exhilarating eight-day active adventure in the heart of Central America is a once-in-alifetime experience. Explore one of the world’s most eco-friendly nations, Costa Rica, on the thrilling rapids of the Pacuare River and trek through misty jungle trails in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. Along the Costa Rican coastline, cycle through the tranquil beach haven of Puerto Viejo and relish the freedom to craft your own adventures throughout. Costa Rica promises novel adventure to even the most seasoned expeditioner. From $1,748.

Spend 12 days experiencing a musical odyssey through the British Isles, where history, culture and legends converge. Journey to the majestic Edinburgh Castle, serenaded by melodies of bagpipes. Delve into the ancient world with a glimpse of The Book of Kells at Trinity College Library and walk the hallowed ground of Abbey Road. This diverse tapestry of experiences showcases traditions from Dublin to captivating lands of Scotland, including a watch for the elusive mythical inhabitant of Scotland’s Loch Ness. From $1,959. AAA | Via

SOUL, SOUL,

IInsnspipirred ed..

TRAVELAST0RIAWARRENT0N TRAVELAST0RIAWARRENT0N WWW.TRAVELAST0RIA.C0M WWW.TRAVELAST0RIA.C0M TRAVELAST0RIAWARRENT0N WWW.TRAVELAST0RIA.C0M

{ON THE ROAD} WINTER SPECTACULAR

PHOTO SAMANTHA SAIS

Inspired by the Payette Lake Winter Games held in 1924, the McCall Winter Carnival kicked off in 1964 to introduce its new Brundage Mountain ski area and jumpstart what was then a fledgling community. Fast forward 60 years, and the contemporary carnival today draws upwards of 60,000 visitors each year across a multi-weekend event. New for 2024, the McCall Winter Carnival condenses the winter spectacular into three days from February 23-25. Beloved events, such as the Children’s Torchlight Parade, Mardi Gras Parade, snow sculpture contest, live music on the main stage and an evening fireworks show all remain. The 2024 theme “Color Outside the Line” is a tribute to creativity to honor the area’s educators and their steadfast commitment to the communities of the West Central Mountain region. See visitmccall.org.

AAA | Via

{ON THE ROAD} EXPLORING ENDANGERED SPECIES

PHOTO TOP ANDY WARHOL, GREVY’S ZEBRA, 1983, FROM THE ENDANGERED SPECIES, PORTFOLIO, SCREENPRINT ON LENOX MUSEUM BOARD, 38 X 38 INCHES, COURTESY RONALD FELDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK©, 2023, THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS / ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIET Y (ARS), NEW YORK/RONALD FELDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK | MIDDLE RACHAELLE GRIMSRUD | BOTTOM DYL AN EVANSTON

The Endangered Species Act was passed in 1973 to protect plants and animals from extinction, and 50 years later the High Desert Museum in Bend hosts a year-long exploration on how it has impacted the Central Oregon region. See three exhibits, including Andy Warhol’s Endangered Species: from the Collection of Jordan D. Schnitzer and his Family Foundation, now through April 7. Special programming continues throughout 2024 and includes Endangered in the High Desert, through July 7, and Wolves: Photography by Ronan Donovan, closing February 11. Museum visitors can also see animals that have made a comeback from the endangered species list such as the bald eagle, bull trout, Foskett speckled dace and peregrine falcon. AAA Members save 10% on admission. See highdesertmuseum.org. FILM

SPORTS

VISUAL STORYTELLING FROM AFRICAN FILMMAKERS

CURLING TAKES THE ICE

The Cascade Festival of African Films, hosted by Portland Community College, showcases cinema through the lenses of African filmmakers who share stories from across the continent. For five weeks, from February 2-March 2, the free event both online and at locations in Portland offers receptions, film screenings, art exhibits, panel discussions, African food and a marketplace. See africanfilmfestival.org.

Those curious about the sliding, sweeping sport of curling can visit Stanley, Idaho from January 26-28 for the 11th annual Sawtooth Outdoor Bonspiel Tournament. In addition to learning the vocabulary of the sport (bonspiel means outdoor curling), the event offers spectacular views of the Sawtooth Mountains. The 16-team tournament includes a banquet, rink-side heated tent, and fire barrels to keep curlers and spectators warm. See sobidaho.com.

WINTER LIGHTS SPECTACULAR

Journey to the ocean’s depths, where bioluminescent creatures ignite the darkness at the Portland Winter Light Festival, themed “What Glows Under Pressure.” The immersive art experience from February 2-10 showcases creativity and technology at five central Portland locations including Pioneer Courthouse Square, the World Trade Center, and The Electric Blocks. The event includes radiant art installations, kinetic fire sculptures and live performances to illuminate the urban landscape to life with colors, shapes and sounds. See pdxwlf.com

AAA | Via

{ON THE ROAD} FOOD

MUSIC

BIG CHEESE

SOUNDS OF COLOR IN A WORLD PREMIERE

If mac & cheese tacos, gooey noodle-filled waffle cones and cheesy gelato sound appealing, visit downtown Coeur d’Alene’s Mac & Cheese Festival held January 13. Comfort food is in the spotlight as local chefs vie for the top prize of a Golden Noodle Award and attendees can enjoy a day of pairing the childhood classic with craft beer and wine. See cdadowntown.com.

Colors are translated to sound by internationally-renowned Eugenebased composer Pius Cheung with the world premiere of his Hibiki (Colors of Resonance) on February 22 at the Hult Center, Eugene. Marimba virtuoso Eriko Daimo will perform along with a full orchestra in a program that unveils not only Hibiki, but works from Debussy, Hildur Guðnadóttir and Witold Lutosławski. A pre-concert talk with conductor Francesco Lecce-Chong is free for all ticket holders one hour before the 7:30 p.m. performance time. See eugenesymphony.org.

FESTIVAL

Since 1977, Newport, Oregon has hosted thousands of visitors at a four-day event designed to pique taste buds and enthusiasm for the treasures of Oregon’s coastal seafood and premier wineries from across the state. From February 22-25, guests at the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival will enjoy wine tastings and education, chef demonstrations and live music. The event hosts the longestrunning wine competition in the Northwest along with an amateur wine competition, and this year, introduces a seafood chowder competition. Not only a longstanding tradition for foodies and wine aficionados, more than 20 coastal nonprofits work the festival as their primary fundraiser for the year. See newportchamber.org. 22

January + February 2024

PHOTO SAMANTHA SAIS

NEWPORT CELEBRATES FOOD AND WINE

Oregon’s South Coast Getaways Powered By Nature

r, New Yea NEW e! r u t n e v Ad

{ON THE ROAD} Deschutes Historical Museum

Paths of History MUSEUMS PROVIDE COLOR, CULTURE AND HISTORICAL CONTEXT WRITTEN BY TOR HANSON

Deschutes Historical Museum BEND, OREGON

The Deschutes Historical Museum in Bend, Oregon, highlights the interplay between the Indigenous tribes that lived in the area for millenia and the European settlers who were drawn to the area by the establishment of the Homestead Act of 1862. “We tell the story of the area’s mill history, the impact of the railroad and failures of the 24

January + February 2024

frontier. Homesteading was not always a rosy American Dream,” said Museum Director Kelly Cannon-Miller. The museum also houses the county’s first automobile, a 1907 Holsman Model 3. See deschuteshistory.org.

Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum HOOD RIVER, OREGON

Relive the era of unbridled optimism and technological progress at the Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum in Hood River, Oregon. Located at the Ken Jernstedt Airfield, the museum boasts more than 400 artifacts. “We focus on the Golden Years of transportation and aviation,” according to Museum Director Stephanie Hatch. One of the top attractions is an air-worthy Curtis JN “Jenny,” the airplane which ushered in the barnstorming years of the 1920s. See waaamuseum.org.

PHOTO COURTESY VISIT CENTRAL OREGON, STEVEN HEINRICHS

eep dives into history make visits to a new city more exciting and enjoyable. Local museums follow the booms and busts that shaped the American West and are important time capsules that highlight unique communities, people and the development of an area’s natural resources. Visit these museums in Oregon and Idaho to get unique perspectives on culture, exploration and technological advances.

{ON THE ROAD}

Independence Heritage Museum INDEPENDENCE, OREGON

Beer enthusiasts recognize this city as the historic Hop Capital of the World, stretching back to the 1890s. With a look back at inclusivity, “our focus goes beyond telling the Pioneer story,” said Independence Heritage Museum Director, Natascha Adams. “The annual harvest sculpted the way Independence treats its community, residents and visitors. During harvest time, the city grew hundred-fold with the arrival of more than 20,000 seasonal pickers spanning a broad cross-section of society—from Native Indians and Mexicans to Victorian women and people taking working vacations." See orheritage.org. Independence Heritage Museum

Idaho Potato Museum BLACKFOOT, IDAHO

PHOTO TOP COURTESY INDEPENDENCE HERITGE MUSEUM | MIDDLE COURTESY VISIT IDAHO BOTTOM COURTESY BASQUE MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTER

Blackfoot, Idaho adopted the moniker, the Potato Capital of the World for good reason. “Idaho is responsible for 30% of the nation’s output, and Bingham County—where Blackfoot is the county capital—grows more potatoes than any other county in the state,” said Idaho Potato Museum Director Tish Dahman. The museum features the prototype Spudnik potato loader as well as the world’s largest potato chip, measuring 25 by 14 inches. Naturally, the cafe serves up baked potatoes in the restored Oregon Short Line Railroad station building. See idahopotatomuseum.com.

Basque Museum & Cultural Center

Idaho Potato Museum

BOISE, IDAHO

This museum highlights the ancient culture of Basque sheepherders on the American High Desert, an area covering Oregon, Idaho, Nevada and northern California. “The Basque Block [district] serves up opportunities for visitors to immerse in Basque culture and taste authentic food at one of the local restaurants,” said Annie Gavica, executive director. Later this year, the museum will feature an exhibit about famed author Ernest Hemingway and his connection with the Basques. See basquemuseum.eus. PLAN A TRIP

Download the AAA Mobile app for maps, discounts, restaurants and lodging ideas. Vacations begin at AAA.com/mobile.

Basque Museum & Cultural Center

AAA | Via

{WEEKENDER}

Winter Trio

VIEWS AND VISTAS IN THE TETON VALLEY WRITTEN BY JEANNETTE BONER

PHOTO AL L AURA OBERMYER PHOTO AMY.COM/JOSHUA ROPER

ften referred to as “the quiet side of the Tetons,” the Teton Valley mountain-town community is a mecca for first time travelers and long time visitors. Simply put, there is something for everyone under the banner of Old Man Winter’s wonderland. Teton Valley is located along the eastern border of the Teton Range with the Big Hole Mountains to the west and, “Just over yonder, lies Jackson Hole,” as the saying goes. Carved by ancient glacial ice, the valley is home to generational pioneer farm and ranch families who mix and mingle among hardened, high-elevation adventurers. The valley straddles both Teton County, Wyoming, home to Grand Targhee Resort and Teton County, Idaho. In the valley, find groomed trails leading to unimaginable views and vistas. Yes, even in the winter. Averaging more than 160 inches of the world’s finest snow in the high country during the deep of winter, Teton Valley is home to three unique cities—Tetonia, Driggs and Victor, Idaho—and includes the small community of Alta, Wyoming.

AAA Magazine

{WEEKENDER}

The city of Driggs is at the heart of Teton Valley. Here you will find a thriving community, with Mugler Plaza at the center of its downtown. The plaza is named after Fred Mugler, who, along with his mountain supply store, perished in a 2004 fire that claimed much of Main Street. He—tongue-in-cheek—called Driggs “The Cultural Hub of the Universe.” In the center of town, find the Teton Geo Center, staffed with volunteers who help travelers navigate the area. The Teton Geo Center has a free museum that is a primer for first-time visitors and offers kid-friendly interactive displays. Every third week in January, the Driggs Downtown Association hosts the Driggs Snowscapes, a showcase of world-renowned artists who create fantastical snow sculptures throughout the week. Grab some of the finest roasted beans around at Rise Coffee Shop or Wydaho Roasters and bundle up to witness some truly amazing works of art in the center town. Driggs downtown shopping is a delightful mix of art galleries, outdoor adventure shops, gift boutiques and the must-see Corner Drug Store that has anchored Main Street for more than 100 years. Here you can find souvenirs, toys, books, sundries and an authentic old-fashioned soda fountain. Teton Valley has attracted some of the finest chefs and foodies in the world. Forage Bistro & Lounge has been named to the Best of Teton Valley Restaurants by the website “Best of Jackson Hole.” King Sushi, a crowd favorite in Jackson Hole, recently opened a new location in Driggs. Reservations are highly recommended for both. Perhaps Driggs’ best-kept local secret is the newlyestablished Figgie’s Deli just north of town. This is a sweet spot for grabbing a fresh sandwich on the run, or sitting in the bright shop looking out at the classic four-peak views of the Tetons. Family-friendly eateries include Provisions, a perfect stop for hotcakes or huevos rancheros in the morning, or O’Rourke’s Restaurant for hot pizza slices while watching the latest NFL games.

TOP: Downtown Driggs is central to its thriving community. MIDDLE LEFT: Forage Bistro & Lounge is a destination for foodies. MIDDLE RIGHT: Sandwiches are filled to new heights at Figgie’s Deli. BOTTOM: Wydaho Roasters showcases art and coffee.

January + February 2024

TOP AND MIDDLE LEFT PHOTOS COURTESY VISIT IDAHO

Driggs

{WEEKENDER}

Grand Teton Brewery

PHOTO LEFT COURTESY VISIT IDAHO | PHOTO RIGHT LINDA SWOPE

Victor and Tetonia

Kotler Ice Arena

The cities of Tetonia and Victor bookend the valley on the north and south, respectively. Victor is home to the Kotler Ice Arena, offering public ice skating hours (see tetonvalleyfoundation.org for its schedule). The arena sits in Sherman Park, a large public park that is groomed for Nordic skiing and fat biking in the winter. With 360-degree views of the Big Hole and Snake River Mountain ranges, there’s nothing like a sunset against the winter skies on the south end of the valley. Next to the arena, Grand Teton Brewing is an intimate spot to get a real taste of the barley and hops grown in the valley. The Lodge at Bronze Buffalo Ranch, just down the road from the arena, offers a stunning escape from the chill. A popular location for locals and travelers alike, the lodge offers luxury hotel accommodations. Or, come for the day and dine on locally sourced, seasonal cuisine at its Bronze Buffalo Grille and find rest and respite with a full service salon, sauna, hot tubs and massages. In the heart of Victor, the Knotty Pine Supper Club

sets the winter beat with endless live music acts throughout the season. Dine on house-smoked ribs and chicken or listen to sounds on its stage that has hosted the likes of James McMurty, Yonder Mountain String Band and Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real. The Dale Robson Memorial Snow Plane Rally is hosted in Tetonia on the third weekend of January at the Ruby Carlson Memorial Park. Under the old grain silos, the snow plane rally is the classic car show with a twist. Showcasing historical means of snow transportation, snow plane pilots come from near and far to offer neighbors and visitors alike an opportunity to ride away in history. With a picnic-like atmosphere, the city rolls out the works with hot potatoes for lunch around a warm bonfire. The newly revived Tetonia Club on Main Street keeps the city humming with live music, featuring some of the valley’s best local musicians. Hang your cowboy hat up at the Badger Creek Cafe just across the street. The cafe serves up hot breakfasts and lunches with homestyle cooking worth writing home about. AAA Magazine

{WEEKENDER}

Alta and Grand Targhee Resort

Alta, Wyoming, home to Grand Targhee Resort, is only accessible from Driggs. Heading east along Ski Hill Road, the Idaho/Wyoming state line is an invisible marker between the bustle of the city and access to thousands of square miles of U.S. forest land, ribboned with groomed trails lacing through snowcapped mountains. As soon as the snow falls like pixie dust, Teton Valley Trails and Pathways maintains Teton Canyon, keeping the valley sparkling and bright. Whether on cross country skis, skate skis, a fat bike or in a good pair of winter boots, Teton Canyon promises unmatched views of the Grand Teton and its nearby mountain cathedrals. 30

January + February 2024

While known for untracked powder and its promise of short lift lines, Grand Targhee Resort is more than just a ski hill. The base of the resort is warm and friendly, with crackling fires dotting the outdoor patios, a walk-up bar, a deli for hot cocoa and kidfriendly snacks. The Trap Bar & Grill provides live music, food and drinks to sip slopeside for visitors 21 and over. Shopping, massages and fine dining shape the mountain experience along with tour-guided snow-shoeing and miles of Nordic skiing. Go beyond the resort’s boundary and book a guided backcountry tour through the resort for more adventure in Old Man Winter’s wonderland. PLAN A TRIP

Download the AAA Mobile app for maps, discounts, restaurants and lodging at AAA.com/mobile.

PHOTO COURTESY VISIT IDAHO

Grand Targhee Resort

Get to your Let’s Go moments. AAA members: Make every journey special and enjoy everyday savings up to 20% off base rates with exclusive benefits. Plus, save $5 per day up to $25 off the base rate of daily, weekend and weekly rentals.* Include your AAA Discount Code (CDP# 177) and PC 211249 in your reservation. Click: AAA.com/hertz I Call: 1-800-654-3080 Visit: Your local AAA branch

Book Today

*Save $5 per day off the base rate on daily rentals, $15 off the base rate on weekend rentals and up to $25 off the base rate on weekly rentals. Applies to pay later base rate only. Taxes, fees and options excluded. Discount will vary depending on location, date, length of rental, car class and other factors. Promotion Code 211249 and AAA CDP# 177 must be provided at time of reservation for full offer discounts. This offer is available at participating Hertz locations in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. Age, driver, credit and qualifying rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Advance reservation required. Offer not valid and rate change or additional fees may apply in the event of reservation modification, early/late vehicle return or if not returning vehicle to renting location. Valid on all car classes except minivans, large SUVs and Dream cars. Offer has no cash value, and may not be used with other discounts, promotions or special rates. Offer valid for bookings and pickups through 12/31/2024. Subject to availability, blackout periods and additional restrictions. At the time of rental, present your AAA membership card for identification. © 2023 Hertz System, Inc. All rights reserved. CS 1023164

SKI VACATION EASE Ski-in, ski-out lodging at western resorts

Timberline Lodge

January + February 2024

PHOTO COURTESY TIMBERLINE LODGE

WRITTEN BY ANNIE FAST

t’s the quiet humming as the chairlift starts spinning, the soft crunching of snow underfoot, the first rays of sun sparkling across the freshly groomed runs and newly fallen snow. It’s the anticipation of those first turns down the mountain. Then, it’s the ease of walking right out of the hotel lobby to the slopes. Staying in slopeside accommodations on a ski trip is the ultimate vacation maker and the difference between a logistical morning of coordinating transportation and shuttling gear, versus a peaceful start to a day. It pays off at days’ end as well when the choices are simplified to hitting the hot tub or enjoying a lively après ski libation and bite to eat. Staying at ski-in, ski-out lodging allows a visitor to fully experience a vacation destination, whether it’s scoring the first chair at Big Sky on a powder day, ending the day on the Yodler sundeck at Mammoth Mountain, or experiencing the wonder of full-moon night skiing at Timberline Lodge. The following western ski resorts offer full immersion in the winter atmosphere while taking advantage of every moment during January and February’s shorter days. With slope-side accommodations and all the amenities, these snow sport destinations fit the bill and offer the bonus of being part of the Ikon Pass network. 33

descents of Lone Peak, and the endless trails of the southernmost Madison Base area. The Mountain Village is the main hub, with multiple lifts ascending from there. Three distinct hotels and the Vista Hall dining space overlook the sundeck and village center. This winter, the resort is celebrating its 50th anniversary season with a “Year of the Après,” featuring lively weekend dance parties. Both recently renovated, The Summit Hotel and neighboring Huntley Lodge offer slopeside lodging, dining and heated outdoor pools. Big Sky offers plenty of evening experiences, including lift-accessed evening dining at Everett’s 8800 and guided headlamp skiing, which is an adventurous new take on night skiing.

PHOTO TOM COHEN @TOMCOPHOTO FOR BIG SKY RESORT

BIG SKY RESORT, MONTANA It’s all big in Big Sky country—from the big mountains to the big skiing, to the big excitement over the resort’s brand new 75-person tram accessing the 11,166-foot summit of Lone Peak. Big Sky is arguably the most European-like ski destination in North America, with the enviable combination of incredible high-alpine descents with family-friendly terrain below. The resort boasts 300-plus trails spanning 38 lifts (many of them with heated seats and weatherproof bubbles), across 5,800 acres—in other words, it’s massive and has something for everyone. Big Sky is really three mountains in one, including the excellent intermediate terrain of Andesite Mountain, the steep big mountain

January + February 2024

PHOTO COURTESY SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN

Twilight skiing at Schweitzer Mountain.

SCHWEITZER, IDAHO The biggest ski area in Idaho is getting a lot of attention lately, and it’s deserved. Schweitzer, just outside of Sandpoint, Idaho, offers nearly 3,000 acres of scenic, skiable terrain and a network of recently upgraded highspeed lifts which access groomers, gladed tree runs and wide-open bowls. The resort is undergoing a resurgence, with modern lodging and amenities added to its Europeanstyle village, boosting the resort’s appeal beyond skiing and boardriding. New to the resort is the modern 31-room Humbird boutique hotel situated among the existing lodging and village shops, and the Cambium Spa, with treatments designed to help guests expedite ski-day recovery and get back on the mountain. The resort also added a new Creekside Express high-speed lift this season, improving access to the village from the base area below and offering guests an excellent first run of the day, right from their village accommodations. Midday dining at the Sky House summit lodge is a must for stunning views of Lake Pend Oreille and the surrounding mountains. Then, at day’s end, guests can head to the new Crow’s Bench for après ski cocktails or to Pucci’s Pub for a more casual “boots-on” atmosphere. Twilight skiing is also

offered for turns under the lights on weekends and select holidays throughout the winter.

TIMBERLINE LODGE & SKI AREA, OREGON Not many experiences can compete with a stay at the historic Timberline Lodge, tucked below the towering summit of Mount Hood. The lodge exterior is recognized as the set location for the chilling movie, The Shining, but its history goes back to 1937 when it was built as part of Roosevelt’s New Deal following the Great Depression. The three-level, 70-room lodge is positioned in the middle of the ski resort, with 1,685 acres of skiable terrain winding through the forested landscape below, and the Magic Mile chairlift accessing spectacular high-alpine runs above. Timberline is a nearly year-round ski resort, thanks to the 6,000-foot altitude and the glacial snow field above boasting some of the best terrain parks out west and notable for having 4,500 vertical feet of skiable runs. Guests will be able to relax in the brand-new outdoor pool and hot tub, debuting this winter, or head inside for après at the Ram’s Head Bar before indulging in locally sourced fine dining in the Cascade dining room. The resort also offers night skiing on select weekends. AAA | Via

MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN, CALIFORNIA Located in California’s Eastern Sierra range, Mammoth Mountain is paradoxically positioned to receive massive amounts of snow and plenty of sunshine. Last season was the snowiest winter on record with more than 700-inches falling at the Main Lodge and nearly 900 inches at the 11,053-foot summit. But it wasn’t all storm days—Mammoth is notable for having an average of 300 days of sunshine per year, which translates to an abundance of sunny powder days. The resort offers 3,500 skiable acres accessed by 25 lifts, with multiple base areas. Mammoth is also known for its terrain parks and halfpipes, which serve as the training grounds for freeski and snowboard Olympians, as well as family-friendly terrain (be on the lookout for the resort’s skiing mountain-mascot, Woolly the Mammoth). Experts can head to the summit for black diamond runs. Visitors looking for nightlife and plenty of dining options may choose to stay at the Village Lodge or the Westin, both located right in the heart of the bustling village, within walking distance of the gondola, which offers direct access to the slopes. Mammoth Mountain Inn, a stand-alone hotel in the uppermost resort lot, is set to undergo a $4-million renovation this spring. This classic slopeside lodge is open this winter and is the best option for those looking to score first tracks at the resort and last call at the iconic Bavarian Yodler restaurant and bar. Annie Fast has made a living as a writer in the snowboard and ski industries, both as an editor at Transworld Snowboarding Magazine and as a freelancer covering everything from the Winter Olympics to winter sports and ski lodges.

Winter RV Camping

MT. BACHELOR SKI AREA, OREGON What Mt. Bachelor lacks in on-snow lodging is made up for in 360-degrees of volcano skiing, an incredibly enthusiastic ski and snowboard community, and a lively winter RV overnight lot. This popular winter resort, just 20-minutes from the bustling breweries of Bend, reserves a section of prime pavedparking in the main lodge area for winter camping, including a dedicated row of powered RV spots. On any given night, find guests huddled around propane campfires, enjoying the starlit sky and eagerly anticipating making the first tracks at North America’s sixth largest ski area. Come morning, they’re usually the first in line at the Pine Marten lift for fresh turns right down the face.

PHOTO COURTESY OF 1849 MOUNTAIN RENTALS

The Village at Mammoth Mountain

January + February 2024

MEMBERS SAVE

on Travelpro luggage

Now through January 19 th 2024

Visit your local AAA Travel Store today! AAA.COM/LOCATIONS Of fer valid through 1/19/2024, or while supplies last at A A A Oregon/Idaho Travel Stores only. Selection may var y by store. No adjustments on prior purchases.

Monteverde Cloud Forest, Costa Rica.

January + February 2024

Pura Vida

Costa Rica, a colorful country from coast to coast WRITTEN BY ALEX PULASKI

The vibrant red-eyed tree frog is found in Costa Rica’s tropical climate.

PHOTO OPPOSITE PAGE ISTOCK.COM/MIROSL AV_1 THIS PAGE ISTOCK.COM/ABDESIGN

e awakened before dawn in the misty Costa Rican cloud forest, hoping for a glorious glimpse of a bird as colorful as its name: the resplendent quetzal. With its iridescent green plumage, red breast (in males) and flowing tail, the celebrated birds capture what draws so many visitors to Costa Rica. This tiny Central American country is renowned for its concerted efforts to prevent deforestation and constitutes one of the planet’s most biodiverse regions. The payoff for nature lovers exists in a range of spectacular viewing opportunities, from frail sloths to colorful scarlet macaws, and more. From ecoforest stays to guided excursions and self-guided visits to national parks, Costa Rica showcases wildlife—flyers and creepers and slitherers—in vivid colors and surprising ways.

MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK

Costa Rica has cemented its environmental credentials across the past five decades, preserving about onequarter of its land through refuges, reserves and parks. The smallest among them, Manuel Antonio National Park, is a canopied jewel of about 1,700 acres set along the Pacific Ocean’s white-sand beaches. The idyllic setting draws big crowds, so it’s better to arrive early to take in the white-faced capuchin monkeys holding court in the branches. A black spinytailed iguana or red-eyed tree frog is liable to peer from beneath a branch or scamper for cover. The roar of howler monkeys may fill the air. Be patient (and be sure to pack binoculars and a telephoto camera lens) and the rainforest’s residents AAA | Via

will reveal themselves. High up in a tree, a three-toed sloth hangs munching on vegetation. Next to a path, all but invisible with its brown and gray plumage, a bird—a common pauraque—rests up before early evening plans to dine on flying insects. A word of caution: Not all the forests’ residents are benign. The country is home to more than 20 species of venomous snakes, and though we encountered none of them during our week-long visit, it is advisable to stay alert and pay attention to guides.

The Saladero Ecolodge is set in the Piedras Blancas National Park on 360 acres of tropical rainforest. Accessible only by boat, the ecolodge is situated on the scenic Golfo Dulce beachfront and is filled with varied wildlife. We hiked the ecolodge’s trails and spotted birds galore—colorful parakeets, tiny flycatchers, golden-naped woodpeckers and the red and black Cherrie’s tanager. Guarding its nest in a tree, a variable seedeater silently watched us watching her.

OSA PENINSULA

The Curú National Wildlife Refuge, on the Nicoya Peninsula, has 17 hiking trails through nearly 3,700 acres of rainforest. While hiking, we spotted the turquoise and bright red of the aptly named elegant trogon, a vibrant pot-bellied bird. Trogons are known as “secondary nesters” because they lack the ability to create holes in trees for their nests, so they rely on woodpeckers to excavate nesting sites then move in after they are abandoned. The resplendent quetzal and trogon are related, and similarly lack the strong beaks and claws needed to make their own nesting sites. They also share brilliant coloring, but quetzals are a legendary sight–so much so that they likely inspired Mesoamerica’s serpent god Quetzalcóatl.

While hiking the Osa Peninsula on the southern Pacific coast, we heard the distant cries of toucans and macaws as we watched spider monkeys eating leaves and acrobatically swinging through the trees and occasionally tossing sticks at us for fun. The same afternoon, during a hike from lovely San Josecito beach, we spotted the brilliant red and blue flash of three pairs of scarlet macaws streaking across the sky. Following their path, we found them perched overhead. I’d cleverly left my biggest lens for this impromptu hike at the lodge, however, and the experience taught me to never be caught without the right lens in Costa Rica. 40

January + February 2024

NICOYA PENINSULA

During spring mating season, the male grows twin tail feathers as much as 3 feet long, creating an elegant, flowing turquoise train as it flutters from tree to tree. It is widely considered among the world’s most beautiful birds.

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

southern Costa Rica is accessible only by boat. THIS PAGE, LEFT TOP AND BOTTOM: Costa Rica is a bird-watchers paradise. Lucky observers may see a quetzal or elegant trogon. RIGHT Enjoy rustic comfort in cabins at Paraiso Quetzal Lodge.

At this site, Jorge told us quietly, the farmer believed that the young had hatched and that the nesting pair were active in bringing them insects. We waited, watching hummingbirds by the dozens busily going about their work. Then there it was: a flowing ribbon of green, red and black, followed shortly by the less colorful female.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ISTOCK.COM/CAROLE PALMER | COURTESY PARAISO QUETZAL LODGE | ISTOCK.COM/PHOTOTRIP

At more than 8,600 feet in altitude, Paraiso Quetzal Lodge is set within Costa Rica’s central highlands, about two hours from the bustling capital city of San Jose. After a short drive and a 300-yard walk, our guide, Jorge, led a small group of us to a grassy overlook. He explained how local farmers help spot the quetzals and the lodge works with them to allow viewers access and assure that the birds are protected.

OPPOSITE PAGE Saladero Ecolodge in Piedras Blancas National Park in

AAA | Via

We stayed mesmerized as the quetzals took turns entering and leaving the nest, hidden inside a snag high above the forest floor. On this, our last full day in Costa Rica, the vivid colors painted an indelible story of the power of renewal. Alex Pulaski is an Oregon-based travel writer with a background in print journalism and communications. His feature articles have appeared in The Washington Post, Boston Globe, Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune, Afar and more.

PLAN A TRIP

Dream trips, both domestic and abroad, start at AAA.com/tripcanvas. Contact your local AAA Travel Agent to assist in planning your trip at AAA.com/locations.

Protected Stays

EXPLORE ECOLODGES Costa Rica is a land of adventure, from volcano hikes and white-water river rafting to salt-water paddling or sailing on the Pacific Ocean or Caribbean Sea. But above all, the country is noted for its spectacular wildlife viewing in protected parks and refuges. The gateway city of San Jose is crowded, but to discover wildlife in peaceful surroundings, here are two good bets:

Saladero Ecolodge

January + February 2024

Saladero Ecolodge in Piedras Blancas National Park of southern Costa Rica is accessible only by boat, via transfers from local airports in Puerto Jimenez or Golfito. There is a vegetarian/vegan restaurant on site. Guided tour options include kayaking, fishing, snorkeling and rainforest hikes. Rooms start at $120 per night. Note: Minimum age for guests is 8 years old. See saladeroecolodge.com.

PHOTO MÄDY GEORGUSIS

Paraiso Quetzal Lodge has rustic wood cabins set in the central highlands, an on-site restaurant and guided or self-guided trail hikes. Best of all, it has nearby access to viewing resplendent quetzals and offers two-hour guided tours. Rooms start at $103 per night. See paraisoquetzal.com.

MOVING INTO THE NEW Y E A R Jumpstart 2024 with incredible savings and make the most of the new beginnings ahead.

STA RT F R E SH W I TH T H E SE AAA D ISCO UN TS

Enjoy access to over 12,200 gyms for only $28 a month. A A A . C O M /A C T I V E F I T

Make the switch to T-Mobile’s reliable network and get up to $100. A A A . C O M / T- M O B I L E

50% off lenses with frame purchase, 30% off eye exams and more. A A A.COM/LENSCR AFTERS

Get 2 months of at-home work outs free with barre3online. A A A.COM/BARRE3

Save 25% on state and federal tax prep and filings. A A A . C O M / TA X A C T

AAA Members save 12% off truck rentals and moving supplies. Plus, enjoy free unlimited mileage on one-way rentals.

A A A .CO M / P E N S K E

Save up to 20% off Spot Pet Insurance plans. A A A.COM/SPOTPETINSUR ANCE

Visit us online to find even more ways to save!

AAA.COM/NEWYEAR 888.422.2503

TRAVEL

for All

Accessibility creates paths for exploration WRITTEN BY DAN SHRYOCK

January + February 2024

Nonprofits such as Oregon Adaptive Sports provide access to activities from skiing (following page) to biking.

PHOTO PAT ADDABBO/OREGON ADAPTIVE SPORTS

undreds of skiers and snowboarders glide through powder on Oregon’s slopes each winter using adaptive equipment. Kayakers in Coeur d’Alene paddle the Spokane River each summer after smoothly transitioning from wheelchairs. On the Oregon Coast, 5-foot-wide plastic mats make it easy to roll wheelchairs across deep sand. Throughout Idaho and Oregon, there are more and more accessible campgrounds and trails, as part of an effort throughout the country to make travel and recreation accessible to more people. Accessible travel is a growing priority for officials in both states. Idaho has earmarked $140 million in state and federal dollars to upgrade its parks and recreation system, improving compliance with the federal Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) in the process. Oregon, meanwhile, is providing grants to local tourism organizations to enhance travel opportunities for people with disabilities. They do this with good reason. Travel accessibility is in high demand for consumers. A study conducted by the Open Doors Organization and The Harris Poll revealed that of the 4.5 billion people who traveled domestically in 2018-2019, 27 million of them experience a disability that would benefit from accessible facilities. More recently, an Oregon Visitor Profile survey conducted in 2022 by the Destination Analysts research firm, found one in six Oregon visitors (17%) said they had some type of accessibility need.

AAA | Via

What is Accessible Travel?

“We define accessible travel as ensuring that someone with a disability has as close as possible to the same experience as someone who is able bodied,” said Jake Steinman, founder and CEO of TravelAbility, a California-based resource group. “At the end of the day, all people with disabilities really want is what we all want—independence.” That independence starts with an expectation that accommodations, destinations and attractions make it possible for everyone to get around and enjoy an experience. Travelers with disabilities need to know where they can stay the night and what activities are available. Online resources help answer many of those questions in advance.

Wheel the World

Wheel the World is an example of one of those sources. The online booking site works in a similar format to booking sites such as Airbnb. All listed options on this website, however, have been vetted and include accessibility details such as step-free entrances, roll-in showers, door widths, bed heights and wheelchair turning space. “Accessible travel, to us, is making travel services that are inclusive for everyone,” said company founder and CEO Alvaro Silberstein, himself a quadriplegic. He explained how they ask themselves, “How can we make services available

for someone who has a disability and also wants to travel and go places and needs to find an accommodation?” The ability to go places is personal for Silberstein. “Travel has always been close to my heart. It was something I always loved to do before my accident,” he said. “For many years, I thought I would never be able to enjoy that again, but as I gained independence and confidence in myself, I discovered it was possible that I could travel and enjoy it as I did before.” Wheel the World helps arrange adventure destinations from an Alaskan cruise to a wheelchair-supported exploration at Peru’s Machu Picchu. There are domestic and international hotels and tours on the website, and more than 300 people are booking lodging and recreation through the site each month, according to Silberstein.

Accessible Oregon

Wheel the World is now working with Oregon Coast tourism organizations to verify opportunities and increase the number of state listings in the website’s database. The effort is supported by grants from Travel Oregon, the state tourism marketing group. “Twenty-six percent of the U.S. population—over 61 million adults—lives with a functional disability,” Todd Davidson, Travel Oregon’s CEO, said in a statement. “As part of our 10Year Strategic Vision, Travel Oregon will focus on supporting

PHOTO COURTESY WHEEL THE WORLD

Hotels are starting to recognize accessibility applies to more than just bathrooms and showers

January + February 2024

PHOTO PAT ADDABBO/OREGON ADAPTIVE SPORTS

Programs at Mt. Bachelor support athletes with disabilities.

and enabling accessibility and inclusivity in destinations across the state to ensure all visitors to Oregon feel welcome and a strong sense of belonging.” Efforts along the coast are considered by some to be a philosophical extension of the Oregon Beach Bill, the 1967 legislation that guaranteed public access to the state’s coastline. “We’ve come to recognize that not all residents and visitors can fully embrace this right [to use the beach] because of insufficient accessible infrastructure, insufficient trip planning information and inadequate on-site support,” said Arica Sears, deputy director of the Oregon Coast Visitors Association. “Our primary objective is to foster collaboration among communities, residents and businesses, with the aim of significantly enhancing the accessibility and ease of travel.” Coastal cities participating in accessibility efforts include the Astoria-Warrenton area, Lincoln City, Seaside, Coos Bay-North Bend-Charleston, Depoe Bay, Florence, Newport, Yachats and Waldport.

Adaptive Sports

Oregon Adaptive Sports, a nonprofit organization based in Bend, Oregon, provides snow skiing and snowboarding

programs at Mt. Bachelor, Mt. Ashland, and Hoodoo Ski Area each winter. “Our goal is to remove barriers to the outdoors and create access so individuals can participate with family and friends,” said executive director Pat Addabbo. “Our winter programs serve 400 people with unique disabilities.” Beginners unfamiliar with adaptive snow sports can sign up for the group’s First Turns program “so they can get all the support they need to get on the mountain,” Addabbo said. The first three alpine lessons are provided at no cost and include lift tickets, an instructor, support from program volunteers, and help with the equipment.

Long, Blue Mats

Blue runways stretch across soft, uneven sand in Lincoln City and Seaside, making it easy to roll a wheelchair or simply walk to the water. These Mobi-Mats, paths made from recycled plastic, provide a smooth, consistent surface that can be rolled up and removed during the off-season. Seaside placed its mat across the beach at 12th Avenue in 2023. The city also provides electric and push-style beach wheelchairs for free with a reservation, and the city’s paved, 1.5-mile promenade has made ocean views accessible since 1921. AAA | Via

Get in the Water

Back in Coeur d’Alene, Recreation Director Bill Greenwood recalls teaming with a local engineer to solve a problem. A local resident “was looking for a way to go swimming. We had to create a way to get a wheelchair into the water,” he said. The solution was a boat launch-like wheelchair ramp at Atlas Park. Users can roll their chairs down the ramp between handrails. Once buoyant in the river, they transfer to a floatation device. “No one had something like this, so we built it ourselves,” Greenwood added. “We’re a destination community, a resort town,”. “We need to make certain that everyone has accessibility.” Similarly, kayakers visiting William M. Tugman State Park near Florence, Oregon, can access Eel Lake much as paddlers do in Coeur d’Alene. A similar launch is available at the lake’s boat ramp. 48

January + February 2024

LEFT Mobi-Mats, made of recycled plastic, create a smooth pathway across the sand at Lincoln City. TOP RIGHT Estacada Lake at Milo McIver State Park, Oregon has access points to docks and trasition platforms to kayaks. BOTTOM RIGHT Find paths and viewpoints to enjoy the scenery of Mesa Falls, Idaho.

State Parks

Accessibility advancements are apparent across both state parks’ systems. Some cabins and yurts comply with ADA standards and make it easier to get into the forest. Idaho’s Parks and Recreation Improvements’ Initiative incorporates ADA guidelines into each project. An upcoming paving project at Bruneau Dunes State Park, for example, will convert a trail from gravel to pavement so wheelchair-bound visitors can access the observatory and see the stars at night. “We want to increase capacity for all users at every campground and every facility,” said Idaho Parks and Recreation spokesperson Chelsea Chambers, “so we will be focusing more and more on accessibility.” See wheeltheworld.com Dan Shryock is a Salem-based journalist writing for publications across the West His focus is cycle tourism and he author of an upcoming book on Oregon’s scenic bikeways.

PHOTO LEFT COURTESY LINCOLN CIT Y | TOP RIGHT ADVENTURES WITHOUT LIMITS | BOTTOM RIGHT COURTESY VISIT IDAHO

“The feedback from residents, visitors and our own eyes watching people enjoy the beach has just been overwhelming,” said Joshua Heineman, Seaside’s director of tourism marketing. Lincoln City, meanwhile, deployed its mats at the D-River Wayside and the SW 51st Street beach last summer and plans are being made to acquire more mats in 2024. Two beach wheelchairs also are available free of charge at the 51st Street beach with day-of-use reservations.

Choose Home Security, the AAA Way! Have peace of mind at home and on the go. AAA can now help keep you safe at home, just like we have on the road for 100+ years.

T H E R E ’S ON LY ON E YOU L E T ’S K E E P I T T HAT WAY

IDENTITY THEFT PROTECTION IS INCLUDED WITH AAA MEMBERSHIP. Enroll today at AAA.COM/IDTHEFT or call 877.440.6943 ProtectMyID® is provided by Experian®. *Enrollment is required. To be eligible to enroll, you must be 18 years of age or older and a current AAA member. A valid email address and access to the internet is required for ProtectMyID® Essential. Products subject to change or termination at any time without notice. Certain terms, conditions, and restrictions apply.

{PARTING SHOT}

PEACE

PHOTO RICHARD BACON

South Sister over Elk Lake, Oregon.

January + February 2024

Visit us online at AAA.com

We Got This. Is your insurance as dependable as our tow trucks? You already trust us for roadside assistance. We apply those same principles and practices in everything we do.

That’s why thousands of members trust AAA agents like Toni to handle their insurance needs the same way we handle roadside emergencies: quickly and carefully.

Get a no obligation quote. AAA.COM/INSURANCE 866.222.7868

— Toni Bradfield AAA Insurance Professional, vintage car enthusiast