AAA Via - November/December by Oregon Media

NOVEMBER + DECEMBER 2023 VISITING NATIVE LANDS MOUNTAIN-TOP DINING AAA TRAVEL DEALS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

DARK SKIES

BEST OF THE WEST

WINE COUNTRY

BEST PICKS FOR HOLIDAY MEALS & VINEYARDS

VISIT SOUTH AFRICA SAFARIS AND BEYOND HOLIDAY LIGHTS ON THE COLUMBIA 1

January + February 2022

IS ON MT. HOOD YOUR NEXT WINTER VACATION

VISIT MIDWEEK Once the snow arrives, Mt. Hood can be a popular destination. If you’d like fewer people around, visiting midweek (Mon–Thurs) is a great way to minimize the wait times at the chair lifts and the best spots to eat. Another perk of traveling midweek? Many lodging properties offer lower rates on those days. Perhaps you can even extend your stay with the savings! And just think of all the things you can do with an entire day added to your itinerary.

PLAN YOUR TRIP TODAY! omht.us/winter

As Oregon’s grandest peak, Mt. Hood is known the world over as a top winter destination, and for good reason. As home to the longest ski season in North America and the largest night skiing area in the country, it’s earned that reputation.

Conveniently located 90 minutes from Portland, on Mt. Hood you can take a guided tour, try the world’s first Cosmic Tubing, enjoy a beer at a craft brewery, spend the night in a mountain resort and experience what makes Oregon a truly special place.

snow sports for generations, swing into the Mt. Hood Cultural Center & Museum.

Time To Refuel

Don’t trek back down the mountain for a great après ski meal — there are plenty of places to eat here. Located along Hwy 26, Chicali Cantina offers a great selection of Mexican food and extensive kids’ and pups’ menus.

And there’s no reason to leave once you’ve finished playing in the snow. Everything you need for your trip is right here on the mountain.

And while sushi might not be thought of as a “mountain food,” Koya Kitchen has accepted that challenge. Offering made fresh sushi rolls, poke bowls and noodles, you can relax in a heated, outdoor A-frame hut while reminiscing about your adventures on the mountain that day.

Learn From Experts

Stay Close To The Slopes

The guides at Mt. Hood Outfitters can take you on Nordic skiing excursions, snowmobile trips and snowshoe tours. No gear? No worries! They provide everything you will need. If you want to learn more about how Mt. Hood’s ski culture has been instrumental in developing

Want a full-service resort? Try the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort in Welches. Love to stay right at the mountain? Collins Lake Resort is in the heart of Government Camp. Want a home away from home? Choose from dozens of vacation rentals from Mt. Hood or All Seasons Vacation Rentals.

DISCOVER

OREGON’S BEST (kept secret) Three National Park experiences, Oregon’s finest lakes, legendary trails, the most bald eagles in the lower 48, three hundred days of blue skies. And no crowds.

Have you discovered Klamath?

SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME

NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.

Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide

Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland. Find your new favorite pour at

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG

{CONTENTS}

NOVEMBER + DECEMBER

2023 Volume 23, Issue 6

SMART TRAVEL

Safeguard online shopping, find holiday gift deals and changes ahead for American travelers to Europe. 19

ON THE ROAD

See holiday lights sparkle atop Portland rivers. Ice skate in Idaho, discover African fashion and sculptures made of glass.

SOUTH AFRICA

A magical country offers more than safaris, with history, beaches and a spectacular wine country.

ROAD TRIP

Mountain-top dining offers peak experiences with snow-covered views. 27 WEEKENDER

THANKSGIVING

27 38

Three festive (and gratitude-filled) days in the Willamette Valley.

32 9

PRESIDENT’S NOTES

AAA DIRECTORY

PARTING SHOT

GETAWAY

DARK SKIES Gaze at celestial wonders in the darkest night skies of the West. 38

DISCOVER

NATIVE LANDS Learn about past and present with respectful visits to Indigenous sites of art and culture. AAA | Via

THE AAA MAGAZINE

PUBLISHED BY OREGON MEDIA, LLC 974 NW Riverside Blvd. Bend, Oregon 97703 oregonmedia.com PUBLISHERS Heather Huston Johnson Ross Johnson EDITORIAL Editor in Chief Cheryl Parton Associate Editor Heidi Hausler Staff Writer Chloe Green Copy Editor Stephanie Boyle Mays DESIGN Creative Director Kelly Alexander Senior Graphic Designer Cali Clement Graphic Designer Jeremiah Crisp Creative Consultant Tiffany Paulin Print Coordinator Clarke Fine

Contents copyrighted ©2023 by AAA Oregon/Idaho. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. 506,977 COPIES Via (ISSN 2473-5183) is published bimonthly by Oregon Media, LLC, 70 SW Century Dr. STE 100, Bend, OR 97702. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Bend, OR, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to VIA, Membership Records, 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201. Proudly printed in Oregon.

SALES & MARKETING Senior Account Executive Susan Crow Senior Account Executive Ronnie Harrelson Sales & Marketing Coordinator Allie Field Associate Publisher Katryna Vecella Director of Operations Heather Renee Wong Circulation Manager Amara Spittler

NOVEMBER + DECEMBER 2023 VISITING NATIVE LANDS MOUNTAIN-TOP DINING AAA TRAVEL DEALS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cathy Carroll, Casey Hatfield-Chiotti, Penny E. Nakamura, Daniel O’Neil, Matt Wastradowski Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues).

T H E S TAT E O F WA SH I N GT O N

bellingham.org/ plan

Change of address: Allow four weeks advance notice. Call (888) 422-2503 or email the Membership Department at membership@AAAoregon.com. Contact editorial: viaeditorial@oregonmedia.com Contact advertising: sales@oregonmedia.com

November + December 2023

DARK SKIES

BEST OF THE WEST

WINE COUNTRY

BEST PICKS FOR SEASONAL MEALS & VINEYARDS

SEE SOUTH AFRICA SAFARIS AND BEYOND HOLIDAY LIGHTS ON THE COLUMBIA 1

January + February 2022

ON THE COVER Photo by Grant Tandy. South Sister from Sparks Lake, Oregon.

seaside is for Rain means rainforest

We can’t make the rain go away. But we can invite you to come for a long weekend in Seaside where you can hike through ancient rainforest to some epic views of Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. Oh, and plan on some biking, kite flying, river kayaking, salt water taffy enjoying and arcade playing, too.

seasideOR.com

@visitseasideOR

{PRESIDENT’S NOTES}

IN THE KNOW With vehicle technology changing and the future of mobility evolving at lightning speed, AAA continues to serve as a trusted source of information. We’re here to help clear up the confusion. Advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS), such as automatic emergency braking, adaptive cruise control and lane position monitoring, have the potential to significantly improve safety for all road users. According to new research by the AAA Foundation for Traffic Safety, current levels of ADAS technology may prevent as many as 37 million crashes, 14 million injuries and 250,000 deaths nationwide over the next 30 years. While ADAS have the potential to increase safety and save lives, it’s important to remember that they are not a substitute for an attentive driver and good driving behaviors. Drivers have to understand how these systems work and what their limitations are. Our family has a Jeep and a Volvo EV, both equipped with ADAS. While these systems can assist with things such as steering and braking, they do not work 100% of the time, nor were they designed to do so. AAA urges vehicle manufacturers to continue developing the next generation of driver assistance systems and to give them names that accurately describe what they do. As we’ve stated previously, some names don’t accurately reflect current limitations. We also advocate for well-designed roads, thoughtful transportation planning, appropriate speed limits, engaged drivers, and other effective countermeasures as part of the Safe Systems approach. A balanced effort holds the key to a safer tomorrow. While “ADAS” may not be part of your regular vocabulary, another acronym–EV–is likely more familiar. As electric vehicles increase in popularity, AAA continues its mission of making your road trip a smooth and seamless experience. Our TripTik Travel Planner and AAA mobile app help you locate the EV charging stations along your journey.

We’re also expanding our EV emergency road service so we can charge a depleted battery on the roadside. If you’re heading out on a holiday vacation, please visit a AAA Approved Auto Repair facility to ensure your vehicle is ready for the road. As always, you can recharge yourself and your electric vehicle at several of our AAA Service Centers in Oregon and Idaho. For more information, please visit AAA.com. What vehicle is right for you, and how much will it really cost to own and operate? The AAA Car Guide rates dozens of late-model vehicles including EVs on energy efficiency and performance. To learn more, please visit AAA.com/carguide. If you’d like to experience driving an electric vehicle, consider renting one from Hertz and receive a AAA member discount. Visit AAA.com/Hertz. How do you feel about new vehicle technology and the future of mobility? Please email me at President@AAAOregonIdaho.com or write to me at 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201 or 7155 W. Denton St., Boise ID 83704. Your fellow AAA member,

Tim Morgan, President and CEO

DIRECTORS + OFFICERS CHAIR STEVEN H. COREY PENDLETON

BRADLEY J. HART LAKE OSWEGO

MARY PAT THOMPSON BOISE

VICE CHAIR ELIZABETH J. CAWOOD EUGENE

KAREN HINSDALE PORTLAND

KERRY TYMCHUK BEAVERTON

PRESIDENT TIM MORGAN PORTLAND

RANDOLPH L. MILLER PORTLAND

GINA WALKER LAKE OSWEGO

TREASURER C.E. “WIN” FRANCIS BEND

PATRICIA C. SMULLIN MEDFORD AAA | Via

AAA DIRECTORY

FOR GENERAL INFORMATION CALL (888) 422-2503 OR VISIT AAA.COM

CONNECT WITH US AAA.com facebook.com/ AAAoregonidaho instagram.com/ AAAoregonidaho ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE (800) AAA-HELP (800-222-4357) MEMBERSHIP SERVICES (888) 422-2503

INSURANCE SERVICES AAA.com/Insurance Policyholders (866) AAA-INSURE (866-222-4678) New sales (866) AAA-QUOTE (866-222-7868) TRAVEL SERVICES AAA.com/Travel (800) 529-3222 SERVICE CENTERS AAA.com/Locations OREGON Beaverton 8555 SW Apple Way Bend 20350 Empire Blvd. Clackamas 10365 SE Sunnyside Rd. Coos Bay 1705 Ocean Blvd. SE Corvallis 1836 NW Ninth St., Ste. 110

Where Celebration is Always in Season Unforgettable moments become cherished traditions at Sunriver Resort as our 3,300 acres transform into a winter wonderland of family fun and snowy adventures. Celebrate 25 years of the landmark season-long event with nightly festivities, horse-drawn sleigh rides, fireside hot cocoa, gingerbread house building and of course, merry feasts with all the fixings. Make holiday memories that last a lifetime at Sunriver Resort.

DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF SUNRIVER RESORT AT SUNRIVERRESORT.COM/TRADITIONS

November + December 2023

Eugene 983 Willagillespie Rd. Grants Pass 1563 NE F St. Hillsboro 7300 NE Butler St. Lake Oswego 6 Centerpointe Dr. Medford 1777 E. Barnett Rd. Pendleton 248 SW Dorion Ave. Portland 600 SW Market St. Roseburg 3019 NW Stewart Pkwy. Salem 2909 Ryan Dr. SE Springfield/Gateway 939 Harlow Rd. Warrenton/North Coast 153 S. Hwy. 101 IDAHO Boise 7155 W. Denton St. Idaho Falls 3418 S. 25th East Meridian 2310 E. Overland Rd., Ste. 110 Nampa 16453 N. Marketplace Blvd. Pocatello 1000 Pocatello Creek Rd., Ste. E5 Twin Falls 1239 Pole Line Rd., Ste. 315

{SMART TRAVEL}

M t n w e t t t b t a A p c t

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/FOKKEBOK

NEW DOCUMENTS NEEDED FOR EUROPEAN TRAVEL In the years ahead, Americans will need special travel authorization to enter the Schengen Zone, an area that includes a majority of the countries in Europe. The new rule, administered by the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS), will require travelers coming from once visa-exempt countries, such as the United States, to apply for travel authorization and pay an entrance fee when visiting any country in the Schengen Zone for less than 90 days. For stays longer than 90 days, the prior rules mandating a visa will remain the same. Watch for the new program launch sometime in 2024 or 2025 as it will affect future travel. See travel-europe.europa.eu/etias_en.

AAA | Via

{SMART TRAVEL}

HOLIDAY SAVINGS ON ELECTRONICS Unwrap the joy of savings this holiday season with incredible discounts on a stunning selection of Samsung electronics, perfect for gifting to your loved ones. Save up to 30% sitewide on cutting-edge gadgets and entertainment essentials. Plus, use your AAA member discount for additional savings on mobile products. Shop now at AAA.com/samsung.

TRIP CANVAS INSPIRES HOLIDAY GIFT THE JOY OF TRAVEL MEMBERSHIP

Whether searching for inspiration or learning more about a destination, travelers can use AAA’s Trip Canvas as a starting point. Use the program to create an unforgettable trip that meets travel goals and is tailored to any budget. Book reservations confidently, knowing that many of the accommodations, restaurants and activities have met AAA’s high standards. Experience the joy of travel with this easy-to-use tool. See AAA.com/tripcanvas. 12

November + December 2023

This holiday season, give the gift of AAA. You’ll enjoy peace of mind knowing your friends and family will have a year of trusted emergency road service, discounts, travel perks and more. Plus, sharing the sharing the security of a AAA membership is fast and easy by going to AAA.com/gift.

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/INSIDE CREATIVE HOUSE

INSPIRATION

{SMART TRAVEL}

COLD WEATHER BATTERY PRIMER

Before curling up by a warm fire with hot chocolate, make sure your car battery is ready for winter. Otherwise, risk Jack Frost nipping at your nose when stranded with a car that won’t start. Starting a vehicle in cold weather puts a lot of strain on a car battery. It may need up to twice the amount of current to start the engine when temperatures take a dive. AAA Automotive Research Center reports that at 32°F, a car’s battery loses about 35% of its strength. When temperatures plummet to 0°F, it loses about 60% of its power. SIGNS YOUR BATTERY MAY BE BAD: 1. A BATTERY IS MORE THAN THREE YEARS OLD.

The average lifespan of an automotive battery is three to five years. With the increase of electronics in vehicles, this number may skew closer to three years. 2. LIGHTS LOOK DIFFERENT.

If your headlights are dim and appear yellow, instead of white, your battery’s power may be declining. Watch for interior dome lights that dim, or flicker. Pay attention to dashboard warning lights. 3. CAR HORN SOUNDS STRANGE.

When your car horn sounds less emphatic than usual, your car battery could be on the fritz. 4. ELECTRONIC ACCESSORIES FAIL.

If your radio, heated seats, or cell phone charger are not working as usual, your car battery is likely failing.

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/PROSTOCK-STUDIO | BOTTOM STOCK.COM/TATNIZ

5. IT DOESN’T LOOK OR SMELL RIGHT.

Sometimes, a simple visual inspection or smell test is all it takes to know your battery is in trouble. If you notice a sulfur or rotten egg smell, or your battery is swollen, cracked, or corroded, it may be time for a replacement.

SMART HOMES

SAFE GIVING It’s the season for charitable giving, but unfortunately, it is also a time for an uptick in scams taking advantage of holiday generosity. Be on the lookout for emails or phone calls from decoys posing as representatives of charitable causes or using “spoofing technology” that mimic charities. To safeguard generosity, look at an organization’s website to find a legitimate phone number or online gifting option to make a donation. If you’re unsure about a charitable organization, research nonprofits at Charity Navigator and CharityWatch. See charitynavigator.org, charitywatch.org. TRAVEL TIP

GET ORGANIZED WITH BAGGALLINI CLEAR TRIO POUCHES

Change the way you stay organized with these clear travel pouches. Their water-resistant designs make them ideal travel bags for storing toiletries and more. The smaller size is TSA-friendly and perfect for your carry-on must-haves. Clear pouches are available to purchase from AAA Service Centers. Find a location near you at AAA.com/locations.

AAA’S MOBILE BATTERY SERVICE PROGRAM

Avoid a crowded auto repair shop! Schedule a convenient car battery test with your AAA Membership. A Battery Service Technician comes to you—at work, at home, almost anywhere—to test your battery. If it needs to be replaced, the Technician can install it onsite. Find out more at AAA.com/battery. 13

Come get Carried Away! COUNTRY VILLAGE STORE

Paid for by PCLTax

Open Daily 10-4 Over 60 horse-drawn vehicles & thousands of historical artifacts. Fun for all ages! Raymond, WA @ Hwy 101 and SR-6 nwcarriagemuseum.org • 360-942-4150

SOUTHERN OREGON’S PREMIUM FOOD & WINE DESTINATION Come in to find delicious gourmet food, sweets, and snacks, discover new and unique fine wines, and even create a custom gift basket. OPEN DAILY 9AM–6PM 1314 Center Drive, Medford, Oregon 97501 541-864-2278 • HarryandDavid.com ©Harry and David, LLC, Medford, OR, DBA Harry & David

. Join us Dec. 3, 4-6pm for our Holiday Party!

PRINTS 4/4

C M EVENT Y K ---

DELIVERY

DESCRIPTION

SIGN CODE

DETAIL

ROUND

ROUND DATE

AAA AD

3.375 x 4.625

CRF

9/19/23

{SMART TRAVEL}

SAFEGUARD THE HOLIDAYS

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/MARCHMEENA29

The holidays bring joy, time away from work and days spent with loved ones, but they can also bring added stress. The season is especially ripe for identity thieves and fraudsters, who take advantage of the sense of urgency and scarcity that surrounds shopping at this time of year. To avoid falling victim to identity theft, there are things you can do to protect personal information from being compromised.

using cryptocurrency or a wire transfer, that’s a red flag that the transaction could be a scam. Instead, consider paying with a peer-to-peer payment app, such as PayPal, Venmo or Zelle, which include purchase protections.

1. PRACTICE CAUTION SHOPPING ONLINE Use extra caution using online marketplaces. When buying directly from a person and paying in cash, you won’t have the same purchase protections you’d get when buying from a reputable retailer or when using a credit card. If you’re asked to pay

2. SAFEGUARD YOUR PASSWORDS Use a unique password for each of your accounts and give special attention to financial accounts by creating hard-to-guess combinations. A password manager—even a free one—makes this easy to set up. Wherever possible, especially for financial accounts, turn on multifactor authentication. The extra step to verify your identity is a layer of security to keep your information safe. Did you know that identity theft protection is included with your AAA membership? Learn more and enroll at AAA.com/idtheft.

GOURMET GIFTS

RENTAL CAR DEALS

BIG SAVINGS FROM HARRY & DAVID

Make every celebration this holiday season extra special with gourmet gifts and goodies from Harry & David. Explore a wide selection of gift baskets, tasty treats, floral arrangements and extraordinary surprises full of delight. AAA members save up to 25% on online purchases at AAA.com/harrydavid.

SKIP LINES AND SAVE WITH HERTZ

Hertz offers everyday discounts and benefits for AAA Members on car rentals throughout the country. Join the Hertz Gold Plus Rewards® program and skip lines, get on the road faster and earn free rental days and upgrades. Plus, AAA Premier members get Hertz Five Star loyalty status for additional benefits. Enroll at AAA.com/hertz. AAA | Via

So much to Explore

LEARN MORE AT TASTENEWBERG.COM

Where to Stay

{SMART TRAVEL}

AAA members enjoy discounts and travel planning support on domestic and international travel, from cruise vacations to European tours and family destination travel packages. See AAA.com/viatravel.

AAA

DENMARK Nordic City Tour Visit three of Denmark’s most remarkable cities—Copenhagen, Aarhus and Odense—during an unforgettable 8-day vacation experience offered with partner, Avanti Tours. Highlights include a full-day touring Copenhagen’s top offerings, such as a three-course cooking class showcasing the brilliance of New Nordic cuisine, a visit to the childhood home of Hans Christian Andersen and a saunter through the famous landmarks of Aarhus. See AAA Travel for rates. TRAVEL DEALS

PANAMA CANAL CRUISE

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO

Fort Lauderdale to Los Angeles

Take a 15-night Princess Cruise from the East Coast to the West Coast of the United States, with an unforgettable voyage through the Panama Canal. Experience Spanish and Dutch cities dating back centuries, and see diverse tropical rainforests, white-sand beaches, dramatic volcanoes, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Experience the best of Central America in Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico, Nicaragua and Panama both from the deck and on ship-to-shore outings guided by travel experts. From $1,399 per person.

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

ALASKA

Culture and National Treasures

Picturesque Cities and Glaciers

Learn about Maori culture, the dramatic Milford Sound and the splendor of Abel Tasman National Park in New Zealand. Explore the unparalleled Outback of Australia and admire the striking essence of Uluru (Ayers Rock) as you dine under the stars on this 22-day adventure. Tour the Sydney Opera House and get a glimpse of action behind the scenes, then discover the legendary Great Barrier Reef—by snorkeling, hiking, relaxing and learning. From $11,299 per person.

Experience Alaska while enjoying a luxurious small-ship experience with Oceania Cruises. For seven days, travelers are immersed in the best dramatic experiences of the state—from calving glaciers and breathtaking fjords to fascinating wildlife. Explore stately Juneau, art-filled Ketchikan and picturesque Sitka, concluding with a stop in charming Victoria, British Columbia. From $2,229 per person.

AFRICAN GETAWAY

Wildlife and Victoria Falls

Explore the wildlife wonders of South Africa’s Greater Kruger National Park, considered one of the world’s premier safari regions, on a 13-day bucket-list adventure. Begin with a stay in Johannesburg before flying to Kasane, Botswana for a four-night wildlife adventure at Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls. The journey culminates with a five-star luxury safari lodge featuring twice-daily game drives led by highly qualified guides. From $23,895 per person. AAA | Via

China Before Communism

“An extraordinary experience... Exquisitely beautiful!” —Cate Blanchett, Academy Award-winning actress

When was the last time something was so beautiful, it changed your life?

MAR 14–17

the breathtakingly beautiful Shen Yun

performance is at once exciting, moving, and inspiring— like nothing you’ve ever seen. The secret? Shen Yun’s works are steeped in a classical aesthetic and timeless virtues. Its art transcends the trends and tastes of our day. Shen Yun is your ticket to the world of classical Chinese culture that you don’t know. Discover a new realm of divinely inspired beauty and artistic mastery.

Portland • Keller Auditorium

Tickets: 888.974.3698

ShenYun.com/Portland

Get best seats and waive fees, use code: SY24AAA (by Dec 31)

Boise • MAR 2–3

Morrison Center Idaho Falls • MAR 6 Civic Center

{ON THE ROAD}

PHOTO SAN SENG SAECHAO

PARADE OF BOATS

Sparkling on the water, the Christmas Ship Parade kicks off the holiday season at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers in Portland. For two weeks, boat owners show off their holiday light displays to spectators lining the rivers’ banks. The first parade in 1954 featured one sailboat from the Portland Yacht Club, decorated with bows of greenery and ribbon. Today, up to 60 boats from Portland, Vancouver, McMinnville, Salem and Hood River participate in the free, non-ticketed event. This year’s Christmas Ship Parade is December 1-17, starting at 7 p.m. For viewing, select a night from either the Columbia or Willamette fleets on one of 13 routes. Enjoy the luminescence from one of the many outdoor viewpoints (weather permitting) or reserve a seat at a restaurant along the route for dinner with a view. See christmasships.org.

AAA | Via

NOV. 17 - DEC. 31

AT THE OREGON GARDEN RESORT

YOU’RE NOT LIKE ANYONE ELSE. NEITHER ARE WE.

1+ MILLION LIGHTS • BIERGARTEN • SANTA GERMAN CHRISTMAS MARKET SNOWLESS TUBING • FOOD & DRINK

For more info on hotel stays & tickets, visit silvertonchristmasmarket.com

find your couve visitvancouverwa.com

Happy Holidays!

{ON THE ROAD}

WILD MUSHROOM EXPLORATION

Find mycological fun at the Brookings Wild Rivers Mushroom Festival, November 4-5. Discover the secrets of mushrooms with workshops and lectures on identification, harvesting, cooking and preservation by local and national experts. Take to the woods on guided identification hikes and learn from the festival’s display of more than 200 wild mushroom varieties. Browse a vibrant marketplace with vendors serving artisan goods, along with delectable food and brew options. See wildriversmushroomfestival.com.

COMEDY

SCULPTURE

REAP THE BOUNTY OF LAUGHTER

GLASS ART INSPIRED BY NATURE

Since its founding in 2018 as a fleeting Thanksgiving treat, the Ha Ha Harvest Comedy Festival has grown into a premier comedy festival for Oregon. From November 24-26, ten stages throughout downtown Portland will showcase 60-plus comic luminaries such as Adam CaytonHolland, Lizzy Cooperman, Ron Lynch, Mav Viola, Janae Burris, and more. New this year is a film and a screenplay competition for even more layers of laughter. See hahaharvest.com.

Opening November, 30 and running through February 28, the Winter Brilliance exhibit at Chihuly Garden and Glass comprises 700 glass artworks, including chandeliers, towers, reeds and cluster sculptures inspired by icicles. Originally created in 2015 for Barney’s flagship store in Manhattan, New York, the museum’s installation brings together lights, music and glass art with video images projected onto Dale Chihuly’s glass sculptures, bringing them to life with the colors of fire and ice. See chihulygardenandglass.com/holidays.

RINKS: IDAHO ON ICE COEUR D’ALENE Frontier Ice Arena During its “12 Skates of Christmas,” make a holiday craft, skate and sip a sweet cup of hot chocolate.

MCCALL Manchester Ice & Event Centre Learn to skate and on select weekends, try ice bumper cars. It’s just what it sounds like: a slippery form of entertainment.

KETCHUM Christina Potters Ice Rink This natural, un-refrigerated ice rink offers two acres of skating heaven. (Opening times vary depending on weather.)

VICTOR Kotler Ice Arena From November to March, the arena offers skating with views of the Teton Valley. Go for family skates, play hockey or take lessons.

IDAHO FALLS Joe Marmo/ Wayne Lehto Ice Arena Skate indoors or rent skates at the arena, and glide outdoors at nearby Tautphaus Park, as winter weather permits. AAA | Via

{ON THE ROAD} FASHION

AFRICAN DESIGNERS AND CULTURAL HISTORY

Fashion as art by Kenyan designer IAMISIGO.

Africa Fashion, a major exhibition from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, celebrates the richness and diversity of African creativity, cultures, and histories, using fashion as a catalyst. Showing at the Portland Art Museum November 18 through February 18, 2024, the exhibit spans design from the mid-twentieth century to the contemporary era with an extensive display of garments, textiles, adornments, personal testimonials, photographs, film, and fashion-show footage. Designs from influential contemporary African artists, including Imane Ayissi, IAMISIGO, Moshions, Thebe Magugu, and Maison ArtC will be on display for the first time. See portlandartmuseum.org. NEW YEAR’S EVE

SILVERTON MARKET, LIGHTS AND GARDEN Kick off the holidays at the annual light display of the Silverton Holiday Market, held November 16-December 31 at the Oregon Garden Resort. Immersive paths of more than one million lights lead to an artisan market inspired by European traditions. The event is designed for all ages and interests, whether it’s enjoying music and libations in its biergarten, riding down the snowless tubing hill or visiting Santa. See silvertonchristmasmarket.com. 22

November + December 2023

11TH ANNUAL IDAHO POTATO DROP A Swavorski crystal ball at Times Square can’t compare to a new year kicked off at the Idaho Potato Drop in Boise. This one-of-a-kind event on December 31 is free and supports local arts, businesses and charities with live music and a suspenseful Idaho Potato Rise leading up to the midnight drop. The glowing potato will fall as fireworks ignite to start the first day of 2024. See idahopotatodrop.com.

TOP PHOTO COURTESY IAMISIGO. PHOTO BY MAGANGA MWAGOGO

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{ON THE ROAD} Schweitzer Mountain Resort

Elevated Experience

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT FOR HIGH-MOUNTAIN DINING othing heightens a dining experience more than thousands of feet of elevation, bounty from the valley below and the lofty notions of creative chefs. Rise above the rest at these high-mountain restaurants where the views are a feast for the eyes and the food is a feast for the palate.

The Nest Bar & Restaurant SANDPOINT, IDAHO

Skiers and non-skiers are welcome to ride the Great Escape Quad chair lift to the 6,400-foot summit at Schweitzer Mountain Resort to The Nest Bar & Restaurant. Take in 360-degree views of Canada, Washington, Idaho, Montana and Lake Pend Oreille while warming by the fireplace. Small plates offer a range 24

November + December 2023

of flavors such as haute pigs in a blanket, which combine the umami of house-cured pork belly with scallion and sweet apple, pickled onion and maple barbeque sauce, all swaddled in a crepe. Sweet piquillo peppers stuffed with creamy herb cheese are punctuated with breadcrumbs and a tart-sweet balsamic reduction. Crispy potato croquettes filled with Swiss raclette-style melted cheese are perfect with a cornichon remoulade. See schweitzer.com.

The Roundhouse

SUN VALLEY, IDAHO

Glide in a gondola to 7,700 feet on Bald Mountain to The Roundhouse. Serving guests since 1939, the restaurant blends Northwest fare with Old World European flavors. Dip crusty chunks of bread into a

PHOTO COURTESY SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN

WRITTEN BY CATHY CARROLL

{ON THE ROAD} melted melange of cheese fondue and gaze out over the snow-covered mountains. Savor well balanced dishes such as the Idaho lamb burger with goat cheese, pickled mustard seed, lingonberry jam, arugula and garlic aioli on brioche. Take a culinary side trip to Asia with entrees such as miso-glazed king salmon with Thai basil, jicama and cucumber papaya salad. See sunvalley.com.

The Crooked Tree Tavern & Grill

The Crooked Tree Tavern & Grill MT. HOOD, OREGON

PHOTOS TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY CROOKED TREE TAVERN & GRILL | COURTESY TIMBERLINE LODGE | COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORT

On the northern slopes of Mt. Hood, surrounded by snowladen ponderosas, the culinary team at Crooked Tree Tavern & Grill expertly connects guests to the renowned local terroir. Organic ingredients from within a 30-mile circle of your table truly shine in the restored, rustic lodge of Cooper Spur Mountain Resort, established in 1885. Small plates showcase artisan meats and cheeses. Think lusciously marbled prosciutto complemented by sweet fig, peppery arugula, rich Cascadia Creamery Cloud Cap Cheese and tangy balsamic atop house-made flatbread. Citrusy sauces slip over seafood such as seared, wild salmon, and grilled specialties of local, hand-cut steaks appear daily. Burgers drip with juice and melted cheddar on buns straight from the oven. See cooperspur.com.

Timberline Lodge

Cascade Dining Room Ram’s Head Bar and Restaurant TIMBERLINE LODGE, OREGON

At Timberline Lodge, 6,000 feet up Mt. Hood, Cascade Dining Room looks south, framing the graceful lines of volcanically formed Mt. Jefferson. Culinary creativity here taps into local bounty for dishes such as duck breast with farro, fava beans and Hood River apple. Massive ribeyes come with oleaginous lardons, rich demi-glace and marrow butter. Ram’s Head Bar and Restaurant, on the lodge’s circular balcony, surrounds a massive stone chimney. Savor satisfying soups, sandwiches, salads and views of Mt. Hood, Oregon’s tallest peak at 11,245 feet. See timberlinelodge.com.

PLAN A TRIP

The Roundhouse

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{WEEKENDER}

A Moveable Feast

DISCOVER THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY WITH A THANKSGIVING WINE-TASTING WEEKEND

PHOTO COURTESY OF WILL AMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS

WRITTEN BY CASEY HATFIELD-CHIOTTI

regon’s Willamette Valley, where moss-covered trees and manicured vineyards cover gently rolling hillsides, is beautiful to experience in all four seasons. Located an hour’s drive southwest of Portland, the picturesque region is also known for producing award-winning pinot noir and really comes alive in late fall, particularly over the long Thanksgiving weekend. Hundreds of Oregon wineries open their doors for the holiday weekend and feature special experiences that celebrate the end of harvest; visitors flock from all over the country to taste and feast their way through the Valley. For those inclined to stay out of the kitchen and try something different, plan a trip that includes a mouthwatering Thanksgiving dinner, luxury inn stays, indulgent spa treatments, visits to new tasting rooms and, of course, perfectly paired food and wine.

Willamette Valley Vineyards

AAA Magazine

NIGHT ONE: The Main Event With 85 well-appointed rooms, The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg is a pampering base for the first night in the valley. The hotel’s JORY restaurant showcases seasonal ingredients in dishes such as winter squash soup with a dollop of maple crème fraiche and a sprinkling of spiced hazelnut dukkah paired with a complex and mineral Hope Well Chenin Blanc. For the main course, organic turkey breast is served with herbs de Provence brioche stuffing, whipped Yukon potatoes and caramelized brussels sprouts. The warm wood dining room feels festive, featuring an open kitchen and valley views that may still showcase fall’s deep burgundy and bright gold hues. While reservations are required, diners don’t have to be inn guests to partake.

DAY TWO:

Start the day on the right foot by driving 25 minutes to Chehalem Ridge Nature Park. Oregon Metro’s newest park has 10 miles of trails open to hikers, cyclists and equestrians with beautiful views of the Tualatin River Valley. Those who prefer something quick and close by walk the Harvey Creek Trail in Dundee, a steep 1.6-mile loop that zigzags its way through wineries and leads to Dundee Pioneer Cemetery at the top. Continue detoxifying with a spa treatment at The Allison Inn & Spa. The 15,000-square-foot health and wellness sanctuary offers “pinot-therapy” treatments such as the Divine Wine Facial, where masks and other products have been made with wine and grape seed extracts from the resort’s vineyard. The Dundee hill’s red clay soils produce some of the best pinots in the valley. When travelers are ready to wine and dine again, Archery Summit’s new tasting room, with a panoramic view of forests and mountain peaks, opens to the public the Friday after Thanksgiving. Visitors can make a reservation for a new tasting experience, including a seated tasting of single vineyard wines such as juicy cardamom-laced Archer’s Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir or go on a behind-theTOP: The Allison Inn & Spa MIDDLE: Dining in a cave at Archery Summit. LEFT: Picnic platter at Durant Vineyards.

November + December 2023

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TOP: ALLISON INN & SPA | MIDDLE: ARCHERY SUMMIT | BOTTOM DURANT VINEYEARDS

Reset and Taste Pinot

{WEEKENDER}

PHOTO COURTESY OF ABBEY ROAD FARM

Abbey Road Farm

scenes tour of the barrel caves. Family-owned Durant Vineyards serves their estate-wines by reservation. Accompanying charcuterie platters feature local cheeses and Durant Olive Mill Extra Virgin Olive Oil drizzled on a baguette. (Return on Saturday or Sunday for the Olio Nuovo Festival with olive mill tours, wines for sale by the bottle and glass, and a holiday marketplace.) At De Ponte Cellars, French winemaker Isabelle Dutartre—one of the most well-respected in the Valley—will offer tastings of Burgundian style pinots and other varietals over Thanksgiving weekend by appointment and walk-in. Tastings will end with a bonus wine such as an older library wine or current reserve. Travelers who like adorable animals and accommodations with character may want to book a stay at Abbey Road Farm in Carlton. The bed and breakfast, on an 82-acre working farm, has guest rooms with heated floors, Jacuzzi tubs and modern farmhouse decor in three renovated grain silos. While Abbey Road has an excellent on-site chef with innkeeper Will Preisch (his satisfying breakfasts are not

to be missed), venture to Joel Palmer House in Dayton for dinner. In November, delicacies such as locally foraged mushrooms and Oregon truffles might appear on the tasting menus of this family-owned restaurant, housed in a charming 1859 farmhouse.

DAY THREE: Sip Bubbly

and Explore McMinnville Sparkling wine is no longer an afterthought in the Willamette Valley, with many well-known wineries offering bubbles. Corollary Wines produces exclusively traditional method sparkling wines such as the lemon verbena-scented 2019 Cuvée One. Tastings at Ruddick/ Wood, a restaurant and tavern in historic Newberg, will be offered by reservation on Friday and Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend. Champagne aficionados will also love the 2016 Blanc de Blancs and caviar welcome offered at Gran Moraine in Yamhill over Thanksgiving weekend, followed by a library tasting, a chance to try older wines and compare AAA Magazine

{WEEKENDER} them with newer vintages. The straw-colored Gran Moraine 2020 Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay, with its fruity, graham cracker nose and tart marzipan-lace flavor, is a great bottle to have on hand over the holidays. Officially incorporated in 1882, the town of McMinnville is filled with character. Many of the buildings on Third Street were built between 1890 and 1912 and the adjacent Granary District’s grain elevators are monuments to McMinnville’s agricultural roots. On downtown’s main drag, pop into boutiques like the women’s clothing and home goods shop Mes Amies and the small batch jam shop Alchemist’s Jam. Also on Third Street, the eight-room Tributary Hotel, a Relais & Châteaux property housed in a 100-yearold brick building, opened in 2022. Large rooms have fireplaces, writing desks and spa bathrooms. There’s also a concierge to plan private tastings and tours and one of the best restaurants in Oregon. At ōkta, Michelin-starred Chef Matthew Lightner’s 10-course Forest Menu will celebrate fall with earthy mushrooms from the farm, wild game and intriguing wine pairings, such as riesling from an old-vine vineyard in the Coastal Range. As many ingredients as possible (think Gagon melons and blue kuri squash) are sourced from the restaurant’s farm and fermentation lab 10 miles away. Expect artful bites—such as a black truffle tart with Butterbloom cheese—served in ceramic dishes handmade by local artisans. Guests and locals can duck into the Tributary’s inviting Cellar Bar with rich leather furniture for nuanced cocktails

showcasing house-made herb bitters and cordials or a special wine pour such as aged rosé from Provence.

FINAL DAY: Farm

Tours

If your interest in what’s being grown and raised in the Willamette Valley is piqued, book a private tour at Source Farms. It has a farm stand in Yamhill and offers private tours that provide a dose of fresh countryside air and a crash course in regenerative farm practices. Soter Vineyards’ Mineral Springs Ranch (MSR), in the oak tree-dotted hills above Carlton, features a 240-acre estate ranch, highland cattle, pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards, and a rustic modern tasting room. Over Thanksgiving weekend, make a reservation for the MSR Classic Tasting or the MSR Provisions Tasting, Head Chef Clayton Allen’s filling lunch experience where ingredients have been sourced almost entirely from the biodynamic kitchen garden. Casey Hatfield-Chiotti is an Oregon-based travel writer and editor with a passion for food, wine and hotels. She has covered hotel openings, dining trends and outdoor adventure for The New York Times, Forbes, Travel + Leisure, Sunset, Afar, Marin Living and more. PLAN A TRIP

Download the AAA Mobile app for maps, discounts, restaurants and lodging at AAA.com/mobile.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SOTER VINEYARDS, JOSH CHANG

Soter Vineyards’ Provisions Tasting offers a guided culinary experience at Mineral Springs Ranch.

November + December 2023

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DARK SKIES Stargazing in the West is a link to the cosmos

Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory (Note: be aware shining a light, even a small laser, on passing aircraft is not only dangerous, but illegal.)

November + December 2023

PHOTO KIRSTEN FORCE

WRITTEN BY MATTHEW WASTRADOWSKI

AAA | Via

The Milky Way above Alturas Lake, Idaho.

November + December 2023

connects us with a tradition that dates back generations. “We all have our different interpretations of the night sky, and I think that’s a very uniquely human trait,” he said. “We can all look at the same thing in our imaginations—depending on who we are, where we’re from, and who we’re surrounded by—and come up with different stories and meanings.” While not a comprehensive list of International Dark Sky Places in the American West, here are five favorite places to see starry night skies, meteor showers, and even the farthest reaches of our galaxy—with or without a telescope.

CENTRAL IDAHO DARK SKY RESERVE, IDAHO Enjoy some of the darkest night skies in the United States across the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve. Recognized in 2017, the location became the nation’s first International Dark Sky Reserve and one of only 12 worldwide. Spanning Idaho’s Sawtooth Valley and surrounded by the Sawtooth Mountains, the 1,400-square-mile reserve covers some of the state’s most beloved outdoor destinations, including Ketchum, Sun Valley and the Sawtooth National Recreation Area. So dark are the region’s night skies, it’s not uncommon to see the Milky Way while driving through the valley on state highways 75 and 21.

PHOTOS NILS RIBI

umankind has long looked to the night sky for guidance. Early mariners navigated the open seas by charting stars in the sky, farmers around the world have relied on stars to guide the harvesting of their crops, and the constellations have been a source of instruction and ritual for Native peoples for thousands of years. Even today, who hasn’t made a wish after seeing a shooting star? Today, most people won’t cross oceans or plant crops based on starry skies, but a collective love affair with stargazing persists—perhaps more strongly than ever, given technological advances that place powerful telescopes in the palms of amateur hands and mobile apps that help identify celestial wonders in seconds. Across the American West, dozens of parks and public lands enhance that experience as officially designated International Dark Sky Places. The moniker, bestowed by DarkSky International, an organization that advocates against light pollution for dark night skies, is given to areas that preserve their starry night skies by restricting or altering the use of artificial lighting at night, enacting policies to temper the haze of light pollution and offering educational programming to the general public. Michael Rymer, program associate with DarkSky International, said that even the simple act of stargazing

THIS PHOTO: Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory. BOTTOM: Fajada Butte in Chaco Culture National Historical Park.

PHOTO TOP KIRSTEN FORCE | RIGHT BETT YMAYA FOOTT

SUNRIVER, OREGON In 2020, the community of Sunriver, with a population of 1,200, was named a Dark Sky Friendly Development of Distinction by DarkSky International. It was the first location in Oregon to receive this honor. Sunriver sits about 17 miles south of Bend and has taken several steps to protect its night skies, such as limiting the number of streetlights and imposing light restrictions on buildings. The Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory is an ideal place from which to stargaze, with passionate astronomers on site to help visitors view meteor showers, planets and nebulae via the largest collection of telescopes available for public use in the United States. CHACO CULTURE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, NEW MEXICO Chaco Culture National Historical Park sits in the northwestern corner of New Mexico and covers roughly 34,000 acres. Chaco Canyon, as it’s commonly known, was originally established to protect buildings constructed long ago by the Ancestral Puebloan people, but its dark night skies have themselves been a draw. Roughly 99% of the park is considered a “natural darkness zone” due to the absence of permanent outdoor lighting, and in 2013, it was designated an International Dark Sky Park.

Park officials have embraced the public’s collective love affair with stargazing. Between April and October, staff members offer educational programming which includes presentations on Chaco’s dark night sky and its connection to the Chacoans who lived in the area more than 1,000 years ago. Find telescope-assisted viewings of stars, planets, and other celestial wonders and on December 21, observe the winter solstice at Kin Kletso, a Chacoan Great House. AAA | Via

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

Lost Trail National Wildlife Refuge

LOST TRAIL NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, MONTANA Surrounded by the Salish Mountains, the Lost Trail National Wildlife Refuge encompasses thousands of acres and a variety of ecosystems, including wideopen prairies, craggy mountain peaks, winding rivers and quiet wetlands. But the refuge, which sits an hour west of Kalispell in northwestern Montana, is just as beloved for its nighttime beauty and was designated an International Dark Sky Sanctuary in 2022. Park officials sought the designation partly to help protect its vast population of nocturnal animals, such as bats and owls, which gives viewers more to watch for while stargazing. At least once per summer, the Big Sky Astronomy Club leads star parties at the refuge’s visitor center. Matt Wastradowski is an Oregon-based travel writer who has written for REI, Outside, and Willamette Week. He has written three guidebooks to date: Moon Oregon Hiking, Moon Columbia River Gorge & Mount Hood, and Moon Oregon.

PLAN A TRIP

November + December 2023

Search for destinations and activities along your way at AAA.com/roadtrips. To plan a trip to match any specific interests, start with the help of AAA travel guides at AAA.com/travelguides.

BORREGO SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA Sixty miles northeast of San Diego sits Borrego Springs, a quiet desert community where palm trees and residents reside, and the Santa Rosa Mountains rise to the north. With almost no tree cover and little light pollution from nearby cities, Borrego Springs has transformed itself into one of California’s premier night-sky destinations, earning the designation of the state’s first International Dark Sky Community in 2009. The town is surrounded on all sides by the 600,000-acre Anza-Borrego Desert State Park— an officially designated International Dark Sky Park. Named in honor of both the Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and borrego, the Spanish word for sheep, the park’s mountainous terrain is a geologic wonder featuring wide-open badlands, palm oases, canyons and the native bighorn sheep. A remote and wild landscape, the park makes for a pristine place to view the dark night sky.

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Building Bridges Learn about past and present by visiting tribal lands WRITTEN BY DANIEL O’NEIL

MUTUAL RESPECT

A trip to Native lands begins with research and planning: Where to visit? What nations have historically lived in that place? It’s important to know which tribes are federally recognized as they will likely have museums or cultural centers where visitors can also find information on upcoming events, as well as interpretive signage at important landmarks. 38

November + December 2023

PHOTO COURTESY OF NEZ PERCE TOURISM

isiting tribal lands implies a departure from everyday America. Not only do Native Indian communities remain culturally distinct, they also remain sovereign nations—small nation-states—within the United States. In Oregon and Idaho, most tribes live in rural areas, so a road trip proves the ideal way to travel. No passport is required, just bring an open mind. “A lot of people want to experience something authentic, and I think that’s Indian Country in the United States,” said Sherry Rupert, a Paiute/Washoe and CEO of the American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Association (AIANTA). “We are the first people of this nation and our domestic neighbors should know more about us. A lot of our Native communities are open to that, and I think more people should take advantage of that opportunity.” Besides offering a platform for Native peoples to perpetuate their culture, tourism also brings economic benefits to the local communities. Just as importantly, non-Native visitors help build a bridge between societies, one that acknowledges the difficult past while looking toward a stronger future together. “These people aren’t walled off and adverse to you knowing about them,” said Dr. Deana Dartt, a Coastal Band Chumash and former curator of Native American Art at the Portland Art Museum. Dartt is founding director of Live Oak Consulting, which advises organizations that seek to partner with Native communities. “In fact, we need you to know about them and to see them as viable parts of the economy and the contemporary landscape.”

AAA Magazine

Most federally recognized tribes, tribal museums and cultural centers have websites that offer history, event schedules and advice for visiting. American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Association provides itineraries and other tourist information for tribes across the United States at www.nativeamerica.travel. For those on the go, the “Native Land” app overlays the traditional territories of Native peoples onto contemporary maps. Tribal lands and many cultural tourism sites lie well outside of the defined boundaries of a reservation. Mainstream museums such as the Portland Art Museum have permanent Native art collections and temporary exhibits, all of which highlight the traditional and contemporary art of nearby Native communities. To experience Pacific Northwest tribes in their fullest energetic expression, attend a powwow. They are held across the Pacific Northwest each summer, are intertribal, open to the public, and are rich with dance, song, tribal art and the opportunity for conversation. While experiencing a new culture, respectful manners go far. It’s important for non-Native visitors to remember that they are on tribal—not public–land,

where different laws and protocols may apply. Alcohol, for example, may be prohibited on some reservations. Photographing certain objects or events may not be allowed, and it’s always best to ask someone before taking their photo. Each nation has its own policies, another reason for research prior to visiting. Many spaces still serve as tribal gathering or ceremonial grounds, so tread lightly and leave no trace while visiting these areas. What may look like a good campsite could in fact be a gathering spot for traditional medicinal plants important to the community. Choice of words also matters. How do the people of a Native community wish to be addressed? Sherry Rupert suggests asking them. Many tribes refer to themselves using the traditional name for their people, such as the Nez Perce, who call themselves Nimiipuu (Nee-ME-Poo), which translates to “The People.” The term American Indian, and sometimes even Native American, conjures memories of colonization and is not the current preferred terminology. A respectful visit begins with curiosity. “A lot of times I hear non-Native people say, ‘I don’t want to ask the wrong question, so I just don’t say anything,’”

PHOTO AL AMY.COM/GREGORY JOHNSTON

Traditional dancers at the Kootenai County Fairgrounds in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

November + December 2023

Rupert said. “But I would say, ask questions, be inquisitive and find out more.”

PHOTO TOP AL AMY.COM/SPRING IMAGES | BOTTOM AL AMY.COM/DAVID R. FRAZIER PHOTOLIBRARY, INC.

MAKING IT AUTHENTIC

When visiting tribal lands, authenticity makes a world of difference. As cultural tourism gains momentum among tribal nations, Native tour guides fill an important role. Stacia Morfin, owner of Nez Perce Tourism, welcomes non-Native guests to her Nimiipuu homeland, sharing traditional stories and knowledge in the landscape where her culture was born more than 10,000 years ago. She explained how visitors and hosts both benefit. “When we bring out our stories, our language, there’s a connective and healing notion that goes along with that for us and for our guests, whether they even know the true history of these places or not,” Morfin said. “These are things that aren’t taught in schools. Being out on the land, getting your hands in the soil, walking in some of those ancient and sacred places is where that transformation starts to happen for us and for our guests.” Authenticity also applies to souvenirs. “Know the difference between appropriation and appreciation,” Dartt said. Federal law requires that Native-made goods be made by Native people. Gift shops on tribal lands and at museums or cultural centers ensure tribal artisanship and provide economic benefit to the community. They also create opportunities for visitors to talk with Native shopkeepers about the art and learn about other aspects of modern tribal life. Contemporary Native art, events such as powwows, the Intertribal Canoe Journey and Native-guided tours all reveal how the continent’s first cultures live very much in the present, not just in the past. The future looks promising, especially as more and more children are visiting tribal lands. “The younger we can get them to experience and be a part of Native history and culture, that’s where the true connections for allyship begin to happen,” Morfin said. Cultural tourism on Native lands presents opportunity for personal enrichment and cross-cultural reconciliation. But it’s important to consider the immediacy of colonization’s painful legacy, and understand that some Native communities prefer not to engage in cultural tourism. “Prioritize the tribes that have events such as powwows, rodeos or museums and are inviting guests in,” Dartt said. “Don’t expect that you can just drive out onto a reservation and watch how people are living.”

TOP A replica Indian Burial Canoe near the Astoria Column in Astoria, Oregon. THIS Bronze sculpture of Shoshone woman Sacagawea at the Idaho Historical Museum in Boise, Idaho.

AAA | Via

Nez Perce riders in Oregon’s Wallowa Valley.

Daniel O’Neil is an Oregon-based writer who spent a decade living abroad in both France and Spain. He has written about the arts, snowboarding, wine, food and more for multiple magazines and nonprofits.

Visit & Learn

MUSEUMS, CULTURAL CENTERS & GUIDES Nez Perce National Historical Park, Oregon and Idaho Nez Perce National Historic Trail (An auto tour through Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.) Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, Oregon Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation The Museum At Warm Springs, Oregon Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs Chachalu Tribal Museum and Cultural Center, Oregon Confederated Tribes of Grand Ronde Nez Perce Wallowa Homeland Visitor Center, Oregon Nez Perce Tourism, Idaho Guide service. See nezpercetourism.com.

Coeur d’Alene Casino Resort Hotel Cultural Tourism Program Coeur d’Alene Tribe (Schitsu’umsh) of Idaho Tulalip Tribes’ Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve, Washington

November + December 2023

PHOTO AL AMY.COM/LEON WERDINGER

Traveling through eras and connecting with tribal cultures can form part of–or all of–an eyeopening road trip, but education can also continue upon returning home. “Learn the history of the place where you live and where you’re going,” Dartt said. “Think of what it would mean to be a supportive guest in Native lands. In considering those things, visits to those places take on more meaning than just extraction or entertainment. There’s this notion that we are separated somehow, but we’re really not.”

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VISIT

South Africa Discover diverse wildlife and landscapes

PHOTO KELLY ARNOLD

WRITTEN BY PENNY E. NAKAMURA

July + August November + December 2023 2023

uKhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park

PHOTO TOP AL AMY.COM/HEMIS BOTTOM AL AMY.COM/KOBUS PECHE

nce you’ve visited South Africa, you’ll never be the same. There’s something magical about this southernmost part of the African continent, where the landscape varies from mountains to the savannah covered by wildlife preserves; from sandy beaches to a wine country that rivals Napa Valley. While visiting the country, most tourists want to check off Africa’s Big Five, which includes lions, leopards, buffaloes, elephants, and the rhinoceros. Yet in South Africa, there’s so much more wildlife to discover, such as giraffes, zebras, jackals, baboons, monkeys and the South African penguins. There are 10 designated UNESCO World Heritage sites throughout South Africa, including the Western Cape Floral region, known for being one of the world’s most diverse and abundant floral areas and home to about one-fifth of the vegetation in all of Africa. The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park is referred to as an open-air mountain museum. Boasting more than 30,000 Bushman rock art hieroglyphics in its caves, this park is home to many endangered bird and plant species.

Love Affair With a Country

Americans seem to have a love affair with South Africa. The South African Tourism Ministry reports that Americans are the fastest growing group of tourists

to the country from outside of the continent. It’s no wonder since the U.S. dollar to the South African rand is as strong as it’s ever been, making South Africa affordable. Of all the African nations, South Africa has an infrastructure similar to the more developed countries of the north. This is especially noticeable in its bigger cities such as Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban. In rural areas, known as the “bush,” the various African tribes still speak in their tribal languages and practice their tribal traditions. However, in most places throughout the country, people do speak English, making communication simple. AAA | Via

This sub-tropical region stretches more than 136 miles along the East Coast from St. Lucia to the Mozambique border. iSimangaliso is a natural ecosystem ranging from dune, swamp and coastal forests to rocky and sandy shores, coral reefs, mangroves and woodlands. It’s the largest protected wetland in Southern Africa. It is also one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites and one of the regions where travelers are likely to see hippopotamuses and crocodiles.

UNDERSTANDING THE HISTORY OF APARTHEID

To get a deeper understanding of modern South Africa, one should brush up on the history of the country. An educational starting point is in Johannesburg’s Apartheid Museum, the first of its kind to illustrate

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A safari exists for every taste and budget. Take a five-star luxury safari, where a base camp resort may include a pool and spa, plus gourmet meals. For the more budget conscience, there are camping safaris where travelers “rough it” in elevated tents. A plethora of other safari companies offer everything in between. What many safari outfitters have in common is that the guides are extremely knowledgeable. In an effort to keep tourists both safe and informed, plus preserve the wildlife and natural landscape, all guides must pass stringent exams given by the South African Tourism board, as part of a government-sanctioned certification process. The country’s most famous park for safari is Kruger National Park where dozens of safari companies venture; but there are also private preserves throughout the country, such as Sabi Sands. Regardless of what safari is selected, it’s an adventure like no other.

ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK IN KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE

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Get Wild—Take A Safari

OPPOSITE PAGE Safari truck and wild rhinoceros in Western Cape South Africa. TOP Aerial view of Camps Bay, Cape Town. BOTTOM Bo Kaap Township, Cape Town.

the rise and fall of the oppressive apartheid policies that governed South Africa at one time. Nelson Mandela figures prominently at the museum. He was held in prison for 18 years on the remote Robben Island, and imprisoned 27 years total, for his political activism and efforts to bring equal rights for black South Africans. Visitors to the museum learn how he led the negotiations in the 1990s for a free South Africa and served as the first president of a democratic South Africa in 1994.

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CAPE TOWN ON THE SEA

After Johannesburg, Cape Town is South Africa’s second largest city, often referred to as the Mother City because it was the first area to be colonized. Cape Town has served as the port for sea voyagers on the Atlantic Ocean coastline since the 1400s; here, find a mélange of Malay, French, Dutch, Portuguese and African traditions captured in this dynamic beach city. While in Cape Town, don’t miss the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and the World Heritage Site of Table Mountain National Park. At Table Mountain, hike up a challenging 3-mile trail or take a gondola to the top for a magnificent view of the area.

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THE CAPE WINE COUNTRY

From Cape Town, it is about an hour’s drive to the wine region of South Africa. The Dutch East India Company first transported and planted grapes in this region in the 1650s. Explore one of the six wine routes and go wine tasting in the two historical wine towns of Stellenbosch, founded by the Dutch, or the Franschhoek region, founded by the French. It’s possible to hire a driver and car to safely sample wines on the route. Most hotels in the area can make reservations for visitors for the many daily wine tours.

PLANNING YOUR HOLIDAY TO SOUTH AFRICA

American citizens traveling to South Africa don’t need a visa to enter the country. Summer begins in Africa in November and lasts until February, making it an attractive time to visit for an escape from the winter weather in North America. Penny E. Nakamura is a journalist both for magazines and newspapers and has written about a range of subjects across the globe. She lived in South Africa with her husband, Hal.

PLAN A TRIP

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Stellenbosch, South Africa.

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REJOICE

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Cervidae Peak, Boise National Forest

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