Contents
20 A LACEY AFFAIR
Resort 2014’s tres chic fabric, the lace is a difficult one to ace. Let us lay down the 101 to make sure you ace this trend.
21
SOMETHING BLUE
Mellow down from the festive season with a touch of calming blue to start your year with zen.
23 QATARI POWER
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .C O M
JANUARY 2014
Meet the Qatari powerhouse female fashion entrepreneurs who tell us how they juggle professional careers, business endeavours and family commitments all at once.
28 ROBINSON PELHAM
The down to earth design team behind this luxurious fine jewellery brand made their maiden voyage to the Middle East and designed two stunning pieces in tribute to the seas of Qatar.
Contents 34 FASHION EXCHANGE
Qatar’s biggest fashion event of 2013 at the stunning Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art was a spectacular display of cross culture between the UK and Qatar.
38 RESORT 2014
Itching for warmer weather already? Get in the mood with a range of midseason collections inspired by travels to the most exotic destinations.
48 ONE STOP SHOP
The coolest shopping finds in Doha is to be found in the hip multi-brand boutiques that are curated by the most stylish fashion makers in town.
52 REVIVING HISTORY
An interesting discovery into the restoration work on an iconic Dior Zemaire dress that was thought to have been lost forever.
56 DANA AL FARDAN
It is clear, Dana Al Fardan isn’t the cliché’d rockstar. Born to one of the most influential families in Qatar, she has given up her passion of jewellery design in the pursuit of music - a lifelong dream.
66 STYLE MEETS ART
Sculptural and digital design meets the artistic Calligraffiti murals in our fashion editorial spread.
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE JANUARY 2014
ON THE COVER LUCY STOKER PHOTOGRAPHER: ABDUL RAHMAN AL BAKER DRESS: EMILIA WICKSTEAD SHOT EXCLUSIVELY FOR GLAM
GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR
SINDHU NAIR DEBRINA ALIYAH
CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS
ABIGAIL MATHIAS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI AYSWARYA MURTHY
PHOTOGRAPHER
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
VENKAT REDDY
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
HANAN ABU SIAM
ROB ALTAMIRANO
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
SENIOR MANAGER – MARKETING
ASSISTANT MANAGER - MARKETING
SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS
HASAN REKKAB
LYDIA YOUSSEF
MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT
SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE
DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT
AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B ZULFIKAR JIFFRY THOMAS JOSE
KANWAL BALUCH PRATAP CHANDRAN BIKRAM SHRESTHA ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI
BASANTHA.P
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF
YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
The world’s first Calligraphy artist, El Seed, whose work can be seen around Doha, collaborated with the students of VCUQ for a special project at car park of The Gate Mall. Watch the video of the making of the project to find out more about this creative collaboration.
EVENTS OF THE MONTH Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore 20 November 2013 – 2 March 2014 Somerset House, London. Somerset House, in partnership with the Isabella Blow Foundation and Central Saint Martins, is proud to present a major fashion exhibition celebrating the extraordinary life and wardrobe of the late British patron of fashion and art. Born into the rarefied world of British aristocracy, Isabella’s thirty year career began in the early 80s as Anna Wintour’s assistant at US Vogue. On her return to London in 1986, she worked at Tatler followed by British Vogue. In 1997 she became the Fashion Director of the Sunday Times Style after which she returned to Tatler as Fashion Director. Driven by a passion for creativity, Isabella is credited for having nurtured and inspired numerous artists and designers.
SANDEEP SEHGAL
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT
ALPANA ROY
VICE PRESIDENT
RAVI RAMAN
COMING UP
GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL. THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION. CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982
Two rising stars in the London fashion’s scene Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda Ilincic sits down with GLAM for an exclusive look into their Resort 2014 collection.
Contributors FIONA MAY Ex-nurse and kindergarten teacher, Fiona May has been living in Qatar for ten years with her husband and five children. With a penchant for shopping for cute shoes and expensive handbags, Fiona is a fitness fanatic and spends most her time at the gym sweating it out in cross-training and yoga classes, if she is not doing her favourite thing, which is reading.
BLANCA MONTENEGRO Blanca is a no stranger to the hair and make-up scene of Doha, having worked extensively with JCCTV, Al Jazeera News, top filmmakers, photographers, talent agencies, fashion magazines and local celebrities. With close to 30 years of international experience, she also specialises in Brazilian Keratin, spray tan, 3DM eyelash extension and eyebrows services. Find her at montenegroblanka0@gmail.com
FRANK PROVOST - ERIC PASCUAL Franck Provost’s senior hairstylist and make up artist Eric takes charge in our fashion editorial giving the model a complete makeover to an Oriental-inspired look. Eric has been a Kerastase Ambassador for Doha since 2009 and has extensive experience doing hair and make up for film festivals and editorials. He specializes in avant garde and conceptual styling.
ANGEL MALLARI Michael Angelo Mallari, or widely known as Angel Mallari, is one of the Gulf’s most versatile photographer. He has extended his passion and expertise in the photography of beauty, fashion, portrait, food and interiors. His clients and models best describe him as a photographer who is very easy to work with, fun loving, and creative. Angel shoots our beauty editorial.
JULIE DE BRITO The Remede Spa at the St. Regis Doha and GLAM have paired up to offer skincare and well-being tips for our readers in a column answered by Julie De Brito. Be it questions, comments, or just to enquire about new products, drop us a line on our social pages, @GlamQatar on Twitter and www.facebook.com/GlamQatar to send in your questions, and we will get the therapists to answer them! If you prefer to be anonymous, just tell us and we will gladly respect your privacy.
ABDUL RAHMAN AL-BAKER Young, electric, perfectionist! These are a few words to describe Abdul Rahman’s personality and work ethics. He graduated with a BFA of Fine Art majoring in Graphic Designs and Technology from Emmanuel College, Boston. He has since worked in PR, managing all creative aspects of various projects that include filming, photography, design and events management. He lends his fantastic photographic eye to our fashion editorial this month.
YOUR VOICE ON TWITTER & FACEBOOK We asked you to pick your favourite GLAM 2013 covers and we had a wide range of selections! Zeena Kanaan I love your October cover, because I love the color of the orange dress, the shot, and I also love that it features Qatar’s first international brand, QELA. Shadi Majid Barghouti July/August 2013. It gives the cover a great Arabic theme. Jennifer Douglas I actually like this most recent cover because I think Miranda Kerr is stunning and is an excellent role model for women. She is humble and down to earth. Hina Butt I loved Hritik Roshan on the cover. I dont wanna sound uber proud but my pic was published as part of the crowd in a event, so it’s one of my prized possession! Khansa Abdul Jaleel My favorite issue is the October 2013 issue featuring QELA. Every time Qatar does something remarkable it always makes me so happy. A feeling of belonging to Qatar - any accomplishment it makes is like one I feel proud to be a part of. And the same with GLAM Qatar’s Only Fashion Title and more so when it features the uniqueness of Qatar Congrats on your sixth anniversary! Elizabeth Wardle Walker My pick was the Dita Von Teese cover as she is the epitome of cool and chic, as is Glam Magazine! I loved that she advised women to dress in what makes them feel good and make the most of what they have. The “Woo Your Valentine” article showed some great gifts to give to your love on the most romantic day of the year. The Muscat Fashion Week article showcased the best of Omani fashion. Lots of reasons why the Feb 2013 issue of Glam was my fav! Ana Figueiredo My favourite Glam cover was the issue with Giselle Bundchen! I love how effortlessly beautiful she looks and inspires us all to be just a “girl with wind on your face” enjoying life. The black and white effect just add that extra vintage glam look!
G Talk LAM BRINGS HIGHLIGHTS OF THE FASHION EXCHANGE, A PROGRAMME THAT WAS PART OF THE QATAR-UK CULTURE YEAR TO ENCOURAGE ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN QATAR, WITH EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS WITH DESIGNERS FROM THE UK AS WELL AS INSIGHTFUL DISCUSSIONS WITH OUR OWN QATARI DESIGNERS. WE HAVE TRIED TO RECREATE THE BEAUTIFUL NIGHT AT MATHAF: THE ARAB MUSEUM OF MODERN ART WHERE DESIGNERS AND THE FASHION PACK OF DOHA MET AND MINGLED. ADDED TO THE FASHION SHOW PUT UP BY THE QATARI AND BRITISH DESIGNERS, THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE EVENING WAS THE ONE-OFA-KIND EXHIBITION ON THE GROUNDS OF MATHAF, A BLEND OF THE WORKS OF THE GREAT STEPHEN JONES AND L’WREN SCOTT. IT WAS FASHION STEEPED IN HISTORY. A GOOD END TO THE FASHION PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES AS THE YEAR OF COLLABORATION CAME TO AN END IN 2013. AS THE UK DESIGNERS LEFT DOHA, ONE COLLECTIVE OBSERVATION WAS THAT THE GOOD VIBES AND STRONG PARTNERSHIPS GENERATED BY THE QATAR-UK YEAR OF CULTURE HELPED IN CHANGING PERCEPTIONS. THE MIDDLE EAST AND QATAR SPECIFICALLY WITH THE 2022 WORLD CUP AND THE ‘IN-HUMAN TREATMENT OF LABOURER’ ISSUES HANGING OMINOUSLY, GENERATES AN IMAGE OF A DOWNTRODDEN COUNTRY WITH ITS SOCIETY BOUND BY A DESPOTIC LEADERSHIP. FOR THE BRITISH DESIGNERS WHO WERE HERE, THE SIGHTS OF THE FASTDEVELOPING COUNTRY WITH A DIVERSE MIX OF NATIONALITIES CAME AS A PLEASANT SURPRISE. WHILE EACH OF THEM CARRIED BACK A SLICE OF THE DESERT COUNTRY, ITS BOUNDLESS HOSPITALITY AND IMAGES OF THE ABAYACLAD STRONG AND PASSIONATE WOMEN TRYING HARD TO MAKE A MARK, THE FASHION INDUSTRY AND THE EVENTS MANAGEMENT TEAM HERE IN DOHA GAINED A GLIMPSE OF THE PROFESSIONALISM AND COMPETENCE OF THESE BRITISH DESIGNERS. IT WAS A LEARNING EXPERIENCE FOR ALL.
EDITOR’S PICK WHAT IS THE ONE DEFINING FASHION STATEMENT THAT STOOD OUT LAST YEAR? FOR ME IT WAS STEPHEN JONES ADVICE FOR THE BLOSSOMING NEW GENERATION OF FASHION DESIGNERS AT VCUQ, ONE THAT STRIKES A CHORD FOR ALL OF US: “LISTEN TO YOUR HEART AND SOUL BUT ALSO LISTEN TO YOUR TRUE CRITIC”. HERE ARE THE GLIMPSES OF THE BEAUTIFUL WORK OF THE TWO DESIGNERS, STEPHEN JONES AND L’WREN SCOTT, A MUSEUM OF ITS OWN RIGHT, A CULMINATION OF THEIR YEARS OF PARTNERSHIP.
GLAM / NEWS
JANUARY 2014
CHANEL’S TIME TO RETURN The haute couture and cosmetics brand has released the second teaser for its much-anticipated short film “The Return,” written and directed by Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld. This second teaser takes us behind the scenes of “The Return” for an interview with actress Géraldine Chaplin, who stars in the film as Coco Chanel. Charlie Chaplin’s daughter speaks of her first meeting with the great couturier. Exploring one part of Gabrielle Coco Chanel’s life and career, this short film of around 30 minutes will premiere on December 10 at the opening of Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 2013/14 fashion show in Dallas.Karl Lagerfeld’s film focuses on Coco Chanel’s return to the fashion world, including the reopening of her couture workshop in Paris in 1954, and explores the legendary couturiere’s special ties to the United States. (Relaxnews)
GLAMOROUS CRYSTAL CREATIONS UNVEILED Dubai’s fashionistas learnt there’s a Swarovski Jewelry creation for every occasion at an exclusive style and fashion event hosted by Saudi fashion blogger and designer Alanoud Badr. As part of a worldwide styling campaign held in the hottest fashion capitals of the world, the Swarovski event arrived at the Swarovski Boutique in The Dubai Mall where VIPs, fashion bloggers and top editors celebrated the night. Badr, famous for her Lady Fozaza blazers, charmed the crowd with her enthusiasm and love of fashion; giving tips on how to incorporate Swarovski Jewelry for every kind of look; the office, the traveler or the glamorous cocktail party look to name a few.
18 \ NEWS BUZZ Christopher Kane, winner for Womenswear Design Category
Suzy Menkes OBE (winner, BFC Special Recognition)
Gwyneth Paltrow and Miucca Prada at the awards ceremony.
A CELEBRATION OF BRITISH FASHION London’s Coliseum hosted the annual British Fashion Awards, with some of the world’s top fashion talent turning up in the UK capital for the glamorous bash. Sixteen different awards were presented at the ceremony in front of a star-studded audience which included appearances from Donatella Versace, Kate Moss, One Direction’s Harry Styles, Miuccia Prada, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sienna Miller, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Christopher Kane took home the coveted top prize for Womenswear Designer of the Year in honour of his hugely successful 2013 shows as well as his deal with luxury giants Kering, which will see major growth in his burgeoning men’s and women’s lines. A new category honouring the ‘International Designer of the Year’ went to Italian fashion legend Miuccia Prada to celebrate her place on Time magazine’s list of the 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century, as well as her season-defining Prada collections, which seem to come like clockwork. British brand Burberry got a double whammy win in the form of ‘Designer Brand of the Year’ and the ‘Menswear Designer of the Year award’, which was given to current creative director (and future CEO) Christopher Bailey.
Rita Ora & Nicholas Kirkwood (Accessory Designer of the Year)
A COMPLETE LIST OF WINNERS: Emerging Womenswear Designer – Simone Rocha Emerging Menswear Designer – Agi & Sam Emerging Accessories Designer –Sophia Webster Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator – Lady Amanda Harlech Model of the Year – Edie Campbell International Designer of the Year – Miuccia Prada for Prada Red Carpet Award – Erdem New Establishment Designer of the Year – J.W. Anderson Brand of the Year – Burberry British Style Award brought by Vodafone – Harry Styles Accessory Designer of the Year – Nicholas Kirkwood Menswear Designer of the Year – Christopher Bailey, Burberry Womenswear Designer of the Year – Christopher Kane BFC Outstanding Achievement Award – Terry and Tricia Jones Special Recognition Award – Kate Moss Special Recognition Award – Suzy Menkes
Lady Amanda Harlech (winner, Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator) & Stella Tennant
GLAM / SHOP
JANUARY 2014
WITH LOVE FROM PARIS In 1954, Jean Marlaix opened the first La Bagagerie boutique on the world famous Parisian street, the Champs Elysée. In his pursuit of a younger and sporty look, Jean Marlaix was inspired to create new, more casual designs, better suited to female silhouettes. For this Fall-Winter 2013-2014 season, the brand drew from its archives to offer modern models inspired from old collections. This proudly ‘made in France’ line highlights the style of 60s and offers three models decorated with vintage details, as a horizontal single or a lock on the front pocket. A fashion handbag with the braided handles and a small crossbody bag are available in chocolate, caramel and black colours.
20 \ SHOPTALK
SHARP DRESSING A mix of sharply tailored designs and soft, fluid textures make up the Micheal Kors Spring 2014 collection. These include the sensuous shirt dress, the feminine shirt and easy trousers , among others. Pair them with a softly structure clutch and satchel, and you will never be out of style.
SHOPTALK / 21
A WATCH FOR THE SEASON HE Martin Aeschbacher, the Swiss ambassador in Qatar launched the Boutique of Frederique Constant in City Center Doha. The boutique displayed a wide variety of good quality and luxurious products distinguishing the remarkable brand in the international market. Representing the partnership between Al Jaber Watches and Makki for Watches and Jewellery, the event was attended by Mohamed Al Jaber, the Chairman of Al Jaber Watches, Emad Makki, the GM of Makki for Watches and Jewellery. “This event reflects the vitality of the relationship between both Al Jaber Watches Co. and Makki for Watches and Jewellery Co. and fosters the existence of the brand in here and the relationship between Qatar and the Republic of Switzerland,� according to the officials.
IRRESISTIBLE FUN Get set this season for an irresistible collection of accessories and shoes by Shoe Mart, drawing contrasting inspirations from the future and Mother Nature. The shoes collection, Marvel-Women and Outre-Women encompasses a soft feminine look defining natural tones with delicate fabric and pastel, earthy shades mixed with trims and a suede finish. The collection revives magnificent heritage boasting lavish jewellery in customary designs and cuts. For the daring, embellish your eccentric style with Glam Goth pieces for that dark mood look. Shoe Mart is available at Al-Asmakh Mall, City Center Mall, Barwa Mall and Dar Al Salam Mall.
22 \ STYLE THIS
Lace Biker Jacket, Christopher Kane, Net-A-Porter.
LACEY AFFAIR
Tortoise Shell Sunglasses, Salvatore Ferragamo, Porto Arabia.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Crepe & Lace Gown, Stella McCartney, Porto Arabia, QR19,936.
Floral Lace Dress Slippers, Nicholas Kirkwood, The Closet, Porto Arabia, QR3,099.
One of the undercurrent trends that has been quietly working its way into recent runway shows is the emergence of lace fabrics. We have to admit that it is one of those trends that walk a fine line between granny fashion and mod chic. Not to mention, it is one very unforgiving texture on the wrong body shapes so many tend to just avoid it all together! But with the many interpretations out there in the latest Resort 2014 collections, we found the perfect pieces that will bring out the delicate side of your fashion persona. Go for small lace patterns or motifs, like this all-white ensemble from Michael Kors (above), or pick pieces with lace appliquĂŠs on unconventional cuts like the biker jacket from Christopher Kane. Balance out the overtly vintage factor with edgy separates including leather.
Cotton Linen and Lace Miniskirt, Balenciaga, Porto Arabia, QR2,831.
SAVE
VS
SPLURGE
SOMETHING
BLUE
1 ●
Kick off the New Year with a little something blue for the traditional notion of good luck. No, it is not only for brides, the calming shade exudes a sense of renewal for everyone to face a brand new chapter! While we are still enjoying the cool temperatures of a mild winter, grab a light trench coat and keep your style relaxed in these super casual yet luxe selections. Cruise into 2014 with lots of zen!
4 ●
1 ●
3 ●
4 ●
2 ●
2 ●
SAVE 1 Belted Trench Coat, QR296. ● 2 Relaxed Crop Trousers, QR148. ● 3 Utility Jumpsuit, QR99. ● 4 Sling Satchel, QR123. ●
All items available from H&M, Villaggio & Landmark Mall.
3 ●
SPLURGE 1 Shower Proof Trench coat, ●
Lacoste, Landmark Mall, QR1,728.
2 Layered Trousers, Issey Miyake, ●
www.farfetch.com, QR3,582.
3 Satin Trimmed Jumpsuit, By ●
Malene Birger, Lagoona Mall, QR1,802.
4 Heroine Chain Satchel, Alexander ●
McQueen, Porto Arabia, QR7,590.
AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
KAREN KARCH Edgy yet timeless, the jewellery collection of Karen Karch is definitely collectable material. The designer, who has been making fine jewellery for over two decades, has got a unique design vision that reinvents the term classic. Steering away from the conventional definitions of classic jewellery, Karen uses precious stones to create individualised statement pieces. Her early street-inspired designs caused a stir, earning her work the moniker, “dangerous jewellery”, and many celebrities including Celine Dion are fans. Signature designs include long beaded strand necklaces, and finely drawn bracelets worn in stacks. Shop the eclectic designer at www.karenkarch.com
MIU MIU BIJOUX JEWELS What keeps us going back to Miu Miu time and time again is the ability of the brand to update and reinvent their signature offerings to make things fresh. This season, the label’s signature Bijoux jewels get a makeover pairing some really fun colours to its brass necklaces and earrings. Experimenting with bright hues and materials, the bijoux jewels are perfect additions to solid colour outfits. The necklaces and earrings are mixed with multi-colour crystals while the plexi bracelets feature bejewelled clasps. Prices start from QR1,925. Miu Miu is located at Villaggio Mall.
VALENTINO X HAVAIANAS COLLABORATION The coming together of two very different worlds, the red carpet couture of Valentino with the casual comfort of Havaianas, results in a range of covetable flip-flops that will bring the chic back to sandals. Part of Valentino’s Spring Summer 2014 collection, the flip-flops will be available in a wide range of colours and customisable straps including studs, camouflage, leather or bright neons. The standard pairs start from QR1,015 while the alligator strap range will start from QR2,468 per pair. And it goes without saying that this collection will be of a limited issue so it is advisable to put your orders in now before it is too late! Valentino is located at Villaggio Mall.
FOCUS / 25
MARRIAGEOF COMMITMENT
QATARI FASHION ENTREPRENEURS GO THE EXTRA MILE BY DEBRINA ALIYAH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ABDUL RAHMAN AL BAKER
BEYOND THE GLITZ AND GLAMOUR, THE AIM OF FASHION EXCHANGE IS TO CONTINUOUSLY PROMOTE ENTREPRENEURSHIP AMONG QATARI DESIGNERS. ROUDHA CENTER, THE KEY PLAYER IN THIS PROGRAMME, HAS BEEN WORKING TIRELESSLY BY ORGANISING WORKSHOPS, TALKS AND TRUNK SHOWS TO PROVIDE PLATFORMS FOR QATARI WOMEN TO PROMOTE THEIR BUSINESSES. AMONG THE QATARI DESIGNERS WHO PARTICIPATED IN THE FASHION EXCHANGE PROGRAMME WERE FATTHIYA AL JABER AND ELHAM AL ANSARI, BOTH AT DIFFERENT CROSSROADS IN THEIR DESIGN CAREERS BUT READY TO TAKE ON THE NEXT CHALLENGE.
26 \ FOCUS
SPREADING WINGS
FATTHIYA AL JABER
How many abayas does a woman need? Fatthiya Al Jaber currently has sixty pieces on rotation in her wardrobe. Are they all black? Yes. But are they all the same? No. “Look, people tend to overlook details and fittings. That’s why Arab women excel at this, we have the eye for the details,” she quips. The eye for the detail, and the precise attention to finishing, is what takes the budding fashion designer’s collection to the next level. Fatthiya is wearing one of her own designs, an abaya layered with a gorgeous knit crochet. From afar, the colour black might deceive the eyes but up-close, the texture of the crochet is mesmerising. “Of course it’s not all the same. Just like regular outfits, you have clean crisp abayas for work, bejewelled ones for evening, heavy fabrics for winter, and little surprises under the sleeves just for our own eyes,” she explains. What had started as a hobby four years ago for Fatthiya has now grown into a fashion label with ever-eager fans. And by the time she presented her collection at The September Show, she caught the attention of not only Qataris at home but also those living in London. “It was my big break. I am so humbled by the overwhelming response but it has also given me the defining push for my business,” she says. A finance executive with Qatar Foundation, Fatthiya is now wearing the many hats that Qatari women often do; professional career, entrepreneurial endeavour and family responsibilities. This new wave of female
entrepreneurship in Qatar was the main reason why Roudha Center was initiated; to assist and empower Qatari women in expanding their business ventures. “I first joined the centre through a fashion exhibition and now they help us through workshops, training and talks on various issues regarding conducting business,” she says. Fatthiya credits the evolving role of women in the community as a big part of her success. “A decade earlier, you would not see women publicly representing their brand. They are always working in the background but now, the community is so supportive. We are doing press interviews and telling the world about what we are doing,” she explains. And now that the field has leveled from a gender perspective, women can focus on the bigger picture. “Of course, there are always obstacles to running a business. Capital funding, resources, and the whole works,” she says. Fatthiya is ready to spread her wings to include regional markets. She has started receiving custom orders from the UAE, but she is quick to recognise that the abaya market is vastly different from one Gulf country to another. “Women from different Gulf countries wear different abayas. This is what makes us distinctive. The abayas I make now have a very Qatari identity to them, which would not appeal to women from, say, the Emirates or Bahrain,” she explains.
FOCUS / 27
28 \ FOCUS
FOCUS / 29 NO PRECONCEIVED NOTIONS
ELHAM AL ANSARI During The September Show trip to London, Elham Al Ansari disappeared every morning during breakfast on a secret mission. On one fortunate morning, she returned with a much treasured contact card and revealed the mystery behind her sneaking around. “I got the contact of the retail manager of Harrods, and asked Roudha Center to help me draft proposals in English,” she explains. It turns out she had been visiting Harrods every morning hoping to meet the right person to speak to about carrying her collection at the luxury department store. “And that is my life mission,” she says, “to be able to sell in Harrods.” This is not her first attempt though. She has been trying for the past couple of years ever since a regular client of hers suggested the idea. Elham is one of the pioneering fashion entrepreneurs in Qatar, making her first jalabiya some eight years ago. She has established herself as a niche designer especially for traditional abayas and occasion wear jalabiyas. Her success is well-known locally, and she counts many of the most distinguished Qatari families as her regular clients. But the story of Elham goes beyond her creative work; this is the story of one woman who solidly stood her ground against the changing social landscape of Qatar. “I started this business with my own savings without the help of anyone else, and this is the way I would like it to remain. A lot of partnership offers have come in ever since my business grew but I declined all of them. I want to be responsible for my own successes and failures,” she says. Elham is one of the very few purveyors of traditional abayas left amid a tsunami of modern abaya labels in Qatar. She herself wears the traditional abaya with a niqab, and is fiercely protective of her own heritage. “During the London event, I was speaking to somebody who laughed at me when I told her I was a fashion designer. Apparently I didn’t have the right ‘designer look’ with my niqab and abaya. After my runway presentation, that person was speechless,” she relates. “This is me, I want to break stereotypes. It is my choice to wear the traditional abaya and not reveal my face but this doesn’t represent my design work. My designs speak for themselves.” As the younger generation gravitates towards modern abaya designs, the original abayas including abaya al misah, samakah, and al bisch, are losing their appeal. “To be honest, modern abaya is like fast fashion, they get thrown away after the trend fades but these traditional pieces become heirlooms, passed from generations to generations.” “Being an entrepreneur in Qatar or anywhere else requires planning and a step-by-step progression. Many young designers come to me for advice and I would tell them to build their brand slowly instead of taking huge leaps like investing in big standalone stores,” she says.
30 \ FOCUS
JEWEL IN THE CROWN BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
SHATTERING THE MYTH THAT WOMEN CANNOT WORK TOGETHER IS THE TRIO FROM ROBINSON PELHAM – THE INNOVATIVE BRITISH BRAND KNOWN FOR ITS BESPOKE JEWELLERY. VANESSA CHILTON, ZOE BENYON AND KATE PELHAM BURN HAVE TOGETHER RUN A SUCCESSFUL COMPANY FOR THE PAST 16 YEARS.
Martini Elystan Pendant
FOCUS / 31
F
rom rose cut diamond earrings, to a gold elephant bangle with interchangeable stones, their designs are always a cut above. The brand specialises in matching “the right jewel to the right wearer” and has orchestrated more than 7,000 private commissions of fine statement jewellery. The brand was an important part of Fashion Exchange Qatar which concluded in December. In an exclusive interview, GLAM spoke to Vanessa Chilton, Director of Robinson Pelham who discusses the brand’s first visit to the region. What do you believe has was the brand’s vision when it first started and how is it perceived today? We always wanted to provide a service to people and not just make mass jewellery. The ready-to-wear and the bespoke jewellery has been a big part of our business. It is what we do best. Putting the designs down on paper and creating something that our customers will grow old with and hand over to another generation is very important to us. We aren’t making jewellery for everybody. That leaves the field too wide. We enjoy different customers. Someone wants an eternity ring, another wants a whole range of services. Every day is a new beginning on that front. We have great and loyal customers who come in. They buy their yearly pieces from us. Some of our clients have been coming to us for almost 14 years. It is lovely when the next generation comes in to the store with loyal earlier patrons from the same family. It isn’t a family business; we are business partners. We get to know our customers. They know what we are about. They can sit down and have a chat. It is a relaxed shopping experience unlike what you would see in a conventional store which often feels a bit rushed. We are very conscious of our customers and offer them one-on-one time.
Jewellery is such a personal thing. It is difficult to spend thousand of dollars on a piece, so we understand our client’s perspective and nuture a relationship built on trust.
What do you hope to achieve as a result of being part of Doha’s first Fashion Exchange? I think of our visit as an opportunity to open a gateway to the world. It is a chance for the distinct embracers of fashion in Middle East to see what we do, up close. As a jewellery line we are gradually growing, so that the world can enjoy our jewels. We were always interested in exhibiting in this part of the world and this is a fantastic opportunity. The fashion exchange is a celebration of the merging of two cultures. In keeping with the collaboration we have tied in to the culture of Doha. A few pieces made exclusively for the show were showcased during the catwalk held at the Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art in Doha.
Volcano Asteroid ring
Blue Lagoon Elystan ring
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California Sunset Elystan Ring
Summer Elystan pendant set with pink tourmaline
White diamond Elystan earrings
California Sunset Elystan Earrings
What were some of the lasting impressions of the region? I had read so much about Doha before coming to the region and was so intrigued by the country and was ready to embrace it completely. In fact we designed a few signature pieces for the fashion exchange. One of them is a pearl ring with stones that represent the colours of the sea. It is an ode to the pearl diving traditions of the country before oil was discovered. The ring has been designed with a beautiful wave that is set in neon blue diamonds. This piece was painstakingly created. We also created another exclusive piece which is made to be worn on an abaya. It is made with Elyston diamonds and has a bridge fitting so it can be easily attached. The piece is fitted with rose diamonds and pearls.
W
hat are some of the quintessential pieces of Robinson Pelham that makes up a woman’s collection? The Elystan collection which we released last year is extremely popular. They are in our new ready-to-wear adventurous section of the shop. They symbolise where we are going with our jewellery. The asteroid collection made of opal and grey diamonds are also hugely popular at the moment. Colour is a prominent feature in our stores as well as in our jewellery. We want people to feel happy when they enter our stores. It is light and airy and makes you feel good. Our jewellery is bright and easy to wear and you don’t feel too over the top. We reduced the size of the rings for the customer who doesn’t want to wear a diamond that is quite as big. We enjoy making these signature pieces. This year we have the other collection Juke Pink. These are quite big and colourful. They have a beautiful centre stone. With every piece, we make sure that the client’s
requests are somehow incorporated. The Duchess of Cambridge is one of your most publicised possessors of a piece of your designs. Can you tell us more about the earrings designed for this most auspicious occasion? The earrings worn by HRH The Duchess of Cambridge on her wedding day were a gift by her parents. The diamond set stylised oak leaves with a pear shaped diamond set drop and a pavé set diamond acorn suspended in the centre. Inspiration for the design came from the family’s coat of arms which includes acorns and oak leaves, and it references to the Cartier Halo tiara worn by her. When a client asks for a bespoke creation has there ever been something that is far too extravagant or over the top for your team to carry out? (Laughing) That hasn’t really happened. I oversee all the designs here and really enjoy the bespoke and couture pieces which are fun to do. We always have an open discussion with our clients. People can come with their ideas or no ideas at all. Many clients come with old pieces of jewellery which they want to refashion. If it is not a signed piece, we discuss and take great care to retain the authenticity of a piece. We totally embrace a client’s creative pursuit. In fact we steer them towards that direction. It is only if something is aesthetic that we step in. For me I find that it is really useful to talk to a customer and draw what you mean when they are here. We do encourage the customers to come and try the rings while they are being made. To see the way it feels on the finger. It might be their first venture. You need to guide them and hold their hand really and that process takes time. Jewellery is such a personal thing. It is difficult to spend thousand of dollars on a piece, so we understand our client’s perspective and nuture a relationship built on trust.
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“SEIZE THE MOMENT” BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
AS A FASHION DESIGNER, BUSINESSWOMAN AND A MOTHER, EMILIA WICKSTEAD BELIEVES THAT THE PERFECT TOOL OF EMPOWERMENT FOR WOMEN AROUND THE WORLD IS IN FASHION.
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GLIMPSES FROM EMILIA WICKSTEAD’S SPRING SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION
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STYLE
and sensibility. These two defining elements have made Emilia Wickstead’s collections a winning formula among women living in the public eye. Dresses that nip at the right places to flatter and silhouettes that are both charming and modest, it is the perfect script that has turned figures like Samantha Cameron and Kate Middleton into fans. Not that you cannot imagine her designs on everyday women. If anything, it is like a rite of passage when you slip into one of her pieces. At some point in every woman’s life, there comes a time when the definitive dress is needed to truly make you feel like a lady, sans all the out-thisworld seasonal fan fare. The magical Wickstead (Emilia’s mother Angela Wickstead is a legendary couturier too) touch, gives new vibrancy to the otherwise all-toofamiliar dread of formal dressing. Her Spring Summer 2014 collection of dreamy pieces that flounce look equally appropriate for a society charity do as a Caribbean vacation. “I was inspired by the music of the Mississippi, by the rhythm and blues. It’s all about having a lively spirit and a sense of fun,” she says. It has been nearly three years since Emilia launched her ready-to-wear collections winning her legions of fans, which have since expanded beyond the highsociety circles. From a business model that was run out of her living room on a made-to-measure only basis in 2008, Emilia’s rapid rise has been quick, undoubtedly because of the niche she has created for herself and her
I was inspired by the music of the Mississippi, by the rhythm and blues. It’s all about having a lively spirit and a sense of fun,
precise crafting skills. Just like much of her designs that often tell a story of unhurried ladylikeness, her madeto-measure clients remain the core of her business perpetuating a romantic notion of bespoke tailoring. “It is still the best part of my business today. Moving into ready-to-wear has been so exciting though, especially because that means I can be a part of fashion week and it’s great to see the collections growing from strength to strength at the atelier and online,” she says. And the industry is definitely paying attention, with Emilia securing the coveted nomination for the British Fashion Council Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2014 (the winner will be announced later this January). When Emilia’s Spring Summer 2014 pieces walked the runway to close the catwalk presentation of Fashion Exchange, there was more than just sartorial exchange at play. While the designer had always been fascinated by the culture, clothing and colours of the Middle East, it was a kind of female entrepreneurial camaraderie that sealed the deal. Like the featured Qatari designers, Emilia wears different hats and faces similar challenges modern women have regardless of culture and location. “One of my biggest challenges has been trying to juggle my time between being a mother, a designer and a business person. I hope I can inspire other new designers to take the plunge, to be bold and to take a chance on your own talents,” she explains. And it was in this inspirational spirit that the designer had agreed to come on board the Fashion Exchange programme. Emilia believes that fashion is one of few unique inspiring industries where women can challenge themselves from different perspectives. “I was so honoured to be asked to participate. It is a great opportunity to transcend distance and culture, and to develop understanding through something we are all familiar with; fashion,” she says. Emilia herself is no stranger to crossing cultures and adapting to new environments. Originally from New Zealand, she had moved to Milan and then London before setting up her business and she acknowledges that though it may be difficult to start out in cities that have less fashion presence, “you just have to seize the moment and give it a go!” And in fashion, she believes, is the culmination of creativity, business sense and a social understanding of the world around us. Emilia Wickstead E-Boutique is now available on www.emiliawickstead.com
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FASHION, MUSEUM A STARRY CAST BY DEBRINA ALIYAH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ABDUL RAHMAN AL BAKER
ON A COOL DOHA WINTER EVENING, THE FASHION CALENDAR OF THE YEAR CAME TO A CLOSE WITH THE SCULPTURAL WORKS OF L’WREN SCOTT, STEPHEN JONES AND WADHA AL HAJRI FORMING THE BACKDROP WHILE THE CATWALK SHONE WITH GLIMMERING ABAYAS.
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It
would seem that Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art was built to be the perfect backdrop for an event as this. The conceptual sculptures, punctuating the courtyard leading to the museum, stood witness as models strutted down the runway in designs that pay homage to the essence of being a woman in Qatar. The power of the abaya has extended beyond just local women; guests of different nationalities graced the event in their own interpretations of the national dress. Fashion Exchange, in its quest to bridge Qatar-UK cultures through fashion, has created a ripple inside Qatar itself melding perhaps the most important relationship of all; between the locals and expats. The runway presentation by the headlining Qatari designers, Fatthiya Al Jaber, Elham Al Ansari and Hessa Al Mannai, showcased a collection of works that draws on the style progression of a developing society. Elham’s niche design encompasses the traditional world of an Arab woman while Fatthiya and Hessa’s work represents the rise of the modern abaya. The powerful underlying phenomenon lies within the designers themselves, all strong intellectual entrepreneurs making their mark in the field of business that was once solely dominated by men in this region. The Fashion Exchange programme delves deeply in this context; to promote and encourage more women to excel in fashion entrepreneurship. The participation of designer L’wren Scott and milliner Stephen Jones with their visit to Qatar to share their experiences and anecdotes of venturing into the world of fashion strengthens the educational objective of the programme. The star design duo who have collaborated on many collections presented a public talk at the Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar as well as an archival exhibition at Mathaf during the main event night. Winner of the 2013 British Fashion Council Vogue Fashion Fund award, Nicholas Kirkwood, whose work was also exhibited, has also pledged to mentor and offer internships to design students
The collection of the British designers displayed outside Mathaf, picrured above are Stephen Jones and L’ wren Scott.
Qatari designer Wadha Al Hajri’s Spring Summer Collection, along with glimpses of the British designer’s work
from Qatar as part of the programme. Qatar’s rising design star, Wadha Al Hajri previewed her Spring Summer 2014 collection during the event alongside British fine jewellers Robinson Pelham while Emilia Wickstead closed the runway show with her colourful flouncy dresses from spring. The enigmatic and diverse line-up of designer names on-board this project is not just mere prestigious association, but a founding pathway towards building a solid fashion movement in Qatar. Fashion Exchange is part of the Qatar-UK 2013 Year of Culture program with key participation of Roudha Center for Entrepreneurship and Innovation to facilitate collaborations between emerging and established designers in Qatar and the UK. Trunk shows were held after the event at The Vanity Room and The Closet, both multi-brand boutiques also owned by Qatari female entrepreneurs, where guests and designers had the chance to interact. GLAM was the official media partner of Fashion Exchange, in our initiative to continuously support local and regional talents.
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Models walk the Qatari designers work along with British designer Emilia Wickstead’s colourful flouncy dresses from her spring collection.
Hessa Al Mannai The most established of the three headlining Qatari designers, Hessa has travelled the world showcasing her collections which focuses on Oriental jalabiyas and abayas. She launched her first store thirteen years ago and is a role modern for young Qatari fashion designers. With a keen eye on merging global inspirations, Hessa is looking to collaborate with international designers to create fusion designs. She has recently opened her second store and continues creating looks that are Qatari in silhouettes and motifs but modern in their approach. Hessa is an alumnus of Qatar University.
RESORT 2014 THE RESORT 2014 COLLECTIONS BRING US TO FARAWAY PLACES AS WE FOLLOW THE JOURNEYS OF JETSETTING DESIGNERS IMMORTALISING THEIR MEMORIES IN CREATIONS.
ELIE TAHARI Relaxed yet maintaining a tailored silhouette, Elie Tahari presents his most casual collection to date. The Israeli designer is a favourite in this region, often for his colourful, vivid and attentiongrabbing pieces and yet this collection seems a delicate exception to the rule. Chiffon, lightweight crepe and ultra-thin leather are the fabrics of choice in this mostly black and white collection (with some refreshing green splashes!). We do love the shirt dresses that will flatter and fit any body shapes. With some layering work and the right accessories, we are thinking you could very well wear this to work. Elie Tahari boutique, The Gate Mall.
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BCBG MAX AZRIA At the wildly popular music festival Coachella last year, Lubov Azria hosted the BCBG Beauty Bungalow, allowing guests to get their beauty fixes before heading down to the party. It was also Lubov’s first time at the festival and this collection is a result of that first foray. Bohemian flowing silhouettes, billowing jumpsuits, and vintage floral prints pretty much sums up the DNA of festival fashion. But it is the parallel of the festival goers and the clientele of BCBG Max Azria that really captured Lubov’s attention. The brand designs for a wide variety of women with different perspectives of styles and Coachella, as we all know, is where the world comes together. We highly recommend this for short getaways to Doha’s inland sea, or to neighbouring Muscat. BCBG Max Azria boutique, Villaggio & Landmark Mall.
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KENZO The colours, the prints and the presentation space make up such a happy combination that it is difficult to wipe that smile off our faces. Is it any surprise though that Kenzo’s designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were referencing their hometown California in this collection? Matching suits in stripes, leafy and wavy prints, and solid bright colours present such a strong perspective that we are thinking about spring summer already. The strong masculine lines and cropped jackets are a perfect match for adding that menswear edge to your wardrobe. We say, bring the fun into the boardroom. Kenzo boutique, Porto Arabia.
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MARY KATRANTZOU The designer’s first Resort collection outing is truly a round-the-world experience. Bringing together her signature cuts of fitted skirts, jackets and dresses, she uses prints made from photographs of picturesque travel views. The prints are travel-envy worthy; high-rise buildings of Sao Paulo, a Japanese bridge, an Italian vineyard and the Swiss Alps. The colours of the collection are so vivid that reviewing the pieces felt like a surreal experience itself. We are absolutely sure that these gorgeous pieces will very likely turn into collector’s items that are exhibition display worthy. The Closet boutique, Porto Arabia.
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SONIA RYKIEL Newly appointed artistic director Geraldo da Conceicao conceived a fun, flirty and easygoing story for this collection. The pieces are feminine with a focus on the brand’s signature knits and tank dresses presented in light hues. There is an easy-living kind of vibe to the collection, appealing to the girl inside all of us who just wants to throw everything into the wind and run away. We love the flatform shoes and the oversized totes; an excellent uniform for Doha’s Friday brunches. Sonia Rykiel boutique, Porto Arabia.
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MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Plants and leaves seem to be prints of choice for Resort, as Matthew Williamson gets on board the American outback inspiration wagon. Basing the collection on the landscape of Arizona, the pieces are solidly colourful, be it tees, chiffon gowns, or maxi skirts. All his design DNAs are present, the bejewelled necklines, gem appliquÊs, and the ever fluffy ostrich feathers that seem to score points with the Arabian clients. Other than the brand’s signature shades of blue, a deep rich clay colour of red also features strongly in the collection, just like the desert of Arizona. What we most love is the completeness of the collection with separates and dresses perfect for a new wardrobe. Matthew Williamson boutique, The Gate Mall.
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CELINE We want everything from this collection in our wardrobes. There is just something so right about Phoebe Philo’s design vision even when she is presenting the simplest form of her work, which is the defining factor for Celine’s Resort 2014. There are slightly oversized coats, slouchy pants, and even some fur thrown into the equation. The flat sandals seem to be a mainstay in Celine’s offerings now, not that we are complaining, the brand has made comfort look so chic that dressing up just seems so passé. Celine boutique, Villaggio Mall.
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CATHERINE MALANDRINO This brand, to date, is still one of the best kept fashion secrets in Doha. The boutique has been flying under the radar and is the go-to only for those in the know. The feminine cuts, the easy-to-wear pieces, and the workappropriate designs have made it the preferred brand of choice for the power corporate dressers. The resort collection may be inspired by a short Panama getaway but it is strong enough to carry through into the boardroom. After all, we must take advantage of the everpresent sunshine of this little city. Catherine Malandrino boutique, The Gate Mall.
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EMILIO PUCCI It is all-year tropical weather on the stunning islands of the Seychelles and the Carribean isn’t it? And on such vacations, out with the heels and in with the flat sandals. Pucci’s designer Peter Dundas styled all the pieces with a flat-shoe test. “If it didn’t look good with a flat shoe, it didn’t go in the collection. And no checked-in baggage, either. It’s got to fit into a carry-on, even evening dresses.” Bright bold colours counter the mid-season slump, and don’t be afraid to match separates of different neon shades. The brighter, the better. Emilio Pucci boutique, Villaggio Mall.
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ONE STOP
STYLE BY FIONA MAY
FASHION’S BIGGEST FINDS IN QATAR LIE IN THE MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES THAT ARE CURATED BY STYLE MAKERS WHO HAVE THE EYE FOR DETAIL. FROM QUIRKY HAND BAGS TO TRENDING NAIL COLOURS FROM THE FAR EAST, THESE BOUTIQUES OFFER A PERSONALISED STYLE REFUGE FROM THE STANDARD LABEL OFFERINGS OF SHOPPING MALLS.
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THE CLOSET 7 LA CROISETTE, PORTO ARABIA, THE PEARL-QATAR, TEL. 4410110
Nestled between prestigious couture flagships such as Armani and Chloe, collection-centric multi-brand boutique The Closet is a favourite of the fashion pack of Doha, including the royal family and VIPs too. The light, modern and spacious interiors were exclusively designed for the boutique, and exclusive tailoring services and luxurious treatment is offered to all its clientele. Continuously operating since 2008, The Closet has established itself as one of Qatar’s leading authorities in fashion, carrying highly sought after international brands such as Peter Pilotto, Naeem Khan, Marchesa and Mary Katranzou. New to the boutique for 2014 are collections from Nicholas Kirkwood, Giambatista Valli, Sophia Webster and Alessandra Rich.
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THE VANITY ROOM
7 LA CROISETTE, PORTO ARABIA, THE PEARL-QATAR, TEL. 44953876 EXT. 3299
Located in the luxurious setting of The Pearl-Qatar, The Vanity Room is a “concept boutique� which means its brand mix changes seasonally. The boutique caters to women of all shapes and sizes, with an aim to pamper and make clients feel gorgeous on a daily basis. The Vanity Room offers all types of looks, from evening wear to beach wear, and from the hip and bohemian to the latest trends. Anchor labels carried by the boutique include Tibi, Camilla and Marc, Markus Lupfer and Sass & Bide. The brick and wood warehouse-like interiors are reminiscent of multi-brand concept stores in New York City and Los Angeles, with a comfy seating area in the middle where you can take a break from all that shopping. The New Year will bring new brands to the store such as J Brand, Carven and MSGM.
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D’NA
20 LA CROISETTE, PORTO ARABIA, THE PEARL-QATAR, TEL. 40027911
D’NA Doha is the sister boutique of the original D’NA concept store in Riyadh, a carefully curated collection of designer pieces handpicked by the store’s owner, Princess Deema Aljuhani Abdulaziz. The theme of the store is similar to that of the one in Riyadh, with the concept of it being like a jewellery box, concentrating on what is inside rather than what is outside, and inspired by Japanese light boxes. The outside façade comes from Deema’s travels to an art space in the Dashanzi Art District in Beijing. D’NA is a members-only store, and offers bespoke services such as placing direct orders for clients and the ability to close the store for a client free-of-charge so that they can have a private shopping experience. The store currently carries a mix of regional and international brands such as Lulwa Al Amin, Haider Ackermann, Jason Wu, Osman and Victoria Beckham, and New Year’s collections will be flying in from the likes of Spanish label Delpozo, swimwear line Lisa Marie Fernandez and shoe line Aquazzura.
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BACK TO
LIFE BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
AT THE RECENT ART CONSERVATION CONFERENCE IN QATAR, THERE WAS ONE OBJECT THAT CREATED QUITE A BUZZ AMONG LOCAL FASHION ENTHUSIASTS. A CERTAIN FIFTIES DIOR ZEMÁIRE DRESS THAT WAS SHOWN IN A PERIOD COUTURE EXHIBITION IN THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM IN 1997 HEADLINED THE CONFERENCE IN TEXTILE RESTORATION. THE DRESS, WITH AN INTRIGUING HISTORY, WAS ONE OF THE LANDMARK PIECES OF CHRISTIAN DIOR’S WORK MAKING IT AN IMPORTANT MILESTONE IN FASHION HISTORY. V&A’S SENIOR TEXTILE CONSERVATOR, FRANCES HARTOG, TALKS TO GLAM ABOUT THE UNIQUE RESTORATION PROCESS TO BRING THIS DRESS BACK TO ITS ORIGINAL GLORY.
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It is considered to be Dior’s most historically inspired piece and a departure from his more familiar avant-garde work.
Tell us about the unique story behind the dress. Does the museum know who last owned it? The original costume was shown in Dior’s 1954 Winter Collection but this version of the “Zemire” design differs quite considerably from the original in both colour and the fabric used. It was commissioned by the wife of a leading British textile manufacturer, to showcase his new semi synthetic fabric. Little else is known about the history of the dress until it turned up in a Paris auction, at which time it was said to have been found in a cellar close to the Seine and possibly worn for fancy dress. It was certainly heavily water stained and the skirt had been clumsily altered – but who the final owner was, I do not know.
Why is this dress such an important landmark in fashion history? This costume was the star piece of the ‘54 Winter/Autumn Collection and was showcased at Blenheim Palace to an audience that included Princess Margaret. It is considered to be Dior’s most historically inspired piece and a departure from his more familiar avant-garde work.
Tell us about the conservation process undertaken to restore this dress. How long did it take? The real difficulty was the level of soiling; it was extremely dirty. A cleaning method needed to be found that was both safe for the object and would give a satisfactory result. The outer fabric was an early semi synthetic and it was not known how it would react to water. Both the outer fabric and its silk lining had problematic dyes. A considerable amount of testing was necessary before a successful washing process was carried out. Another major element was the reshaping of the skirt; the original complex pleating had been removed and needed reinstating which involved some detective work. The whole treatment, including mounting the costume for display, took 183 hours. In restoring this dress, did you discover anything unique; tailoring, marks or any special elements that could be tied to the history of the dress, history of the time it was made, or perhaps the journey the dress had been through? The labels sewn into the bodice were the most intriguing; they
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were roughly tacked in. One was a Dior label but because the stitching holding it was obviously not original, at first it cast doubt on the authenticity of the piece. The second label was hand written on cotton tape and bore the name ‘Agota Sekers’. Research established that she was the wife of the textile manufacturer Miki Sekers which in turn led to the identification of the fabric as the early semi-synthetic, cellulose acetate. Eventually contact was made with the Sekers family, who donated the swatch book that features the cellulose acetate used to create this version of “Zemire”. In your work, what are the deciding elements in whether you choose to restore a dress, or not? Under what conditions do you decide that it can be maintained, or not? Our work programme is driven by the demands of display; whether it be for a gallery, a temporary exhibition, a small display or a loan to another institution - it is very rare we work on anything from store that is not required for imminent display. When a piece is chosen to be exhibited, we assess what work is necessary to make it safe for display. We also consult with the curator and designers regarding their requirements, before finalising a treatment. Each textile is different and has different demands but by their nature they are all organic and degrade with time; it is our job to preserve them for as long as possible whilst keeping them accessible.
Before restoration work After restoration work
Throughout your career, what have been some of the most exciting items that you have conserved? This is a difficult question as each object has its own challenges and sometimes it is the treatment process that is fascinating rather than the object itself. I have worked on many projects since arriving at the V&A and it would be difficult to single one out. But one of the more recent was the preparation of textiles for the 7 new Medieval & Renaissance Galleries which opened at the V&A at the end of 2011. There were 95 textiles in total and they were mostly extremely fragile. They ranged from an Egyptian woman’s hair net dating from the 8th century, to a 15th Century European tapestry measuring 4.5 x 7m - the treatment of which took nearly 4000 hours. When the galleries opened and all the textiles were safely on display, there was a tremendous sense of achievement.
Our work programme is driven by the demands of display
In the conservation of textile; you must be very familiar with the evolution of fabric and textile making throughout time. What do you think are some important developments that have happened in the art of fabric and dressmaking in your observations? From the late 19th Century when fabrics were first developed from regenerated cellulose, through to the production of the synthetics in the mid 20th Century, to the present ‘techno fabrics’; progression in the manufacture of new textiles has been non-stop. For the centuries before, fabrics were woven from natural fibres and it was the fashions that changed dramatically. Now, the evolution of dressmaking has become more about the use of these new materials and the cross over between art and tailoring, than distinct developments in the process of dressmaking.
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MODEL OF THE MONTH Shot by Rob Altamirano Makeup and Hair by Blanca Montenegro
BENJAMIN HALL Ben Hall made the move to Qatar just a couple of months ago, and when he’s not modelling, he is a Lead Project Planner for an English oil company here. The 27-year-old Western Australian native has lived pretty much everywhere, from South East Asia, to Ireland and Canada. He is signed under Elite Model Management Toronto, and while he is here he is represented by Trinity Talent Qatar. LATE BLOOMER “I decided to seriously pursue modelling when I was 25, which is pretty late by normal standards. I was very driven and focused to succeed in my business career before realising my true passion and calling in my life, which is modelling and acting.“ WORK “I’ve done runway showings for Gucci and Versace during my time in Kuala Lumpur, and also being in GLAM magazine Malaysia. I want to get more modelling experience under my belt and further my acting career.” INSPIRATION “I’m heavily inspired by French and Western European styles. Roberto Cavalli is my favourite designer. I hope to work for him one day!” ADVICE “I want to tell aspiring models to trust their instincts and not to be afraid of the word no. In this business we face rejection every day. That’s pretty much the biggest hurdle. Once you get over that fear, everything gets a lot easier. Fear is an illusion.”
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PAINTING A NEW CANVAS BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
“PAINT THE WALLS INSIDE OF ME, WITH EVERYTHING I LONG TO SEE FREE YOUR MIND IN ECSTASY, ENTRANCED IN ALL BUT FANTASY.”- PAINT
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AT
the onset, I have my doubts about a singer from Qatar, someone singing in English. Would it be any good? Listening to a few lines from one of her songs, Confined, quickly gets me hooked. The voice on the CD is melancholic and deeply personal. “When your ground is shaken, within yourself you’re taken; You’re taken back to another place.” It is clear. Dana Al Fardan isn’t the cliché’d rockstar. Born to one of the most influential families in Qatar, she has given up her passion of jewellery design in the pursuit of music - a lifelong dream. With no formal training, Dana has been playing music and writing songs for as long as she can remember. She began her musical journey on the piano, where she started writing and playing her own nursery rhymes to sing to her younger sister, Hind. Dana takes her inspiration from everything around her - her family, culture, friends and most importantly, her six-month-old daughter, Layla - to whom the debut album is dedicated. “The album came together when I was going to have a baby. It was a point in my life where I felt invincible,” says Dana. “If you can handle life growing inside of you, you can do anything. We women are a force to be reckoned with.”
“I’m a Qatari woman and I love the traditional look of the long jalabiyas with intricate embroidery work. This is part of my heritage which makes me who I am. ”
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“At first I hadn’t intended to sing the album. My producers were the ones convinced about it and said since I sang the voice notes, I could give it a go,” explains Dana. “I’m not the best singer by any stretch of the imagination,” she says humbly. “But my music comes from such a raw and organic place that it almost seem like I would be the only one to bring authenticity to the words because I have felt them.” The album was recorded in London by Trip Tik Management and supported by top UK musicians including Seye Adelekan (Paloma Faith), Pete Cherry (Beyonce) and Izzi Dunn (Gorillaz). According to the singer, her daughter Layla responds to the music really well. “I sing the track Brave New World to my daughter all the time. The song Layla is an instrumental piece which I play for her before she goes to sleep.” After completing a bachelor’s degree in International Relations from the American University of Sharjah, Dana decided to
“Today women in Qatar have received unprecedented support to succeed in every field. Sheikha Moza bint Nasser and Sheikha Mayassa Al Thani have played a huge role in encouraging Arab women to join the public sphere.” pursue a degree in Gemology, mainly to follow a career in her family’s jewellery business. “I was always going to join my family business, it has always a part of our lives, and jewellery was something I was able to relate to and was passionate about. I enjoy spending time traveling with my
dad; we have met many interesting people and made lifelong friends in the industry, however my lifelong passion for music has always been in mind and it was something that I knew I wanted to pursue.” Hooked on musicals at a very early age, Dana wouldn’t miss a chance to watch a
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Broadway or theatre show. “When I was a child, my mother used to take us to shows all the time during our visits to London. My sisters and I were always performing musicals at home,” recalls Dana, having been fascinated with shows like Starlight Express, Phantom of the Opera, Les Miserables and Wicked. “I think I must have seen Wicked nine times,” she says. “We live in a highly competitive arena. Educational and job standards have gone up and a lot of people are so busy competing that they aren’t looking inward and trying to improve on themselves. We compose ourselves in different layers, that’s why the album is called Paint,” she explains. “Paint the walls inside of me, with everything I long to see Free your mind in ecstasy, entranced in all but fantasy.” Dana adds, “I love Arab philosophy because it questions your concept of the mind, soul and what constitutes the individual. The Freudian theory of the
identity, superego and ego, also structured the platform on which those songs were written.” Style quotient Being a musician and someone closely associated with the fashion arena, style is something that comes naturally to Dana. She says, “I’ve always had a very boho-chic approach to things. Helmut Lang is one of my favourite designers.” Acutely conscious of her roots, Dana says, “I’m a Qatari woman and I love the traditional look of the long jalabiyas with intricate embroidery work. This is part of my heritage which makes me who I am. It is a strong expression of my personality.” When it comes to role models, Dana is most passionate. “Today women in Qatar have received unprecedented support to succeed in every field, because of the encouragement given by the country. We are atheletes, poets, writers, business women and singers. That is only because our country is encouraging us and giving
us a solid platform on which to stand. HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser and HE Sheikha Mayassa Al Thani have played a huge role in encouraging Arab women.” Her musical influences include bands such as Aerosmith, Red Hot Chili Peppers and pop icons such as Michael Jackson and eclectic sounds such as Bedouin Soundclash. “My objective in Qatar is to get more actively involved in building the community. I’d like to help people to compose music, perhaps set up a few workshops and I will be working with them one-on-one. So that when I have performances they will open for one or two songs,” says Dana who also recently perfomed live in front of a Doha audience. I ask if she is the first person in Qatar singing in English. Dana nods in agreement and adds that, “It was never something I dwelled on. My writing and reading took a stronger form in English which is why the songs are in that language.”
RIDING INTO FASHION BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
GLAM PUTS THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE AMBASSADOR OF JAEGER LE COULTRE, EDWINA TOPS ALEXANDER, AN EQUESTRIAN SHOW JUMPER FOR WHOM WINNING IS ALMOST A HABIT.
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aying tribute to women, we would like to shine a light on a sport where both genders compete equally, and where the current world champion is a woman. It is a well-deserved plaudit for equestrian show jumper Edwina Tops Alexander, who has won the Global Champion Tour twice. It is not difficult to see that equestrian is a sport dominated by men, and hardly a secret that it is one that is exclusive, often a game for the privileged. When Edwina broke the gender dominance, she also brought a refreshing perspective to the equestrian world. She did not come from a family who were connected to horses. She had grown up in Sydney, a big city in a country that dims in comparison to Europe in equestrian excellence. It was truly a mark of unprecedented talent. But Edwina had never considered this as a disadvantage, although there was much perseverance on her part to keep riding. “I walked into this sport without thinking too much about it. Of course, I see people around me in the sport who have families involved and family influence, and the experience does help,” she related. “I learnt it my way. It’s different but to me when you set your mind on it, there are ways to get there.” She was the first Australian to make the final of the individual jumping competition at the World Equestrian Games in 2006 and has been a trailblazer for Australia in the last two Olympics. Since 2006, Edwina has won Grand Prix shows in major equestrian locations around the world including Brussels, London, Cannes, Geneva and of course, Doha. Edwina’s most prolific horse, Itot Du Chateau, is a seventeen-year-old gelding that has been a big part of her equestrian journey. “When I first rode him, I knew that there was something special, a bond between us,” she says. “We have been through a lot, and this is a very important time now for Itot. At this age, it is essential to maintain his fitness. Just like humans, we can’t
SPOTLIGHT / 63 just wake up one day when we are fifty-years-old and decide to be fit.” Qatar, a rising name in the equestrian world, is no new land to Edwina. She has been in and out of Doha in the last couple of years, competing at the Al Shaqab Equestrian Center as well as training budding show jumpers. “Al Shaqab is an incredible facility. I have never seen anything like that before and it is a real platform to promote the sport in this part of the world.” Edwina’s husband Jan Tops, another illustrious rider, has been training the Qatar team and Edwina has been in discussions with local partners to promote the sport among local women. “Obviously there are rules to respect, but we have had very positive discussions and maybe sometime later in my career, this is definitely something I can see myself doing,” she says. And yet, with all the underlying strength and determination of a relentless warrior, Edwina is a picturesque figure blessed with a youthful charm. Dressed in a mesh white blouse with a flowerappliquéd headband, she spoke on the importance of maintaining femininity for female athletes. “For women in sport, femininity can be easily lost and I really believe you have to make an effort to keep it,” she explained. Within the equestrian world itself, Edwina has carved her own style realm, being appointed an ambassador for Jaeger LeCoultre as well as a collaboration stint with Gucci. Jaeger Le Coultre has had a long relationship with the equestrian world, and its iconic Reverso watch seems a story that just fits with Edwina’s duality in femininity and strength. “I enjoy fashion a lot, I enjoy taking care of myself, I think when you make an effort, you look good and that makes you feel good,” she said. Not one to obsess over runway shows or the latest fashion hit, Edwina prefers the subtlety of classic numbers and has no qualms wearing the same outfits twice. “I do admire the fashion world, I love going to shows and reading magazines. It is interesting to see how fashion moves and evolves, but I am all for simplicity and comfort with a little sportiness thrown into it.” Edwina was among the special guests present in Doha to celebrate the World Breeding Federation of Sport Horses. Jaeger LeCoultre awarded three prizes to three distinguished horse breeders in a special dinner attended by Princess Benedikt of Denmark, the president of the federation.
“For women in sport, femininity can be easily lost and I really believe you have to make an effort to keep it,”
UNMISTAKABLE
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MAYA BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
e at Glam have always believed that fashion bridges cultural divides. Another website that proves the point more succinctly is Maya’s Closet. The online boutique set up in the UK showcases clothing by some of the most exciting fashion designers from
across the Middle East. In an intimate interview, Sawsan Ghanem, owner and founder of Maya’s Closet tells us how the website grew from an idea. Sawsan was voted Arab Entrepreneur of the Year in 2011 and her passion for her work is evident in the success it has already achieved. Her online store features an assortment of eclectic and
unique pieces including clothing, accessories and handbags in addition to a line for children and babies. Having picked the best items from each designers’ range, Maya’s Closet offers a guided shopping experience that enables visitors from the West to select and purchase items, without ever having to step on a plane. Through the portal one can select coveted designs by Leila Al Marashi of Sugar Vintage, Hanan Nader Abedini of NimNim, Zeina Abou Chabaan of Palestyle and Lulwa Al Almin, to name but a few. These trend-setting designers are not just grabbing the attention of their home-crowd but their hand-made and bespoke designs are being picked up by celebrities including British actress and model Lily Cole, who chose Palestyle for one of her red carpet appearances.
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When you first began this project what were the thoughts running through your mind? I have always had a great appreciation for fashion, original pieces, unusual designs and people with a unique sense of personal style. I enjoy monitoring the direction of up and coming designers, their development and career growth. Their creativity is one of the things that has always inspired me. I spent a lot of time in London and ever since I can remember, I have always been fascinated and in awe of the diversity in personal style and fashion I saw there - as a result of people-watching which I still love doing. The city is full of hidden vintage stores, quirky boutiques, hidden gems and markets. The unconventional style that people have in London is refreshing, mixing old and new, and walking proud no matter how wacky they look. It’s great to see people that are not scared of stepping out of the mainstream and express themselves with something so personal as style. In January 2012, I felt compelled to do something about the ideas that had been floating around in my head for several years. I put together my business plan for Maya’s Closet, the vision, the look and feel, target audience, the designers I admired and inspired me every day and believed would be well-received both on their home turf and abroad.
Maya’s Closet is the culmination of an aspiration, a dream come true. It is not just a trendy online fashion store.
Nine months and a great deal of hard work, long hours and late nights later Maya’s Closet was born. The site was launched in London’s Covent Garden in September 2013, through a pop up store concept for the day. It was so much fun, to meet interesting people, including a few bloggers and journalists who had some interesting questions for me through which I gained truly valuable insights. What has been the learning curve of setting up your own e-commerce site? Building an e-commerce site is not an easy feat by any means and one that does justice to the type of fashion and designers it’s going to carry is even tougher. It was a huge learning curve for me and still is over a year on, as we are constantly adapting and tweaking it to ensure we provide our customers with a vibrant and exciting online shopping experience. An online boutique they want to visit, discover and take away some of its gems with them. Feedback to date from fashion designers, bloggers, media, circle of friends and my business network has been great both here and in London. This has made the tough, yet totally amazing journey so worthwhile...it’s made me even more determined to make a success of it and ensure that our talented fashion designers in the Middle East have a successful portal to show off their stunning work to those who would appreciate them beyond our market teamed up with a person who is passionate about them. Maya’s Closet is the culmination of an aspiration, a dream come true. It is not just a trendy online fashion store. It’s a home for a carefully selected range of cutting-edge designers - from across the Middle East region - their innovative, stylish and original fashion with a cultural flavour. It is as timeless as it is trendy. It’s a mélange of the western ideas and concepts of fashion and the exotic, mysticism of the Middle East, it’s a closet full of unique fashion pieces and designed to be an online fashion destination for those of us who like the edgy, look for the trendy and truly want to be
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Celebrating GLAM’s recent 6th anniversary, Maya Closet picks six of its favourite finds 1 Sugar Vintage - Ashwarya Vintage Skull top - original and a WOW piece that you just throw on and feel a million dollars. ● 2 J Walking in Style Flower top - effortless for day or night wear. ● 3 Fyunka - Red ‘Channel’ handbag - fashionable, and fun. ● 4 Hilda Maha - pencil skirts - effortlessly stylish, beautifully cut and feminine (and extra bonus: timeless) ● 5 MarMar ‘3s not a crowd’ ring - edgy, funky and trendy. ● 6 Palestyle - Orange leather bag - unique colour, beautiful design and exclusive to Maya’s Closet. ●
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different. It’s a portal to the wonderful world of fashion for young and trendy women who dare to be different. All these women are reflected in the fashion, the diversity of designs and creativity seen here in Maya’s Closet. The fashion here is as timeless as the women who will buy and wear it.
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escribe someone who in your opinion is the epitome of style? I admire Queen Rania of Jordan for her effortless and timeless sense of style that is all about class and sophistication and Audrey Tautou, who always looks extremely feminine and stylish. How has the website grown since it first began? What are some of the immediate plans you have for customers? Maya’s Closet has evolved in the same way that many online businesses do. We are constantly tweaking the site as we go along to ensure that our customers are availed of a visually attractive site that is easy to navigate and secure to complete purchases on. At the end of the day, online shopping needs to be a pleasure, not a pain and we look into making it as enjoyable an experience as possible. We also work with our dedicated designers to develop fun graphics and designs that showcase upcoming trends. In addition, our online analytics help us determine the way customers are viewing the site and direct us to any issues so that they can be looked into. Most importantly, the feedback we receive directly from our customers helps us to create a more fun and interactive e-commerce site. Middle Eastern designers have to often compete with more established international brands. What is your take on this? The Middle East boasts extremely talented, edgy fashion designers that have the ability and skills to compete on the international stage. There is great potential for them to vie for the attention of fashion lovers everywhere as there are many who look for original looks that are individualistic versus the common go-to international brands. There is
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importantly, the feedback we receive directly from our customers helps us to create a more fun and interactive e-commerce site. a movement towards a more individual style of dressing, breaking away from the cookie cutter mould. Up and coming designers have fresh ideas, unique styles and detailed pieces that interest people and support their hunger for personalised and fresh looks. Talking from our experience to date with Maya’s Closet, we have had customers from across Europe, America, Canada and Australia, and we are getting some great feedback on the pieces we carry on the site. Describe some of your favourite Arab designers and why they make the cut according to you. PALESTYLE - Zeina Abou Chaaban (for her cultural and humanitarian touch and causes). TOUJOURI - Lama El Moatassem (for the glamorous designs). KAGE - fusion of vintage and contemporary designs in an effortless way. SUGAR VINTAGE - Leila Al Marashi (her original approach to vintage with a fun twist - collectable pieces that are bound to get you lots of attention). ZAYAN THE LABEL - Zayan Ghandour - fun, lovely fabrics, quirky and feminine. ESSA - Essa Bhagoorwala - gorgeous fabrics, beautiful silhouettes and timeless. For more fabulous fashion inspiration visit www.mayas-closet.com
KIMONO KAFTAN, MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, QR5,895.
(Shoes, Stylist’s Own)
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ARTISTIC
STYLE BE BOLD, BE COLOURFUL, BE VIVACIOUS. THE NEW YEAR BEGS FOR AN ALL NEW PERSPECTIVE ON BRIGHT SHADES, TEXTURES, AND STARK SILHOUETTES. LET NEW RESOLUTIONS GUIDE AN ALL NEW POWER ARTISTIC STYLE.
Fashion Styling: Debrina Aliyah Photography: Angel Mallari Hair & Make Up: Eric Pascual from Frank Provost Model: Angelique Lange Shoot Coordinator: Rob Altamirano All Items Available from Salam Studio & Stores and The Gate Mall Shot on location at the Calligraffiti project wall in the car park of The Gate Mall.
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RUFFLED SHIRT DRESS, GIVENCHY, QR17,950.
(Shoes, Stylist’s Own)
72 \ FASHION BLACK AND GOLD COAT, TEMPERLEY LONDON, QR7,350. BLACK AND GOLD SKIRT, TEMPERLEY LONDON, QR3,250. REFLECTIVE SUNGLASSES, RAY BAN, QR845.
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TUBE DRESS, MISSONI, QR19,450.
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PRINTED RED DRESS, MOSCHINO, QR3,795.
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CALLIGRAFFITI LOVE Looming at the corner of The Gate Mall’s car park is a majestic wall spray painted with colours and Arabic words, although no vandalism has been at play. Instead, the graffiti shares the same design strand of a project that we have come to be familiar with, the Calligraffiti walls of the Salwa Road tunnel. In a collaborative effort between The Gate and Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar (VCUQ ), the art and graphic design students of the school had the chance to work with the world-famous Calligraffiti artist El Seed to produce the unique artworks now adorning the walls of the mall’s car park. The students, through several workshops and site visits to the Salwa Road tunnel, learnt about the works of El Seed before embarking on this project with him. The design ideas were conceptualised so well by the students that the judging panel had a tough time narrowing down to the final three designs to be used. “I was impressed and pleasantly surprised by the quality of the work and the talent of the students because none of them have had any experience in street art before. The final work on the walls is almost identical to their original sketches,” said El Seed who supervised and directed the artistic part of the project. The final three artworks are titled ‘Welcome & Park Your Car’, ‘Old is Gold’, and ‘Illusion Vs Reality’. “We believe that we have given the students an opportunity to learn a new skill, a new perspective at looking at art and expressing their opinions in style,” said Isabella Ibrahim, the marketing and PR executive of The Gate Mall.
“Welcome” & “Park the Car”- Traditional works used in Qatari culture that depict genuine hospitality and generosity.
“Illusion Vs Reality” - The concept revolves around the Pablo Picasso quote that “Everything that you can imagine is real.”
“Old is Gold” – A traditional proverb suggesting that our past is a precious part of who we are.
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NEW YEAR, NEW WARDROBE BY FIONA MAY
MAKE ORGANISING YOUR WARDROBE ONE OF YOUR NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS
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TYPICAL NEW YEAR’S resolutions include losing weight, joining a gym and giving up smoking, but how many of us resolve to declutter and revamp our wardrobes? The New Year is the perfect time to give your wardrobe a good clean out, discover that long-lost party top that had mysteriously disappeared months ago, bring that little black dress back to life, and bin that tatty pair of jeans that has more y rips and tears in them than denim. A disorganised and over-packed wardrobe can be overwhelming and even anxietyinducing if every time you need to find one item of clothing you feel like you are going on Mission Impossible. Clearing it up and cleaning it out will give you peace of mind, and the incentive to start the New Year stylishly. But how should you go about doing it?
wardrobe.
Make it a date De-cluttering your wardrobe is one of those tasks you tend to keep putting off, so make it a date. Instead of lounging about all Saturday in your pajamas doing nothing, make that Saturday the day to sort out your
Small solutions Free up more wardrobe space and get even more organised by investing in a few little extras which will also brighten up your room, such as shoe racks, jewelry holders and scarf holders, and ottomans and chests.
You could separate everything according to the type of clothing, hanging dresses together, jackets together, skirts together etc.
Sort into piles Sort all your clothes, shoes, bags and accessories into organized piles. Make those piles “keep,” “throw away” and “sell or give away.” Items in poor condition need to be thrown away, while items which you have not worn in months but are in good condition, or which you recently bought on an impulse buy but plan to never use, should be either sold or donated to charity. Mix and match Once you have figured out which items you are going to keep, de-clutter even further by looking at the pieces you have left and seeing if they mix and match. Think about your current personal style and lifestyle, or the look you want to portray, then critically look at your clothes and ask yourself whether or not they fit the picture. Organise your essentials Now that you have gathered all your keepers, it is time to organise them and get them ready to go back into your wardrobe. There are a number of ways you can do this so that your wardrobe is both organised and aesthetically pleasing. You could separate everything according to the type of clothing, hanging dresses together, jackets together, skirts together etc. Or you could organise your wardrobe according to what kind of occasion they are fit for – work wear together, casual wear together, party wear together etc. You may want to make special sections for denim and for knit wear and colour code your pieces.
ASK A STYLIST If the task of de-cluttering and revamping your wardrobe is too overwhelming, you may want to consult a stylist. Glam asked Doha-based stylist Fatma Ghanem and Jeddah-based stylist Dareen Alyawar for some wardrobe revamping advice.
FATMA GHANEM
DAREEN ALYAWAR
How should we go about de-cluttering our wardrobes? “The fun part about clothes is that no one has exactly the same wardrobe. We all have different lives and require different types of apparel. I organise clothes by colour, it looks more organised.”
How should we go about de-cluttering our wardrobes? “Always keep the coming season’s trends in mind while decluttering your wardrobe.”
How should we revamp old pieces? “Convert anything into headwear! You can convert almost anything into a headband or headscarf, so think twice before tossing something out. Whether it’s an old shirt, t-shirt or even a dress, you can chop them to the length you want and even add some embellishments or tie-dye them!” What should we be keeping? “White shirts, denim jackets, black pants, leather shopping bags and beige coloured heels.” What should we be throwing out? “I don’t agree with throwing things out. There is always a time when things will be back in fashion.”
How should we revamp old pieces? “Add new details to old pieces, such as a scarf, printed piece, jacket or cardigan. Accessories play a big part in transforming any look, like necklaces, brooches, belts and earrings.” What should we be keeping? “Lace pieces, white shirts, metallic skirts and leather pants.” What should we be throwing out? “I actually never throw anything out, I believe that I will always need them again, so if they are in good condition, don’t throw them out, but instead recycle them.”
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THE CLUMSY CHIC
THE CLUMSY CHIC BLOG, BEST DESCRIBED AS QUIRKY AND FUN, IS A BREATH OF FRESH AIR IN QATAR’S FASHION BLOGOSPHERE, PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE PERSONAL STYLE OF KAREN NICOLET.
KAREN NICOLET MARKETING, DOHA FILM INSTITUTE A long time resident of this desert city, Karen has found love and life as she watches Doha progress into a mega city. We love little snippets of her style that she shares including cartoon socks and DIY tutorials for simple home fixes.
WHEN I AM NOT BLOGGING, my job is promoting films in our local festivals and year-round screenings to local audiences as well as at international film festivals like Cannes and Berlinale. CLUMSY CHIC started as an exercise to keep me motivated and creatively stimulated at work by doing the little things that make me happy. My blog has become a creative outlet and a reminder to celebrate all things I’m passionate about which is fashion, food, travel and beauty. It is also a personal endeavour to
maintain a professional looking site and to blog consistently for almost 2 years now. It hasn’t been easy especially with a full-time job but it’s been a rewarding experience.
MY PERSONAL STYLE is really clumsy chic! I’m chic in the sense that I pick clothes based on the cut, structure, fabric and how it fits with my body but I’m clumsy in the way I put things together. It’s never serious and I like to throw in an unexpected detail in anything I wear. I think it’s nice to be aware of the latest fashion and be able to experiment and try on different trends but it’s important to make it your own, that’s personal style for me! THE OLSEN TWINS have been my fashion inspiration ever since they started their clothing line The Row. I also have a petite frame and it really forced me to learn the importance of cuts and investing in good quality pieces like a black blazer (a staple in every girl’s wardrobe). I’ve also been gravitating towards Parisian women and trying to nail the laissez-faire approach to fashion.
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03 05 1 I was obsessed with Saint Laurent’s grunge ●
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and plaid revival during Fall but wanted to find an authentic vintage plaid shirt to give it a rock n’ roll edge. 2 My outfit revolves around classic basic pieces ● like this silk shirt and boyfriend jeans. I jazz it up with a classic Chanel bag and red lippy. 3 Denim and stripes are one of those fail-safe ● outfit combinations. Keep it fresh by adding a pop of colour and metallic detailing. 4 It was such a lovely day at the Museum of ● Islamic Art, it felt like I’m on summer vacation in October 5 My take on office chic. I love a good suit and ● have been pairing it with slip on sneakers.
GLAM / BEAUTY
JANUARY 2014
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The Grammy-Award winning singer launches her latest fragrance, Rogue by Rihanna.
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We love the super shiny Color Adapt Gloss that adjusts to the pH of the lips and delivers high-gloss glam. This one-of-a-kind, yummy flavoured lip gloss is made with a complex of soothing, hydrating properties.
The singer exudes strength, femininity and mischief conveyed to her fans through music, unpredictable fashion choices, memorable unapologetic performances, through her new fragrance.
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Try the Volumetry shampoo from Loreal for a real push up effect, used in salons, for fine hair. Hair is magnified by an unequalled volume and shine.
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The perfect complement to a dramatic red lip or a sultry smokey eye, Bobbi Brown nail lacquers polish off your look, making you glam from head to toe. Available in shades called Siren Red and Tuxedo Black.
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Sephora’s iconic bubble bath and shower gel takes on a celestial air. Sophisticated minimalism makes this elegant bottle a must-have for every bathroom.
A new generation cream-to-powder enriches the range of Bourjois eyeshadows. Fine and silky, this gentle cream transforms into powder when in contact with skin, offering exceptional blending quality. We like the metallic khaki effect embellished with golden tints.
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The ever so light body powder from Bottega Veneta is the ultimate in luxury with gold micro-particles providing a discreet touch of fragrance to the skin and a shimmering, luminous veil. It comes in an elegant box with soft puff for easy application.
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Californian nail lacquer brand OPI renowned for its heavily pigmented shades, exceptional formula and iconic names, is now offering its collection of international best-selling products to the fashion hungry Middle East market. Barefoot in Barcelona is one of our favourites.
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This BB cream by Bassim Fattouh comes in two lush shades. Long lasting and lightweight, it brightens, reduces redness, erases imperfections, and minimises oil build-up. The result is a gorgeous complexion with a touch of natural glamour.
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An adorable mini-fragrance that encases the addictive floral of the eau de parfum created by Michel Almairac, See by Chloe is this month’s must have.
GLAM / BEAUTY
JANUARY 2014
SPICE UP THE SEASON The launch of a few special-edition items from The Body Shop will spice up the holidays. Evoking the heart-warming spirit of this season, these decadent delights are bursting with natural ingredients, sumptuous textures and the gorgeous gourmand scents: zingy Ginger Sparkle; fruity Cranberry Joy; and indulgent Vanilla Bliss. “Take comfort in knowing that a gift from The Body Shop helps spread joy far and wide. As a Brand, we encourage and take concrete actions to help others, through our Campaigns, our commitment to animal welfare, our endeavour to protect the planet and our Community Fair Trade programme, which helps to enrich the lives of some 300,000 people living in marginalised communities around the world. Eighty percent of our products contain one or more Community Fair Trade ingredients. We call this Beauty with Heart!� said Brett Lilley - Business Manager at The Body Shop.
DECADENT LIKE CHOCOLATE Imagine bittersweet chocolate and ripe raspberries - that’s the inspiration behind Bobbi Brown’s Rich Chocolate collection. Super-saturated shades of black-infused brown give eyes an unexpected alluring softness. The perfect complement to this standout eye is a touch of rosy, just-pinched colour on cheeks and lips. Rich, deep and dense, chocolate is your new go-to hue this season.
COLOUR ME PRETTY Sephora keeps the focus on colour with its new expanded nail polish line. This collection of 29 shades is a rainbow of contrasts: from timeless classics (nude beige, flesh pink, and aubergine) to emerald green. This Fall’s signature shade, not to mention a must-have palette of grey shades to treat nails to the latest hot-off-the-runway trends. The sleek new ergonomically designed miniature bottle fits perfectly between two fingers to ensure polish goes on easily and in no time at all. A complete line of 81 colours to collect, mix and match to one’s heart’s content. Classics and new must-haves to keep every fingertip happy.
Courtesy Relax News
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BRAND NEW YOU BY JULIE DE BRITTO
DETOX IS THE WORD FOR JANUARY. IT IS THE BEGINNING OF A NEW YEAR FOR ALL OF US AND WE NEED THIS MONTH TO GET OURSELVES READY FOR THE YEAR AHEAD. IT’S A TIME FOR RENEWAL AND IT’S TIME TO BEGIN 2014 FEELING REFRESHED, RE-ENERGIZED AND READY FOR ALL THE UPCOMING CHALLENGES THE YEAR WILL BRING.
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Let’s
get our minds and bodies ready! Both need renewal, both are affected by our choice of lifestyle, diet, and emotional state. The body can renew itself but it needs help, you need inner harmony. As you kick off 2014, forget about the big resolution that might not happen and instead, commit to some small changes. Let me guide you through a list of small but meaningful steps for a better lifestyle. Meditation When it comes to detoxing the mind, the best thing I’ve tried so far is meditation. It really does help to clear your mind and it’s important to concentrate only on yourself for a while, it is not easy but with some simple tricks everyone can do it. You can begin with just five minutes, place yourself in a quiet, tidy and relaxing environment, sit or lie down whatever position is most comfortable and close your eyes. I suggest you use something to help you concentrate and stop your thoughts such as focusing on your breathing, listening to meditation music, light a scented candle or incense and focus on the smell, picturing yourself in a quiet place you love such as the beach, a waterfall, or the top of a mountain. What works for me is having a beaded necklace in my hand and counting the beads one by one. I am one of those people that will never stop thinking, but at least by focusing for even five minutes on counting beads with my eyes closed really helps me to forget everything else and afterwards I feel
Meditation is great because you can do it anywhere, anytime. And you’ll see, it’s like everything else, time and practice make you better.
refreshed and ready to go again. Meditation is great because you can do it anywhere, anytime. And you’ll see, it’s like everything else, time and practice make you better. Detoxification Your body will need detox too and now the holiday season is over, I recommend focusing on green tea and water. Green tea contains one of the highest concentrations of antioxidants and it is a great diuretic. So, you are protecting yourself against ageing while losing toxins at the same time! Some treatments will help you detox and reenergized too such as body wraps. The best thing to do before a wrap is a body scrub to increase the absorption level of your skin for a better detox process. In Remede Spa we recommend a seaweed body wrap which is one of the best wrap to detoxify and strengthen your body. Seaweed is full of vitamins, calcium, magnesium and amino acids which will be absorbed through the skin and work together to draw out toxins. It will improve your blood circulation, reduce your water retention and increase the collagen strength for healthier skin. Remember to drink lots of water. Try drinking it warm and mixed with some freshly squeezed lemon juice, every morning. This fresh burst will help your body to eliminate toxins, it will help to strengthen your immune system, and keep you hydrated. Plus it is full of vitamin C to keep your skin radiant. Just so you know it is best for you to drink either hot or warm water because it will improve your digestion and increase your body temperature. Drinking warm water every day can also help you lose the few kilos you gained during the festive season. Try to keep these habits all year long. One last thing to start the year in a good way, create positive energy - so smile - a lot, you will see that it’s contagious. To get a complete detoxifying and relaxing experience, Remede Spa is now offering a special Detox Package where you will be able to enjoy a steam bath and Jacuzzi followed by a body scrub and a seaweed body wrap. The spa is giving out this special package to one lucky GLAM reader. Follow us on our Facebook Page, www.facebook.com/ glamqatar for a chance to win!
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Rabab takes a bow after the collection is revealed
FASHION GOES OUTDOORS FASHION DESIGNER RABAB ABDULLA RECENTLY UNVEILED HER NEW COLLECTION AT THE LUSAIL MARINA PROMENADE. WE BRING YOU SOME SPECIAL MOMENTS.
Doha’s fashion pack in attendance
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POPULAR DINER REOPENS Chopsticks recently reopened at the Wyndham Grand Regency Doha after a two month hiatus. “We have done our best in this restaurant to provide the authentic Far Eastern ambience to ensure that we continue to delight our guests,� said Eman Abela, Food and Beverage Director, Wyndham Grand Regency Doha.
NATIONAL DAY CELEBRATED Qatar celebrated its National day on December 18, 2013, in all pomp and glory. Various hotels joined the spirit of celebration.Shown here are images from The Ritz Carlton, Doha and The Sharq Village and Spa.
SHOW STOPPERS Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2014
SHOW STOPPERS
Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2014
SHOW STOPPERS Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2014
SHOW STOPPERS
Rosie Assoulin Spring Summer 2014
SINDHU NAIR, EDITOR “Embrace your faults. They are as much a part of you as your abilities. Love yourself totally.”
ROB ALTAMIRANO, STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER “As we bid farewell to 2013, let us celebrate the coming year and strive to have a better and more prosperous 2014.”
DEBRINA ALIYAH, CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT “It’s 2014! Let the good times roll!”
AYSWARYA MURTHY, SENIOR CORRESPONDENT “May you be one of those truly happy people who wouldn’t want to change anything about themselves come the New Year.”
ABIGAIL MATHIAS, SENIOR CORRESPONDENT “We often put too much pressure on ourselves when it comes to New Year resolutions. If there’s one note to myself for 2014, it is this; remember to use the one accessory that comes for free – smile.”
HAPPY NEW YEAR! THE TEAM AT GLAM HQ WOULD LIKE TO WISH ALL OUR READERS A HAPPY NEW YEAR AND THANK YOU FOR BEING WITH US ON OUR STYLE JOURNEY. Shot at Salam Studios & Stores. Sindhu Nair wears Cape Kaftan, Matthew Williamson, QR8,850. Abigail Mathias wears White Coat, Moschino, QR5,995, and Green Stone Necklace, QR2,395. Ayswarya Murthy wears Black Coat, Narciso Rodriguez at Edition01, QR9,905, and Drape Chain Necklace, QR1,495. Debrina Aliyah wears White Top, Givenchy, QR3,450, and White Drop Crotch Pants, Givenchy, QR4,650.