Enterprise 14 02 Conor McGregor by Hot Press Publishing

ENTERPRISE LINKING DUBLIN AND BELFAST

Volume 14:02

ON TOP OF THE WORLD C ONOR Mc GRE G OR

ST. VINCENT

CILLIAN MURPHY

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What is EURES and what can it do for you? It’s a network of advisers which provides free advice and guidance to workers and employers on living and working conditions in Ireland, Northern Ireland and the EU It’s a network of advisers which provides free assistance to employers wishing to recruit workers from Ireland and Northern Ireland It’s a website which provides guidance and advice on job opportunities as well as applicable living and working conditions in Ireland and Northern Ireland

VISIT US NOW AT

WWW.EURESCROSSBORDER.EU This Partnership has received financial support from the European Union Programme for Employment and Social Innovation “EaSI” (2014-2020). For further information please consult: http://ec.europa.eu/social/easi

ENTERPRISE – V O L . 1 4 / N O . 0 2

CONTENTS RAMSEY CARDEY/ SPORTSFILE

R E G U L A R S

06. ENTER HERE A rundown of what’s hot and happening at your next stop.

12. RAIL NEWS F E A T U R E S

16. HOW CONOR McGREGOR CONQUERED THE WORLD Enterprise caught up for a chat with Gavin Fitgerald, director of smash hit documentary Notorious, which details Conor McGregor’s extraordinary rise to superstardom.

20. SAINT’S ALIVE US art-pop star St. Vincent talks about her album of the year contender Masseduction, her hugely ambitious live show, fronting Nirvana,

2 2 . A N U N F O R G E T TA B L E E X P E R I E N C E As U2 look ahead to another blockbuster tour for latest album Songs Of Experience, Olaf Tyarasen caught up with the Irish legends in London.

2 6 . S C R U M M I N G AT T R A C T I O N S After a disappointing 2017, Irish rugby fans are looking ahead to the new season with renewed optimism. John Walshe previews what 2018 has in store as the Six Nations kick-off nears.

30. MURPHY’S AWE The Irish star reflects on another bumper 2017, which saw him star in World War 2 epic Dunkirk and acclaimed political satire The Party.

Up to the minute news from Irish Rail and Translink.

28. BUSINESS PayPal’s European VP, Louise Phelan, on how the company has become one of Ireland’s biggest businesses.

3 8 . T R AV E L An in-depth guide to one of Eastern Europe’s true gems, Dubrovnik.

41. REVIEWS A round-up of the best new movies, books and albums, including the latest Noel Gallagher record and acclaimed thriller Logan Lucky.

4 4 . AT T R A C T I O N S Markets, bars, restaurants and hotels, and the best in shopping both North and South.

ENTERPRISE – EDITOR’S LETTER

CREDITS EDITOR: Máirín Sheehy COMMISSIONING EDITOR: Roisin Dwyer CONTRIBUTORS: Stuart Clark, Roisin Dwyer, Peter McGoran, Roe McDermott, Paul Nolan, Colm O'Hare, Olaf Tyaransen, Aoife Stuart–Madge, josh Cogley, Eamonn Seoige, Mark Keane DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Hot Press, 13 Trinity Street, Dublin 2 DESIGNER: Lili Ferreira ADVERTISING MANAGER: Catherine Madden PUBLISHER: Niall Stokes ENTERPRISE IS PUBLISHED FOR N I R A I LWAY S A N D IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY: Osnovina Ltd 13 Trinity Street, Dublin 2 TELEPHONE: +353 1 2411 500 EMAIL: enterprise@hotpress.ie LETTERS: The Editor, Enterprise Magazine, 13 Trinity St, Dublin 2 PRINTED BY: Boylan’s Print COVER PIC: Ester Lin / Sportsfile

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of N I Railways and Iarnród Eireann. All material © Osnovina 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited

Phoenix Park covered in snow

A WINTER’S TALE We get our share of cold weather in Ireland during the winter months, but in truth our moderate climate is a reason to be cheerful... Suddenly there is a new year in sight. By Christmas, the days will have started to get longer. And after the bells, the hugs, and the beery renditions of Auld Lang Syne, we will be into the phase of post-Xmas austerity, and the inevitable new year’s resolutions of January. Does Spring really begin on February 1st? That hardly seems possible. We generally think of February as the coldest month. And yet March 1st is too late: the snowdrops have already withered by then, or most of them at least! In truth, the rhythm of the seasons doesn’t seem to be in step with the Gregorian calendar. Glass half-empty merchants will tell you that we have four months of winter in Ireland, running from November through to the end of February; and, of course, by that estimation, there are only two months of summer here. Another theory is that Spring begins when love is in the air, around St. Valentine’s Day, in the middle of February. Summer arrives in the middle of May and runs on through to the end of the first two weeks in August. And so on. Everything is just a little bit off-kilter but regular nonetheless. That makes a kind of sense in a place like Ireland, where nothing is ever quite as it seems. Perhaps, however, it is better to think of our season as movable feasts, akin to Easter. Like foreign visitors, they arrive when they feel like it and disappear when they’ve had enough of the Irish weather. Sometimes, we climb out of bed and it is 16° Celsius

– in February. Oh joy of joys! It is, as they say, a warm one. When March turns up, however, it is bitterly cold. The plants and the shrubs become confused, not knowing whether to open out and risk severe frostbite or stay closed and become permanently stuck in their shells. And then there are those days when we can rightly say that all four seasons arrive at once: the sun shines, rain falls, the wind howls and – as evening falls – hailstones that have been carried all the way from the Arctic hammer down, making a metallic clacking sound as they smack off window panes. But I am not complaining. Across the Atlantic from this island is Newfoundland. There the temperature in Winter drops to a precipitous minus-40° Celsius on occasion. The snow piles up until it is six feet deep. There, they really do know what the word ‘Winter’ means. Here, we only know the half of it, if even that. In the end, one suspects that we are better off. Anyone who has lived in a climate where the temperature can rise as high as 40° in the summer months will tell you just how wonderful our moderate climate is. People who know real cold will say the same thing. In a sense, when the seasons start or end is irrelevant. The North Atlantic Drift has ensured that the island is subject to fewer weather extremes than most. Surveying the havoc which has been wreaked elsewhere by malignant weather events over the past few years, for that we should be grateful.

_MAÍRÍNSHEEHY | EDITOR

ENTERPRISE – EDITOR’S LETTER

CREDITS EDITOR: Máirín Sheehy COMMISSIONING EDITOR: Roisin Dwyer CONTRIBUTORS: Stuart Clark, Roisin Dwyer, Peter McGoran, Roe McDermott, Natalie Dwyer, Paul Nolan, Colm O'Hare, Olaf Tyaransen, Aoife Stuart–Madge, Josh Cogley, Eamonn Seoige, Mark Keane, Stephanie Costello DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Hot Press, 13 Trinity Street, Dublin 2 DESIGNER: Lili Ferreira, Eimear O'Connor Ria Pollock ADVERTISING MANAGER: Catherine Madden PUBLISHER: Niall Stokes ENTERPRISE IS PUBLISHED FOR N I R A I LWAY S A N D IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY: Osnovina Ltd 13 Trinity Street, Dublin 2 TELEPHONE: +353 1 2411 500 EMAIL: enterprise@hotpress.ie LETTERS: The Editor, Enterprise Magazine, 13 Trinity St, Dublin 2 PRINTED BY: Boylan’s Print COVER PIC: Ester Lin / Sportsfile While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of N I Railways and Iarnród Eireann. All material © Osnovina 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited

Phoenix Park covered in snow

one. When March turns up, however, it is bitterly cold. The plants and the shrubs become confused, not knowing whether to open out and risk severe frostbite or stay closed and become permanently stuck in their shells. And then there are those days when we can rightly say that all four seasons arrive at once: the sun shines, rain falls, the wind howls and – as evening falls – hailstones that have been carried all the way from the Arctic hammer down, making a metallic clacking sound as they smack off window panes. But I am not complaining. Across the Atlantic from this island is Newfoundland. There the temperature in Winter drops to a precipitous minus-40° Celsius on occasion. The snow piles up until it is six feet deep. There, they really do know what the word ‘Winter’ means. Here, we only know the half of it, if even that. In the end, one suspects that we are better off. Anyone who has lived in a climate where the temperature can rise as high as 40° in the summer months will tell you just how wonderful our moderate climate is. People who know real cold will say the same thing. In a sense, when the seasons start or end is irrelevant. The North Atlantic Drift has ensured that the island is subject to fewer weather extremes than most. Surveying the havoc which has been wreaked elsewhere by malignant weather events over the past few years, for that we should be grateful.

_MAÍRÍNSHEEHY | EDITOR

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by Natalie Dwyer, Stephanie Costello, Peter McGoran

NYF DUBLIN – 3 COUNTDOWN CONCERT Custom House and Various Locations December 31 – January 1

Now in its fourth year, this free festival will start on New Year’s Eve with aerial acrobatics performances and an impressive light show at the iconic Custom House. Following this, there will be a live countdown concert with performances from three of Ireland’s finest acts, Kodaline, Keywest and Hudson Taylor. Meanwhile, on New Year’s Day, there will also be street jugglers, performers and acrobats in various city locations, ensuring that 2018 gets off to the liveliest start possible.

ANDREW WHITTON

ENTER|HERE

THE SCRIPT SSE Arena, February 6, 2018 Since their breakthrough album in 2008, these three Dublin lads have had huge success in Ireland and overseas. Their fifth studio album Freedom Child was released this year, spawning singles ‘Written In The Scars’ and ‘Love Not Lovers’. This album saw the band tackle some political themes in their music for the first time, including the track ‘Divided States Of America’. The band had a sold-out UK and Ireland tour this summer, and tickets for their 2018 dates in the SSE Arena and Dublin’s 3Arena are likely to be snapped up in no time at all.

N E W Y E A R ’S E V E AT T I TA N I C , B E L FAS T Titanic Belfast, December 31, 2017 There’s surely no more cinematic way to ring in the New Year than spending the night dancing before the magnificent Titanic staircase in Belfast. With cocktails served on arrival, followed by a light supper, this years New Year’s Eve Titanic party also includes a midnight piper, live band and DJ to make it a countdown to remember. Tickets are £40 a head and available on Titanic Belfast’s official website, titanicbelfast.com.

THE MERCHANT HOTEL 5 STAR WINTER SALE Overnight stay with luxury breakfast and delicious 3 course evening meal from just

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ENTER|HERE

I M E L D A M AY Waterfront, Belfast, December 20; 3Arena, Dublin December 22 While her haunting performance of Amhrán na bhFiann before the blockbusting Mayweather V McGregor fight certainly brought her talents to a global audience, here in Ireland we've always known that there was something special about Imelda May. New album, LIFE.LOVE.FLESH.BLOOD, saw the Liberties native step away from the highly coiffured and raucous rockabilly sound that made her name, to instead embrace a more intimate and personal blues style. Her current Irish tour will finish up with a massive headline show at Dublin’s 3Arena on December 22.

W I L D L I G H T S AT D U B L I N Z O O Dublin Zoo, November 3 – January 7 Illuminating the night sky, Wild Lights is bringing some extra vibrancy to Dublin Zoo via silk lanterns and beautifully crafted sculptures. Inspired by wildlife, these attractions include a 30-metre long Chinese dragon and porcelain elephant tower. Throughout the display, there will be Chinese performers and crafts, while there will also be lots of warm food and drinks. Tickets are on sale now and must be booked in advance.

DUBLIN BOWIE FESTIVAL Various Locations, January 4-10 Dubliners will once again be Dancing in The Street at this year’s Bowie festival, as 18 different venues join forces to celebrate the life and work of the iconic singer. The festival will stage a wonderfully diverse selection of events: there will be a Bowie brunch; Bowie poster art; a Bowie ball; various Bowie gigs in Whelan’s, Vicar Street and The Grand Social; a Bowie fashion show in The George; and a screening of Labyrinth at The Lighthouse Cinema.

Multi Award Winning Bar fantastic cocktails delicious food A U D I D U B L I N I N T E R N AT I O N A L F I L M F E S T I VA L February 22-March 4 Now in its 16th year, The Audi Dublin International Film Festival (ADIFF) celebrates the very best in Irish and world cinema. Hosted over 11 days in various locations, the festival is for both industry insiders and cinephiles alike. The one to watch this year is The Breadwinner, directed by Cork native Nora Twomey, and produced by none other than Angelina Jolie. The animated adaptation of a popular book by the same name – about an Afghan girl who must pose as a boy to support her family – will be making it’s Irish debut on Thursday February 22 in Cineworld.

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Cocktails IN THE CITY

BOOK A CITY BREAK FOR 2 AT HILTON BELFAST AND ENJOY A COCKTAIL EACH ON US BOOK ONLINE AT HILTON.COM/BELFAST

Hilton Belfast is located across from Belfast Central train station in the heart of downtown, next to the Belfast Waterfront and walking distance to St. George’s Market, Victoria Square, and the Cathedral Quarter, where you’ll find lots of great shopping, food and drinks and local attractions, including the award-winning Titanic Belfast. Book the Cocktails in the City* offer online at hilton.com/belfast to receive a complimentary cocktail each upon arrival. *Terms and conditions apply. See offer details on website.

BRENDAN MORAN

ENTER|HERE

O U T T O L U N C H F E S T I VA L

RDS Arena, January 6 Having been bested by Leinster on home soil back in October, Ulster will be ravenous to cause an upset when they make their way to Dublin at the start of the New Year. And there’s more at stake here than just gaining back some provincial pride; the highly competitive nature of the Pro12 in recent years has meant that these local ties have often proved to be decisive in terms of who tops the table. The battle lines are drawn for one of the games of the season.

KATHRIN BAUMBACH

Various locations, Belfast January 5-28 Bringing a much needed cultural bite to Belfast during the longest, darkest month of the year, Out To Lunch Festival returns this January. Highlights of the festival this year include folk legend Shirley Collins, acclaimed psychedelic twosome Moon Duo, Kraftwerk's Wolfgang Flür and the heady afro-electronic swirl of Ibibio Sound Machine. There’ll also be spoken word from the likes of Bernard McLaverty, and comedy from acclaimed stand-up Alison Spittle. For a full schedule, visit cqaf.com

LEINSTER V ULSTER

GLEN HANSARD Ulster Hall, Belfast, December 15; Vicar Street, Dublin, December 17 & 18 Having only just given an exquisite performance at Dublin’s Vicar Street a few months ago, Glen Hansard now returns to the venue for two pre-Christmas gigs on December 17 & 18. For good measure, Hansard is also heading to Belfast on December 15 for a show at Ulster Hall. Changing things up from his previous intimate solo performances, the singer plans to return with a full live band. The dates precede the upcoming release of Hansard’s new solo collection, Between Two Shores, on January 19. Self-produced in France’s Black Box Studios, the title of the album comes from the Frames man’s “ongoing love of sailing and the sea.”

B E L FAS T C H R I S T M AS M A R K E T Belfast City Hall, November 18 – December 23 The grounds of City Hall are being revamped once again this winter with seasonal crafts and festive lights (and lots of good food!). Market stalls will feature a range of culinary delights, including Dutch pancakes, Italian nougat, Belgian chocolates, French tarts and much more – all on the grounds of Belfast’s most iconic building. There’ll be no shortage of drink either, with two massive beer halls running through the month. There will also be a Santa’s grotto and fairground rides..

ENTER|HERE

TEMPLE BAR TRAD FEST Various locations, January 24 – 28 With an outstanding line-up of traditional music players from Ireland and beyond, the Temple Bar Tradfest will have something for everyone. Highlights include Alan Stivell, a collaboration between David Power and Triona Marshall, and the newly reformed In Tua Nua. The stunning surrounds of City Hall, Rathfarnham Castle, and St Patrick's Cathedral will play host to some of the most exciting pipers, fiddlers and harpists the isle has to offer. Tradfest runs from 24th - 28th January. Tickets are available online via www.tradfest.ie

APRÉS DUBLIN 2017 George’s Dock, November 30 – December 23 Aprés Dublin will light up George’s Dock this winter. Designed as a gigantic, custom built ski lodge, tunes will boom from a gondola DJ booth every night, providing the perfect backdrop for a wide selection of pop-up market stalls. German sausages, mixed food platters and turkey burgers will all be available, along with lots of vegan and vegetarian options. Also pairing nicely will be mulled wine, served from the venue’s three bars. The Aprés village boasts a wide selection of attractions, including a singalong winter choir, carousel, big wheel, Santa’s grotto on weekends, face painting, inflatable snow globes, and a VR ski experience! This free family fun event is open from 12pm-7pm each day, and it’s a sure-fire way to get festive in the lead up to Christmas.

D U B L I N R A C I N G F E S T I VA L Leopardstown, February 3 – 4 The Dublin Racing Festival will combine the finest that the city has to offer over one weekend – including culture, music, fashion, food and jump racing. A weekend of quality races along with an equally impressive prize fund, Dublin Racing Festival will see the best sporting talent from Ireland and Britain fight it out for two massive titles: the Unibet Irish Gold Cup and the BHP Insurance Irish Champion Hurdle.

AN EVENING WITH COL CHRIS HADFIELD – SSE ARENA SSE Arena Belfast, February 15 The world’s most famous, turn-of-the-century astronaut is returning to Belfast with a 90-minute presentation and rarely seen videos from outer space. The talk will be a precursor to the 2018 NI Science Festival, which features over 180 events celebrating the wilder side of science. During Hadfield’s five-month stay on the International Space Station, he became an internet sensation. He tweeted the Queen and William Shatner, talked to school children, strummed his guitar and provided demonstration videos about daily life. His exuberance will make for a highly educational and inspirational talk.

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BE PART OF THE BIGGEST MARATHON EVENT IN NORTHERN IRELAND! Belfast City Marathon moves into its 37th year in 2018 with continued support from title sponsor Deep RiverRock. Launched in 1982 with 3025 entrants, the event takes place on May Day each year, now bringing over 16,500 people to Belfast. Whether you’re a marathon athlete, keen walker, fundraiser, interested in athletics at school or simply love a challenge, there is an event to suit you on Bank Holiday Monday 7th May 2018!

MARATHON RUN AND WHEELCHAIR RACE Challenge yourself up the notorious Antrim Road hill section and experience the tremendous local support and crowds cheering you on throughout your 26.2 miles! MARATHON TEAM RELAY Gather your friends, family and co-workers for teams of ‘two to five’ people with realistic distance options from 3.3 – 7.2 miles.

8 MILE WALK Set a realistic health goal for 2018 in this popular non-competitive event. FUN RUN Ideal for the whole family, from primary school age to mums running with buggies, to those wanting to compete in a short race for fun! So what are you waiting for? Enter now at belfastcitymarathon.com and be part of the biggest marathon event in Northern Ireland!

NORTHERN IRELAND YOUNG PEOPLE SHAPING THE FUTURE OF PUBLIC TRANSPORT

This November Translink held its inaugural Translink Youth Summit in Belfast. Public transport is a vital service for the younger generation to get to school, college or university, meet up with friends, go shopping, access local health services and be more

independent generally. The Translink Youth Summit, delivered in partnership with the Northern Ireland Youth Forum, tackled the big issues in their lives to help shape the future of public transport here. Chris Conway, Translink Group Chief Executive,

said the special event gave young people an excellent platform to have their say: “Our first ever Youth Summit will shine a spotlight on the attitudes and values of young people as we work hard to improve the bus and rail journey experience. Their insights will influence future decision-making and help make public transport your first choice for travel in Northern Ireland. “We’re committed to making public transport attractive for everyone; our ‘Get On Board’ Strategy is focused on taking a collaborative approach to deliver a transformation in public transport, providing integrated services which connect people, enhance the economy and improve the environment. So it’s essential we listen to young people to understand just what we’re getting right and what barriers they may be facing. “The way we develop our transport infrastructure and services will have a major impact on the lives of younger generations so this Summit will be a great way to join together, take action and make progress.” said Chris. If you or someone you know would be interested in joining the Youth Forum and have an opportunity in shaping public transport in Northern Ireland you can find more information at translink.co.uk/Translink-Youth-Forum.

TRAIN|NEWS

A RAIL BREAK FROM THE NORM DILLON OSBORNE @DILTAKESPHOTOS PATRICK BOLGER

TRANSLINK TRAVEL CENTRE OFFERS A BRILLIANTLY CONVENIENT WAY TO ARRANGE YOUR TRIP TO DUBLIN Let Translink Travel Centre take the stress out of booking your next weekend trip to Dublin. It covers every part of your trip, from assigned seating on your chosen Enterprise Service (subject to availability), booking your hotel, and even your theatre tickets if you’re keen to take in a show. Translink’s Keith Smyth says the Travel Centre offers the complete package: “We’re here to take the hassle out of booking your trip. You can spend hours looking for hotels online and reading customer reviews to make sure you’ve made the right choice. With over 25 years’ experience, we can take that hassle out of the equation, by organising your travel and getting you great deals at the top hotels.” Dillon Osborne recently used the Translink Travel Centre for the first time to book a weekend away with his family, “I explained I wanted to take the family to Dublin, chatted about my price range and the area I wanted to stay in and they gave me a few suggestions.” Dillon explained, “Once we agreed on some times and locations they looked after the rest.

We hopped on the Enterprise to Dublin, such a great train, peaceful and relaxing, kids just loved it, eating lunch, playing games and looking out the window. Once in Dublin we made our way through the city to Camden Court, a great hotel and spent our time checking out the shops and donut establishments followed by an entire day at Dublin Zoo. There was one point of contact for travel, accommodation and entertainment, meaning we could relax and enjoy ourselves. As parents it was great knowing that everything was organised meaning our attention was where it should be, with our kids. It was a great reminder how accessible Dublin is by rail.” As Dillon explains, booking through the Translink Travel Centre guarantees the personal touch, so if you have special requirements, or any additional queries surrounding your trip, the team are on hand to help. And don’t forget, with Travel Centre Gift Cards, you can give the gift of hasslefree travel to friends and family too! So why not contact the team on 028 9024 2420 or visit Translink.co.uk/NIRTravel and start planning your next rail break today.

Dublin Zoo

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RAIL CUSTOMERS INVITED TO GET ON BOARD WITH NEW “BABY ON BOARD” BADGE INITIATIVE FOR MUMS-TO-BE! Mums-to-be who commute by rail are to be given a little helping hand to secure their seat on busy rail services, with the launch by Iarnród Éireann of a new “Baby on Board” badge. The badges – available by post from Iarnród Éireann by emailing name and address to babybadges@irishrail.ie – are designed to overcome the awkwardness often felt by pregnant women in having to ask someone to give up their seat on the train. It will also assist other customers to know a Mum-to-be is pregnant as it may not be immediately obvious, and also encourage greater consideration for their needs. It’s the latest campaign from Iarnród Éireann to encourage more considerate behaviour by commuters, following the tongue-in-cheek “Urban Travel Dictionary”, which highlighted the means

STAY SAFE GETTING ON AND OFF THE TRAIN

Customers getting on and off trains are asked to always be aware of the gap between train and platform. Make sure you can safely get on and off, and pay particular attention at stations with curved platforms, including Kent Station in Cork, Tara Street in Dublin, and some of Connolly Station’s platforms. This winter, make sure also to be careful on wet or icy platforms. Never run, cycle or skate on platforms – walk, and make sure you leave enough time to get your train. Together, let’s make rail travel as safe as possible for everyone.

by which some practised commuters avoid acknowledging the needs of others for their seats! “Mobile-Phoney” (pretending to be on a call) and “Snoofing” (spoofing a snooze) and other terms have become part of commuters’ vocabulary as a result. A spokesperson for Iarnród Éireann said, “Commuting by its nature, particularly in the morning and evening peak, is busy with high demand on our services, including DART and Commuter trains. However, it should still be an environment where we all show consideration for others. We hope the Baby on Board badge

will make commuting easier for Mums-to-be, and make it easier for others to offer them assistance. Already we’re seeing strong interest from both pregnant women and indeed their partners, who are emailing us to get badges for their commute.”

ARRIVE AND DRIVE WITH GOCAR Arrive & Drive with Iarnród Éireann & GoCar allows you to combine the comfort, convenience, and punctuality of the train, with the flexibility of a car waiting at your destination. Travellers can cover long distances on the train and then simply hop in the car to get around for meetings or errands. GoCar allows you to book cars online or via the app for as little as an hour, including immediately before your desired departure time, then access the car with your phone or GoCard; the keys are in the car, with fuel and insurance all included. Rates start from Ð8 per hour, with 50KM of driving included on each trip. You can make reservations for anything from one hour to several days. To see the stations included, visit GoCar.ie/Locations Ireland’s leading car sharing company GoCar has undertaken this nationwide expansion following a Ð3 million investment this year. This new partnership with Iarnród Éireann has made it possible for GoCar to expand its service beyond Dublin and Cork and make car sharing available across 18 more counties over the last three months, including Galway, Limerick, Kildare, Kilkenny, Waterford and Wicklow. The new Iarnród Éireann bases will make it easier for commuters in Ireland to combine rail travel with car sharing, and thereby embrace multi-modal, sustainable transport with reduced dependency on private cars. Discussing the new partnership, Iarnród Éireann Marketing Manager Paul O’Kelly said, “At Iarnród Éireann we are delighted to partner with Go Car and believe it is a great benefit to our customers that they can switch travel modes easily at even more of our stations”. Commenting on the national expansion, GoCar Managing Director Colm Brady said, “We are

delighted to announce GoCar’s expansion across Ireland – a significant milestone for the company as we approach our 10 year anniversary next year. Working with Iarnród Éireann and county councillors throughout the country, we have made considerable progress in improving accessibility to car sharing and hope to continue expanding until car sharing is available in as many parts of Ireland as possible.” Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport Shane Ross commented, “Providing accessible transport, not just in cities but also in our towns and rural areas, is of huge importance. I’m delighted that GoCar are expanding their car sharing service beyond the ‘Big Smoke’ cities of Dublin and Cork and into 18 more counties. As well as reducing travel costs, traffic congestion and carbon footprints, the partnership between GoCar and Iarnród Éireann will allow commuters to combine rail and car sharing, enhancing travel experiences and allow for much more social mobility. This is terrific news. I look forward to even more car sharing bases being introduced for the benefit of all Irish travellers in 2018.”

Enjoy a relaxing Railbreak... NIR Travel is Northern Ireland’s leading operator of short break holidays by rail. Our ready-made packages make it easy to take a trip to Dublin; all our breaks are inclusive of rail travel on the Enterprise with an excellent choice of This is just a small selection of the fantastic hotel breaks

...with

For further information visit: www.translink.co.uk/nirtravel and browse online for the hotel and travel dates of your choice, then simply complete the online booking form. Alternatively call NIR Travel direct on 028 9024 2420 or pop in to the Travel Centre, Glengall Street, Belfast.

DUBLIN THEATRE BREAKS

Sound of Music * Legally Blonde ** Matilda the Musical • Wicked • • All breaks include return rail travel from any NIRailways station. • All rates are per person sharing / single room supplements will apply. • All offers are subject to availability and T&Cs and are subject to change. • Any complimentary 1st Plus upgrade will be subject to availability

Theatre Break includes: Grand Canal Hotel Return Rail (1st Plus) Pre-show dinner Overnight with breakfast Show ticket

• £155 midweek / £175 weekend * £145 all dates ** £139 midweek / £189 weekend

MIDWEEK DEALS 2017 Beresford Crowne Plaza North Star Gresham ...with Dinner North Star Royal, Bray Many more available

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HOW CONOR MCGREGOR CONQUERED THE WORLD

(l to r) Notorious Producer Graeme McDonnell, Director Gavin Fitzgerald & Director of Photography Darragh McCarthy with Conor in Vegas

From humble beginnings in Dublin to globe-conquering superstardom, Conor McGregor's extraordinary story is recounted in the fascinating Notorious â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is now the most successful Irish-made documentary ever. Edwin McFee recently caught up for a chat with the film's director, Gavin Fitzgerald.

Conor with Gavin (right) and producer Jamie D'Alton at Notorious' Dublin premiere & zoom with a view

rguably the most famous Irishman of the modern era (sorry Bono!), Dublin-born, multi-time UFC champion Conor McGregor has ruled the recent decade with an iron fist. Adept at mangling opponents with his mitts and mouth, the 29-year-old mixed martial artist and now professional boxer has broken scores of pay per view records and noses during his career. Indeed, the “Cult Of Conor” has grown faster than you can say his famous catchphrase, “You’ll do nothing.” Director Gavin Fitzgerald is a man who has been there (nearly) every step of the way to film McGregor’s rise to fame. His recently released documentary Notorious is the product of the guts of five years of blood, sweat and tears. When we meet him to talk about his aptly named movie, he tells us that he’s both relieved and proud that his hard work has been a hit with fight fans around the world. “It’s been a five-year war to get here,” laughs the film-maker. “Notorious is now the highest grossing Irish documentary of all time, and as it’s my first, I couldn’t have asked for more. Conor, of course, loves hearing numbers, so he’s equally happy.” The seeds for Notorious were sewn in 2012, when Fitzgerald went to S.B.G. (Straight Blast Gym) in Dublin to record the rise of a sport that would enthrall a generation. It didn’t take long for the filmmaker to be mesmerised by a plucky young skinhead from Crumlin. “We started getting into the sport in Ireland when nobody else was covering it. I went up to S.B.G. where John Kavanagh and his team train, so we were filming the bunch of characters up there including Cathal Pendred, Owen Roddy and Paddy

Holohan. A lot of those guys have since made it to UFC. One of them there really grabbed my attention. He was a skinhead back then and a hyper individual who was fighting in local shows like Cage Warriors and making a name for himself. This was of course Conor McGregor and we chatted to him because he had a fight coming up. He’d seen some of the documentary stuff we’d been doing and wanted us to talk to him. He was like ‘Why aren’t you filming me? (laughs)”. Even in those early days, McGregor displayed immense self-belief and made converts out of anyone he spoke to. “I was blown away the first time I talked to Conor,” reflects Fitzgerald. “He has so

“If Conor walked down Grafton Street nowadays, it would close down.” much self-belief it’s insane. He was telling me he was going to do something big and he totally believed it. He was also giving different types of answers to other fighters. He was talking about watching National Geographic, and seeing gorillas in the wild and taking inspiration from that. It’s not an answer you expect to get from a fighter.” For the next five years McGregor dominated the sport, most notably becoming UFC Lightweight and Featherweight champion at the same time. Fitzgerald was there to film this real life Cinderella story – however, as Conor’s

star rose, was there ever a point where he might’ve asked Fitzgerald and crew to abandon the production? “I’ve a really good relationship with Conor,” says the director, “and there was never any problems with me being around. Initially we weren’t sure how Conor would react if he lost a fight. Would he pull the plug? He had the power to do so, but it was quite the opposite. He wanted us to film him when he was feeling vulnerable. He gave us great access and really allowed us into his life.” A captivating depiction of Conor’s journey from the dole queues of Dublin to multi-million dollar fights in Las Vegas, Fitzgerald tells us that fame has changed the fighter’s life forever, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. “Fame has undeniably affected his life. People treat you differently when you’re famous. I remember fans coming up to him all the time and some of them would get so starstruck seeing him that their hand would be shaking going to shake his. That’s an unusual situation for anyone to deal with. It’s changed his life, but he’s built for it because he loves attention. He’s actually quite a private enough guy though. He doesn’t go out all that much, probably because now he can’t without it being a massive operation. “If Conor walked down Grafton Street nowadays, it would close down. Everyone wants a piece of him and that’s because Conor is the best fighter to watch. I don’t think anyone can deny that. They may not like the guy, a lot of people don’t, but everyone wants to watch him because he’s so fun and creative.” One of the reasons why the Cult Of Conor has expanded worldwide is due to his infamous, or should we say Notorious press conferences. Taking inspiration from two-time WWE Hall Of Famer Ric Flair (both sartorially and when it comes to

Left: Conor at Notorious' Dublin premiere with partner Dee Devlin, above: Gavin kicking back with Conor and Gerry Byrne

"He’d be looking to getting a third UFC belt next, which would be unheard of.”

trash talking), McGregor’s mouth can knock you out in a matter of seconds, as anyone who watched his promos for the big money boxing match with Floyd Mayweather will agree. Fitzgerald tells us that it’s all in a day’s work for the Notorious One. “There have been moments where he was worked up after a press conference and there’s been scuffles onstage, but those moments are rare. It’s just like another day to him. Like with the Floyd Mayweather world tour, I figured he might be worked up afterwards because he had so much energy onstage. But then he’s just chilling on the couch as if he’s been through nothing. It’s not like he has all these notes beforehand or a prepared speech either. He literally just ad libs everything. I don’t know where he gets it from.” It hasn’t all been plain sailing for McGregor and his team though and controversy has hurt the Cult Of Conor over the past year. He’s been criticised for making racial and homophobic slurs during some press conferences, and recently had to apologise for storming the cage at a Bellator fight in Dublin and putting his hands on a referee. A lot of people have questioned where McGregor goes from here, so who better to ask than a man who has been with him through thick and thin since 2012. “I hope that he gets back to fighting. There’s been some negative press about

him and I think he needs to rectify that, and the best way to do that is get a fight and do what he does best. He has to realise that there are so many more eyes on him now he’s in the mainstream. He needs to get back to his winning ways.” One of the biggest rumours surrounding Conor McGregor is a possible move to WWE. The flashy world of professional wrestling seems like a perfect fit for the fighter and most would understand why he would trade the all too real threats of the octagon for the storyline-based “sports entertainment” peddled in the squared circle. Does Gavin think Conor will follow in the footsteps of Brock Lesnar, Ken Shamrock and Dan “The Beast” Severn and go to WWE, joining fellow Irish natives Sheamus, Finn Balór, Becky Lynch and Fit Finlay? “God... I wouldn’t be surprised if he made an appearance...” says Fitzgerald cagily. “But yeah, he’ll probably tap into all sorts of things when he isn’t fighting. At the moment he’s in his prime, he’s 29, and he’s looking to cement his legacy as the best fighter in history. To do that he has to keep fighting the best. I’d say he’d be looking to getting a third UFC belt next, which would be unheard of.” Notorious is in cinemas now.

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St.Vincent

SAINT’S ALIVE! US art-pop star St. Vincent has produced one of the albums of the year in the stunning Masseduction. She talks about her hugely ambitious live show, her Irish roots, and fronting Nirvana. INTERVIEW Paul Nolan

ith several brilliant albums already to her credit – including this year’s art-pop extravaganza Masseduction – as well as a unique sense of style and megawatt charisma, 35-year-old Dallas native Annie Clark, aka St. Vincent, is one of her generation’s most important artists. Still, there had been some carping on social media following the UK leg of St. Vincent’s recent tour, with some punters apparently unhappy that Clark performed the show solo. At the singer’s Dublin Olympia gig, during the first song – which found her spotlit and singing from the side of the stage – she did seem more exposed than performers normally are during rock shows. Was that how it felt to her? “No, it didn’t,” replies Clark in her soft Southern tones. “Keep in mind that all the reworked versions of old material, those are tracks that I made with the help of my touring keyboard player; I MIDI mapped the songs and ran them through synths. I did all the programming, the J Dilla drum sounds and so on, and I had so much fun. It was basically remaking an album’s worth of old material. “I was thinking about it, and if you went to a hip-hop show, it’s a different dynamic. Like, I saw Kendrick Lamar at the Barclays Centre, and there wasn’t a band onstage. I mean, I’d already conceived of my show, so it wasn’t as if I was ripping off Kendrick – although he’s a great person to rip off – but at his gig, aside from a dancer or two who came in at random points, it was just him onstage. And it was unclear to me whether there was a live band. I don’t think so; it didn’t sound like it. “But I wasn’t, you know, bummed about it. And there was no one in the crowd going, ‘Wait a minute – where’s the gospel chops drummer?’ I was thinking a lot about, ‘What do you want when you go see a show? What are you hoping to see?’” As Annie has alluded to, the first half of her current show is comprised of a mini-greatest hits set, of which her zeitgeist defining single ‘Digital Witness’ (“What’s the point in even sleeping/If I can’t show it?”) remains a huge highlight. Showing her grasp of the art of live performance, a curtain is gradually drawn back to reveal a big screen at the back of the stage, which shows a trippy array of

cool visuals during the second half – which consists of Masseduction played it in its entirety. Why has she chosen to play the whole album? “It’s my live Lemonade,” says Clark. “It’s early on, the record’s only been out a week. Some people haven’t even heard it; maybe they’ve only heard a couple of songs, maybe they haven’t heard anything. Why not have their introduction to the record be this bonkers multi-media experience?” During the gig, St. Vincent also talked warmly about her roots in Ireland, saying that perhaps for the first time, it really made her feel like she belonged somewhere (needless to say, we all cheered raucously). Apparently, a recent DNA test revealed the singer to be of 80 percent Irish stock. “It’s the truth,” she beams. “I got the results a few months ago and I was so excited. I was hoping for a little bit of sub-Saharan Africa, but no luck! Just Jewish and Irish, that’s what I am. In terms of whereabouts in Ireland, they didn’t get that far into it – I think you have to pay extra for that!” St. Vincent really ascended to a new level in 2014, when was one of four women handpicked by the surviving members of Nirvana to front the group for their induction into the Rock And Roll Hall Of Fame. It was one of the highlights of an incredible year that also saw her appear on iconic US TV show Saturday Night Live. However, Clark has also said it was a stressful time too. “I mean, fronting the most seminal punk band of all time?” asks Annie rhetorically. “It’s a little stressful. I would also just say that along with the incredible honour it was to be asked, it’s also so deeply sad. Because everybody, myself included, just wishes that Kurt was there doing that. So it’s hard to be gleeful exactly.” Turning to other iconic artists, she is also a massive David Bowie fan. (“I mean, who isn’t?” she notes). Is it true that she listens to one song of his a day? “At a certain time, yeah,” affirms Annie. “I remember there was a certain period when for whatever reason, I was going back and forth to Berlin a lot. I was doing promo and press and so on, and I was listening to the second half of Low pretty much every day. It's an incredible album. "

SAM JONES

ARE U EXPERIENCED? Shortly before playing a special MTV show in iconic Trafalgar Square, EDGE and ADAM CLAYTON of Dublin foursome U2 spoke to us about their long-awaited new album, Songs of Experience. Interview OLAF TYARANSEN

t’s the afternoon of November 11, 2017, and Enterprise is one of a 15-strong contingent of Irish journalists and radio DJs assembled in the basement of the Trafalgar Hotel in central London for a press conference with one of the biggest bands in the world. Well, half of them anyway… It’s less than three weeks away from the release of U2’s long-awaited fourteenth studio album, Songs Of Experience. Later this evening the four Dubliners will be playing a special show in Trafalgar Square, highlights of which will be broadcast on MTV tomorrow night when Adam, Edge, Larry and Bono receive a long overdue Global Icon Award at the EMAs. Just before the playback of the album begins, their publicist Lindsey Holmes announces that it will be only Edge and Adam joining us. Larry rarely does these things anyway, but Bono apparently “needs to rest his voice before the gig.” Given the recent ‘Paradise Papers’ revelations, it’s far more likely that the singer would simply rather avoid being quizzed about his financial affairs by a roomful of headline-hungry Irish journalists. And who could blame him? Edge and Adam seem in cheerful form when they finally arrive. The guitarist and bassist politely shake hands with everyone in the room before seating themselves on a lengthy couch. Edge – who’s wearing an Armistice Day poppy badge on his lapel – apologises in advance for any lax answers he might give. “My head is kind of spinning, because we’ve been doing so many different things. Travelling so much. I mean, all good stuff. We just left South America. Back to LA for a while.

Now we’re here and it’s going from The Joshua Tree Tour, which was an amazing experience, to now the new album, so it’s kinda full-on.” Press conferences are never easy, especially with so many different agendas, but the pair are graceful throughout. Adam laughs when congratulated on the recent birth of his second child. “Well, I came to it late,” the 57-year-old explains, “but I’m sure you’ve all been through it. I can thoroughly recommend it. Not too many sleepless nights. It’s not too bad.” He smiles, “We have help.”

LOVE LETTERS For the most part, Edge does the talking. The cover of Songs Of Innocence featured a striking shot of Larry and his son Elvis. Keeping with the family theme, the cover of Songs Of Experience has an Anton Corbjin photograph of Edge’s teenage daughter Sian and Bono’s teenage son Eli holding hands. “Covers are hard,” Edge muses. “You can kind of stick the band on the cover and that sometimes will do it, but this album is a complicated record. Thematically, it’s both extremely personal and quite political and both very internal and also very universal. And it’s very difficult to find an image or an idea. “So we felt, let’s take it away from us as a band. Let’s just try and find some kind of simple, iconic, symbolic cover that tried to bring it together in a very succinct way. Through our career, we’ve always used friends or others to take on that iconic, symbolic role. And it seemed like on the last cover we had Larry and Elvis. So it made sense that we kind of continued that theme into this cover.

It’s the sense of life just beginning. Two teenagers.” The Experience + Innocence Tour will kick off in Tulsa, Oklahoma, on May 2, 2018. Needless to say, they’re looking forward to finally getting to play these new songs live. “We’re very excited about playing live,” says Edge. “I think we’ve been in rehearsal. Obviously, we’re starting to gear up to play them and on our first outing, I think they sound really strong. There’s something about a great song, you know – it’s very durable, it doesn’t rely on very specific arrangements. If you get it so that it really holds together, it gives you a lot more leeway. Sometimes, the tunes that are production reliant, you almost have to recreate the recorded version to make it work. In this case, I think these songs are going to just be fun to play.” Adam adds: “Because the album got pushed out to this end of the year, it gave us the licence to do The Joshua Tree shows, so we kind of had this moment where we went, ‘Oh! We could celebrate The Joshua Tree.’ Originally we thought we’d do maybe ten shows as a commemoration of it, but it just grew and grew. And that’s how we ended up coming through the summer with The Joshua Tree Tour.” While most of the new songs are quite personal, love letters addressed to Bono’s family and friends, there are a couple of political tracks, too. ‘American Soul’, in particular, takes a potshot at Trump’s America. “I think we felt that, to ignore it would just be weird,” Edge explains. “Knowing that these are the things that we care deeply about, I think people would expect us to step forward to a degree.

U2 Going underground: U2 in London Obviously democracy sometimes throws up surprise results and you gotta respect the result when it goes for you as well as when it goes against you. But I think in terms of values and ideals, we’re different, so fundamentally, from what President Trump is putting forward. And the sentiments that he’s putting out there, and who he’s looking to get support from, you know – it’s fear politics of the most cynical type. “And we don’t necessarily want to get wrapped up in what you might think, ‘the resistance’ to his presidency, at all,” he continues. “What we want to do is just keep moving forward with the issues that we care about. And keep the agenda that we believe we will all be getting back to, to hopefully moving forward. And I think, being inspired by what some of the governors and mayors in the USA did in response to him, taking America out. The powers, they just don’t care what the president says or thinks. So they’re moving forward, and I think that’s positive. We feel okay to take him on in certain levels, but we’re really just gonna keep on ploughing forward with what we really believe in.”

SERIOUS SCARE Given the album’s title, what’s been the hardest experience U2 have collectively gone through over the years? “Well, I think challenges are a big part of anything that you really care about,” he says. “And I think that the relationships within the band are something that’s sustained us. But they are at times quite hard to maintain. So the band itself is, in some ways, our greatest work. And our most challenging work.”

Does it get heavier being in U2, the longer you’re still creating music? “I think it does actually,” the guitarist admits. “And that’s understandable. If you think about bands like they’re street gangs. You know, you get together at 18, and you decide to go off and do this thing. It involves a complete commitment from everyone and total unity and regard for one another. And a lot of humility on an individual basis as you go forward. That’s, dare I say… quite an unnatural thing to be involved with when you’re getting into your forties and fifties. We’ve been able to pull it off, but even we understand how extraordinary it is.” Neither man is willing to go into details about Bono’s health scare last year, except to comment on how it affected his lyrics. “Well, Bono has spoken about his brush with mortality, which he is not going into too many details about,” says Edge. “It was a fairly serious scare he had and it did affect his writing for this record. He ended up taking Brendan Kennelly’s advice to write as if he was already dead. A lot of these songs turned into letters to the people he cares most about. Some were his and our children. Some were the U2 fans. Ali obviously features. And a lot directed to America and the current political situation globally. He found himself thinking, ‘If this is the last song I’m gonna write, what do I want to say?’” What is it that happens when you guys go, ‘Yes, this is it – this is a hit!’? Edge laughs: “We ask ourselves the same question! We grew up in a particular moment in music where things were being reinvented, and we therefore developed a very specific

“It was a fairly serious scare he had and it did affect his writing for this record. He ended up taking Brendan Kennelly’s advice to write as if he was already dead.” approach to playing and writing. which has not really changed that much. We keep trying to update and stay conversant with what’s going on culturally, but essentially we are still the same guys who started in the early ‘80s. We seem to have this ability to experiment as much as we want, but by the time we’ve all done our thing, it always seems to sound like us.” You’ll be starting the next tour in arenas. Will U2 be playing Ireland? “We are definitely going to be coming home,” he confirms. “We are looking at different venue options. Of course the production is kind of big, so we’re weighing up all of our options there. But definitely, you’ll be seeing us in Ireland.”

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RAMSEY CARDY (SPORTSFILE)

Rugby Preview

Jacob Stockdale scores a try in the Guinness series match against Argentina.

SAM BARNES (SPORTSFILE)

Bundee Aki during the Guinness series match against Argentina.

RAMSEY CARDY (SPORTSFILE)

Joey Carbery in action against Fiji.

ENTERPRISE

SPORT

SCRUMMING ATTRACTIONS The 2017 Six Nations proved disappointing, but after an encouraging showing in the Autumn Series, the Irish rugby team is straining at the leash for the 2018 campaign. John Walshe previews what the year has in store for the national side, and also assesses the outlook for the provincial teams.

he Dublin-Belfast route will be a busy one for rugby players next year, as a host of talented young Ulstermen travel south to join up with the national team, joining more experienced internationals like veteran captain Rory Best, lock Iain Henderson, centre Jared Payne, and wing Andrew Trimble. The likes of Jacob Stockdale, Rob Herring, Stuart McCloskey and Kieran Treadwell can expect to add to their haul of caps in 2018. Indeed, Irish rugby fans can approach 2018 with a mood of cautious optimism after a mixed 2017. The Six Nations promised much but ultimately proved disappointing, yet the summer tour and autumn internationals offered oval ball aficionados more reasons to be cheerful. Previously untouchable head coach Joe Schmidt found himself the subject of considerable criticism in the wake of the Six Nations, the Kiwi derided in some quarters for what was seen as a conservative game-plan. Some of the comments must have stung, as the free-running, off-loading team of the autumn internationals looked a world away from the kickand-rush tactics of the spring. The summer tour to USA and Japan saw a very different looking Irish squad. With 11 of our best players on Lions duty in New Zealand, the side still carved out three resounding victories (albeit over lesser quality opposition), with a host of players winning their first caps and getting a taste of international rugby. A similar number of players, meanwhile, were blooded in the autumn victories against South Africa, Fiji and Argentina. Particularly notable were Leinster lock James Ryan, who made his full Ireland debut before featuring for his province, and Ulster wing Jacob Stockdale, who looks born to play the oval ball game at this level. Other highlights included the rehabilitation of Ulster’s Paddy Jackson as an international out-half, the ease with which Chris Farrell slotted in at centre, particularly against Argentina, and the blossoming of Leinster playmaker Joey Carbery, whose wonderful swerve and pass against Fiji was a moment of magic that saw Munster wing, Darren Sweetnam, touch down in the corner. Carberry is the most mercurial of talents, tipped by none other than former Lions and Kiwis coach Graham Henry as a future world star. To these eyes, he resembles an Irish Freddie Michalak, capable of turning a game in a heartbeat, but also liable to take some outrageous gambles that

result in easy turnover tries for the opposition. With Johnny Sexton cemented in place as Leinster fly-half, many commentators believe that if Carberry is to achieve his true potential as a number 10, he may have to leave his home province to get the requisite number of games in this key position. I’m sure the Leinster management team will be understandably reluctant to allow that to happen – perhaps a loan system similar to that in soccer could provide the perfect solution. Injuries to key players have cost Ireland dearly in the past, so a nation will still watch anxiously every time Sexton or Murray is put to the floor. But the good news ahead of the 2018 season – and less than two years from the next World Cup – is that the Irish squad has more depth than ever before: we probably have two entire front rows of genuine world class, and an embarrassment of riches in the back row. The likes of Munster’s Scannell brothers may be ones for the future, but Andrew Conway has given himself a massive chance of being a first choice wing for the new season, as has Ulster’s Stockdale, while Leinster’s Jack Conan has grown to become a number 8 of real quality in a position long dominated by Jamie Heaslip. The fact that Connacht centre and human wrecking ball Bundee Aki has qualified to play for Ireland should be something to be celebrated and not disparaged: Aki didn’t invent the residency rule and the IRFU would be incredibly stupid if they didn’t make use of it as other ‘home’ nations have done. One big elephant in the room is the exclusion of Simon Zebo from the autumn internationals, because the versatile Munster back announced his plans to join Parisian club Racing 92 at the end of the season. One would presume that Zebo will be similarly omitted from Ireland’s Six Nations squad, despite the fact that he is still plying his trade with Munster. Nobody wants to see an exodus of this country’s top talent to the mega-rich and gruelling Top 14, but the Zebo decision has the look of an association cutting off its nose to spite its face. On a brighter note, the departure of Ronan O’Gara from Racing 92, where he was defence coach, to become assistant coach at Super Rugby champions, Crusaders, is a brilliant move and surely one that will fast-track the former Munster and Ireland out-half on the road to head coach. One wouldn’t bet against the honest,

intelligent O’Gara ultimately taking over his native Munster and his national team in the future.

THE PROVINCIAL OUTLOOK LEINSTER After a disappointing 2016-17 campaign, Leinster look back on track in the current season, with the addition of experienced Australian Scott Fardy already proving a shrewd move. The Leinster coaching dream team of Leo Cullen and Stuart Lancaster seems to have clicked, and their blend of youth and experience could see the province lift some silverware after a couple of barren seasons.

ULSTER The start of the 2017-18 season has been the archetypal ‘game of two halves’ for Ulster. Currently flying high in the Pro 14, Les Kiss’s charges have been blowing hot and cold in the European Rugby Champions Cup, a super victory over Wasps followed by a comprehensive defeat to La Rochelle. At the time of going to press, their back-to-back fixtures against Harlequins could define Ulster’s season.

CONNACHT The heady days of becoming Pro 12 champions in 2016 look a long way in the past for a Connacht side struggling to recapture their best form. The departure of head coach Pat Lam for Bristol hasn’t helped, but if Kieran Keane can hold on to the province’s best players, including Bundee Aki, Kieran Marmion and Ultan Dillane, Connacht could yet make headway in both the Pro 14 and the EU Challenge Cup.

MUNSTER Munster were arguably the most improved of the Irish provinces in 2017. Following the heart-breaking death of head coach Anthony Foley, the province had an emotional, thrilling yet ultimately trophy-less 2017. The departure of Rassie Erasmus caused a bit of a stir, but in former South Africa forwards coach, Johann van Graan, they have an able replacement. They have a host of talented players coming through, including the Scannell brothers, although the fact that none of their three out-halves, Keatley, Hanrahan and Bleyendaal, have really stood out, could ultimately hamper their chances of lifting silverware.

Paying Your Way Since setting up operations in Ireland in 2003, PayPal has grown to become one of Ireland’s biggest businesses. Louise Phelan, VP of the company in Europe, the Middle East and Africa, talks to us about the benefits of working in Ireland, standing up for diversity, and making business work. Interview Peter McGoran

aving assumed responsibility for PayPal operations in over 100 countries across the globe, Louise Phelan is perhaps one of the country’s most in-demand senior managers. So Enterprise is understandably delighted to get the chance to talk with a woman who has presided over PayPal’s incredible growth in Ireland – and beyond – for the past 11 years, and to hear about her vision for its continued evolution. “When it first started operating in Dublin in 2003,” says Louise, “PayPal quickly discovered that it could be a base that would support markets throughout Europe. We firstly decided to support the English market, but from there it grew to the entire

continent. We grew out the business. And what we realised about Ireland was that we had huge talent here in the country, and we had a great location to bring in talented employees from other countries. A corollary of that was that we could employ people who spoke more than one language. “So our task as a growing business was, how do we get the best people working for us? People don’t just come for a job, they want to go somewhere they can see there’ll be opportunities, and where they’ll be happy in the place they work. So not only were we advertising jobs, we were also offering people the prospect of career development and learning if they came

with us.” This is an essential part of PayPal’s approach to business. While aiming to offer the most secure, convenient service to people – after all, theirs is a business model that requires trust and quality assurance in order to continue its longstanding reputation – they also aim to hire the right people and ensure that they have a workforce which is able to reach out to consumers and merchants in all the different countries in which they operate. For Louise, diversity is key. “It’s not just about hiring people from every type of background and then giving them an opportunity to work for us while speak their own language,” says Louise.

ENTERPRISE

BUSINESS

TAKING A STAND PayPal have been vocal about their values for years. Here’s three occasions when they’ve stood up for equality.

SIGNING DIVERSITY CHARTER “What we offer is an opportunity to learn. PayPal’s drive is to get the best employees, but also to also give them training and education with us. We want to set them up for success. We provide health insurance, we provide transport, and we provide courses where they can constantly improve their career prospects. We make sure that we’re doing our utmost to make an employee’s life experiences easier, not just their job experiences.” While encouraging diversity in the workplace might be good business for PayPal, Louise stresses that this has always been a part of the business’ core philosophy. “We signed the European Commission’s Diversity Charter last year, first and foremost because we believe in it,” she affirms. “We support anyone, no matter what their personal background is, or their gender, or their ethnicity. The most important thing to remember, for PayPal, is that our customers are of all different backgrounds, so we want to map our PayPal employees to reflect the customers that they’ll be dealing with on a daily basis.” What are Louise’s future plans for the business? “We’re educating all the time,” she replies. “Not just our employees, but ourselves. We’re also looking at how that factors into an employee’s

sense of wellness, inside and outside the workplace. Years ago, you turned up to work, did your shift and you might not have engaged with your employer at all. Now, companies are looking into wellness so that we’re supporting our employees. That’s especially important for a lot of these people who have travelled from another country to live here. We don’t want them to be left out there alone. A happy employee is what we want, because at the end of the day – people work with people. Ultimately people will trust your business if they trust the people who work there.” While Louise and her team have gone to great lengths to improve the lives of their employees, she also maintains that PayPal is consistently working to be a reliable service in times of industry changes. “We want consumers to think of PayPal as being a reliable ‘one stop shop’. We want them to think that PayPal is simple, easy and secure. Years ago, we used to say that cash is king – but that’s not the case anymore. If you think about the generation that’s coming through, credit cards and online spending are the norm for them, so we need to make sure we are providing them with a means of spending that has security and convenience at the heart of it.”

In June 2016, PayPal signed the Diversity Charter Ireland as part of Diversity Inclusion Week. The Charter – a seven-point plan – is supported by the European Commission and reflects PayPal’s commitment to prevent discrimination and promote equality in the organisation.

SUPPORTING SAME-SEX MARRIAGE Having always been heavily supportive of Pride Week in Ireland, it came as a surprise to no one that senior members of PayPal, including Louise Phelan, were outspoken in their support of same-sex marriage in Ireland. In more recent months, PayPal helped fund the marriage equality campaign in Australia, launching a $50,000 campaign to support a ‘yes’ vote on legalising same-sex marriage.

WITHDRAWING EXPANSION IN NORTH CAROLINA When legislation was enacted in North Carolina which invalidated protections of the rights of LGBT citizens in 2016, PayPal refused to move forward with a planned expansion in the area, saying that the State’s laws affected the company’s “deepest values and our strong belief that every person has the right to be treated equally, and with dignity and respect.”

Cillian Murphy

MURPHY’S AWE One of Ireland’s biggest screen stars, Cillian Murphy says he feels huge gratitude for his part in ongoing TV hit Peaky Blinders. But it’s just one of the many strings to his bow, as the past 12 months have seen him feature in a succession of acclaimed films, including Dunkirk and The Party. He discusses another hugely successful year with Roe McDermott.

illian Murphy is one of those unique figures; an attractive actor who has been in both critically acclaimed indie films and huge box-office successes – but is still definitely an actor, not a movie star. Some of this distinction comes from his commitment to maintaining a career in theatre, but much of it arises from his publicity-shy personality. Murphy, now 40, is rarely seen at awards shows and does a minimal amount of interviews, never appearing truly comfortable with the camera unless he’s in character. He has previously noted how much he dislikes the increasingly “dumbed-down” nature of interviews, commenting that “the reductive nature nowadays of most journalism is very frustrating.” It’s an understandable complaint – in an era where most press interviews are between four and 15 minutes, it’s difficult to explore any issue in-depth. But Murphy is also aware that brevity has its uses. When asked about his views on politics, fatherhood or even just his current passions, he can neatly avoid giving too much away by claiming, “Oh, there’s too much to say in such a short interview.” Luckily, he’s happy to talk about his work, because he’s had some major projects out this year. Murphy’s fondness for diverse roles was again on display, as he starred in the crime comedy caper Free Fire, Christopher Nolan’s epic war drama Dunkirk, and Sally Potter’s satirical drawing-room comedy, The Party – all while continuing to star as trouble magnet Thomas Shelby in the hit TV series Peaky Blinders. The show has become a huge success, and Murphy is as enthusiastic about it as the fans. “I just feel so lucky,” he says. “I’ve got to play this character for four series now. But it’s like everything else – it comes back to good writing. You can’t dress something up, you know? It’s either good or it’s not, and this is great on the page. So our job is just to do justice to that, through the casting and direction. For me, the medium is always secondary to the story. I remember reading those first two episodes and thinking it wasn’t like anything I’d ever read before, certainly not for British and Irish telly, it was very different.” Peaky Blinders does feel like it is reaching for the standard of American shows that commonly define The Golden Era of Television; brilliantly written dark dramas that frequently centre around a troubled anti-hero. Think The

Sopranos, Mad Men, Breaking Bad. Indeed, watching the misadventures of Tommy Shelby, the PTSD-suffering leader of the Birmingham crime gang, is as tense and stressful as watching Tony Soprano, Don Draper or Walter White slowly self-destruct. How is it for Murphy to inhabit such an intense character? “It is exhausting, in the best way possible!” he laughs. “It consumes your life, and you kind of have to cancel reality and just dive in, head first. But I love that. It takes me a while to get into that frame of mind – and it takes me a while to get out of it. But I love that, I love disappearing into a character and a project like that for four or five months.” Tommy Shelby isn’t the only dark and traumatised character Murphy has had to play this year. He starred in Christopher Nolan’s dramatic, action-fuelled and emotionally harrowing Dunkirk alongside Tom Hardy, Mark Rylance, Kenneth Branagh, and our own Barry Keoghan (Love/Hate, Killing Of A Sacred Deer). Murphy plays a man known only as the Shivering Soldier, who is picked up by a civilian boat and has no intention of returning to the hell he’s just barely escaped. “I think my character is representative of something experienced by thousands and thousands of soldiers,” reflects the actor. “And that’s the profound emotional and psychological toll that war can have on the individual. We first meet him when he is picked up by the Moonstone, which is one of the civilian ships crossing the English Channel to evacuate soldiers at Dunkirk. He’s someone who has survived an experience that is mind-alteringly horrific, only to be told, ‘Actually, we’re just heading back into it.’” A hallmark of Christopher Nolan’s films is his preference for capturing the action in-camera, and eschewing digital effects and CGI as much as possible. Adding to the authenticity, the filmmakers, cast and crew filmed a portion of Dunkirk on the actual beach and at the exact same time of year that the miraculous evacuation happened. Murphy’s scenes were even shot out on the water aboard the actual ship, the Moonstone. The actor has worked with Nolan on four other films – Inception, Batman Begins, The Dark Knight and The Dark Knight Rises – and finds the director’s approach elevates his own performance. “When you’re in the environment and things are happening for real, it leads to a more honest, truthful portrayal of your character’s journey,”

satirical dramedy sees a dinner party of British elites get out of hand. The characters’ chronic insincerity may be read as an allegory for British politics, as everyone expresses lofty ideals – but acts with self-serving cynicism. Murphy plays a banker, and was excited both by the opportunity to act with long-time heroes Timothy Spall and "A film about courage and survival": Cillian Murphy in Dunkirk Kristen Scott Thomas, and the wickedly funny script. says Murphy. “I think Chris’s determination to “I’m very interested in films that are capture as much of the action in-camera as entertaining and funny but also have intelligent possible is why his films have such intensity. ideas and ask questions,” he says. “Sally On Inception, I remember shooting on the side of Potter, the director, smuggled those questions a mountain in a snowstorm, and Chris continued in brilliantly, questions about society, about to shoot even when it became absolute white-out the gap between what people may want conditions. If you want to get the most authentic intellectually and what they want instinctively. reactions, or the most truthful responses from My character represents financial institutions actors, throw them into the real sea or fly real that are crumbling, and Kristen represents the Spitfire airplanes over them. The audience will feel the reality of that – the actors certainly do.” Murphy’s research went further than embracing the physical and emotional challenges on set. The Cork native reveals he knew little about Dunkirk when he took the role, but through his research came to understand not just the political relevance of the event, but the cultural and emotional impact it had on Britain. “Ireland was a neutral country during World War II, so my understanding was quite limited until I learned more about it through research,” he admits. “It truly was an incredible moment in World War II, and in British history as a whole. It was the result of a wartime offensive that went terribly wrong, leaving hundreds of thousands of soldiers stranded on the coast of France. But it was redeemed by the will and determination of the people to bring these boys home. That’s the ‘Miracle at Dunkirk’. The scope of this immense evacuation, under extreme duress and despite impossible odds, speaks to both the unity of a nation and the sacrifice and heroism of the individual soldiers and civilians. They came together and ultimately were able to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat.” At such a divisive time, many people may prefer to go to the cinema for escapism rather than gritty and devastating war films, but Murphy believes that the bravery, perseverance and unity portrayed in Dunkirk will prove inspiring. “I hope the film takes people on an exciting, visceral journey into this experience, but that they’re ultimately moved by the human story that anchors it all. At its heart, it’s a film about courage and survival and the triumph of the human spirit. That might sound trite, but I think in this case it actually applies. That is what the real Dunkirk evacuation represents, and I think that spirit is present in every frame.” Even when Murphy does do raucous comedies, they always have a deeper political and societal meaning, a trait perfectly illustrated by his role in Sally Potter’s The Party. The critically acclaimed

"If you want to get the most authentic reactions, or the most truthful responses from actors, throw them into the real sea or fly real Spitfire airplanes over them." Labour Party and what state that’s in. It’s not polemical or didactic, it’s more that if you find it entertaining, it may also spark a conversation with your friends after.” Though Murphy is known among mainstream audiences for playing villainous characters in Inception, The Dark Knight trilogy and Red Eye, he has always loved comedy, bringing out his playful side in films like Intermission and Breakfast On Pluto. He reveals he loved the absurdity of his character, who’s a sweaty mess for the entire film. “He's in a heightened state emotionally, which is great fun to play,” he smiles. “It gives you licence to take him to a slightly different level. For me to act in a physical comedy was great fun. So much of the work you do onscreen is about stillness and subtlety and the close-up - it’s very worthwhile and some of my favourite actors do that beautifully. But it’s also great fun to just let loose physically. But no, you can’t stay in it and walk around in the character like that all the time – you’d collapse!” The Party’s cast and crew were a nationally and ethnically diverse group, and the film’s themes

of divisive British politics really hit hard during filming, when Brexit unexpectedly passed. “Yeah, we went to bed thinking it would be one result and woke up to a shock,” Murphy remembers. “All the actors on set would be real political animals, everyone had been following the whole campaign during it, so it was felt deeply. Sally wisely didn’t try to shoehorn it into the script after, because the film already implicitly speaks of how people were feeling at the time, and the mood and unease and paranoia that was being experienced in Britain.” Having lived in London for 14 years, Murphy has just moved back to Dublin with his wife and two sons, who are now aged eleven and nine. “It was just time,” he muses. “It’s the Irish narrative in a way – you do a stint away and then you come home. And we’re very happy here – the kids are Irish, their grandparents are here, all these basic but important reasons always draw you back to where you come from. And I’ve said it before – Irish people are sound! I love Irish people. And I love that there’s only four million on the island. At a certain time in your life, you just want some space.” Murphy’s return is being marked by a collaboration with Irish writer and director Mark O’Rowe on The Delinquent Season, which also stars Sherlock Holmes and Spectre star Andrew Scott, another Irish talent. The film is a tense drama which revolves around two Dublin couples who appear to live in marital bliss, until an altercation between one couple occurs and cracks begin to appear in both of these seemingly steady marriages. O’Rowe is known for having written the screenplays for Intermission, Broken, and Perrier’s Bounty – all three of which starred Murphy. The Delinquent Season is O’Rowe’s feature directorial debut, and Murphy was thrilled to join the cast. “I’ve known Mark for many years now, but I never actually worked with him as a director before,” says Murphy, “so this was the first time we were on-set together. I’m a huge fan and I think he’s one of our most important writers. I think this film will be quite raw and searing and will get people talking. I hope!” Getting to film in Ireland was a nice luxury for the actor, as he didn’t have to travel and be away from his two sons. He reveals that despite the perceived glamour of his job, his sons have a very practical attitude towards it, and aren’t even that impressed that their dad was in the Batman movies. “They’re very underwhelmed by the whole thing – as they should be, I wouldn’t want them any other way. It’s a job, and they understand that.” He hopes their cool-headedness will serve them well as they become teenagers, remarking that. “It’s such a different time, when I was their age I couldn’t even conceive of the things they have to deal with now.” When asked about his particular concerns, however, discussing his own childhood or that of his kids is “far too complicated for the time we have.” Some borders will always remain carefully guarded. Dunkirk will be available on DVD from December 17, and The Party is released on DVD on February 19. The Delinquent Season will be in cinemas in Spring 2018.

Fashion

The Headline Act South Korean rap star CHANYEOL discusses his uber-stylish collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger, part of the labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hot new Headliners range. BY ROE MCDERMOTT

Fashion

ne for the boys, this season the classic allAmerican brand Tommy Hilfiger is bringing some modern edge to its catwalks, by collaborating with cutting-edge musicians for its latest collection, suitably called Headliners. The Headliners collection and online campaign is inspired by Hilfiger’s love of rock and roll, and features collaborations with acts from America, Europe and Asia Pacific – all celebrating their individuality and inspirations. Leading the way are US groove technicians The Chainsmokers, while also on-board are Californian R&B duo THEY, Dutch DJ and producer Jarreau Vandal, and South Korean singer Chanyeol. The online campaign, visible at tommy.com/headliners, features interviews with each artist, who reveal

their influences, relationship with music, and unique fashion style. They also share their favourite and most inspirational songs on Spotify playlists. Park Chan-yeol, known to fans as Chanyeol, is a South Korean rapper, singer, songwriter and actor, who shot to international fame as a member of the South Korean-Chinese boy group EXO. Chanyeol cites Eminem, Jason Mraz, Muse, Nirvana and X-Japan as major influences, and he has written many of the raps used in EXO’s songs, including ‘Lightsaber’, their promo single for Star Wars: The Force Awakens. To add to his many talents, Chanyeol also studios interior design, and has a love of simple, timeless luxury – both in his spaces and his style. “I don’t have an eclectic fashion sense,” he says. “I prefer a simple, relaxed approach: wearing comfortable clothes and creating music that is comfortable and easy.”

Fashion

“I prefer a simple, relaxed approach: wearing comfortable clothes and creating music that is comfortable and easy.” Chanyeol’s own personal interpretation of Tommy Hilfiger’s Headliners collection evokes just that. He is drawn to modern, preppy styles that never go out of fashion – cable-knit sweaters over a shirt and tie, and polo necks under long classic wool coats. But he does bring a bit of hiphop edge to his ensembles occasionally, donning oversized puffer jackets and always sporting a pair of classic white sneakers. His style is personal yet instantly relatable – just like his music. “Without any real intention to make happy music, I just naturally make music with a lot of happiness in it!” he laughs. “I want my album to identify with and tell the story of a person’s life. I want to tell real experiences through my music.” Chanyeol is greatly appreciative of Tommy Hilfiger’s longstanding connection to music, and how the Headliners collection embraces diversity of culture and nationality – it was his family’s love of diverse music that inspired him to

pursue his passion. “My parents loved music,” he enthuses. “My father loved playing the guitar and he listened to rock songs and folk songs. My mother also loved music and she would listen to a lot of old French songs.” For Chanyeol, joining EXO has allowed him to experience and be inspired by a range of musical and fashion styles, which push him to evolve and improve – while also remaining true to his individuality. “For me,” he says, “it is very important for musicians to create new music and show their unique characteristics.” Friends and followers of the brand are invited to join the conversation on social media using #TommyHilfiger and @TommyHilfiger. You can view the videos, Spotify playlist, and latest TOMMY HILFIGER collections at tommy. com/headliners.

A FOOD AWAKENING Stuart Clark brings you a seasonal round-up of what's good to eat and drink!

Tree’s Company Celebrated chef and restaurateur Dylan McGrath has opened Bonsai Bar, a new concept in high-end Japanese-influenced food and drink, which is to be found between his Taste At Bonsai and STONE at Rustic eateries at First Floor, 17 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2. Along with an unrivalled list of Japanese whiskeys, beers and sake, you’ll find bespoke cocktails – the Plum & Marzipan Sour is outrageously good! – and tempting bar bites like Black Cod with Japanese Tare Sauce; Wagyu Beef brushed in Sweet Miso with Smoked Bonito Flakes, and Akame Yellow Fin Tuna on a Kimchi Croquette. Yum! “We have invested in trying to take you out of the city for one night, in a theme that I think Dublin is ready for,” Dylan enthuses. He’s succeeded… and then some! tasteatrustic.com/bonsai-bar

The Bull Monty Having impressed for the past few years in Ballynahinch, County Down – TV food critic Jay Rayner describes them as “an utter joy” – The Bull & Ram is now also doing its award-winning gastropub thing at 44 University Road in Belfast’s historic Queens Quarter. Oysters are a big thing, as are their steaks, beer battered haddock with all the chip shop trimmings, and Sunday roasts.

bullandrambelfast.com.

Done To A Tea If you fancy zooming round town whilst scoffing delicious sandwiches, cakes and scones - with strawberry jam and fresh cream, naturally! - look no further than the Vintage Tea Tours, which put an old Routemaster bus to impeccably good use. As informative as it is delicious, you’ll get the lowdown on yesteryear Dublin, what goes on behind the posh curtains in Áras an Uachtaráin and lots more local insiders’ knowledge, plus a soundtrack of cool ‘50s jazz. vintageteatours.ie.

City Slicker The Vintage Tea Tours can also be booked through the Trinity City Hotel, a beautiful cluster of Pearse Street buildings just a degree scroll’s throw away from the famous college and the bright lights, big stores of Grafton Street. The art deco lobby and lounge are great refuges from the hustle and bustle outside, while contemporary Irish fare like Slow Cook Pork Belly with Black Pudding & Apple Croquettes and Smoked Haddock Risotto with Poached Egg & Parmesan Crisp rules in their Courtyard restaurant. If you fancy a festive splurge, their new fourth floor suites are so comfy we considered barricading ourselves in and refusing to leave. trinitycityhotel. com.

Big City Lights Our sadness at Brewbot closing down in Belfast – thanks for the hoppy memories, lads! – has been alleviated by their 451 Ormeau Road premises being taken over by the Galway Bay Brewery folk, and re-christened Northern Lights. Pop in on Monday and sample eight delicious Galway Bay beers for the price of a single pint! Having selflessly worked our way through the food menu on your behalf, the Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Chili Mayo gets the Enterprise ‘double thumbs up!’

galwaybaybrewery.com

ENTERPRISE

TRAVEL

Clockwise from top: one of the Dubrovnik locations for Game Of Thrones; a seaside view; and a tourist attraction in the city.

ENTERPRISE

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ADRIATIC FOR THE PEOPLE One of the jewels of Eastern Europe, Dubrovnik boasts stunning natural beauty and brilliant cultural attractions – and along with Belfast is one of the filming locations for smash hit fantasy series Game Of Thrones. By Stephanie Costello

he Croatian city of Dubrovnik, nestled away on the dazzling Dalmatian coast, is something to behold. In light of its neverending sandy shores, crystalline waters, mediterranean cuisine and breathtaking Baroque architecture, it is commonly referred to as the pearl of the Adriatic. However, Dubrovnik is far more than just a pretty face – several centuries worth of destruction and successive invasions have added manifold rich layers of history. Dubrovnik is a real multitasker of a city; there’s truly something for everyone. Whether you’re a metropolitan couple seeking beach-filled days, high-end shopping and swanky club nights, or a history and pop culture nerd, looking to absorb the ancient surrounds of a UNESCO world heritage site – and maybe take in a Game Of Thrones tour or two (or three) – you’re in for a treat.

GETTING THERE Flights to and from Dubrovnik are relatively cheap and incredibly stress free. Flying direct with Aer Lingus, the journey lasts around 3 hours and 15 minutes, then it’s just a short hop and jump on a shuttle bus (atlascroatia.com) to the main centre. Although Croatia gained accession to the European Union in 2013, Croats decided to retain their own currency, the Kuna, so don’t embarrass yourself by waving euros in a perplexed shopkeeper’s face. Admittedly, adjusting to the denominations can take some time – there are six different notes, all graced by famous bearded Croatian men (the longer the beard, the greater

the value of note – or so we’re told!). Dubrovnik owes its hot and humid summer to its geographical positioning in the mediterranean. With temperatures soaring over the 30 degree mark, the pastier among us would do well to stock up on the factor 50 beforehand. Luckily, it’s only three metres above sea level, so there’s usually a nice breeze as well.

HISTORY If history is your thing, then you’ve most definitely come to the right place. Dubrovnik, once known as the Republic of Ragusa, dates back as far as the 7th century, when habitants began to flee the onslaught of the gruesome Barbarians. The city quickly rose to prominence due to it’s proximity with Italian ports such as Venice, Pisa and Genoa, and expanded its sphere of influence with business savvy and innovative thinking. Among other things, Dubrovnik was home to one of the first modern sewage system (still in use today), the first ever quarantine, and was a pioneer in the realm of maritime law. Also worth mentioning is the influence of this former city state in matters of human rights. A relatively little known fact is that Dubrovnik was the first city in Europe to abolish slavery in 1416. Which explains its motto :‘Freedom is not sold for all the gold in the world’.

ARCHITECTURE Walking towards the city walls and through Pile Gate is akin to stepping into a time portal; fresh faced guards in traditional garments flank each side

as loot players gently pluck what sounds like the medieval number ‘Greensleeves’. After this it’s on to Stradun, the 300metre long, marble-lined main street, marked at both ends by fresh water fountains and punctuated with a stunning bell tower in the plaza. The walls of the city go back as far as the 13th century and are pristinely conserved, despite more recent attempts at destruction in the early ’90s during the Yugoslav wars. A walking tour of the walls will set you back around £10 and is absolutely worth it for that perfect panorama shot. It’s worth bearing in mind though, that the city we see today has endured many upheavals since its birth. A natural earthquake in the late 15th century destroyed most of the original architecture and left thousands dead. Following the devastating Yugoslav war in the early ’90s, Dubrovnik found itself having to rebuild again. The Croatian War Of Independence Museum (Fort Imperial, Mount Srd) comes highly recommended for an introduction to the city’s past turmoil

KAYAKING EXCURSIONS If you’re in an adventurous mood, there are day trips to Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina, while kayaking options are available for those looking to stay a little closer to home. The latter last approximately three hours and can be easily booked in advance in the city centre (Adventure Dubrovnik, Sv. Kriza 3). Departing from the foot of Lovrijenac Fortress, just beside the city walls, participants are treated to stunning views available only by sea, as well

Sea will rock you: the island of Lokrum

as access to a serene cave with lunch provided. No prior kayaking experience is necessary, and helpful local instructors are always on hand to offer tips.

GAME OF THRONES Possibly the most popular attraction in recent years is the Game Of Thrones walking tour. Most viewers will already know that the smash hit HBO series is filmed in part in Dubrovnik’s old town and surrounds. Diehard fans will recognise such familiar landmarks as Blackwater Bay, by the footsteps of Fort Lovrijenac; or the iconic stretch between the Jesuit Stairs on Gundulić Square to St. Ignatius Church – the site of Cersei’s notorious ‘Walk Of Shame’. Incidentally, when it came time to film the climactic nude scene of season five, the application was actually rejected by the Croatian Catholic Church, who took a hardline stance against public indecency. In the end, after strenuous negotiations, the shoot went ahead and cost a whopping £150,000 in total. The crew of GOT have built up a good reputation with the locals over the years by recruiting many of them as extras, and contributing handsomely to the local economy. Be sure to keep your eyes peeling for the stars if you hit the town of an evening – apparently Peter Dinklage and co. are regulars in various clubs and pubs around the city. Meanwhile, the holy grail of all Game Of Thrones sites requires a 15-minute ferry ride to the beguiling and verdant island of Lokrum. The official Iron Throne is located in a small museum close to the port.

drink coffee or wine in the one restaurant on the islandl however it is advisable to bring some cash, as there are no ATM facilities available. The ferry departs from the Old City’s main port quite frequently, but punctuality is key as the ferry it known to leave promptly.

LOCAL CUISINE Dubrovnik specialises in upmarket cuisine with a mediterranean bent. Expect fresh fish, crisp salads and handsomely sized steaks. For those looking for a gastronomical feast, Restaurant 360° is a Michelin star restaurant within the city’s ancient walls, serving dishes that look almost too good to eat, complemented by a panoramic view of the town’s old port (Svetog Dominika BB). If white linen tablecloths and multiple forks aren’t really your thing, there are a whole host of other options, ranging from Americanstyle hamburgers (Burger Tiger, Vetranićeva ul.4) pizza joints (Oliva Pizzeria, Lučarica ul.5) and Mexican Food (Mex Cantina Bona

ISLAND OF LOKRUM Lokrum also offers the best secluded swimming and snorkelling opportunities to be had anywhere in Dubrovnik. Visitors can relax and

The hunger games: Restaurant 3600

Fide, ubranovićeva ul. 8). Don’t expect to see multinationals like McDonald’s, KFC or Starbucks for the duration of the trip; the city is fiercely proud of its indigenous food culture, and tends to shirk the big American corporations. No trip to Dubrovnik would be complete without a shot of the fragrant Croatian fruit brandy, Rakija. With an alcoholic content of 40%, the brandy was initially used as a secret weapon against the common cold – these days it’s best served as an aperitif with cheese and prosciutto. Although widely available in most pubs and clubs, one of the best spots to enjoy it is in Buza Bar (Crijevićeva ul. 9), a hole in the wall style bar, with a blink and you’ll miss it facade. Easily one of the most beautiful bars in Dubrovnik, Buza Bar hangs atop a cliff face right on the Adriatic. To make the most of your trip to Dubrovnik, steer clear of the peak months of July and August, when tens of thousands of tourists descend, making it difficult to get around. The city is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace, as you stand in awe of your stunning surroundings.

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The stunning comeback album from U2 leads the way in our round-up of the best new album releases. SAM JONES

U2 Songs Of Experience (Interscope Records) Both shocks to the global political system and to Bono’s own body are reflected in the 13 songs featured on Songs Of Experience. Following the sage advice of Irish poet Brendan Kennelly – who told Bono to write “as if you’re dead” – most of them were conceived as final letters to his wife, children, friends and fans. However, he hasn’t given up the ghost just yet. What’s surprising, given the long gestation and the number of personnel involved, is that this record sounds so cohesive. It was recorded in no less than 11 different studios, but despite having many cooks and many kitchens, the broth certainly wasn’t spoiled. The album’s central message is spelled out in the eerie opening track ‘Love Is All We Have Left’ and beautifully bookended by the closing song ‘13 (There Is A Light)’, which spookily revisits and reinterprets the Songs Of Innocence track ‘Song For Someone’. Fans will already be familiar with the four tracks they’ve released to date: the ballad ‘The Little Things That Give You Away’, which featured most nights this year’s Joshua Tree Tour; classic sounding, politically-charged rocker ‘The Blackout’; the Eamon Dunphy-inspired ‘You’re The Best Thing About Me’; and latest single, ‘Get Out Of Your Own Way’. While critical reaction to these has been mixed, they’re perfectly placed in the track-listing here. The Syrian refugee crisis is addressed on two songs, the rocking ‘Red Flag Day’ and the beautifully melodic ‘Summer Of Love’: “In the rubble of Aleppo/Flowers blooming in the shadows/For a summer of love”. As with ‘You’re The Best Thing About Me’, standout song ‘Landlady’ is another hymn of gratitude from Bono to his wife, Ali: “And I’ll never know… what starving poets meant/Cause when I was broke/It was you that always paid the rent”. If you can listen without prejudice, you’ll find that this is as artful and well-crafted a collection of songs as Bono, Edge, Adam and Larry have ever produced. Which, after 40 years’ experience in the business of making music, is exactly as it should be.

S T. V I N C E N T Masseduction (Loma Vista Records) St. Vincent is back after a three-year hiatus. The stresses and strains brought on by the success of her eponymously titled 2014 album sees her return both shaken and stirred. Not so much a confessional as an open diary. The soundtrack is spiky new wave disco featuring special guests Thomas Bartlett on piano, Kamasi Washington on saxophone, Jenny Lewis on vocals, and beat production from Sounwave. Culled from snippets of song ideas jotted down between extracurricular activities, the album documents her life, love, friends and personal struggles. On ‘Pills’, the jaunty advertising-jingle chorus suggests there is a medication to meet every need, while title track boasts some electrifying guitar work. We’re loath to point out the Bowie influences as he’s audible in almost everything these days, but still they are there. No surprise, then, that ‘New York’ was in part influenced by his death last year. From the clattering nervous energy of ‘Fear The Future’ to the poignant anguish of ‘Slow Disco’, Masseduction is a fiercely personal record.

THE CORRS Jupiter Calling (East West Records) We’ve been trying to work out whether The Corrs have a family portrait hidden away somewhere in a dusty Dundalk attic. Judging from the eye-pleasing cover of

Jupiter Calling – the follow-up to 2015’s wellreceived comeback album White Light – the four siblings obviously do. While they’ve slightly aged, Andrea, Sharon, Caroline and Jim genuinely look almost as fresh-faced and wholesome as they did when they first arrived onto the international music scene in the mid-’90s with Forgiven, Not Forgotten. Twenty-seven years later, they’ve released album seven Jupiter Calling, which has all the usual elements that have made them such a runaway success in the past; that moneymaking combination of soft rock, infectious pop, and Irish folk, all topped off by Andrea’s sultry vocals. However, there’s a newfound maturity in both the music and the lyrics. Unusually for a Corrs album, proceedings kick off on quite a sombre note. ‘Son Of Solomon’ is a wistful traditional number featuring a truly mesmerising vocal performance from Andrea. And while the album features its share of love songs, there’s also a bit of a twist, in that some of them are more about love in a time of terror, displacement, demonisation and fake news. Of course, it’s not all so heavy. There’s plenty here that will appeal to their more traditional fanbase. The jaunty, trad-based ‘Dear Life’ could have been an outtake from any of the last six records, as could the poppy ‘A Love Divine’ (not a complaint). Meanwhile, a song such as ‘No Go Baby’ sounds like it could have been taken from a feelgood 1960s musical. Thoughtful, reflective, contemporary, and as marvellously melodic as ever, Jupiter Calling won’t lose The Corrs any fans, but it might not gain them any either.

NOEL GALLAGHER Who Built The Moon? (Caroline International) Finally, in an age of bland talent show pop stars, it’s a relief to have Mayo’s favourite (grand) sons, Liam and Noel Gallagher, back doing what they do best: taking lumps out of each other in public. Yes, they’re wild craic altogether, and never boring. Never, that is, until you actually play one of their records. Liam shifted units with this year’s As You Were, but its contents paled significantly when pitted against the best of Oasis. Noel, up until this point, had been ploughing a similar furrow. So it’s a surprise to be able to report then that Who Built The Moon? is a different bag of meat altogether, which may be down to the fact that Belfast beat-begetter David Holmes’ was in the producer’s chair for this one. Highlights, amongst many, include the slithery, circular guitar riff of ‘Black And White World’, the “surely that’s Clem Burke?” Blondie-style drums on ‘She Taught Me How To Fly’, and the ‘Come Together’ update of ‘Be Careful What You Wish For’. Johnny Marr props up the breezy pop of ‘If Love Is The Law’, but much more interesting are ‘Interlude’ and ‘End Credits’, beguiling instrumentals with echoes of Air and Zero.

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Ross O’Carroll Kelly’s navigating of Trump-era South Dublin, and a cocklewarming festive annual are among the highlights of our book round-up. O P E R AT I O N T R U M P S F O R M AT I O N Paul Howard (Penguin Ireland) In Operation Trumpsformation, the seventeenth book in his awardwinning series, author Paul Howard rugby tackles Ross’s life. Sorcha has kicked him out, his triplets are obsessed by – the horror – soccer, his daughter Honor is becoming ‘Eddie’, and his mother is in jail facing murder charges. To make matters considerably worse, his father has morphed into The Donald and wants to build a wall around Cork. Twenty years since he started writing Ross O’Carroll-Kelly, Howard’s latest satirical offering sparkles throughout and is funnier than ever. Roight, as the irrepressible Rosser might say, I’m going to call it. Howard is nothing if not predictable. Predictably fockin’ brilliant. And, for making something good come out of the Orange One’s presidency, free Heino in Kiely’s for life is well and truly in order.

WINTER PAPERS 3 Edited by Kevin Barry and Olivia Smith, (Curlew Editions, Sligo) Winter Papers 3, an A4-shaped thing of cloth-bound beauty, is an annual arts anthology containing stories, interviews, essays, reportage, and black-and-white photographs. Covering almost every facet of the arts in Ireland, it is edited by author Kevin Barry and his wife Olivia Smith, an academic. Among this year’s eclectic highlights are award-winning author Sara Baume’s meeting with visual artist Dorothy Cross, Paul Lynch’s tale ‘The Alphabet Of Trees’, ‘Tigers In Leitrim’ a poem by Roisin Kelly, and ‘Guest Book Of The Nation’ a story by Kevin Gildea. In a time when, as Barry says, ‘our creative work seems to be of so little consequence’, he emits a battle cry for artists and writers to ‘get back to the centre of the action’. Winter Papers 3 is a step in that direction; it is sublime.

HUNTER AND THE GRAPE Eoin Mackin, (Ward River Press) Surprisingly, for a man better known for his turns on BBC’s Merlin and RTE’s Fair City (some things will always stay with you), Eoin Macken is a writer with an incredibly lucid vision. His first book, Kingdom of Scars, resonated with a generation of young adults who didn’t realise they’d be missing a good, Irish, coming-of-age story. Hunter And The Grape is a similar affair, in that

it follows the lives of a group of young wanderers trying to find a place to carve out their dreams. The road they’re on – from New Mexico to LA – is a well-trodden one in fiction. And while the idea might not be the most original, the characters are relatable, their stories are involving, and this book never strays far from being very enjoyable.

T H E G I R L W H O TA K E S A N E Y E F O R A N E Y E David Lagercranz (MacLehose) The latest posthumous release in Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, the authorial mantle is again taken up by Larsson’s fellow Swede David Lagercanz whose CV includes ghostwriting duties on Zlatan Ibrahimovich’s autobiography. Disappointingly low on football allusions, The Girl Who Takes An Eye For An Eye again focuses on the celebrated odd couple of hacker Lisbeth Salander and investigative journalist Mikael Blomkvist. With Lisbeth behind bars for taking the law into her own hands in order to save a young boy’s life, Blomkvist makes the weekly trek to visit her – and, as is the order of such things, soon finds himself investigating a new crime that ultimately leads back to Lisbeth’s long lost twin. While Lisbeth in particular remains a brillia nt and compelling character, the story spirals off in a bewildering number of directions, and Lagercranz’s prose might be generously described as “functional”. Solid if unspectacular.

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Fly-on-the-wall documentary Conor McGregor: Notorious leads the way in Roe McDermott’s pick of the best winter DVD releases.

onor McGregor is both one of the best fighters and the biggest personalities in the world, which makes his origin story – captured in the documentary Conor McGregor: Notorious – all the more impressive. The fighter was still a debt-laden wannabe living in his mother’s house when he decided to document his career on film. Shot between 2012 and 2016, director Gavin Fitzgerald captures McGregor’s rise from a regional scrapper to a two-weight UFC Champion. Eschewing interviews and talking heads for a fly-on-the-wall approach, Fitzgerald submerges the viewer in McGregor’s ambition. Whether training (sometimes through serious injuries), hanging out in opulent Las Vegas suites or causing a stir at combative press conferences, McGregor’s focus is unwavering. He is always thinking of how to be better, willing to starve himself, train relentlessly and put on a show, so he can never be ignored. December brings the release of one of the year’s most critically acclaimed films, Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk. Telling the story of war’s greatest retreat, his exploration of British army troops stuck on a French beach in the early days of World War II uses a non-linear narrative to examine the battlefields of land, sea and air. Though there are characters here – characters whose experiences convey the unimaginable horrors of war – one of Nolan’s greatest feats in Dunkirk is planting the audience in the action. The movie is epic, but it’s also intimate; an old story told with dazzling, crystalline modern filmmaking. Indeed, the visuals are so immersive, they put you in the boots of the soldiers. Dunkirk unites its characters and

Clockwise from top left: Brawl In Cell Block 99, Dunkirk and Logan Lucky.

audiences in sheer horror, and experience. This isn’t a film about leaders or heroes or ideology. It’s about the realities of war and survival. And it’s devastating. Composer Hans Zimmer’s bombticking soundtrack never ceases for a second, nor does Nolan’s vision. You mightn’t breathe. But you’ll survive. And wonder how anyone ever does. If you want something a bit lighter and funnier, look no further than Steven Soderbergh’s uproarious heist flick Logan Lucky, out right after Christmas. The director’s depiction of a heist by blue-collar NASCAR fans in West Virginia is brimming with quirky Southern screwball charm, and also manages to act as a subtle commentary on the hardships facing rural Americans. Channing Tatum plays Jimmy Logan, whose financial struggles make him decide to rob the vault of the Charlotte Motor Speedway during its biggest race day. Not that he’s doing it alone: Jimmy recruits his one-armed Iraq vet brother Clyde (Adam Driver), sister Mellie (Riley Keough), and legendary safe-blower and redneck intellectual fruitcake Joe Bang – played with scene-stealing oddball hilarity by Daniel Craig. Bang is serving time in prison, so the Logan siblings have to break him out – and that’s before

the heist even begins. The screenplay has more eccentric characters than Fargo, and their humility and homemade props (dioramas made out of cardboard, bombs made out of Gummi bears) make their diabolically clever and twisty plans all the more enjoyable. From belly laugh to stomach punches, Brawl In Cell Block 99 is a stylish and violent harkback to ’70s grindhouse. Vince Vaughn plays Bradley Thomas, an imposing and tattooed former boxer who won’t ever needlessly hurt anyone, even though he’s more than capable. When convicted for drug-running, he plans to quietly serve his time and return to his family. But when blackmailed, Bradley must find and kill a criminal in maximum security – and the only way he can get there is by lashing out. Vaughn’s performance is fascinating. There’s a capacity for violence placated by fundamental decency; a steely gaze softened by understated Southern charm. Bradley’s restraint and forlorn demeanour echoes S. Craig Zahler’s filmmaking style, which has a tense and slowburning first hour, before Bradley’s brutally violent quest begins. A perfect example of a down-and-dirty exploitation flick done well.

Dublin & Belfast

ATTRACTIONS

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A TALE OF TWO CITIES

National Gallery

IMMA

DUBLIN IRISH MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Royal Hospital, Military Rd Kilmainham, Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 612 9900 imma.ie As the name indicates, the Irish Museum of Modern Art houses the country’s largest collection of contemporary and modern art. Opened in 1991, the museum sits in the former Royal Hospital Kilmainham, a 17th-century building that previously served as a home for retired soldiers. The location is unique, with long corridors surrounding an open courtyard. This winter IMMA hosts digital_self, an exhibition exploring the ramifications of the digital age, and continues to host 50 works by one of the greatest realist painters of the 20th century, Lucian Freud.

EPIC IRELAND The chq building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 906 0861 epicchq.com Looking to discover what it is to be truly Irish? Look no further, as Epic Ireland is a state-of-the-art visitor

experience that explores the journey of the Irish nation. With 20 galleries of vibrant Irish life to navigate through, the experience narrates the story of Ireland’s communities at home and overseas, both past and present. Giving the Irish an opportunity to reconnect with their ancestors and giving tourists the opportunity to learn about Ireland, the joyous and also frequently devastating history of Ireland is brought to life through a series of guided and self-guided tours.

CHESTER BEATTY LIBRARY Dublin Castle, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 407 0750 cbl.ie Described by Lonely Planet as "not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe,” the Chester Beatty Library has become one of the most popular cultural institutions in Dublin. The library is home to rich collections from Europe, Asia, the Middle East and North Africa. The extensive collection brings the viewer closer to the artistic treasures of the great cultures and

religions of the world. With tours in multiple languages, free admission and priceless manuscripts and artwork to examine, there are worse ways to spend an afternoon.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND Merrion Square West, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 5133 Nationalgallery.ie First opening its doors in 1864, the National Gallery of Ireland is located in the heart of Dublin city centre and holds the largest collection of European and Irish fine art, with 2,500 paintings and approximately 10,000 other works in different media including watercolours, drawings, prints and sculpture. Every major European school of painting is represented in the gallery, while the JB Yeats room is a particular highlight of the museum. For the winter season, the National Gallery will be hosting the 24 entries shortlisted for this year’s Hennessy Portrait Prize, including the winning submission by Cork born, Crawford College of Art & Design graduate,

Jack Hickey.

NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM PLUS 22-25 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 2 The National Wax Museum Plus recently opened in the iconic Lafayette building that divides Westmoreland St. and D’Olier St – an appropriately central location for a museum full of figures central to Irish history. Visitors can explore the past via the museum’s own Augmented Reality app – watch Brendan Behan’s face spring to life and recite poetry, or a sketch of the Liffey morph into an animated pictorial history of Dublin. Kids will love how the app ‘gamifies’ the museum too, with treasure (and ghosts!) to find. Watch out also for their Night at the Museum events, where visitors are taken through the museum in masks, and actors bring exhibits to life.

Dublin & Belfast

ATTRACTIONS

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

Crumlin Road Gaol

BELFAST CITY HALL Donegall Square, Belfast Tel: 028 9032 0202 Visitbelfast.com One of Belfast’s most iconic buildings, Belfast City Hall first opened its doors in August 1906 and is situated on the site of the old Linen Hall. An impressively imposing building, the City Hall stands as Belfast’s crowning architectural achievement. Free public tours, which delve into the history of the building and the city, are available throughout the week. The surrounding Gardens also feature a number of monuments, including the Titanic Memorial, and are the perfect place to find yourself on a sunny summer day.

TITANIC BELFAST 1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road, Titanic Quarter, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9076 6386, titanicbelfast.com “It’s really quite phenomenal. It’s a magnificent, dramatic building, the biggest Titanic exhibit in the world,” enthuses Titanic film director James Cameron, and we’re not about

to disagree with him. The Titanic Belfast is an unmissable experience and since opening, thousands of visitors have thronged to the centre to learn about the history of the world’s most famous shipping disaster. Titanic Belfast is open daily.

ULSTER MUSEUM Botanic Gardens, Belfast Tel: +44 28 9044 0000 nmni.com/um The Ulster Museum is Belfast’s one-stop-shop for all things art, archaeology, zoology, geology and history. Since opening its doors more than 80 years ago, it has gathered one of the most extensive collections of Irish art on the planet. The exhibits don’t stop at artistry; the museum also houses a vast collection of natural history pieces from specimens of birds, mammals, insects, plants and even dinosaurs. No trip to Belfast would be complete without a visit to this cultural and historical hub; opening hours are 10am to 5pm Tuesday through Sunday and with free admission, it’s an unmissable day out.

CRUMLIN ROAD GAOL 53-55 Crumlin Road, Belfast Tel: +4428 9074 1500 The Crumlin Road Gaol is a 19th century Grade A listed jail and the only Victorian prison left in Northern Ireland. Much like Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin, its story is synonymous with the history of the Belfast, and some notable historical figures have passed through its walls, including Eamonn DeValera and Martin McGuinness. The tour of the Gaol allows access to all areas, including the underground tunnel which links to the courthouse on the other side of the Crumlin Road, the hanging cell, the Governor’s office, the hospital and the graveyard.

event. Beginning at Deanes and Decano, in the heart of the city centre, you will be ferried around the city in Deanes’ own double decker bus, stopping at each location for a different course – including a stop at the Michelin-star Deanes at Howard Street – and learning about the city’s cuisine along the way. Book early as tickets get snapped up fast!

DINE AROUND DEANES 537 Lisburn Road, Belfast Tel: +44 28 9066 3108 Dine Around Deanes is a unique opportunity to sample the delights of Belfast’s most famous restaurant by visiting each of its four locations throughout the city. Originally created in 2013 to mark Belfast Food Week, the idea was so popular that it was extended into a weekly

Dublin & Belfast

RESTAURANTS

DINING OUT

Bagots Hutton

DUBLIN FADE STREET SOCIAL Fade Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 604 0066, fadestreetsocial.com Former Irish MasterChef judge Dylan McGrath has helped make Fade Street one of the most fashionable destinations in the city right now. The spectacular tapas in the Gastro Bar are perfect for sharing with your date. Try the Chinese Pork Belly with Asian Spices & Crispy Peanut Brittle or a portion of Skinny Fries with Grated Parmesan, Smoked Bacon & Brown Onion Purée. There are innovative vegetarian options too. The main restaurant here is also a rip-roaring success; book early to get a table.

PACINO’S 18 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 5651, pacinos.ie Just off the busy retail strip at Grafton Street, Pacino’s is an award-winning Italian restaurant that combines a casual atmosphere with memorable dishes that pack a flavourful punch. Rich and authentic, they can be enjoyed as a treat after a shopping trip. Their outstanding pizza menu includes a wondrous Gorgonzola e Salamino Piccante combo. They’re a friendly bunch and this remains one of the most fun restaurant experiences in the city. Chef Patron Luca Mazza from Milan offers pasta dishes loaded with fine ingredients. The €29.95 Three-Course Set Menu is

BELFAST superb value, with the Saltimbocca alla Romana di Pollo con Pure’ di Patate, AKA ‘Jump In The Mouth’, another Enterprise favourite.

BAGOTS HUTTON 6 Ormond Quay Upper, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 878 8118, bagotshutton.com Located on the northside of the Liffey and offering stunning views of the river through its waterside windows, Bagots Hutton is a New York-style café restaurant, funky wine bar, live music venue and arts space all rolled into one. They get up early during the week with breakfast served from 7am. Saturday and Sunday brunch, served respectively from 10am and noon, is a big thing with lots of bubbles and some choice cocktails to continue the weekend groove. A classic Plum Tomato & Buffalo Mozzarella Caprese Salad and Toasted Feather Blade Steak with Rocket, Tomatoes, Fried Onions and Horse Radish Sandwich are the pick of a very fine lunch menu, with the Italian pizza oven getting fired up at night, and such á la carte delights as Baked Seabream with Saffron Potatoes & Braised Fennel or Chargrilled Pork Chop with Mediterranean Vegetables & Tenderstem Broccoli to choose from.

OX 1 Oxford Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 4121, oxbelfast.com Looking out on the River Lagan, this Michellin starred eatery seats just 40, which makes for a wonderfully intimate dining experience. The £50 Seasonal Tasting Menu – £80 with paired wines – is extraordinarily good value and lets you experience the full scope of chef Stephen Toman’s culinary imagination. He’s a firm believer in nose to tail eating, which means lots of alternative cuts of meat. They also push the envelope in terms of the fish and veggie dishes they serve. The diverse drinks selection includes locally microwbrewed beers, and the new wave of gins you rarely find elsewhere in Northern Ireland. More casual dining is available in the next-door OX Cave.

EIPIC 36-40 Howard Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9033 1134, michaeldeane. co.uk Michael Deane’s name is synonymous with the best of Belfast food. The prolific restaurateur has seven eateries in the city and EIPIC is the jewel in the crown. It took a mere 18 months to bag its first Michelin star under the stewardship of head chef Danni Barry who takes diners on a thrilling culinary journey. Her food is bold with a distinctive local

flavour. You can enjoy a £40 or £60 Tasting Menu in the modern, stylish dining-room. There’s a full Vegetarian Menu available. Expect delicately prepared, perfectly presented dishes.

THE MUDDLERS CLUB Warehouse Lane, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 3199, themuddlersclubbelfast.com Hidden down a quiet Cathedral Quarter lane - you may have to ask a friendly local for directions! -this elegant eatery has former OX sous Gareth McCaughey in the kitchen. While they share the same local and seasonal philosophy, The Muddlers Club is no copycat with a £18 Two-Course Lunch Menu that includes Blackened Lamb, Short-Rib with Charred Carrot & Porcini and Plaice with Bisque & Cauliflower. It's amazing value for food of this quality, with a Michelin Guide 2017 namecheck to confirm it!

Dublin & Belfast

BARS

LIQUID REFRESHMENT Sale of the century: Titanic Belfast

Bonsai Bar

DUBLIN BONSAI BAR South Great George's Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 707 9596 tasteatrustic.com Bonsai Bar is the latest venture by chef and restaurateur Dylan McGrath. Situated in the heart of Dublin, it introduces a new concept in high-end Japanese-influenced food and drinks to the capital. Bonsai Bar carries an unrivalled list of luxury Japanese whiskeys, authentic Japanese beers and world-renowned saké. However, it’s the sophistication of the Japaneseinspired bespoke cocktails and exquisite, gourmet bar bites, as well as the evocative ambience, that gives Bonsai Bar an edge for glamour-tinged, eveningtime socialising. When it comes cocktails, we recommend the Kanto Old Fashioned.

PYGMALION Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin Tel: (01) 633 4479 A few months away from celebrating their eighth birthday, it’s fair to say that Pygmalion has changed the face of night life in Dublin. While it may be famed for bringing a plethora of big dance

The Belfast Empire

BELFAST names to the capital, whether you're there for the music or not this is one of the best hangout spots in the city. With some of the finest cocktails you’re likely to get anywhere in Dublin, and a not-tooshabby two for one deal on Sunday, Pgymalion has grown to become a busy social hub seven nights a week.

HARRY’S ON THE GREEN 2 South King Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 475 8504 harrysonthegreen.ie Bringing a touch of New York class to the heart of the city, those in the know have long frequented Harry’s On The Green for its award winning cocktails and hip, sophisticated vibe. A balmy summer’s evening is perfect for pulling up a chair on the outdoor terrace, while popping down the stairs will land you right in the middle of a cosy party atmosphere channelling the spirit of the Big Apple. Once you taste the creations of their expert mixologists, you’ll understand why everyone who’s anyone makes this achingly stylish spot a regular haunt. In fact, you’ll likely find yourself booking in for a masterclass in how to make their laudable libations for yourself!

THE THIRSTY GOAT 1 Hill Street, Belfast Tel: +4428 9024 1415 One of the newest bars to open up shop in Belfast’s busiest social district, the Cathedral Quarter, The Thirsty Goat is an extension of the popular 21 Social nightclub. The bar features a beautiful beer garden with a rustic, rural feel and live music throughout the week. Drinks-wise, The Thirsty Goat specialises in local gins (something of a sensation in Belfast these days), craft ales, and Irish whiskeys. They’ve also got a fantastic allday food menu, with their Dry Rib Brisket being a highlight.

MURIEL’S CAFÉ BAR

the perfect concoction to get you through the long winter ahead.

THE BELFAST EMPIRE 42 Botanic Avenue, Belfast Tel: +44 (28) 9024 9276 thebelfastempire.com Located in a former church, the Empire is a mainstay of the city’s live music and comedy scene, and has been for many decades. With three floors, a cavernous live music space and eye-catching paintings, the Empire quickly became a mustsee for revellers across the country when it opened in 1987. Everyone from Sigur Ros to Nanci Griffith has performed in the past and several great residency bands keep crowds coming through the week.

12-14 Church Lane, Belfast Tel: +44 (28) 9033 2445 facebook.com/muriels.cafebar Belfast’s newest gin bar reflects the changing character of the city centre. Mixing its classy setting with a decadent interior (lingerie hangs brazenly from the roof), Muriel’s is part of a number of emerging bars which have made Belfast a hub for nightlife and tourism. Offering some of the best cocktails you’re likely to find anywhere, the Bee’s Knees in particular – featuring Hendrick’s gin and a slab of honey to garnish – is

Dublin & Belfast

SHOPPING

BEAUTIFUL BUYS

Rhinestones jewellety and gifts - Dublin

DUBLIN RHINESTONES JEWELLERY AND GIFTS 18 St Andrew's St, Dublin, D02 T382 Tel : (01) 6790759 A blink and you’ll miss it treasure trove of quirky one off pieces and a mecca for in the know fashion insiders, Rhinestones is the destination to add that final je ne sais quoi element to any outfit. It deals in early Victorian brooches, Edwardian lockets and Venetian glass beads as well as jawdroppingly sumptuous gemstones beautifully displayed in antique glass cabinets. Prices range from €20 to €2000, so you’ll be sure to find something suited to all pockets.

GENIUS Clarendon Street, Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 7851 genius.ie One for the fashion conscious gentlemen among you, Genius has long been known as Ireland’s best independent denim, fashion and footwear retailers. Stocking some of the finest and most cutting-edge brands from around the world, their selection of T-shirts, tops, blazers,

St Georges Market - Belfast

BELFAST leather jackets and, of course, jeans is fantastic. Throw in some great music, amazing presentation, helpful stylists and a visit to Genius is unlikely to be your last.

ARTICLE 22 Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 679 9268 articledublin.com A must for lovers of stylish design, Article offers a beautifully curated range of decorative home accessories and contemporary table wear. The owners have a great eye for quirky yet functional furnishings, and their unique selection often offers personal items that have been specially sourced from international designers, or merely amassed on world travels. The perfect destination for the houseproud host, these homewares are surefire talking points, and perfect gifts. Article also has a host of stylish and wittily designed stationary, fashion books, and charming maps of Dublin.

IRISH DESIGN SHOP 41 Drury Street, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 679 8871 A love of Irish craft and good

design led jewellers Clare Grennan and Laura Caffrey to establish their gorgeous craft store in the heart of Dublin. Promoting not only Irish wares but the talented designers behind them, the fourstorey building contains both a retail space and a metalwork studio, emphasising the relationship between design and product. Clare and Laura hand-pick the covetable pieces which include homeware, stationery, jewellery, accessories and fantastic wall prints. Tourists and fashionistas alike will love their modern take on Aran knits, which include stylish hats and mittens. The Irish Design Shop also hosts craft workshops, such as weekend events teaching you how to work with metal, and design and create silver jewellery. They also run special workshops for couples looking to design and make their own wedding rings, which would make a perfect engagement present for a loved-up couple.

ST GEORGES MARKET May Street, Belfast BT1 1NN, Northern Ireland Tel : (+44) 28 9024 6609 If it’s atmosphere you’re after, look no further than this indoor Victorian market known for its selection of beautifully crafted goods and mouthwatering street food stalls. Open for only three days a week, (Friday - Sunday) St.Georges is brought to life by a live band strumming in the awe-inspiring surrounds and it’s local independent retailers. It’s no wonder it was voted the ‘UK’s Best Large Indoor Market 2014’.

THE BUREAU, BELFAST 310 Newtownards Rd, Belfast Tel: (028) 9046 0190 thebureaubelfast.com Established over 25 years ago, the Bureau speaks to classic gentlemen who quest for long-lasting clothes with a timeless style. The mission statement of The Bureau has a strong focus on heritage and durability. Because of this, founder Michael Hamilton has prided himself on his ability to consistently and directly meet the needs of customers, rather than simply follow the fashion du jour.

Dublin & Belfast

A C C O M M O D AT I O N

STAYING OVER

Hilton Hotel - Belfast

The Merchant Hotel- Belfast

BELFAST

DUBLIN MORRISON HOTEL

HARCOURT HOTEL

HILTON BELFAST

Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 887 2400 morrisonhotel.ie An unmistakable hint of rock’n’roll colours the air at the Morrison, the four-star Liffeyside hotel where a distinctive artistic aura gives nods to legendary Irish artists. This cultural theme can even be felt in the comfortable and stylish interiors, as certain bedrooms throughout the hotel find their décor complemented by famous Irish song lyrics. Don’t dare leave without a meal in the stylish but rustic Morrison Grill and a drink in Quay 14, the destination bar where cocktails are inspired by classic Irish songs.

60 Harcourt St, Dublin 2 Tel: (01)4783677 harcourthotel.ie A central hotel set across eight Georgian houses, one of which was the former home of the dramatist George Bernard Shaw, the Harcourt Hotel won’t leave too big a dent in your bank balance, but it will ensure that you’re never too far away from Dublin city’s nightlife. Enjoy casual dining at the 1900 restaurant, while the Black Door piano bar is one of the city’s most glamorous hangouts. If you want to make a night of it, basement club DTwo continues into the small hours.

THE WESTBURY HOTEL

6–8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 407 0800 theclarence.ie Located on Wellington Quay, the Clarence was one of Dublin’s first boutique hotels. All the furnishing has been designed and crafted by Irish artisans, including the comfortable super kingsize beds. The Octagon bar is not to be missed – the art deco-style watering hole so impressed Bono and The Edge they decided to buy the entire hotel. Equally impressive is the Liquor Rooms, a basement venue dedicated to cocktails; perfect to unwind in after a long day

4 Lanyon Place, Belfast BT1 3LP, UK Tel: +44 (0) 28 9027 7000 hilton.com/belfast If you’re eager to explore the vibrant wonders of Belfast City over the winter, the Hilton Belfast might just be the place for you. Situated right across from Belfast Central station, you need only step out the door to find a myriad of experiences immediately within reach. For those keen on doing some gift shopping, there’s St. George’s Market and Victoria Square. Then there’s the Belfast Waterfront right around the corner, should you be on the prowl for a few amazing gigs, exhibitions or shows. Up the road is the Cathedral Quarter, which offers a plethora of restaurants and a view of the Belfast Titanic. When it comes to food, meanwhile, the Hilton’s Sonoma Restaurant gives you the chance to enjoy the famous Hilton breakfast buffet, whilst overlooking the River Lagan. For more exceptional views of the city, the deluxe rooms and Executive Lounge also come highly recommended. On the nightlife front, should you wish to attend any performances at the Waterfront, there is a superb pre-theatre menu available at the Sonoma. Afterwards, you can also retire to the Cables Bar and unwind

Balfe Street, Dublin 2 TEL: (01) 679 1122 doylecollection.com Dublin hotels don’t get more central than The Westbury, an opulent five-star hotel overlooking Grafton Street’s buzzing shopping hub. Among its most fabulous attractions are the grand piano on The Terrace, a popular firstfloor meeting place for afternoon tea, the €1 million worth of Irish art acquisitions on display in The Gallery Lounge, the high-art cuisine in the Wilde restaurant and the 1930s-style glamour of The Sidecar.

THE CLARENCE

with one of their highly regarded cocktails.

THE MERCHANT HOTEL 16 Skipper St, Belfast Tel: +44 28 9023 4888 themerchanthotel.com The Merchant Hotel, Belfast’s only 5 Red Star rated hotel with The AA, is situated in the heart of Belfast historic Cathedral Quarter. Formerly the headquarters of the Ulster Bank, the Victorian grandeur of this building is complemented by a new, elegant Art Deco wing, which features a multitude of luxurious amenities. Inside the hotel, you’ll find a tranquil spa, a rooftop gymnasium with panoramic city views, an award-winning cocktail bar, a sumptuous restaurant and a fabulous jazz bar. This Christmas, The Merchant has a wealth of indulgent experiences to ensure that the season is truly magical. Guests and visitors can enjoy festive banquets, sumptuous overnight stays, seasonal afternoon teas and fabulous celebrations to ring in the New Year. One of the city’s finest hotels, The Merchant is a mere stone’s throw away from Belfast’s top tourist attractions, including the Titanic Museum and City Hall.

M Y

C I T Y | D U B L I N

Dublin’s best bar? For pints I love Kehoe’s on South Anne Street. I hope they never change an inch of iWhen I’m working on the brownie points, I also love heading to the cocktail bar in The Fitzwilliam Hotel with my wife Ger. Their Dirty Martini is a force to be reckoned with! Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? Nolan’s in Clontarf. They have everything – I pop in every week with my Tasty Tuesday shopping list. Where do you shop for clothes? I like shops where the assistants give you space to browse, but are there if you need them. Diffney, Debenhams and Next are my favourites. Next do a very handy three pack of my underwear! Dublin needs more? Beer gardens – not just smoking areas pretending to be beer gardens – when the sun shines. Dublin needs less? Doughnut shops. Favourite Dublin building? The Central Criminal Court on Parkgate Street. It’s a beautiful design – I haven’t been inside (thankfully) but it always looks seriously modern when I drive by or see it on the news.

L’Ecrivain

IAN DEMPSEY TV Presenter & Broadcaster

What do you like best about Dublin? The people, the tough-love wit, the meeting somebody on the street and doing something spontaneous – “Are you going for a pint?” Best outdoors place? On a sunny day The Summit Inn in Howth is the closest thing to heaven. There’s always an eclectic crowd outside. Also, I’ve never been on The Marker Hotel rooftop but I hear it’s fantastic. Dublin’s best restaurant? We recently went back to L’Ecrivain and it was stunning (so was the bill, but every now and again it’s completely worth it) – every single taste was quality. The staff really know their stuff, but they’re very relaxed and friendly too. A dish from Il Vicoletto

Your Dublin music? Philo, Christy, Damien – oh go on then ... and Bono. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? The peninsula of Howth and Sutton – it’s where I live and it is magical. It’s like a small principality. Your Dublin hero? Whatever happened to the heroes? Mine was Bang Bang – he used to hop off the bus when I was walking home from school and point his key (masquerading as a gun) and shoot me – ‘bang bang’. Nowadays he’d be taken off the streets and locked up. But he was harmless. When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? These days we like to keep searching for Dublin’s best Italian restaurant. Top of the list so far are IL Vicoletto on Crow Street in Temple Bar and Terra Madre on Bachelors Walk. The Ian Dempsey Breakfast Show can be heard weekdays from 7am-9am on Today FM.

FUN FILLED DUBLIN JOURNEYS TO

Dublin Family & Friends Day Return from Belfast

Â£50

#smartmovers

after 9:30am

Conditions apply.

only

DUBLIN CITY CENTRE

Midweek Breaks

(Sunday to Thursday inclusive) With NIR Travel Staying at the Harcourt Hotel Fashionable City Centre Hotel close to Grafton St and St. Stephen’s Green.

Your break includes:

Return rail from any NIR Station. 2 nights Bed & Breakfast. 3 Course Early Bird Dinner on one evening in the elegant 1900 (Nineteen Hundred) Restaurant.

January / February £119 • March / April £145 CERTAIN EXCLUSION DATE BUT YOU WILL BE ADVISED AT THE TIME OF BOOKING.

For reservations contact NIR Travel call 028 90 242420 (office hours Monday to Friday & Saturday Morning) NIR Travel 10-12 Glengall St. Belfast. www.harcourthotel.ie