Contents
28 REST & RELAX
Summer beckons and we are ready to kick off the heels and slip on a pair of comfy sandals for the warm days of Doha.
29 ON OUR RADAR
GLAM
34 BEYOND THE CLOAK
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .C O M
APRIL 2014
Fashion and art collide resulting in highly stylistic campaigns and sculptural accessories while clutches take on new unconventional forms.
Abayas get new shapes and forms in a modern update. Waad Designs, Darz Designs and FufiStylists lead the way.
40 RALPH & RUSSO
Couture’s new royalty duo tell us about the changing landscape of fantasy fashion.
Contents 46 BEAUTY & BLOGS
Armed with social media as their weapon of choice, four bloggers based in the Middle East share style secrets and why the Internet is everything.
52 COOL HUNTER
Avenue32 is in a class of its own when it comes to curating and sourcing talents from every corner of the world.
64 JEANNE LANVIN
Walking into the private office of Jeanne Lanvin in Paris, we relive the 125 year history behind the Lanvin legacy.
72 CRUCIANI
The Italian spirit is one of persistence and uncompromising quality. Luca Caparai tells his story of world domination with just one bracelet.
76 AMBER VALETTA
The new face of H&M’s Conscious campaign, Amber tells us why it is important to question where and how our lives can be more sustainable.
96 CRUNCH TIME
Our writer Ayswarya Murthy takes on the challenge of a lifetime to change the way she trains and eat in twelve weeks.
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE APRIL 2014
ON THE COVER JULA REPRESENTED BY MONSTER AGENCY PHOTOGRAPHER: JULIAN HARGREAVES
GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA
EDITOR
SINDHU NAIR DEBRINA ALIYAH
CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS
ABIGAIL MATHIAS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI AYSWARYA MURTHY
PHOTOGRAPHER
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
VENKAT REDDY
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
HANAN ABU SIAM
ROB ALTAMIRANO
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
SENIOR MANAGER – MARKETING
ASSISTANT MANAGER – MARKETING
SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS
HASAN REKKAB
LYDIA YOUSSEF
MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT
SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE
DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT
AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B ZULFIKAR JIFFRY THOMAS JOSE
KANWAL BALUCH PRATAP CHANDRAN BIKRAM SHRESTHA ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI
BASANTHA.P
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF
YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
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SANDEEP SEHGAL
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT
ALPANA ROY
VICE PRESIDENT
RAVI RAMAN
EVENTS OF THE MONTH Center Front: Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar’s 15th Annual Fashion Show 15 to 17 April, 6.30pm The Gate Mall Center Front showcases the work of VCUQ’s fashion design sophomores, juniors and seniors, launching the latter from students into successful designers. The show will present a lineup of distinct and individual creative looks that the students have researched, experimented with, and now present for the audience. Tickets are available for purchase online for QR50 each. Proceeds will be used to send design students on a Reach Out to Asia service trip to Bayat Vocational School in Indonesia. During the trip, VCUQatar students provide vital instruction in art, design and crafts to the students of Bayat, enabling them to use their new found skills to launch a sustainable career.
COMING UP
GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL. THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION. CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982
May marks our annual bridal issue, a style celebration for those who are tying the knot this year. Interviews with emerging and top bridal designers as well as pages of the latest in bridal trends to help you make some of the most important style choices in your life!
Contributors JULIE DE BRITO The Remede Spa at the St. Regis Doha and GLAM have paired up to offer skincare and well-being tips for our readers in a column answered by Julie De Brito. Be it questions, comments, or just to enquire about new products, drop us a line on our social pages, @GlamQatar on Twitter and www.facebook.com/GlamQatar and we will get the therapists to answer them! If you prefer to be anonymous, just tell us and we will gladly respect your privacy.
ABDUL RAHMAN AL-BAKER Young, electric, perfectionist! These are a few words to describe Abdul Rahman’s personality and work ethics. He graduated with a BFA of Fine Art majoring in Graphic Designs and Technology from Emmanuel College, Boston. He has since worked in PR, managing all creative aspects of various projects that include filming, photography, design and events management. He lends his fantastic photographic eye to our fashion editorial this month.
ALEXANDRA KOHUT- COLE Previously an editor at Harper's BAZAAR Singapore, journalist Kohut-Cole pursued a fashion journalism degree in London before working at Conde Nast where she was instrumental in the publication of Vogue Women. Having lived in London, Switzerland, Singapore and now Qatar, she has written her way around the world on anything from fashion and beauty to travel, lifestyle and food.
BLANCA MONTENEGRO Blanca is a no stranger to the hair and make-up scene of Doha, having worked extensively with JCCTV, Al Jazeera News, top filmmakers, photographers, talent agencies, fashion magazines and local celebrities. With close to 30 years of international experience, she also specialises in Brazilian Keratin, spray tan, 3DM eyelash extension and eyebrows services. Find her at montenegroblanka0@gmail.com
YOUR VOICE ON TWITTER & FACEBOOK Our report on Selina Farooqui Zineb Ait-Elmkadem As usual Selina, an amazing work ! Keep goin’ Greetings from Paris Fab Fashionistas Cathy Rodrigues I liked the article - Its not about looking younger. The way the elder ladies were dressed and were looking great and young, the thoughts and aspirations they shared about fashion.It really changed the way we perceive age.
LETTERS Reading Glam is always something I do on the weekends. Away from all my maddening tasks and duties. Your Mothers Day special touched a chord and resonated with me and I’m sure with Mum’s everywhere. Bettina M.L. Shocked to read about the sudden death of L’wren Scott. I do hope more is done to bring mental health in to the open. Hope her contribution to the world of fashion isn’ t soon forgotten. A. Montazza
G Talk o be completely frank, there have been too many tragedies this month for us to begin revelling in the new Spring season. Qatar is like a convergence point in the modern world - those who live here are connected in so many ways to events unfurling thousands of miles away. We listen sympathetically to a friend who recounts her long-distance phone conversations with a mother of one of the passengers onboard MH370, hoping beyond hope that the son might still be alive. We struggle as we watch friends pray for their families to be rescued from the Washington landslide. And we said silent prayers when we heard the news of L’wren Scott’s suicide, something completely surprising and shocking, since we have all been enthralled by her spirit for life at her recent Qatar appearance last December. We don’t claim to know the late designer, for our exchange was brief during her visit here. But it was something that she told one of our local designers, Layla Asgar Siyabi, during the Q and A session at her talk for the students of VCUQ that had remained in our minds. “You must remain true to your own style and aesthetics, and not make what other people want to see, but what you really want,” Scott had advised. The talented designer had lived her life on her own terms and wished nothing more than to see other women chart their own course too. In this day, this individuality in the voice of style is much cherished. It is the most singular element that will separate those who truly live a cultivated life from the fifteen-minutes-offame pack. Which is why, in this issue, we have gone slightly clandestine - away from the spotlight to bring you stories from the fashion world that resonate with a heart and soul. The tenacious spirit of Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo that have earned them the nod of approval by the Paris Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the earth-friendly actress Amber Valetta who takes up the cause of fashion sustainability, and the 125-year history of Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy as we relished the moment of walking into her legendary Paris office, have all made us take a step back and rediscover the fundamental beauty of fashion. And as the Chinese proverb goes, “new waves always follow after the old comes ashore,” the emergence of new talents will keep the torch going. Meet the new generation of Arab style makers like Imaan Ali who leads the way for the modest hijab-wearing fans, and Waad Ali, the abaya-designer who has changed the way the traditional cloak is viewed and worn. These alleviating shifts certainly provide a silver lining to the sombre moment.
EDITOR’S PICK L’WREN SCOTT’S STYLE AND AESTHETICS WERE REMINISCENT OF OLD WORLD ROMANCE. IT IS AN OLD FASHIONED YET HIGH DRAMA PERSONA THAT THERE IS NOTHING QUITE THE SAME IN CONTEMPORARY FASHION TIMES. COMING FROM A CONSERVATIVE BACKGROUND, SHE SOARED TO GREAT HEIGHTS ARMED WITH THE BELIEF THAT SHE IS DESTINED FOR SOMETHING MORE. AND INDEED SHE WAS. SHE IS PICTURED IN DOHA, WITH HAT DESIGNER, STEPHEN JONES.
GLAM / NEWS
APRIL 2014
CHLOE LAUNCHES SUMMER COLLECTION
The Summer 2014 See by Chloe girl is playful, modern, pretty and sweet. With her unkempt hair, and her quirky yet preppy fashion, she has the allure of an English university student escaped from campus for a little get-away weekend at her grandmother’s pad in Normandy. There, she dresses to match the chic and classic style in which the Norman cottage is decorated; she alternates printed poplin apron dresses, zippered lace, patchworks of asymmetrical stripes, kneelength Bermuda’s and Oxford collared shirts. She pairs it all up with transparent heeled strappy sandals and soft slouchy totes.
20 \ NEWS BUZZ ART OR SOUND TO BE HOSTED IN VENICE
The Fondazione Prada will present the exhibition “Art or Sound” at its Venetian venue of Ca’ Corner della Regina. Curated by Germano Celant, it will run from 7 June to 3 November, 2014. Conceived as an investigation of the past and our present, the purpose of “Art or Sound” is to analyze the development of a productive and complex dialogue. It will consider the relationship between art and sound, iconic aspects of the musical instrument, the role of the artistmusician, and the areas in which the visual arts and music have come together and blurred. The exhibition will occupy the ground floor and two main floors of Ca’ Corner della Regina. For the first time since the Venetian palazzo was reopened to the public, the rooms on the second piano nobile will be used. This provides 1000 square metres of exhibition space that has been restored as part of the renovation of the building undertaken in 2011 by the Fondazione Prada. The project analyses the overlap between the production of both art and sound, music and the visual arts, with the aim of highlighting the constant exchange between them, though eschewing unnecessary categorisation.
NET-A-PORTER.COM PARTNERS WITH V&A FOR ITALIAN FASHION EXHIBITION
Net-a-porter, the world’s premier online luxury fashion retailer has partnered with the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London to create an exclusive fashion jewellery collection in celebration of The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 exhibition. The 22 piece limited edition collection which consists of rings, necklaces, cuffs, bracelets and earrings created by established Italian designers; Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Etro and Moschino, will be available exclusively through Net A Porter and the V&A Shop in store and online at www.vandashop.com. This is the first time the V&A have worked with an online luxury retailer on a collaboration such as this. The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 explores Italy’s rich contribution to modern fashion. Leading Italian fashion houses, forgotten post war designers and emerging Italian fashion talent will be showcased alongside film and fashion photography of the period. The V&A Italian Fashion Jewellery Collection will be available on Net A Porter from 2 April.
22 \ NEWS BUZZ
FASHION EXTRAVAGANZA
Stars, glitz and glamour in abundance featured at the opening of Germany’s first Fendi boutique. The luxury Italian brand held the official opening of its store at a historical 19th Century building, recently. Around 300 guests had been invited to an exclusive cocktail reception at the new premises. Many top guests received a personal welcome from the hosts, Pietro Beccari (Chairman and CEO of Fendi), Karl Lagerfeld (Creative Director) and Silvia Venturini Fendi (Creative Director Accessories). Over champagne and gourmet delicacies, the VIPs had the opportunity to examine the latest Fendi collection in the store’s two floors and 365 square metres. In addition to ready-to-wear and accessories, particularly popular departments among female guests were the made-to-order Cornerand the VIP Room for individual fittings.
BREAKING NEWS
Phoebe Philo was received at Buckingham Palace, in London and awarded an OBE for her services to fashion, presented by Prince Charles himself. For the occasion, the British creative director of Céline ditched her signature biker jacket and trousers, opting instead for a simple, short-sleeved black dress with a white ribbon wrapped loosely around her neck. With the stately award pinned to her chest, she appeared dignified and regal - an altogether fitting look for the universally beloved designer.
GLAM / SHOP
APRIL 2014 MULBERRY INTRODUCES THE NEW KENSAL SHOULDER BAG FROM THE SPRING SUMMER 2014 CATWALK Mulberry created a completely new bag especially for the Spring Summer 2014 catwalk - the Kensal Shoulder Bag. Now available in stores and online, the Kensal Shoulder Bag celebrates craft simplicity: a folded piece of exquisite leather stitched, inked and finished with a traditional briefcase lock to form a slim, elegant and versatile shoulder bag worn on a long strap. This new bag has a modern twist on a classic envelope design: it is double sided! Mirror-image front and back sections both secure with a briefcase lock and give double the room for everyday essentials. Available in two sizes, the Kensal Shoulder Bag and Kensal Small Shoulder Bag are available in a variety of new season colours including Black, Oak, Fiery Red or Cream Velvet Calf Leather, Midnight Blue Haircalf Mix Leather and Pavement Grey Ostrich Mix Leather.
26 \ SHOPTALK
AIGNER LAUNCH IN QATAR Since its inception in 1965, Aigner has developed a reputation for unique craftsmanship and perfection in every detail. Etienne Aigner ensured that his first creation was the epitome of leather handiwork, and with every new collection, the same standards of excellence are continued. With almost 50 years of success under the solemn spell of the horseshoe, a symbol of good luck remains the brand’s distinctive symbol around the world. The AIGNER motif stands for the high quality standard set by the company. Tradition and heritage are combined into a perfectly balanced entity. In keeping true with its heritage and timeless etiquette, Aigner premiered its Spring/Summer 2014 collection of watches and jewellery at the unveiling of its new boutique at Pari Gallery in Ezdan mall. The exclusive affair saw an attendance from the crème of Qatar’s fashion and cultural circles.
ARM CANDY Drawing inspirations from fashion trends across the world created by a young ambitious team, Juno bags are all about detailing when it comes to this season’s style. Playful embellishments, statement trappings and grainy fabrics make it tricky to carry just one back home. From a range of subtle earthy colours to more dramatic reds and mustard, the collection is an easy choice for shoppers. An adornment to a cocktail party or a night out, City Lifestyle gives us umpteen reasons to visit its stores from accessories to bags.
28 \ SHOPTALK
NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED Luxury accessories brand Maison du posh by designer Azreal Sky. After working with top fashion houses Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, Azreal Sky was given the drive and desire to create his own luxury goods for stylish women around the world. His original and distinctive designs are instantly recognisable and his attention to detail shine throughout the collection. The inspiration behind Maison Du Posh is Azreal Sky’s South African roots and his extensive travelling across the globe, mixed with his own spirituality and beliefs.
30 SAVE
5 ●
VS
5 ●
SPLURGE
REST
4 ●
4 ●
2 ●
RELAX
3 ●
Warm sunny days are back and while shorts and tees are not the usual standard in Doha, some subtle skin-baring can be excused with the right essential pieces. By way of a nod to this month’s major music and art festival, Coachella, which normally delivers all kinds of fashion inspirations, we pick out some ‘the living is easy’ pieces ala the jazz standard ‘Summertime’. Matching pant and cropped top ensemble in prints with toned down white cover-ups, and your feet gets a respite with flat sandals. Make sure you get a good pedicure in earthy nail colours while the straw hat finishes the perfect rest and relax look. 1 ●
SAVE 1 Embellished sandal, QR151, H&M. ● 2 Polka Dot Cropped Top, QR151, H&M. ● 3 ● Polka Dot Pants, QR202, H&M. 4 White Blouse, QR252, H&M. ● 5 Straw Hat, QR125, Zara. ●
H&M and Zara are available at Villaggio and Landmark Mall.
2 ●
3 ●
1 ●
SPLURGE 1 Floral Print Sandals, QR3,521, Givenchy, The Gate. ● 2 Floral Cropped Top, QR2,490, Dolce & Gabbana, Villaggio Mall. ● 3 Floral Pants, QR2,908, Dolce & Gabbana, Villaggio Mall. ● 4 White Silk Blouse, QR4,180, Chloe, Porto Arabia. ● 5 Straw Hat with Print Scarf, QR2,333, Lanvin, Villaggio Mall. ●
AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
YAZBUKEY BOX CLUTCH
When Impressions Boutique first opened its doors in Doha some two years ago, the Yazbukey statement pins featuring images of celebrities including Lady Gaga and Karl Lagerfeld became an instant hit. They were great pick-me-up accessories on the abaya. This season, Yazbukey continues with 3D-sculpted clutches that look anything but a clutch including this really cool Live Fast Die Young version that we have spotted on many street style photos. Made from perspex and plexiglass, the clutch features an interior mirror and closes magnetically. Yazbukey was founded by Egyptian designer Yaz, and is now available at www.valerydemure. com. The clutches start from QR2,968.
LOUBOUTIN
This is most definitely the season for period art lovers as even Christian Louboutin has brought the playfulness of his modern work together with the delicate pieces of Monet and Van Gogh. Acclaimed photographer Peter Lippmann shoots the brand’s Spring Summer 2014 collection in a creative collaboration inspired by the floral works of the two famous impressionists. The result is a visually stunning ‘spot-theshoe’ series of photographs, with pieces carefully nestled within and around floral arrangements and table settings. Christian Louboutin is at Villaggio Mall.
32 \ TRENDS
CASATI COLLECTION
Looking back and moving forward, CH Carolina Herrera finds inspiration in Marchesa Luisa Casati in presenting her new Casati handbag collection. An icon and constant source of inspiration during the first few decades of the 20th Century (also the namesake of the famous US label Marchesa in the 21st Century), Casati’s extravagant lifestyle, bold fashion statements, and eccentric personality captivated some of the most influential artists and designers of the era including Léon Beask, Paul Poiret, Erté and Giovanni Boldini. Considered to be the world’s first female dandy among the European high society, Luisa Casati was the muse for both renowned portraits and innovative collections, satisfying her desire for immortalization. Casati was quoted stating “I want to be a living work of art.” In the same vein, Carolina Herrera takes inspiration from Marchesa with the new accessory collection. CH Carolina Herrera is at Villaggio Mall.
HKD
HKD, short for Hooked, is a conceptual jewellery line founded by the bright and roving Farah Nasri, whose novel creations have garnered quite a buzz. Finding inspiration in art history and mythology, the pieces are a cross between art sculptures and statement adornment jewellery. Earrings do not come in pairs, and the pieces are often oversized but that has never been an issue to the fashion forward dresser. Reconstructing Vermeer’s Golden Age painting, the Girl With a Pearl Earring, HKD has launched the Sombre earring made of resin and pearl. The pearl sizes are interchangeable to individual liking and are available at D’NA boutique at Porto Arabia, The Pearl.
BARABOUX
On evenings when all you need are your mobile phone and keys, there cannot be a more stylish contraption than the Reema clutch from Baraboux. Made out of water snake and stingray leather, the gorgeous blush gradient colour turns it into more of an accessory than a bag. It is lined in silk and discreetly opens with a push on the cuff. Baraboux, a chic bag label conceived in Riyadh by Sheikha Reema Bandar Al Saud, has been quietly making waves in Paris among the fashion insider crowd since its launch in 2013. With its collection of both functional and whimsical bags, the label has recently partnered with fashion editor Caroline Issa to produce a special collaboration. The Reema clutch is available for QR5,370 at www. baraboux.com
STYLE THIS / 33 Keep It Twice Bracelet, QR1,511, Louis Vuitton, Villaggio Mall.
Leather Peplum Abaya, QR496, XELA Abaya, www.namshi.com
Auburn Cuff, QR1929, Swarovski, Lagoona Mall.
MOD ABAYA
If you deconstruct the age-old abaya, it is essentially a black cloak or a black maxi dress, depending on which regional style you are referring to but nonetheless still a stylish monotone ensemble that exudes a sense of elegance. And with the region’s rising profile of new fashion talents, it is least surprising to see new interpretations of the cultural dress, weaving in trendy elements for a modern outlook. Haya’s Closet experiments with biased drapes while XELA gives a fun leather peplum, resulting in pieces perfect for special occasions. Accessories aside, a nice au courant touch to the abaya is the cape – a simple yet dignified finishing touch.
Alligator effect Tote, Paule Ka, www.pauleka.com
Drape Abaya, QR346, Haya’s Closet, www.namshi.com
Perspex Bangle, Paule Ka, www. pauleka.com
Pivoine Mystérieuse clip in white and red gold, diamonds and Mystery-Set rubies, Van Cleef Arpels, Villaggio Mall.
Woven Raffia Loafers, QR2,311, Nicholas Kirkwood, The Closet, Porto Arabia.
Crepe de Chine cape embroidered with silk flowers, Poca Poca, www.pocapoca.com
Escarpin D’Orsay, QR2,237, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, www.ysl.com
34 \ TRENDS Bottega Veneta
Salvatore Ferragamo
Actress Emma Roberts in a Lanvin shirtdress with Elbar Albez at the Lanvin’s AW2014 show.
TRENDING
The best of both worlds comes together in the shirt dress, the masculine sharp tailoring of a shirt, elongated in a straight silhouette as a feminine dress. Variations in different fabrics make it appropriate for different occasions – CH Carolina Herrera’s floor-length V-neck version calls for an evening do while Salvatore Ferragamo’s sleeveless pinstripe number in suiting fabrics makes for great power dressing. Shoes play a big part with knee-length shirtdresses and while high heels always make for a safe choice, slim boots adds a dominatrix factor and flat sandals tones down the look for a casual weekend jaunt.
House of Holland
SHIRTDRESS
Caroline Herrera
TRENDS / 35
Temperley London
GoldenEagle
Carolina Herrera
DSquared
DSquared
TRENDING
HIGH SOCIETY Flouncy skirts and a tight bodice may sound like the leading ladies of Jane Austen, fortunately in a modern spin without the corsets and more forgiving hemlines. Ladylike dressing makes a big comeback this season sans the frills. An ode to a conservatively chic silhouette and playing with volumes and fabrics, the trend spells out like the lunching ladies of 1960s New York. Fashion editor Mira Duma leads the way in a deep-khaki ensemble by Noon By Noor, in a cocoon coat and delicately embellished knee-length skirt.
Falcon
Carolina Herrera
BEYOND THE CLOAK
NEW SHAPES, NEW COLOURS, AND NEVER THE SAME AGAIN. THE CHANGING FACE OF THE ABAYA IS DRIVEN BY THE EVOLVING NEEDS OF THE MODERN WOMEN OF QATAR. AS TRAVELS, OCCASIONS AND PROFESSIONAL COMMITMENTS TAKE THEM TO NEW PLACES, DESIGNERS UPDATE THEIR CHERISHED CULTURAL CLOAK TO SUIT THEIR NEW STRIDE. THREE QATAR-BASED FASHION LABELS SHOW US WHAT THE FUTURE OF THE ABAYA LOOKS LIKE.
FUFISTYLIST ABAYA The Summer 2014 collection is a reflection of FufiStylist’s signature look that plays with colour blocking and the cocoon silhouette. We have long been big fans of this flattering silhouette as it pushes the design beyond the standard abaya cut, making it appealing even to the non-abaya wearing audience. The cocoon shape makes it versatile enough to turn into a dress or a coat reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga’s sack dress.
SPOTLIGHT / 37
WAAD DESIGNS Unconventional materials make for this breakthrough collection from Waad Designs. The Qatari designer Waad Ali has been finding her footing for the past few collections and has finally found her unique design standpoint. Using a combination of wool blend and knit materials, she finishes the pieces with her special embroidery touches on silhouettes that are easy and relaxed. All the pieces are made to order and would make great additions to the travelling abaya wardrobe.
DARZ DESIGN’S ROUGE COUTURE Our home front leading abaya brand Darz Design is the ultimate go-to for classic and occasion-wear abayas. Setting the gold standard for the traditional Qatari-cuts as well as regal pieces for weddings, the Rouge Couture collection is an extension of the label’s focus on elegance and femininity. Lace overlays, capes, and V-neck lines are the standout elements of the collection.
38 \
Monique Lhuillier’s collection at Fifty One East
At the Corniche against the Doha skyline
MONIQUE’S DOHA
DRESSED IN A GORGEOUS AMBER JUMPSUIT, AMERICAN FASHION DESIGNER MONIQUE LHUILLIER MADE HER DEBUT APPEARANCE IN QATAR AT FIFTY ONE EAST IN A PRESENTATION TO PREVIEW A CAPSULE OF HER FALL 2014 COLLECTION.
Colours of the Souk
Fifty One East presentation
Strike a pose at the Museum of Islamic Arts Doha
At the presentation, guests were also treated to a personal introduction to the designer’s Resort and Spring 2014 collection, as well as gowns worn by stars at the recent 2014 Oscar ceremony. Monique shared fashion tips and styling advice and also spoke extensively on her bridal collections, a signature aesthetic that has shot the designer to fame as one of the premier bridal designers in America. “I am so excited by this visit. I am intrigued by the glamour and beautiful culture of this city. The women embody dramatic style and sophistication and I love the opportunity to dress them,” Monique says. The designer also made pit stops at the Museum of Islamic Arts and Souq Waqif to soak in the local culture. Monique Lhuillier’s Spring 2014 collection is dedicated to delicately balanced textures, innovative layering and sophisticated ease. A rich colour palette includes coral, fuchsia and red pop against neutrals like cream, soft rose gold and nude. Evening gowns evoke ease and elegance and asymmetrical silhouettes are a new interpretation of traditional eveningwear. Monique Lhuillier’s eveningwear, bridal and shoe collections are available exclusively at Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall.
RED CARPET / 39
ALL
Angelina Jolie on the red carpet of the Oscars
PARTIES CELEB-SPOTTING AT OSCAR’S EVENTS IN LOS ANGELES.
Chopard Red Carpet Collection earrings worn by Cate Blanchett
Cate Blanchett in Armani Prive dress and Chopard earrings on red carpet
Amy Adams in Carolina Herrera at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Angelina Jolie in Elie Saab dress, Ferragamo shoes & clutch, and Robert Procop Jewels. Brad Pitt in Tom Ford.
40 \ RED CARPET
Lupita Nyong’o in Prada at the award ceremony
Helena Christensen in Carolina Herrera at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Brie Larson in Miu Miu dress, Prada bag and shoes at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Cristoph Waltz and Lupita Nyong’o, both in Prada, at the award ceremony. Catherine Martin in Prada with her award at the ceremony
Kristen Bell in Roberto Cavalli dress and Ferragamo clutch on the red carpet
Anne V in top-to-toe Salvatore Ferragamo at Elton John AIDS Foundation Academy Awards Viewing Party
Jennifer Lawrence in Christian Dior couture dress and Ferragamo clutch on the red carpet Kate Hudson in Zuhair Murad Couture and Ferragamo clutch at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Rita Ora in Miu Miu at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party Penelope Cruz in Giambattista Valli Couture and Chopard earrings
Julie Delpy in Jenny Packham dress and Chopard jewels on the red carpet
Pharrell Williams in Lanvin tuxedo and shorts ensemble with his wife Helen Lasichanh
Lupita Nyong’o in Miu Miu at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Petra Nemcova in Ralph & Russo Haute Couture at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party
Penelope Cruz in H&M Conscious Exclusive gown at Vanity Fair Oscar Party
42 \ FASHION
TIMELESS ROMANCE BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
WHEN YOU HAVE FASHIONED THE BEAUTIFUL, NEAR PERFECT CHIC COSTUMES FOR THE LEADING LADY OF QATAR, BESIDES THE A HOST OF CELEBRITIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD, WITHIN A SHORT SPAN OF TIME, THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY ABOUT YOU. THE BRAND FROM RALPH AND RUSSO EXPLAINS WHAT MAKES THEM THE RUNWAY’S MOST CELEBRATED DUO.
is perhaps the invigorating mix of Tamara Ralph (32) and Michael Russo (33), who make up the brand Ralph & Russo, a mix of the raw ambition of Micheal and tailoring expertise of Tamara that saw this real-life couple make the 2013 edition of Fortune Magazine’s ‘40 under 40’ list, along with Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg and Yahoo!’s Marissa Mayer. Remarkably, six years into its founding, the firm is growing 400% a year. Their designs evoke an era of timeless elegance and yet have a modern touch. The pair, both from Australia, met in 2003 and the rest is of course fashion history. Born into a family of fashion and tailoring of four generations before her, Tamara, the creative director of the brand, was easily inclined towards the field. It’s no surprise then that she was self-taught years before graduating from Sydney’s Whitehouse Institute of Design. Her flair and sheer mileage in creating dresses for her inner circle swiftly sprung into a thriving business, designing for Australia’s elite. Micheal brings a wealth of experience in business to the team as well. In an exclusive interview with Glam, we discover how this dynamic duo is carving a niche in the fashion industry.
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Describe the experience of being the first and only British house to be elected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture at Paris Haute Couture Week. What was your first reaction on receiving the news? Michael: We were both elated! To be recognised and invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture for our design and craft is such an honour. Ralph & Russo are the first British brand in almost 100 years to present our Haute Couture collection alongside other prestigious houses such as Chanel, Christian Dior, and Valentino. It’s the highest accolade we could have been awarded.
Angelina Jolie in light grey silk-cashmere herringbone tailored pencil gown with pleated neckline and matching belt.
The Ralph and Russo SS14 Collection celebrated vintage screen style of the 40s and 50s. Can you tell us of some of the stars that inspired you to create these sophisticated looks? Tamara: I love admiring the styles of screen sirens from the 1940’s and 1950’s - it’s my favourite era and there is always a hint of inspiration from this in each of our designs! They represent a bygone era of glamour, sophistication and romance and the mysteriousness of the Hollywood smokescreen adds to their alluring beauty and charm. There are so many iconic women from this period, however some of my favourites are Greta Garbo, Faye Dunaway, Ava Gardner and who can forget the infamous Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn. Owing to the fact that you are celebrated for making the 40 under 40 list and up against many established brands, do you feel the pressure
HH Sheikha Mozah of Qatar in teal silk gown with tulle overlay and matching turban.
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to create more than your predecessors? Michael: Being listed in Fortune’s 40 under 40 was totally unexpected and overwhelming. To be recognised alongside the likes of Mark Zuckerberg and Marissa Mayer is a true honour. I respect everyone on the list and it’s a real privilege to be acknowledged alongside them. Very few luxury or fashion houses have featured but we hope this will change in the coming years. Qatar’s own Sheikha Mozah Bint Nasser is one of your many distinguished clients as are other international personalities. Please describe the process of creating designs for royalty. Are there any designs that you are currently working on which you can share details? Tamara: We are fortunate enough to count many high profile personalities and international royalty as our clients and we work closely with each and every one of them. As the Creative Director, I personally sketch designs for all of our clients tailoring them to their individual requirements. I take every element into account, from the event they’re attending to body shape, skin tone, fabric options and embellishments - no detail is overlooked. It may be a request for a special piece for a wedding, a state visit or a whole wardrobe which needs to accommodate everything from palace wear through to tailored daywear and evening ballgowns. Each client inspires me and I’ve been known to present 80 designs for one client before. As a couple that works together do creative differences pop up more often than not? How do you overcome them? Tamara: It actually works really well as we both work on different sides of the business; Michael the commercial and I the creative. Of course we can’t always agree on everything and sometimes have different ideas about things but we are lucky in that no matter what, we both value and respect each other’s opinions and feedback. Our different career backgrounds and experiences complement each other perfectly; two heads are definitely better than one. Tamara has a strong background in couture coming from three generations of couturiers. What was it like starting out at the tender
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age of 10 and how do you hope to inspire others? Tamara: I was immersed in the world of fashion and couture from a very young age and it was the best thing for me. My grandmother actually started me on my couture journey, teaching me what couture was, how important the craft is and ultimately inspired me to pursue a career in couture. Having such an inspirational and talented figure in my life was invaluable. It’s something I want to be able to do for my team and for those around me. Spending time nurturing and encouraging talent is vital, not only for inspiring couturiers and designers but for the industry itself. What do you feel is the function of couture in the modern day fashion industry? A lot of couture houses now walk the fine line between producing fantasy shows versus actually something tailored for the clients. Michael: I think many people still perceive haute couture as elaborate, un-wearable gowns used to create drama but there is so much more to it than that. For some houses it’s a fantastical and magical world created to sell lifestyle products but for us, everything we create not only needs to be beautiful but fit into the lifestyle of our client’s lives. Everything we design is tailored specifically for each and every one of our clients - to their exact measurements, requirements and lifestyle. What is your opinion of fashion from the Middle East? Tamara: Fashion in the Middle East is so inspirational - I always admire the intricate detailing and embellishments. It has come a long way in the past five years and I love the innovative use of colour and texture; the union of modernity and tradition is always so well executed. The Middle East has become a key hub for international designers to flock to over the years and I’m glad to see home grown talent is being internationally recognised. Michael: We’re always interested in having conversations about new ventures and opportunities and there is something so timeless and elegant about Middle Eastern fashion that a collaboration like this could be perfect for our brand. Never say never.
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BEAUTY BLOGS BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS PHOTOS BY ABDUL RAHMAN AL BAKER SHOT AT W HOTEL & RESIDENCES DOHA
WHAT MIGHT FOUR DIVERSE WOMEN FROM DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD HAVE IN COMMON? THESE ARE FOUR INDEPENDENT WOMEN WHO CLEARLY KNOW THEIR STYLE BUT DO THEY KNOW HOW TO WRITE ABOUT FASHION TOO? WE BRING YOU FRONT ROW ACCESS TO THE WORLD OF FOUR TRENDY BLOGGERS WHO SHARE WHAT MAKES THE WORLD WIDE WEB SO FASHIONABLE.
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FLORENCE ROLDES HINT OF BEAUTIFUL
FLORENCE ROLDES IS FROM FRANCE. SHE IS IN LOVE WITH EVERYTHING VINTAGE.
Contrary to what one might expect, she is not just floored by Marilyn Monroe or Audrey Hepburn, she follows and ardently admires Elsa Billqren. This French lady prefers no cliches about her individuality, “Style is not something that came up by no chance,” Florence says. “You don’t wake up at 16 thinking, I want to dress up like my grandma! Vintage style is something that owes everything to the beauty of the 60s and 70s.” “I love the aesthetics, anything that tells a story,” she says. Her blog is four-years-old and it has changed drastically over the years since Florence moved from France to the UAE. “I focused on things I could not find in the Middle East, more vintage, retro, even secondhand.” What makes her blog different? “The fact that it is not blingy and its not all about the next new shiny thing,” laughs Florence. “I may not know about the latest lip gloss,” she chuckles, “I can definitely tell you where to go to find vintage stuff.”
LAURA FARRANT BUY NOW BLOG LATER
THE NO-FUSS, NO-NONSENSE, LAURA FARRANT RESONATES HER BLOG’S IDEALS. SHE SAYS HER STYLE IS CASUAL AND COMFORTABLE. Born in Holland and now a resident of the UAE, she believes style is something that cannot be forced or artificial. “I love what I do. I do have a day time job and am just hoping someone comes along and asks me to do this full time,” she smiles. Laura spends most of her time offering her readers fascinating insights into the city of her residence. She has an affinity with shopping in London. “I like high street, that’s the best place I love to go shopping.” Speaking of her personal style she says, “I have an addiction to Celine, I love their bags. I also love Valentino.”
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IMAAN ALI THE HIJABLOG
A BLOGGER WHO MOST STANDS OUT FOR HER UNIQUENESS, IS IMAAN . NOT ONLY IS SHE A PROUD HIJABWEARER, SHE CARRIES HER STYLE BROADLY ON HER SHOULDERS. Based in the US and shuttling to Cairo as a student, Imaan says that she found herself getting a lot of positive comments about her hijab. “It was not something I was conscious of till I moved out of the region. People would come up to me and ask me where I’ve bought my scarves from or where my skirts are from. They asked me more details about my style.” Putting her thoughts online quickly generated a lot of positive feedback from friends and even strangers. “I am glad that my hijab has come to represent so many proud women like me,” she says.
NAJLA KADDOUR NAJLAKADDOUR
FROM THE LATEST LOOKS TO THE PERFECT MASCARA, NAJLA KADDOUR HAS ALL THE INFORMATION AT HER FINGERTIPS. Besides being a blogger, Najla is a celebrity makeup artist from Dubai. “I’m just so happy to share my knowledge and insight in the world of makeup and style,” she says. Her unique sense of passion and a proven record of success have made Najla the premier make-up artist for the region’s most prominent personalities which include Alanoud Badr, Diala Makki, Nadya Hasan, Ascia and Tala Samman among others. Handpicked by E! News to be the exclusive make-up artist for their visit to Dubai, Najla has also worked alongside international superstar Jennifer Lopez and her team. “The experience was truly amazing and unforgettable,” she beams.
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Blog Name: Hint of Beautiful Name of Blogger: Florence Roldes Website: http://www.hintofbeautiful.com Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hint-Of-Beautiful/ Twitter:https://twitter.com/HintOfBeautiful FLORENCE WEARS Cardigan: Spittifield Market, in London Bag: Vintage bag Sunglasses: Miu Miu
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Blog Name: Buy Now Blog Later Name of Blogger: Laura Farrant Website: http://www.buynowbloglater.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/buynowbloglater Instagram: http://instagram.com/buynowbloglater Twitter: https://twitter.com/buynowbloglater LAURA WEARS Skirt: Reiss Blouse: Top Shop Accessories: A very old leather jacket
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Blog Name: The Hijablog Name of Blogger: Imaan Ali Website:http://thehijablog.werun.com Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/TheHijablog Instagram:http://instagram.com/thehijablog/ Twitter:https://twitter.com/TheHijablog IMAAN WEARS Skirt: Asus Clutch is from an Egyptian designer
Blog Name: NajlaKaddour Name of Blogger: NajlaKaddour Website: http://najlakaddour.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ NajlaMakeUpArtist Instagram: http://web.stagram.com/n/najlakaddour Twitter:https://twitter.com/najlakaddour NAJLA WEARS Rings from Lya Lya part of her new collection Necklace: Valleydez, a boutique in Dubai
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Tri Quadri Colourblock tote, QR2,148, Longchamp, www.longchamp.com
BAG OF TRICKS
SPRING 2014 HAS UNLEASHED THE ONSLAUGHT OF ECCENTRIC AND QUIRKY WHEN IT COMES TO BAGS. STASH AWAY YOUR CLASSIC DOCTORS AND BOWLINGS, AND EMBRACE THE NEW-AGE VERSIONS IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES.
D-Cube Bag, QR5,189, Tod’s, Villaggio Mall.
Embellished Bag in Lizard, Matthew Williamson, The Gate.
Printed bag, QR2,021, Kenzo, Porto Arabia.
Quincy Bag in Nude Alligator, Victoria Beckham, Net A Porter.
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Raffia Woven Bag, QR1,457, M Missoni, The Gate.
Macy Clutch, QR6,882, Salvatore Ferragamo, Porto Arabia.
Petal Embossed Clutch in Degrade Leather, QR4,812, Burberry, Villaggio Mall.
Saffiano Face-Printed Cross Body Bag illustrated by Jeanne Deallante, QR10,975, Prada, Villaggio Mall.
Belle De Nuit Feather Shoulder Bag, QR94,450, Louis Vuitton, Villaggio Mall.
Syd Hawaii Backpack, Christian Louboutin, Villaggio Mall.
Siddharta Cotton Book Clutch, QR6,266, Olympia Le-Tan, Net A Porter.
Ornament Clutch, Bottega Veneta, Villaggio Mall.
Soft Clutch, QR2,605, Maison Du Posh, Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall.
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MEDITERRANEAN
SPLASH SPANISH BRAND CUPLÉ MAKES AN ARABIAN FORAY
THE SUN-KISSED LAIDBACK LIFE OF THE SPANISH MEDITERRANEAN IS THE STORY OF THE CUPLÉ WOMAN THIS SUMMER. SPANISH SUPERMODEL BARBARA GARCIA FRONTS THE CAMPAIGN, BRINGING TO LIFE THE MAGICAL WARM LIGHT OF THE MEDITERRANEAN VILLAGES THAT INSPIRED PAINTERS, POETS AND ARTISTS, AND NOW, THE NEW CUPLÉ COLLECTION.
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Anum of Desert Mannequin styles a black vest jacket from CuplĂŠ.
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The Carla styles an outfit in the fitting room of the Cuplé boutique. Shoes and hanging outfits by Cuplé.
campaign, shot in Tabarca, a charming small island off Alicante’s coast, is also part of the brand’s 30th anniversary celebration. The label recently arrived in Qatar and with the help of local fashion bloggers, paints a picture of style straight from the seaside of Spain to the desert of Arabia. “We chose Doha as our first Middle Eastern outpost because we believe strongly in the market. The first three months since the store opened have been extremely encouraging,” Pastor explains. At the collection launch hosted by Teresa Sánchez Pastor, the lead designer of the label and also daughter of the founder of the brand, fashion bloggers including Carla Mallari of Nomad, Anum Bashir of Desert Mannequin and Karen Nicolet of Clumsy Chic took to styling their outfits with pieces from the collection. “The coastal life influence of the brand makes it a great place to shop for the season’s essentials,” blogger Clumsy Chic remarks. Cuplé started out as a leather goods brand, heralding the leather supply business with an impressive track record dating from 1952. It is an area that is of pride and joy to the family, “All our leather products are still hand-finished in Spain,” Pastor says. In recent years, the label began offering a ready-to-wear collection inspired by global trends and refined with a Spanish touch. “We are always travelling and keeping our eyes open for new trends, be it from catwalks or street styles, and we translate that into our clothing collection,” she explains. The diversification has been proved a success, with the label now present not only in Spain but Austria, Azerbaijan, Belgium, Chile, France, Hungary, Netherlands and now Qatar. For Summer 2014, the collection draws on the colour palette of the towns and beaches along the Mediterranean coastline and is finished with innovative materials and fine detailing. “Shoes and bags are complemented by a wide range of clothing that suits all tastes and a collection of accessories that combines Cuplé sophistication with summer ethnic touches. As always, the brand seeks to find the perfect balance between practicality and sophistication adapting our models to the latest trends and the different needs of consumers,” Pastor says. Cuplé is located at Landmark Mall.
COOL HUNTER BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
TO THE MOST AVID OF ONLINE SHOPPERS, WHICH MAKES UP PRETTY MUCH MOST OF US LIVING IN QATAR, FINDING BRAND NEW GEMS AND DISCOVERING NOUVEAU DESIGNERS ARE ALWAYS BIG HIGHLIGHTS. A spanking new site based in London, Avenue 32 serves as a cool hunter seeking out emerging designers that might not be flying on the radar of bigger online retailers yet, giving you the first dibs on fashion’s next big thing. Taking their service to the next level, Avenue 32 also offers personalised services including style advice, personal shopping experiences, alteration and bespoke monogramming of products, giving it an edge over other online boutiques. Avenue 32 is all about curation and discovery. Our unique selling point is that we are a true online boutique featuring designers that we really believe in. We wanted to bring back an element of discovery to online shopping so we scout for new and exciting talent to showcase to our customers,” says Roberta Benteler, Founder of Avenue 32. Feels like all you need to do is just kick your shoes off and wait for your precious shopping to arrive? That is exactly what Avenue 32 wants to achieve, “We want our customers to feel like we have gone out and done all the work for them.” Benteler shares some of the emerging designers that we should be keeping our eyes on this season.
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01 REJINA PYO
Rejina PYO is an award-winning Korean-born designer based in London. She is currently working on the second season of her eponymous label and previously worked for Roksanda Ilincic as her first assistant immediately after graduating from her MA Fashion at Central Saint Martin’s. We love Rejina’s use of fabric and colour – she is often inspired by architecture and art – and her pieces are feminine but strong.
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KATIE ERMILIO
As the granddaughter of Grace Kelly’s personal clothier, there is a sense of history in Katie Ermilio’s clothes. From the iconic “Green Jacket” her grandfather designed for The Masters Tournament at Augusta, to the Eisenhower Jacket he created for World War II, Katie’s legacy has inspired not only her love of fashion, but also the garments she creates. Designing clothes from the time she was 12, Katie continues to draw on the heritage that shapes her work. At 28, a life-long education in tailoring acquired in her father’s custom clothing shop acquainted Katie with the principles of construction and fundamentals of design. Infusing each distinctly feminine piece with sharp tailoring and soft drape, her clothes embody the modern interpretation of timeless dress. The Spring collection was inspired by her hand-drawn Blue Rose Print and seeks to capture the romantic nature of English rose gardens within it.
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TANYA TAYLOR
New York-based designer, Tanya Taylor, was born in Toronto. Cultural experiences remain a constant throughout Taylor’s life as she graduated from McGill University with a major in Finance followed by a degree in Fashion Design at Parsons. In 2011, after years of designing for Elizabeth and James, the Tanya Taylor brand was founded with the mission to add unexpected femininity to classic American sportswear and everything is produced in Manhattan. The eponymous collection infuses classic sophistication with an artful femininity.
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LUCAS NASCIMENTO
London College of Fashion-trained Lucas Nascimento has been gently making waves on the London Fashion Week circuit for the past three seasons. He plays with the geometric and textural aspects of knitwear; his designs come in clean structural forms with a futuristic edge. His signature style focuses on chic cocoon-shaped dresses and separates. Minimalist, paired back tailoring is what Nascimento does best and it really came through on raw edged white dresses in superfine Japanese plongé leather with a subtly sexy scoop on the back; a white tailored double-crepe skirt and a great white cropped jacket, perfect as summer cover up.
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PAUL ANDREW
Paul Andrew, the British-born, New York-based footwear and accessory designer, debuted Paul Andrew his eponymous line of luxury women’s shoes in Spring 2013. The collection is on course to firmly establish him as a fresh, innovative and creative force within the fashion industry. Long familiar with the rigor and discipline required to design for the world’s most discerning and fashionable consumers, Paul Andrew has cultivated his craft alongside iconic designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez and Alexander McQueen. With his wealth of experience and peerless manufacturing resources, Andrew proposes a style and sensibility for his namesake collection that is uniquely his own: an aesthetic that is sensual and refined without severity, use of the finest materials and craftsmanship, ingenuity to maximize comfort and performance and a singular, passionate approach to the modern shoe silhouette.
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NATHALIE TRAD
Born in Beirut and raised in Dubai, Nathalie Trad developed a strong penchant for asymmetric designs – which today forms the basis of her eponymous line – whilst earning a BA from Paris’ ESMOD International. It was then, in 2007, that she discovered her personal design ethos: to take classic shapes – ubiquitous in our natural environment – and radically transform them, deconstructing and redefining the boundaries of fashion aesthetics. In 2008, Trad relocated to New York to further pursue this vision where she obtained a BBA in Design and Management from Parsons The New School for Design and worked under the mentorship of an industry-leading accessories designer at Proenza Schouler. Her collections are punctuated by chiselled contours, geometric structures and sharp contrasts in colour, texture and pattern.
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07 J JS LEE
J. JS Lee is by Jackie JS Lee who was born in Seoul and came to London to take the Post Graduate Pattern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007. After her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Central Saint Martin for her MA degree. Her MA Graduation Collection in 2010 received much positive press and buyer attention, and was rewarded with the revered Harrods Award; with her collection being housed in the window of the Knightsbridge department store. In March, she launched her eponymous label, J JS LEE featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces in tailoring. Her vision for creating a label which defines a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way has been given a platform to launch itself.
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CHARLIE BREAR
Charlie Brear had been a stylist for 10 years when she founded The Vintage Wedding Dress Company in 2005. The company was re-branded as Charlie Brear this year; in time for the launch of her first mainline fashion ready-to-wear collection. Among the highlights are full skirts in damask and brocade, a reversible kimono, a clever three-in-one look consisting of a leather waistcoat, cropped jacket and shearling vest, a white lace boiler suit and a navy coated-lace pleated skirt. Brear has been shortlisted for SS14 at London Fashion Week as “one to watch” by WWD’s Julia Neel: “The clothes have clear commercial appeal, but that doesn’t undermine the vision and confidence that comes through in a tightly balanced palette of denim blue, buttercup, mink, shell pink and inky navy”.
Jeanne Lanvin, the legend herself.
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HOUSE THAT JEANNE BUILT BY ALEXANDRA KOHUT-COLE PHOTOS COURTESY PATRIMOINE LANVIN
THE OLDEST COUTURE HOUSE IN THE WORLD, LANVIN, IS CELEBRATING ITS 125TH YEAR AND WE DISCOVER THE MYSTERY OF THE FAMOUSLY PUBLICITY-AVERSE JEANNE LANVIN AS HER PRIVATE OFFICE IS OPENED IN HONOUR OF ITS ANNIVERSARY.
An archive photograph of the office
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She
was a modern businesswoman who pretty much created the luxury lifestyle concept. Jeanne Lanvin, one of the first to design a line for children’s wear in 1908, topped this with one for young girls, then women, then men, and was “the first couturier to start home décor” explains house historian Laure Harivel. Her private office, at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, on the corner of the luxury Rue Faubourg St Honore in Paris, still feels like a cocoon of creative spirit enclosed behind secure double-locked security doors. It was at this address that, in 1889, Jeanne Lanvin opened a very small hat shop that became a very big success. At the age of 30, in 1897, she had a daughter, Marguerite – meaning daisy in French – and from that moment Marguerite became Jeanne Lanvin’s raison d’etre and the inspiration behind everything she would achieve creatively. The muse Marguerite, dressed in perfect ‘mini-me’ outfits, attracted the hat shop customers’ eyes – and they wanted the same for their own daughters. “These were very new dresses for the time in jersey and wool - very modern, easy to wear garments” explains Harivel. Lanvin’s children’s line was launched in 1908. It became such a rip roaring success that only one year after that she founded her women’s couture; followed closely by bridal, in 1911, and Lanvin fur in 1913. The office is lined with an extensive library of Lavin’s research books on subjects like botany, fashion, theatre and costume.
Photograph of Jeanne and Marguerite, that inspired the logo first drawn by Paul Iribe, taken in 1907.
Inspecting the final touches on a dress
There is an ambience of calm that is comfortable rather than austere. A black and white photograph from the 1930s sits on her desk. In it, she is completing fittings on two models and, almost uncannily, everything in the room in the image is exactly the same as it is today. The space is filled with the fruits of her travel. Lanvin sourced the unusual – whatever was different from that available in the France of the early 20th Century. Whether saris from India, Japanese skirts, fabrics from Egypt – all were translated into a series of comprehensive swatch books containing cards, sketches, fabrics, or paintings from Italy, London, Spain. By 1920, the Lanvin home décor division was realised with the purchase of its own building at 15 Faubourg. Lanvin’s partner in decoration was the celebrated French designer Armand-Albert Rateau. As Harivel elaborates “furniture, tables, chairs - all her designs” and I discover that the chair I am sitting on even has tiny daisies – or ‘marguerites’ carved into its wood. At the same address in 1923, Lanvin Sport was established. The same year witnessed the opening of the Lanvin dyeing factory in Nanterre near Paris - so meticulous was she that she insisted on re-creating the exact blue - the one we know as Lanvin blue today - that she had so adored in Fra Angelico frescoes on her travels in Italy. The codes of the house of 1925 were two-fold. A day dress would be pure, graphic without volume or embroidery - easy to wear. But by night, the “robes de style” were voluminous,
Embroidered botanical sketches feature largely in her idea books. Theatre Daunou
Illustrations of hats, 1923. Theatre Daunou ,designed by Lanvin and Rateau.
Lavish embroidery for use in dresses
dramatically embroidered, bejewelled (a mix of real and paste), taffeta and silk creations with a mix of sheer to be worn for cocktails or the theatre. “Like Elbaz today”, notes Harivel of the dress currently displayed in the office. Created for an exhibition in 1925 and later for the actress and good friend of Lanvin, Jane Renouardt in Paris, the garment, fragile now - hangs perilously from its pale pink grosgrain ribbon shoulder straps – is so heavy it can only be displayed for two or three weeks at a time. anvin loved the Art Deco style and she and Rateau together designed her apartment. The three remaining rooms - very graphic, black and white bathroom and boudoir with the bedroom decked out in Lanvin blue – have been housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris since 1985. The duo also designed the interior of the Theatre Dannou – the only theatre in Paris still blue and gold - instead of the traditional red and gold. The LanvinRateau creative collaboration lasted for five years until 1925. At this point Lanvin promptly opened a menswear department and two years later released her second and signature perfume Arpege, a gift for her daughter’s 30th birthday, encased in a black ball created by Rateau. In 1930, she decided to re-do her entire office with the famed decorator Eugene Prince. A pivotal point of the re-design included a very modern-for-its-day threeway mirror that could be angled and moved on a trestle. This innovation enabled Lanvin to view a dress from all angles while sitting in her chair.
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A ‘robe de style’.
A wedding gown from 1923.
A 1929 dress designed for Jane Renouardt
The first Lanvin perfume, My Sin, 1925.
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An elaborate evening dress on display. It is so heavy that it can only be displayed for short periods of time.
Cocoon shaped monochrome, 1924.
Not one to sit around, she then brought out a, now defunct, cosmetics line creating powder, lipsticks and tanning oil. In fact she worked in 3D – draping fabric on the model – because she never sketched. “She needed all the inspiration from the books, fabrics, flowers so that she could explain to her employees exactly what she wanted…an embroidery, a sketch” says Harivel. “She took inspiration from ethnic fabrics, jewels, lacquer, shells, velvet…always something new regarding colour, texture, embroidery”. Creative director of Lanvin since 2002, Alber Elbaz, also begins by draping the fabric in tribute to Lanvin, as Harivel says, “it helps to keep the DNA of the brand…he sketches to have something in his mind but afterwards he prefers to create with the fabric on the model”. The Lanvin logo, of which Elbaz has added an anniversary twist, represents the love a mother has for her daughter. Reproduced by the illustrator Paul Iribe in 1923 from a photograph taken in 1907 of Lanvin and her daughter hand in hand on their way to a ball. Lanvin then created dolls holding the same poses as in the illustration, attired in gold lamé (one of her favourite fabrics) to dress the boutique window. Without a doubt, Jeanne Lanvin lived her life way ahead of her time. The varying styles of her work were modern for their day. A sequin detail in a scrapbook mix of clashing blue fuchsia could have been a forerunner to this season’s loudly clashing colours. The monochrome, the lamé, a black and fuchsia combo - and each dress bestowed with a name. A coat with huge fur collar and cuffs could have sauntered straight off last week’s Parisian catwalks. The mid-20s bridal gowns are slim line, elongated, exceptionally modern and partnered with point-toed pumps. Jeanne Lanvin was prolific. She presented four collections per year – two main and two pre-collection or ‘entre saison’. Yet, each collection consisted of a whopping 250 looks.
Dolls crafted from Iribe’s illustration for window display
She was astute – her look books preceded any boutique opening. They were sent to prospective clients in a hitherto ‘unconquered’ country who could effectively mail order the clothes. Only when she had enough clients in the respective country would she open a boutique. ublicity averse and modest, Lanvin let her clothes to do the talking. The only advertising she permitted was for the theatre as she dressed many actresses – such as her good friend the actress Jeanne Renouardt - for performances and publicity tours in South America. Each sketch is named by play and actress but sadly not by illustrator “as they were so numerous”. Lanvin could be described as brisk in terms of her success. Very quick, very new, modern, bang bang bang one after the other did she hammer out the production lines. And the whole shebang was housed at one address – that’s 1200 members of staff – for fashion, hats, bridal, theatre, menswear, home interiors, perfume, embroidery, “nowadays we are 200!” in three buildings. Was she a control freak? She certainly had control and wanted all the employees from each discipline to work under one roof. She outsourced nothing - all was in-house. Yet, the superlative legacy is that, as Harivel puts it, “We have all the atmosphere of those days, all the decorations from the 1930s paintings, some dresses, photos… we still have the archives of 1925 and all those embroideries - because she wanted her whole workshop at Rue de Faubourg. We had the chance to preserve and conserve everything”. Jeanne Lanvin always maintained that if it hadn’t been for her daughter she would have remained a milliner, “she never stopped working until her death - she was in this office and she wanted really to create every day.” And until her death in 1946 - she still designed hats.
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WEAVING A MAGIC SPELL
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BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
f you thought an abaya was merely a simple black garment, think again. Hessa Al Obaidli is an Emirati designer who is doing just that, compelling her followers to rethink the idea of the abaya as she weaves a story in fashion. At first the designer started small, and launched her couture line in 2011 taking small orders from relatives and close friends. She
soon decided to make the leap into the fashion world, and expand her business. Hessa started the first online e-boutique for abayas. Though the brand receives its name from its designer, Hessa also means ‘luck’ and ‘destiny’ in Arabic which perhaps plays a part in her success. Her inspiration is drawn from her Emirati and Islamic heritage, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design.
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I think the Arab and Middle Eastern fashion designers have a lot to bring to the worldwide Fashion Industry. Many foreign designers have started incorporating Abayas and Kaftan into their collections.
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Fashion design involves much more than the frivolous feedback it often receives. What are some of the challenges you have faced when trying to overcome stereotypes in different cultures? Designing an abaya can be very challenging. Indeed, the abaya is a part of our culture and so it is linked to our history and traditions. The abaya is the main piece for every Arabic lady and it should represent her at her best. Our mission at Hesseh is to be always the ultimate synonym of elegance, luxury and fantasy. Hesseh is a timeless style which combines excellence and perfection. My idea of an abaya is not for a mass market, but more of a timepiece that can accompany you through the years. When designing an abaya, I feel overjoyed. One cannot imagine the multiple combinations possible. It is like composing a song. You have the lyrics, the melody and everything in between. In the abaya, you can change the cut, the fabrics, the details and the embroidery with every new piece. I think the Arab and Middle Eastern fashion designers have a lot to bring to the global fashion industry. Many foreign designers have started incorporating abayas and kaftan into their collections. However, I would love to see unique style for each designer. I personally think you are doing great when people recognise your abaya just by looking at its cut, design or colour code.
love reading fairy-tales and if you have a closer look at all my collections it is always based on a concept of storytelling related to an imaginary location with special characters. Before I start designing, I try to feel and listen to my environment; my colleagues, family, and friends. What are their main concerns in their social, work or personal life? Through my activities, I like to travel, visit museums, read books and watch movies. Then, I work on a theme which will include a story and different characters. I define from there a palette of colours, texture, fabrics etc. Can you tell us some of the places you wish to showcase your collection and what is the general profile of some of your clients? We are looking to showcase our collection with specific elitist dealers such as Harrods, Le Printemps Haussman and some other international well-known brands. Our clients are mainly from royal families and very important families across the Middle East.
My idea of an Abaya is not a mass market reality, but more of a timepiece that can accompany you through the years.
Please give us a few details on what your current collection is about? In my latest collection “Emancipation” I have explored how a Princess who is in search of true freedom with noble values, escapes from the established society with its rules and regulations. She refuses to stick and live in a wealthy and secure environment and preferred to escape in order to build her own. She is the modern heroine who wants to discover the world and learn by her experiences and not basing her thoughts on clichés. I am very cautious about the quality of my work. From the textures, the fabrics, the hand-made work to the packaging, everything is Haute Couture. Every detail counts.
What is your inspiration and what do you believe feeds your creativity? It may sound strange, but I find my inspiration through books. I
Do you have any regrets or feel any limitations when it comes to your work? I am lucky in a sense that I had the opportunity and chance to start my collection in Venice, Italy. However, I think that venturing into the field as soon as possible even though you have minimum funds will always help as you can build gradually. We live in a world where investors play a major role. But we now have technology and free channels to commercialise and develop our brands. I started developing my business through my mobile phone which brought Blackberry to enlist me as the Brand Ambassador for Blackberry Middle East. Designing an abaya is really challenging, you need to make sure you are not overdoing it and at the same time be trendy. I have taken the best out of my culture: simplicity and discretion of elements. I definitely think that if you are talented and passionate about fashion, there is always a way to develop creativity and inherent skills through your work. My abayas are couture, and they’re meant for special occasions, not necessarily every day wear.
Luca Caprai photographed by Maria Teresa Furnari
Cruciani Presentation in Milan
CRUICIANI:
FOUR-LEAF CLOVER FOR LUCK BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
ARMED WITH AN UNSHAKABLE VISION AND NERVES OF STEEL, THE THEN 25-YEAR-OLD LUCA CAPRAI REVOLUTIONISED HIS FAMILY’S BOOMING TEXTILE BUSINESS INTO THE COMMERCIAL CLOTHING LINE THAT IT IS TODAY. CRUCIANI HAS MADE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES COUNTING SUPERSTARS INCLUDING BEYONCE AS FANS, BUT ONE THING THAT HAS REMAINED TRUE IS LUCA’S PROMISE TO PRESERVE THE FAMILY VALUES OF TRUE ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP.
Wedding Dress made of Arnaldo Caprai Lace
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Cruciani SS2014 by Nima Benati
Inspired by his father Arnaldo, a respected figure in the linen and home textiles industry, Luca founded Cruciani in 1992 with a focus on high quality cashmere knits. Investing in modern and advanced weaving technologies, Cruciani became a forerunner in innovative and ultra-thin knitwear gaining the brand traction in the global market. The success led to the expansion of the label’s collections which have come to include tailored garments, luxury leather goods, accessories and shoes. However, the standout star is the lace jewellery line, a simple lace bracelet featuring the four-leaf clover that has become a cult adornment. The bracelets are made of macramé needlework by one of the family’s companies and over a million bracelets have been sold worldwide. With the arrival of Cruciani to Qatar this month at Blue Salon, Glam met the highlydriven Luca for his take on the company’s legacy. Obviously the bracelets have become something of a phenomenon. On a deeper level to you, what is the important symbolism behind the bracelets for your brand, and for yourself ? Cruciani C bracelets are symbolic in how contemporary style and culture are brought together with the traditional skill of lace making. Each bracelet is a nod to tradition and Italian heritage. While on a personal level, the four-leaf clover bracelet is a genuine lucky symbol for me and my family. The clover was the
The Daily Struzzo Bag in Beige Ostrich
Knitwear from the SS14 collection
Cruciani SS2014 by Nima Benati
Museum Collection of Arnaldo Caprai
The making of Cruciani C bracelets
The Crocodile bags are designed with the Middle East market in mind
first bracelet I made and ever since, each bracelet has been a symbol of luck, hope and love in one way or another, whether it’s the clover, ‘The Evil Eye Amulet’ or the ‘Hand of Fatima’. Developing a collection that revolves around knit and cashmere, in a brand new way, must have been a challenging task. What was the secret behind your success? We ensure that Cruciani pieces are casual but always elegant. Our forms are free-flowing and light and created with the utmost attention to detail. We like to say that every Cruciani garment has a feeling of art de vivre and a cosmopolitan attitude. Cruciani rules are creatively décontracté which frees the pieces from the sense of old-fashioned knitwear. What is the essence of Cruciani? The essence of Cruciani is true, high class luxury, we do not compromise on quality under any circumstance. Everything is made by traditional craftsman in Italy with the best materials. We also want our clients to feel a local connection to the brand no matter where they are in the world from Japan to the USA to Qatar. We have an Italian soul but we want to be seen as Chinese in China, Brazilian in Brazil and Arabian in Arabia. We are both a large international corporation and a small family local business. Tell us more about the importance of the value of Made in Italy for Cruciani. I believe that a Cruciani product can only be made entirely in
I believe that a Cruciani product can only be made entirely in Italy to represent the best of traditional heritage and the state of an art in continual evolution. Italy to represent the best of traditional heritage and the state of an art in continual evolution. These two requisites cannot be met outside Italy. We inscribe ‘Made in Casa’ on Cruciani pieces which means that not only are we made in Italy but it is made in my family factory. Casa means home and it’s an amusing way to convey to our clients that the Cruciani business and the family are one and we are traditional Italian craftsmen. There is a strong ethical value within the brand and the sourcing of cashmere for the collections. Why is that important to you? Every single Cruciani product conveys a series of values. Cruciani operates a policy of genuine respect for its employees, suppliers and the environment. As every product is made with the best yarns, sourced from all over the world, we make sure our suppliers comply with international standards. Our exclusive Cruciani yarn called the “Diamante Rosso, is certified by the world-leading classification. We make sure there is little waste and that no aggressive or harmful dyes are used on our yarns. Cruciani prides itself on these quality controls that guarantee
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Cruciani SS2014 by Nima Benati
the exclusive care taken in creating every Cruciani piece. In recent years, there has been a lot of talk about the dearth of new fashion inspirations from Italy, what do you think can be done to encourage more dynamic fashion growth in Italy? I think that Italian businesses need to keep to what we are traditionally good at, while appealing to a younger generation and today’s popular fashion culture at the same time. This is exactly what we have done with Cruciani C bracelets. They are made of traditional Italian lacework by Italian artisans in Italy but they are affordable, they are popular luxury items. Having operated in Dubai for a while now, how do you think the luxury market in the Middle East has responded to Cruciani? We have seen wonderful success throughout the Middle East. Clients here are attracted to pure quality and luxury. They are detail-oriented and they appreciate when pieces are made exclusively for them or with them in mind. This is something that Cruciani will continue to do for our clients here whether it be the new Crocodile Bags made especially for the Middle East or a Cruciani C bracelet made in collaboration with a regional designer like Nadine Kanso as we did last Fall. How has the Middle East inspired you in new creations for Cruciani? The Middle East continues to inspire me every day. I love the
Cruciani C Dubai skyline bracelet
region, and all the cultures and the tastes of the people here. They understand and appreciate the Cruciani brand in its promise of luxury and quality. We created the crocodile skin bags with the Middle East clientele in mind. They are made of absolutely top-quality crocodile skin and the metal details are made of brass plated in 2.5 miligrams of real gold. They have been produced in an extremely unique range of vibrant colours. Our Middle Eastern clients have been asking for colour and we gave it to them! We have also created multiple Cruciani C bracelets for the region including the collaboration with regional Arabic jewellery designer Nadine Kanso and the 18k gold beaded Hand of Fatima bracelet.
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BE IN CONTROL AMBER VALETTA TALKS SUSTAINABILITY LIFESTYLE EDITED BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
IN AN INDUSTRY WHERE SUSTAINABILITY AND ETHICAL PRACTICES OFTEN GET SWEPT UNDER THE CARPET, SWEDISH GIANT RETAILER H&M HAS MADE A LOUD AND CLEAR STAND IN ITS EFFORTS TO PROMOTE A CONSCIOUS APPROACH TOWARDS GARMENT MANUFACTURING.
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Glamour and bohemia are at the heart of Conscious Exclusive at H&M for Spring 2014. Flamenco and the toreador are key inspirations, both for the ruffles on the gowns and the sharp tailoring. There is a bohemian spirit throughout the collection, with rich embellishment and intricate detailing.
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The
launch of the Conscious Exclusive collections has made shoppers more aware of what they are buying, and also given them an opportunity to learn about the process that goes into the recycling and reuse of materials. The Conscious Exclusive Spring 2014 collection features new materials; 100% organic mulberry silk and organic leather, in addition to their existing repertoire of organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, hemp, and recycled plastic beads. To help strengthen their cause, the Spring 2014 collection was designed with input from EVER Manifesto, a sustainable fashion and design think tank, and features actress Amber Valetta as the face of their campaign. The actress, who is an avid supporter of a sustainable lifestyle, talks to us about the importance of making conscious efforts and her collaboration with H&M. How can you think about sustainability in your daily life? It all starts at home, in my opinion. I have solar panels on my house and am generally very mindful of our energy use, switching off lights and computers when not in use. And we’re also careful about how much water we use. I have a compost area in my garden, and my car is electric. I choose carefully where I do my grocery shopping and always make sure to pick the organic option. I do bring cloth bags to the store and try not to waste any food. For business I just launched my own webshop “Master and Muse” hosting brands that are socially and environmentally sustainable while still offering great fashion.
What are your wardrobe musts? My most important and treasured pieces are a number of great jackets and boots. Boots can really make an outfit and if you care for them they can last a long time. A jacket can make anything look smart – also a key item. How can you make your clothes last longer? How you wash your clothes is really important. Use detergents that are natural, as they come out with the water and we want to minimize chemicals. Lower the temperature and hang clothes outside, or inside if you live in a cold country, and avoid tumble-drying if you can. And be mindful about where you dry-clean your clothes. Choose a greener option if available. It’s so great that H&M has launched its new wash care label “clevercare.info” so consumers can learn how to wash more responsibly.
Be aware of where you shop. Is the brand conscious? Do they have a sustainability platform?
Do you have any advice to fashion consumers on how to act responsibly? Be aware of where you shop. Is the brand conscious? Do they have a sustainability platform? Does the product have longevity, design and quality wise? Reuse clothing. Change the hem of a skirt or dress to alter it. Don’t dry-clean clothes too often – many garments that are dry-clean only on the care label can be hand washed. Recycle clothes. All textiles can be used, for insulation, rags, new fabrics or second-hand, like with H&M’s garment collecting initiative. Ask questions and push brands to be more sustainable. We the consumers, are the ones in control. What is sustainable style to you? Sustainable style can be a great design, creative enough to be timeless and fantastic every time you wear it. Or simply perfect in fit, form and function. It could be a vintage find that gets a second, third or fourth life. Or just great fashion made responsibly.
What would you wear for a gala night? I always try to wear something with an added sustainability value. Either a vintage piece – that way I’m also sure I’ll be wearing a unique dress, plus the fact that old clothes are often so beautifully made or an outfit from a responsible brand. There are great designs out there that are made sustainably by companies that take great care to consider both people and the planet.
What is your favourite piece from the H&M Conscious collections? I have two favorites from H&M Conscious Exclusive. One is the kimono style – a little 70s-inspired, wide-sleeved dress made of a lurex paisley-patterned Tencel and silk mix. It’s fun and sexy, perfect for a disco. The other is a white organic cotton blend lace dress in a beautiful simple cut with long sleeves. How does it feel to be the face of H&M Conscious and Conscious Exclusive for Spring 2014? I am very excited and honored to be the face of H&M Conscious this spring. The fashion is great, and it’s amazing to collaborate with a company that matches my values the way H&M does. It’s a surprise and privilege to learn about H&M’s sustainability work – not only with the collection but also internally in how they are leading the way for sustainability in fashion. It’s super-cool that a company offering cool and contemporary fashion is also at the forefront when it comes to sustainability. If your clothes are made better, you feel better!
BACK FROM SHOPPING Orange Jacket: Mango Suit Top : Mango Jeans: Salsa Brooch: Massimo Dutti Sandals: D Squared2
I believe that fashion and style play-up one’s personality and bring it to the fore.
IN THE DETAILS
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BY SONALI RAMAN
business development executive currently working in the architecture and engineering industry, a stylishly confident woman who “can’t wait to see what the drama is all about turning thirty”, a visual communications graduate and on a regular day “ a wife to a lovingly complex man”; Lejla Niksic Delic shows us how to do smart chic without busting the bank. I simply like dressing up! I like to feel and look good yet be comfortable. I developed a love for fashion and style at a very early age. I grew up as an only child for the first 13 years of my life and my mother was my best friend. I would role-play with her as a doctor, mother, teacher, waiter, and saleswoman and of course I needed different outfits for each of them! My mom says that I particularly like to accessorize my summer linen overalls with a winter woolen hat, orange pullover and yellow rubber boots. Two things have influenced my personal style the most: period films and my surrounding environment. Costumes in period
dramas are to just die for. The detailing and craftsmanship especially are important to me, considering how limited their resources were at those times. Doha’s landscape is quite muted and monotone and so I developed quite an interesting sense of colour to contrast that. I would describe my ever-changing personal style as season and occasion appropriate, if I had to. Over the last few years, a change in industry at work, a new hair colour and a healthier weight gain, apart from travelling to new places, have had an impact on the way I dress. The use of applique, sequins and special detailing appeal to me in unusual clothes. For me a black jacket is not just a black jacket, I look closely at the lining, stitching, pockets and other details first. The same with shoes- I certainly cannot have just one pair of black shoes! Good shoes and accessories, especially sunglasses are my weakness. Good quality shoes that are comfortable can make you “glide’ through the day and sunglasses are essential in Doha.
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CLOSET GALORE Top : Promod Vest: Massimo Dutti Jeans: Salsa Nude Shoes: Marks & Spencers Cuff: Mango Ring: Hand-made from Iran NIGHT OUT Cream Jacket: Reiss Top: Gia London Leggings: H&M Gold Cuff: Mango Black Ring: Accessorize Shoes: Bershka
This stunningly soft alligator backpack from Tod’s makes for the perfect travelling companion featuring the characteristic Double Stripe with zip fastening and metal slides. It also has special compartments for documents, and tablets or laptops.
WHERE THE BIG BOYS COME OUT TO PLAY
Bradley Cooper, who was Oscar nominated for his role in American Hustle wore a Chopard L.U.C 1937 classic timepiece crafted in stainless steel, featuring a white dial and black alligator strap, to the Oscar ceremony.
Matthew McConaughey picked up an Oscar for his leading role in Dallas Buyer’s Club wearing a Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau timepiece crafted in 18k white gold, a white dial and black leather strap.
Lanvin Made-To-Measure is a new alternative combining bespoke tailoring suit service with the ease of ready-to-wear. The service adapts existing suit designs according to clients measurements up to fifty or so variable elements and final alterations are done by hand to ensure the perfect fit. Drop by a Lanvin boutique for a consultation.
The Clinique Men’s Skin Care Diagnostic tool, available on the IOS platform, is a convenient app to help you identify personal skincare needs and match it with the right products. We know you boys tend to shop and run so this is perfect for you to discover grooming needs from the comfort of home.
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GLAM MEETS BESPOKE TAILORS THOM SWEENEY HAS LANDED AT MR PORTER WITH A DEBUT READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION THAT BRINGS TOGETHER ALL THEIR SIGNATURE STYLES; TAILORING, CONSTRUCTION, QUALITY AND STYLING. THE DESIGN DUO THOM WHIDDETT AND LUKE SWEENEY GIVES US THE 101. DESIGN PHILOSOPHY Our design philosophy is centred on individuality, luxury, style and understated elegance. We shy away from any gimmicks, aiming for a timeless quality. USP Thom Sweeney is known for its tailoring. We have a forward looking silhouette with a flattering waisted jacket, a natural but roped shoulder, high arm hole, slim sleeve and minimal canvasing. Ultimately for us its not about having one look or style that jumps out at you. There should be a subtle play on style and proportions that make it a ‘Thom Sweeney’. COLLABORATION WITH MR PORTER MR PORTER has been setting the global style agenda for men and we wanted a global partner to launch our debut ready-to-wear collection with. Its remarkable how men’s perceptions have changed (in a positive way) towards buying online and MR PORTER deserves a lot of the credit. Their innovative approach sits well with our forward thinking philosophy RTW VS BESPOKE Our ready-to-wear collection has been conceived from all the elements we love about bespoke tailoring. We’ve made sure the construction, quality and styling fits within our bespoke values. As always with our design the man is at the centre and our ready-to-wear is in our signature silhouette and uses great quality fabrics to create suits of exceptional style and value.
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The Soft Ricky Bag, QR9,650. Classic Cabled V-Neck Sweater, QR1,085 each. Skinny Jeans, QR1005.
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THE AMERICAN ICONS RALPH LAUREN’S BLUE LABEL SPRING SUMMER 2014 PAYS HOMAGE TO THE ROMANCE OF THE RICH COLOURS AND SPIRIT OF THE SOUTH WEST. Photographer: Julian Hargreaves Stylist: Ildo Damiano Make up: Gio Sanna at HM Battaglia Hair: Giorgia Trezzi at Closeup Milano Model: Jula represented by Monster Agency All clothing, accessories and shoes by Ralph Lauren Blue Label. Ralph Lauren boutique is located at Villaggio Mall.
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Linen Tweed Jacket in Red, QR3,054. White Shirt, QR1,000. Palermo Hudson Twill Jodhpur Pants, QR1,413.
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Hand-knit linen-blend Cardigan, QR6,107. Skinny Stretch Leather Pant in Red, QR1,160. White Jeala Sandal, price on request.
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Crocheted Leather Poncho in Black, QR15,335. Skinny Stretch Leather Pant in Orange, QR1,160.
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Silk Gauze Striped Top, QR1,667. Silk-cotton Cargo Short, QR1,000. White Jeala Sandal, price on request.
GLAM / BEAUTY
BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
APRIL 2014
IN A BID TO OFFER YOU ONLY THE LATEST IN BEAUTY, WE’VE REVAMPED OUR BEAUTY BOOTY SECTION. HERE YOU WILL FIND ONLY THE CUTTING EDGE IN BEAUTY EXPERTISE. THIS MONTH WE INTRODUCE A MUST-HAVE WEEKEND FASHION ACCESSORY – HAIRCHALK, BESIDES A HOST OF OTHERS TO KEEP YOU GLOWING.
This Friday Night: Weekend hair has never been so spontaneous. “Poster girls for the hair chalk trend range from colour chameleon Katie Perry and the softly highlighted Rachel McAdams to Kate Bosworth and Diane Kruger whose sublime colouredombre gives the front row seal of approval.” – James Galvin, Daniel Galvin Creative Director.
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Roar like Miss Perry with these truly pink lips. New from the house of Bobbi Brown. Pink has never been more in.
GET THE LOOK
GLAM’S TIPS TO GET YOU THERE… STEP 1
Brush the hair according to the desired style and shake the Hairchalk bottle gently before each use. Wear protective gloves and use a towel to avoid staining hands and clothes. Do not exert pressure on the bottle and ensure you apply a small quantity only in order to avoid formation of a drop inside the applicator. Pour the product carefully without touching the edges. Slightly reapply in case of unevenness, close and pinch the applicator so that product is distributed on the entire inner surface.
STEP 2
Select a section of hair and slide the applicator down to where the colour effect is desired Wait for about 30 seconds to a minute for the product to dry.
STEP 3
Isolate the hair section and evenly distribute the product by combing. Repeat if a more intense effect is desired or more sections need to be coloured. Do not forget to add more inside the applicator. For optimal results, comb each coloured section several times with a fine toothed comb. To reduce staining, wash with water immediately after each application. For a smoother result, brush each hair section after application with a hair dryer.
REMOVAL
The product washes out with shampoo and lasts an average of three washes depending on the amount of product applied and the type of hair. To remove colour quicker, apply shampoo on dry hair. The product should be applied in small quantities as applying too much product will compromise the cosmeticity of hair and ability to brush it. Retail price, QR. 110.
FIRM FOUNDATION
We love Katy’s clear look, It is no secret that to perfect your makeup, the final touches are as important as the foundation itself. Inspired by the demands of professionals and designed to satisfy every woman’s daily needs, Make Up Forever just released its HD Pressed Powder and HD Cream Blush, the 2 new additions in the HD range which guarantee the ideal final touches of adding a hint of colour and setting up the makeup for a luminous long-lasting finish. The HD range is a new generation of makeup that perfects skin for extreme close-ups on camera and is also designed to make women’s complexion look flawless under daylight.
TAN-TASTIC
Summer is truly here. If you’d like a tan, why not try the self tanning beautifying jelly from Lancaster. Thanks to the brand’s Tan Color Adapt Technology, it is now possible to reproduce all the shades of a natural tan without ever veering towards orange tones.
GLAM / BEAUTY
APRIL 2014
AQUA ALLEGORIA Every year since 1999, Guerlain has reinvented the timeless theme of freshness. Lit up by sparkling citrus, these delicate and happy botanical accords gain their full expression in the presence of exceptional raw materials. Of the 31 Aqua Allegoria fragrances that have flowered over the years, four have become House classics. A new edition, composed by Thierry Wasser, joins these benchmark creations each spring. This is Limon Verde.
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SKIN SPECIALISTS Created in Monaco in 1946, the Lancaster Laboratories launched their very first range of sun care products in the early seventies. At the time, the sun protection index was only in its infancy. At a very early stage, Lancaster identified the importance of sun protection in the fight against photo-aging. Since then, it has continued to innovate and establish itself among the champions of the fight against aging. Lancaster’s three most advanced anti-aging strategies have been combined into one and the same product, the Total Age Correction. Created for women from the age of 40, the range acts on cell after cell at the strategic points likely to play a role in the aging process.
BEAUTIFUL BLUEBERRIES The Body Shop has announced the launch of its new Special Edition Blueberry range, packed with Community Fair Trade ingredients. The Special Edition Blueberry range contains Blueberry Seed Oil, rich in Vitamin E which provides long-lasting moisturisation and skin nourishment. It also contains Community Fair Trade Shea Butter and Cocoa Butter from Ghana. Shea forms a barrier on the skin, protecting it and locking in moisture, while Cocoa softens and smoothes the skin. The Blueberry range includes Body Lotion, Body Butter, Body Scrub-Gelee, a gentle exfoliating scrub that leaves skin smelling like freshly picked blueberries and looks like real blueberry jam; the Blueberry Lip Butter; the Shower Gel and a fun bath sponge with a cute blueberry face.
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KISSED BY A ROSE BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
rom Shakespeare to the richest merchants of the East, few have been able to resist the fascinating beauty and enigmatic feel of a rose. Leading perfume makers from around the world have regularly used its essence to accentuate everything from soaps to scented candles. In an exclusive interview with Glam, we speak to Master Perfumer Marie Salagmagne, to find out more about an alluring new fragrance from the house of Jo Malone which will launch in the Middle East this month. Born in Paris in 1977, young Marie had an awareness and fascination for smells -- of attics, bread and even the earth. It is only later that she gave meaning to this attraction. Being born into a family of doctors, she quickly realised that her destiny was elsewhere. She entered the ISIPCA school in Versailles to become a perfumer, after obtaining a degree in chemistry. Marie leapt at the opportunity to join Firmenich as a student Perfumer in Geneva. After spending four months in New York where she started working in Fine Fragrance, she was nominated to join the
Firmenich Paris team of perfumers in January 2005, all before the age of 30. “I like working from a raw material that has a history to dress it, to enhance it,” says the perfumer. She feels particularly attracted to masculine notes like amber and wood. In her creations as well as in her life, Marie moves forward confidently and has now worked on fragrance creations for international perfume makers. We speak to her about her latest, the Tuberose Angelica. “The idea was to interpret the tuberose flower in a Jo Malone London way. I wanted to create a customtailored flower; modern and intensely sensual, simple yet refined, rich yet fresh,” she says. Tuberose possesses sumptuous femininity and angelica adds the unexpected twist. Traditionally tuberose as a natural essence is extracted using enfleurage. Describing the challenges, she says, “It took two years to create this perfume. The main challenge was how to bring power and contrast, without losing the freshness.”
MODEL OF THE MONTH Shot By: Rob Altamirano Makeup and Hair By: Blanca Montenegro Modelling agency: Trinity Talent Qatar
MADELINE MILTON Bubbly and full of spirit, 18-year-old British national Madeline Milton is ready to take the modelling industry by storm. After completing her A-levels at Doha College, she has chosen to take a gap year in order to concentrate on her modelling career.
FAN OF THE INDUSTRY
I love how modelling can allow you to represent a voice or an idea, which is exactly what I want to do. I’d love to be able to become someone who people can look up to. I’ve always loved the industry and as I get older I just fall in love with its ability to inspire even more.
PERSONAL STYLE
I have way too many clothes for my own good. My personal style in one word would be ‘chic’. My wardrobe generally consists of a lot of black and white with heavy jewellery. I usually go for a timeless look that doesn’t date. Some may call it safe but I believe you can’t go wrong with monochrome. My favourite designer is Simon Spurr - I’m actually a fan of men’s fashion!
ROLE MODEL
My favourite model has to be Alek Wek. I love how she is an inspiration to so many young girls out there - that models don’t have to have long blonde hair, blue eyes and a golden tan. She represents change and a different kind of beauty that emulates strength. I love how her facial features can carry any design that she’s given.
AMBITION
I would love to walk for Anna Sui. Her designs are just so different to my personal style, and I love stepping out of my comfort zone and representing playful fashion. If I don’t end up modelling then I will pursue into a different area of the fashion industry, as I shall be studying fashion design and marketing in London at the end of the year!
ADVICE
Always stay true to yourself, because a model isn’t just a pretty face. There are tons of beautiful girls out there but people look for a personality or someone with a voice as well, so always make sure you remain true to yourself, your morals and always be comfortable with the steps you’re taking. Contact: contact@trinityqatar.com and www.trinityqatar.com
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CRUNCH TIME IF DONE RIGHT, ARE 12 WEEKS REALLY ENOUGH TO TRANSFORM FROM SIZE I-CAN’T-FIT-INTOANYTHING TO SIZE OKAY-THAT’S-BETTER? AYSWARYA MURTHY TAKES ON THE CHALLENGE.
FITNESS / 99
The
collective knowledge of the human race has taught us to be wary of dramatic changes. All good things take time. A transformation is sustainable only if it is slow and measured, we have been told. And yet, we are uncontrollably drawn to solutions that don’t make too many demands on our time and/or the ability to remain motivated, both of which are often at a premium. And the Internet age has also accustomed us to speed, so much so that it’s starting to look like the new norm. You no longer need to work a lifetime to become a billionaire; just the first half of your twenties would do. You soon won’t be waiting 3-4 working days for your online order to arrive; Amazon is talking about doing it in 30 minutes or less. You don’t really have to sweat it out for over a year to transition from flabby to fabulous; it just takes 12 weeks, apparently. Naturally, I was intrigued. Though I have been chubby for as long as I can remember (except for a semester in college when the cafeteria offerings had completely put me off my food), I was never inclined to do anything about it until about ten years ago. It was about the time I realised that I wasn’t jolly enough to pull-off this round look. If I had had Rebel Wilson’s or Melissa McCarthy’s personality, cheese would have been my stable food and cola my elixir of life. Anyways, though I have been dieting and exercising on and off with varying degrees of success over the years, I am yet to be able to see my feet. This has made me a bit skeptical about whether gymming can really help me at all when genetics has screwed me over so badly. It is in this frame of mind of tempered optimism that I approached Crunch Doha. Not long after Nuwaid Pocker realised that he wanted to help others transform their physique, much like he had done for himself, he came together with Saima Sabih Bukhari who brought the business plan to life in March last year. Since their first intake in September, they have had over 70 clients who loved Crunch Doha’s promises of completely transforming their look in just 84 days; with 12 weeks of “eating clean and training dirty.” Their testimonials page is impressive, with before-and-after pics that’ll have you doing a double take. The 15kg, 25kg and even 30 kg, in one case, weight losses seem incredible, almost too
The brains behind Crunch Doha: Saima Sabih Bukhari and Nuwaid Pocker.
good to be true. I was giddy with excitement at the possibility, until I received the diet plan. Eighty four days and nights of lean protein, low carb meals (all measuring just a fist-size), protein shakes, supplements and, most devastating of all, no sugar! The FAQs reinforced the brutal nature of the diet - no dairy, no artificial flavours, no sauces. They have got to have a cheat day, I was muttering to myself as I scanned the list. Yes, they did! And then my heart fell with a resonating thud. It was on Day 84. And we should of course mention the two-hour workout sessions, five times a week. I remember how being too zealous in taking the stairs would leave me struggling to catch my breath and this left me nervous. Would I faint during my session one day? Or throw up? Or both? I have never used supplements before. What if my hair fell out? Or my teeth? Or both? And worst of all, what if I come out of the 12 weeks looking the same? We’ll find out together. Watch this space to follow my journey through Crunch Doha’s 12 week transformation programme. Next month onwards, we’ll bring you insights from the founders and trainers and experiences shared by fellow participants in addition to taking you through my own thoughts on how the programme has been working out for me so far. See you on the other side!
100 \ AROUND TOWN
SACOOR BROTHERS OPEN FIRST BOUTIQUE IN QATAR
Sacoor Brothers, the international fashion and lifestyle brand hailing from Portugal, has celebrated the opening of its first boutique in Qatar in one of Doha’s most popular shopping destinations, Ezdan Mall (pictured below). Already well-established throughout the Gulf region, the Doha opening has given the fashion conscious male and female shopper the chance to experience the unique Sacoor Brothers experience. Flowers and cool jazz notes were the sounds and fragrances accompanying the event as guests and media were introduced to the fabulous range of Sacoor Brothers fashion wear for the first time. Delighted shoppers were handed fragrant roses as they listened to a live jazz band and browsed the new boutique and had a chance to experience the brand’s new Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Each collection boasts of a carefully selected range of unique fabrics and materials of the upmost quality.
FASHION APPOINTMENT
In keeping with all things fashionable, Trinity Talent Qatar recently held an exquisite fashion show in collaboration with LIWA stores at the Ezdan Mall(above). More than 60 VIPs and approximately 500 casual mall guests came to watch the event unfold.
AROUND TOWN / 101
A RELAXED ATTITUDE
Now you can truly be one with the stars. B-attitude spa in Doha introduces Intraceuticals’ premiere oxygen treatment, inhalations and home-care products that can address the most challenging skin conditions through breakthrough science, and a new luxury brand for hair care called Leonor Greyl. Favoured by Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian and other Hollywood celebrities, Intraceuticals treatments are the only ones in the world that use oxygen under pressure to deliver a special serum of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, essential vitamins, botanicals, antioxidants and peptides to the skin. With just one treatment, skin is visibly and undeniably glowing, giving you a refreshed and radiant appearance in the long term. The spa in Doha is offering the full range of treatments and home-care products, which include Rejuvenate (smoothing the fine lines and wrinkes), Opulence (reducing the hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone), Atoxelene (for Botox effect on targeted wrinkles), and Oxygen Inhalations (for detoxifying the body).
GERMAN COLLABORATION
German fashion brand Gelco has landed in Qatar. Its inaugural branch, located at Landmark Mall, opened its doors to the public this March with Her Excellency Angelika Storz-Chakarji, the Ambassador of the Federal Republic of Germany at the inauguration. Gelco and Alsiddiqi Retail celebrated the launch of the brand in the region and began the event with a few words from the CEO of Alsiddiqi Holding, Aly Delawar, and H.E. Angelika Storz-Chakarji, while a fashion show displaying the colourful styles of Gelco rounded off the evening.
102 \ FASHION It’s time to be ready for beach season. Pull & Bear SS2014 campaign.
SUMMER READY SKIN BY JULIE DE BRITTO
SUMMER HAS ARRIVED, AND IT IS TIME TO BE READY FOR THE BIKINI SEASON! THE BEACHES, BLUE SKY, PALM TREES AND LOUNGE CHAIRS ARE JUST WAITING FOR YOU, IT ALL SOUNDS SO TEMPTING, RIGHT? SO COME ON, LET’S GET MOVING TO PREP YOUR SKIN FOR THE BEST SUMMER YET.
Stay hydrated before you get out in the sun. Pull & Bear SS2014 campaign.
Themae Body Massage Balm
We
are lucky to get summer almost all year long and when I think about my family back home (in Europe) still braving the winter weather in their boots and woolen scarves, I shiver just for them! You do want to look good in your first beach picture on Facebook or Instagram, no? Two important things to achieve that; stay protected and hydrated. But first of all, you skin needs to be ready. The first step to healthy skin is to do a dry brushing of your body. It will slough off dead or dry skin, improve circulation and promote your body’s detoxification system. Then comes the body scrub, either at home or in a spa, I leave this choice to you. It is very easy to do it at home, take either salt or sugar and mix it with oil: olive, almond, or coconut. Afterwards, you will need to apply a very moisturizing oil or balm. For the summer season, it is always better if you can have two types of body cream or lotion. One that you can apply every day and the second one, a richer cream to apply once a week to deeply moisturize your skin. During this season, and especially
BEAUTY / 103 here, the heat and the humidity will make your skin drier than usual so you will need that hydration boost weekly. I would recommend the Body Massage Balm from Themae that we use here in Remede Spa. The smell and the texture are absolutely heavenly. The balm is based with the best of the four teas; green, red, black and white, that will give your skin its weekly dose of anti-oxidant to keep it silky soft, protecting it against ageing. It also preserves your tan, that’s all you need for this summer! It is important to keep your skin hydrated from both inside and outside. So do not forget to drink water. I know I have repeatedly said this in previous columns but this is the ultimate beauty secret to great skin so I’ll keep repeating myself until I see everyone with their own bottle of water every day! You will also need to apply sun protection whenever you go out. Your face and your hands will be the body part most affected by the sun as they are exposed at all times so always wear a foundation and hand cream with SPF. To keep it simple, March is the month to add some sun protection products into your daily routine. And remember, do not burn! Not only is it very unhealthy to burn but it can ruin your tan as well. Hence try to tan yourself gradually over a number of days instead of going for it all at once. Once your body is ready, protected and hydrated do not forget you hair and nails! I mean having a great, silky soft healthy looking skin is good but it’s always better when it’s combined with healthy, shiny hair. Plus your summer shoes are ready to be worn so don’t let them down by not having done a pedicure! A great mani-pedi to begin the summer is good for everyone plus it’s time to choose some fun and bright summer colours. Speaking for myself, I love having a great manicure, it always make me feel better and the peachy colours give me the dose of energy, sun I need when I’m stuck in my office all day long! What about you? As for your hair, you know as well as me that the summer weather here is just terrible for us. It’s hot, it’s humid, and add to that the dust well it’s not the best cocktail to have healthy and shiny hair. But do not worry about it; I do have in mind a great recipe for a hair mask that is actually my favourite: banana and honey. The banana and honey mask has amazing moisturizing properties, strengthening hair to prevent breakage and maintaining natural hair elasticity as well as making hair appear bouncy and healthy. Honey is as well very important in a homemade hair mask. It has restorative properties that add moisture to lifeless hair, making it glowing and lustrous. Use 1 or 2 ripe bananas and 1 or 2 tablespoons of honey, it all depends on your hair length. Mash up the banana, mix it with the honey and apply, simple no? Leave the mask on for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse off with lukewarm water. I am pretty sure you already have that at home, so what are you waiting for? With all the tips here, you are good to spend a few hours in your bathroom so make it nice and comfortable for you. Bring along some music, a nice smoothie to drink for loads of vitamins and make sure you have everything you need close by before beginning anything. Do enjoy the first few minutes of sun when you go out in the morning, it does wonders for you, it warms your body, makes you smile and gives you great energy to begin your day!
SHOW STOPPERS Twenty30Forty A Qatar-based brand twothreefour.myshopify.com
SHOW STOPPERS
Twenty30Forty A Qatar-based brand twothreefour.myshopify.com
106 \ FASHION SHOW STOPPERS Twenty30Forty A Qatar-based brand twothreefour.myshopify.com