Glam november 2014

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Contents

50 IN MEMORIAM

Oscar De la Renta was one of the world’s most eminent designers, who possessed a mastery of European couture. His recent passing deeply saddened friends, fans and fashion followers. We look back at a life well and truly lived.

52 A FINAL BOW

GLAM

QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .C O M

NOVEMBER 2014

As legendary designer Jean Paul Gaultier presented his final womenswear show, we discover what made this a collection worth remembering.

54 ROYAL SPECIAL

We list some of the best dressed modern day queens and princesses who are truly a class apart – sans the crown jewels and tiaras.



Contents 62 A GOOD SPORT

The collaboration of the year between Alexander Wang and H&M has all the elements that define fashion at this moment in time. In an exclusive interview with the designer, find out what makes active wear so contemporary.

68 STACEY WEARS THE PANTS

On a quest to find the perfect pair of pants, that flatters all the right curves in all the right places, Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Benedet shares how the legendary ‘Stacey’s Pants’ was born.

72 WHEN LESS IS MORE

As her designs are showcased for the first time in Doha, founder and designer Daniela Karnuts offers an exclusive insight into the makings of her label, Safiyaa.

76 THIS MUCH I KNOW

From former Pussycat Dolls band member to solo singer to reality show judge, Nicole Scherzinger has certainly come a long way. She gives us a candid insight into her life and shares why she calls London home.

78

WORK OF ART

From abayas to jalabiyas the emerging label Rocaille, is charting a new course with hand-painted art that lends a personalised feel to each of their pieces. The brand is spearheaded by two Emirati sisters, who share the inspiration behind their debut collection.

GLAM

QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2014

ON THE COVER NICOLE SCHERZINGER CREDIT: FABULOUS MAGAZINE / NI SYNDICATION



GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA

EDITOR

SINDHU NAIR DEBRINA ALIYAH

CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS

ABIGAIL MATHIAS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI AYSWARYA MURTHY

PHOTOGRAPHER

ROB ALTAMIRANO

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

VENKAT REDDY

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

HANAN ABU SIAM

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

MAHESHWAR REDDY B

SENIOR MANAGER – MARKETING

FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER – MARKETING

ASSISTANT MANAGER – MARKETING

AYUSH INDRAJITH

SAKALA A. DEBRASS THOMAS JOSE MATHEWS CHERIAN

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS

HASAN REKKAB

LYDIA YOUSSEF

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT

PRATAP CHANDRAN BIKRAM SHRESTHA ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA. P

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF

YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia enters its 29th season with headliners including Alena Akhmadullina, Dasha Gauser, Ester Abner, Yasya Minochkina showcasing their SS15 collections. Stay up to date with show highlights and look of the day picks from our team on our Facebook page.

EVENTS OF THE MONTH Official Launch of Per Lei Couture Nov 6 Per Lei Couture Boutique, The Pearl Qatar The city’s latest multi-brand boutique, Per Lei Couture, will be hosting an opening event night to officially launch its arrival into the local fashion scene. The boutique is currently home to one of the most varied collections of labels including Teatum Jones, Gyodor Folan, and Delpozo. The event will feature London-based designer Osman Yousefzada as the guest of honor for the evening. Maker’s Market November 15 and 16 Design Shop, Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar A special two-day trunk show and market featuring an array of unique finds which are all handmade and independently produced by mixed-medium designers. Hosted by the Design Shop, the event is part of VCUQ’s effort to highlight the creative work of its students and the community. The designers come from all fields including fashion, homeware, jewellery and gifts. Visitors will also get the chance to meet and interact with the independent creative creators.

SANDEEP SEHGAL

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

ALPANA ROY

VICE PRESIDENT

RAVI RAMAN

COMING UP

GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL. THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION. CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982

What do you get when you put a gorgeous model on the sky-high Eiffel Tower? That’s what global fashion show organiser Jessica Minh Anh did in a gravity-defying editorial as part of her J Autumn Fashion Show. We get an exclusive interview with the fashion entrepreneur on her out-of-the-world ideas.



Contributors DIANA FARID A wife and mother of twin babies whose best life companion is her passion for writing. She gets inspired from her daily interactions to shed light on inspiring success stories. Through writing, she tries to make sense of the senseless world, replacing pain with laughter, and inspire hope when everything seems to be falling apart. She is the founder of Twin Mummy Diary’s blog as well as a feature writer for multiple publications in Egypt and across the Gulf. Shopping for her is beyond an addiction. Being productive is what keeps her going and being appreciated fuels her motivation.

TAMSIN DUPLESSIS Tamsin Duplessis, the Manager of the Remede Spa at The St. Regis Doha, studied cosmetology in Cape Town, South Africa. She has over ten years of experience in the health and beauty industry, specialising in skincare; she is trained in a number of specialty facial therapies and is a qualified trainer.

YOUR VOICE ON TWITTER, FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM Responding to our October cover Likes: Fatima Ameer, Sharon Wilson Dass, Milano Mannequins Sarl, Diana Youssef, Melanie Felchner, Rolita P Pungyan, Maila Torres Our October fashion shoot Likes: Janela J Caton, Mika Lombard, Munira Maricar, Angelique De Lange, CH Jahanzeb, Fashionnoiz.

CARLA MALLARI Founder of Qatar’s first street-style blog, Nomad*, Carla is a fashion design graduate who leans towards the experimental side. Currently producing select pieces of her own designs while working for wardrobe departments of various ventures, she brings fashion ideas to life through styling and street photography.

LETTERS My girls and I are probably the biggest Salman Khan fans around. Reading your feature with the heart throb made my month. S. Sabawala

ANGEL MALLARI Michael Angelo Mallari, or widely known as Angel Mallari, has been a steadfast with the GLAM team shooting an array of lifestyle and fashion-inspired photographs for our pages. Experimenting with lights and perspectives, Angel is always on the lookout for the next Great Picture. The fun loving and creative photographer can be found at www.thescenestealer.com

Nice feature on spectacular Maldives. It is definitely on my list of places to see in this lifetime. Rose Maer Thanks for the hair styling tips in your last issue. They were a life saver! Rina N.A.



G Talk ctober was a month that saw many fashion headlines. It was a time when the fashion world bid farewell to one of its most talented designers, Oscar de la Renta, who passed away after a long battle with cancer, at the age of 82. Tributes have filled pages since his death but the most poignant was Anna Wintour’s where she called him the most democratic man she ever knew and termed Annette and Oscar’s marriage as the greatest, most life-enhancing love affair. GLAM bids farewell to a true gentleman. Last month one brilliant designer took a final bow from the world of ready-to-wear while another disgraced designer returned from exile. While Jean Paul Gaultier decided to devote quality time to couture and perfumes, John Galliano’s return to the fashion industry as the designer of Martin Margiela had mixed reactions from the stalwarts of fashion. A Guardian writer says “pretending an issue isn’t there doesn’t make it go away; it just makes you look out of touch. And fashion can’t be out of touch, or it isn’t fashion.” There were many who welcomed this turn of fashion at the Margiela house, and we agree that the designer should be given a chance to shine once more. On a positive note, fashion retailers are keeping their conscience and particularly heartening is this news of H & M blacklisting a spinning mill in southern India after a report claimed that five manufacturers there used child labour and subjected workers, mostly women and girls, to “appalling” working conditions. GLAM, in this issue, follows the style set by royalty and in the pages inside you can pick your personal favourite style leader. We feel especially proud to present Alexander Wang’s collaboration with our current beloved brand H&M. You can now comprehend how performance clothing is perfected by Wang in an affordable manner. GLAM meets the designer Stacey Bendet of Alicia+Olivia, whose boutique has just opened in Qatar. We also meet the elegant lady behind brand Safiyaa whose designs are as impressive as the designer herself. Most exciting to us is when regional talent reaches out to the world and stuns. In this issue, we talk to two Emirati designers, Shamma and Hessa Al Hameli, of Rocaille. These simple and beautiful interpretations of the brand will surely tug at your sensibilities and stimulate you.

EDITOR’S PICK GLAM SALUTES OSCAR DE LA RENTA’S LAST OFFERING AT THE MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK SPRING 2015 ON SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 IN NEW YORK CITY. HIS IRREVOCABLE STYLE LIVES ON.



GLAM / NEWS

NOVEMBER 2014

VICTORIA OPENS HER FIRST STORE

Former Spice Girl, Victoria Beckham, has opened her first store at 36 Dover Street, London. Designed by the multi-awardwinning London-based architect, Farshid Moussavi, the three-storey Mayfair space brings together the refined materials, artisanal craftsmanship and modern design language, for which the fashion brand is recognised. Farshid Moussavi Architecture has united all three floors of the 560-squaremetre space, bringing luminosity and striking sightlines through the interior. Elegance and ingenuity underpin a flexible interior scheme devised to complement, rather than overpower the clothing on display. Smooth American walnut and bottle-green glass surfaces accentuate generous changing rooms and cash/wrap areas, designed for a discreet and personal shopping experience. Victoria Beckham has personally selected pieces for the store’s launch, several of which are unique to 36 Dover Street and victoriabeckham.com customers. A range of small leather goods will be debuted, including a small and large pocketed pouch, a journal, a wallet, a credit card holder, key rings and key chains - all produced in soft calfskin.



24 \ NEWS BUZZ COACH BACKSTAGE LAUNCHED WITH A NEW YORK CONCERT

Banks and the Zoë Kravitz (daughter of Lenny Kravitz) fronted band, Lolawolf, performed at the launch of Coach Backstage, the brand’s latest project supporting new and emerging musical talent on Coach.com. For more than 70 years, Coach has been inspired by the sounds of New York City and the legendary performers who got their start there. Coach Backstage will focus on noteworthy bands and artists on the verge of sucess who reflect the independent, dynamic attitude and spirit of Coach. “Music is a big part of my life and something that inspires my work every day. Zoë and Banks are talented artists, cool girls with a free spirited attitude, they embody what Coach is today. I am so happy they are inaugurating our Coach Backstage series,” said Stuart Vevers, Creative Director at Coach.

JOHN GALLIANO TO JOIN MARGIELA

Maison Martin Margiela has announced the appointment of rockstar designer John Galliano, as its creative director. Alongside his serious couture skills, the British designer has always been known as the epitome of fashion exuberance, drama and showmanship, which very often put him on the centre stage too. The list of extravangant outfits worn as he strutted out onto the catwalk to take his bows, runs long. Final forgiveness for Galliano Galliano spent plenty of time out in the cold after his shocking arrest and prosecution for anti-Semitic rants in Paris, followed by a public apology and lengthy treatment for addiction issues. His public penance seems to have worked. In February last year he was defended by the Anti-Defamation League after continued tabloid attacks. “Mr. Galliano has been on a pilgrimage to learn from and grow from his mistakes,” explained Abraham H. Foxman, ADL the National Director. “He is trying very hard to atone.” Later last year he was welcomed into the atelier of the late Oscar de la Renta in New York City, where he helped with the 82-yearold’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection, but he didn’t stay permanently. He’s also spent some time as a creative director at the Russian cosmetics company L’Etoile. This latest role suggests that both the designer and the public are ready for his return to the spotlight. We can’t wait to see the results. Courtesy : Relaxnews



26 \ NEWS FASHION BUZZ

QELA ANNOUNCES FALL/WINTER COLLECTION

Qatar’s first international homegrown luxury brand, QELA, recently held a preview of the Fall/Winter14-15 collection with an exclusive presentation from each of the brand’s workshops, at its boutique, at The Pearl. This included the leather goods’ customisation services, jewellery prototyping demonstrations, shoe assembly and stitching, as well as couture sewing samples. The event was attended by Sheikha Noor bint Hamad Al Thani, official spokesperson and brand image VP, as well as some of QELA’s skilled artisans who held live demonstrations on available products. QELA is Qatar’s first global fashion brand, and draws its inspiration from a Qatari heritage, which is reflected in the aesthetics of the collections. The brand reflects a mix of modesty, generosity and openness to new cultures. It is heavily influenced by art and culture, and their timeless qualities. Qatar Luxury Group, a multi-brand luxury group, launched QELA as part of Qatar’s 2030 vision to transform Qatar into a knowledge-based economy by creating a fashion industry. Since its launch in September 2013, the brand has seen success within the local and expat communities leading up to the current collection. “The Autumn/ Winter 14-15 collection embodies the heart of QELA’s DNA; it brings out the balance between liberated creativity and century-old craftsmanship with an unshakeable

sense of its own identity and values. This collection expresses supreme confidence, elegance in modesty, and the freedom of the desert wind,” said Sheikha Noor bint Hamad Al Thani. QELA brings the image of the falcon to high fashion this autumn and winter. From embroidered feathers to organic lines that are as fluid as a wingbeat, the new collection explores feminine assurance and classic couture through the colours, textures and silhouette of this iconic, airborne traveller. The new collection features much of the brand’s signature mashrabiya-inspired fluid organic shapes. The mashrabiya is in the heart of Qatar’s culture, seen in traditional lounge areas, and private salons where Arabian women used to gather. The intricate details of the mashrabiya reflect a sense of modesty and intimacy. “The bisht is a traditional Arabian cloak, famously known to be worn by men on formal occasions and historically also worn by women. It is known for its unique golden embroidery around the edges. In our latest collection, several couture items are embroidered with a rich restraint round neck and chest, in bands of clouded gold and silver,” adds Sheikha Noor bint Hamad Al Thani. The brand places an emphasis on the preservation of age-old craftsmanship and know-how, and creates pieces of the very highest standards anywhere in the world.



GLAM / SHOP

NOVEMBER 2014

SIMPLE PLEASURES International retailer and manufacturer, Le Château, creates contemporary fashion apparel, accessories, and footwear at value pricing for style-conscious women and men of all ages. The brand is available in Qatar’s Ezdan Mall. The Fall 2014 line takes its inspiration from some of the hottest trends on the runways of Milan, Paris, London and New York. From grungy appeal to more polished career looks, this season’s range carries edgy trims and accessories with a fashionforward, elevated effect. Must haves include knitted throw-overs, overcoats and plaid detailing.

CONTEMPORARY COWBOY Philipp Plein’s Fall/Winter 2014/15 mens collection, Noir Cowboy, portrays a strong, hedonistic form of physicality, sculpted by impeccable elegance and bearing, yet toned down with westernstyle details and playful touches. Numerous jackets in embellished leathers, a soft nappa blazer composed of panels hand assembled with thin nappa strips and minute threaded edging and hand brushed and painted snakeskin are part of the collection. Tartan prints are also used for pocket squares, bandanas and scarves. The accessories include a multitude of must-have boots, in particular a version in tumbled leather with crocodile patches, that may be combined with backpacks, rucksacks, bags and holdalls of all shapes and sizes. Naomi Campbell and Lindsay Lohan have been some of the prominent faces that have represented the Swiss brand.



30 \ SHOP TALK HAPPY FEET The Alberto Guardiani woman for the next Autumn/Winter 2014-15 season is inspired by impeccable university team uniforms and the exciting space missions of Eileen Collins, the first woman who commanded and piloted a Space Shuttle. Materials such as suede and patent leather, refined ‘crown’ inlays, and the closures typical of more stylised uniforms, are combined with innovative gold-laminated leather and the application of small golden cages on the toes of the pumps and ankle boots. The heels and their heights are the main players in this new collection, like the Luly style, where the stiletto heel varies from 50 mm, to 70 mm, and up to 100 mm. The space shoe runs the gamut of variations: perhaps a pump or an ankle boot in patent leather, with details in golden laminated calfskin that form an arrow shape at the toe, which is also in black suede with a calfskin leather toe. The restyled Madonna pump stands out for its golden teardrop platform combined with other features. The heels, in different heights and shapes, take their inspiration from boyish stlyes but are highly covetted in any woman’s wardrobe. One style that truly stands out is in the shape of a butterfly wing, and comes in four all-new versions: the oxidized silver or contrasting gold heel with deep black contours; iridescent silicone patent leather with raised iridescent details that change colour from teal to amethyst purple; to a veritable jewelled heel studded with black and silver Swarovski crystals. All of the heels also are combined with sandals, with an upper in black suede, in raised dot calfskin leather, in snakeskin or in suede with Swarovski applications.

THE FACE OF BEAUTY Fashionistas from across the region recently gathered to celebrate the launch of the exciting new make-up line, Wow by Wojooh. The event was held at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel, Dubai. Pink neon lights lit up the venue, giving the perfect backdrop for all who attended. Draped lounge areas welcomed the guests who were greeted by make-up specialists - giving them the low down on all of the featured items. Live music filled the air as make-up artists offered makeovers to all guests and divulged all of their beauty secrets, tips and tricks.



32 \ FASHION 3 ●

3 ●

1 ●

1 ● 1 ●

SAVE

VS

2 ●

SPLURGE 2 ●

SPLIT SIDE 4 ●

Two of this season’s major trends could not be more than polar opposite apart. The 20th century art-inspired floral motifs and the rise of the tough biker leather evoke both femininity and no-nonsense silhouette-driven chic. Separately, they may present different looks, but when worn together, they form an underlying narrative that many designers are trying to convey this season: the strength of women through the feminine touch. A full leather look is necessary this Autumn, and must be delicately accompanied by a floral overcoat or Art Deco-inspired accessories. We are totally lusting after the long Dior Flower glove that brings the best of the two trends together.

4 ●

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH 5 ●

SAVE

SPLURGE

1 Floral Cropped Top, ●

1 Harley-print Coat, QR2,033, ●

2 Floral Skirt, QR456 ● 3 Cut-out Sweater, QR276 ● 4 Leather Pants, QR1,146 ● 5 Leather Gloves, QR184 ●

2 Harley-print Skirt, QR2,295, ●

QR184

5 ●

All items available from H&M at Landmark and Villaggio Mall.

Issa, Etoile Boutique. Issa, Etoile Boutique.

3 Leather-insert Top, QR1,870, ●

Karl Lagerfeld.

4 Stretch Leather Leggings, ●

5,780, Matthew Williamson, The Gate Mall. 5 Lambskin Gloves with Iris Print, ● price on request, Dior, Villaggio Mall.



AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

THE BALLERINA BUTTERFLY

The Ballerina Butterfly Brooch, co-designed by contemporary fine jewellery artist Cindy Chao and actress, entrepreneur and philanthropist Sarah Jessica Parker, was auctioned on October 7th at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Sale for QR4,413,980. QR1,092,569 in proceeds from the sale will benefit the New York City Ballet, a cause which both designer are extremely passionate about. The brooch was completed over the course of two years, inspired by the graceful beauty and elegance of ballet. It displays the sensibility, delicate structure, strength and mellifluous movement exhibited by a ballerina. Cindy began the creative process by building a wax model of the piece, as she does with all of her Black Label Masterpiece creations. The 'Ballerina Butterfly' brooch melds Chao’s craftsmanship as one of the jewellery world’s premier artists together with Sarah’s discerning eye for style and design. Constructed of a titanium and 18-karat gold body, it features a cushion-cut fancy brown diamond weighing 26.27 carats, three rough brown diamond slices of 47.71 carats, three pieces of conch pearls weighing 7.25 carats in total, and is surrounded by 4,698 diamonds and fancy-colored diamonds weighing 98.09 carats in total. “I have had the great pleasure of knowing Cindy and her work for several years, and it has been an incredibly special experience to collaborate with her,” Sarah says. “Cindy’s jewellery designs are true works of art; they capture the eye and imagination in a memorable way. I am so pleased to partner with her on this project, which benefits the wonderful work of the New York City Ballet, an organisation that is close to my heart.”



36 \ TRENDS CHANEL HAUTE JEWELLERY

Chanel’s Autumn Winter Couture collection presentation was complemented by the house’s stunning haute-jewellery pieces, which draw inspiration from the rich social life of Coco Chanel. Paying homage to the café society of the 1920's, which was a favourite meeting point for the creative and artistic crowd of the time. Mademoiselle Chanel was a wellknown patron of the arts and an active participant in the cultural scene. The jewellery collection represents the spirit of Chanel’s quest for novelty and the atmosphere of freedom associated with the 1920's. Breaking free from codes and traditions, the pieces feature rose, white and yellow gold mingled with precious stones, with the camellia flower – a favourite of Chanel's – making a few appearances.

RAD HOURANI FALL WINTER 2014

Jordan-born designer Rad Hourani, a cult favourite of the Paris fashion scene, presented his Fall Winter 2014 show at the residence of the Canadian Ambassador to France. The thirty-twoyear old designer who specialises in unisex pieces was raised in Canada and has made a name for his design-driven concepts on the international scene. His distinctively minimalistic, unisex pieces, are not necessarily the aesthetics that are common to designers hailing from this region ,but it been changing the stereotype. The current collection plays with plenty of tight, elongated and wrapped forms, worn by male and female models in square-toed shoes and opentoed boots. The wide lapels and plethora of pockets add a functional element to Hourani’s outerwear, while a series of pieces in leather and others, in sequins add some dressier, more obviously luxurious elements to play with. Colours stick to deep dark green, black, and an equally brooding metallic tweed.



38 \ TRENDS

ATELIER SWAROVSKI X VIKTOR & ROLF

Atelier Swarovski goes avant-garde this season in a special collaboration with fashion house Viktor & Rolf, that features statement pieces with sparkling and matte crystals in black diamonds and Jet colour ways. The collection has two ranges that explore both the matte and glistening texture – Velvet Rock, that embeds crystals within velvet flocking and Frozen Crystal that juxtaposes matte and sparkling crystals. “We wanted to put crystals on edge and give them a sense of mystery, as well as play with their contrasting matte and shining effects. By juxtaposing sparkling and velvet-covered crystals, we emphasise their brilliance and add a touch of surreal glamour. Through a long history of creative partnership and mutual understanding, we were able to achieve these technically difficult pieces together with Atelier Swarovski,” the design duo explains. The collection was inspired by the interiors of Viktor & Rolf ’s first flagship boutique in Paris, which is rendered entirely in grey felt. The Frozen Crystal collection is now available at the Swarovski boutique in Landmark Mall.



40 \ TRENDS

WAFA BY WAFA

After the success of her clothing label, Dubai-based designer Wafa, has ventured into the realm of accessories with her debut jewellery line ‘wafa by wafa.’ The pieces cater to the modern global citizen, much like the designer herself – who is not overtly trend-conscious, but rather influenced in style by travel and experience. The ‘wafa by wafa’ pieces represent the duality present in women, a juxtaposition of the softer, sensitive, feminine side against the bolder personalities. Still very much driven by her multicultural upbringing and extensive travels, Wafa presents her take on jewellery for the modern woman. Wafa’s first collection is an ode to the nomad, the drifter, the gypsy. From the Maasai of Kenya, to the Akha of Burma, the collection is inspired by tribal culture and the transiency of today’s world. She brings to life a collection of narratives, an amalgamation of the different facets of personalities; from yogi meets glamazon, to jetsetter meets bohemian romantic.



42 \ TRENDS

CENTRE STAGE THE REBELLIOUS SPIRIT GOES HEAD TO HEAD WITH THE COLD COMFORT OF AUTUMN IN FOUR MUST-HAVE TRENDS THIS SEASON. Paule Ka

Karl Lagerfeld

LEATHER A full-on leather dress that nips at all the right places is the ultimate investment this season, mirroring the leather trend that popped up all the over the runways: eye-catching pleats at Lanvin, leather and shearling contrast at Anthony Vaccarello, woven African tribal influences at Balmain and waist-cinched numbers at Balenciaga.

Buckled leather dress by Jason Wu at Farfetch

Versace

Lanvin

Tod's

Crocodile Backpack by The Row at Farfetch

Leather pleated pants by Vionnet at STYLEBOP



44 \ TRENDS Matthew Williamson

Rabbit-Felt Virgine Shaded Hat by Maison Michel from STYLEBOP

Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane

RETRO It just does not go away but we are loving it. Referencing the flower power of the pre-millennial decades are Saint Laurent’s sparkling shift dresses and Valentino’s geometric visual fiesta.

Satin Ruffle Mini skirt by Anthony Vaccarello from STYLEBOP

Max & Co

Matthew Williamson

Delpozo



46 \ TRENDS

M Missoni

Salvatore Ferragamo

A.F. Vandevorst

Nicholas Kirkwood at Level Shoe District

Rick Owens

Marc Jacobs

BOOTS

Haircalf Patchwork Ankle Boots by Laurence Dacade at STYLEBOP

Several years ago, the attempt at thighhigh boots did not really catch on, but the trend seems to be back bigger and better (albeit knee-high length remains the preferred choice). Rick Owens plays up the sports influence with rubberstyle soles, Nicholas Kirkwood puts his signature into laser-cut patterns and Carven goes for exact lengths, by matching boot with dress hems.



48 \ TRENDS

Haider Ackermann

Fleece Wool Sydney Coat by Jil Sander from STYLEBOP

Paul Smith

Timo Weiland

Oversized blanket coat by Lanvin at Farfetch

Massimo Dutti

WOOLS Plain wool goes upmarket this season with covetable soft and luxe renditions from Isabel Marant and Sonia Rykiel. Haider Ackermann combines soft wools with felted wool outerwear, while CĂŠline goes for ribbed versions of both sweaters and pants.



50 \ TRENDS

TAKE FIVE WITH

MANISH ARORA THE STELLAR DESIGNER SPEAKS ABOUT HIS SS15 COLLECTION.

What’s the key piece in this collection and why? I would like to believe that every piece is important and key. What female icon could be the face of this collection? Grimes, the singer. We think of her going to places like the Burning Man Festival. A strong, independent, experimental woman! What was the initial spark or starting point for this season? Iridescence, pastels, layering were some of the words that sparked the start of this collection. Can you sum up the collection in one word? It’s beautifully illusive! What was the biggest challenge you encountered when creating this collection? Challenge – I am not sure, but it was an exciting and a new journey for us, experimenting with layering silhouettes yet keeping them airy and light at the same time.


TRENDS / 51 Positano loafers from CB Made In Italy

Crystal embellished pumps by Julia Haart at Farfetch

DSquared

READY TO RUMBLE Pounding hard on the runway these days are shoes that are not just meant for walking, they look as though they are ready to rumble for the tough walk. Sneakers, military-inspired boots, and sturdy loafers bring an extra edge from run-of-the-mill ballet flats, giving an instant lift to your wardrobe. We also suggest taking a walk on the wild side, by including a pair of stand-out stilettos for the party season to complete your shoe collection. It’s all in the details, with a tuft of fur from Fendi and an ankle-lock inspired number from DSquared.

DSquared

Fendi

Dr Martens at Farfetch Fendi

MCQ by Alexander McQueen at FarFetch

New Balance at FarFetch

Coach AW2014


52 \

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OSCAR , WITH LOVE

TRIBUTES POURED IN SHORTLY AFTER THE PASSING OF THE DOMINICANBORN DESIGNER, WHO MOVED TO NEW YORK IN THE 1960S AND DEFINED AMERICAN FASHION OVER FIVE DECADES, CREATING A MULTIMILLION-DOLLAR FASHION HOUSE.

Oscar de la Renta attending the official opening of The Costume Institute’s new Anna Wintour Costume Centre at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York earlier this year. AFP PHOTO / Files / Stan HONDA


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scar de la Renta passed away at home in Connecticut on Monday, surrounded by friends and family. He was 82 and had been diagnosed with cancer in 2006. “He died exactly as he lived: with tremendous grace, great dignity and very much on his own terms,” said his step-daughter Eliza and son-in-law Alex Bolen. “While our hearts are broken by the idea of life without Oscar, he is still very much with us,” the pair wrote, in a handwritten note posted on the company’s website. “Through Oscar’s example, we know the way forward. We will make Oscar very proud of us, by continuing in an even stronger way the work that Oscar loved so much.” De la Renta was one of the world’s most eminent designers, and possessed a mastery of European couture. Most recently, he designed the wedding dress for British human rights lawyer Amal Alamuddin, who wed the Hollywood star George Clooney in Venice last month. His couture and ready-to-wear, with their signature romantic glamour, were favoured by first ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy to Laura Bush, and Hollywood stars such as Sarah Jessica Parker. Former president Bill Clinton and wife Hillary, who is tipped to run for the White House in 2016, paid tribute to a “dear friend”. “His singular talent and exquisite taste elevated American fashion, and his warmth and friendship will be missed by our family and all whose lives he touched,” the Clintons said. “We will miss Oscar’s generous and warm personality, his charm, and his wonderful talents,” said former first lady Laura Bush. Celebrities and fellow designers took to Twitter to express praise for the two-time president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who married European artistry with American ease. “Oscar created a whole world of luxury, style, and elegance all his own,” wrote designer Vera Wang. Born on July 22, 1932 in the Dominican Republic, de la Renta studied art in Madrid and worked as an apprentice to Cristobal Balenciaga before embarking on his own career. In 1960, he became an assistant at Lanvin in Paris, where he embedded himself in the world of haute couture before moving to the United States to work for Elizabeth Arden. He created his eponymous label in 1965 and gradually became one of the most lauded New York designers, helping to put American fashion on the map and inspiring generations of younger designers. He created clothes of timeless elegance, regal glamour and sophistication that were a hit with Manhattan ladies, Hollywood actresses and members of royalty. He became a US citizen in 1969 and was the first American designer appointed to a prominent role at a European house, as he designed haute couture collections for Pierre Balmain, from 1993 to 2002. He built up a hugely successful, family-run company that produced two runway shows a year in New York, that included ready-to-wear, accessories, fragrances, childrenswear, bridalwear and a home line. Popular and charming, de la Renta forged close friendships and entertained generously at his homes in New York,

Archived works from Oscar de la Renta that were part of a special exhibition held at the Bush Centre in Texas to celebrate the legacy of the designer.

Connecticut or the Dominican Republic with people from all walks of life – from the Clintons to Henry Kissinger to the late writer Truman Capote. In 1967, he married Francoise de Langlade, an editor at French Vogue, and in 1989, six years after her death, he wed American publisher Annette Reed. In an interview with New York Magazine last year, de la Renta reminisced about his long career. “It’s unbelievably extraordinary to remember that when I came to New York, it was a time when women couldn’t wear a pair of pants to a restaurant,” he said. “What women have achieved in the last 50 years, I wish men would have achieved in the last 100. I’m sorry to say it, but we’re really stupid.” He is survived by his second wife, a son and three stepchildren. AFP Relax News


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A FINAL BOW

A LEGENDARY DESIGNER, WHOSE CELEBRATED CAREER INCLUDES CHARTING THE PRET-A-PORTER GROWTH FOR HERMÉS, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER PRESENTED HIS FINAL WOMENSWEAR SHOW DURING THE SPRING SUMMER 2015 PARIS FASHION WEEK.

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he announcement came at a time when designers are increasingly pressured into producing innumerable collections yearly and finding it difficult to keep up with the global market’s demand for fresh stimulations (though sometimes, only for shock effect). Jean Paul Gaultier will now be concentrating on couture work and special collaborations, starting off with a capsule collection with European high-street chain Lindex, that has about nearly sold out with ten percent of profits going to breast-cancer research charities. The former enfant terrible of French fashion – regarded by many as the designer who wrote the rules on ready-to-wear – is

known worldwide for his outlandish imagination, designing Madonna’s cone-shaped bras and putting real people on the catwalk. The 62-year-old Frenchman is also famed for the cult “Eurotrash” programme he presented with Antoine de Caunes on British television in the 1990s. Earlier this month Gaultier cited the frenetic pace of the modern fashion industry as his decision to bow out after nearly 40 years. Appearing on stage after the show, the designer was mobbed by friends and well-wishers wanting to pay tributes to him. “It’s very nice, it’s beautiful. I think it was a beautiful show.


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I am very happy it succeed very well,” a delighted-looking Gaultier told AFP, speaking in his trademark rapid-fire, slightly ungrammatical English. “I feel very happy, we will see what else, a lot of thing, a lot of other projects but for today, it’s marvellous and super, super happy,” he added. The collection, crammed with Gaultier signatures such as stripes and corsets and accompanied by a largely 1980s soundtrack, marked the end of an era in fashion. Considered one of France’s all-time most talented designers, Gaultier got his start in fashion as an assistant to Pierre Cardin in 1970. He launched himself in ready-to-wear in 1976 at a time of high creativity for the industry and later moved into couture in 1997. Donald Potard, a childhood friend and Gaultier’s former business partner of 40 years, said he had been saddened, but not surprised by Gaultier’s decision. Potard, who is no longer close to Gaultier since splitting in 2005, recalled how, as a schoolboy, Gaultier would put on his own amateur fashion shows twice a year. “Jean Paul was always an innovator... He was designing all the time,” Potard said. “It bored me stiff because I preferred to play with my electric trains. But the way he did it was so exciting that it became amusing and interesting for me,” he said. Gaultier said his decision to stop ready-to-wear had been taken after an “in-depth assessment” of the future of his eponymous fashion house, in which the Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig has a majority stake. “For some time, I have found true fulfilment in working on the haute couture, and it allows me to express my creativity and my taste for research and experimentation,” he was quoted as saying. “Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic pace of collections, don’t leave any freedom, nor the necessary time to find fresh ideas and to innovate,” he said. “I will be able again to express my creativity without constraints,” he added.

“Jean Paul was always an innovator... He was designing all the time.” In the mood of Jean Paul Gaultier: the latest collection for ‘all women, regardless of their age’The couturier offered insights into the inspirations behind his latest designs. What’s the key piece in this collection and why? There’s the bustier, the corset dress, the tuxedo, the striped sailor top. There are Swarovski bandanas that are really quite elaborate. But there isn’t really a key piece. Which female icon could be the face of this collection? All women, regardless of their age or their style. Of course I put six of them front and centre, Suzy, Grace, Franca, Babeth, Carine and Emmanuelle, but it’s not exclusive. What was the initial spark or starting point for this season? I saw the film 'On My Way' with Catherine Deneuve in the role of Miss Brittany, and this inspired the beauty pageant theme. Grace Jones, the Spice Girls, Jane Birkin... How did you pick the soundtrack for the collection? It had to be both beauty pageant music and party music at the same time. Can you sum up the collection in one word? Miss Jean Paul Gaultier. Q&A courtesy of AFP Relax News


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Guests arrive at the Royal Palace chapel for Princess Madeleine of Sweden and Christopher O’Neill ‘s wedding ceremony at the Royal castle in Stockholm, June 8, 2013. AFP PHOTO / JONATHAN NACKSTRAND


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JEWEL IN

THE CROWN BY DIANA FARID

WITH THE RISE OF SOCIAL MEDIA, THERE HAS BEEN A BIGGER INTEREST THAN EVER IN THE LIVES OF ROYAL FAMILY MEMBERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. WITH INFLUENCE AND PEDIGREE, SOME OF THE ROYALS HAVE COME INTO THE SPOTLIGHT FOR THEIR DRESS SENSE AND LOVE OF FASHION. IN OUR SPECIAL ROYAL FEATURE THIS MONTH, GLAM TAKES A LOOK AT A FEW POWERHOUSES THAT HAVE BECOME STYLE FAVOURITES IN THE PUBLIC EYE.


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Attending an evening reception to celebrate the work of The Art Room charity at The National Portrait Gallery in London. AFP PHOTO / POOL / TOBY MELVILLE At a garden party at Buckingham Palace. AFP PHOTO/ POOL/JOHN STILLWELL

1. Meeting guests at a garden party held at Buckingham Palace. AFP PHOTO / POOL / JOHN STILLWELL

Kate Middleton

The Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, has risen to the occasion in her new royal role, starting with her unforgettable wedding dress – which was an icon itself. She leads an elegant chic lifestyle and often drives women all around the world to a rush and copy her style. Pieces that she has worn often sell-out immediately, like the now legendary nude L.K. Bennett pumps and Issa wrap dress. She is a fan of Alexander McQueen, and was spotted in many of his designs over recent months. She also favours Roland Mouret, Orla Kiely, Hobbs, Mulberry, Ralph Lauren and Alice Temperley. Despite marrying into the royal family, she has stayed humble and thrifty. The style icon has become known for recycling outfits on numerous occasions, one of which was the Orla Kiely printed dress, one of her favourites.

Catherine takes part in a tour of a skate park of Elizabeth, a suburb of Adelaide, during a three-week tour of New Zealand and Australia. AFP PHOTO/POOL / Morne de Klerk


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The Father Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al Thani and Sheikha Mozah arrive for a private tour of Westminster Abbey in London. AFP PHOTO / BEN STANSALL

Sheikh Hamad and Sheikha Mozah arrive at Windsor Castle for a Jubilee Lunch hosted by Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II. AFP PHOTO / Kirsty Wigglesworth /POOL

Queen Elizabeth poses with Sheikha Mozah before a banquet held during their state visit at Windsor Castle near London. AFP PHOTO /POOL/Kieran Doherty

2.

Sheikah Mozah

At the FIFA headquarters December 1, 2010 in Zurich, to attend the Qatar’s 2022 World Cup bid final presentation. AFP PHOTO / PHILIPPE DESMAZES

Sheikha Mozah on a visit to the Atfaluna Society for Deaf Children in the Gaza Strip. AFP PHOTO/MOHAMMED ABED

Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Al Missned has mesmerised the world with her magnificent, impeccable and modest sense of style. She is now widely regarded as one of the most elegant, chic, glamorous and stylish women in the world. A mother of seven, she possesses a flawless figure and a highly relevant fashion sense that moulds to different occasions to represent the prestige of her nation. Sheikha Mozah is dressed by major couture houses with special focus on pieces that are modest and suitable to her public profile; a look that is always complemented by her signature turban. Some of her favourites include Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Ralph and Russo and Stephane Rolland.


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Queen Rania arrives at the opening of the first session of the new parliament in Amman in 2010. AFP PHOTO/KHALIL MAZRAAWI

At Windsor Castle for Queen Elizabeth's Diamond Jubilee Lunch. AFP PHOTO / POOL / Dominic Lipinski

3. Queen Rania

Queen Rania attends at Independence Day celebrations in Jordan. AFP PHOTO/KHALIL MAZRAAWI

Blessed with beautiful looks, she also exudes an effortlessly chic style. Often seen in rich saturated colours and floral prints, the elegant Queen has been at the forefront of stylish royal icons. Her wardrobe starts with the basics of luxurious fabrics with excellent cuts – an important way to exert her diplomatic role – and once in a while, she throws in dashes of sequins for refined glamour. Some of her favourite brands include Dolce & Gabanna, Oscar De la Renta, Gucci, Phillip Lim and Antonio Berardi.


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Princess Ameera and her husband Prince Al Waleed arrive at the Presidential palace in Kabul, Afghanistan. AFP PHOTO/SHAH Marai

4. Princess Ameera attends the Chanel 2015 Cruise runway collection at ‘The Island’ in Dubai. AFP PHOTO /MARWAN NAAMANI

5. Charlotte

Princess Ameera

Princess Ameera Al-Taweel, the wife of HH Prince Walid Bin Talal of Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, is a true Arabian beauty that is considered one of modern-day fashion icons. Despite being restrained by cultural requirements, her choice of coloured Abayas and incomparable couture is all a reflection of true Arabian modest beauty. Her signature pieces include feminine skirt suits and dresses, and she is never flashy or over-the-top.

Casiraghi

28-year-old Charlotte Casiraghi, daughter of Caroline Princess of Hanover and fifth in line to the throne of Monaco, is no stranger to the world of fashion, having often graced covers of magazines. Her radiant skin and flawless physique make her a perfect choice as the cover girl for magazines including French Vogue and Elle. Her 24-page photo shoot with French Vogue back in 2011 was a testament to her sophisticated style; she was photographed wearing Cartier, Christian Louboutin, Dior, Céline and Chanel. Charlotte has been taking the fashion world by storm with all great choices of outfits and has added another modelling gig to her fashion record, having starred in the newest Gucci cosmetics film “Stolen moments”.

With a friend on July 9, 2014 at the Vogue Paris Foundation. party in Paris. AFP PHOTO / THOMAS SAMSON

Charlotte attends the “Madagascar 3: Europe’s Most Wanted” premiere during the 65th Annual Cannes Film Festival at Palais des Festivals. VENTURELLI


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Mary visits Soenderbro school in Copenhagen, Denmark on the occasion of national song day and the 200th anniversary of the Danish public school. AFP PHOTO / SCANPIX DENMARK / KELD NAVNTOFT

Denmark’s Crown Prince Frederik and Mary pose for photos at the Sydney Opera House as they arrive to attend the Couple's Awards 2013, in Sydney. AFP PHOTO/William WEST

6.

Princess Mary of Denmark At the Eurovision Song Contest 2014 Grand Final in Copenhagen, Denmark. AFP PHOTO / SCANPIX DENMARK/ BETINA

A darling of the public eye who is enjoying a rising amount of publicity is Denmark’s Crown Princess Mary. The Australianborn style icon married Crown Prince Frederik of Denmark in 2003 and along with the Duchess of Cambridge, is often portrayed as a real-life fairy tale princess. Princess Mary’s style reflects a genuine and passionate interest in the international fashion scene, yet she is keen on supporting local Danish designers.


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At the 2012 Swedish-American Chamber of Commerce from Farm to Fork Royal Gala awards dinner in New York City. Vanessa Marisak/Getty Images/AFP

Madeleine attends the Stockholm Concert Hall Foundation Presents: The Royal Stockholm Philharmonic Orchestra at Carnegie Hall in New York City. Dave Kotinsky/Getty Images/AFP

7. Madeleine attends festivities honouring Queen Silvia of Sweden on her 70th birthday at the Oscar Theatre in central Stockholm. AFP PHOTO / TT NEWS AGENCY / JONAS EKSTROMER

Princess Madeleine of Sweden

Princess Madeleine has had a lot of great fashion moments captured by the media and she really knows how to spice up her wardrobe through impeccable ensembles and glamourous accessories. She counts Valentino as a good friend, and she wore one of his designs down the aisle at her royal wedding in early June last year. The princess is also a big fan of Victoria Beckham, and has been spotted many times in the designer’s ensembles.


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GOOD SPORT BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

THE COLLABORATION OF THE YEAR BETWEEN ALEXANDER WANG AND H&M HAS ALL THE ELEMENTS THAT DEFINE FASHION AT THIS MOMENT IN TIME.



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here’s a new ease to fashion in its current obsession with all things urban, all things comfortable to run about in, all things sleek and playful, all things that just sound so Alexander Wang. There is little need to rattle off the curriculum vitae of this young star who has taken centre stage in the past couple of seasons, except to note that there is just something uncanny about Wang’s ability to consistently stay on the urban perspective of womenswear, without ever alienating the feminine element. The appeal of that tough, yet chic city girl on-the-go who is resoundingly New Yorker, has now gone global, and when Wang’s collaboration with H&M drops in stores on 6 November, we will no longer worry about having to change when we step out of the gym. Before readily joining the queue on the launch day, the designer gives us an exclusive preview of the collaboration and his views on the rise of active wear. The rise of active wear in fashion truly plays to your strength and

"I’VE ALWAYS BEEN INSPIRED AND INTRIGUED BY THE MAKE AND TECHNOLOGY OF SPORTSWEAR, AND THE ADVANCEMENTS IN HOW PERFORMANCE CLOTHING IS CONSTRUCTED.” aesthetics. Did you ever think that sportswear would have become so celebrated now? Alexander Wang X H&M is a collection based on performance and sportswear. I’ve always been inspired and intrigued by the make and technology of sportswear, and the advancements in how performance clothing is constructed. The pieces really have to outlast and outperform, because they’re catering to the body in its most active state. I live in gym clothes, so it’s a natural part of my thinking when it comes to design. I’ve always wanted to design a collection of performance and sportswear pieces, and this collaboration with H&M is the perfect opportunity. This shift, along with minimalism, has really changed the perception of 'dressing up' for women, how do you think this will reflect the fashion landscape in the coming seasons? The H&M collection is inspired by performance wear and sportswear, which are categories with an enormous reach. It’s what people wear at all times of the day, every day. Whether you’re athletic or not, as long as you live an active lifestyle, there are pieces that cater to one’s needs. I didn’t want to target a


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"WE UTILISED TECHNIQUES SUCH AS BONDING, WELDING AND FOAM INJECTION TREATMENTS IN SELECT PIECES THAT FEEL INNOVATIVE AND MODERN." specific customer with this collaboration. Presently, it’s normal to buy a piece of performance clothing that is not only to be worn for working out, but it becomes part of your everyday wardrobe. What were some exciting materials and concepts that inspired you in this collection with H&M? Functionality is important, especially in this collection. We utilised techniques such as bonding, welding and foam injection treatments in select pieces, that feel innovative and modern. I love how its functional details both keep the body warm while also having an elevated aesthetic and quality, like the windproof and water-resistant seamless welded parka. The H&M collection also extends to Objects - something that is part of your brand. How do you curate these objects to best represent Alexander Wang? I launched an Alexander Wang Objects collection a couple of years ago. It is a curated edition of everyday items representing the scale of the Alexander Wang lifestyle. I like looking at everyday items and giving it a different context or treatment to

add a different point of view. For the Alexander Wang X H&M collection, the objects complete the collection, as well as adding a new element to the H&M designer collaborations. There are pieces that are both practical and playful, like the yoga mat or the boxing glove key rings. From your own label, to Balenciaga and of course collaborative projects like this with H&M, how do you strike the balance of creating a clear creative vision for each woman you design for? It is a clear distinction; Alexander Wang is personal, a brand that I founded, and it’s up to me to set my own codes and vocabulary; we are based in New York. Balenciaga is one of the most renowned Parisian fashion houses, with a long heritage and a well-established DNA. It’s my role to continue keeping the codes relevant, while evolving them and moving the brand forward. The Alexander Wang X H&M collection, as a one-off collaboration, is its own thing entirely. I have had some elements from athletic wear in previous collections, this is the first full capsule collection rooted in performance wear.


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SPORTS, PERFORMANCE AND STYLE Technical details and fabrics are used for both function and fashion with the women’s collection of thirty-eight exclusively designed garments, as well as accessories and a playful take on everyday objects. The result is a collection to be worn on the street, in the gym, at the club – the way women live their lives today. Quick-dry black running tops and perforated laser-cut shorts, seamless performance T-shirts, tank tops and crop tops are knitted in a pointelle pattern with a hidden tongue-in-cheek message that becomes visible when worn as well as sports bras, compression crop tops, tights, and dresses form the apparel section. Winter essentials including sweatshirts, leggings and outerwear, are complemented with fun accessories with a definitive sports theme.


BEHIND THE SCENES

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H&M’S CREATIVE ADVISOR MARGARETA VAN DEN BOSCH TAKES US BEHIND THE SCENES TO THE MAKING OF THE COLLABORATION.

“Wang’s aesthetics are urban look, which translates to the streets of cities all around the world. This is a very exciting collaboration, because Alexander wanted to create new pieces rather than look back to his archive. It means that H&M customers around the world will have the chance to buy these exclusive pieces, which will only be available in this one-off collaboration.”

“Sportswear is a global trend. All around the world, people are living a healthier lifestyle, making fitness a regular part of their day. Earlier this year we launched our expanded H&M Sport concept, with pieces specially designed for more activities than ever. We also provided outfits for the Swedish Olympic and Paralympic teams at Sochi, and have a long-term partnership with tennis player Tomas Berdych. Active wear will only become even more important, so it’s perfect time to have this performance and sportswear designer collaboration with Alexander Wang.”

“Once we’ve agreed on the idea, we then give the collaborating designers as much creative freedom as possible, so that we get the true essence of the brand. We then talk about fabrics and how to produce the pieces, creating the first samples and going through a series of fittings with the designer until everyone is happy with the finished product. It is hard work, but it’s also such an enjoyable process, because we get to see the workings of some of the world’s greatest designers at first hand.”


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ALICE + OLIVIA

STACEY

WEARS THE PANTS BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

ONCE IN A WHILE, COMES ALONG A FASHION LABEL FOUNDED BY WOMEN WHO SEEKS DAY-TO-DAY WARDROBE SOLUTIONS, RATHER THAN BEING A FANCY DESIGNER WANTING TO MAKE AN AESTHETIC STATEMENT. AND IF PRECEDENCE DICTATES, THESE LABELS MUST BE ON THE RIGHT TRACK OF WHAT REAL WOMEN WANT JUDGING BY THE PHENOMENAL SUCCESS, AS IN THE CASE OF STACEY BENDET.

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n a quest to find the perfect pair of pants that flatters the curves, is the right length, and can be worn with killer stilettos, the brand Alice + Olivia was born along with the now legendary pair of ‘Stacey Pants’. The success turned Alice + Olivia into a full-fledged fashion and lifestyle label, but it is Stacey Benedet’s quirky and curious passion for life that injects the whimsical factor into the brand’s offerings. A devoted Ashtanga yogi who practices daily, the designer is also a steadfast supporter of charity endeavors including Baby Buggy and Ronald

Mcdonald House. There’s a sense of playfulness and fantasy in her own dressing style, something that has become a trademark for the designer. “I like to tell every woman to be themselves! You have to think about what your personal look is – and go with that. Mine changes every day, but I think it’s about understanding your colour palette and your body and not trying to be something you’re not!” she says. With Alice + Olivia opening its standalone boutique in Qatar this year, Stacey dishes out some golden styling tips to fit all styles and shapes, using key pieces from the collection.


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GLAM: HOW WOULD YOU STYLE THE ALICE & OLIVIA AW2014 COLLECTION WITH THE BASIC BLACK ABAYA? Stacey: For daytime, wear a Victoriana handkerchief hem dress under the abaya; for nighttime, the Amabel box pleat skirt dress and for travel, the Rodes boxy crew rib sweater and the high waist Kate front pleat trouser.

Wide waistband low rise trouser

Maxi skirt with slit

Corwin leather dress

Victoriana handkerchief hem dress

Clee crossbody bag

High waist Kate front pleat trouser

Stacey wink glitter heel

GLAM: WHAT ARE THE 5 KEY THINGS THAT EVERY WOMAN NEEDS IN HER WARDROBE, REGARDLESS OF HER STYLE OR SHAPE? Stacey: A flattering pair of pants, heels, long skirt, versatile dress and an Olivia bag!

Rodes boxy crew rib sweater

Amabel box pleat skirt dress



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WHEN LESS IS MORE BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS

DANIELA KARNUTS COULD BE MISTAKEN FOR ONE OF THE TALL MODELS WHO SHOWCASE HER LABEL ON THE RUNWAY. THE SOFT-SPOKEN DESIGNER OF SAFIYAA RECENTLY VISITED DOHA TO LAUNCH HER LATEST COLLECTION, AT FIFTY ONE EAST IN LAGOONA MALL.


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Though it is the first showing of designs in Qatar, the brand Safiyaa has already made its mark regionally. Many clients from Qatar have purchased pieces in London and are faithful followers of the label. Named after the designer’s daughter, Safiyaa is available across the Middle East in Lebanon, the UAE, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Turkey. Though relatively new, the brand has already caught the attention of the fashion industry and in a short time has built an impressive distribution network that includes retailers such as Barneys New York, Harvey Nichols Riyadh and Saks Bahrain. Further support came this spring, when Jennifer Lopez wore a cap-sleeved Safiyaa dress with gazaar inserts onstage on American Idol. Soon Jessica Alba, Kate Winslet, Padma Lakshmi and others made the well-dressed list by wearing the label. The German designer however, dived in to design by a twist of fate. As a former commercial director of ‘Fashion Rocks,’ working closely with Fashion TV, Daniela is well versed with the industry. During a trip to India in 2010, she found herself stranded during a storm and had a local tailor run up a few dresses to tide her over. Upon her return home to London, she fielded so many enquiries about the designs that she decided to create a collection. Despite her lack of formal training, Daniela was inspired by her mother and grandmother’s innate sense of style. “They taught me that fashion is just as much about how you carry yourself, as what you’re actually wearing,” she explains. The hallmark of all her designs is longevity. “All the pieces are made in our own atelier where everything is tailored to perfection,” she says. With London as its base, which houses its design atelier, the manufacturing aspect is done in Istanbul. Here pieces are hand-sewn by traditionally trained tailors who ensure that each garment is as beautifully finished on the inside as well as the outside. Turkey has always been viewed as a creative hub and the designer endorses this view. “Istanbul is becoming more relevant than Italy in terms of the timelines and in terms of the labour. We have fantastic couture tailors there. There’s a real understanding of the craft. You also have the mass manufacturers who create designs on a large scale. It’s a fantastic place to work.” Daniela pulls out a full-length ivory gown to showcase its finer

1 ●

2 ●

3 ●

4 ● 1 Jessica Alba strikes a pose in ●

Safiyaa.

2 Kate Winslet at the premiere of ●

the film Divergent, March 2014

3 Jennifer Lopez on the American ●

Idol stage.

4 Padma Lakshmi in a Safiyaa ●

dress.

5 Angie Harmon at HBO's 2014 ●

Emmy after-party in L.A.

5 ●


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details. It has 45 pieces of fabric hand stitched together. “It takes the tailor 16 hours to create, and the final product is so clean and flowing.” There are backless designs and a few with lace. “People often like to show off their jewellery so its nice to have a beautiful colour, well-fitted dress, which you can accessorise,” she says. Of course these exquisite pieces claim their price. “Being a luxury brand, our prices start at £300 (QR 1,751) and go up to £3,000 (QR 17,500), so our pricing is competitive,” admits the designer. Having an in-house team allows the brand to control the quality and management of bespoke requests. Often times they can churn out pieces within a week. Her own fashion favourites include the 1940’s Givenchy and Balenciaga designs, as well as Charles James, “styles of timeless elegance.” For her own brand, she decided to focus on couture fabrics, season-less styles and timeless silhouettes. As she puts it, “These dresses can be used on a number of occasions. It is, I hope, a product of longevity.” Safiyaa’s latest collection for SS15 has been “influenced by Ottoman tiles and marbles. This fluidity was juxtaposed by very straight seams and angular cuts to create a new interpretation and use textures and lace to enrich the collection,” she says. The label also created a number of bespoke wedding dresses for clients in Saudi Arabia. “We did everything from the bridesmaids’ pieces to the children’s attire. Of course the wedding dress needs to stand out, so that takes precedence. We do the fittings and

“People often like to show off their jewellery so its nice to have a beautiful colour and well-fitted dress, which you can accessorise,” make the suggestions within the Saafiya aesthetics,” explains Daniela. In addition to red carpet-worthy styles and cocktail attire, Safiyaa also offers elevated daywear. These classic yet versatile staples, in stretch silk and viscose, are available in the wide variety of colours that the Safiyaa atelier offers, with the luxurious addition of leather and fine cashmere. “When a cashmere sweater is perfect, you return to the brand again and again. That is how our clients feel about our pieces.”


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“THIS MUCH I KNOW” BY MEGAN CONNER/THE OBSERVER/THE INTERVIEW PEOPLE

THE GORGEOUS 36-YEAR-OLD SINGER NICOLE SCHERZINGER, WHO HAS LAUNCHED INTO A SUCCESSFUL SOLO SINGING CAREER, GIVES US A CANDID SNAPSHOT OF HER INSATIABLE TWENTIES, HER 'CRYBABY' NICKNAME AND LONDON BEING HER SECOND HOME. “I’M RECKLESSLY AMBITIOUS. IN AMERICA, AMBITION IS A GOOD THING – IT’S HUNGER, IT’S DRIVE.”

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feel like I was born into this world knowing Whitney Houston. One of my earliest memories is getting her album for Christmas when I was six and singing “The Greatest Love of All”. The moment I connected with her voice, I knew what I was going to do in life.

My vision and ambition were always bigger than me. When I was younger, my voice was very small, kind of like a mouse. I was very shy. It’s a crazy name, Scherzinger. It comes from my adoptive father and the Austrian translation is 'jokester,' which explains Schamazeballs [her phrase coined on the X Factor]. My 20's were fruitful but not enjoyable. Being in the Pussycat Dolls was probably my loneliest time because I was quite insatiable. Nothing was ever good enough and I didn’t know how to take a break. My 30's have definitely been more chillaxed. I keep my love life separate – and private. [Scherzinger has been dating F1 driver Lewis Hamilton on and off for six years.] My music is the only place I’m open about it. I live by the “Aloha spirit”. My soul is in Hawaii, where I was born. It’s basically having heart and compassion for others. I can imagine retiring there, wearing a muumuu [a loose Hawaiian dress] and spending my days on a paddle board.

I’m glad I did the X Factor – I think I got to show my personality – but it feels right that I won’t be on the show this year. My nickname at school was 'Crybaby.' Sometimes I can cry just talking because something means so much. And when I’m really hurting I just sob – a bit like someone is dying. I’m emotionally intense. Spirituality has always been a part of me. I come from a very strong Catholic upbringing – my grandfather is a priest, so we went to church twice a week in Louisville, Kentucky, where I grew up. I chose not to victimise myself as a kid. I didn’t get to know my biological father until later on in life, but now I have a wonderful relationship with him and my stepdad, so I count myself lucky. Eating well and working out is painstaking. It’s as simple as that. When I really want to motivate myself I’ll watch music videos. I saw J-Lo’s latest video recently and was like: “Yep! Get in the gym”. It was the same when I saw Beyoncé perform “Drunk in Love”. I’m recklessly ambitious. In America, ambition is a good thing – it’s hunger, it’s drive. I hate it when people use the word negatively. The UK welcomed me with open arms, and London will always be my second home. If I’m away too long I start pining: black cabs, Percy Pigs. I love fish and chips.


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WORK OF ART BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

IN RECENT YEARS, THERE HAS BEEN A SURGE OF DEMICOUTURE LABELS EMERGING FROM THE REGION – A FINE TESTIMONY TO AN AGE-OLD PREFERENCE FOR PERSONALISATION AND DETAILING OF BOTH THE ABAYA AND THE JALABIYA. INTERPRETED ON THE CONTEMPORARY SILHOUETTE, PAINSTAKINGLY MINUTE EMBELLISHMENTS AND INTRICATE EMBROIDERY HAS BECOME A MAIN FEATURE FOR MANY DESIGNERS, AND NOW DEBUT LABEL ROCAILLE IS CHARTING A NEW TERRITORY WITH HAND-PAINTED ART ON THEIR PIECES.

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pearheaded by two Emirati sisters, Shamma and Hessa Al-Hameli, Rocaille brings their launch collection to life this Autumn; an ethereal and light vision of easy-to-wear dresses and separates with delicate details of hand-painted art as its highlight. Using back-to-basics silhouettes, the label focuses entirely on quality, finishing and detailing as its signature. “We are about timelessness and attention to detail,” the sisters say, “and a merging of our vision of artistic contemporary fashion with real life.” Working from their studio, based in Abu Dhabi, the sisters are keen to develop Rocaille into a new coveted luxury Emirati prêt-a-porter label. Combining minimalist aesthetics with their

own brand of fabrics, each collection will feature pieces for both day and night. There’s much to be excited about in the new label, including its elegantly simple yet beautiful interpretations amid the rush of over-the-top fashion that has been taking over international runways recently. Shamma and Hessa talk to us about the construction of the new collection. What is the inspiration and story behind the debut collection? For the first time, Rocaille introduces a capsule collection with exclusive garments designed with a unique woman in mind. Camellias and hydrangeas blossom in our capsule collection bringing you an urban chic vibe thats meets classic and feminine


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silhouettes. With distinct looks perfect for day and night, our garments fabrics range from soft chiffon, to silk, and crepe georgette, detailed with exquisite handwork and our signature hand-painted designs. Why camellia and hydrangea blossoms in particular? In each collection, an inspiration from nature and from our surroundings affects how the collection will cultivate. As a story, the inspiration is the thread that brings the collection together in a harmonious way. With our first capsule collection, we were inspired with the details and depth of the hydrangeas and camellias that have multiple shades of colours in each petal. This

depth inspired us to incorporate intricate hand-embroidery detail into our garments. How did you two come together to collaborate in fashion? We both are passionate about fashion, art and textile since we were young girls and share very similar styles. With our passion, we decided to learn more about this field by taking courses in fashion design and illustrations, and also learning more about textiles and productions. It is a very beautiful collaboration between us as we can easily share our thoughts and come together to produce one solid collection. Each season will be an interesting ride and a learning


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“As our fashion line brings a unique concept with the signature hand-painted garments, we aim to contribute to the success and the rise of the fashion scene in the UAE.” experience for us, as we move from creations to creations. Can you share the story behind the conception of the label, Rocaille? We appreciate art and the name 'Rocaille' is derived from a French décor term that focuses on patterns on walls from the 1800s. It reflects intricate designs and great attention to detail. As we all know, French décor is timeless and influential even till this day. We believe that our label, Rocaille, cultivates these values and brings it to life in the designs. For the love of art, we wanted to bring art to clothing and add another layer of beauty and grace through the process of hand painting. Our signature hand-painted clothes will be a great addition to the women who appreciate and admire fashion and great craftsmanship. How will Rocaille complement the rising fashion scene of the UAE? As our fashion line brings a unique concept with the signature hand-painted garments, we aim to contribute to the success and the rise of the fashion scene in the UAE. Who is the woman that you are designing for? We design each piece in the Rocaille collection for individual, confident, feminine clientele. Rocaille is made for a woman to feel effortlessly sophisticated and fashionable in evening wear and day-to-day fashion. Our designs are inspired with modern women in mind, who want to stand out with an original style of fashion. What is the design process behind Rocaille, do you develop or source your textiles? In terms of textile, Rocaille produces custom-designed fabrics, as all the patterns and designs are made locally at our Abu Dhabi studio. With our signature hand-painted designs, our clients will always have unique garments that are singularly unique. What do you think are elements of the Middle Eastern woman that excite you? As Middle Easterners and Emiratis, we are always amazed by our beautiful culture and amazing handicraft that have been a treasure to the Emirates. It also serves as an important inspiration for emerging designers to aspire to design garments with passion and attention to detail.


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Michael Cinco Spring Summer 2015


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FASHION FORWARD S E A S O N

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THE MIDDLE EAST’S DEFINITIVE FASHION PLATFORM HAS GONE FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH INTO ITS FOURTH EDITION THIS SEASON – WITH REGIONAL DESIGNERS PRESENTING THEIR SPRING SUMMER 2015 COLLECTIONS. WITH A MIX OF ESTABLISHED NAMES AMATO AND MICHAEL CINCO, AND NEW DESIGNERS REPRESENTED BY STARCH FOUNDATION, THE SHOWS WERE A VISUAL KALEIDOSCOPE FROM FANTASY CREATIONS TO CONTEMPORARY SLEEK SILHOUETTES.


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HÂSHÉ Designed by Ava Hashemi, the label Hâshé began as a custommade clutches concept, which expanded into womenswear and hats. The designer got her leap in 2012 when she first showcased her clothing collection in a show sponsored by MÖet & Chandon and in the same year, was awarded The Best Upcoming Fashion Designer in New England. Ava’s prêt-aporter line is a modern spin on old-world elegance. Hashe’s hand-made clutches feature signature geometric shapes and designs with stones, studs, and vintage brooches.


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THE EMPEROR 1688 This contemporary specialises in tailored silhouettes for both women and men and its collection is divided by shades of blues and browns for SS15. The trio behind the creative process, brothers Babak, Haman and Farhan Golkar, looked to Morocco as inspiration for the colours – a combination of organic shades.


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AMATO Middle East’s King of Fashion Fantasy comes to the fore this season with all the key ingredients of his wonderfully appointed atelier; tulle origami, chiffon overlays, beaded dresses, capes, hats, masks, cage-bags, and feathers. The entire collection was presented in different variants of the colour white, a narrative of a woman being abducted by aliens, as presented in the show’s introductory video.


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JEAN LOUIS SABAJI Models sporting elongated eyeliner to replicate a bird’s eye was the first giveaway of Jean Louis Sabaji’s inspiration for this season – birds. Signature beaded silk and theatrical gowns with silicon embellishments brought a series of conceptual, yet nearly-wearable gowns and skirts to life. A pale beige number with cascading skyblue beading stole our hearts as a red-carpet stunner.


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MICHAEL CINCO This was a collection of many facets, starting with white lace dresses, then followed by romantic pastel gowns, and then the finale of huge Victorian ball gowns with pops of neon colours over tulle. It was undoubtedly a huge showing, but it was the designer’s signature lace work on various short dresses, that really brought a breath of fresh air.


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DANY TABET A royally appointed collection, first in its choice of colour – black and gold, and second, in its silhouettes that hugged at all the right curves. Cheekily placed embroidery and motifs covered only the necessary; the pieces are a walk on the wild side, though we predict that it will be a hit in this region for 'ladies only' occasions.


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MODEL OF THE MONTH Shot By: Rob Altamirano Makeup and Hair By: Blanca Model from: Trinity Talent Qatar Wardrobe Sponsor: Suite Blanco by Liwa

STACEY JANE PARSONS Welsh native Stacey Jane Parsons moved to Qatar two years ago, after graduating from university in the UK. Since then she has been modelling on a regular basis, as well as acting in various TV Commercials.

YOUNG PERFORMER

Before I started modelling I was acting in various theatre productions in Wales. I have always enjoyed all aspects of performing, starting with dancing and competing in national competitions from the age of 7. I continued this interest into my studies and graduated with a BA Honours degree in Theatre, Drama and Performance Studies. I fell into modelling from a young age and it’s something I really enjoy! I love working on creative shoots with interesting make-up and unique concepts.

PERSONAL STYLE

Classic, clean and feminine. I believe in the motto ‘less is more’, so I prefer simple, clean-cut pieces, teamed with chunky statement jewellery and accessories. I like to be casual and comfortable, with a blazer and a pair of heels handy in case I need to quickly rush to a model casting or dinner. Although I take interest in fashion, I will never wear something I don’t feel comfortable in just based on the fact that it is ‘trendy’.

INSPIRATION

I admire the personal style and work of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. She always looks effortlessly chic, whilst sporting jeans, a loose tee and a pair of boots. Michael Kors is definitely top of my list of designers that I love. Again, it’s the fabulous simplicity of his pieces that just look timeless and classy in a casual way. If I could work for any designer, it would definitely be him.

FOR ASPIRING MODELS

Do not take yourself too seriously. Look after your body in a healthy way, be yourself, and enjoy any experience you get. I do worry about how the media portrays the ‘perfect image’ to young girls, so I would say, if you are yourself and comfortable with who you are and how you look naturally, you are always winning! If you really want something and you try hard enough, you will get it. No one can tell you otherwise. Contact: contact@trinityqatar.com and www.trinitytalentqatar.com

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IWC Schaffhausen recently presented its new Portofino Midsize collection which makes the line especially attractive to watch lovers who prefer a slightly smaller timepiece. Ten different Portofino Midsize Automatic models with 37-millimetre cases are being launched by the brand, available with or without a diamond-set bezel. Three Portofino Automatic versions featuring 40-millimetre cases set with precious stones round off the dazzling display.

WHERE THE BIG BOYS COME OUT TO PLAY

Coach AW2014 Men’s collection displays a number of recognisable classics redefined for today’s modern man. This season sees the continuation of the popular colourblocking story in the form of stripes, mixing contrasting suede and leather and strong colour statements. This bold, yet sophisticated look – resonates from the elevated business collection, from sporty backpacks to stylish portfolios and pouches. A stylish new shoe collection complements the fine outerwear and accessory assortment in the Coach Men’s Collection. It spans a wide array of styles from core classics to edgier, more modern designs (high-top sneakers mixing suede and perforated leather), offering options to suit every man.

Looking nothing like the Dracula-influenced character he plays on the big screen, 35-year-old Luke Evans attends the New York premiere of his film ‘Dracula Untold’ in a crisp brown suit.

The Italian cashmere company, Cruciani clearly wanted its men’s collection to play with colour. Its Autumn/Winter collection palette touches across the entire gamut of greens, such as turquoise and peacock, as well as grey and black. The colours are rendered less uniform by frosting, which gives the garments a more lived-in look.

Since Jimmy Choo launched its first men’s collection in 2011, it has evolved as a diverse and versatile offering of shoes, bags, small leather goods and belts. Expanding the lifestyle offering, the brand unveils its inaugural fragrance, Jimmy Choo Man, capturing the spirit of the JC man in an effervescent fragrance. In a clever move, the brand cast Game of Thrones lead actor, Kit Harington, for its advertising campaign.


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With his edgy looks Antonio Banderas never has to try too hard. His latest fragrance, King of Seduction, is made up of fresh, citric notes of grapefruit and bergamot. The bottom note includes white musk and cedar wood. The perfume is aimed at men who are self assured and confident of themselves.

The world’s best known textile fibre brand – The Woolmark Company – and British designer Paul Smith recently announced a collaboration that will see Australian Merino wool being highlighted across the Paul Smith Men’s London collection AW2014. For his first collection with The Woolmark Company, Paul Smith will focus on the use of Cool Wool. Smith pays tribute to Jim Morrison with his Autumn Winter collection for men. Coats bear musical notes on silhouettes, while loose neck cashmere sweaters, and sheepskin lined hoodies reassert a feeling of ease. The skate-inspired Jim shoe is seen in petrol blue nubuck with a moulded leather and rubber sole offering wearers a chance to ‘break on through to the other side.'

Amongst faceless sculptures, Lanvin men’s Winter 2014 collection paraded the floor of the glass-covered courtyard at the Ećole des Beaux-Arts. Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver designed looks to reflect the personality of each of the models. The final styles have a surrealist feel, presenting elements of the body without identity, as symbols of how personalities are removed. In the form of two-dimensional satin appliqués they are sewn onto a sweatshirt or T-shirt. Reminiscent of Matisse or Picasso, a monochrome hand embraces the waist on a top, moving up towards the zippered shoulder. A face in graphic profile, sculpted from coloured satin, decorates the architecture of a sweatshirt, highlighted at the neck with small lacquered metallic-blue hands.


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NOVEMBER 2014 KEEP YOUR SKIN ENERGISED AND YOUR MAKE-UP ARMOUR AT HAND AS WE MOVE CLOSER AND CLOSER TO A COOLER CLIMATE. THE 8 MINUTE MIRACLE La Mer’s new intensive revitalising mask helps the skin bounce back, restoring its radiance with the vital protection it counts on. The company’s legendary miracle broth, a potent blend of antioxidants and marine actives, work together to help shield against the invisible drivers of premature aging. The best part? It just takes eight minutes for the skin to look healthy and plump. A calming application ritual soothes and uplifts the senses with a blend of grapefruit, mint, Helichrysum and other sensorial ingredients. HERE’S HOW YOU ACHIEVE RESULTS Gently cup hands to face and breathe in a generous amount of this soft, refreshing cream three times. Massage into face with gentle circular motions. Leave for 8 minutes. Use a tissue to wipe away excess or massage into skin and allow the treatment to be fully absorbed. For optimum results, use daily. Available in Qatar for QR 624.

Breast cancer survivor and TV host Robin Roberts attends the 2014 Social Good Summit in September in New York City. Her subtle use of make-up sets is even toned and brings out her smile.


/ 97 MASCARA THAT DEFIES TEARS AND TIME The mascara from Diego Dalla Palma is the first semi-permanent kind, a real lash dye that lasts for days on end and comes off only when you decide. It defines lashes without weighing them down – thanks to its soft and creamy texture, and gives an ultra-comfortable finish. A special full-bodied applicator made of soft fibre, specially developed for this semi permanent texture, allows easy application all over the lashes.

GO FOR MATTE Revamp your look with daring new shades of MAC’s iconic matte lipstick, hitting the market very soon. Vibrant hues like Fuchsia Heroine and Le Vie En Rouge are a bold contrast to the rich burgundy of Fashion Revival and sultry nude of Styled in Sepia. For the ultimate in colour intensity, pro-longwear lip pencils enhance lipstick in super-saturated shades that make for a classic, modern statement. For a polished finish, accent with the soft, pinky hues of the pro long-wear blush - a long-lasting colour that’s purely fabulous.

BRUSH CRUSH

FRAGRANT AND FRESH Escape the everyday along the windswept shore with the new perfume by Jo Malone. Alive with the mineral scent of the rugged cliffs. Mingling with the woody earthiness of sage, the new perfume wood sage and sea salt is spirited. “For me this fragrance is different. The sea air mixes with salty spray and the mineral texture of sand and rock. Like the scent of driftwood, it has a natural and fresh sophistication. A complex combination of wood and the sea is at its core. The feeling is of free-spirited liberty and joy,” says master perfumer, Christine Nagel who is the nose for the new fragrance.

Brushes and primers are the new must-haves for the runway. They prepare the skin, set texture effects and deliver professional-looking make-up. These must-have tools deliver easier, more controlled make-up application while improving its payoff. But even better, they provide more precise pick-up, blend, smudge and blur techniques. Sephora is launching two brush ranges to meet your every beauty need, ranging from the most natural to the most sophisticated. Its 22 brushes have been given a new look in black, and are used for simple daily make-up application to the complexion, eyes and lips. Pupa’s brush set is equally worthy of mention. A set of brushes for every need is neatly wrapped in a pink pouch that is easy for travel. It is available in two sizes.


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NOVEMBER 2014 SHU UEMURA’S SHUPETTE COLLECTION ON SALE IN NOVEMBER Shu Uemura set the bar high when it announced it would devote its holiday make-up collection to Choupette, the most famous cat in the fashion world. Called Shupette, the much anticipated make-up collection, inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s cat, doesn’t go on sale until November – but is already the talk of the beauty blogosphere. Between the eyeshadow in 'Shupette Blue,' the furry white pouch covering the lip and eye palette, and the tiny paw prints on the eyeliner, every detail of the collection is a tribute to Lagerfeld’s feline friend. In fact, an illustration of Choupette appears on the packaging of every item. The collection also includes a set of dramatic false eyelashes, complete with feathers and crystals, as well as two eyeshadow trios, two blushes, three glitter pots, two nail polishes, a face powder, a primer, an eyelash curler, a set of four brushes and a vanity case. (Courtesy Relax News)

SKIN SAVIOUR A synthesis of science and nature, Bio-Oil is a dry oil that uses a breakthrough ingredient PurCellin Oil– along with natural plant oils of calendula, rosemary, lavender and chamomile. It provides an oil-based product that contains no water and hence the entire product is ‘active’ and is readily absorbed by the skin. The product is a blend of natural oils along with vitamins A and E that offer a myriad of benefits and have been used for centuries to maintain healthy skin. Regarded as the number one selling skin care product in 11 countries, Bio-Oil is a multi-use product that offers solutions to a range of skincare problems and concerns including scars, stretch marks, uneven skin tone, ageing skin and dehydrated skin. Available in 34 countries, Bio-Oil has a successful 25 year track record outselling most skincare ranges and is recommended by doctors in the United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. Bio-Oil is sold across 129 locations in Qatar, including leading pharmacies.


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PORTABLE LUXURY After spellbinding nail colours and eye shades, Marc Jacobs Beauty continues to produce make-up for the woman whose love of efficiency is matched only by her eye for quality. Invest in Marc’s take on portable luxury. With four cleverly designed colour cosmetic products, Marc Jacobs Beauty has re-imagined beauty basics, crafting each with breakthrough technologies and ingredients for unparalleled performance. Chic, chrome packaging and portability is signature to the Autumn collection and Marc’s design. “Beauty is something you’re attracted to. It’s kind of fun and unexpected-I think it’s what surprises you. It’s what’s done with style and confidence and a sense of urgency and youth. I hope we have continued to create a very desirable, modern product that really illustrates how I feel about beauty,” says Marc Jacobs.

REFRESH, HIGHLIGHT AND GLOW Estée Lauder takes the iconic perfecting and long-wear benefits of Double Wear and couples them with new instant radiance and skincare ingredients -- introducing Double Wear All-Day Glow BB Moisture Makeup SPF 30 +++ and new Double Wear Brush-On-Glow BB Highlighter. These two exciting new make-up additions have a nourishing, skin-loving formula and sheer, natural coverage that provide a luminous, fresh-faced look that lasts all day. Whether transitioning between seasons or if a sheer coverage make-up is desired, the Double Wear All-Day Glow BB moisture make-up is the perfect addition to any foundation wardrobe. This exceptional new make-up delivers all the benefits of a BB, but in a moisture-fresh, lightweight texture that instantly brightens and perfects the skin’s natural undertones and colour, while providing immediate and all-day radiance, hydration and comfortable wear. Available in a range of two complexion-enhancing shades to suit every skin tone, this colour-true moisturising makeup is Ophthalmologist- and Dermatologist-tested, fragrance- as well as oil-free and appropriate for all skin types. Brush on glow highlighter In just one stroke, the new Double Wear Brush-On-Glow BB Highlighter delivers both instant and lasting radiance, moisture and wear in a highlighter that brightens and conceals to diffuse light and minimise the look of imperfections all day long. It helps erase the look of fatigue and dark circles as it highlights facial features.


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NUDE LOOK The nude make-up look makes a return with Korean designer J. JS Lee using it to match the minimalism of her tailored pieces, similar to the theme at Christopher Raeburn, where Debbie Finnegan used MAC products to create a natural and fresh look. Make-up artist Lucia Pieroni who was in charge of the Christopher Kane show, and also stuck to the nude theme, filling in brows and adding a light highlight to the cheeks for finish.

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NUDE LIPS Nude lips were all over the runway in Milan, and the Missoni show was no exception. Make-up artist Wayne Goss shares how to pick the right shade for your skin. His first tip is to test out whether you can rock a beige lip by applying foundation on your lips: “If you look amazing, go for it”. Still, according to Wayne “a real nude lip is your own lip colour,” and he suggests picking one shade lighter than your own lip colour for the best effect.

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AUTUMN’S BIG BEAUTY MOMENTS BLUE EYES Blue eyeliner and eye shadow featured at a number of shows, including Temperley London, where ultramarine was paired with a soft peach lip. Giles and Michael van der Ham also worked the trend, adding a little more glitter in the process.

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CORNROW BRAIDS At Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen show, the models wore cornrow hair.

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SIXTIES EYES At Saint Laurent 60's shift dresses were paired with black winged eyeliner and heavy mascara. Start with taupe shadow on the lid, then line the lid with black liquid eyeliner in the desired shape. Finish off the eye with two coats of mascara.


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VICTORY ROLLS Antonio Marras goes for elegant rolls – achieved through blow-dried curled hair that is parted to the side and teased with a comb. QUIRKY MODERNISM The prints in London took on a quirky tone this season with plenty of post-modern mash-ups and strange hand motifs appearing on the runway. At Holly Fulton, makeup artist Andrew Gallimore used metallic eyeliner to create double-take double copper lines on the girls’ eye sockets.

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08 COLORFUL EYES Chanel and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac both went for bright Crayola eyes on the runway. Skip the neon lips for the full runway effect, and go for a nude look as seen at Chanel.

CLUMPY EYELASHES At Prada, beauty legend Pat McGrath wanted the girls to look like they were applying their make-up for the first time, hence the slightly messy red lips and the clumpy mascara.

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CENTER PARTINGS At Preen, hair was parted in the middle and pulled back loosely over the ears, with a few flyaway hairs for effect. Topshop Unique’s ‘naughty schoolgirls’ were given centre-parted straightened hair by stylist Anthony Turner. At John Rocha, hair was held with product in the centre and fell damply to the side.


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FANCY FACIALS BY TAMSIN DUPLESSIS

THERE ARE FEW THINGS AS SATISFYING AS HAVING A GREAT FACIAL, AND TODAY I’LL BE TALKING ABOUT TWO FACIAL TECHNIQUES THAT WILL GIVE YOUR SKIN AMAZING RESULTS, NAMELY FACIAL BRUSHING AND HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENTS .

High frequency treatment helps diminish under eye circles, reduces puffiness and softens fine lines and wrinkles


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FACIAL BRUSHING Facial brushing is not new to the beauty scene; I can remember owning my first Académie manual facial brush back in 2005. This device has gained popularity over the years and has evolved into the electric facial brushes which we now see advertised everywhere. The benefits of facial brushing are exfoliation, increased blood circulation to the skin, stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis. Facial brushing can be used in place of any enzymatic exfoliators and should be used 2 to 3 times a week with your cleanser. Facial brushing is great to use at night especially, as it removes all make-up and dead skin cells, which leaves your skin fresh and clean and able to absorb your night crèmes and serums. Do not be alarmed if you suffer from breakouts in the beginning of your facial brushing routine; this is due to the loosening of the dead skin cells and opening of your pores. Eventually the breakouts stop. Be sure to clean your brush regularly. Make-up stores usually sell a brush cleaner designed to kill all bacteria and keep your facial brush squeaky clean and germ free. Like all good things, this has to be done in moderation. Too much facial brushing can cause sensitivity, irritation and destroy your lipid barrier which is the protective layer on your skin, so balance is the key. Stick to 2 to 3 times a week and you will have glowing skin.

Sephora Duo Face Brush

Clarisonic Facial Brush System

HIGH FREQUENCY High frequency treatment was discovered in the 1800’s by Nikola Tesla, the well-known scientist, as an antibacterial treatment for infection. Decades later it has evolved into the highly effective high frequency device used in spas and salons around the world. High frequency skin care treatment uses a high-frequency current to produce thermal heating and a very high rate of oscillation. The oscillating function of high frequency eliminates acne-causing bacteria, enhances blood circulation and increases collagen and elastin synthesis. The high frequency current is used to treat acne and breakouts, so it’s beneficial to use after a deep cleansing facial with oxygenated crème. High frequency gently cleanses the skin of bacteria and toxins, increasing the skin's absorptive abilities of acne treatment creams and lotions. Other benefits of high frequency treatment are: diminishing under eye circles, a reduction in puffiness and softening of fine lines and wrinkles. Adding one or both of these methods to your facial is essential for great skin. When booking your next facial at Reméde Spa, you will have the option of adding these techniques to your customised facial. You will be amazed at the results. There is no better time to start your journey to great, healthy skin than now.


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TURKISH DELIGHT ICONIC COLLECTION

With new iconic designs, rich materials, shimmering details, lots of blues and multiple functions, BoConcept is ready with their biggest new collection of furniture and accessories for 2015. Under the banner ‘It’s a concept’, the brand celebrates individuality offering multiple options in a completely coordinated collection. So no matter if it is the new blue, shiny metallic colours or the most delicate grey, you can have it your way and be sure that it will match. The collection is spot on trends and some of its highlights are the new Boston and Adelaide chairs including elegant dining tables and wall systems. See the collection in the new catalogue or at boconcept.com.

Doha based young Abaya designer Fatma Ghanem, owner of Fufi-Design recently showcased her latest collection of Abaya Rose Salon with a trunk show. The launch provided attendees with an express vision about her new inspiration of the local heritage in Istanbul. The trunk show, which is in partnership with Doha-based youth empowerment organisation - The Youth Company, is the first of its kind in Doha to bring forward the passion for the latest trends.“The designs are inspired by my latest visit to Istanbul - the city of art and heritage,” says Fatma. “My visit to a local art gallery was the key where I learnt about the Turkish culture and my new designs show the mesmerising sensation of the cultural turban, that the Sultans used to wear in Turkey,” she added. The event had a Turkish theme, and featured Turkish music and performances for the audience. Commenting on supporting the launch of Fatma’s new collection, Mohamed Farid, chairman and founder of The Youth Company said, “The Youth Company has been working together with FUFI Design since January 2013, where we pushed boundaries to organise an Abaya fashion show to raise up to QR 40,000 for cancer in Qatar. We will continue to support such talent to raise a demand of art for young people in the region.”

APPAREL GROUP HOSTS FASHION WEEKEND Apparel Group, the international fashion and retail group launched a ‘Fashion Weekend’ in Ezdan Mall at the end of last month. The initiative brought the group’s brands together in an exclusive fashion show that featured the latest trends from this season’s collection. The show, held at the mall’s atrium, exhibited popular brands such as Aldo, Garage, Aeropostale, New Yorker and Le Château, to name a few. Attendees were given a glimpse at some of the brands’ Fall/ Winter 2014 range via an upbeat, fun and lively fashion show.



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Off The Beat Trunk Show

The designers, from bottom left, Debrina Aliyah, Carla Mallari and Dalia Pineiro with Clara de la Ramos of W Doha and bloggers VaninitaDoha and Sofia Graniello

Guests at the Trunk Show

Trunk Show guests

Handmade jewellery from Dana Jewellery

OFF THE BEAT TRUNK SHOW IN SUPPORT OF THE EMERGING LOCAL FASHION SCENE, W DOHA HOTEL & RESIDENCES CONTINUES ITS EFFORTS TO PROMOTE LOCAL TALENT THROUGH ITS LATEST EVENT, THE OFF THE BEAT TRUNK SHOW. Held at the Living Room of the funky establishment, the trunk show featured a trio of Qatar-based labels that are focused on handmade and niche offerings. Twenty30Forty showed a select edit of its latest capsule dress collection; Cala Mari launched its limited edition cult clutches, and Dana Jewellery presented a dessert-inspired accessories line. The three labels have shown together previously and the designers often work together to present unique ideas that put the fun back into fashion.

Handmade clutches from Cala Mari

Dessert jewellery display from Dana Jewellery

Hybrid Overcoat by Twenty30Forty




SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation


SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation


SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation


SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation


SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation


SHOW STOPPERS Exclusive Sneak Peek Backstage at Delpozo Spring Summer 2015 Presentation




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