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88 Jude Law talks to Sarah Lyall about the business of being an actor. (Fashion credits on Page 95.)

38 REMIX qatar

12 Contributors 13 REMIX

The New York Times Style Magazine LIFESTYLE 2013

Styled to a T with Paul Weller, Fabien Riggall and Oki Sato, uncomplicated watches for simple times, The Selby stops by Vermont, Umit Benan’s favorites in Istanbul, Ulrika Lundgren and Tina Seidenfaden’s chic apartments in Amsterdam and Copenhagen, candy-colored furniture to brighten up any home.

42 Where art meets fashion, Gucci collaborates with Creative Director Frida Giannini and renowned Japanese Manga artist, Hirohiko Araki; 72 The Islamic section of The Louvre; 60 A family steeped in art exhibits at Anima Gallery; 70 Sotheby’s explores art in nature.

64 talk qatar

68 Han-Na Chang, the Music Director at the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra believes in the unifying nature of music; 66 Ramsay-style at the St Regis; 64 Alain Ducasse opens IDAM at the Museum of Islamic Arts.

76 Get

Been to Bloomie’s? Bought out Barneys? When it comes to holiday wish fulfillment, TQ is at your service.

81 BrEAKING THE MOLD Artwork by Fabien Baron

82 A delicate balance

Nicaragua has long been an unplugged paradise, What happens when the jet set arrives? Karlie Kloss tests the waters. By Julia Fesenthal. Photographs by Ryan McGinley. Fashion Editor: Sara Moonves.

88 who are you calling pretty boy?

With a clutch of recent roles that allow him to be villainous, look ordinary and even grow a paunch, Jude Law is letting go of being a heartthrob and getting down to the more interesting business of being an actor. By Sarah Lyall. Photographs by Sam Taylor Johnson. Fashion editor: Bruce Pask.

96 twelve for ’12

For this dream dozen, it was a year to go big. By Jacob Brown. Photographs by Graeme Mitchell. Fashion editors: Ethel Park and Jason Rider.

108 Timely

The rapper Angel Haze. By Jacob Brown.

The New York Times Style Magazine

On the cover Photograph by Sam taylor Johnson. Ami jacket, qr3,995;mrporter.com. Hermès sweater, qr4,850.

contributors

Sam Taylor Johnson The London-born photographer, filmmaker and artist Sam Taylor Johnson snapped the actor Jude Law for ‘‘Who Are You Calling Pretty Boy?’’ (Page 88). ‘‘He’s great to photograph because he’s just so comfortable in front of the camera,’’ she says of Law, who stars in the movie adaptation of ‘‘Anna Karenina’’ with her husband, the actor Aaron Taylor Johnson. (Law is Karenin to Taylor Johnson’s Vronsky.) ‘‘The thing is, when you photograph somebody you know and you know how good they are in front of the camera, it’s a joy to get up in the morning and say: ‘Oh, I’m doing that today.’ ’’

Nicholas Des Jardins The set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, who for ‘‘Window to the Present’’ (Page 76) built imaginary store windows inspired by Fifth Avenue institutions like Tiffany & Company and Bergdorf Goodman, has actually worked on a few real retail displays, for Macy’s and others. But T’s windows, he says, ‘‘have a little more depth of room’’ than the ‘‘tight quarters’’ of actual store windows. Being a set designer for photo shoots, Des Jardins says, is about being a problem solver. ‘‘I’ve had to get elephants, and I’ve had to build sets, and I’ve had to shop the perfect chair.’’ It’s all fun and games until ‘‘you still can’t find the perfect chair, or the elephant gets quarantined and you have to find a last-minute elephant.’’

Sarah Lyall

& editor-in-chief chief executive executive vice president vice president

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Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish Sandeep Sehgal Alpana Roy Ravi Raman

editor Sindhu Nair senior correspo nden ts Rory Coen Ezdihar Ibrahim Ali A b i ga i l M at h ias Correspondent Ol a Diab

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Venkat Reddy Hanan Abu Saiam senior graphic designer Ayush Indrajith graphic designer Maheshwar Reddy photography Rob Altamirano assistant art director

Senior manager – marketing Zulfikar Jiffry Assistant Managers – Marketing Chaturka Karandana Thomas Jose media consultant Hassan Rekkab

‘‘I was very pleasantly surprised to see how smart he was about what he does and the parts he plays,’’ Sarah Lyall says of Jude Law, whom she profiles in this issue (Page 88). The actor, she says, ‘‘is really thoughtful about sitting down and talking candidly.’’ Lyall, an American, has lived for the past 15 years in London, where she works as a correspondent for The New York Times. In her 2008 book, ‘‘The Anglo Files,’’ she chronicled the strange ways of Britons from a foreigner’s perspective. ‘‘It’s nice to be a reporter there,’’ she says of living in England. ‘‘You feel like a real outsider anyway.’’

Fabien Baron For the latest in our series of artist-designed T’s (Page 81), the renowned creative director Fabien Baron — currently the editorial director of Interview magazine and the head of his own agency, Baron & Baron — reimagined the T as a shattered mold lying in rubble. He used a 3-D printer to render the letter in powder and glue, and then took a hammer to his creation. What you see is a black-and-white photograph of the aftermath. ‘‘I saw what everybody was doing and I wanted to do something different,’’ Baron says. ‘‘I wanted to do a picture because I felt like what would be expected of me would be type.‘‘

Jason Rider ‘‘Everything I know about and am interested in was informed by my years of sheer boredom in Oklahoma,’’ says T’s men’s fashion editor, Jason Rider, who lived in Egypt until he was 15, when he moved to the Midwest. In those days, Rider says, he split his time between admiring his high school’s jocks’ style and listening to his town’s one hip-hop station. When he styled the men featured in this year’s ‘‘Twelve for ‘12’’ portfolio (Page 96), Rider was naturally excited to work with the rapper A$ap Rocky and the Olympic fencer Race Imboden. ‘‘They’re from such different worlds but equally fun to dress.’’ julia felsenthal 16

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sr. distribution executive BikramShrestha distributi on suppo rt Arjun Timilsina Bhimal Rai

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remix Styled to a T

The Girl

For Lily McMenamy, 18 and fresh out of high school, destiny comes down to genetics: she is following in the stilettoed footsteps of her mother, the model Kristen McMenamy.

The Season

fashion assistant: francesca stephenson. hair and makeup by celia burton at clm hair & makeup using m.a.c.

Lily was picked by Hedi Slimane for his first Saint Laurent Paris show. Then Karl Lagerfeld asked her to walk in the Chanel show. And a family dynasty was born.

The Trend

Pillar Talk. Bye-bye, establishment. The latest column dresses from Missoni, Valentino and Michael Kors amp up the lean and slinky silhouette with prints, pleats and embellishments. photograph BY tyrone lebon styled by max pearmain gucci dress, QR10,767; gucci.com. sermoneta gloves, about QR1,131; sermonetagloves.com.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

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book forum

In recent years, the literary community has been experimenting more and more with video. Publishers now produce slick YouTube trailers to promote new novels, and scrappy journals have begun innovative video series, like Electric Literature’s wacky animations based on short-story excerpts. Now comes an online venture, Henry (henryreview.org), which films serious writers like Sam Lipsyte, Ben Marcus and Christine Schutt reading three-minute snippets from their work. ‘‘Our aim is to provide access to literary readings for people who don’t live in proximity to KGB Bar or the small places in Brooklyn where readings are usually held,’’ said Katherine Bernard, a writer for Vogue and the Paris Review Daily, who founded the site with her boyfriend, Shayne Barr, a Columbia M.F.A. writing graduate, and Jerone Hsu, the founder of the think tank Prime Produce. Barr and Bernard were inspired to begin Henry after attending an illuminating reading by the short-story writer Gary Lutz. ‘‘His work is emotionally devastating,’’ Barr says. ‘‘We were expecting to be brought to tears by his reading, but when he began to read he was sort of giggling through the lines, and we became aware for the first time of this ripple of humor that’s coursing through the text.’’ stephen heyman On Bernard: Brooks Brothers jacket, QR1,817; brooksbrothers .com. Christopher Kane dress, QR10,037; kirnazabete.com. Falke socks, QR87; Zitomer. Manolo Blahnik shoes, QR2,171; neimanmarcus.com. On Barr: Vince shirt, QR675; Barneys New York. Levi’s pants, QR200; levi.com. Marni shoes, QR2,555; marni .com. Photograph by Backyard Bill. Fashion editor: Rae Boxer.

The French jewelry designer Annelise Michelson graduated from the prestigious fashion academy École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and went on to work for Hermès and Vanessa Bruno. She only discovered bijoux after Carine Roitfeld, the former French Vogue editor-inchief, asked her to design accessories for a shoot. For that Michelson melded odd ingredients — lace, chain and glass — and realized that, when it came to jewelry, ‘‘there was a whole new world of things not yet being done.’’ For her latest collection, she has made gilded bronze cuffs (below, $1,950; annelisemichelson.com) that were inspired by draped silk. ‘‘When the first cuff was done, I realized that it reminds me of one of César Baldaccini’s compression sculptures,’’ she says. CHELSEA ZALOPANY

proenza schouler

chanel

carven

wool lite the resort collections featured twists on the classic tweed suit, with skirts that stop short and blazers and bombers that can go it alone. Proenza Schouler mint/black basket-weave tweed collarless jacket, QR7,847, skirt, QR2,737, and vest, QR1,441. Chanel tweed jacket, price on request, and skirt, QR23,480. Carven jacket, QR2,454, and skirt, QR1,423; grethenhouse.com. Carven shirt, QR1,022; carven.fr.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

Fashion assistant: Carrie Lam. Hair and makeup by Kouta for Chanel Cosmetics at Jed Root Inc.

Cuff Love

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Halo Effect

The London-based architect Asif Khan is interested in the spaces where the natural world and the artificial world intersect. Take ‘‘Harvest,’’ an experimental series of furniture made from resin-infused baby’s breath, for example. He has also designed and produced a canopy made out of clouds. This week, at Design Miami, he will re-create parhelia, stunning visual phenomena (below) that occur in nature under the right combination of airborne ice crystals, sun and serendipity. Khan’s multiple indoor ice halos, conceived for the Swarovski Crystal Palace, will be made using more than 1.3 million Swarovski crystals — though sun and luck will definitely come into play. ‘‘What I’m trying to make happen is a little miracle of the architecture sort using a quality of light borrowed from a distant land to expand people’s world beyond what they can imagine,’’ he said. ‘‘A kind of light tourism, without the subzero temperatures.’’ Alix Browne

sole mates The Dutch shoe designer Louis Leeman first crossed paths with his girlfriend and collaborator, Erica Pelosini, in her home town of Florence, Italy, while he was a student at the Polimoda fashion school. ‘‘We are the complete opposites in so many things,’’ said Pelosini, who got her start as a fashion journalist. ‘‘It can be tricky, but in the end that’s what makes it work.’’ They hatched a plan to make men’s shoes after a day spent looking at Canaletto paintings at the Museo Bellini in Florence. (They’re pictured above in the museum.) In 2010, they moved to Paris and, while Leeman moonlighted for established fashion houses, the pair began making handcrafted kicks that soon ended up on the shelves at Bergdorf Goodman. Leeman said his shoes are targeted at footloose dandies who value old-fashioned construction. His latest collection, he said, channels ‘‘The Sun Also Rises,’’ with matador-inspired slippers (above) and soft suede moccasins. Playing with cultural references is one of Leeman’s favorite parts of fashion. ‘‘There’ll always be some influence from poetry, music, painting or literature,’’ he said. ALEX TUDELA

cartier

Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar, QR139,430; cartier.com. 22

Glashütte original

Senator Perpetual Calendar, QR133,225 tourbillon.com.

IWC

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun, QR 140,890; iwc.com.

P ortrait by danilo scarpati

jaegerlecoultre

Grande Reverso Calendar, QR 43,070 (714) 955-4048.

Girard-Perregaux

1966 Equation of Time and Annual Calendar, QR 119,939

Montblanc

Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Open Hometime, QR 47,450.

Omega

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Annual Calendar, QR 34,675

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

asif khan: jiri zujic; watches: brad bridgers.

Same time next year hours turn into days — so stay up to date with the latest calendar-equipped watches. Bruce Pask

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Styled to a T

The Guy

The actor Stephen Amell has done his time on television — on 20 different series. Now he’s the leading man in the CW’s ‘‘Arrow,’’ about the DC Comics superhero.

The Show

‘‘Arrow’’ mixes origin story with present-day mission. And it has lots of fight scenes, which Amell likes to do without a safety net. ‘‘Wires make me mad,’’ he says.

The Look

Giorgio Armani’s velvet jacket (or a similar version from Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry Prorsum and Hermès) is a casual update on a holiday-party staple.

photograph BY arno frugier Fashion Editor: jason rider

fashion assistant: elena hale. grooming by joanna pensinger.

giorgio armani jacket, QR9,106. hermès shirt, QR2,117; hermes.com. dries van noten pants, QR2,409; driesvannoten.be. dries van noten belt, QR620; barneys. com. etro tie, QR657; etro.com.

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sheer luck

are seethrough clothes ever really wearable? sarah harris finds answers on the spring runways.

W A sheer look from the Givenchy spring 2013 collection. 24

hat can seem daunting about sheer is that, well, it’s sheer. While these peekaboo fabrics look all airy and ethereal parading down a runway on a reed-thin 17-year old-model, knowing how to wear any of them in real life isn’t exactly obvious. Thankfully, this season, designers have hit on ways that a woman can incorporate transparency into her style, and not one of them requires a bee-sting bust or an exhibitionist swagger. But first, before you venture within arm’s reach of sheer fabrics, ensure your nails are buffed and filed; snagging is irreparable. Next, decide how you wish to play it: this should be based on your level of sartorial chutzpah. Beginner: Master the art of veiling, a recurring theme at the resort and spring collections. In a clever game of reveal and conceal, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein layered an all-white

P H O T O G R A P H B Y nacho A legre

midi-skirt and bandeau top under a long-sleeved sheer sheath. At Céline, Phoebe Philo took her signature leg-lengthening trousers and recast them in translucent white silk; she teamed them with matching shells and put them over a scarf-print tank top and Bermuda set, immediately sedating the print into a whisper of muted color. Stella McCartney had the same idea, veiling organza sweatshirts over a color burst of zesty tangerine; her filmy layer was the ideal anesthetizer. ‘‘There are aspects of sheer in just about every spring collection, which reflect a lightening of mood following on from winter’s bold prints and opulent textures,’’ says Holli Rogers, fashion director at Net-a-Porter.com. Designers offered multiple interpretations — organza, chiffon, lattice, perforation. ‘‘It’s all about striking a delicate balance between showing a flash of skin without revealing too much, and combining pretty detailing with interesting techniques.’’ Intermediate: Flash a bra, flash some skin — even an entire leg. But just one. Jonathan Saunders spliced sheer inserts into bias-cut silk dresses to tantalizing effects; with every stride, admirers caught a glimpse — albeit a fleeting one. ‘‘Sheer felt relevant for the feeling of the collection,’’ Saunders told me. ‘‘It was an effective way of making something graphic look sexy,’’ he said, adding, ‘‘but it was important that there was just enough ‘peek’ and not too much ‘boo.’ ’’ Preen and Victoria Beckham both showed sheer tops layered over black or white graphic bandeaus or triangleshaped bras. (Beckham’s were built-in.) If you’re choosing your own bra for this look, it’s important to go with something simple like the Lumière and Paradis d’Enfer collections by Eres, or the Vintage Lace Triangle bra by La Perla. Avoid padded and push-up styles at all costs. Advanced: Experiment. Christopher Kane’s spring/summer 2013 collection read like an ode to sheer. He explored every transparent possibility, from knitted plastics to barely-there silks, from latex crocheting to spongy see-through basketweave suiting. (Even some of his zippers and those quirky nut-and-bolt fastenings were rendered in clear plastic.) ‘‘I always love working with sheer fabrics,’’ Kane told me in his studio in East London. ‘‘We pleated sheer organza, gaffertaped sheer, printed-onto sheer, layered plastic frills and turned jellylike rubber into row upon row of bows.’’ But here’s the kicker: every sheer ensemble was contrasted with a hemline that crept down to the knee or longer, and those sheer blouses maintained models’ modesty via sweeping bows across the bust. Yes, it was see-through — and there was latex! — but it was oddly demure, covered up, with just a hint of suggestion. ‘‘I’m really drawn to the veillike quality of sheer, romantically concealing the body while giving just enough away,’’ Kane added. There’s lightness, yes, that’s easy enough to grasp — and then there’s the heaviness. ‘‘Come again?’’ you ask. Herein lies another trick in making sheer look modern: playing light against heavy; fragile against bold. Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy added weight to his fluttery wisps with gold and silver plates. (At one point, they seemed to be the only thing anchoring those slithers of organza to models’ bodies.) And at Pucci, Peter Dundas tempered his procession of multilayered transparencies with statement accessories; mighty cuffs adorned both wrists, while sturdy sandals — ivory wedges carved into dragons — kept things grounded. Believe it or not, sheer might not be so scary after all. n

jazz hands embellished Emerald rings That echo Art Deco.

photographs by grant cornett fashion editor: edward barsamian Top row (from left): Asprey ring, price on request. Fred Leighton diamond and emerald ring, price on request. Stephen Russell platinum, diamond and cabochon emerald ring, price on request. Middle row: Kwiat vintage ring, QR 42,705; kwiat.com. Van Cleef & Arpels ring with 15-carat carved emerald, circa 1962, price on request; vancleefarpels.com. Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry ring, qr 18,615; ralphlaurenjewelry.com. Bottom row: Graff 22.93-carat emerald cushion cabochon ring, price on request; graffdiamonds.com. Solange Azagury-Partridge ring, QR66,430. 26

prop styling by janine iversen. background: ralph lauren home pearl ray shagreen wallcovering, QR613 per yard; ralphlaurenhome.com.

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secret sharer

from her secluded salon in the beverly hills neiman marcus, catherine bloom helps create fashion’s next big things. By amy ephron

L Catherine Bloom, Beverly Hills Neiman Marcus’s star personal shopper, in her five-room suite.

os Angeles isn’t really a pedestrian sort of town. On Wilshire Boulevard’s department store row, you park you car or hand it off to a valet, then enter through the back door — which gives you an instant air of entitlement and belonging, like a backstage pass to a magical world. At Neiman Marcus, there’s somewhere even more hidden — what I call the secret inside the secret — up the escalator to the second floor, in a five-room suite set behind the Valentino boutique: the workplace of Catherine Bloom, Neiman’s personal shopper extraordinaire. Visiting these rooms is like visiting someone’s home where her closet is on display and up for grabs. A rack, casually set

against the wall in her reception area, holds a classic print blouse from The Row; Neiman’s new thin-neck cotton tee, which comes in any color you want; a beaded Kaufmanfranco evening dress to die for — modern, sexy, fitted, sheer and shimmery; the softest Brunello Cucinelli cashmere cardigan; a Stella McCartney jacket, dual-purpose — rock ’n’ roll with jeans or with silk pants for the opera; a black Rodarte dress that might have caught your eye on the mannequin downstairs and has almost as much attitude on a hanger. There’s a white comfy couch and chairs, soft lights, a glass cooler of fresh lemonade or tea, sparkling water hidden from view and, I imagine, Champagne. And in the middle of what feels like a kind of friendly organized chaos, in black pants, black T-shirt and whatever designer jacket she’s wearing that day (so consistent it’s practically a uniform) sits Bloom. At the moment, she’s all about new fashion. ‘‘Suits are in,’’ she says definitively. ‘‘Skirt suits?’’ ‘‘No,’’ she corrects me. ‘‘Pantsuits. The Row has a great legging. Céline has a beautiful trouser pant. Stella makes a P H O T O G R A P H B Y H olly A ndres

remix really reliable pant that always fits beautifully. Helmut Lang is making fantastic leggings, leather.’’ Shades of the Doors’s ‘‘L.A. Woman’’ run through my head. She goes on to add, ‘‘Givenchy is making a beautifully cut pant.’’ And even though you probably already have three (or more) pairs of black silk pants and leggings, you immediately want more of this year’s version. Short boots are also trending. ‘‘Ankle boots of all different degrees,’’ Bloom says. ‘‘Ankle boots that you can walk in,

“

her judgment is so influential that buyers take her with them to the Paris fashion shows.

”

real job. I’m going to pay you $25 an hour.’’ (That was quite a lot in those days.) She insisted that Catherine keep a record of her hours and send her an invoice. And a star was born. When Bloom was 18, she came to Neiman Marcus — it was the summer before she was to start at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles — and she never left. She was spotted that first summer by the directress of the couture salon, Sally Aminoff, who encouraged Bloom’s taste and skill with clients. She worked at Neiman the whole time she was at F.I.D.M., where she majored in merchandising and retail. She never learned to sew. But she does know what’s wrong with the way something fits and can direct a seamstress to fix it. Bloom is both an oasis of calm and a current of excitement. Part of what grounds her is her 22-year marriage to Michael Frey, an entrepreneur and Las Vegas restaurateur. Frey spends Monday to Friday afternoon in Vegas, while Bloom stays in L. A. in their canyon home decorated with shades of white that could only be picked by someone who spends her life specializing in gradations of color. This includes an amazing antique white frieze on the dining room wall that I couldn’t figure out how she got home from Paris. I’ve always maintained that if I did live alone even part of the time (not that I’m advocating it), I would actually do what Bloom does: get to the gym by 6 a.m. It’s that strict regimen that has helped her maintain her size 4 figure, and it gives her the kind of buoyant, nearly restless energy her job requires. Sure enough, at the end of the few days I spent with Bloom, something new captures her attention: her new thing is lingerie, particularly the gorgeous, sheer, flapperlike collection of Carine Gilson from Brussels. n

Bloom’s grandmother Birdye Wienir, who encouraged her interest in fashion from a young age.

Courtesy of catherine bloom

ankle boots that are really comfortable, flat rubber soled. And then there’s a really high sexy platform. No spiky boots. Even rubber-soled Chanel.’’ You can tell that she’s already figured out which goes with which pants. If you ask Bloom why her clients come to her, she insists, modestly, that it’s about ‘‘time,’’ that most of them, extremely busy professionals, don’t have the time to shop. It’s a diverse group that includes Ann Colgin of Colgin Cellars and the film producer Joel Silver, who says that whether ‘‘it’s a gift or if it’s a coat for me, she gets it. And she’s always on the other end of the phone, she’s always available.’’ Bloom also has the remarkable ability to remember what her clients like individually and in the case of a special event, she will check with other Neiman Marcus stores, and sometimes even the designer houses themselves, to see if anyone has bought the same dress, just to make sure that no one else is wearing your outfit at the party. Bloom is acutely aware of what looks good on a person. (If it doesn’t look good on you, no matter how much it costs, she won’t let you take it out the door.) But that’s only half the story: she also has an uncanny eye for the next big thing in fashion. Her judgment has become so influential that Neiman Marcus buyers regularly take her with them to the Paris fashion shows. As one L.A. insider says, ‘‘If Catherine Bloom likes it, it never makes it to the floor. You can only find it in her suite.’’ She was the first to spot the appeal of Barbara Tfank’s satiny coats. Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy, the designers of Rodarte, credit Bloom for establishing their brand at Neiman Marcus stores and tell me over e-mail that she ‘‘has a way of integrating high-concept runway looks into her clients’ everyday lives. We have learned an enormous amount from her.’’ Bloom began her fashion career in Seattle when she was 10. She would go with her grandmother Birdye Wienir to the extraordinary department store I. Magnin (which sadly no longer exists). She would put together outfits for her grandmother, who was gorgeous and had a bit of a clothes (and shoe) habit herself. When Bloom was 12, her grandmother told her, ‘‘You can do that, but only if it’s a

fashion assistant: shadi beccai. hair by michael long for the wall group. makeup by molly stern for the wall group. Location: the charlie hotel.

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Styled to a T

The Girl

Elisabeth Moss has been acting since she was 6. And now, after five seasons challenging the glass ceiling as Peggy Olson on ‘‘Mad Men,’’ she’s come into her own.

The Projects

Moss has a brief but memorable turn in Walter Salles’s ‘‘On the Road’’ and then takes the lead in ‘‘Top of the Lake,’’a Sundance Channel miniseries directed by Jane Campion.

The Trend

Love Child. Classic bohemian gets a fresh polish — think Marisa Berenson silk chiffon — thanks to flowy, frilly dresses by Salvatore Ferragamo, Tory Burch and Roberto Cavalli. photograph BY todd cole Fashion Editor: rae boxer louis vuitton dress, price on request, and shoes, QR5,292; louisvuitton.com.

remix Left: Carolina Castiglioni shares a house in Milan with her boyfriend, Federico Ferrari, and their son, Filippo. Below: the couple lacquered a table they found at a vintage shop; it serves as a desk and a dining table.

profile in style

carolina cAstiglioni

Above: a custom iron staircase punctuates one of the house’s two living rooms, which is filled with vintage furniture and glass pieces. Right: naturally, Castiglioni wears a lot of Marni — her mother designs the line. Left: she collects birds made from recycled plastic. Far left: the ceramic doll was a gift from her mother. The vessel is vintage Venini.

P H O T O G R A P H s B Y emma hardy

bottom right: Monica vinella.

Style may course through the veins of this Milan-based executive (her mother, Consuelo Castiglioni, is the designer of Marni), but she’s no fussy fashionista. ‘‘I don’t like to follow the runway look,’’ she says. ‘‘I prefer to personalize it and make it my own.’’ Castiglioni, Marni’s director of special projects, applies the same individualistic aesthetic to the airy house she shares with her partner, Federico Ferrari, and their son, Filippo. A former ceramics factory in the Corso Magenta area, the whitewashed space serves as a neutral backdrop for the couple’s collection of midcentury furniture and objects. ‘‘When we renovated, our idea was to create a modern, clean environment for our favorite pieces.’’ And, of course, generous storage space for her extensive wardrobe, which contains mostly Marni (surprise!), with some Comme des Garçons and Vionnet thrown in for good measure. Sandra Ballentine

Right: Castiglioni has a weakness for shoes. Far right: she feeds her son, Filippo, in the stainless steel and stone kitchen she designed with the architects 8&A. Below: the recycled PVC garden chairs were made by ex-convicts in Colombia.

“

‘I love to mix old and new. We found Roman ruins in the basement, and put glass over them.’

shoes and jewelry: monica vinella; all others: emma hardy.

” Above: the master bathroom juxtaposes vintage fixtures and objects with modern amenities like a heated towel rack and an Agape Spoon XL bathtub. Left: a vintage coffee table in the living room holds a collection of toys Castiglioni found at a Beijing antiques market. Above left: these pieces are from her extensive cache of Marni bijoux. 31

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keeping time

traditional swiss watchmaking is alive and well — in the heart of texas. By Andrew Belonsky

S Above, from left: traditional tools used at the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking, in Forth Worth; students in one of the institute’s classrooms. 32

tanley McMahan, a tall, broad and enthusiastic instructor at the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking in Fort Worth, says the same thing a few different ways: ‘‘Watchmaking is very Zen’’; ‘‘There’s a philosophy to watchmaking’’; ‘‘Horology is very Zen.’’ I was on Hour 2 of my three-day tour of the institute, and I was trying to turn a one-inch rod of steel into a perfect cube — by hand, with a file, while standing. If this sounds tedious and frustrating, it is. But it’s also exceptionally meditative. ‘‘Feel the flatness,’’ McMahan hummed. ‘‘Close your eyes. You can hear when you’re not flat.’’ A high-pitch screech echoed across the room, and six first-year students chuckled at my mistake. ‘‘For every one stroke that’s off, you’ll need 30 to fix,’’ he said with firm guidance cultivated after nearly 30 years in the watchmaking business and a decade in front of a class, including five years at Oklahoma State UniversityOkmulgee. ‘‘Remember: It’s easier to maintain than correct.’’ These six students are the third class to matriculate in the two-year watchmaking course at the institute, a partnership between the luxury goods conglomerate Richemont,

P H O T O G R A P H s B Y mark mahaney

which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Baume et Mercier, and the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. They were picked from about 70 applicants after passing exams that test their math and verbal skills and their manual dexterity. Some are from Texas; others come from as far as New Jersey and California. Few ever intended on pursuing the craft, though: almost all of them fell into it, without any watchmaking experience. One student, 29-year-old Travis Hines, found his interests piqued while searching for an authentic working pocket watch for his Victorian-themed wedding. Another student, Steven Thompson, 47, sculptured chocolate as a pastry chef at the Four Seasons Dallas before taking an encasing course at the institute. The school’s only female pupil, Yen Vo, 27, started her career at a jewelry store. Upon graduation, they will have gone through 3,000 hours of training. Founded in 2008, the institute was born in part out of necessity: the need to keep Swiss watchmaking skills alive. ‘‘The traditional technical and artistic crafts that come along with watchmaking have been passed down from generation through generation,’’ said Hugues de Pins, president of Vacheron Constanin North America. This ‘‘intelligence of the hand,’’ as he calls it, takes years to master. ‘‘This itself is a challenge: the transmission of technical know-how.’’ Switzerland’s horological tradition, which dates back to

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I lifted them out, the second-year instructor Jessica Thakur warned that too much pressure would hurt ‘‘the poor little hands.’’ There’s a joke here that all surgeons should practice watchmaking before operating on actual humans. Yet all of this takes more than mere dexterity. ‘‘You need to be able to see things through and have those critical thinking skills,’’ said Curtis Miller, 28, a first-year student. Bennie Hernandez, a 24-year-old in his second year, told me that the most challenging part is overcoming his own ego. ‘‘There’s a lot of times when we’re asked to do things perfectly but it’s not always attainable on the first try,’’ he

“ ”

‘it’s a 100 percent human process to make a watch.’ said. ‘‘That for me is one of the toughest things: accepting that I can’t do things perfectly, but working through it to do the best I can.’’ Another student, Frank Kerner, 36, said the intense training in such a traditional craft makes him and his classmates ‘‘like samurai — nerdy samurai.’’ Indeed, the 11 students at the institute have a keen understanding that this is more than job training. When they graduate, only a few will apply for positions at Richemont (despite all tuition being paid for by the company, the school is not a precursor to employment); others will seek work in smaller jewelry stores. A few aren’t sure what they’ll do. But all recognize that they are, to use de Pins’s words, ‘‘guardians of tradition.’’ The students, he said, ‘‘have something different from the rest of humanity.’’ As for the half-inch-wide cube I began on my first day, it’s sitting here on my desk, half formed and certainly not flat. But that’s all right. I can hear McMahan in my ear, telling me that horology is like life itself: ‘‘all about becoming.’’ n

mark mahaney

Above, from left: Jessica Thakur, one of the institute’s instructors; adjusting a watch’s movement; Bennie Hernandez, a second-year student.

the Protestant Reformation, flourished in Switzerland since the 1500s. Artisans from all over the continent flocked to the country, establishing companies that still exist today. (Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755.) But after the quartz revolution of the 1970s and ’80s, when cheap watches could be mass produced in Asia, the Swiss market was decimated, and the mechanical movements mastered by the Swiss were set to become a thing of the past. Said Denis Jaquenoud, president of the N.A.I.O.S.W., ‘‘There was one industry that no one wanted to go into and that was the watch industry.’’ Most insiders credit one man with saving the Swiss watchmaking industry: Nicolas Hayek, the Lebanese-born businessman who took control of the newly formed Swatch brand and democratized mechanisms that had once been only for the rich. ‘‘He basically took a dying industry and revived it by making affordable Swiss watches, which was a new concept,’’ Jaquenoud said. In 2011 Swiss watches accounted for more than half of the global watch market, or $21.8 billion, according to a Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry report. Those numbers are only expected to grow, making it even more imperative for Richemont and other Swiss companies to replenish the ranks of horologists that were depleted in the 1980s. In addition to the school in Fort Worth, where Richemont already had a service center, there are satellite schools in Shanghai and Hong Kong. While lessons at the institute cover all types of watches, from high-end mechanical to quartz, the focus is on the specialized hand skills that have passed down through centuries. ‘‘It’s a complete, 100 percent human process to make a watch,’’ de Pins said of Vacheron Constantin pieces. ‘‘There is nothing automatized.’’ Students use handheld files to make perfect cubes for the ends of watch stems, or specialized tweezers to cut hair-thin springs for the mechanical movement. In some cases, they even make their own tools: one student fabricated a pair of brass tweezers to handle delicate metal parts. On my final day, I gently maneuvered hand levers into the .8 millimeter space between a Cartier watch face and its blued steel hands. As

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2 3 1

the checklist

party lines

when the DRESS CODE is COCKTAIL, mix EQUAL PARTS BLACK AND WHITe, add a touch of LACE, AND finish with a JEWEL-BOX BAG. JANE HERMAN 4

carolina herrera

stella mccartney

1. james de givenchy for taffin diamond, silver and rose-gold ear pendants, price on request. 2. proenza schouler basket-weave tweed dress, QR7,059, and Belt, QR1040.

3. jason wu a-line skirt with white embroidery, QR8,942; jasonwustudio. com. 4. newbark inez shoes, QR27,521; just one eye. 5. ann taylor flower pearl necklace, QR2,803; anntaylor.com. 6. oscar de la renta black and white elaphe print cara vanity case, QR7,847; oscardelarenta.com. 7. valentino cotton blouse with lace detail, QR2,883; bergdorf goodman.

still life P H O T O G R A P H s B Y grant cornett

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

prop styling by janine iversen

8. Michael kors ikat windowpane duchesse samantha pants, QR4,726; michaelkors.com. 9. kenneth cole ostrich-feather skirt, QR1,076; kennethcole.com. 10. louis vuitton micro-leopard long trench coat, about QR9,125; louisvuitton.com. 11. salvatore ferragamo embroidered egg clutch, QR11,315. 12. marc jacobs black and white diamond satin dress, QR3,631; marcjacobs.com. 13. david yurman pavĂŠ diamond pinkie ring, QR58,400.

grant cornett

14. alexander wang black and white ankle-strap pump, QR2,044. 15. chanel clutch, QR12,775.

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true grit

Last year, on a residency in Jaipur, india, the swiss designers lovis caputo and sarah kueng began experimenting with sand and pigment on a small scale, making objects and baking them in a microwave. back in zurich, they perfected a no-bake recipe. their ‘‘Sand’’ series, a collection of unique stools that can be used indoors or out, is available through Salon 94 (salon94.com) in New York City. alix browne

Carl Auböck has a venerable history and more than 4,500 products to its name, yet the century-old Viennese design company remains relatively obscure. ‘‘It always struck me as strange that people in design who seem to know everything about everything don’t know anything about this,’’ says Brian Janusiak of Project No. 8, who worked with the Austrian photographer Clemens Kois on ‘‘Carl Auböck: The Workshop,’’ out this month from powerHouse Books. Even those who have made a sport of hunting for Auböck’s signature brass hands and bookends may be surprised to learn that since 1912, the company has been led by four Carl Auböcks, one of whom palled around with Walter Gropius. Or that their wares encompass a staggering range of typologies, from paperweights (left) to oddities like sculptural pipe racks, cookie holders and paintbrush stands. As Kois points out, after World War II ‘‘we weren’t allowed to be loud. No one realized we were making such cool things.’’

Art in Residence

Undulating and forbidding, Oscar Niemeyer’s 1966 Edifício Copan in the heart of downtown São Paulo is one of the largest residential buildings in the world. It is home to thousands of people, about 70 businesses, and, as of September, a contemporary art center, Pivô. ‘‘The space was abandoned for the last 20 years,’’ says the artist Fernanda Brenner, who founded Pivô with a small team that includes the art historian Marta Ramos and the producer Tyaga Sa Brito. The labyrinthine layout, pieced together from a former storage space, a dental clinic and a storefront, may have made the location a hard sell, but at 38,000 square feet, it is an interesting place to display artwork. For the first round of shows, Pivô enlisted two local galleries and an independent curator to present projects that largely respond to or intervene with the architecture of the site. ‘‘Pivô is dedicated to process and experimentation rather than to finished products,’’ Brenner says, ‘‘and to promoting a dialogue between contemporary art and its place in the city.’’ KEVIN M C GARRY

MONICA KHEMSUROV

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

from top: courtesy of Salon 94; daniel athayde; Collection of mondo cane, 56.

Heart of Brass

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The Designer

Stephen Burks’s Manhattan studio, Readymade Projects, takes a ‘‘hybrid approach’’ to design, fusing cultural influences from around the globe.

The Things

His poufs are made of hand-cut lengths of Manila rope, dipped in black rubber and bound with ‘‘belts’’ of trimmings from the Italian fabric company Dedar.

The Outlook

Future projects include two lighting collections for Swarovski and accessories for Burks’s Dala outdoor line for the German company Dedon. photograph BY amy troost Fashion Editor: Jason Rider

fashion assistant: elena hale. grooming by lisa aharon at kate ryan inc. for laura mercier.

missoni jacket, qr6,040, cardigan,qr6,186, polo, qr2,792, and pants, qr3,102; missoni.com. his own missoni by converse sneakers.

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Far left: Pierre Yovanovitch stands in front of his collection of midcentury Cartonnages BonetPrassinos. Left: his 17th-century chateau in Provence. Below: his Paris living room contains massive oak couches of his own design covered in a Rogers & Goffigon wool.

profile in style

Pierre Yovanovitch the Seventh Arrondissement, it was a 1970s period piece, complete with black lacquered walls, wall-to-wall carpeting and a kitchen that had never been touched, let alone cooked in. ‘‘It was pretty ugly,’’ he admits. ‘‘But the situation is amazing — 14-foot ceilings, with one of the best views in Paris.’’ Indeed, the front rooms practically float over the Seine. Yovanovitch, who is known for chic, modern interiors, spent one year renovating the space, approaching it as he does all his projects — architecturally. ‘‘I always think about volumes before décor,’’ he says. His signature mix of sleek lines and light proportions with strong, tactile materials like oak, stone and steel and sinuous furnishings produce an effect that is spare but glamorous. ‘‘I don’t like a white box, like a gallery,’’ Yovanovitch says. ‘‘Minimal spaces don’t have to be stark. They should be sexy.’’ Sandra Ballentine

Left: oak paneling makes the large master bedroom in the Paris apartment seem more intimate. The bed cover was made with fabric from Holland & Sherry. Above: two of the designer’s favorite vintage books. Right: Yovanovitch has a soft spot for owls, so there is one in every room of the chateau. ‘‘I started collecting them because one sings outside the chateau every night.’’ 38

P ortrait B Y jean - fran ç ois jaussaud

living room, bedroom, books: jean-françois jaussaud (3).

When the Paris-based designer bought his apartment in

remix Left: the sitting room includes unfinished oak floors, reclaimed from an 18th-century Paris house, and a photograph by Elger Esser. Right: Yovanovitch sits with Stella, his Great Pyrenees, and Fuji, an Abruzzese shepherd puppy.

“ ”

‘I love natural materials like wood and stone — they are timeless but glamorous.’

Left: Yovanovitch designed the master bath’s Cascais stone vanity. Right: a large Sam Samore photograph presides over the sleek custom kitchen. The chandelier is by Nendo, one of Yovanovitch’s favorite contemporary studios. ‘‘It’s minimal but poetic,’’ he says. 40

jean-françois jaussaud

Above: steel stairs lead to the upper level of the designer’s duplex dressing room. Right: the sitting room contains vintage furnishings, including a lamp by Karl Springer, a Phillip Lloyd Powell cabinet and a coffee table by Paul Frankl.

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The Girl

The tennis star Venus Williams, four-time gold medalist and winner of 22 Grand Slam titles, is turning heads off the court with her interior design work.

The Sideline

In 2002, Williams started her design firm, V Starr, and has since completed several private projects, including the homes of NBA and NFL players.

Hair by Angela Meadows. Makeup by Kazumi Brown.

The Score

Williams’s first hotel venture is a pair of presidential suites — the Royal Palm (pictured) and the Metropolis — at the InterContinental Miami, part of the hotel’s total makeover. photograph BY Stefan ruiz Fashion Editors: Mallory Schlau and Jessica Baron Stella M c cartney jacket, QR4,726; barneys New York. Marni shirt, QR3,266; barneys.com. J brand pants, QR657; Barneys new york. miu miu shoes, QR2,171; miumiu.com. VHernier bracelet, price on request; saks fifth avenue.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

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Styled to a T

The Guy

As a boy growing up in Johannesburg, Kyle Tregurtha dreamed of big-city life in New York. Eventually he got his chance, when he moved to Manhattan as a teenager to live with his father, a private chef.

The Project

Now the creative director of Schier Shoes, in charge of rejuvenating a nearly 100-year-old Namibian shoe brand, Tregurtha splits his time between a loft in Bedford-Stuyvesant and the company’s factory in Swakopmund, Namibia.

The Shoes

Schier employs local artisans to manufacture its ‘‘vellies’’ — ancestors of the modern-day desert boot. The cobbling technique hasn’t changed since 1938, but Tregurtha (wearing a pair of vellies) has introduced wild colors, eco-friendly tanning and fair-wage practices. photograph BY Sarah nankin

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

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2013 IS A SPECIAL YEAR FOR THE

Doha Jewelry and Watches

EXHIBITION. THE INITIATIVE CELEBRATES ITS 10TH ANNIVERSARY. IT HAS MUCH CAUSE FOR CELEBRATION, BECAUSE IN ONE DECADE IT HAS BECOME A POWER PLAYER IN THE FINE JEWELRY AND WATCHES INDUSTRY. RAPID GROWTH AND THE ATTENDANCE OF MAJOR PLAYERS IN WATCHMAKING DEMONSTRATES THE IMPORTANCE OF THE QATAR MARKET AND THE ROLE THE EXHIBITION PLAYS IN STRENGTHENING THE VARIOUS BRANDS’ PRESENCES IN THE REGION.

DJWE:

decade

brilliance

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he exhibition was f irst conceptualized by Qatar Tourism Authority to provide a platform for family-owned businesses in Qatar to showcase their portfolios. Most of the luxury fine jewelry and watches brands were represented by a selection of family-run holding groups in the country. The exhibition was to help increase their visibility in the region. And while the exhibition has risen to a world-class level, the focus still remains on promoting these Qatari-owned businesses. The main vanguards of DJWE are Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewelry, Fifty One East, Amiri Gems, Alfardan Jewellery, Blue Salon, Al Majed Jewellery, Al Muftah Jewellery, Makki Jewellery, Marzook Al Shamlan, Paris Gallery and Al Zain. High-profile international brands featured in the show included Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Audemers Piguet, Richard Mille and Mont Blanc, Chopard, Chanel, Vacheron Constantin and Piaget, Zenith, Damiani, Maurice Lacroix and Ladoire, Palmiero, Jacob & Co, Concord and Franc Vila, Patek Philippe, Jaeger- LeCoultre, Century, Ebel and Giovanni Ferraris.

The 10th edition of the DJWE will take place from February 26 to March 3 at the Doha Exhibition Center. The event is expected to receive up to 50,000 visitors, with the confirmed participation of more than 500 luxury brands. For the first time, internationally renowned brands including Christie’s Jewelry from London and Matis Jewelry will be participating, making the first step towards entering the Qatar market. “Over the past decade the DJWE has proved to be a record-breaking event and this year is no exception. It provides the ideal platform for fruitful and highly productive business for all its visitors and exhibitors, so they can make the most of this brilliant exposition of some of the world’s finest precious stones and timepieces,” says chairman of QTA, H.E. Issa AlMohannadi. “The marketing campaign has been increased to a regional level because we really want to attract more international visitors. The design and structure of the exhibition will also be different this year and this is part of QTA’s strategy to innovate and improve the DJWE. There will be special celebrations and events to commemorate the 10th anniversary throughout the exhibition and we are quite excited that one of our exhibitors will be unveiling a very special diamond piece which is the only one in the world,” he said.

Harry Winston

focus on H2O

or its latest collection of incredible jewels, the House of Harry Winston pays tribute to the time-honored tradition with a contemporary collection exploring the wonders of the world's most precious elements: rare gemstones and water. Examining the infinite possibilities of rare jewels in the hands of Harry Winston designers and craftsmen, the collection is a discovery of the vast incarnations of water as it interacts with the natural world around it, focusing on its variations in color, movement, and form. Set in ultra-fine platinum wire, intricate compositions of fancy, shaped and pavĂŠ diamonds evoke the fluidity of tranquil rivers and streams, while delicate strands of brilliant pear-cut diamonds recall the cascading movement of majestic waterfalls. Rare gemstones in a shades of blue and green â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from deep sapphires and emeralds to icy aquamarines; from bright turquoise to vivid Paraiba â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mingle with diamonds to capture water's spectrum of colors. Featuring 19 newly created designs, this exquisite collection brings high jewelry on a journey to the heart of nature and the timeless wonders of Winston design.

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Watch

out! The irresistible

time pieces OF DJWE 2013

House of Perrelet Diamond Flower this is A special issue for women that focuses on pure colors, harmonious shapes, and modern and precious materials. Inspired by the enigmatic lotus flower, the watch features designs of delicate bouquets with diamond petals. The fiery red color of the dial and strap is available in either rubber or crocodile.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 With a limited edition production of only 188 pieces, the Excalibur 42 is a combination of elegance and watchmaking pedigree. The timepiece is available in a white gold case, with an onyx dial setting off elegant Roman numerals around a black lacquered flange. With a black, alligator, hand-stitched strap, the automatic watch is water resistant up to 30m. IT is distinguished by a slender shape that highlights its harmonious curves.

remix Qatar Carrera Y Carrera Welcoming the Year of the Snake To celebrate the Chinese calendar marking 2013 as the year of the Snake, this Spanish jeweller has launched the Serpiente Maxi pendant. A work of art that also functions as an adorning jewel, the pendant is available in both yellow and white gold with diamonds. The pendant is designed with the concept of an exaggerated piece with generous volumes reflecting art works, like a mini sculpture. The piece is aimed at promoting the Chinese belief that jewels attract good fortune.

IWC Schaffhausen The New Ingenieur Watch Collection The completely remodeled 2013 Ingenieur watch collection from IWC Schaffhausen focuses entirely on its new partnership with the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. For the next three years, the watch manufacturer will be the Official Engineering Partner of the Mercedes-Benz works team. For the new collection, IWC’s design engineers took their inspiration from Formula One materials typically used in motorsport, such as carbon fibre, ceramic and titanium. The four new models are the Ingenieur ConstantForce Tourbillon, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital, the Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance and the Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic.

Mont Blanc The Princesse Grace de Monaco Collection The Princesse Grace de Monaco Red Gold Automatic is a highlight piece from a special collection dedicated to the icon Grace Kelly. The delightfully warm hue of its 18 K red gold case is highlighted by the fire of 126 brilliant-cut diamonds, set in two rows along the oval bezel and weighing a total of circa 0.618 carat. This is beautifully matched by the gentle shimmer of white mother-of-pearl on the dial, which not only bears brilliantly cut diamonds weighing a total of circa 0.54 carat, but also boasts a rose-shaped pink sapphire. This watch’s face is simple with a date window at three o’clock, a feuille hour hand and a minute hand plated with red gold. The dial center features a slim second hand bearing Montblanc’s logo as a counterweight. The brand’s logo is also present on the red gold crown, where it appears in the form of a patented 43-facet Montblanc Diamond cut into the shape of the brand’s emblem and weighing 0.055 carat.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 370 Watch connoisseurs from the Middle East will get a rare opportunity to become owners of the breathtaking Limited Edition Bugatti Type 370 watch in white gold and diamonds. Priced at around QR1.3 million, the Type 370 watch in white gold and diamonds with a ten-day power reserve was created as a tribute to the high-flying creative spirit behind the Bugatti super car and is the first watch of its kind to use the revolutionary transverse movement pioneered by Parmigiani. Only six pieces of this unique model have been created and this is the last chance for watch collectors to get their hands on the masterpiece. The watch comes with an 18-carat white gold case encrusted with 130 brilliant-cut diamonds and a white mother of pearl dial.

Corum Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT The Seafender 47 Toubillon GMT joins Corum’s iconic Admiral’s Cup collection with a model that combines sporty lines and benchmark horological complications. With tourbillon and dual time zone, the new piece is powered by an automatic C0397 movement. With its generously sized 47 mm diameter, the Admiral’s Cup Seafender Tourbillon GMT is distinguished by its two logos, Corum and Admiral’s Cup, engraved directly on the inner face of its anti-reflective sapphire crystal. THIS feature can also be found on the screw-down back. The model is available in two versions, aluminium and 18kt gold.

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SAINT HONORE Opera Piano Combining the best of watch making, luxury materials and diamonds setting, this brand introduced the new Opera Piano Winter Set, available in seven different colours and finishes. Designed in a round case, the model comes in two different sizes, 33mm and 37mm with an extended case that matches the shape of the wrist for greater comfort. The watch also features the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special Ă&#x2030;clair Effect, a unique diamond pave using precious bezels and dials. And as the perfect gift, it is delivered in a luxury box with seven interchangeable straps, all with deploying buckles: Croco design leather in white, black or brown; varnished leather in beige, grey or purple; and black rubber.

Tag Heuer Carrera 2013 The Next Generation Tag Heuer celebrates 50th anniversary of its iconic Carrera collection with a special 2013 issue of four new watches. All the Carrera pieces feature the Calibre 1887 Movement, an integrated column-wheel watch movement that vibrates 28,800 times per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. The oscillating pinion, patented in 1887 by Edouard Heuer, works in tandem with the column wheel, in much the same way as an automobile transmission. The four new issues to look out for are: 41mm Chronograph, 41mm Heritage Chronograph, 43mm Racing Chronograph and the 43mm Ceramic Bezel Chronograph.

Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige Vacheron Constantin’s 1972 collection has been making an impression for over four decades. Today, there is a new men’s version of this timeless icon inspired by the original. Like the 1972 creation, the most recent arrival displays the balanced asymmetry that strictly follows the proportions of the golden section. Made of white gold, the new 1972 Prestige also houses a precious ultra-thin mechanical movement. A model of sophistication and elegance, this new icon bears the Poinçon de Genève.

A.Lange & Söhne: Datograph For more than a decade, A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph was considered by many to be the quintessential chronograph. Now, with its newest model, Lange’s engineers have proven that excellence can always be taken one step further. With a power reserve extended to 60 hours, a power-reserve indicator, and a proprietary oscillation system, the new DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN shines in a platinum case enlarged to a diameter of 41 millimetres. Amongst other refinements, the latest DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN features the comfortable but technically complex flyback function found in very few chronographs. Originating from the early days of aviation, this mechanism makes it possible to perform instantly consecutive time measurements by combining three steps – stop, reset, restart – into one: one single push of a button will stop and reset the Datograph UP/DOWN in the middle of an ongoing time measurement. When the button is released, a new time measurement is initiated immediately.

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Mouawad:

Designed

to stun CO-FOUNDER FRED MOUAWAD TALKS NEW PLANS AND QATAR’S PRODUCT EXPECTATIONS FOR THE MULTINATIONAL COMPANY, KEEPING THE NEW YEAR’S WORLDWIDE JEWELRY MARKET IN MIND ALONG THE WAY.

t is going to be a big year for Mouawad, starting off with the opening of its first boutique in Qatar just two months ahead of the prestigious 10th Doha Jewelry and Watches Exhibition. And that is just the tip of the iceberg. Expansion plans are in motion for the opening of new generation boutiques in Abu Dhabi, Jeddah and Riyadh while the new boutique in the royal Opera Galleria Muscat will be officially inaugurated. T-Qatar meets co-founder and managing partner Fred Mouawad to talk about the exciting developments in jewelry and watches in the region.

Tell us about Mouawadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agenda for 2013. In the pipeline for this year is the debut of the Mouawad Watch Line, which is entirely realized in our workshops in the Swiss Alps. We have made watches for over 40 years, but this will be the first collection to bear the Mouawad name and we are particularly proud of it. And, of course, we have new Boutique Collections and haute joaillerie sets that will be introduced in all our stores across the year, included the recently opened boutique at Lagoona Mall-Doha. But this is just the beginning. We have other exciting plans for the second half of the year and you will

for sure hear a lot more from Mouawad. How do you think the market in 2013 will be, and how is the brand catching the waves of this? We had a very positive 2012 and are optimistic that 2013 will be another great year for us. We see great potential in this market, and for this reason we decided to focus our investment in the Gulf region. And we plan on opening new boutiques: five in 2012 and three more in 2013. Along with this, we'll keep investing in our brand, in our designers and craftspeople. The quality of our products has made us stand out for 123 years and we want to keep on with the same promise. What should jewelry aficionados be expecting this year? They can expect from Mouawad some surprises and a lot of exciting new products. New Boutique Collections, which have been designed by our master designers, will be introduced in all our boutiques across 2013; the Mouawad Watch Line, which I mentioned earlier, will also soon be available in our stores. What are some exclusive, custom-made pieces the brand has produced for this market? Some of our most important and trusted patrons are based here in Qatar, and they own some of the finest and rarest haute joaillerie sets that we have ever realized. Based on our 123 years of expertise in the jewellery industry, we have

noticed that Arab women have a preference for important jewellery pieces and big stones. Do you have anything special planned to commemorate the 10th anniversary of DJWE? Yes, we have planned to unveil a very precious and unique piece on the opening day of the DJWE. This special item has never been seen before in the region and will be presented for the first time ever to the visitors of the exhibition. This will be Mouawad's special gift for the 10th anniversary of what we believe is the top event for the luxury market in the Middle East. Last year, which were your most memorable displays and most noteworthy sales? What do you predict for this edition? Last year at the show we unveiled the Snow White Princess Diamond Watch, a spectacular diamond-studded wrist watch crafted from 18K white gold and meticulously layered with 223 colorless diamonds. The watch, with its 106.93 carats, is worth an estimated QR24.8 million (USD 6.8 million). Every year the DJWE attracts jewelry lovers from all around the world. The exhibition is a good opportunity for us to meet with some of our existing and most important clientele, as well as with some potential new clients. This will be our fifth year at the exhibition and we have no doubt that it will be as successful as the previous editions.

remix Qatar

“This region loves the ‘WOW’ factor.”

Fashion-forward Jeremy Morris talks about the relationship that the brand David Morris has cultivated with qatar.By DEBRINA ALIYAH

man with a very stylish view of the world, Jeremy Morris does not fit the stereotype of a 40-something British jeweler. Neither does he want to. Crafting out visions and strategies that are pragmatic is what Jeremy excels in. This is something that has proved to be successful, judging by the brand’s rapid global expansion since Jeremy received the business from his father, the legendary David Morris.

The eponymous jewelry brand David Morris celebrated its golden jubilee in 2012 and Doha was one of the few cities honored with a private celebration. Jeremy has a soft spot in his heart for Qatar, a market that he began cultivating about 15 years ago. With a unique demand for big jewels, the women in Doha are ever so receptive to Jeremy’s inspiring new designs and styles. But the journey to get here has not been an easy one, he says, as he opens up about the colossal task of stepping into his father’s shoes. What has the journey been like, continuing your father’s legacy?

It has been a grueling experience. My parents had a strong concept of how they saw the brand, and I had very different views. But one thing that was consistent was that we understood the brand had to be fashion-forward, design-oriented and of top quality. I wanted something that was easily recognizable, but my parents wanted a multibrand concept produced by different manufacturers. The transition was difficult, but time heals everything. I guess after a while they realized it was time for them to step back, and I slowly proved myself to them. I hope I would be better with my children, although I wouldn’t expect my kids to take over the business. It was different for me because I was brought up in the jewelry environment and the business surrounded my life. I was lousy at school so I was kind of expected to step into my father’s shoes.

David Morris is not some place where you come in just to buy one thing and leave, it’s a step beyond that.

What has been an important milestone for you so far? The 50th anniversary is my milestone, and the next 10 years – that will be my time. I want to increase the global presence. The brand now tailors the look of the inventory to each region. For example, Asia loves smaller and highend colored precious stones, while this region loves the “wow” factor, which is on a different end of spectrum. I am always looking for what’s new, and I have the constant push to keep innovating. Demand is the main factor that

drives me to expansion. I like to follow my instincts, so if a lot of people from a certain country come to Bond Street and buy, I will respond to that market. At the end of the day, David Morris is not a brand for everyone. It’s not some place where you come in just to buy one thing and leave, it’s a step beyond that. What’s a source of inspiration for you? I follow fashion a lot and read all the magazines to keep myself up-to-date. I don’t operate in a bubble so I’m very much in touch with what women want. A lot of brands start to look old because they are not innovative enough. I am open-minded enough to constantly accept changes to respond to the market’s changing needs. I have had a good patronage in this highly competitive industry and that means I must be doing something right. I send testers out into the market and if they start to move well, I continue to develop the concept from there. What are some new, exciting things coming up for the brand? At the moment, we are developing dual-pieces jewelry – rings worn on two fingers and earrings that you can wear on two parts of your ears. It’s very trendy but we are making it high-end. That’s what I mean – taking a fashion idea and turning it into a valuable item. How has the Qatar market evolved since you first came here? Our relationship with Qatar started about 15 years ago when the royal family started coming to buy stuff and we adjusted our taste to their requirements. It is not typically Arabian designs but has influences of Arabic, India and Asia with European aesthetics. Qatari women are looking for a touch of glamor and sexiness. My jewelry is a step up from the traditional designs – it is much more progressive.

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A look back at the growth of David Morris 1962 Goldsmith and designer David Morris establishes David Morris Jewels at 37 Hatton Garden, London. 1963 A striking brooch composed of a circular spray of marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds, jointly conceived by David Morris and his design partner Anne Seymour, receives the ninth De Beers Diamonds International Award. 1964 A lavish tapered bracelet of flexible diamond ribbons embellished with large round diamond snowflakes and marquise diamond stars, created by David Morris and Anne Seymour, receives the tenth De Beers Diamonds International Award. 1967 The Government of Liechtenstein commissions David Morris to create a sapphire and diamond tiara which is presented to Countess Marie Kinski and Crown Prince Hans Adam Liechtenstein at their July wedding. 1969 David Morris moves to Mayfair, opening a showroom and workshop on Conduit Street. 1971 David Morris commences his relationship with Eon Productions, the film company known for producing the James Bond series. Magnificent David Morris diamonds beautify the slick title sequence of Diamonds are Forever. 1972 David Morris is commissioned to redesign the Miss World Crown, still in use today. 1974 As 'Miss Anders', Maud Adams flaunts David Morris jewels whilst seducing Roger Moore's James Bond in The Man With the Golden Gun. 1980 Harrods, Knightsbridge, opens the David Morris Jewellery Room. 1986 David Morris collaborates with Catherine Deneuve to create a jewellery collection. 1996 David Morris opens at 180 New Bond Street â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a townhouse with a French Dixhuiti facade of cast stone originally built by Scots architect William Flockhart in 1908. The same year, David Morris commissions a series of portraits by Lord Lichfield; amongst those sitting for the photographer are Lady Victoria Hervey, Jodie Kidd, Amanda Wakeley and Jasmine Guinness.

1997 Teri Hatcher stars in Tomorrow Never Dies as Paris Carver, wearing the 'Bond Necklace' by David Morris. Photographs by Mark Liddell of Yasmin Le Bon, Kylie Minogue and Kate Moss wearing David Morris jewels are auctioned to raise money for the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Fund. 1999 Denise Richards works alongside Pierce Brosnan's Bond in The World is not Enough wearing David Morris Jewellery. 2000 In Snatch, Guy Ritchie's diamond heist thriller, Jeremy Morris' design studio features as the office of Avi Denovitz, the diamond dealer portrayed by Dennis Farina. 2002 Opening at 305 Worth Avenue, David Morris becomes the first British jeweller to operate a Palm Beach, Florida boutique. 2003 Jeremy Morris is appointed managing director and principal designer of David Morris. 2004 David Morris expands to Moscow, Russia. 2005 Jeremy Morris appoints famed London interior designer David Collins to conceive a new look for the London flagship store. Completing the project a year later, the aura of refined modern glamour reflects the character of David Morris fine jewellery. 2006 David Morris expands to Dubai, opening in the Dubai Mall. Renowned fashion photographer Ellen Von Unwerth puts her stamp on the new David Morris advertising campaign, producing instantly recognisable photographs in her sleek, high-contrast style. 2007 David Morris expands to Saudi Arabia, opening a boutique in Riyadh's exclusive Centria Mall. 2011 David Morris opens a boutique in The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong, with David Collins once again designing the interior of the store. To coincide with the 2012 Golden Anniversary of David Morris, celebrated photographer Horst Diekgerdes shoots 3 classically beautiful British women; Yasmin Le Bon, Jasmine Guinness and Sofia Fisher. These are complemented by sumptuous still life photographs by the brilliant duo of Coppi Barbieri. 2012 David Morris celebrates 50 years of creating beautiful jewellery. To mark the occasion, David Morris donates an iconic pair of white gold and diamond micro-set earrings from the Heritage Collection to the V&A Museum's Jewellery Gallery.

Atmos, a tribute to the artist Gustav Klimt

leading player in watchmaking since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre is celebrating its 180th anniversary. At a time when the Swiss horological industry was still built around home-based workshops, Antoine LeCoultre and his son Elie decided to unite under one roof the many forms of expertise involved in making a watch. LeCoultre & Cie thus became the first manufacture of the Vallée de Joux. It now houses the over 180 skills required to develop and produce the most prestigious timepieces. The fifth work in the series of Atmos clocks created in tribute to Gustav Klimt is inspired by The Waiting, part of the artist’s famous frieze adorning Stoclet House, a mansion built by a Brussels banker. The original marble and coloured stone mosaic has been faithfully rendered by a meticulous marquetry motif covering the glass crystal cabinet. This exceptional model, which will be produced in a strictly limited 10-piece edition, combines the skills of the artistic crafts cultivated by manufacture with the fascination exercised by the Atmos clock. The latter’s apparently mysterious operation has for 80 years symbolised one of the most amazing and successful attempts to invent perpetual motion.

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Bulgari conquers the challenge of polychromy ince its beginning, Bulgari has favored the use of colored stones over diamonds. It could be said that their acheivement lies in successfully overturning the longstanding traditional hierarchy of gemstones in high jewelry. For decades the triad â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ruby, emerald and sapphire â&#x20AC;&#x201C; had been used exclusively in combination with diamonds. This conventional approach resulted inevitably in rather predictable color combinations, where the vibrant red, green or blue was offset only by white diamonds. In order to overcome this monotony, Bulgari, especially from the mid-60s and onward, began to revolutionize jewlery design with an innovative and daring process. It started with combining rubies, sapphires and emeralds not only with diamonds, but also among themselves in bold combinations of colours such as red, green and white (rubies, emeralds and diamonds), or red, blue and white (rubies,

sapphires and diamonds). Gradually, however, Bulgari began combining rubies, emeralds and sapphires with less precious but equally beautiful gemstones such as amethysts, citrines, tourmalines, coral, pearls and garnets. This led to wider range of colors, including new and underutilized shades of violets, pinks, deep reds, greens and yellows. The result has been an almost endless choice of chromatic combinations ranging from bold juxtapositions of primary colors to more subtle combinations of graduated hues. The lively and striking color combinations for which Bulgari is known across the world are not the result of haphazard juxtaposition of gemstones; on the contrary, they are the culmination of a lengthy process of thought and attention to design. Just as a composer works out the rules of harmony and rhythm when writing music, Bulgari, in a similar fashion, assembles and combines various colored gems according to precise rules.

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ONE TO WATCH FOR Officine Panerai presents the new Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio, a sophisticated haute horlogerie model in which the classic Panerai design is perfectly combined with the technical aspects of high quality sports watch making. The Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio is a split-seconds chronograph with vertical clutch and twin column wheels, and it offers numerous functions that are characteristic of top-of-the range mechanical watch making, all assembled in the P.2006 movement, entirely developed and created in the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuch l. The split-seconds function, also known as rattrapante, operates two hands that are superimposed and partially independent: the first is entirely controlled by the button at 8 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, which starts, stops and resets the chronograph hand; the second, controlled by the button at 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, is used for measuring partial times or a second event simultaneous with the first. To make it easier and clearer to read, the hand of the small minute counter moves in jumps instead of continuously. The P.2006 hand-wound movement has a long power reserve of eight days, a traditional duration for Panerai watches. This is achieved by means of a special patented system of three spring barrels. The remaining power reserve can be read on the dial from a linear indicator above the number six. The Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio has a brushed titanium case 47 mm in diameter, fitted with the classic lever device which hermetically seals the winding crown to ensure water-resistance to 10 atmospheres (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres). Identified by the reference PAM00530 and produced in a limited edition, the new Luminor 1950 Rattrapante 8 Days Titanio is supplied with a rubber strap. It is part of the of the Officine Panerai Specialities collection.

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WHERE ART MEETS FASHION

Gucci announced a unique collaboration between Creative Director Frida Giannini and renowned Japanese Manga artist, Hirohiko Araki. Inspired by Giannini’s 2013 Cruise Collection, Araki has created an exclusive Manga (Japanese comic strip) story that will bring the windows of Gucci’s worldwide direct store network to life in January and February. The unique window display will be visible in the Gucci Mall of Emirates and Dubai Mall Boutique from January 7, 2013 and in Gucci store in Villagio Mall Doha from January onwards. Commenting on the collaboration Giannini said, “This has without doubt been one of the most enjoyable collaborations I have worked on. The characters that Hirohiko has conceived combine an energy, sensuality and appeal that brings my Cruise collection to life in such a fun and compelling way. I am quite sure his window installations will stop people in their tracks in cities around the world as they immerse themselves in the fabulous fantasy world he has created. Titled, “Jolyne, Fly High with Gucci,” Araki’s Manga tells the adventure of Jolyne Cujoh, a student who inherits a keepsake from her mother’s Gucci collection. Propelled by the mystery behind her vintage treasure, she embarks on a journey that transcends time. Echoing the sensual color palette and graphic undertones of Giannini’s Cruise collection with symbolic references to the House’s iconic Flora pattern that has been reinterpreted in a number of the collection’s signature pieces, Araki’s extraordinary technique gives a three dimensional effect to his characters. “I have always been fascinated by Italy and it is a great pleasure and honor for me to collaborate with Gucci, a brand that truly stands for design and tradition in Italy. Hirohiko Araki said, “Frida’s beautiful Cruise collection with its strong colors and graphic designs set my mind racing the moment she showed it to me. From there the characters and storyline came into being so naturally. It was very stimulating to work together on this project. The special Araki window installation will roll out across more than 70 Gucci boutiques around the world from January 3, 2013 and will remain until mid-February.

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focus on the customer Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Doha Showroom, General Manager Mohamed Kandeel said, “This new facility will not only allow us to match our sales growth with our physical growth, but also underlines our ambition to achieve greater results in the coming years with even greater focus on customer convenience.”

Rolls-Royce Doha embarks on an exciting era Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Doha celebrated the launch of its newly-expanded showroom in the Pearl-Qatar with a press conference followed by a prestigious event attended by a host of high-profile guests and VIPs. The new and refreshed facility is a culmination of an impressive first three quarters of the business for the Rolls-Royce Motor Cars importer in Qatar, and will mark an exciting new era for the luxury car brand in Qatar. The redeveloped flagship facility, which was initially inaugurated in 2009, has been expanded from 580 square metres to cover a total area of 750 square metres. This is a 30% increase in space to fit seven cars in display, including a new dedicated area for the Rolls-Royce Provenance Programme cars, the approved programme for pre-owned Rolls-Royce Motor Cars. The new showroom also has a customer lounge, refreshments bar, and a configuration area to enable Rolls-Royce Motor Cars clients to customize and tailor their vehicles. Commenting on the landmark opening, Geoff Briscoe, Regional Director, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Middle East, Africa & Latin America, said: “The Middle East is a crucial market for Rolls-Royce Motor Cars, and the excellent performance and support of our partner in Qatar compliments this unprecedented success drive in the region. The investment in this impressive facility is testament to the continued opportunities that lie ahead in Doha.” Located in Porto Arabia in the Pearl-Qatar, the renewed Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Doha showroom is open from Saturdays to Thursday from 10am to 10pm and on Fridays from 5 to 10pm.

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BMW hosts international Golf Cup Amateur golfers were given a chance to secure their place in the World Finals of the BMW Golf Cup International in the second BMW Golf Cup International 2012, organised by Alfardan Automobiles, the BMW Group importer in Qatar, at the Doha Golf Club on December 14, 2012. More than 150 players participated in the 18-hole Individual Stableford Event, with golfers falling into three categories: Mens Category A (Handicap 1-12 and Mens Category B (Handicap betwen 13 to 28) and Ladies Category with a handicap between up to 36. The 18-hole championship course posed a real challenge for the players, providing an exciting day of golf. Chris Sharkey was the Mens Category A winner with 35 Stableford points; whilst Dean Kenneally finished on top in Mens Category B with 40 and Tasnem Kazi won the ladies category. The three winners of the national round in Qatar will be flown to the BMW Golf Cup International Finals in Fancourt Resort, South Africa in March 2013 where they will tee off against more than 100 other golfers representing over 30 countries. The tournament, which is sponsored by Qatar Airways, the official airline carrier and T-Qatar Magazine, the media sponsor, and Kempinski Residence and Suites also displayed a range of BMW and BMW Motorrad models where participants had the opportunity to enjoy Sheer Driving Pleasure through BMW test drive vehicles and BMW Motorrad bikes. In addition, BMW Lifestyle items were on display at the event. “Golf enjoys a special relationship with BMW, and we are committed to hold the BMW Golf Cups every year, which is another exciting way to promote our new BMW vehicles. Both the Golf sport and BMW are exclusive, elegant and stylish-a perfect match for the brand’s premium character.” said Mohammad Kandeel, General Manager of Alfardan Automobiles. Equally noteworthy that the winners of 2011 BMW Golf Cup Qatar; David Borrows, Nasser Ali Al-Kaabi and Yanling Wang have represented Qatar in last year’s finals in Singapore and achieved the 22nd position worldwide. 50

Bentley makes its mark on Qatar Al Wajba Motors organized a road show for the new Continental GT V8 Convertible at the Admiral Club, Ritz Carlton Hotel, Doha. More than 100 guests gathered over the three-day event to see the spectacular new convertible and the rest of the magnificent Bentley range. The new 4.0-litre, twin turbocharged Continental GT V8 Convertible and its coupe counterpart the Continental GT V8 Coupe, achieve exceptional standards for power-to-emissions in the high luxury sports car sector. Now the cooler weather has reached Qatar the new Bentley Continental GT V8 Convertible offers the perfect climate to enjoy driving with the roof down. This remarkable new Bentley V8 engine delivers maximum power of 500 bhp (507 PS/ 373KW) at 6,000 rev/min. With a new close-ratio eight-speed automatic transmission, this translates into a 0-100 km/h sprint time of 4.8 seconds and a top speed of 188 mph (303 km/h). The instantly recognizable growl of the new 4.0-litre Bentley Continental GT V8 engine sets it apart from its Bentley stablemates. Bentley Middle East Regional Director Chris Buxton said: “With the new 4.0-litre V8 engine we are widening the appeal of the latest generation of Continentals, introducing a completely new driving experience. Qatar is an extremely important market for Bentley and we are 12% up in sales volume thanks to the hard work and dedication of our Qatar parnter, Al Wajba Motors, as more and more people in Qatar appreciate the exceptional performance and handcrafted beauty of a Bentley.” VIP guests were invited to experience the new Bentley Continental GT V8 Convertible as well as the Continental GT V8 Coupe, the Continental GT W12 Coupe, the Flying Spur and the Mulsanne. Over 20 Bentley customers joined together to form a convoy of Bentley vehicles that enjoyed a drive together to the Corniche in Doha. Here, witnesses were able to see the entire range and many different variations of Bentley vehicles. Furthermore, the owner of Al Wajba Motors, Sheikh Abdulrahman bin Ahmed M. Al Thani, believes that offering test drives is the best way to offer prospective customers a chance to experience a Bentley. The company intends to host many more driving events in the future. Bentley Qatar will be opening a new state-of-the-art showroom in early 2013 which will reflect the brand growth in Qatar and assist the ever-increasing growth of Bentley Qatar.

SATCHELS OF STYLE This Spring/Summer Tod’s bags have added a new addition to their family; the Double Stripe Collection for men. A range in soft calfskin leather designed for all types of usage, from daytime to night time, from professional to recreational and from office and business travel to weekends away for pleasure. The name is derived from the double leather stripe that decorates each piece. The Double Stripe Collection typifies Tod’s philosophy of combining modern design excellence with traditional quality and handmade manufacturing techniques. It bears all the hallmarks of Made in Italy, while being made for men of the world. The inspiration for this new addition comes from the values of Tod’s lifestyle that recognizes the need modern men have for flexible and functional accessories that can adapt to a multitude of uses and situations, while always retaining an air of modern elegance. Thus, there are nine different styles available in the Double Stripe Collection, including a weekend bag, a document case, a sporty hold-all, a satchel with a shoulder strap, two types of soft briefcase and a messenger bag, all of which are available in two different materials. The models come in six different colors that range from brown and black to contemporary green, red and blue. The collection is enriched by precious details that make all the bags versatile and reliable: double and inside pockets, zip, snap hooks for removable handles, and a strong double stitching to make them more resistant. The stripes can be customized to the customer’s specifications to reflect their favorite combination, choosing from a range of 12 different colors. Customers can also have monograms added on a leather label hand-stitched on the bags. The items will be available in selected Tod’s boutiques worldwide from February 2013.

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Fast gets furious

The sixth generation 2013 Maserati Quattroporte will keep to traditions while living up to its lineage. By arr reem

local dealers: Alfardan Automobiles

t is remarkable how a simple expression like “fourdoor” in Italian sounds extravagant. So it is but natural that Maserati Quattroporte gained cult status, aided by the fact that it is one of the fastest sedans steeped in Italian design aesthetics. Maserati first produced the Quattroporte in 1963, a concept which germinated when a special four-door car was made by Italian design house Pietro Frua, commissioned by Prince Aga Khan. It is befitting the brand that its 50th anniversary is being heralded by the introduction of a new edition. The 2013 Maserati Quattroporte takes a leap forward setting a high-technology tone for the brand’s upcoming new-model onslaught, while remaining faithful to its long history in luxury sports saloons. And this sixth-generation Maserati Quattroporte is big not only in size but also in ambition, with the parent company Fiat investing 1.2 billion euros (QR5.9 billion) in the brand’s future. The muchapplauded outgoing Quattroporte enjoyed a reputation of being among the fastest executive sedans of its day, while delivering the sportiest overall ride and handling. The new avatar, which will debut at the Detroit auto show, promises to live up to the lineage and even attract a broader audience. Though it is getting larger, mostly in the rear passenger area, the design team has maintained the earlier car’s sense of visual balance and proportion, making the new model “fit inside its lines.” The engine still sits low in the chassis, and as far back toward the firewall as will fit. The result is a 50/50 weight distribution in the V8 model. It is also 100kg lighter, thanks mainly to extensive use of aluminium. The lightweight bonnet, front wings, doors, boot lid, suspension and damper towers all help to reduce the kerbweight to 1890kg. At the heart of the new Quattroporte is an entirely new engine grid designed inhouse by Maserati Powertrain and manufactured under contract by Ferrari at Maranello. This flagship 3.8-litre,V8 engine is a perfect representation of Maserati’s performance tradition combined with a 20% reduction in emissions. Though almost a liter smaller in capacity than the engine it replaces, it employs direct injection and a pair of turbochargers to deliver 18% more power – 390kW at 6800rpm – and 39%

more torque – 650Nm between 2000-4000rpm. Completing the sprint to reach triple figures in 4.7 seconds, the new Quattroporte V8 is the fastest-accelerating four-door car in Maserati’s history, while its 307km/h top speed makes it the second fastest Maserati production car behind the V12powered MC12 supercar. In the best Maserati tradition, the car maintains the classic and rich sound characteristic of the brand. While in the default Normal mode, comfortable and discreet engine sound can be heard. In sport mode, not only does the car adjust a variety of handling parameters, but the exhaust valves are opened, giving the shortest possible high-energy route for the exhaust gases. This gives the Quattroporte its maximum engine performance and the unique engine sound that is classic Maserati. The interior of the new Quattroporte seems to have gone

The interior of the new Quattroporte seems to have gone through a design rethink. through a design rethink. The increase in the size has brought a huge evolution in roominess for the front and especially the rear passengers. Its increased wheelbase has allowed Maserati to add more rear legroom, more shoulder room for all passengers and more luggage capacity. Elegant simplicity and clean lines of the cabin are unmistakeable. The driver interface is intuitive and simple-to-use, and the instrument cluster has a large speedometer and a large tachometer that flank a 7” TFT display used for many of the car’s operational features. The leather-finished steering wheel is electrically adjustable for both reach and height, while the pedals are also adjustable, moving towards the driver at the touch of a button mounted at the front of the driver’s seat. The drive exposes or even amplifies the car’s dual personality; it has the poise and presence of a limo with a heart and performance of a sports car. 53

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Qatar Motor ShoW’s bejeweled and classic cars captive THERE were some DELICIOUS TREATS FOR QATAR’S MANY MOTORHEADS AT THE DOHA EXHIBITION CENTER IN JANUARY AND FEBRUARY AS THE WORLD’S GREATEST AUTOMOBILE MANUFACTURERS SHOWCASED THEIR LATEST DESIGNS AND CRAFTS.

is Excellency Sheikh Hamad bin Jassim bin Jaber Al Thani, Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs of Qatar, launched the 2013 Qatar Motor Show on January 28. This motor show was open to the public from January 29 to February 2. Co-hosts Qatar Tourism Authority (QTA), q.media Events, and GL Events, are confident that the year’s motor show will see record-breaking attendance. “120,000 visitors walked through the doors of the 2012 Qatar Motor Show, but with more exhibitors this year, more events, premieres and regional interest there is no doubt that this year’s visitor numbers will be exceeded,” according to the organisers. Twenty-six new cars were revealed at the 2013 Qatar Motor Show, a new milestone for the show as it is significantly greater than last year’s premieres. Audi, Volkswagen, Porsche, Bertone, Ford, Ferrari, Kia, Maserati, McLaren, Mercedes, Mini, Mitsubishi, and Toyota will regionally premiere their latest models. In addition, Bentley, Brabus, Lamborghini and W Motors showcased models never seen before. T-Qatar picks some of the best.

The Middle East’s first hypercar One of the most anticipated world premieres was the W Sports futuristic Lykan Hypersport 2013. The first hypercar designed in the Middle East, the Lykan Hypersport wooed visitors with its high-performance specs and luxurious styling (which includes diamond-encrusted LED lights). Only seven of this model will be produced, and each will be offered for almost QR12.4 million. Lykan CEO Ralph Debbas said, “This is history in the making...”

Updated MINI delivers speed, sleekness Alfardan Automobiles unveiled its latest MINI Cooper, the Paceman. The new Mini blends SUV functionality with the smaller, sleeker design known in coupés. Its athletic but elegant look is accented by new horizontal taillights, elongated doors and rising shoulders. Alfardan also revealed its speediest MINI ever, the John Cooper Works BP.

New design language for Jaguar The two-seater Jaguar F-TYPE delivers modern, more dynamic driving and a cleaner look. First seen in the Middle East at the 2013 Qatar Motor Show, it “isn’t designed to be like any other sports car,” said Justin Weaving, Regional Sales Director for Jaguar Land Rover MENA. “It feels alive.”

Brabus 800 Widestar: the new 12-cylinder off-roader With the Brabus 800 engine conversion, Brabus offers owners of the new Mercedes G 65 AMG a fascinating performance upgrade. A sprint time of just 4.2 seconds to 100 km/h (62 mph), an electronically limited top speed of 250 km/h (155 mph) and the optional wide-body version complete with 23-inch forged wheels, available in various versions, set the tuned off-roader far apart from the rest. The electrically adjustable ride control suspension offers a perfect symbiosis of excellent ride comfort and safe, agile handling.

Quattroporte sports car mixes modern and classic A revolutionary leap forward in design, the sixth-generation Maserati Quattroporte was revealed at the Show. It follows a 50-year legacy of utility and luxury, but boasts improvement in performance, engineering and other areas. Its 3.8-litre, twin turbo V8 and 3.0-litre, twin turbo V6 engines are all-new and Maserati-designed.

Porsche has an exclusive line-up Porsche showcased not one, but four exclusive highlights from its model range. The exclusive line-up includes the regional premieres of the highly anticipated Cayenne Turbo S, new generation Cayman and 911 Carrera 4, the icon’s four-wheel drive version. In addition, the German manufacturer is presenting one of the first Panamera Platinum Edition models that arrived in the market. The elegant special edition Panamera, also available as Panamera 4 and Panamera Diesel, stands out thanks to its subtle, independent design features in platinum, silver and metallic ,combined with expanded standard features and exclusive details. The model, which can be ordered in five exterior colours, is now available across the region.

BMW Pearl Series, tailored to your needs The highlight of the BMW stand was the BMW Pearl Series, the latest creation from their customised optioning programme – BMW Individual, which enables customers to tailor their vehicle to a bespoke design that suits their individual style. A collection of specially designed and produced BMW 7 Series and 6 Series Individual models, the BMW Pearl Series have been produced and inspired by the Pearl – the treasure that brought the region its first taste of wealth. BMW Individual designers were challenged to transfer the mystery, elegance and beauty of the Pearl to a BMW 7 Series and 6 Series Gran Coupé.

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Menswear designer Umit Benan is skyrocketing up the charts, finding fans in critics and consumers alike. His aesthetic is one of purposeful dishevelment, outsized tops, tweaked proportions on classic line tailoring, baggy pants and crinkly jackets â&#x20AC;&#x201C;all of it fresh as can be in a landscape often decimated by the skinny and the monochrome.

umit, unfiltered 58

Your last collection received high praise across the board – what can we expect to see in January for F/ W13? A fresh start? Or a development on the themes introduced in S/S13? In January, you will see a dream street at three in the morning. It’s inspired by the late night cruising I used to do in my car, during the college years. So there’s always a strong and precise theme. What are you tired of seeing in menswear? Women :) (emoticon included). Where have you seen the most demand for your designs? Japan. It’s selling very well over there. For your clients in the Middle East, are there any deciding factors in what they’re looking for? Do certain elements/trends/styles work better in the MENA region than elsewhere? I think it’s a specific region and market, where not every kind of product will work. Weight is very important, as the climate is pretty warm! Do you have one (or more) consistent source(s) of inspiration? Something you always go back to? Many. It could be from travel. A movie. A friend. A great night out, with surprises. Or, dreaming very early in the morning. What’s your newest tattoo? (Benan frequently gets inked). Annem. It means “Mom” in Turkish.

is S/S13 collection is especially strong and true to code – here, the designer paired striped knits with window-paned wovens, cornflowerblue leather over high-rise pants, and Terry Richardson-esque flannel checks with matching shorts. Benan also imbued a sense of cool reality in this season’s presentation – swapping out the cheek-boned and gaunt models de rigueur for street-cast men, beards and wrinkles included. Here, Benan sinks in his teeth on everything from late night dreaming to fresh ink to the hype/lunacy of those who so desperately need social validation by appearing on street-style blogs.

Who do you think will take the helm at Balenciaga? Note: interview occurred before Alexander Wang was hired. I don’t know. It doesn’t really matter because, in my opinion, no one is capable of doing a better job than him for the brand. What is your opinion on the street-style phenomenon at fashion shows these days? I first found it inspiring and exciting for the world of the Internet. But now, I can’t stand it. It is over the limit now. It’s nonsense attention that makes all these people feel like they are on top of the world, where in reality, it’s a joke.

IM AGES COU RTESY OF U MI T BENA N.

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Khaleda Rajab

LIVING THE DREAM

The Middle East is fast becoming a regional magnet for luxury brands. With fashion bloggers growing in abundance, Arab designers gaining global recognition and the London College of Fashion running courses in Dubai, Alexandra Kohut–Cole says a new Vogue CafE and GQ bar will complete the lifestyle.

couture is a mushrooming market in the Middle East, with women from the region becoming the world’s biggest consumers of couture fashion. And all over the region they are not just buying fashion, they are rapidly creating it, too. Lebanese designs, Elie Saab being the most prominent designer, are already a fixture on the red carpet. With workshops in Milan and Paris, Saab gained global recognition when Halle Berry wore his dress to collect her Oscar in 2002. Saab suitably dubbed his intensely feminine and glamorous SS13 collection “Heiress.” The couture house of Georges Chakra, also from Lebanon, has shown at Paris since 2001, producing pure red carpet style and garnering a following by Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez while Zuhair Murad has haute couture and ready-towear boutiques in Beirut and Paris, with a showroom in Milan. Kristen Stewart is a fan of his designs. But the icing on Murad’s cake must have been at the 2011 wedding of HRH Prince William to Catherine, now Duchess of Cambridge when Princess Ameera Al-Taweel of Saudi Arabia wore a Murad design. What better fashion ambassador could there be than the eternally elegant and stylishly

Designer Reem Al Kanhal.

Design by Reem Al Kanhal.

original HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, wife of the Emir of Qatar? HH Sheikha Moza is the chairperson of Qatar Foundation and set up Qatar Luxury Group (QLG) in 2010 under the QF umbrella. With a stake in Le Tanneur & Cie, Tiffany and Valentino, rumor has it that QLG is soon set to unveil its own luxury fashion brand designed by none other than French couturier Stephane Rolland. Also in Qatar, Palestinian, Lama El-Moatassem of the hugely successful Toujouri label, based on The Pearl in Doha – in Peter Marino designed space, no less – is taking the brand one step further. El-Moatassem has designed a collaborative collection with Carmen Haid of luxury vintage online boutique AtelierMayer.com. Toujouri is certainly living up to its Arabic meaning of “treasure chest.” Bahrain-based designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa of Noon by Noor have created a label that is fast establishing itself, having shown in Paris and New York with Olivia Palermo, Nicky Hilton and Cory Kennedy all in the front row at their NY show SS13. So, is it tougher being in fashion and of Arab descent? Bahraini haute couturier Khaleda Rajab is based in Bahrain and showcases her designs in Harvey Nichols, Kuwait. Her client base is international but mostly Middle Eastern –– Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Oman. Her style is European and sexy. Rajab explains that the start was hard: “At the beginning of my career I didn’t get the Middle East attention, I never played it safe.” She stayed true to her design aspects and didn’t let what people thought get in the way. She says: “It made me want to be a role model for designers who doubt their designs due to the conservative culture. There are a lot of upcoming local designers that are bringing different styles and ideas to the market, and there is no holding back any more.” Rajab is launching her new ready-to-wear line ‘Hang It,’ this month in Europe and the Middle East. Over in Saudi Arabia, couturier Reem Al Kanhal of Reem Kanhal and the ready-to-wear line RK Designs (to be found in her Riyadh showroom and in Sauce Dubai, Dubai Mall) acknowledges that being born and raised in Saudi Arabia could have prevented her from being what she wanted to be but she managed to transcend her surroundings. Her designs sell all over the world, while her showroom is in Riyadh. She showcases her designs also in Jeddah and Dubai and soon will show in Qatar and Kuwait. Of the fashion scene in the Middle East she says: “It’s blossoming and Middle Eastern designers

are becoming strong and international.” Al Kanhal dedicates her work to Strong and independent women in the world, aware of their femininity and willing to express it in a sensual though elegant and simple way. The Middle East is certainly a regional magnet for luxury brands, with Condé Nast Publications Inc. giving a true stamp of approval by launching Style.com Arabia, in Arabic and English, in October 2012. Hot on the heels of leading digital fashion website Style.com, it is Condé Nast’s first fashion and beauty title to have a presence in the Middle East. And early this year a Vogue Café will launch in the 96,000 sq. ft luxury level Shoe District within Dubai Mall serving international cuisine (but no alcohol), created by Condé Nast Restaurants’ Chef, Gary Robinson. A GQ Bar, serving alcohol, will also open in Dubai within an international five-star hotel. Stuart Nielsen, Director of Condé Nast Restaurants elaborates: “Vogue Café Dubai is our first step into the Middle East market and, together with the GQ Bar, forms an integral part of Condé Nast International’s strategy”. Further answering the call to all things fashion, the renowned London College of Fashion is slaking the thirst for fashion knowledge in the region by opening a college in Dubai offering courses such as Styling, Design and Luxury Brand Management –– all are regularly fully booked. LCF Senior Business Manager, Linda Roberts says: “We felt there was a lack of opportunity for education on the business side of fashion, and with the UAE’s strong retail industry there are a lot of aspects of fashion management that go with that. We initially focused on this particular area because we felt it opportune and we recognised the entrepreneurial spirit of young people in the region.” Emirati students, British, Jordanian, Lebanese, Kuwaiti, Saudi Arabian, Indian and Qatari have all been lining up to attend. Bahrain-based fashion blogger Dana Al Khalifa of the overdressed.com says: “There’s been a huge rise in great talent over the past three years from designers and curators to artists. It is very exciting. The fashion scene in particular has boomed, the number of designers who produce and design to international fashion standards has also increased.” Al Khalifa continues: “Arabs are very proud of their culture; however Western clothing provides an element of reality and of convenience.” The future of fashion is clearly on a collision course that will happily result in a continuous and exciting melding of Arab and Western style. 61

‫تصميم ريم الكنهل‬

‫وبذلك تعبّر توجوري بالفعل عن معناها باللغة العربية‬ ‫وهو «صندوق الكنز»‪.‬‬ ‫أما المصممتان البحرينيتان الشيخة نور آل خليفة‪،‬‬ ‫والشيخة هيا آل خليفة‪ ،‬فقد صممتا العالمة التجارية‬ ‫‪ Noon by Noor‬التي بدأت تثبت وجودها بسرعة‬ ‫في باريس ونيويورك‪ ،‬حيث جلست في الصف األول‬ ‫في عرض أزيائها في نيويورك لربيع وصيف ‪2013‬‬ ‫أوليفيا باليرمو‪ ،‬ونيكي هيلتون‪ ،‬وكوري كينيدي‪.‬‬ ‫لكن هل من الصعب أن يعمل من هو من أصول‬ ‫عربية باألزياء؟ تتخذ مصممة األزياء الراقية‬ ‫البحرينية خالدة رجب البحرين مقرا لها وهي‬ ‫تعرض تصاميمها في هارفي نيكولز‪ ،‬والكويت‪.‬‬ ‫وقاعدة عمالئها دولية لكنها في الغالب في منطقة‬ ‫الشرق األوسط من الكويت‪ ،‬والبحرين‪ ،‬وقطر‪،‬‬ ‫والمملكة العربية السعودية‪ ،‬وسلطنة عمان‪ ،‬كما‬ ‫أن أسلوبها أوروبي ومثير‪ .‬وكشفت خالدة أن‬ ‫البداية كانت صعبة‪ ،‬مضيفة‪« :‬لم أحصل في بداية‬ ‫مسيرتي المهنية على اهتمام من الشرق األوسط»‪.‬‬ ‫لكنها بقيت وفية لجوانب تصميمها ولم تدع آراء‬ ‫الناس تعيق تقدمها‪ .‬واستطردت قائلة‪« :‬لقد جعلتني‬ ‫آراؤهم أرغب بأن أصبح نموذجا يحتذى من قبل‬ ‫المصممين الذين يشككون بتصاميمهم بسبب‬ ‫الثقافة المحافظة‪ .‬فهنالك الكثير من المصممين‬ ‫المحليين الصاعدين الذين يجلبون أنماطا وأفكارا‬ ‫مختلفة إلى السوق وال توجد اآلن أية وسيلة إليقاف‬ ‫ذلك»‪ .‬وقد أطلقت لمى هذا الشهر خطها الجديد‬ ‫للمالبس الجاهزة ‪ Hang It‬في أوروبا والشرق‬ ‫األوسط‪.‬‬ ‫وأما في المملكة العربية السعودية‪ ،‬فإن مصممة‬ ‫األزياء الراقية ريم الكنهل صاحبة العالمة التجارية‬ ‫«ريم كنهل» وخطها للمالبس الجاهزة ‪RK‬‬ ‫‪( Designs‬الموجود في صالتها في الرياض وفي‬ ‫دبي) فهي تقر بأن والدتها ونشأتها في المملكة‬ ‫العربية السعودية ربما تكون قد منعتها من أن‬ ‫تصبح ما أرادته لكنها تمكنت من تجاوز محيطها‪.‬‬ ‫فتصاميمها اآلن تباع في جميع أنحاء العالم‪ ،‬كما‬ ‫أنها تعرض تصاميمها في جدة ودبي وقريبا في‬ ‫قطر والكويت‪ .‬وتتحدث عن مشهد األزياء في‬ ‫الشرق األوسط قائلة‪« :‬يزدهر التصميم في الشرق‬ ‫األوسط كما أن المصممين من الشرق األوسط قد‬ ‫أصبحوا أقوياء ودوليين»‪ .‬وتهدي ريم عملها «إلى‬ ‫جميع النساء القويات والمستقالت في العالم‪ ،‬اللواتي‬ ‫يدركن أنوثتهن وهن على استعداد للتعبير عن ذلك‬ ‫بطريقة أنيقة على الرغم من بساطتها»‪.‬‬ ‫وال ريب أن الشرق األوسط يشكل نقطة جذب‬ ‫إقليمية للعالمات التجارية الفاخرة‪ .‬فقد أعطت‬ ‫شركة كوندي ناست للنشر في أكتوبر ‪2012‬‬

‫موافقتها على إطالق موقع ‪ Style.com‬أريبيا‪،‬‬ ‫باللغتين العربية واإلنجليزية‪ ،‬على غرار موقع األزياء‬ ‫الرائد الرقمي ‪ ،Style.com‬وهو أول موقع أزياء‬ ‫وتجميل لشركة كوندي ناست سيصبح له وجود‬ ‫في الشرق األوسط‪.‬‬ ‫وفي أوائل هذا العام سيتم إطالق مقهى فوج‬ ‫‪ Vogue Café‬بمساحة ‪ 96‬ألف قدم مربع في دبي‬ ‫مول حيث سيقدم المأكوالت العالمية من إبداع‬ ‫شيف كوندي ناست رستورانتس‪ ،‬غاري روبنسون‪،‬‬ ‫لكنه لن يقدم مشروبات كحولية‪ .‬وسيتم أيضا‬ ‫افتتاح بار جي كيو ‪ GQ‬الذي يقدم المشروبات‬ ‫الكحولية في دبي في أحد الفنادق العالمية من‬ ‫فئة الخمس نجوم‪ .‬ويتحدث ستيوارت نيلسن‪ ،‬مدير‬ ‫كوندي رستورانتس‪ ،‬عن ذلك قائال‪« :‬مقهى فوج‬ ‫دبي هو أول خطوة نخطوها في أسواق الشرق‬ ‫األوسط‪ ،‬حيث يشكل بار جي كيو جزءا ال يتجزأ‬ ‫من إستراتيجية كوندي ناست الدولية»‪.‬‬ ‫وتلبية الحتياجات المنطقة المتعطشة للمعرفة في‬ ‫مجال األزياء‪ ،‬افتتحت كلية لندن كوليدج لألزياء‬ ‫الشهيرة كلية في دبي تقدم دورات في التصميم‬ ‫وإدارة العالمات التجارية الفاخرة‪ ،‬وجميع دوراتها‬ ‫محجوزة بالكامل‪ .‬وعن ذلك‪ ،‬تحدثت كبيرة‬ ‫مديري األعمال في كلية لندن كوليدج لألزياء‪،‬‬ ‫ليندا روبرتس‪ ،‬قائلة‪« :‬لقد شعرنا أن هناك انعدام‬ ‫في الفرص التعليمية للجانب التجاري لألزياء‪ ،‬ومع‬ ‫قوة قطاع التجزئة في دولة اإلمارات فإنه يحتاج‬ ‫إلى الكثير من جوانب إدارة األزياء‪ .‬وقد ركزنا‬ ‫في البداية على هذا المجال بالذات ألننا شعرنا أن‬ ‫ذلك ضروري وأحسسنا بروح ريادة األعمال لدى‬ ‫الشباب في المنطقة»‪ .‬وتالقي الكلية إقباال كبيرا‬ ‫من الطالب اإلماراتيين‪ ،‬والبريطانيين‪ ،‬واألردنيين‪،‬‬ ‫واللبنانيين‪ ،‬والكويتيين‪ ،‬والسعوديين‪ ،‬والقطريين‪،‬‬ ‫والهنود‪.‬‬ ‫وتقول مدونة األزياء دانا آل خليفة التي تشرف على‬ ‫موقع ‪« :overdressed.com‬ازدادت المواهب زيادة‬ ‫هائلة على مدى السنوات الثالث الماضية ابتداء‬ ‫من المصممين‪ ،‬مرورا بالقيمين‪ ،‬وانتهاء بالفنانين‪،‬‬ ‫وهذا أمر مثير للغاية‪ .‬وقد ازدهر مشهد األزياء‬ ‫على وجه الخصوص‪ ،‬وازداد أيضا عدد المصممين‬ ‫الذين يقومون بتصميم وإنتاج األزياء وفقا للمعايير‬ ‫الدولية»‪.‬‬ ‫ومضت دانا قائلة‪« :‬رغم أن العرب فخورون جدا‬ ‫بثقافتهم‪ ،‬إال أنهم يرون أن المالبس الغربية تقدم‬ ‫عنصرا من عناصر الواقع والمالءمة»‪.‬‬ ‫ومن الواضح أن مستقبل األزياء سوف يشهد مزيدا‬ ‫من المزج المستمر والمثير بين األسلوبين العربي‬ ‫والغربي‪.‬‬

‫المصممة خالدة رجب‬

‫‪62‬‬

‫العيش‬

‫في الحلم‬

‫يتحول الشرق األوسط بسرعة إلى نقطة جذب‬ ‫إقليمي للعالمات التجارية الفاخرة‪ .‬ومع تزايد عدد‬ ‫المدونين في مجال األزياء‪ ،‬بدأ المصممون العرب‬ ‫بالحصول على اعتراف عالمي‪ ،‬حيث تقدم لندن‬ ‫كوليدج لألزياء دورات في دبي‪ ،‬وتقول ألكسندرا‬ ‫كوهوت كول «إنه سيتم افتتاح مقهى فوج ‪Vogue‬‬

‫‪ Café‬وبار جي كيو ‪ GQ‬جديدين سيكمالن نمط‬ ‫الحياة» ‪.‬‬

‫تنمو‬

‫مصممة األزياء‬ ‫ريم الكنهل‬ ‫‪63‬‬

‫سوق األزياء الراقية في الشرق األوسط نموا‬ ‫كبيرا مع تحول نساء المنطقة إلى أكبر‬ ‫مستهلكين في العالم لألزياء الراقية‪ .‬لكنهن‬ ‫ال يشترين األزياء فحسب وإنما يقمن أيضا‬ ‫بإبداعها في جميع أنحاء المنطقة‪.‬‬ ‫فتصاميم اللبناني إيلي صعب الذي يُعتبر من أبرز مصممي األزياء‬ ‫يرتديها المشاهير على السجادة الحمراء‪ .‬وينظم إيلي ورش عمل‬ ‫في ميالنو وباريس‪ ،‬وقد اكتسب اعترافا عالميا عندما ارتدت هالي‬ ‫بيري أحد فساتينه في حفل تسلمها لجائزة األوسكار عام ‪.2002‬‬ ‫وقد أطلق إيلي على مجموعته لربيع وصيف ‪ 2013‬التي تتسم باألنوثة‬ ‫الفائقة والسحر اسم «الوريثة» ‪.‬‬ ‫وتشتهر أيضا دار أزياء جورج شقرا‪ ،‬وهو أيضا من لبنان‪ ،‬في باريس‬ ‫منذ العام ‪ 2001‬بإبداعه ألزياء راقية خصيصا ألحداث السجادة الحمراء‬ ‫ارتدتها بيونسيه وجنيفر لوبيز‪ .‬وأما زهير مراد فهو أيضا يشتهر‬ ‫بأزيائه الراقية ولديه محالت للمالبس الجاهزة في بيروت وباريس‬ ‫ومعرض في ميالنو‪ .‬وتُعتبر كريستين ستيوارت من المعجبات‬ ‫بتصاميمه‪ .‬لكن في العام ‪ 2011‬وصلت شهرته لآلفاق في زفاف‬ ‫األمير وليام من كاثرين‪ ،‬دوقة كامبريدج‪ ،‬عندما ارتدت األميرة‬ ‫السعودية الطويل فستانا من تصميمه‪.‬‬ ‫لكن أية سفيرة لألزياء أفضل من حرم أمير دولة قطر سمو الشيخة‬ ‫موزا بنت ناصر التي تشتهر بأناقتها؟ والشيخة موزا هي رئيس‬ ‫مجلس إدارة مؤسسة قطر‪ ،‬وقد أسستْ مجموعة قطـر للرفاهية في‬ ‫العام ‪ 2010‬تحت مظلة مؤسسة قطر‪ .‬وتملك المجموعة حصصا في‬ ‫لو تانور آند سي‪ ،‬وتيفاني‪ ،‬وفالنتينو‪ ،‬ويقال إن المجموعة ستكشف‬ ‫قريبا النقاب عن عالمة تجارية خاصة بها لألزياء الفاخرة من تصميم‬ ‫المصمم الفرنسي الشهير ستيفان روالن‪.‬‬ ‫وفي قطر أيضا تدير الفلسطينية المقيمة في قطر‪ ،‬لمى المعتصم‪،‬‬ ‫منفذ العالمة التجارية الناجحة توجوري في مشروع اللؤلؤة في‬ ‫الدوحة الذي صممه بيتر مارينو‪ ،‬وقد ارتقت لمى بالعالمة التجارية‬ ‫بصورة كبيرة‪ ،‬حيث قامت بالتعاون مع كارمن هايد بتنفيذ منفذ‬ ‫الرفاهية الكالسيكي على اإلنترنت ‪. Atelier-Mayer.com‬‬

remix Qatar

Creative kin Manuella, Emmaneul and Jean-Paul Guiragossian

All in the family

Anima Gallery, the Pearl 64

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Familyâ&#x20AC;? showing at

(From Left)Paintings in perspective: Anatomy (oil in canvas), Before the race

t seems that from birth the Guiragossian siblings were destined to become artists. Their works may not be similar, but their father, Lebanese modernist painter Paul Guiragossian, gave them all their first lessons in creativity. They grew up watching a successful painter live and work. The art of Jean-Paul, Emmanuel and Manuella Guiragossian, as well as that of their deceased father, will be featured in one cohesive exhibition for the first time. The show takes place at the Anima Gallery, at The Pearl from January 12 to February 28. The heritage the Guiragossian siblings share brings them together. Their artistic lineage goes much beyond their father; they come from a long line of artists. According to Manuella, the artistic streak ranged from iconographers to musicians and painters. “Our mother Juliette is also an artist, painter and musician, which put us in a unique environment to grow up in, surrounded by colors and harmony,” she reminisces. In a world where competition and peer pressure run deep, it is surprising to see creativity being the link within a family of high-fliers. “In a way we have always been together, as we all grew up in our father’s studio and watched him paint. We learned from him and from each other. Even though each of us went

our separate ways, studied and settled in different countries, we often regroup in Lebanon and work together, exchanging views and interacting with each other,” she says. The Guiragossians grew up in Lebanon with two other siblings who are also involved in the art world, Sylva and Araxie. Jean-Paul, Emmanuel and Manuella were first approached about doing a show for the Anima Gallery while working together at an art fair. “We thought this would be a great opportunity to bring some of that positive energy we get when we’re all in the studio as a family out to the public,” Jean-Paul says. Talking about their father, Jean-Paul says: “Born in Jerusalem, our father, Paul Guiragossian, pursued art all his life and became an exceptionally well-known Lebanese painter. He died in 1993, and we later established the Paul Guiragossian Foundation, seeking to keep his legacy alive and share the lessons with his fans and collectors.” The foundation works to gather and preserve Paul’s paintings. Manuella says her father, who had “the kindest and most generous heart,” continues to be an inspiration to her family and others. Jean-Paul’s inspiration comes from where and how he lived during his childhood, in addition to the usual masters – Van Gogh, Francis Bacon and others. “The stories of how my grandparents lived in

the Armenian genocide, the Lebanese civil war that I grew up in… all the travels I did and (am) still doing in my life” influence his art, says Jean Paul, and his brother and sister agree. The experiences all add “beauty and dirt,” Jean-Paul says. Though their art will be shown together, each of the Guiragossian siblings brings different insights to the collection. Jean-Paul’s work depicts injustices. His paintings cover subjects from women and how they are subjected to violence to the eradication of forests and nature. Manuella’s canvases, however, embody a more personal idea – facing her fears. “I realized that I was becoming a person who could be less intimidated by things that I found unjust in life, and that I was now ready to do something about them if I needed to,” she says. “The two paintings I’m showing in this exhibition represent exactly that period of time in my life where I started adjusting myself to face all the fears and intimidations that life can bring to me,” she explains. Emmanuel’s work depicts the hardships humans must go through to survive. As a burgeoning artist he paints dramatic, dark scenes. He also cited the genocide and civil wars as a major influence, like Jean -Paul. Now a father, though, Emmanuel has begun to take the “more positive side of mankind” into account in his art. Art and the Middle East In countries faced with war or violence, art brings out the peaceful side of human nature, Manuella says. In the Middle East, when the economy or political situation creates conflict, the art scene can help calm apprehensive minds and even incite non-violent “fight(s) against injustice.” Since the siblings grew up with conflict around them, art’s influences in society have become important reasons for pursuing the trade. “A nation without art is a nation lost in materialistic things, and will remain backwards” Manuella says. In recent years the region’s support of artists has increased, she adds. Countries like Qatar and the UAE have been increasing the prevalence of art in communities by opening museums or presenting collections in public. “(The region’s) artists now are not only becoming well known, but also very sought after,” Manuella says. “That makes us very hopeful.” 65

‫جانب من أعمال اإلخوة‬ ‫غيراغوسيان التي عرضت‬ ‫في معرض غاليري أنيميا‬ ‫باللؤلؤة‬

‫أن كل واحد منا قد ذهب في الطريق الخاص به‬ ‫حيث درس كل منا واستقر في دولة مختلفة‪ ،‬إال‬ ‫أننا كثيرا ما نجتمع في لبنان ونعمل معا ونتبادل‬ ‫وجهات النظر ونتفاعل مع بعضنا البعض»‪.‬‬ ‫وقد نشأت عائلة غيراغوسيان في لبنان مع شقيقين‬ ‫آخرين يشاركونهم أيضا في عالم الفن وهما سيلفا‬ ‫وآركسي‪ .‬وقد تم في البداية االتصال مع جان بول‪،‬‬ ‫وإيمانويل‪ ،‬ومانويال للمشاركة في معرض أنيما‬ ‫غاليري أثناء العمل معا في معرض فني‪.‬‬ ‫وعن ذلك‪ ،‬يقول جان بول‪« :‬لقد رأينا أن ذلك‬ ‫سيشكل فرصة عظيمة كي نجلب للجمهور بعضا‬ ‫من تلك الطاقة اإليجابية التي نحصل عليها عندما‬ ‫نعمل ونكون في األستوديو كأسرة واحدة»‪.‬‬ ‫وتحدث جان بول عن والدهم قائال‪« :‬وُلد والدنا بول‬ ‫غيراغوسيان في القدس ومارس الرسم طوال حياته‬ ‫ليصبح رساما لبنانيا مشهورا بصورة استثنائية‪ .‬وقد‬ ‫توفي والدنا في العام ‪ ،1993‬ثم أسسنا في وقت‬ ‫الحق مؤسسة بول غيراغوسيان التي تسعى إلبقاء‬ ‫إرثه حيا وتبادل الدروس مع جمهوره وهواة جمع‬ ‫لوحاته»‪.‬‬ ‫وتعمل المؤسسة على جمع لوحات بول والمحافظة‬ ‫عليها‪ .‬وتقول مانويال‪« :‬إن والدها الذي كان يملك‬ ‫«أرحم وأجود قلب» ما يزال يشكل مصدر إلهام‬ ‫لعائلتها والكثير من الناس»‪.‬‬ ‫ويأتي إلهام جان بول من مكان وطريقة عيشه‬ ‫خالل طفولته‪ ،‬باإلضافة إلى أساطين الفن المعتادين‬

‫من فان جوخ‪ ،‬وفرنسيس بيكون وغيرهما‪.‬‬ ‫ويقول جان بول عن األمور التي تأثر بها في فنه‪:‬‬ ‫«لقد نشأنا ونحن نسمع قصص حول أجدادنا في‬ ‫فترة اإلبادة الجماعية لألرمن‪ ،‬والحرب األهلية‬ ‫اللبنانية‪ ،‬كما أنني قد تأثرت بجميع أسفاري التي‬ ‫قمت بها ومازلت»‪ ،‬ووافقه شقيقه وشقيقته على‬ ‫ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫واستطرد جان بول قائال‪« :‬إن كل هذه التجارب قد‬ ‫أضافت «الجمال والقبح» إلى أعماله»‪.‬‬ ‫ورغم أنه سيتم عرض لوحاتهم معا‪ ،‬إال أن لدى‬ ‫كال من اإلخوة غيراغوسيان رؤية مختلفة‬ ‫للمجموعة‪ .‬فأعمال جان بول تصور مظاهر المعاناة‬ ‫حيث تغطي لوحاته مواضيع مختلفة ابتداء من‬ ‫تعرض النساء للعنف وانتهاء بالقضاء على الغابات‬ ‫والطبيعة‪ .‬في حين أن لوحات مانويال تجسد فكرة‬ ‫أكثر شخصية هي مخاوفها إذ تقول‪« :‬لقد‬ ‫أدركتُ أنني قد أصبحت شخصا يمكن أن يشعر‬ ‫بخوف أقل من األشياء التي أجدها غير عادلة في‬ ‫الحياة‪ ،‬وأنني أصبحت اآلن مستعدة للقيام بأي شيء‬ ‫ما حيالها إذا كنتُ بحاجة إلى ذلك»‪.‬‬ ‫وأردفتْ قائلة‪« :‬تمثل لوحتاي المعروضتان في هذا‬ ‫المعرض تلك الفترة بالذات من حياتي التي بدأتُ‬ ‫فيها بتعويد نفسي على مواجهة كل المخاوف التي‬ ‫يمكن أن تحملها لي الحياة في جعبتها»‪.‬‬ ‫وأما أعمال إيمانويل فتصور معاناة البشر في‬ ‫سبيل البقاء على قيد الحياة من خالل رسم مشاهد‬

‫حالكة الظالم ومثيرة‪ .‬ويرى إيمانويل أيضا‪ ،‬مثل‬ ‫جان بول‪ ،‬أن لإلبادة الجماعية والحروب األهلية‬ ‫تأثيرا كبيرا‪ .‬لكنه بعد أن أصبح أبا بدأ ينظر في‬ ‫فنه إلى «الجانب األكثر إيجابية من البشرية»‪.‬‬ ‫الفن والشرق األوسط‬ ‫تقول مانويال‪« :‬إنه يمكن للفن أن يبرز الجانب‬ ‫السلمي للطبيعة البشرية في الدول التي تعاني من‬ ‫الحرب أو العنف‪ .‬ففي الشرق األوسط‪ ،‬عندما‬ ‫يتسبب الوضع االقتصادي أو السياسي بالصراع فإنه‬ ‫يمكن للمشهد الفني أن يساعد على تهدئة النفوس‬ ‫القلقة‪ ،‬وحتى إنه قد يلهم «الكفاح ضد الظلم» بال‬ ‫عنف‪ .‬ولما كان اإلخوة قد ترعرعوا في جو مليء‬ ‫بالصراعات من حولهم‪ ،‬فإن تأثير الفن على المجتمع‬ ‫هو من األسباب الهامة التي جعلتهم يخوضون غمار‬ ‫الفن‪.‬‬ ‫ومضت قائلة‪« :‬إن األمة بال فن هي أمة ضائعة في‬ ‫األمور المادية وستبقى متخلفة»‪.‬‬ ‫وتضيف أنه في السنوات األخيرة ازداد دعم‬ ‫المنطقة للفنانين‪ ،‬حيث زادت بعض الدول مثل‬ ‫قطر‪ ،‬واإلمارات العربية المتحدة من انتشار الفن‬ ‫في المجتمعات من خالل فتح المتاحف أو عرض‬ ‫المجموعات الفنية في األماكن العامة‪.‬‬ ‫وختمت حديثها قائلة‪« :‬بذلك لم يصبح فنانو‬ ‫المنطقة مشهورين فحسب‪ ،‬وإنما ازداد أيضا الطلب‬ ‫عليهم وهذا ما يجعلنا متفائلين للغاية»‪.‬‬ ‫‪66‬‬

‫اإلخوة جان بول‪،‬‬ ‫وإيمانويل‪ ،‬ومانويال‬ ‫غيراغوسيان‬

‫كـــل شــــيء‬ ‫فـــي العائلــة‬

‫العائلة تعرض إبداعاتها‬

‫في غاليري أنيما باللؤلؤة‬

‫‪67‬‬

‫يبدو‬

‫أنه كان مقدرا لإلخوة غيراغوسيان منذ والدتهم‬ ‫أن يصبحوا فنانين‪ .‬فقد ال تكون أعمالهم متماثلة‪،‬‬ ‫لكن والدهما‪ ،‬اللبناني الرسام الحداثي بول‬ ‫غيراغوسيان‪ ،‬قدم لهم الدروس األولى في اإلبداع‪،‬‬ ‫فترعرعوا وهم يشاهدون رساما ناجحا وهو يكد ويعمل‪.‬‬ ‫وقد عرضت أعمال جان بول‪ ،‬وإيمانويل‪ ،‬ومانويال غيراغوسيان‪ ،‬فضال عن‬ ‫أعمال والدهم المتوفي‪ ،‬للمرة األولى في معرض في غاليري أنيما في اللؤلؤة‬ ‫من ‪ 12‬يناير حتى ‪ 28‬فبراير‪.‬‬ ‫والتراث الذي يشترك فيه اإلخوة غيراغوسيان هو ما يجمع فيما بينهم‪ .‬فنسبهم‬ ‫الفني يذهب إلى أبعد بكثير من والدهم‪ ،‬فهو يأتي من سلسلة طويلة من‬ ‫الفنانين‪.‬‬ ‫وحسب مانويال فإن العائلة تضم العديد من الرسامين والموسيقيين إذ تقول‪:‬‬ ‫«والدتنا جولييت هي أيضا فنانة‪ ،‬ورسامة‪ ،‬وموسيقية‪ ،‬وقد وضعتنا والدتنا في‬ ‫بيئة فريدة من نوعها لنكبر ونحن محاطون باأللوان والتناغم»‪.‬‬ ‫ورغم أن هذا العالم يتسم بالمنافسة الشديدة وضغط األقران‪ ،‬إال أنه من النادر‬ ‫أن نرى اإلبداع وهو يجمع بين أفراد عائلة واحدة‪.‬‬ ‫ومضت قائلة‪ « :‬كنا دائما معا بطريقة ما وقد نشأنا جميعنا في استوديو والدنا‬ ‫وكنا نراقبه وهو يرسم‪ .‬وقد تعلمنا منه‪ ،‬ومن بعضنا البعض‪ .‬وعلى الرغم من‬

talk Qatar

is it all about the location?

if it is, then IDAM, THE NEW RESTAURANT LOCATED AT THE mUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART, DOHA, WINS. BUT THAT IS JUST PART OF ITS UNIQENESS SAYS debrina aliyah

ith more than a dozen restaurants and an even longer list of accolades to his name, chef Alain Ducasse is wellrevered and respected in the circle of fine dining. The man himself needs no introduction, but his latest venture in an unlikely venue definitely piques our interest. IDAM, the name of his new restaurant, finds its home in the architecturally stunning Museum of Islamic Arts, Qatar. Underlying this unique choice of location is a profound effort by the chef to marry the flavors of Arabic with the French Mediterranean, just as IDAM nestles within the rich collection of Islamic arts in the museum. The restaurant will work with local and regional influences and to source most, if not all, of its ingredients locally. In a city that is fast becoming the next fine dining hotspot, with Michelin-rated chef restaurants mushrooming every other month, we catch up with chef Ducasse and find out his inspirations and visions for IDAM Qatar.

What were your first impressions of Doha? Dynamism. I felt it from the first minutes of my arrival in Doha and then throughout all the meetings I had with the executives in charge of the museum. What are your thoughts on the cuisine of this region? It is interesting because it mixes the local products and traditional recipes with some more contemporary influences – Asia, nearby Arabic regions and now Europe. Why did you choose to open here in Qatar? What will the concept be? Besides the overall dynamism of the country, what really attracted

me were the ambition and the quality of the Museum of Islamic Art project. It embodies what I’m keen on: altogether deeply rooted in a brilliant, ancient culture and at the same time definitely in tune with the epoch. What is it like developing a restaurant in this region? You’ve had presence in many other countries, how is it different this time? In fact, when you approach a project with the necessary respect for the local culture as I do, each and every project, everywhere in the world, is specific. What do you hope to convey culinary wise to this new audience here? The pride of their culinary legacy. I use the classical French culinary techniques to exhilarate the tastes of the local products with an Arabic twist. What other projects are you currently working on? There is only one goal: provide people with a dining experience which fits their today’s and tomorrow’s expectations. This requires inventing every day in order to make the moments my customers spend in the restaurants an unforgettable moment of happiness. What is your style factor? What do you really think of the dish-dash (the traditional thobe)? I appreciate nice fabrics such as tweed or linen. Thobes, as any traditional clothes, express individuals’ bond with their local culture. IDAM is open only for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday and is located on the top floor of the Museum of Islamic Art. The restaurant seats 60 guests and executive chef Romaine Meder runs the kitchen.

talk Qatar

RamsAy-Style at the St Regis

GORDON RAMSAY WAS IN TOWN RECENTLY, but it was the cool and collected chef and not the television PERSONALITY who turned up. By rory coen

ack in the early nineties, when my sister was a freshman in college, she got a part-time job working in a kitchen in a hotel that was somewhere between Fawlty Towers and the Palace Hotel on the island of Els Bels. Her responsibilities were modest insofar as she cut vegetables and tried to keep the work areas clear. I was but a pup at the time, but I can still remember the tears and her blind refusal after each shift to ever return to a job she despised, yet return she did. She was an

honest worker, but even at that low level, the temperature was too high for her weak soul. Gordon Ramsay opened up two new restaurants – Gordon Ramsay Doha and Opal by Gordon Ramsay Doha – at the St Regis Doha last year and his mantra, which would probably give my sister chronic nightmares, is deceptively simple: “attention to detail”. You don’t get three Michelins stars by compromising on detail and it’s the sum of all this attention that adds the value he boasts about. Ramsay has this infamous reputation for being a tyrant in the kitchen, of course, but as much as he tries to play it down – he claims Ramsay the Chef and Ramsay the television personality are dichotomous – it’s hard to

believe he reached these professional heights by molly-coddling his staff. In some small way, when a dish goes wrong, the poor cleaner is probably in some way responsible. Perfection is always on a knife-edge. “There has to be an energy in the kitchen, which needs to be ramped up to get the level of perfection required,” says Ramsay. “Individuals who cook motionless won’t achieve anything in the kitchen. If you’re going to cook and be obsessed with ingredients, then you have to cook from the heart.” Absorbing Ramsay’s passion for his profession, you quickly realize that top-class kitchens must be brutal places to work in, and without an abundance of character and spirit, you’re a sitting duck. Ramsay didn't fall out of the pantry and invent this voracious personality overnight – he’s merely a link in a chain of eccentric chefs probably dating back to the fourth Earl of Sandwich. “When I worked for Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy, I got my ass kicked,” he says. Having interviewed Savoy recently, I was a little surprised to hear the affable Frenchman apparently slandered in such a manner. “Savoy is a granddad; he’s a pussy-cat,” counters Ramsay with a dash of sarcasm, when I call him up on Savoy being anything but a genteel chef. “Ducasse and Savoy are amazing chefs and I am glad they were as tough on me as they were because they made me what I am today. I didn't get into this business to flip burgers and put dressings on Caesar salads. You ask [Savoy] truthfully if he gets upset if anything goes wrong in his kitchen, and what do you think he’s going to say?” But a quick parting shot, Ramsay-style followed; I knew he didn’t want to leave Savoy in such an exalted place: “[Savoy] gave me the biggest telling-off of my career on the back of winning my third Michelin star before him, having been trained by him.” All is fair in love, war and the restaurant business, as they say.

Fierce competition Doha is going through a period of culinary enlightenment at the moment. If it missed out on the 2020 Summer Olympic Games, the Qatar Olympic Committee could do worse than stage the culinary equivalent here. The personalities and the restaurants are already in place. Ramsay is the latest three-star Michelin chef to open up an office here and if that wasn't enough, he trained under some of the others. He claims his in-house head chef at the St. Regis, Michelin-starred Gilles Bosquet, will also reach the top of the profession some day. Sorcerers and apprentices, mentors and protégés – the competition is fierce. “Every chef worth his grain will be here in the next two years. Doha is in the Premier League now and to compete here you need to strive for high standards. I think competition is healthy. People ask me about Ducasse and Savoy, but I say the more the merrier. They have a bit more experience than me, but I’m ready for the challenge. Cooking is going through this exciting resurge at the moment; it’s a very powerful career to have – to cook and to excite customers. The timing of all this is great.” Intimacy “Intimacy” and “Ramsay” are two words I never thought I’d see in the same sentence, but Gordon Ramsay Doha is essentially “a five-star avant-garde dining experience in an intimate setting inspired by the features of a classical English manor” – plenty of off-whites and grays to keep your attention focused on your immediate company. There are nine tables – which will seat between 30 and 40 guests per night. It’s a replica of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay on the Royal Hospital Road in London. To give the setting its dues, its look and feel are indeed unique and cosy; it’s rather like walking into your grandmother’s sitting room. “The place is fitted out beautifully,” says Ramsay. “We have some kinks to iron out,

obviously, but I always say it takes a year for any new restaurant to settle down. The owners know that this level of food can’t be done with four hundred guests per week. It’s a special treat really. Maybe something you shouldn't be indulging in once or twice a week – once every two weeks instead." Ramsay was in Doha in January to give guests one of these special treats. He announced himself on ceremony with the set menu – which was QR1,200 ($330) a plate. “We'll start with European lobster and pear salad,” he says. “Main course will be a roasted spiced lamb loin with winter vegetables, and dessert: a soft meringue of vanilla mascarpone with assorted fresh berries and a blueberry sorbet.” You get a sense of what he means by “attention to detail”throughout the meal. As I was tucking into the lobster, our waiter – who was definitely well-reared – asked at what temperature I would like my lamb. "Chef Ramsay recommends rose,” he advised, witnessing my blank expression. I didn’t know what rose meant, but I didn’t feel it prudent to disagree with Ramsay, especially if he was the one finishing off my plate. I saw enough of him on television. Sometimes, even journalists should know their place and keep quiet. A man not endowed with a sweet tooth, I was wondering if I’d get anything pleasurable from the dessert menu. The blueberry sorbet caught my eye at the tail-end of the offering, however, and it certainly didn't disappoint. Let me put this into perspective for you: if you think of two confectioneries you absolutely love – blueberries and vanilla ice-cream for me as it turns out – that work off each other to produce something that's greater than the sum of their parts, then you can somehow gain an inkling into what I experienced. I wanted to go into Ramsay to ask for more, but I saw enough of Oliver over the Christmas holiday to realize that was a bad idea. 71

talk Qatar

“Music is our common heritage”

Han-Na Chang, the new Music Director at the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra, believes in the unifying nature of music. By Nidhi Zakaria Eipe

an-Na Chang only wanted to meet Mstislav Rostropovich, considered by many to be the greatest cellist of the 20th century, even one of the greatest cellists of all time. But when she competed in the Fifth Rostropovich International Cello Competition, not only did she get to meet and play for Rostropovich she also came away with First for Contemporary Music Prize and the opportunity to study privately under the maestro himself.

That was in 1994, when Chang was only 11. Chang has since won accolades, admiration and recognition for her prodigious talent from all corners of the world. In September 2013, she will add one more feather to her cap when she takes up her newest position, that of Music Director at the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra. Born in South Korea in 1982, Chang says: Music has been a part of her life for as long as she can remember. When she started school at the age of six, her parents gifted her a cello. Chang would gradually fall in love with music, “wanting to become a better musician, to make better sound.” Four years later, her parents decided to move to New York so that Chang

could continue her musical studies at the prestigious Juilliard School of Music. During this time she also attended master classes and studied privately with acclaimed cellist Mischa Maisky. Chang reserves her warmest praise for her mentor and teacher, Maisky. “He is my most important teacher –– he is the first one who recognized my talent when I was 10 and opened my eyes to what music is all about,” she smiles. For 20 years, Chang pursued a formidable career as a cellist, debuting in major orchestras around the world including the Berliner Philharmoniker, the Cleveland Orchestra, the London Symphony Orchestra, the New York Philharmonic, the Orchestre de Paris, La Scala Orchestra and the San Francisco Symphony among others. In 2007 - incidentally the same year that the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra was born – Chang began to focus more on conducting. This decision stemmed primarily from her wish to study and perform the great masterpieces written for the orchestra: the foundational works of classical music. Living between worlds –growing up in a South Korean family, studying in America and spending much of her time on the road giving concerts in different countries – Chang soon realized that being a musician can often be a solitary affair. “As a solo cellist, you practise alone and you perform alone. It’s a lonely job,” she admits. It is perhaps for this reason that she views the orchestra as a “musical family” with whom one works continually to achieve long-term musical goals as well as contribute to the community. Chang’s own contributions to her community are many. In 2009 she founded the “Absolute Classic Festival” in Korea to promote classical music among newer audiences, while also offering young musicians in their 20s and 30s the chance to audition for a place in the Absolute Classic Festival Orchestra, personally conducted by her. She holds a special place in her heart for children, often performing concerts for children in her home country of South Korea, as well as for underprivileged children who would not otherwise have the chance to attend such concerts. For her efforts, she was appointed as a Roving Goodwill Ambassador for the Korean Red Cross. “I think the younger generation should be given the opportunity to become friends with the diverse sounds of classical music. Young kids are especially open-minded and they absorb things so quickly,” she says. In her role as Music Director for Qatar Philharmonic, Chang is especially enthusiastic about

“People have easy access to each other’s culture now, thanks to the Internet. It makes it possible for us to laugh and cry together, to be moved by the same things”

introducing, sharing and teaching classical music to young audiences in Qatar and the region. There is more But it’s not all music for Han-Na Chang, even if it does occupy the most important place in her life. One littleknown fact is that Chang has a degree in philosophy from Harvard University. She attributes the inspiration for this unorthodox subject choice largely to one of her most important mentors, Italian conductor Giuseppe Sinopoli. “He was always studying diverse academic fields like archaeology and psychology –– things that are related to human civilization and human thought,” she recalls. (Sinopoli himself had a degree in medicine and had also completed a dissertation in criminal anthropology). He instilled in Chang the motto: “Music is the most important thing in a musician’s life, but it should never be the only thing.” Chang took these words to heart and Sinopoli’s sudden passing just a few months before she started university cemented her decision to study Philosophy, as a silent homage to the influence he had on her life. Chang is deeply passionate about music and its power to bring people together. “The harmony and unity that the orchestra achieves is nothing short of a miracle –– take the music away and I think we will find out how difficult it actually is to have 100 individuals sharing the same vision together,” she says. She speaks of music as a shared sound that breaks through the barriers of difference to speak directly to our hearts. Music is our common heritage, she affirms, belonging to all of humanity, and an orchestra is like a “living instrument” that allows people to participate in the transcendent moment of its creation. So, just what do classical musicians think of the popular music coming out of their countries today? Chang is nothing but generous on the subject of the viral K-pop craze of 2012, “Gangnam Style,” reflecting both on its popularity and reach. “Pop music or classical music, people have easy access to each other’s culture now, thanks to the Internet. It makes it possible for us to laugh and cry together, to be moved by the same things,” she says. “I hope that we, classical musicians, will also be able to share the joys of music with the many diverse people around the world.” One suspects that the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra will be an excellent place to start. 73

Innerscape on the move

Human touch on nature

Man-made installations jump out from the serene greens of the Singapore Botanic Gardens, playing on the perception of scale and reality. TQatar finds out what inspired the artist Zadok Ben-David.

nyone who has visited Singapore Botanic Gardens will have focused on its beauty – the acres of land cloaked in green, an absolute delight to the senses. Visit it in January 2013, and you will find man-made designs standing tall on the Gardens, creating a theme of the real versus the illusory. Proud statement pieces defying our penchant for the “real” foliage. The artist behind this is Zadok BenDavid, and presenting this visceral viewing is Sotheby’s, in its first selling exhibition of outdoor sculpture in Asia. Seventeen works by

the internationally-renowned artist shown in the exotic setting of Singapore Botanic Gardens from October 23 2012 to January 31, 2013. His sculptures for Singapore – figures, plants and butterflies – take nature as their inspiration and play with perceptions of scale and reality, echoing themes from many of Ben-David’s most powerful sculpture series. Twelve of the works have been created specifically for the show, and the location of each sculpture has been carefully selected to reflect and enhance the beauty of the Gardens. The exhibition, is open to the public free of charge, is taking place with the support of the Singapore Tourism Board and the National Parks Board. In an exclusive interview with Sotheby’s Senior International Specialist in Impressionist and Modern Art, Alexander Platon, Ben-David

The artist Zadok Ben-David explores humanity's relation with nature

Sunny Moon

explains the significance the Botanic Gardens has for him. “My first impression of the Garden was in the 90s, when I visited Singapore for the first time. It’s a magnificent place – almost like entering a museum of the 19th century, but very much living rather than a piece of history,” says BenDavid. On his work of art and with his work on nature, he says, “Illusion is quite important to me. Since I was a child like every boy I wanted to fly, and I think that in time this became something a bit more down to earth – trying to make paintings fly, trying to make objects fly. It is the magical element of illusion which is very appealing to me – it’s not the main subject of the work but the way to carry out an idea.” The importance of nature in his work has never been as striking as it is now, in the Gardens. He says, “My main inspiration comes from nature. I use nature metaphorically to speak about humanity, about human attitudes. One idea leads to another – I started working with animals as metaphors for aspects of the human, – then later I moved on to sculptures of trees and plants, which incorporate figures inside them, inside nature.” Explaining his work to Platon, he says, “For the Singapore show, I singled out a few flowers from my installation Blackfield – some 20,000 miniatures of little plants in a field – and enlarged them. I think once I enlarge them and see them as individual pieces they ask for a very different reading and approach. They are far bigger than their actual size and therefore they’ve been given a kind of different significance, a significance that humanizes them in a way. I am also showing butterflies – composed of little human figures – for the first time in the Singapore show. I also have some

trees which contain figures in them and vice versa, figures with elements of trees. I think that in a way all of them belong to the same subject matter – humanity’s relationship to nature and also its relation to itself.” So do they blend together or does one take away the beauty of the other? Ben-David is almost offended by the question. He says, “As an artist I am not trying to imitate or copy nature; there is no point in doing so and it is doomed to failure. “The nature in my work appears as metaphors for human attitudes and behaviors, life and death, I am also trying to touch some psychological aspects in our perception of beauty and repulsion, as it appears in my latest works, featuring butterflies, humans and insects. I am not trying to compete with the beauty of nature, the works have their own beauty.” But nature has been the focus for the artist for a while. “The subject of nature has been a central theme in my works for more than 30 years. I am happy to see more artist nowadays dealing with this subject now.” Material makeover Platon talks about the material used by BenDavid, as a metal that seems to come alive with nature. Ben-David explains, “The material I use for the sculptures is called corten steel – a metal with a long-term durability which develops a very thin layer of rust a few days after the piece is exposed outdoors. This thin layer of rust starts as an orange color and get darker and darker over time and self-protects from further rust. I like the sculpture to be alive and not just to stay as an object in nature. Since we have seasons

affecting and changing our environment I like my sculpture also to change color.” But having said that Ben-David is rarely inspired by any material, which he sees just as a tool that is chosen to carry out his ideas in the best way. Having an installation on any open space is a challenge, he says. “Installing monumental artworks outdoors requires taking in account a few factors: firstly safety precautions, weather and durability. Other factors are choosing the perfect site without any interruptions the background. In Singapore we also installed a few pieces in a pond; this requires an optimal level of the water covering the surface of the sculpture bases. It might be a problem when it stops raining.” Favorite pieces “I cannot say that I have one particular piece that is my favorite. My favorite pieces are changing as I grow older and my works develops over the years. As a child I loved Van Gogh’s painting; when I started making sculpture it was David Smith’s artworks among others. Later on when I worked on large installations, I loved the Richard Wilson oil installation “20/50”, James Turrel’s works and Olafur Eliasson’s weather projects,” he says. “Setting up an open-air commercial show of museum scale, like the one in Singapore was very challenging, from the curatorial point of choosing artworks and the site, to marketing it to Asia and to the rest of the world. I think emerging artist should be concentrating more in developing their own artworks, showing them in various venues, not only a gallery. Popularity should not be the main ambition; good original artworks will do the job for a long run.” 75

A glimpse of the East

THE NEW ISLAMIC ART GALLERY – le LOUVRE, PARIS. By Lucia Guarano

P hoto C redit: T he A rt A rchive / M us é e du L ouvre Paris / G ianni D agli O rti

S Prestine past serene interiors of The Islamic Art Gallery at the Louvre, Paris

tepping inside the Louvre's new Islamic Art gallery is not only a chance to improve your knowledge of one of the oldest religions in the world, it is the beginning of a journey spanning from the 7th to the 19th centuries, from Europe to India. With an estimated budget of QR475 million ($130 million), the department oversees 3,000 precious works, undisputed masterpieces from Spain, Egypt, the Moghul Empire in India, Persia and Central Asia, all on display under a giant undulating gold-colored aluminum canopy designed by Italian architect Mario Bellini. It is also a bid to bridge a cultural divide and aimed at representing “Islam with a capital I,” as Sophie Makariou, Head of the Louvre’s Islamic Art department affirmed at a press preview ahead of the opening in September 2012. “Louvre’s gallery holds a grand and important collection,” said Maria Vittoria Fontana, Islamic Art Professor at La Sapienza University in Rome, “One built through purchases and donations of immense value that respond to the widest aesthetic taste, offering a representative vision and moreover a chance for the public to come closer to Islamic art.” The new wing groups the museum’s own collections, consisting of some 15,000 pieces, as well as over 3,000 works on permanent loan from the Musee des Arts Deco ratifs. The ambitious project was first launched in 2001 by Henri Loyrette, the Louvre’s president and director, who believed that the museum’s collections of Islamic art deserved a space, considering its significance. Two years later, in response to a decision announced by former French President Jacques Chirac, an eighth department dedicated to Islamic art was created at the Louvre. “The collection covers an incredibly wide chronological arch of time, overseeing all epochs from the 7th century until today,” Professor Fontana explained , “Ceramics, carpets, metals and also manuscripts and fabrics, all well preserved and restored to the art that can be appreciated by the public.” Among its exceptional holdings, the gallery displays the “Baptistery of Saint Louis,” one of the objects that has been most reproduced and

discussed. Made during the reign of the Sultan al-Nasir ibn Qalawun (1309-41), the Baptistery is one of the very rare Mamluk basins offering such a rich figurative program. “Then there is the Pyxis of al-Mughira,” the round ivory casket of Prince al-Mughira, lastborn to the Caliph of Cordoba Abd al-Rahman III, that was carved at the Umayyad court in Spain an anonymous masterpiece consisting of an extremely rare and expensive material, where the series of images that unfold on the object add to its rarity. Particularly remarkable is the fact that the falcon, a symbol of the Umayyads of al-Andalus, appears no less than seventeen times. Even more interesting is the “Bottle with a coat of arms,” over 50 centimeters tall, and said to be produced with one of the most spectacular techniques developed in the Islamic world. The department is housed under Bellini’s giant undulating canopy pierced with tiny holes that let daylight filter in, constantly changing the atmosphere with the sun’s rays passing through the over 2,000 netted triangles fitted together. In the words of its designer, Mario Bellini, it can be considered as a flying carpet, a huge tent, a luminous veil or simply golden clouds. Following the announcement of the new galleries in July 2005, a massive project began to take shape, including scientific documentation, research and restoration. The main objective was to ensure that the Louvre’s Islamic art collections, unmatched by those of any other museums in the world, would be given the most coherent possible composition and preserved for future generations. And in fact all of the works in the new department have been inventoried, whether originally held at the Louvre or on permanent loan from the Musee des Arts Deco ratifs; each piece has been photographed, measured, weighed and analysed from a conservation standpoint. The overall work plan, unprecedented in its scale involved verifying and integrating documentation for some 18,000 objects and involved the collaboration of numerous consultants and other professionals from outside the Louvre, from restorers to researchers and photographers, working alongside the curatorial staff of the museum’s Department of Islamic Art: a challenge for the Louvre Museum in redefining itself, once again, with the strongest appeal for lovers of Islamic art in Europe and the Western world.

‫كما قالت صوفي ماكاريو‪ ،‬رئيس قسم الفن‬ ‫اإلسالمي في متحف اللوفر في المؤتمر الصحفي‬ ‫الذي عقد قبيل افتتاحه في سبتمبر الماضي ‪2012.‬‬ ‫وتقول األستاذة الدكتورة ماريا فيتوريا فونتانا‪،‬‬ ‫أستاذ الفن اإلسالمي بجامعة «ال سابينزا» في‬ ‫روما‪« :‬يضم معرض اللوفر مجموعة كبيرة ومهمة‬ ‫تشكلت من خالل مشتريات وهبات ذات قيمة‬ ‫هائلة تستجيب لألذواق الجمالية‪ ،‬وهو يوفر الفرصة‬ ‫لتقريب الجمهور من الفن اإلسالمي»‪.‬‬ ‫ويضم الجناح الجديد مجموعات المتحف التي‬ ‫تتألف من حوالي ‪ 15‬ألف قطعة‪ ،‬فضال عن أكثر‬ ‫من ‪ 3000‬قطعة مستعارة بصورة دائمة من متحف‬ ‫الفنون‪ .‬وقد ُأطلق هذا المشروع الطموح في العام‬ ‫‪ 2001‬من قبل هنري ويريت‪ ،‬رئيس ومدير متحف‬ ‫اللوفر‪ ،‬الذي يعتقد أن مجموعات المتحف من الفن‬

‫اإلسالمي ذات أهمية كبيرة‪ .‬وبعد عامين‪ ،‬تم إنشاء‬ ‫ثامن قسم مخصص للفنون اإلسالمية في متحف‬ ‫اللوفر تنفيذا للقرار الذي أعلنه الرئيس الفرنسي‬ ‫السابق‪ ،‬جاك شيراك‪.‬‬ ‫وتقول األستاذة فونتانا‪« :‬تغطى المجموعة‬ ‫فترة زمنية واسعة بشكل ال يصدق تمتد على‬ ‫جميع العهود من القرن السابع حتى اليوم‪ .‬وتضم‬ ‫المجموعة السيراميك والسجاد والمعادن واألقمشة‬ ‫والمخطوطات المحفوظة بشكل جيد والمرممة‬ ‫بطريقة متقنة لتكون من خاللها موضع تقدير‬ ‫الجمهور»‪.‬‬ ‫ومن بين المقتنيات االستثنائية للمعرض حوض‬ ‫«معمودية سانت لويس» الشهير الذي يعود تاريخه‬ ‫إلى عهد السلطان الناصر بن قالوون (‪،)1341-1309‬‬ ‫وهو أحد أحواض المعمودية المملوكية النادرة‬ ‫للغاية‪.‬‬ ‫وهنالك أيضا علبة جواهر األميرة المغيرة‪ ،‬وهي‬ ‫علبة مدورة من العاج تعود ملكيتها لألميرة‬ ‫المغيرة‪ ،‬آخر بنات خليفة قرطبة عبد الرحمن‬ ‫الثالث‪ .‬وقد تم نقش العلبة في البالط األموي في‬ ‫أسبانيا‪ ،‬وهي تحفة فنية مصنوعة من مادة نادرة‬ ‫للغاية وباهظة التكلفة تضم سلسلة من الصور‬ ‫الفريدة‪ .‬ومما يميز العلبة أن الصقر‪ ،‬وهو رمز‬ ‫األمويين في األندلس‪ ،‬قد نقش على العلبة ما ال يقل‬ ‫عن سبع عشرة مرة‪ .‬ومما يثير االهتمام أيضا نقش‬ ‫يمثل رمز المُلك‪ ،‬يزيد طوله عن ‪ 50‬سم‪ ،‬تم نقشه‬ ‫باستخدام إحدى أكثر التقنيات تقدما في العالم‬ ‫اإلسالمي‪.‬‬ ‫ويقع المعرض تحت مظلة عمالقة من األلمنيوم‬ ‫المتموج ذي اللون الذهبي تتخللها فتحات صغيرة‬ ‫تسمح بدخول ضوء النهار‪ ،‬مما يغير باستمرار الجو‬ ‫تحت المظلة مع دخول أشعة الشمس التي تمر عبر‬ ‫أكثر من ألفي مثلث مركبة بصورة متشابكة‪.‬‬ ‫وتحدث المهندس المعماري ماريو بيليني عن‬ ‫تصميمه قائال‪« :‬يمكن اعتبار المظلة كبساط‬

‫الريح‪ ،‬أو خيمة ضخمة‪ ،‬أو حجاب مضيء‪ ،‬أو سحابة‬ ‫ذهبية بكل بساطة»‪.‬‬ ‫ومنذ اإلعالن عن المعرض الجديد في يوليو‬ ‫‪ ،2005‬بدأ إنجاز هذا المشروع الضخم‪ ،‬حيث‬ ‫تم إعداد الوثائق العلمية‪ ،‬وأجريت البحوث‪ ،‬وتم‬ ‫ترميم القطع األثرية‪ .‬وكان الهدف الرئيسي هو‬ ‫عرض مجموعات متحف اللوفر للفن اإلسالمي‬ ‫التي ال مثيل لها في أي من المتاحف األخرى في‬ ‫العالم بأبهى حلة‪ ،‬والحفاظ عليها لألجيال القادمة‪.‬‬ ‫وتم جرد كل قطع المعرض الجديد‪ ،‬سواء تلك‬ ‫الموجودة في األصل في متحف اللوفر أو التي‬ ‫قدمت على سبيل اإلعارة الدائمة من قبل متحف‬ ‫الفنون‪ ،‬وتم تصوير كل قطعة‪ ،‬ووزنها‪ ،‬وتحليلها‬ ‫بهدف الحفاظ عليها‪.‬‬ ‫وتنطوي خطة العمل الشاملة‪ ،‬التي لم يسبق لها‬ ‫مثيل في حجمها‪ ،‬على التحقق من صحة حوالي ‪18‬‬ ‫ألف قطعة تاريخية بمشاركة العديد من الخبراء‬ ‫االستشاريين والمهنيين من خارج متحف اللوفر‪ ،‬من‬ ‫خبراء في الترميم‪ ،‬وباحثين‪ ،‬ومصورين‪ ،‬بالتعاون مع‬ ‫موظفي إدارة متحف الفن اإلسالمي‪ ،‬مما يشكل‬ ‫تحديا لمتحف اللوفر في إعادة تعريف نفسه مرة‬ ‫أخرى كي يحظى بإعجاب عشاق الفن اإلسالمي‬ ‫في أوروبا والعالم الغربي‪.‬‬ ‫‪78‬‬

‫نظــرة إلى الشــرق‬

‫معرض الفــن اإلسالمي الجديد في باريــس‬ ‫بقلم لو�شيا غوارانو‬

‫زيارة معرض الفن اإلسالمي الجديد لمتحف اللوفر ال يشكل مجرد فرصة لزيادة معارف‬ ‫المرء بخصوص واحدة من أقدم الديانات في العالم‪ ،‬وإنما هي بداية لرحلة من أوروبا‬ ‫إلى الهند تمتد من القرن السابع إلى القرن التاسع عشر‪ .‬وتقدر تكلفة المعرض الجديد‬ ‫بـ ‪ 475‬مليون ريال (‪ 130‬مليون دوالر) وهو يضم ‪ 3000‬قطعة ثمينة من أسبانيا‪ ،‬ومصر‪،‬‬ ‫واإلمبراطورية المغولية في الهند‪ ،‬وبالد فارس‪ ،‬وآسيا الوسطى‪ ،‬معروضة تحت مظلة‬ ‫عمالقة من األلمنيوم المتموج ذهبية اللون من تصميم المهندس المعماري اإليطالي‪ ،‬ماريو بيليني‪.‬‬ ‫يشكل المعرض محاولة لردم الفجوة الثقافية «وهو يهدف إلى تمثيل الوجه الحقيقي والمشرق لإلسالم»‪،‬‬

‫إن‬ ‫‪79‬‬

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* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

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* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 106.

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fashion associates: edward barsamian and mallory schlau

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The New York Times Style Magazine

HOLIDAY 2012

breaking the mold artwork by fabien baron 85

A Delicate

balance Nicaragua has long been an unplugged paradise. What happens when the jet set arrives? Karlie kloss tests the waters.

By julia felsenthal Photographs by ryan mcginley Fashion editor: sara moonves high ground In Lake Nicaragua, with the island of ometepe in the distance. Balenciaga by Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re tunic, QR6,710.

It’s about 4 o’clock

on a Thursday, and a caftan-bedecked Karlie Kloss is perched on the edge of a gigantic, fuming volcano crater, her bare legs and feet dangling into the hazy void. ‘‘Make it look more adventurous,’’ calls out Ryan McGinley, the photographer snapping her from an equally precarious spot on a nearby outcropping of rock. ‘‘It’s pretty damn adventurous,’’ Kloss yells back, and I have to agree. We’re in Nicaragua, at Masaya Volcano National Park, staring at Santiago, a crater nestled between the twin volcanic peaks of Masaya and Nindirí. Calling Santiago dramatic is like calling the Sahara dry. A landscape of serene pastel greenery gives way suddenly to a gaping abyss, walls lined with ribbons of red and brown rock, a steady plume of sulfurous gas issuing from its depths. The shrieking vultures that make their nests in the craggy cliffs dip and circle into the haze. It’s so devastatingly beautiful that the other visitors to the park at this late afternoon hour — a group of Asian tourists, a set of scrubswearing American doctors and a class of high schoolers from somewhere up North — seem utterly unconcerned with the devastating beauty posing recklessly for the camera. It took us only about 30 minutes to get here from Managua, a straight shot down the Carretera a Masaya and then a threemile uphill drive after an inconspicuous right turn off the main road. In the parking lot next to the crater there are only a few cars and a makeshift concession stand selling bananas and freshly tapped coconuts. The place feels strangely devoid of the usual trappings of tourism. Where are all the enterprising Nicaraguans trying to sell me stuff? And in a country this lovely, in a place this easy to get to, where are all the people? They’re coming — if the Nicaraguan government has its way. In the past couple of years, the country has been making a huge push to remedy its gigantic public image problem (memories of a brutal civil war in the ’80s have been difficult to erase) in service of convincing travelers from the United States and abroad that it’s not so different from Costa Rica, its tourism-magnet neighbor to the south. There used to be two kinds of people in the United States when it came to Nicaragua, Mario Salinas, the country’s minister of tourism, told me over the phone: one who didn’t know anything about Nicaragua and another who had a bad image of the place. But Americans, he attests, are seeing the country anew. They see that Nicaraguans are a‘‘very, very friendly people, very friendly country, very open country,’’ he says. ‘‘It’s easy to go to Nicaragua. It’s easy to make a difference in Nicaragua. It’s easy to invest in Nicaragua.’’ The country’s latest governmental quarterly report on tourism says as much: visitors from the United States were up 11.3 percent from January to July of 2012 over the same period in 2011. Down where we’ve set up camp, in Maderas, a beach community in the southwest of the country, the influx of tourism — or just the anticipation of an influx — is obvious. The rough dirt road that winds up from from Playa Maderas, a

crescent-shaped beach whose off-shore winds and consistent swell has endeared it to surfers near and far, is lined with hotels and vacation rentals in various stages of construction. ‘‘When I first came here, not a single person didn’t tell me I was crazy,’’ says Dave Grossman, a 29-year-old American who moved here two and a half years ago and who runs the place where I’m staying, Maderas Village, with two other foreigners: Matt Dickinson, from Toronto, and Anthony Hermans, from Belgium, both also 29. When Grossman goes home to New York, he finds that Nicaragua is now ‘‘a much bigger part of the conversation.’’ For a long time, the people having that conversation have been surfers and backpackers — adventure travelers undeterred by Nicaragua’s dicey reputation or lack of modern amenities. If you go 20 minutes south of Maderas to San Juan del Sur, an old fishing village that’s turned into a cheap spring break mecca, backpacker culture reigns supreme. According to Kelly Ann Thomas — co-owner of El Gato Negro, an English-language bookstore and cafe — who has lived in San Juan since 2004, the town’s embrace of spring-breakers has hurt higher-end tourism. ‘‘It’s all about setting up bars and kiosks everywhere,’’ she tells me. ‘‘If you’re a disco, you can have your music thumping until 4 o’clock in the morning.’’ Indeed, Maderas Village is oriented toward a surfing crowd, albeit a lower-key one. Our team sleeps in rustic

close encounters On Maderas Beach. Chanel swimsuit, price on request;. opposite: At a Farm in Marsella. Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière bra, DHs 1000.

In a country this lovely, in a place this easy to get to, where are all the tourists?

field trip in a farmer’s pasture near La Virgen. Gap shirt, QR60; Chloé skirt, QR7,300. opposite: In Masaya Volcano National Park. chloé top, QR8,982, and shorts, QR8,262. hair and makeup by holli smith for wella professionals at total management.

cabanas (no hot water, air-conditioning or even, when I was there, fans), thoughtfully designed with hardwood floors and lofty thatched roofs. Sliding screen doors open out onto raw, lush jungle; at 5:30 a.m., when the howler monkeys erupt with their eerie bullfroglike calls, they may as well be in bed with you. Technicolor crabs scuttle across the dirt paths leading from the cabanas to the main building. This is where guests gather after a day in the water — a plein-air living room, with sofas, hammocks and two long dining tables, where a pescatarian communal dinner is served every night. Good vibes abound. But if you talk to the three guys who run it, you’ll hear a higher-concept pitch: they see it as a place where overstressed urban sorts can come to work remotely for months at a time, and where ambitious up-and-comers can rub elbows with like-minded people who have similarly big ideas — a sort of jungle Summit Series. They also feel a new wind blowing. In early 2013, they’ll break ground on a project they’re calling the Upper Village: a luxury development on a plot of land up the hill from their current spot. It will consist of seven two- or three-bedroom villas, each with its own pool

and a full kitchen (plus the option to hire a private chef ), as well as the basics: hot water and air-conditioning. ‘‘The Lower Village is for people who are making it,’’ Grossman explains. ‘‘And the Upper Village is for people who made it.’’ When it comes to high-end development, nobody’s banking on it like Carlos Pellas. The scion of one of the most prominent families in Nicaragua, he’s in the process of developing a three-phase $250 million resort community about an hour up the coast from Maderas. Called Guacalito de la Isla, it will have vacation condos starting at QR1.55 million along with a luxury resort hotel called Mukul — scheduled to open in February — that will comprise about 40 expansive beach-side and hilltop casitas and include an elaborate spa and a golf course. (Phases 2 and 3 will add an airport, a marina and another hotel project.) ‘‘For me it’s very difficult to see a country become a tourist destination without having a world-class resort,’’ Pellas told me over the phone. His goal is to attract a class of people who wouldn’t currently consider Nicaragua, the type, he says, whose tweets and Instagrams and likes actually stand a chance of changing perceptions of the country worldwide. ‘‘The challenge is just to bring them here once,’’ he said. When they do come, Pellas believes any old negative associations will be ‘‘pretty much dispelled.’’ Like most expats and Nicaraguans I spoke to, Pellas sees tourism, and the foreign investment it brings, as the

potential salvation of a country that is the second poorest in the Western Hemisphere. But Pellas also feels that Nicaragua, having come so late to the tourism game, has an opportunity to develop in the right way. Since taking on the Guacalito project, he’s started programs that donate supplies to area schools and provide local families with water filters and access to health seminars. Mukul’s golf architect was given strict instructions to design around the landscape; when trees could not be worked around, they were uprooted and replanted. Pellas eschewed investment from outside partners so he wouldn’t have to cut corners or put community-oriented projects on the back burner — a noble, if privileged, approach to development. Tim Rogers, a Nicaragua-based journalist who has written about the Guacalito project, tells me that Pellas’s vision may be just what the country needs. ‘‘If we can have one huge project that can be a landmark project, a real seal of approval on Nicaragua,’’ he says, ‘‘this will have an enormous trickledown effect.’’ It’s difficult to see even the seeds of tourism on the western shores of Lake Nicaragua near the village of La Virgen, where we’re wrapping up our shoot (though we’re told the difficultto-get-to island of Ometepe, which looms in the background of our shot, is a popular destination). Lake Nicaragua, the largest in Central America, once served as an important waterway for transporting gold rushers from the east coast of the United States to California. On this particular day, it’s known best, at least in the hyper-local sense, for the model frolicking in its depths. She’s drawn a small crowd, who watch intently as she does her thing — balancing on the bow of a small dinghy, climbing up onto a platform mysteriously floating in the lake. Overhead, egrets and sparrows weave around in a misty, late-afternoon sky. In the distance are the two volcanoes that emerge, blue-black, from Ometepe; condensation clings to their cones, the clouds like powdery white hairpieces knocked comically askew. The offshore winds that give the Pacific coast good surf gain force over Lake Nicaragua, blowing at such consistent strength that energy companies have been installing wind farms along the western shore. ‘‘This should be one of the best kiteboarding camps in the world,’’ Matt Dickinson tells me, pointing up toward the houses that line the top of the beach — ramshackle buildings made of concrete, wood and corrugated metal. ‘‘Put a lodge up there,’’ he says. Two Nicaraguan men sitting about 10 yards away seem to share Dickinson’s enthusiasm for tourism and its possibilities. One of them, a fisherman named Carlos, rented us his rowboat for an earlier shot and is now bailing water from its hull. The other, a man named Luis who is wearing a ‘‘Survivor’’ T-shirt (one of his sons worked on the show when it filmed in Nicaragua in 2010), works in the ministry of health in nearby Rivas. They are happy to see a photo shoot happening on their lake — happy to see this part of Nicaragua getting worldwide attention. Carlos tells me he’s been here his whole life, pointing toward the house he lives in, one of the ones Dickinson and I have just discussed obliterating. Nicaragua may still be a place where a fisherman can lay claim to one of the most arresting views in town. But all signs point to those vistas soon belonging to vacation villa complexes, fish taco joints and kite surfing lodges. The people may not be here quite yet, but they’re coming n

essentials: southwest Nicaragua

Hotels Totoco Eco-Lodge Perched above the town of Balgüe, this eco-friendly spot in Ometepe has nice views of Concepción volcano.totoco.com.ni; doubles from QR245. Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge The granddaddy of Nicaraguan eco lodges sits on a huge farm on the Pacific coast, which produces much of the resort’s food. morgansrock.com; doubles from QR580 per person. Maderas Village A stylishly rustic surf camp nestled in the jungle above one of area’s most popular beaches. maderasvillage.com; cabanas from QR430. Buena Vista Surf Club A Zen-like retreat down the road from Maderas Village; buenavistasurfclub.com; doubles from QR470. Aqua Wellness Resort Treetop rooms, a spa and a yoga focus make this ideal for the low-key traveler. aquanicaragua.com; doubles from QR470. Mukul Carlos Pellas’s luxury resort and spa, due to open in February. mukulresort.com; doubles from QR1,800. Pelican Eyes Resort San Juan de Sur retreat with great views of the bay. pelicaneyesresort.com; doubles from QR650. Restaurants and Cafes The area’s food options are centered in San Juan del Sur. Offerings include Pan de Vida, a brick oven bakery that sells delicious bread and sweets; El Gato Negro, a cafe and bookstore with coffee made from beans roasted on the premises; Taco Stop for tasty fish burritos; and El Colibri, with a Mediterranean-inspired menu and open-air dining room. 91

Who Pretty Boy? Are You Calling

With a clutch of recent roles that allow him to be villainous, look ordinary and even grow a paunch, Jude Law is letting go of being a heartthrob and getting down to the more interesting business of being an actor. By SARAH LYALL Photographs by Sam TAYLOR johnson Fashion editor: BRUCE PASK

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‘‘I’m

really sorry,’’ Jude Law said, explaining why he was late for breakfast — brunch, by now. ‘‘I was on kitty duty.’’ (An emergency in a tree?) ‘‘Kiddie duty,’’ he repeated: a situation involving his 10-year-old son, a fever and an unscheduled pick-up at school. Of course it was now impossible to be cross at him, as he slipped into a seat at his neighborhood cafe and picked up a menu. More disorienting was the fact that he did not altogether look like himself, or at least not the himself that usually appears on screen. The familiarly firm-jawed, elegantly lean star with the piercing blue eyes and the almost unfair level of handsomeness had been replaced by someone else, ‘Off-Duty Jude.’ This version was heftier, less gorgeous

those days have passed, he said, and good riddance to them. ‘‘In a weird way, it’s kind of a relief to think, ‘Oh, I know I’m not that young sort of pretty thing anymore,’ ’’ he said. ‘‘It’s quite nice talking about what it was like to be the young pretty thing, rather than being it.’’ Law feels he has come through a period, too, when he did not pick his roles as wisely as he should have, or pay as much attention to what he wanted from his career. He was working constantly, but not necessarily with care, in part because he had a family to support and financial demands to meet. He had started looking at acting as just a job. ‘‘Without sounding too pretentious, it’s difficult to remember that it’s an art form and you are, maybe, an artist and you have to make decisions on that level,’’ he said. ‘‘I feel kind of more confident, more settled as a human being, more settled in my own skin.’’ When he was younger, he said, he longed to be taken seriously but found that some of his roles did not allow him to do that. Being older, ‘‘you are allowed to be an actor, and the parts you get are more interesting.’’ Playing Karenin was a welcome challenge. ‘‘It seemed to go against everything I have done, and it was fun to investigate the sides of a man that I hadn’t done before in any way, shape or form,’’ Law said. But it did not mean he was playing against type, he said, ‘‘because I always play against type; I have never played anyone like me.’’ Wright told me that he had to work with Law to downplay his natural charisma and good looks. ‘‘It was a matter of suggesting that he did less and not more,’’ Wright said. ‘‘I had to stop him doing his ‘handsome face’ ’’ — raised eyebrows, furrowed brow, wide-open eyes. ‘‘It was about working with the mouth, but not expressing too much.’’ Law changed his physical appearance further still. Keira Knightley, who plays Anna in the film, said she was ‘‘surprised when he chose to actually cut his hair that way and not just wear a wig.’’ (Karenin has an extremely receding hairline; Law, it turns out, does not.) We were in Maida Vale, an elegant enclave in West London. People are used to seeing Law here, or maybe they didn’t recognize him that day, but no one seemed perturbed by the celebrity in their midst. He lives around the corner, near his exwife, the actress and fashion designer Sadie Frost, and they share custody of their three children — one week at his place, one week at hers. ‘‘I would not have been

‘I feel kind of more confident, more settled as a human being, more settled in my own skin.’ and had a beard, something Law tends to grow between roles since it is the only time he gets to pick what happens to his hair, but which has the negative effect of obscuring his face. Also, O.D.J. was wearing a pair of verging-on-sloppy sweatpants. There was a reason for that, too: after a summer of not exercising and gorging on fattening food in order to gain weight for his next movie role, Law could no longer fit into any of his regular pants. He ordered a plate of scrambled eggs and a chocolate milkshake. He does not seem vain, although most people probably would be if they’d been cast, as he was, as a perfect physical specimen in the 1997 science-fiction movie ‘‘Gattaca.’’ In any case, this is a time of change for him. This month, Law turns the interesting age of 40, and in his most recent film, an adaptation of ‘‘Anna Karenina’’ directed by Joe Wright, he plays Karenin, Anna’s morally severe, emotionally barren, piously dutiful, highly controlling pain in the neck of a husband — all Old Testament, no sex appeal. A few years ago, Law would have been everyone’s choice as Vronsky, Anna’s lover, the story’s romantic hero and shallow eye candy, but 94

able to have the usual kind of paternal-role situation of one weekend every two weeks,’’ he said. ‘‘I enjoy it too much.’’ Everyone gets along so well that they take vacations together. ‘‘We made a decision very early on that whatever our opinion of each other — which I have to say is a good one — we were going to maintain the function of the family,’’ Law said. (He also has a young daughter in New York, the result of a brief affair, with whom he is in regular contact.) But we know all that already. We also know about Law’s rocky relationship — including a failed engagement — with the actress Sienna Miller, whom he met on the set of ‘‘Alfie.’’ We know that during that relationship he had an affair with his children’s nanny. We know intimate details of many conversations he had, private things that happened with Frost, things to do with his kids. We know far too much, in fact. None of that is Law’s fault. For several years in the 2000s, Law was permanently shadowed by the paparazzi. Not just shadowed; sometimes he would get to places and they would already be there, waiting for him. Most of them worked for the low-rent tabloid News of the World, which for a time seemed to be channeling Law’s life directly into its pages. Most of the stories weren’t wholly accurate, but all were based on nuggets of truth, and some of the quotes seemed plucked from actual conversations. ‘‘You suddenly start to go, ‘What, what, wait a minute. How do they know this? Where

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‘It’s quite nice talking about what it was like to be the young pretty thing, rather than being it.’ 97

are they piecing this together from?’ ’’ he said, recalling some of the details of his life he saw in the press. It was clear something was going on, but Law did not know what. He became paranoid. He had his house swept for bugs and his car searched for tracking devices. He mistrusted acquaintances, even wondered about friends and family members. ‘‘The weird thing is that you start taking things for granted,’’ he said. ‘‘Like I thought, Maybe this is just heightened interest in what I’m doing. This is what my life has become. This is my lot and I’ve got to deal with it.’’ At the end of 2010, Law got a call from Scotland Yard. The

‘‘We were halfway through ‘Side Effects’ when I realized that I have never heard him complain about any aspect of his life, any aspect of his work,’’ Soderbergh said. ‘‘He’s one of those people that kind of drains to an optimistic place in general, someone who’s very adept at adjusting his equilibrium so he can stay focused.’’ Away from his job, ‘Off-Duty Jude’ lives what seems to be a surprisingly normal life, based around family and a large network of friends. He is a hands-on dad. Recently, he said, he forbade his 16-year-old son to get a tattoo of what looked to be some song lyrics that might seem intense now but would not be so appealing in, say, 30 years. Law himself has tattoos, including one saying ‘‘Sexy Sadie,’’ from when he was with Frost, and another depicting a huddle of ants, In homage to the late Anthony Minghella, who directed him in ‘‘The Talented Mr. Ripley.’’ ‘‘Well,

The media, Law said, ‘kind of stripped me and my relationships bare — there was nothing left to write.’ police had uncovered thousands of pages of notes taken by an investigator hired by the News of the World to dig up dirt on public figures, they told him, and one of the names in the notes was Law’s. ‘‘They just had piles of notes with my credit card details, phone numbers, contacts, friends’ contacts, parents’ phone numbers,’’ he said. They also had recordings of voicemail messages from and to him. ‘‘There was this awful afternoon when they came over with a tape recorder and said, ‘Could you verify that this is you?’ ’’ None of this surprised him, really, but it made him feel less crazy. ‘‘To have other people go, ‘This is outrageous’ meant that I didn’t feel like this sort of mad, paranoid, dystopian lunatic saying, ‘the world’s following me — what’s going on?’ ’’ he recalled. ‘‘It felt, strangely, kind of justifying.’’ Law sued the paper’s publisher, Rupert Murdoch’s News Group Newspapers. (The News of the World itself was shut down in disgrace by Murdoch in the summer of 2011.) Last January, Law settled for about $200,000 (QR728,000), a settlement that included an abject apology from the company. Determined to bring that chapter of his life to a close, he decided not to testify at the Leveson Inquiry into media ethics, even though many fellow celebrities, including Hugh Grant, did. ‘‘I felt like this whole thing had been about trying to preserve and re-create some kind of privacy,’’ he said. ‘‘I didn’t want to be on TV talking about my life.’’ Acting was in Law’s blood as a child in south London. (Students of British accents will notice that his is a notch or two less plummy than that of, say, Grant’s or Colin Firth’s.) His parents were teachers and members of a celebrated amateur drama company. ‘‘It was just a huge part of my childhood,’’ he said. ‘‘I would come down in the mornings, and half the furniture would be gone because they were using it as a set in a new play.’’ Becoming an actor was as natural as putting on a coat that had always been in his closet. ‘‘It wasn’t like I suddenly announced that I was going to do this. It was just what I always did, and what always felt kind of comfortable and familiar.’’ Steven Soderbergh, who directed the forthcoming ‘‘Side Effects,’’ in which Law plays a psychiatrist caught up in a scandal involving prescription drugs, said that Law radiates a kind of calm, even after so many years in the business. 98

you’ve got them,’’ Law recalled his son saying, to which he responded, ‘‘Yes, but you’ve got to know that what you get is going to be forever and I don’t think at 16 you know what forever is.’’ He has been watching old movies with his son, who, Law said, is finally taking an interest in his father’s profession. (His children have not watched many of his movies.) He also collects art in what he described as a modest way, and this year is presenting the Turner Prize, given annually to a contemporary artist. He is active in ‘Peace One Day,’ a campaign started by his friend Jeremy Gilley, and later that evening the three of us were driven together to a fund-raising auction for the group. Twenty-three artists, including Damien Hirst and Antony Gormley, had each been given an AK-47 and an assignment: Turn it into something that speaks to war and to peace. In the car, Gilley was talking nonstop about Law; Law was talking nonstop about Gilley. (I was listening in the middle.) ‘Peace One Day,’ Law explained, lobbied the United Nations until in 2001 it declared one day a year — September 21 — a day of non-violence and global cease-fire. In recent years Afghanistan agreed to mark it by laying down its weapons, an act that, for starters, has enabled relief organizations to enter war-torn territories and vaccinate millions of children. Law speaks on behalf of the group, appears in its videos and has made several trips to Afghanistan and elsewhere with Gilley, lobbying N.G.O.’s, high-level United Nations officials and tribal leaders. ‘‘He understands every aspect of what ‘Peace One Day’ does,’’ Gilley said. ‘‘Everyone we met had heard of him. It was a wonderful thing when negotiating, when trying to get the opportunity to show that peace was possible, to have Jude beside me. It’s opened a lot of doors.’’ At the auction, Law talked to some of the artists, looked at some of the art and then made a few brief remarks about the group before fading anonymously into the crowd. The next day he was due to fly to the south of France for his next role, in ‘‘Dom Hemingway,’’ another out-of-character turn in which he was to put his new physique to good effect by playing a beefy, violent man with another bad haircut. There was some media interest in Law at the auction, but it was respectful and not obnoxious, in keeping with the new phase of his life in which nobody is listening to his messages, nobody is following him around, and nobody is printing his every utterance in the tabloids. ‘‘They had kind of stripped me and my relationships bare — there was nothing left to write,’’ Law said. ‘‘And there is only so much laundry one has, in the end, to be washed in public.’’ How liberating, too, he said, to be that much older and not have to maintain an impossible image of perfection. Confronted with a rack of clothes at the photo shoot for this article, he told me his reaction had been, ‘‘Look, tell me what I’m wearing — I really don’t care.’’ He added: ‘‘I don’t have a lot of time anymore for standing around choosing outfits. I’m too long in the tooth for that now.’’ n

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Twelve for

â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12

For this dream dozen, it was a year to score big.

By Jacob brown Photographs by Graeme Mitchell Fashion editors: ethel park and jason rider 100

Allison ADLER As one of the writers and producers behind the smash hit ‘‘Glee,’’ Allison Adler, who’s been writing for TV for 20 years, helped change the conventional wisdom about what could work on mainstream network television. Asked about Adler’s contribution, the show’s creator, Ryan Murphy calls her ‘‘a star.’’ So it’s no surprise that he tapped her for his boundary-pushing network hit ‘‘The New Normal.’’ Yes, it’s a family sitcom, which is a pretty normal genre. But the families it features are anything but — until you watch the show and realize that, actually, they are. Prada jacket, QR9,106.75, shirt, QR3,723, pants, QR3,120, and

shoes, price on request; prada. com.

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Gabrielle douglas Douglas’s Olympic achievement — winning gold in both individual and group gymnastics competitions, and being the first African-American to do so — has made her something of an instant American icon. She’s currently on a national tour, and her autobiography comes out this month from HarperCollins. T by alexander wang swim top, QR711, and swim bottom, QR547. tiffany & coMPANY earrings, QR55,845; tiffany.com.

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Edward barber and Jay OSGERBY The designers Edward Barber (left) and Jay Osgerby hit the big time with their sleek 2012 Olympic torch (next up is a new ÂŁ2 coin), but the British duo were already stars in the design world for their sensual minimalism and their obsession with how things are made, which will be the focus of an exhibition of their work next May at the Design Museum in London. pilar viladas on barber: marni jacket and pants, price on request; marni.com. his own shirt. on osgerby: a.p.c. jacket and sweater, price on request; apc.fr. his own t-shirt and jeans.

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Cheryl strayed In this era when memoir seems to pervade all genres, ‘‘Wild,’’ Cheryl Strayed’s second book, stood out from the crowd this year, hitting No. 1 on the New York Times nonfiction best-seller list. Even before her commercial success, Strayed had been accumulating a lot of fans, albeit anonymously: in February she outed herself as the writer behind the popular advice column ‘‘Dear Sugar,’’ published by the online literary magazine The Rumpus. St. john dress, QR2,901; saks fifth avenue. ivanka trump ring (on right hand ring finger), QR127,750; ivankatrumpcollection.com. Verdura ring (on right hand pinkie), price on request, ring (on right hand middle finger), QR34,675, Ring (on Left hand middle finger), QR27,375; verdura.com. Van cleef & arpels ring (on left hand ring finger), price on request; vancleefarpels.com.

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Bones the machine and D.J. Aaron

Race IMboden

Steven Hill (left), who performs as Bones the Machine, and his partner, D.J. Aaron (right), began pushing the limits of how far their bodies could stretch over 10 years ago. The result is a unique style of musicvideo-influenced dance called Flexing. It certainly owes a debt to Harlem voguing, but these guys are not camp. They are postured, aggressive and perfect for the YouTube age.

After returning from the Olympics in London, Race Imboden (center) temporarily traded in his fencing lamĂŠ to spin records and also hit New York Fashion Week as a model for Marc Jacobs. At 19, Imboden is one of the youngest members of the United States Olympic fencing team; he hopes to compete at two more Games â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and give fencing its hip credentials.

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Ang LeE The sheer variety of Ang Lee’s oeuvre makes him an auteur. But his latest, ‘‘Life of Pi,’’ which uses 3-D technology to adapt what many considered an unfilmable book, makes him a master. Most of the action in the film takes place in a dinghy, whose cramped quarters the protagonist shares with a number of wild beasts, including a ferocious tiger. In providing a visceral feel for the smallness of the boat, the largeness of the animals and the vastness of the surrounding ocean, Lee’s use of technology as a dramatic tool sets the bar for other directors. Louis vuitton jacket, QR6,935, and shirt, QR1,989. his own Watch.

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A$ap rocky The Harlem native A$ap Rocky has been a fashionworld favorite since playing some of his very first shows, at places like the Alife Rivington Club. Not that there’s anything particularly unique about rappers being well versed in fashion. But his spot-on style is wholly real — it’s how he’s always dressed — and resonates with his indie fan base more authentically than that of other more established musicians. alexander wang sweater,QR3,084 . rick owens pants, QR2,117, and sneakers, QR4,416; mrporter.com.

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Ciarra PARDO When it comes to pop stars, the role of creative director can mean a lot of different things. Working behind the scenes for Rihanna since the beginning, Ciarra Pardo has handled everything from fashion to music videos. And that makes her work for the pop star — whose succession of hits like ‘‘We Found Love’’ and ‘‘Diamonds’’ has attained an unrivaled level of currency — especially impressive. Salvatore ferragamo top, QR7,044, skirt, QR3,759, and boots, QR23,725.

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Wu TSANG The personal films and video installations created by the artist Wu Tsang explore issues of transgender identity and have been shown at MoMA, where ‘‘Wildness’’ will screen on Dec. 16, and as part of both the 2012 Whitney Biennial and 2012 New Museum Triennial. (Tsang was the only artist to appear in both prestigious surveys.) Tsang identifies as transfeminine, which carries plenty of complicated social and political meaning. And he happens to look fierce in a dress. Ann demeulemeester jacket, QR8,924, and dress, QR5,566; bergdorf goodman. fashion associate: Mallory Schlau. fashion assistants: elena hale, benjamin kennedy and tas tobey. Adler, lee and Tsang: Hair by Jarrett iovinella at the magnet agency using vocé. Makeup and grooming by sandra ganzer for nars cosmetics at jed root, inc. manicure by tracey sutter for cloutier remix. Douglas: Hair by wesley O’meara using motions at the wall group. Makeup by lisa aharon at kate ryan inc. for laura mercier. manicure by maki sakamoto at kate ryan inc. for chanel. Barber and osgerby: grooming by joanna lily wong at www.joannalilywong.com. Pardo, bones, aaron, imboden and strayed: Hair by yukiko tajima. makeup by asami matsuda using chanel at the magnet agency. manicure by maki sakamoto at kate ryan inc. for chanel.

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brand directory Aigner

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111 Highland - The Mall - 44678678 1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1051

Adolfo Dominguez

Lagoon Mall - 44811317

A. Lange & Sohne

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888

Agent Provocateur

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2271

Canali

Franck Muller

John Galliano

Calvin Klein Collection

Frette

Just Cavalli

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1831 10 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2561

Carolina Herrera

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134748

Cartier

Cartier Boutique - Royal Plaza 44131381 Cartier Boutique - Villaggio Mall Via Domo - 44507798

Alexander McQueen

Celine

Amouage

Chloe

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2231 51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134763 7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 66 00 7433

Armani Exchange

Christian Dior

Balmain

Chopard

Balenciaga

Cugini

Villaggio Mall - 44161005

51 East - Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777 6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1861

Banana Republic

Villaggio Mall 44135222/44507961

Barbara Bui

Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

Betty Barclay

Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Berluti

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44161860

Bikkembergs

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44135222/44134665 Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44519900 2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1471

Damiani

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

David Morris

Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewelry Royal Plaza - 44131391

Diesel

Salam Stores - 44485555 4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1701

Dolce & Gabbana

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44161007

Blumarine

Domenico Vacca

Boss Orange

Dunhill

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1811 Salam Plaza - 44485555 The Mall - 44551325 Porto Arabia,The Pearl Qatar 44953876 Extn 1521

Bottega Veneta

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44507354

Breitling

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

Brioni

51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777

Burberry

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134551

Bvlgari

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134568

Boucheron

Lagoona Mall 44361111/44335555

110

1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1061 Royal Plaza - 44131381 Villaggio Mall - 44134788

Diptyque

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2241

Elie Saab

Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

Emporio Armani

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2161

Ermenegildo Zegna

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134765

Fendi

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888 Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44600945

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44519900 Royal Plaza - 44360560 Landmark Shopping Mall 44874331

Galliano

4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1771

Georg Jensen

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2251

GF Ferre

4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1631/1641

Giorgio Armani

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1921

Giovanni Ferraris

Al Muftah Jewelry - Al Sadd 44441320 Al Muftah Jewelry - Royal Plaza 44131341 Al Muftah Jewelry - City Centre 44833000

Giuseppe Zanotti Design

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2291

Givenchy

The Mall - 44678888/44667406

Gucci

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134612

Harry Winston

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44519900

Harmont & Blaine

2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1481

Hermes

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1911/2041

Hublot

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888 Al Majed Jewelry - Villaggio Mall 44507701

Hugo Boss

Salam Plaza - 44485555/44077162 The Mall - 44672200 The Gate - 44077162 Extn 320

Ice Iceberg

4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1651

Jaeger LeCoulture

Al Majed Jewelry - Villaggio Mall 44507701 Al Majed Boutique - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street -Al Saad - 44478888

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2301 4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1751

Kenzo

Porto Arabia - Parcel 4 - The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 - Extn 1991 Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Lacoste

Villaggio Mall - 44507191 Landmark Shopping Mall 44887604

Lanvin Paris

Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

LeoPizzo

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Loewe

Zai - Salwa Road - 44507356 Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44507356

Love Moschino

2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1061 Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Louis Vuitton

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134927

Maurice Lacriox Watches

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

M Missoni

4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1691

Montblanc

Villaggio Mall - 44507009 The Mall - 44674920 The Four Seasons Hotel 44935288/44948448

Mulberry

1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 - Extn 1111

Messika

Royal Plaza - 44131391

Nespresso

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

Omega

Rivoli Prestige - City Center 44833679 Rivoli Prestige - Villaggio Mall 44519750 Rivoli Prestige - Landmark Shopping Mall - 44873190 Rivoli Prestige - The Mall 44678866

PAMELLATO

Ali Bin Ali W&J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Pal Zileri

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111 The Mall - 44678888

Panerai

Villaggio Mall 44135222/44519866

Patek Philippe

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888

Prada

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44135222

Qatar Executive

Qatar Airways Office - Airport Road - 44453800

Ralph Lauren

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44135655

Rene Caovilla

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1851

Richard Mille

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Roberto Cavalli

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2151

Romain Jerome

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Rolex

51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44361111/44257777

Repossi

Ali Bin Ali W&J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Schreiner

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Sonia Rykiel

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1801

Sephora

Landmark Shopping Mall 44875222 Villaggio Mall - 44135222

Sergio Rossi

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876

Salvatore Ferragamo

1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1941

Sormani Restaurant

S.T. Dupont

Royal Plaza - 44341765

Swarovski

Landmark Shopping Mall 44838158

Tanagra

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134780

Qatar

Tod's

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134937

Tiffany & Co.

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134976

where style lives.

Tom Ford

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44831027

Valentino

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44135222/44161008

Van Cleef & Arpels

Villaggio Mall - 44169399

Vera Wang

1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 5157

Vertu

Rivoli Prestige - City Center 44833679 Rivoli Prestige - Landmark Shopping Mall - 44873190 Rivoli Prestige - The Mall 44678866 Rivoli Prestige - Villaggio Mall 44519750

Versace Collection

Villaggio Mall - 44135437

Virgin Megastore

Villaggio Mall - 44135824 Landmark Shopping Mall 44182242

Weekend Max Mara

2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1611

Zenith

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

51 East

City Center Doha Salwa Road - 44257777

Blue Salon

Suhaim Bin Hamad Street 44466111/44678888

Emporium

Suhaim Bin Hamad Street 44375796/44375798

Lagoona Mall

West Bay - 44257766

Royal Plaza

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1941

Stella McCartney

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2281

139

Al Sadd Street - 44130000

Salam Studio & Stores

Salam Plaza - Near City Centre 44485555 Salam Stores - The Mall 44672200

The Mall

D-Ring Road - 44678888

The Gate

Maysaloun Street - West Bay 44932524/44077201

Villaggio

Al Waab Street - 44135222

1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 77825300

Stefano Ricci

N Y T I M E S . C O M / T M AG A Z I N E | M O N T H T K 0 0 , 2 0 0 8

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111

Angel Haze shares lyrical quirks and

native Voice 112

PHO TO GR A PH BY SEbastian kim. fashion editor : Ethel Park .

aesthetic tics with the indie rappers of the moment: Azealia Banks, Sasha Go Hard, Zebra Katz. But the 21-year-old Raee’n Wahya (her Cherokee name) is already transcending those ranks. If anything she’s more like Nicki Minaj, with her big ambitions and knack for rhyme, although Wahya decided early on she wouldn’t rely on gimmicks or a hypersexualized image. She rants against misogyny, trumpets her heritage and is honest about herself — nearly to a fault. In late October she released ‘‘Cleaning Out My Closet,’’ divulging details of her childhood sexual abuse, which she survived in part by taking inspiration from Eminem, to whom the song is a brilliant tribute. Next year, Wahya will begin an international tour, release several EPs and videos — including one for her biggest hit, ‘‘New York’’ — and cut her first full album, which will be more melodic. ‘‘I’m not a rapper, I’m a rock star,’’ she says. ‘‘I just wanna work hard. Taylor Swift’s my archnemesis.’’ Really? ‘‘Nah, I love her. I wanna be like her.’’ JACOB BROWN

Balmain sweater, QR2,080, and pants, QR7,665,; barneys.com. Nike sportswear sneakers; nike.com. Fashion associate: Mallory schlau. Hair by wesley o’meara at the wall group. Makeup by stevie huynh at the wall group. Manicure by maki sakamoto at kate ryan inc. for chanel.

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