Contents
30 DJWE 2015
The annual glitz and glimmer affair has us coveting some serious bling especially from emerging labels like Suzanne Kalan.
38 SPRING/SUMMER 2015
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .CO M
MARCH 2015
Freedom in movement, art crossovers and the interpretation of perceptions give direction to the new season.
56 URBAN ESCAPES Fashion’s athleisure moment finds its roots in the urban movement.
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Contents 64 INNER WARRIOR
Jewellery designer Nadine Kanso and blogger Anum Bashir explore the strength of women in their new collaboration.
68 OLD IS GOLD
Khadeja Al Buhaliqa combines age-old Qatari traditions with modern flair. She muses about culture, her New York debut and her travels.
86 EYE OPENING La Mer’s new Illuminating Eye Gel is set to be a favourite in our beauty bag for some timereversing solutions.
88 BEAUTY SLEEP
There’s more to sleeping than just snoozing off at night. Getting quality sleep is essential to energy levels and radiant skin.
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE MARCH 2015
ON THE COVER VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA
SINDHU NAIR FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH DEPUTY EDITORS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI SRINIVASAN V L SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS AYSWARYA MURTHY PHOTOGRAPHER ROBERT ALTAMIRANO SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE
MANAGING EDITOR
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
VENKAT REDDY HANAN ABU SIAM AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B
FREDRICK ALPHONSO MANAGER – MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS ASSISTANT MANAGER – MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB MATHEWS CHERIAN SONY VELLATT NAMRATA KAPOOR SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA
SENIOR MANAGER – MARKETING
PRATAP CHANDRAN SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI BASANTHA P
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT
VICE PRESIDENT
Disney’s live-action feature, Cinderella, brings the studio’s 1950 animated masterpiece to life. The costumes and accessories are key elements designed by Sandy Powell. Salvatore Ferragamo also lent a hand to design the shoes for Lady Tremaine, played by Cate Blanchett. Sandy and Ferragamo’s Massimiliano Giornetti created pumps, lace-up shoes and boots. View Sandy’s sketches and behind-the-scene footage from the movie on our FB Page.
EVENTS OF THE MONTH Qatar International Fashion Festival 2015 March 19th and 20th Sheraton Doha Resort and Convention Hotel The festival features a two-day exhibition and a feature fashion show focused on South Asian designers. Founded by Sana Salman, the event will introduce fashion designers and models from South Asia including Asim Jofa, Adnan Pardesy, Goal, Hamna Amir, Shazia’s Bridal Gallery, Umer Sayeed, Umsha Couture and Waseem Noor, to the Qatar market. “QIFF is linked to our previous exhibitions and events, which were held to introduce the Pakistani products and designers to the Qatar market, to attract the locals and expats,” Sana says.
COMING UP
YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH SANDEEP SEHGAL ALPANA ROY RAVI RAMAN
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What couture pieces will the stars be wearing for the next big red carpet event? We review the major Spring/Summer 2015 couture collections, including our region’s very own Rami Al Ali, who has been steadily gaining traction at the prestigious Haute Couture week.
Contributors Cameron Black Cameron Black, an experienced Canadian strength and conditioning coach who has successfully consulted a plethora of clients on hacking their biome towards optimizing performance in all aspects of life. With his B.Sc in Kinesiology from McGill University and his passion for nutrition and training, Cameron facilitates change through his deeper insight into the science of human movement, nutrition, and peak performance. Cameron is now the manager of fitness, nutrition, and lifestyle as well as head strength coach at EVOLVE Doha. Through their mantra of combining quality training and nutritional programming, together, they look to confront the lack of nutritional education, and physical activity that are a growing epidemic in Qatar today. Contact him at cameron@fitnesswithfood.com
Blanca Montenegro Blanca is a no stranger to the hair and make-up scene of Doha, having worked extensively with JCCTV, Al Jazeera News, top filmmakers, photographers, talent agencies, fashion magazines and local celebrities. With close to 30 years of international experience, she also specialises in Brazilian Keratin, spray tan, 3DM eyelash extension and eyebrows services. Find her at montenegroblanka0@gmail.com
YOUR VOICE ON TWITTER, FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM Anahi Brown: Avant garde fashion is fun! Great cover! Sunny Chawla: Those AW15 Gucci shoes makes me rethink fashion.
Waqas Farid Waqas Farid currently designs and implements exhibitions at Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art as an Exhibitions Coordinator. He was born in a not so great part of the greatest city in the world, New York City and then grew up in possibly the worst/not so bad place on earth -- New Jersey suburbs. In 2007 he received his bachelors in arts with a dual major in Philosophy and Political Science from Rutgers University. In 2010, Waqas Farid graduated from a specialized Masters in Fine Arts Program from Bard College and the International Center of Photography. His wife currently owes him QR100,000 for all the photographs he has taken of her for Desertmannequin.
Dawn Gibson Dawn Gibson is a multi-tasking journalist who loves writing about fashion, beauty, food, culture and the arts. A mad traveller, she is never happier than when about to board yet another plane on the way to a far-flung part of the globe in search of fabulous cuisine and amazing adventures. She and her husband are also keen scuba divers always in search of the perfect coral reef.
Samantha Ronald: More giveaways! Love the IsaDora gifts!
LETTERS I could not believe that Gwen Stefani came to Qatar. My friends went to the show and were able to enjoy the performance. We need more events of international standards here. Sara K.T. Will it be possible for Glam to tell us about the upcoming I-Wed event in Doha? I’m eager to attend. Katherine Lopez Nice to read your Valentine’s Day coverage. Keep up the good work. Daniella Rosedale
G Talk Every dress either appeals to or appalls different sets of eyes. Award season was in full-swing over the last couple of weeks, culminating in the much-anticipated Oscars’ red carpet, and while opinions differ on the sartorial choices of the celebrities, one common verdict prevails: They were uninteresting. Harsh, perhaps, or just a ‘playing it safe’ trend sweeping Hollywood’s best stylists? There certainly is no lack of gorgeous creations from the couture shows, but we have yet to spy any on our favourite actresses. On the contrary, the style quotient at fashion week front rows is higher than ever. It seems that’s where celebrities are more likely to take risks and experiment with seasonal trends. Scarlett Johansson sparkled in an all-gold shimmering mini dress at Tom Ford, Khloe Kardashian did a sheer barely-there outfit for Kanye West’s Adidas presentation, and Taylor Swift went for a polished society look at Oscar de la Renta. Could this be a sign of the fashion evolution that is shifting the focus to the street rather than on the pedestal red carpet? After all, it is so much more aspirational for the masses to see a fur bomber jacket worn by Rita Ora, than a multi-layer organza tulle gown worn to an award show. This relevance is not lost in the Spring/Summer 2015 collections that debut this month. Pared down silhouettes, plenty of separates and highly emphasised key pieces seem to be the formula for most designers, making it easy for us to covet the IT items for the season. We make the transition to the streets as well to explore the fascinating world of urbanwear and its rise in the region. Fashion’s athleisure moment finds its roots in an urban movement and Dubai’s players and movers tell us how the lifestyle is shaping their sartorial choices. In anticipation of Art Dubai and Art for Tomorrow, fashion and art come together in a special collaboration between Bil Arabi and Doha’s own Desert Mannequin. The duo explores the inner strength of women, an idea shared by filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher in her latest movie for Miu Miu’s Women’s Tales. We salute the strength in us all to always be ready for change, be it in the wardrobe or in our daily lives.
EDITOR’S PICK NYFW’S STAR SHOW WAS PROBABLY KANYE WEST’S COLLABORATION WITH ADIDAS ORIGINALS YEEZY SEASON 1. WITH A STAR-STUDDED FRONT ROW WHICH INCLUDED BEYONCE, RIHANNA AND ANNA WINTOUR. THE PIECES ARE DEFINED AS ‘SOLUTIONS-BASED’ CLOTHING. “I DON’T WANT THE CLOTHES TO BE THE LIFE,” KANYE SAYS. “I WANT THE CLOTHES TO HELP THE LIFE.”
BUZZ GLAM / NEWS
MARCH 2015
WILL THE NEW TALENT BE FROM ASIA?
FASHION OF THE BRITS London Fashion Week opened with a memorial to Louise Wilson, the inspirational college professor who helped nurture young talent that drives the British capital’s creative reputation. The straight-talking 52-year-old was director of the fashion course at Central Saint Martins (CSM) college for 12 years until she died last May. Her alumni read like a roll call of London’s top designers, among them the late Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunders. The Fashion Week schedule has been suspended for the morning while the memorial takes place, and in the evening many of the guests will head to the graduate show, by current Central Saint Martins students. CSM, which also counts John Galliano among its alumni, is the only college to have a London Fashion Week show and is crucial to the city’s reputation as the place to find new talent. Fashion contributes £26 billion ($40 billion, 35.2 billion Euros) directly to the UK economy, according to new figures from the British Fashion Council, up from £21 billion in 2009.
Twenty-six designers are now one step closer to winning this year’s coveted LVMH Prize, which grants a young fashion designer 300,000 Euros and a year’s support from top LVMH mentors. Next stop is Paris, where they will present their collections to a panel of 45 industry experts to become one of eight finalists. “It shows they have a lot of potential that they were selected again this year -- and how they’ve grown and clarified even more their vision,” said Delphine
Arnault in an official release. In terms of sheer quantity, shortlisted designers from across Asia look the most likely to claim the winning prize. British designers also feature heavily in this year’s shortlist. Craig Green, Huishan Zhang, Faustine Steinmetz and Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, the design duo behind Marques Almeida, are Central Saint Martins graduates, while Nabil Nayal founders Xiao Li and Nabil El-Nayal, studied at the Royal College of Art.
23 NIKE GETS ADVENTUROUS The sportswear giant has teamed up with Sacai head designer Chitose Abe to produce an eight-piece capsule collection inspired by Nike’s running, tennis and American football clothing ranges. What can we expect from this new cobranding project from Nike, spotlighting textile innovation? Functional yet feminine brand classics, featuring Nike’s tech fleece and new mesh lace, colourblocking, plissé-style panelling, side zips and peplum shapes. The Sacai designer says, “I’ve always been inspired by original silhouettes and ideas that often come from utility, performance and sportswear. Nike is a classic and an original that has a purity about it and a familiarity to the silhouettes that they’ve created over the years, so it’s a perfect fit with my aesthetic and inspiration.” “Many of her collections have inspired the design team at Nike, through her elegant and graceful application of materials,” says Kurt Parker, vice president and creative director of Nike Sportswear. Other highlights of the collection are slip-on versions of Nike’s Air Max and Dunk sneakers and trompe l’oeil Air Max wedges.
FOLLOW THE TRENDS FROM TOPSHOP During London Fashion Week, the UK’s stylesavvy retailer Topshop is partnering with Twitter to give trend hunters instant access to next season’s key looks hot off the catwalk. Topshop will unveil its latest digital innovation live at the Topshop Unique Fall ‘15 fashion show. For the first time, Twitter technology will enable the most coveted trends from the show to be almost instantly displayed on six real-time billboards in London and Leeds. Customers will then be able to tweet @Topshop using one of the trend hashtags, for instance #colourblocking, #pleats or #utility, to receive a curated on-trend shopping list of looks that can be purchased immediately. This will be one of the first times a brand is using real-time big data to inspire and curate a customer’s shopping journey.
26 \ TRENDS
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1 ● Desigual Spring Summer 2015
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3 ● 3 ●
4 ●
SAVE
VS
4 ●
SPLURGE 5 ●
6 ●
SAVE 1 Fringed batwing top, QR124. ● 2 Cropped tank, QR62. ● 3 Lace embroidered top, QR74. ● 4 Floral boat-neck top, QR82. ● 5 Fringed maxi skirt, QR41. ● 6 Lace overlay bell bottoms, QR101. ●
All items available from H&M at Villaggio and Landmark Mall.
FREE SPIRIT
There lives in all of us a little bit of the bohemian chic spirit. The days that all you want is to kick off your heels, let your hair down and dance on a beach. Though the trend has somewhat become a cliché and is often associated with a hippie lifestyle of youth and abandon, the finer sartorial elements have been making a reappearance on the catwalk. Light waves of fringes on hems, vibrant floral prints, subtle tribal motifs and batwing silhouettes make for a dreamy feminine outlook. In welcoming the spring season, don’t forget the requisite flower crown when you head out into the sun. DEBRINA ALIYAH
5 ●
6 ●
SPLURGE 1 Baja printed silk-chiffon jumpsuit, QR772, Tory ● 2 Knitted batwing top, QR3660, Burch, The Outnet. ● 3 Kaftan dress, CH Carolina Herrera, Villaggio Mall. ● 4 Silk QR2,944, Dima Ayad, www.dimaayad.com ●
panel top, QR1,442, Paule Ka, www.pauleka.com 5 Tropical silk pants, QR779, Weill, www.weill.com ● 6 Floral print top, QR1,009, Weill, www.weill.com ●
GLAM / ON OUR
RADAR
MARCH 2015
AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
JACQUES VERT X RACHEL TREVOR-MORGAN Occasion wear brand Jacques Vert debuts in the Middle East this season with its Spring Summer 2015 collection. Luxury lace tops, layered chiffon dresses, high-waisted palazzo pants and boleros form a chic edit ideal for the modern woman’s social calendar, a niche that is a signature of the designer. Hand-painted florals, created exclusively by Jacques Vert’s in-house artist, bloom across shift dresses, whilst Holly Golightly-inspired laser
cuts and monochrome scallop-edge details add a touch of vintage chic. Following two successful collaborations with the label, Rachel Trevor-Morgan, milliner to The Queen of England, has designed an exclusive range of elegantly structured headwear in ladylike tones of champagne, shell pink, powder blue and black, and are accented with beading, feathers, flowers and delicate netting. The collaboration arrives in stores just in time for the racing season in the region.
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CHANEL PREMIERE ROCK Chanel brings a touch of rock ‘n’ roll to its new watch line, Première Rock, which combines the sophistication inherent to the house with a younger, more modern and more rebellious side. The watches in this new collection are based on Chanel’s classic Première model, but are updated with a number of design details to create an edgier, more contemporary rock ‘n’ roll style. The collection consists of four models: the Première Rock Métal with a double-wrap steel chain bracelet and a black lacquered dial and the Première Rock Rose, Beige or Bleu with a triple-wrap bracelet interlaced with dyed leather and a motherof-pearl dial. All models come with a high-precision quartz movement and indicate hours and minutes.
ONE OF ONE CYBILL BAG To celebrate Aigner’s 50th anniversary this year, the house is releasing fifty limited edition Cybill bags, which are all unique versions of the signature tote. The special edition, One of One, encompasses the clear and elegant stylistic elements of the house. Each bag is handmade in Italy and has its own unique look, and the lining of each bag is scripted with a signature of its unique limited edition number. The materials include snake, lizard and crocodile leather, as well as ostrich, skate and pony fur, while the colours range from earthy tones such as cognac, beige and sand, right through to bright tones of red, pink and sky blue. The interplay of materials and colours result in variations of camouflage, such as lion and houndstooth, that give each bag its own identity. The Qatar edition, Fairytale, is a medley of textures and blue shades.
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MARIO UBOLDI JEWELLERY ART Whether it is the Dot design inspired by the British artist Damien Hirst’s Spot Paintings, the Mashrabiya designs inspired from the architecture of the buildings in the Middle Eas,t or the Colour Carvings inspired by the Cut-Outs of French artist Henri Matisse, there is an art story behind each piece of Mario Uboldi Jewellery Art. The fine jewellery brand was founded by Dubaibased architect and artist André C. Meyerhans
as a tribute to his grandfather Mario Uboldi. The Zurich-born architect, who designed Dubai’s Garhoud Bridge, blurs the boundaries between jewellery and art by blending the language of contemporary art, design and architecture from Middle Eastern culture and fuses it into various forms of jewellery. Each piece is handcrafted in solid precious metals and gem stones, and are individually numbered and registered.
MIU MIU ASTRO RUNNING Bejewelled and playfully cute in appearance, the new Miu Miu Astro running shoe has us wanting to hit the race track. Giving form and shine to a classic shape, the design is a culmination of the house’s fine craftsmanship and sportiness. Form and function come into play resulting in a shoe that is light, soft and flexible to wear. The articulated rubber sole, sourced in the Miu Miu archive, has been reinvented with the addition of little round nubs, inspired by a whimsical combination of part baby hedgehog and part sea creature in appearance. The upper is crafted in a technical satin that is entirely hand-embroidered with constellations of sequins and crystal. The neck of the shoe is cut in sock-like neoprene to ensure a close fit. The shoe is available exclusively in the region, only at Miu Miu Villaggio Mall and Level Shoe District Dubai Mall.
Q ATA R ’ S N O . 1 FA S H I O N M A G A Z I N E
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Model (left) wears Piou-Piou Clip and Forêt merveilleuse clip while model (right) wears the Miroir enchanté necklace and detachable clip. All jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels.
INFINITY
GEMS THE BRIGHTEST STONES, THE DEEPEST COLOURS AND FINEST TECHNIQUES REAFFIRMED OUR LOVE FOR ALL THINGS SHINY AT THE 2015 DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION.
FASHION / 33
Gold and diamond Kate bangles, Messika Joaillerie.
Geo Graham London pocket watch, Graham.
Tourbillon Fleur Magnolia watch, Richard Mille.
Fish pendants in pink and yellow gold with enamel and diamonds, Leo Pizzo.
Rubellite and diamond necklace from the Red Carpet collection as worn by Rihanna, Chopard.
Knuckle ring from the White Noise collection, Repossi.
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Pearl necklace from the Tresors collection, Robert Wan.
Promise ring from the Promise collection, Stefan Hafner.
The 4-shaped necklace from the Silhouette collection, Mouawad.
Blue and yellow sapphires and yellow diamond earrings, Chaumet.
Reine Makeda earrings with Mozambique rubies, Cartier.
Bar En Corolle emerald bracelet, Dior.
St-Tropez Diamonds Rose Gold watch, Charriol.
Rewaya ring in ruby pearls, QELA.
FASHION / 35 Floral motif diamond neck piece, Jaipur Gems.
Stackable and interchangeable pendants from the Totem Pendant Collection, David Webb. Champagne diamonds smartphone from the Jardin Secret Collection, Savelli.
The Lion ring from the ‘Les Intemporels’ collection, CHANEL Haute Jewellery.
18 karat pink salmon topaz bangle, Suzanne Kalan.
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01
02
Chinese actress Zhao Wei wears a personalised Jaeger-LeCoultre High Jewellery 101 diamond and ruby watch, which she co-designed with the brand.
WHO WHAT WEAR
ON THE RED CARPET, OFF THE RUNWAY AND ON THE STREET, CELEBRITIES BRING THEIR STYLE GAME.
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Lady Gaga in a printed suit from DSquared’s Resort 2015 collection.
Ariana Grande performs at the 2015 Grammy Awards in a custom deep purple silk jersey Versace gown.
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Felicity Jones attends the AARP The Magazine’s 14th Annual Movies For Grownups Awards in a black Prada silk draped bustier dress with contrast stitching.
TRENDS / 37
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Gwen Stefani performs at the 2015 Grammy Awards in a custom strapless red gown with beaded silk satin cutouts from the Atelier Versace Spring 2015 collection.
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Gwyneth Paltrow wears a Lanvin Spring 2015 stone-blue gown, Lanvin python sandals and David Webb jewels at the premiere of her new movie, Mortdecai.
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Jennifer Connelly wears a head-to -toe Louis Vuitton ensemble of intricately embroidered lavender leather at the brand’s launch of their Series 2 Exhibition.
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Megan Fox wears a Salvatore Ferragamo purple satin halter gown for the Tokyo premiere of her movie Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
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Kerry Washington wears a Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2015 gown, Tod’s Signature Clutch and Christian Louboutin pumps to the 2015 Producers Guild Awards.
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Actress Stacy Martin wears a beaded Louis Vuitton dress to the 2015 British Academy of Film and Television Awards (BAFTA).
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Beyonce wears a Messika Joaillerie Silk Tie necklace with an all-white ensemble from Dubai-based couturier Amato, during her performance at the 2015 Grammy Awards.
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Kat Dennings wears a black dress and capelet from Paule Ka at the MusiCares 2015 Person of The Year Gala.
Actress Dakota Johnson in a Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane plunging neckline dress at the premiere of Fifty Shades of Grey.
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Natalie Portman wears a Lanvin Pre-Fall 2015 dress with a crystalembroidered bib to the premiere of The Seventh Fire at the 65th Berlin International Film Festival.
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Rita Ora wears a sparkly semi-sheer Prada gown with Lorraine Schwartz ear cuffs to the 2015 Grammy Awards.
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Patricia Arquette attends the BAFTA Nominees Party in a black ensemble from Paule Ka.
TRENDS / 39
WOMEN OF SUBSTANCE In a first-of-its-kind of event in the Middle East, online retailer Net-A-Porter hosted an intimate styling presentation in Doha in collaboration with Qatar National Bank (QNB). The evening of fashion was aimed at meeting the top tier clients of both NAP and QNB and to introduce some key trends for the new season. NAP’s sales and marketing director, Lisa Bridgett, opened the evening with an address on ‘Women of Substance’, focusing on the increasingly important
roles that women are taking on in all industries across the region. “We wanted to say thank you to our clients and meet new women who might be interested in the proposition of shopping with us. Collaborating with private banks in other countries has worked very well for us,” Lisa says. Along with Lisa, NAP’s global head of personal shopping, Lupe Puerta, also spoke on some of the trending seasonal looks and how to adapt them for the region.
Bora Aksu SS15
TRENDS / 41
SPRING SUMMER 2015 FREEDOM IN MOVEMENT, ART CROSSOVERS AND THE INTERPRETATION OF PERCEPTIONS GIVE DIRECTION TO THE BLOSSOMING NEW SEASON.
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Louis Vuitton Two things made impactful first impressions: the eel leather high boots and the updated cushiony Petite Malle. The Petite Malle, of course, is the new emblematic trunkshaped clutch introduced by Nicolas Ghesquiére when he took over the creative reins at Louis Vuitton, and this season, it comes in an adorable soft-to-touch texture. The clothing is a signature-shaping progression at play for Ghesquiére. Though diverse, with influences of British school grounds, touches of bohemian
romantic, psychedelic references of the 70s and prints of pop-art; the narrow silhouettes and woven embroideries are familiar grounds from last season. Leather innovation is at the forefront as a constant nod to the house’s heritage, appearing as detailing and finishing, perforated motifs and paired with unexpected materials like scuba. The LV woman heralds only boots this spring, either ankle or high versions with heels that are sculptured with monogram flowers and star shapes.
Twist Malletage
Denim patchwork boots
TRENDS / 43
Hand Jewel
The new soft-to-touch version of Petite Malle
Pop Chips Earrings in White
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Salvatore Ferragamo
Paying homage to Italian Murano glass craftsmanship, Massimiliano Giornetti brings the vivid colour and graphic formation from the technique into this collection. Playing with textures - handled, cut, frayed, and melted – the focus is on the ‘work of hand’ and the unique touch that comes with each individual piece. The silhouette is almost bare skin, skimming close to the body with invisible waistlines. For a touch of subtle sexiness, halter necks reveal the
shoulders and voluminous trousers give just a peek at calves. Pouch coats and short capes are fastened at the waist with reptile-leather belts that are crafted from structural woven fabrics reminiscent of Salvatore’s original use of materials. Accessories feature actual Murano glass with bracelets, chains and clutches handblown by craftsmen. The iconic rainbow wedge from the house’s archive makes a black appearance as a sandal in the collection.
TRENDS / 45
Donna Karan
Scribbles, strokes and splashes form the main print narrative for the collection, sometimes bordering on graffiti-like chaotic colours. Donna Karan brings influences from around the world - India, Bali, and Haiti to meet in the heart of New York, which she calls her palette and her fuel. “A culture that empowers creativity,” she says. The prints come to life through an urban chic vibe - pieces sculpted in paper cotton, stretch canvas and organza, and rings of casual silhouettes
like rolled-sleeved shirts and boat-neck t-shirts. Get crafty as tops are meant to be folded, tucked, and twisted, while bottoms are adorned with the ever so trendy flounce. There’s a handwoven tweed jacket that resembles Indian handicraft work, while tiny bra tops are paired with voluminous skirts. In accessories, wedges are sexily sculpted, totes are unique one-off handpainted pieces and there are some crazy hats designed by Stephen Jones that would definitely make Pharrell happy.
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Lanvin
The Lanvin woman in Spring is serene, regal and unpretentious. Someone who values her freedom and comfort in an Urban Eden, as the collection is named. This sense of freedom comes from the fluid movements that transpire from the cuts and draping of the pieces. A gown is worn naturally as a t-shirt, crumpled woven linen suits are paired with supple trench coats and silk satin dresses are terracotta-washed for a sense of nonchalance. Shades
of grey, khaki, ecru and nude form the main palette while little details of nets, slits, eyelets and jewelled straps complete the pieces, which are strikingly simple, yet classy. The sense of ease also comes from experience, as designer Alber Elbaz had iconic names like Kirsten Owen, Amber Valletta and Violetta Sanchez take the runway, proving the importance of the woman who wears the dress and not the dress that wears the woman.
TRENDS / 47
Loewe
A torn suede dress, Oro, opens the runway show, presenting the house’s signature hue in a new way that encapsulates a nascent woman. The dress symbolises something deeper, a coming together of the past, present and future of the house, which is currently experiencing a new dawn with J.W. Anderson. Lightness is a key theme in the collection, with the house exploring ways in which leather becomes fluid in appearance, with a sense of airiness. Silhouettes are defined by
ease and softness, punctuated with sharp, unexpected elements like the placement of a knot, the way a classic scarf print from the archive is transposed onto latex, or the calculated asymmetry of a skirt. The introduction of a new bag was expected and so in comes Puzzle, a new cubic bag which can be worn in at least five ways. The deconstructed signature element of the house comes into play to present this new iconic bag that seems to mould into different fits.
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Marc Jacobs
“I quite like the idea of how things are perceived. How people look at things and people’s interpretation of them, in and out of context,” says Marc Jacobs. The perception for this collection is relooking at a familiar military palette, which the designer has taken out of context and put into high fashion shapes with couture techniques. Using a neutral-based colour palette seen in classic army and surplus clothing, key pieces include wool
gabardine dresses, long silk shirt dresses featuring front patch pockets and epaulettes, wool mélange suiting in military green and blue and large patch pocket mini-skirts with army shirting featuring guipure embroidery. Resin cabochons highlighted the hems and necklines of jackets and cotton twill pleated dresses. The flat slide sandals that accompanied most of the looks were a contrasting element, in colours ranging from ivory to gold, with paved buckles.
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Nina Ricci
“Images of war-torn Paris led me to think about how Parisians had to be resourceful with their wardrobe and customise and rethink their clothes,” says artistic director Peter Copping. He brings the idea of ‘make do and mend’ to this collection, referencing the post-war period in 1946 when Madame Ricci and her son Robert created scale models of couture dresses to promote French fashion. The spirit of ‘DIY couture’ is further
enhanced by taking inspiration from Louise Bourgeois’ textile works from the same period. Using menswear pieces, Peter reworks the silhouette to be long and lean with military references. While day dresses are easy and fluid, evening pieces feature interwoven laces, laser-cut flowers and jet beading. The house collaborated with jewellery designer Sonia Boyajian by featuring archive pieces alongside the collection.
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Victoria Beckham
Following the opening of the first Victoria Beckham store in London late last year, the designer has definitely nailed down the essence of her label – a modern sense of purpose and precision in dressing women. As much as it is in developing a fashion business, it is also a reflection of the designer’s own journey in finding the perfect balance of injecting her signature with new techniques and silhouettes. “It has pushed me to focus on the DNA of the brand. Informed by these new shapes was
the idea of creating an eclectic uniform in a wearable wardrobe that embodies the evolution of the collection,” she explains. Soft flouncy raincoats and ribbed-knit dresses and skirts are accentuated with patch pockets and leather waist belts. Victoria also introduces her own shoe line this season. “Creating all elements of the collection under one roof enabled me to complete and strengthen the silhouette and this has been key in the design journey for me.”
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Céline
Spontaneity and letting go marks a departure from the usually directional visions of Phoebe Philo in her creations. “I wanted a feeling of things which could be given, borrowed, touches of things you might have collected,” she comments on the collection, which reflects a more open approach to how women dress. Fabrics are varied with versatile silhouettes that are anchored by monochrome black and white shades,
and highlighted by strong floral prints. Fluidity is the key for separate pieces: wide flare leg trousers, t-shirtshaped dresses, and tunics worn over pants and skirts. The continuity of previous narratives, however, is still present in sharp details like contrast stitching and arm belts. And who would consider Céline, without the statement coats and knitwear; staunchly represented by a gorgeous hand knitted macramé dress.
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Dsquared2
Mediums of art find a fit in this collection, with coats, pants and skirts that have sculpture-like forms and prints inspired by iconic art styles of colour-blocking and Aztec graphic patterns. Dean and Dan also turn up the volume on shapes, form and proportion in billowing floor-length skirts, voluminous sweartshirts and oversized boyfriend’s jeans. Pleated ruffles take centrestage in giving new form to long skirts and short tunics
that blossom with multiple layers of intricately pleated fabric in vibrant hues of ochre, teal and red. The dramatic pieces are then casually paired with sporty t-shirts or polo shorts. There were a few looks with bright sparks of feathers including a fully-feathered tote bag. A long raffia silk coat with gigantic circle prints is one of our favourites, and so is the latticed leatherwork thigh-high boots.
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Dior
An extension from last season’s couture, Raf Simons continues to explore the relationship of past and future in this collection, by blurring the lines between the traditions of haute couture and ready-to-wear. “By beginning with the ingredients and the form language of couture, I went further by making ready-to-wear feel more dynamic and real. I wanted it to be made available to a wider audience,” he explains. 18th century court coats merge with street
aesthetics of skater’s shorts and godet dresses, Edwardian longline coats are reinterpreted in washed silk satins and thick calf leather, and traditional silk jacquards appear side-by-side with modern micro jacquards in a digital grid. “The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something historical, and bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical. It is the attitude that matters,” Raf says.
PLEATS
Everybody seemed to be at it, from Massimo Nicosia at Pringle of Scotland who opened his show with a sporty pleated skirt, to Christopher Kane who worked pleats paired with rope motifs across his collection. At Thomas Tait, who was showing his first collection since his LVMH prize win, pleats jutted out at asymmetric angles from models’ hips and were also draped across the torso on the diagonal.
Christopher Kane
KEY TRENDS
Mulberry
FLORAL REMIX
At Issa, there were black and white abstract daisies, while at Mulberry there was an ultramodern twist on honeycomb patterns and classic floral. All those flowers got a geometric, early 20th century rendering at the hands of Peter Pilotto, while House of Holland had a retro 60s and 70s flower-power vibe.
SHEER
Both Mary Katrantzou and Erdem used sheer silk as a foundation for layers of further embellishment; florals, feathers and trellis motifs for Moralioglu at Erdem and ancient fish and lizards for Katrantzou. Tom Ford went for a sexy, direct approach, sending out models in full sheer tops with built-in sequin nipple covers. Antonio Berardi shone with a dégradé tuxedo jacket which started transparent at the shoulders but was inky black and opaque at the waist. Even Armani did diaphanous, both below and above the waist, although his take on the bra-free trend was predictably at the discreet rather than full-frontal end of the scale.
Antonio Berardi
Tom Ford
Giorgio Armani
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Max Mara
Anna Sui
FLARES AND FRINGES
Etro turned on the tassle factor with a series of bead-heavy outfits that channeled Pocahontas. Anna Sui, Tory Burch and Jeremy Scott all looked to the 60s and 70s for different interpretations. Scott went maximalist with his use of slogans and vibrant prints, riffing on a cartoonish version of California hippie culture. Sui’s look at the psychedelic rock gods of that era was more refined and dreamy. Tory Burch went retro with a mix of her usual preppy pep, and a folky twist on the last century through the lens of artist Françoise Gilot.
BARBIE DOLL RETRO
Moschino’s overt working of the Barbie doll look was retro in more ways than one, while the likes of DSquared2 and Max Mara explored the ‘not that pretty but smart’ side of 70s sex appeal: the latter taking direct inspiration from Anjelica Houston’s unconventional beauty. Elizabeth & James
Phillip Lim Rag and Bone
TRELLIS PRINT
From last season, the trellis pattern reappeared on the runway this spring as a bolder update. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer took his cue from the quilting on mattresses, working the trellis check throughout his collection. Elizabeth & James also employed the effect in the brand’s city-meets-surf pieces, most notably on their stunning semi-sheer shirts. Meanwhile at Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez opened with a thick trellis reworking of the classic plaid shirt and then used the pattern in perforated leather pieces.
URBAN MINIMALISM
Sporty, pared-back take on urban clothing remains dominant. Rag & Bone were key proponents, sending out slick and minimalist versions of summer coats, trenches and utility jackets. Victoria Beckham worked a similar vibe, but broke up her clothes’ clean lines with some brighter prints and colour. Tim Coppens was among the designers including Hood By Air who added a punkier element, and worked with New York City’s street wear heritage.
EXCEPTION IN THE ORDINARY MIU MIU’S SPRING SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION COMES TO LIFE.
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sing dresses as the protagonist, Italian filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher tells her story of what defines femininity in the short movie De Djess that is produced as part of Miu Miu’s ‘Women’s Tales’. Eccentric and mostly interpretative, the dresses from Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2015 collection take on personalities of their own in a narrative that is set against a quaint village hotel run by nuns. The movie starts with the dresses washed ashore like survivors from a shipwreck and, after being rescued by the nuns, they find a new life as ‘celebrities’ in the hotel. De Djess is
reminiscent of Alice’s award-winning work The Wonders, which explores Italy’s evaporating peasant culture. “I want in my films to pose questions,” Rohrwacher admits, “not to offer answers.” De Djess is full of questions and adds another tender tonality to the Miu Miu Women’s Tales series: a mirrored world where objects choose owners instead of the other way around. “I felt it was right to give the lead role to a dress, and put myself inside,” the director explains. The movie premiered in New York during this season’s fashion week, and acclaimed photographer, Brigitte Lacombe, takes us behind-the-scenes in the making of the movie. Watch the full movie on www.miumiu.com
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Urban Hood By Air Spring Summer 2015
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Escapes BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Urbanwear, encapsulating an expression of self through style, explores collections that are alternative and unpredictable.
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Rad Hourani
Rad Hourani
THE BIG WIGS
THE CARTEL This concept space is truly the heart of the avant-garde and alternative fashion movement in the region. Dubbed as a gallery of wearable art, The cARTel speaks to the fashion savvy, confident audience who determine their own distinctive personal style without blind commitments to labels. The store’s buying aesthetic is driven towards progressive design elements, experimental cuts and unconventional silhouettes. “There’s close to zero
chance of someone in the Middle East wearing the same outfit as yours from The cARTel,” says one of the founders, Peter Richweisz. While names like Iris Van Herpen, Hussein Chalayan, Gareth Pugh and Rad Hourani form the anchor, the store is also a platform for emerging designers to set foot in the Middle East. “We treat fashion as an artistic expression and some of the creations should be considered as wearable art, so pretty much all of our labels fall under the avant-
Rad Hourani
Solid Gray
garde category. Besides the usual routes, we visit cities slightly off the beaten path to find new talent,” he explains. The multicultural attribute of the region has allowed for the store to create a niche palette of collections, which brings a wider choice of fashion to customerswho are becoming more diverse in tastes. “Avant-garde fashion appeals across age and demographics. It’s all down to personal confidence and taste,” he says. The cARTel is located in Al Quoz, Dubai.
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THE LUXURY ARCADE Lina Mustafa’s urban aesthetics translates into the uber-cool The Luxury Arcade, the first concept store to open its doors in Abu Dhabi. Crossing into the world of menswear – a long time stronghold for the urban lifestyle – Lina brings a fresh mix and match perspective with a feminine touch. “I tend to wear a lot of men’s clothing and am more of a sneakers and sweatpants kind of girl, so it’s very
Wanda Nylon, 3,250AED
much in my comfort zone,” she explains. The philosophy of combining urbanwear with luxury pieces comes through in her buying for the store; fresh labels including Stripes, Nerdy Fresh, Filling Pieces and Daily Paper make their debut appearance in the region, while established names like Prabal Gurung and Marios Schwab fill the top shelves. “I love seeing how the scene here has evolved and how people
Marios Schwab, 7,090AED
are taking on different trends. Urban wear is generally comfortable and easy to wear so the trend is definitely picking up,” she says. The distinctive emerging urban voice from regional designers hs not been missed, The Luxury Arcade is keen to support names including Amongst Few, House of Nomad and L’Afshar. The Luxury Arcade is located at The World Trade Centre Mall, Abu Dhabi.
Jonathan Simkhai, 4,450AED
Wanday Nylon, 1,720AED
THE PLAYERS
AMONGST FEW There is so much swag and perspective into the lifestyle presentation of this label that it truly embodies the spirit of urbanwear with a strong origin in Dubai. The essence of street culture derives strongly from its locale, and in a twoand-a-half minute video feature, the debut collection of Amongst Few plays out against the rugged landscape of the Emirates, complete with some dirt biking action. Founded by Flo Moser and Mike Taylor who both come from the music industry, the label was an organic progression, “as we have always been
surrounded by fashion, music and art,” Mike says. “The emphasis here is to keep core features like attention to detail and quality alive while creating timeless premium street wear for ourselves and others,” he explains. The collection derives from the duo’s experience of living in Dubai and the Emirate’s diverse culture and lifestyle. “We integrate these with the monochrome shades of UAE’s traditional clothing, classic silhouettes, high-quality prints and modern detailing on premium garments,” Mike adds. As front-runners for street culture in the region, the
developing scene is encouraging for the duo. “With large events like Sole DXB, you can really see the demand for street culture is increasing. When meeting other designers, brands and figures of the culture outside of the UAE, they all mention that they have heard positive things about the growing scene in Dubai, which is great for a city so young,” Flo says. Amongst Few’s first delivery consists of durable soft handle tees, embroidered sweaters and hoodies made from 100% Peruvian cotton, snapbacks, and leather bags. Shop at www.amongstfew.com
WEKAFORE DUBAI
“Urbanwear because they are no rules on the street,” says Wekafore Jibril, the head designer for the label, who reminisces about the times of du-rags, baggy denim pants and Nike AF1s. Wanting to endorse unique perspectives, Wekafore Dubai was founded to explore a mindset that goes deeper than just clothes; it is a way of communicating without talking. “We realised that there are no brands that
really represent Dubai; the Deira lifestyle or switching it up to the classy Downtown lifestyle. That’s what we do - New Street,” Wekafore explains. This season, the label is seeking to redefine streetwear by giving it an avant-garde touch with inspirations that come from a place of solitude and simplicity. “The idea of young people who go to school and work looking really sleek, yet street-smart,” he says. There’s
a strong push for individuality and selfidentity in the label’s message, which is core in the expression of streetwear. “I am tired of fancy girls.” And he’s also tired of everyone wanting to dress like Kanye West or ASAP Rocky. “Our task now is to convince people that urban brands from Dubai are just as good and fashion forward.”
Photo Credit: Moez Achour & Alex Callueng
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JUNIORS BE JUNIOR
Vibrant, young and hip, Juniors be Junior fills the local market gap for affordable funky streetwear and accessories. It was almost like an accidental venture for Yasmeen Al-Naif, who dived into the world of branding and videography despite an academic background in management and economics. “Fashion was never on the radar and I never had much of an interest for it, let alone designing! Though
I definitely have always had an eye for clothing with a dress sense that is different from the crowd,” she explains. Finding an interest in urbanwear, Yasmeen started the label as a platform to merge her talents in visual arts with designing. “Streetwear items can be made to look extremely cool, and also as statement pieces,” she says. While Dubai seems to be the burgeoning regional centre for street culture, there’s
definitely a myriad of elements at play. “Lots of home-grown designers are doing well but I feel that the actual ‘movement’ is pioneered through the art industry in Dubai, which is trickling into a changing urban fashion scene,” she says. Juniors be Junior currently carries monochromatic unisex staples of sweatshirts, sweatpants, tshirts, snapbacks and beanies at www. juniorsbejunior.com
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THE PERSONALITIES
Two female popstars stand out in championing the rise of urbanwear for women: Rihanna and Rita Ora, whose dressing styles evoke the best of streetwear with luxury brands. Equally comfortable in couture gowns as she is in her favourite New Balance sneakers, Rihanna’s street-style looks have always veered towards stylised
hoodies, sweatpants, cropped tops and statement tees. The popstar, who was honoured with a CFDA Fashion Icon Award last year, is also always on-point with her mix and matches, luxurious fur coats with biker tees and torn jeans with stilettos. Meanwhile, Rita Ora is the queen of bomber jackets, sweatshirts and co-ords, prompting her
collaboration with Adidas Originals last year. The sell-out collection has brought on a second instalment which will focus on Pop-Art. The British singer has a penchant for beanies and is a favourite with Moschino designer Jeremy Scott. She was one of the first privileged few to don the brand’s Spongebob sweater dress.
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INNER WARRIOR BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
IT IS A PLAY ON THE CONCEPT OF STRENGTH FROM ALL PERSPECTIVES. THE SUBTLE REPRESENTATION OF THE POWERFUL SWORD IN THE ARABIC LETTER ALEF IS COMBINED WITH ITS AUTHORITATIVE STATURE AS THE OPENING ALPHABET FOR THE LANGUAGE.
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his philosophy characterises the collaboration between jewellery designer Nadine Kanso of Bil Arabi and Qatar’s own style blogger Anum Bashir of Desert Mannequin. The exploration of strength, courage and adventure in the form of a woman’s inner warrior comes together in the ‘Alef/20’ capsule collection of eight unique pieces integrating Nadine’s signature work with Arabic typography and Anum’s minimal aesthetics. The collection of cuffs, earrings, pendants and rings depicting various versions of the alphabet, with only twenty pieces available per design, is crafted using 18-carat gold and embellished with diamonds and sapphires. “The overall design of the collection stemmed from something personal: a diamond and sapphire set I had designed for my wedding as part of my dowry. Nadine loved the initial design and we decided to adapt and modify it in a way that reflected greatly on our personal aesthetics. I wanted something strong and minimal, and Nadine wanted to add a unique sparkle and ‘Arabize’ it,” Anum explains. The duo’s mutual love for art and “appreciation for people with a cool and unique style” got them working on the pieces that celebrate cultural identity and individuality. As a multi-medium
artist, Nadine’s work for Bil Arabi has been widely celebrated in the region for representing a contemporary Arab voice. The creative meeting between the two personalities has also sparked a new friendship, as they share the journey of their artistic collaboration. How did the collaboration come about ? Anum: I have always loved Bil Arabi and greatly admire the work of Nadine. As an artist, she’s just plain ol’ cool! With Nadine, it was apparent from the get-go that she gravitates towards individuals who wish to leave a mark and be different. And I’ve always felt the same. Our quick friendship blossomed into a collection. I wanted 2015 to be the year I did something special with someone remarkable, so I asked Nadine how she felt about collaborating, and she said, yes!”. Nadine: The first time I noticed Anum was on Desert Mannequin’s Instagram. It was fresh, different and had an identity of her own, and her penchant for art, which is something that I love too. A few weeks later, I received an email inquiring about The LOVE Cuff (from the collection) and I immediately recognised the name! From there on, it was a phone call, then a lunch, then a lot of talks and great time spent. We both hit it off and had mutual feelings
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about a lot of brands and art-related topics. Collaborations are usually not a walk in the park but I have to say this one and my men’s line collaboration have just been wow. How did the concept of Strength appear? Anum: I think women increasingly represent strength these days. There is an inner warrior in us: a desire to constantly surpass what we have achieved, to grasp and conquer something bigger and better. I see Nadine and how she has managed to create something so recognisable in less than a decade. And that comes from being strong, and possessing an inner passion that fuels our journey. Not only do we share similar traits, and now a blossoming friendship, I feel I’ve learned so much from a wonderful person. Nadine: The Alef in its shape has the elements of a sword and being the first letter makes it a strong and powerful letter. In this collection, everything is about the Alef, not only because of its shape but also representative of Anum’s initial and its beautiful meaning, which is ‘Blessing’. A lot of similarities brought us together; our characters as women with a sense of responsibility, ambition and drive, the way we look at life and the power we hold in our heart, all these elements are the essence of strength in my
opinion. How do you identify with being a warrior? Anum: My husband tells me, “You’re a fighter, and rarely accept defeat or no for an answer. Your inner warrior is fiercely loyal, has a lot of love to give, and a spirit that’s filled with optimism.” Nadine: A warrior is someone who doesn’t accept injustice and unfairness, someone who has the strength to endure and be patient. In many ways, I am like that. Who are women of strength to you? Anum: Anyone who has ever suffered greatly and yet still managed to achieve an immense amount. People lead by example. My mother did just that. Nadine: I admire women, kids, men who live in war zones, in oppression and yet manage to smile and walk to school, work under hard circumstances. People who are sick and still get up every morning and thank God for what they have. People who achieve. The capsule collection will be launched during Art Dubai this month. The pieces will be available in Per Lei Couture in Doha, Harvey Nichols and S*uce Rocks in Dubai, and online on Luisa Via Roma.
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OLD IS
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F Khadeja Al Buhaliqa combines ageold Qatari traditions with modern flair. She muses about culture, her New York debut and the inspiration of travel.
ashion is both an international language and a cultural melting pot. If you are chic enough to carry it off, there is no problem with mixing vintage Parisian couture with funky accessories from a hip Japanese designer, or a US department store dress with exquisite handmade shoes from Morocco. Combining cultural influences is at the heart of the fashion ethos of Khadeja Al Buhaliqa, a young Qatari designer and stylist who is beginning to make a name by creating clothing that draws on her country’s traditions yet gives a strong nod to European and Asian trends. In her first collection, Old is Gold, launched in Spring Summer 2014 in New York, the 25-year-old presented haute couture evening gowns decorated with zari, a fine gold thread typically used on traditional Qatari garments, along with a delicately printed swirling skirt, intricately embroidered pieces and a light camel-hair coat based on the bisht, the classic Arabic men’s cloak. Her Spring Summer 2015 collection, Purity, is more casual, with ready-to-wear separates built around the dress-like jalabiya worn by women across the region, as well as elegant skirts and trousers, in a palette of pink, beige, deep blue and gold. Abayas feature in both collections. “I am carrying on traditions but making clothes that are modern,” Khadeja explains. “So, for example, I have given the jalabiya a twist. You can style it funky; you can wear it with trousers or with jeans, and anything you fancy. “I really believe in my culture. While cultures in the Middle East and among the Gulf countries have many similarities, Qatari culture is different, with its own beauty and character which we’re proud of.” Khadeja’s grandfather and great-grandfather were both in the tailoring business, and she has happy memories of seeing her grandfather working with zari. “I sometimes feel more pressure because my grandfather had those techniques and that talent of how to work with bisht, how to work with thobe – I grew up watching him step by step, day by day,” she says.
GOLD BY DAWN GIBSON
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“I want to encourage women to stand for their dreams.�
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She is also driven by a desire to be a role model for other young women, including her teenage sister, Fatima, the inspiration for her latest collection. Khadeja is certainly someone a younger person can look up to. As well as running her own label, Kojee Design by Al Buhaliqa, which sells through word-of-mouth and Instagram, Khadeja works in the security field, is the proud mum of a baby boy and is in demand as a public speaker. She was recently the youngest speaker at a national forum for Qatari women and is working with the US Embassy and the Qatari Student Association to motivate more young women from Qatar to study in America (she completed an international studies degree in the US and a Masters of Public Policy in Qatar). “I want to encourage women to stand for their dreams,” she says. “Maybe they haven’t because they are afraid and shy, or they feel that they are less than others. I am doing a lot of speeches around schools to teach students they can do exactly what they are dreaming of.” Khadeja’s commitment to encouraging other women is a key factor in her fashion career. Her debut collection was unveiled at ‘The World’s Creativity Without Borders’ fashion showcase in Manhattan in March 2014, organised by the United Nations-linked group Maritage International. Representing Qatar as the only Arab designer
to participate in the event, Khadeja presented her collection to a select crowd which included UN VIPs, fashion media and industry representatives alongside designers from New Zealand, Japan, Indonesia and Senegal. Funds raised went towards Maritage’s projects to help female artisans around the world set up their own businesses, based on their artistic and cultural heritage. hadeja has continued to work with Maritage, taking part in a cultural showcase in South Korea in October, for which designers from around the world contributed outfits to be displayed on dolls. Khadeja sent traditional Qatari outfits, a thobe for a male doll and an abaya for a female one. Maritage is planning an Islamic fashion event in Dubai this year and may hold a similar event in Qatar, bringing together international and local designers. Khadeja is also bubbling over with fresh ideas for her third collection, based on a recent trip to Singapore. “There was such a mix there, with Malaysian culture, Indonesian culture, Chinese culture, all under the same umbrella,” she enthuses. “It’s a really inspiring place for me to start thinking about a collection for next winter.”
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Find Khadeja’s designs on Instagram @Kojee_Design.
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AHEAD OF
THE CURVE BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
AS A DESIGNER WHO IS ALWAYS ENGAGING WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD, WAAD ALI’S NEW COLLECTION REFLECTS HER TRAVEL AND STREETSTYLE ENDEAVOURS.
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“We are always trying to renew ourselves. Each collection is completely different from the previous one. I never attempt the same cut twice.�
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WAAD
launched a sister company a couple of years back called ‘WADDthemagazine’, an Instagram-based site that is compiled of an interesting collage of fashion, style, travel, home, arts and design. The designer looks at it as a means to support local talent, aspiring projects and campaigns. “I visited Kuwait for the first time last November. A trip to the local fabric stores inspired my collection, along with my newly-found love for travel collections. The fabrics are all quilted with various different quilting designs on them. The embroidery is all inspired by the beautiful face tattoos worn by the Bedouin women of the East. The pieces are all simple lines and connecting dots.” The Travel Collection made its debut in a trunk show and won over many hearts. “It is always a challenge to find a host for the show. We were fortunate that Darz Design graciously agreed to host our event. The rest just fell in place quite easily,” she says. The designs stand out for their embroidered beige and grey borders. Innovation sets Waad apart from her peers, there’s a constant search to refresh her work. “We are always trying to renew ourselves. Each collection is completely different from the previous one. I never attempt the same cut twice,” smiles the designer. The style evolution starts on a personal level and from the trends that guide what other women are wearing in the region. “Over the years, the abaya has become a piece of art that girls seek to wear at events, weddings, a celebration, or just casually to an outing. Women in the region have stopped settling for plain ordinary versions and are always on the lookout for unusual designs. They just love making a statement with their abayas,” she explains. The next season will see the label explore couture offerings, with pieces that steer towards feminine shades and detailed embroidery, a departure from the current collection’s warm palette. “It will be about cool colours that match everything,” she says. For more details and purchase enquiries write to waad.designs@gmail.com
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LEATHER MATTERS IT IS EVERLASTING ONLY IF WE KNOW HOW TO CARE FOR AND PROTECT IT.
Crossbody Bags from Kaizer
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Messenger Bags for the boys
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eather is the most universal organic material in the world of fashion, especially when it comes to accessories. Leather producers and major luxury houses pride themselves on providing the best possible animal skins through specialised farming and tanning standards, so it is only apt that we provide equal love to the leather pieces we bring home. Dubai-based lifestyle brand Kaizer Leather shares some top tips to maintain and keep leather looking soft and supple over time. Before you bring home that coveted bag, remember to choose leather that develops a rich patina and then let its life story start to show.
TIP 1 If leather gets too wet: Dry it slowly. Speed drying leather changes its chemical structure, and you end up with stiff crinkle cut chaos. Room temperature with gentle air works better than direct heater time with a hair-dryer. And keep it in the shape you want it to end up in.
TIP 2 If leather gets too dry: Rub something moist into it.
Pick a leather dressing or cream, preferably one recommended by the maker. Leathers can have paints, waxes, oils and all sorts of things applied to their surface, so you probably want to pick something similar to what it was first treated with.
TIP 3 If leather gets dirty: Just use a damp cloth. You don’t want to be putting any soaps or foreign substances on it.
TIP 4 Leather stretches out, but won’t shrink back: If you start to overfill a wallet, it will never really return to its former taut self. If you stretch a leather bag when wet or very humid, it will expand even faster. Learn to carry the right amount, and it will take care of itself.
TIP 5 Don’t wrap it in plastic: Going back to that Cryovac analogy, it helps to think of leather as having the life frozen rather than completely killed. What you’re really trying to stop is any mildew growth, so keep some ventilation going. Use a dust bag - all our bags come with one!
A selection of the brand’s Spring Summer 2015 collection
AL ANEEQ WHERE THE BIG BOYS COME OUT TO PLAY
PRECISION PIECE Baume & Mercier has chosen to focus on the very essence of watchmaking functions in this latest addition to the Clifton collection. The new model, with its pure, uncluttered dial, ensures immediate and pleasant readings, while the big date display in an aperture at 12 o’clock affords a truly elegant touch of originality. This understated watch, demonstrating meticulous attention to details, also features a powerreserve indicator at 6 o’clock, enabling its owner to be safe in the knowledge that it is sufficiently wound to maintain flawless operation.
ROCKING THE LOOK Lenny Kravitz rocked the house in style, as always. This time he did it in Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane for the Super Bowl halftime show.
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ESSENCE OF PERU Ermenegildo Zegna Parfums recently introduced Peruvian Ambrette to the exclusive Essenze Collection. Like the original fine fragrances of the Collection, Peruvian Ambrette is the expression of one signature raw material with its own unique provenance. The material, ambrette, comes from a very small yield of tiny seeds and a multi-step process, making it one of perfumery’s most expensive and rare ingredients. Derived from the San Martín region of Peru’s Amazonian rainforest, the seed produces a fragrant essential oil, a sweet rich musk with nutty undertones, which is considered the only natural non-animal musk ingredient in the fragrance industry.
MICHEAL KORS WHITE PERFUME Michael Kors has introduced its newest limited edition fragrance, Michael Kors White Eau de Parfum, inspired by the timeless fashion colour and the designer’s effortlessly glamorous style. The fragrance is a rich, new expression of the iconic tuberoseinfused Michael Kors and captures carefree elegance with a juxtaposition of sheer florals and radiant warmth.
STEP IT UP The latest installment of Puma’s eagerly anticipated collaboration with Parisian label BWGH has already created an impact. Since 2010 ‘Brooklyn We Go Hard’ (BWGH) founders David Obadia and Nelson Hassan have been at the forefront of urban culture, translating their experiences into iconic designs. The Parisian duo continue to take inspiration from Puma’s rich sporting heritage. The collection pulls additional inspiration from contemporary artist Ethan Cook, a born and raised New Yorker known for his square and rectangle prints. Ethan’s trademark colour palette of light grey, turquoise and navy blue is reflected throughout the collection, and gives an unmistakable slick urban edge.
82 \ AL ANEEQ EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE Santoni Men’s Spring/Summer 2015 Collection evokes the evolution of the male figure through a redefinition of a style inspired by classics, which won’t settle for certainties. The collection starts from a spontaneous approach towards materials and colours, while playing with the contamination of meanings through shapes, details and unusual combinations that become the representation of the manners, lifestyle and mentality of a new man.
FRAGRANT BEST
WE PICK THE BEST PERFUMES THAT ARE BUZZING RIGHT NOW.
INTENSE
ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE
STEEPED IN TRADITION
Regal, ardent and deep, Emblem Intense, the perfume by Montblanc, is a blend of nutmeg, cinnamon, rare woods and velvet suede, among others. A taste of apple with a touch of petals invigorates the spices to cause a stir and arrest attention.
“I love women’s fragrances and I love men’s fragrances. They make life more beautiful.” This is how, in 2014, Karl Lagerfeld described the basis of his new philosophy for perfumes and launched two signature scents, one for women and one for men. To celebrate their first anniversary, the creator has launched a new olfactory duo named Paradise Bay. It bursts with brightness and freshness.
In 1927, Jeanne Lanvin created the iconic Arpège fragrance for the birthday of her daughter Marguerite, a music enthusiast. In 2002,Lanvin launched Éclat d’Arpège as a tribute to this fabulous bond, a luminous floral scent that has captured women around the world. Éclat d’Arpège for Men naturally extends this story. This stylish modern composition captures the virile essence of today’s man and his naturally magnetic appeal. Éclat d’Arpège for Men is a classic fragrance: an invigorating, authentic and sensual scent that perpetuates the legend of this historic couture house.
GLAM / BEAUTY
BOOTY MARCH 2015
OUR CURATED BOX FOR ALL YOUR BEAUTY SOLUTIONS.
Russian model Daria Strokous presents a creation for Balmain during the 2015 Spring/ Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show, on September 25, 2014 in Paris. AFP PHOTO / PATRICK KOVARIK
SPRING MAKE-UP GLOW Offering a secret step towards natural beauty is Une. The French brand promises an even and corrects skin tone and offers a unique glow. Its talc-free formula has a load of comforting benefits including the added extra of SPF 15.
IsaDora, Europe’s best-selling cosmetics brand, has launched its Nude Essentials Spring Make-up Collection at stores in the UAE. IsaDora, the popular Swedish make-up brand, is one of the fastest-growing cosmetics brands in the UAE with products that are free of fragrance and clinically tested. The Nude Essentials collection consists of the Nude Sensation Fluid Foundation, the new Eye Colour Bar, Fine Liner Eye Stylo, the Perfect Moisture Lipstick, the Perfect Powder Rouge, Twist-Up Matt Lips, and the Eye Shadow Crease Brush.
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SIMPLE ELEGANCE The Hydra Beauty Micro SĂŠrum from Chanel is infused with Camellia Alba PFA (Polyfractioned Active, an ingredient created through an exclusive purification technique developed by Chanel), an active ingredient that promotes optimal moisture retention within the skin cells. When combined with an improved, more powerful version of Blue Ginger, a vital antioxidant, the perfect synergy of ultimate hydration and protection is created. The serum immediately hydrates and protects the skin. It comforts and boosts overall radiance and is ideal for all skin types.
BUZZ GLAM / BEAUTY
MARCH 2015
ALL IN THE EYES Bobbi Brown Cosmetics has introduced Long-Wear Gel Sparkle. This 2-in-1 liner and shadow hybrid takes high-impact and high-drama to a new level. Smudge, smoke, line or define using the new Dual-Ended Smudge/Ultra Fine Eye Liner Brush for eyes that can be metallic and glittery or subtle and sexy-perfect for backstage glamour or long-wearing, everyday chic.
How to Apply: To apply as a shadow, use the Cream Smudge end of the Dual-Ended Cream Smudge/Liner brush. Using short, sweeping brush strokes, layer colour on lids for the desired effect. For a more sheer effect, use fingertips to blend. To apply as a liner, use the Ultra-Fine Eyeliner end of the Dual Ended Cream Smudge/Liner brush. Dip tip (coat both
sides of brush head) and wipe off excess before applying to eye. Work quickly as product becomes transfer-resistant once dry. To remove, use Instant Long-Wear Makeup Remover. New, Long-Wear Gel Sparkle Shades: Night Sky, Thunderstorm, Sunlit Bronze, Smokey Topaz and Midnight Forest
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COLOUR CONFIDENCE The new Miracle Gel from Sally Hansen combines nail colour with high techno gel. Love the high shine, glossy look of a gel manicure, but could do without the complexity of LED lights, time consuming removal and the expensive price tag? The new, patented Miracle Gel, is the first-ever part lacquer, part gel manicure system that delivers up to 14 days of lasting colour and shine in just 2 easy steps. Simply apply two coats of the Miracle Gel Colour Coat, followed by the Miracle Gel Top Coat, to achieve the most convenient manicure, ever.
MOTHERS DAY TREATS
MOTHERS DELIGHT TOTAL BLISS Why not offer your mother a gift she’ll never forget? Get her to indulge in the new luxurious Turkish bath scrub and soap massage. A decadent ritual to rest mind, body and soul. Available at W Hotel’s Bliss Spa. Call 4453 5555 for details.
Give your mom a special treat from Bath & Body Works this Mother’s Day. The perfumes Forever Red and Forever Midnight make exceptional gift ideas. What’s more the perfumes come with neat bows to make that most special person in your life feel on top of the world.
EYE OPENING BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
OUR EYES ARE THE WINDOW TO OUR SOULS. THEY ARE ALSO OUR MOST SALIENT FEATURES. ON THE DOWNSIDE, THE EYES AGE FASTER THAN WE’D LIKE THEM TO, AND WE ARE HOPING FOR SOME TIME-REVERSING HELP FROM LA MER’S ILLUMINATING EYE GEL.
“I
believe the eyes are the most powerful form of attraction - and even more powerful in communication. A woman may not speak a word but her eyes will tell you everything. So it makes sense that the bigger and brighter your eyes, the more attractive and telling they will be,” says Loretta Miraglia, Corporate Senior Vice President of Global Brand Product Development and Innovation at La Mer. Loretta has been sculpting the skincare brand since 1996. Though she has dabbled in diverse industries such as television, aerospace and textile design, for the past 18 years, she has been regarded an innovator in the cosmetic field. The inspiration to create the new eye gel came by pairing opposites together. “I have always been fascinated by the idea of opposites and how harmonising two things that inherently would seem to be at odds with one another can create the most innovative and beautiful results,” says Loretta. With this product, La Mer attempts to show that opposites can converge to create something unique.
learn about what our expressions and our eyes actually say. They are a measure of emotions and truthfulness. At Massachusetts Information Technology there is a great deal of research being done in Biometrics, by measuring eye movements, which tell a lot about what a person is thinking and feeling. And in the field of health, they’re finding the eyes to be a reliable and incredible source of information. The simple fact that the eyes have so much power, truly made me wonder what can we do to enhance that law of attraction.” A true New Yorker by birth and a product designer by choice, Loretta has an instinct for invention and a taste for the future. La Mer’s founder, Dr. Max Huber continues to influence the brand. “Max is my inspiration - energy, material science, the wonder of physics - knowing that anything is possible, brings the future than much closer to our fingertips,” Loretta says. Unlike other eye creams, this gel is lightweight yet protective. “It’s calming and cooling on contact, yet energising, and provides a beautiful soft focus effect, yet it illuminates the whole eye area for a bright, wide-eyed look,” she says. Of course, external stressors constantly affect the eyes. “These include allergies, pollution, sun, smoking, lack of sleep, stress and life itself - but the number one underlying issue is inflammation.
“I believe the eyes are the most powerful form of attraction. A woman may not speak but her eyes will tell you everything.”
All in the eyes Eye health goes hand in hand with overall appearance and is highly sought after. Says Loretta, “There is amazing research to
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Inflammation is a nightmare for our eyes, causing so many problems like dark, tired and dull eyes,” explains Loretta. La Mer’s formidable ingredient, the ‘Miracle Broth’ is a powerful anti-irritant that visibly energises, renews and hydrates, giving back that powerfully attractive twinkle to the eyes. Loretta uses the product herself. “I keep one in my purse so it’s always on hand. This formula is a lightweight gel that cools and soothes on contact, so you feel a boost of energy. It also contains light-bending sea pearls for an effect that immediately illuminates the eye area. For me, it’s a perfect pick-me-up - whether I hit that tired afternoon slump, after the gym in the morning or if I’m getting ready for a dinner out - this gel helps to make me look more awake and energised,” she says. “Every day someone tells me how they’ve used the product in a new way: on the eyelids as a primer under eye shadow or paired with the Radiant Concealer under the eyes to create a natural, flawless glow. We are just beginning to learn the infinite possibilities.”
EASY DOES IT A specially designed acupressure technique helps awaken eyes at home or on the go. 1 Apply the gel around eyes with ring finger, ●
followed by gentle tapping movements.
2 Place ring fingers at inner brows and slide ●
along brows and temple.
3 Place ring fingers at inner corner of eyes and ●
slide under eyes to temples.
4 Glide ring fingers in circles around eyes. ● 5 Apply small circles at temples with ring fingers. ● 6 Cup hands and place them over eyes, gently ●
pressing and opening hands.
DON’T LOSE SLEEP BY CAMERON BLACK
The Key to a Healthier You? Achieving Quality Sleep!
S
leep is one of the most important factors to any healthy individual. Although the quantity needed may vary from person to person, quality is something everyone should strive for. To maximise your quality of sleep, you have to become familiar with and manage your Circadian Rhythm. Your circadian rhythm is your biological clock and it is influenced by many factors including your genes, light exposure, hormonal balance, physical activity and meal frequency. If your clock is ‘damaged’ due to stress, poor sleep habits, jet lag, overtraining, eating at the wrong time, or a combination of these things, it will be difficult to achieve a consistent good night’s sleep.
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HERE ARE FOUR QUICK TIPS TO MAXIMISE THE QUALITY OF YOUR CIRCADIAN RHYTHM AND IN TURN SLEEP! 1. EXPOSURE TO LIGHT AND ELECTRICAL SOURCES • Light shuts off melatonin (the hormone responsible for inducing sleep) therefore, spending time on electrical devices (TVs , phones, iPads, eReaders) can inhibit the release of the hormone and lead to problems in getting to sleep. Opt for a paperback book, preferably fiction, to ease you into dreamland. • Black-out curtains. Your room is your cave and we’re meant to sleep in complete darkness. Get your room as dark as you can and you will wake up feeling energised! • We are also meant to wake up with the sun so try to time your alarm clock appropriately and get that sunlight upon waking!
2. INTENSE ACTIVITY • Training in the evening has also been found to reduce melatonin release and increase cortisol (the stress hormone), which both lead to problems sleeping. • An altered cortisol curve may also compromise your circadian rhythms. A large spike in cortisol first thing in the morning is normal, followed by a gradual decrease to reach low levels in the evening. However, both physical and mental stress will cause cortisol to be elevated all day long, thereby affecting other hormones and the behaviors they regulate.
• The best time for physical activity is early afternoon for optimal performance. Save stressful events for earlier in the day and aim to calm down at night.
3. CAFFEINE • Caffeine should be avoided after 2 pm. Caffeine is a stimulant. The more dependent you are on caffeine, the more likely your quality of sleep will be negatively impacted.
4. MEAL TIMING AND FREQUENCY • People who regularly eat at night will inhibit sleep because it alters the balance of the hunger hormones; leptin and ghrelin, which affect melatonin. Eating a large amount of calories at night before bed goes against your circadian rhythm. • How to fix it? First, identify a meal frequency that works for you and allows you to avoid eating the bulk of your calories at night. Whether you choose two, three, five, or six meals a day, you’ve got to get your eating done a few hours before bed. If you’re shooting for a 10 pm bedtime, that means you need to finish eating by 7 or 7:30 pm.
TALK GLAM / SHOP
MARCH 2015
ROCK STAR WORTHY Paco Rabanne introduces two new limited edition original fragrances inspired by icons of rock music. The feminine fragrance bears the name of American singer Debbie Harry, the famous front woman of the new wave/ punk rock band Blondie. Black XS Be a Legend Debbie Harry contains the original composition of cranberry, pink pepper and tamarind, with a heart of violet, rose and cocoa and a base of patchouli, vanilla and massoia wood. Meanwhile, American singer Iggy Pop once again collaborates with the house and gives his signature to the new edition. Black XS Be a Legend Iggy Pop contains accords of lemon and sage, with a heart of cardamom, cinnamon, praline and tolu balsam, and a base of patchouli, black amber and rosewood.
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NINA RICCI Nina Ricci invites women to explore their own skin. With the new creation, L’Extase, Nina Ricci embraces the dream of a woman in tune with herself. A woman who asserts the right to experience pleasure with all her senses. The bold perfume comes in a no-fuss yet elegant bottle, rose-tinted and sophisticated.
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IF YOU LOVE IT, WEAR IT We love the new philosophy of Banana Republic’s Spring ‘15 collection. This season, it’s all about breaking the rules: showing everyone how to mix and match their favourite pieces to get a modern twist on classic looks. This season, soft pink is the new neutral. Mix soft pants with a structured jacket for the perfect pairing. Sometimes, it’s all about the accessories. Whether it’s a statement necklace or a soft leather handbag, these could make the outfit.
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ONE IN A MILLION
Salam Stores unveiled the lucky winner of the 1 Million QAR Wardrobe raffle at the Gate Mall recently. The winner was chosen in February under the supervision of the Ministry of Economy and Commerce. Pierre Khoury, Managing Director and Elodie Chauderon, Regional
Marketing Manager of Salam Stores, were the ones to present the award to Khaled Mahmoud Hamo, Chairman of Governor West Bay Suites. During the event, people mingled with a fashion crowd made up of Doha-based bloggers, young designers, stylists and consultants.
RE-OPENING OF CH CAROLINA HERRERA
CH Carolina Herrera is planning to re-open its flagship store in Qatar. The new 253 square metres store, located in Villagio Mall is home to the world’s most iconic luxury fashion and jewellery brands. Inspired by the luxurious interiors found in Arabic architecture, the CH store offers a collection that covers everything from casual sportswear to impeccably tailored suits as well as elegant evening clothes for both men and women. The ambience of the store is both sensual and welcoming due, to the warmly colorued Berber tents lit by lanterns and the fabric-covered ceilings which are predominant at the entrance area. The beautiful low Ottoman-style benches complemented by luxurious silk and velvet cushions, create a feeling of home for visitors. Reflecting the patios found in Umayyad palaces, paper lanterns; gently enhance the light and create a warm and welcoming space. The store offers women’s, men’s and accessories collections and for the first time a private room exclusively dedicated to small leather goods and sophisticated jewellery collections. Come and enjoy the evocative and welcoming space of the new CH Carolina Herrera boutique in Villagio Mall.
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THE EAGLE LANDS The American brand, American Eagle Outfitters, made its debut in Qatar with the launch of its first outlet in Villagio Mall, Doha’s premium retail destination. American Eagle Outfitters is known around the world for offering great fashion at affordable prices. Focusing
on what’s new and trendy, and with denim always at its core, the brand offers a wide range of clothing, accessories and personal care products. Doha’s new store is the brand’s 26th in the Middle East and reflects its American origin and style. With its brick walls and wood paneling, the
store offers an absolutely authentic ambience and a relaxed shopping experience. The store opened with the new 2015 Spring Collection, which focuses on individual style and is supported by a marketing campaign filled with freespirited and real people.
SHOW STOPPERS
Desigual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid 2015
VILLAGGIO MALL - VIP AREA - GATE 8 - 44643533