Go rail - Brendan Gleeson - V1N2 by Hot Press Publishing

JULY - SEPT 2011 VOL:1 ISSUE:2

• T H E G A R DA T H E Y COME•

BRENDAN

GLEESON

ON HIS NEW BOX-OFFICE SMASH

PLUS CIAN HEALY ON THE RUGBY WORLD CUP DINNER WITH PHILL JUPITUS IN GALWAY KILDARE: OF HORSES, SHOPPING & FESTIVALS

A R CA D E F I R E LO O K F O R WA R D TO T H E E L E C T R I C P I C N I C Go Rail Cover 01-02.indd 2

15/07/2011 18:01:10

Jam packed with festivals, Waterford simply has something for everyone!

Waterford: Festival City! First up is the 18th Spraoi International Street Arts Festival, which will run from 29th until 31st July. Full

of mischief, Spraoi manages to turn Waterford into a city of madness and mayhem during this popular three day festival, which attracts nearly 100,000 people annually. Festival highlights include ‘The Spraoi Parade,’ set to be the biggest event of the entire festival featuring two hundred costumed performers, specially built mechanical floats, live music and special effects. Look out for the ‘Big Top at the People’s Park and ‘The New Music Stage’ will play host to acts such as Katie Kim, DJ Donal Dineen, Deaf Joe and Enemies to name just a few. For more Spraoi International information on Spraoi visit Street Arts Festival www.spraoi.com.

Waterford Harvest Festival

Next in line after Spraoi is the delicious Waterford Harvest Festival – for foodies everywhere - which runs from 3rd to 11th September. Waterford Harvest Festival is a mouth-watering nine day festival full of markets, barbeques, picnics, feasts, taste workshops, street entertainment, street parties and craft villages for the whole family to enjoy. Kicking it all off

on Saturday 3rd September is ‘The Big Street Barbeque Gig,’ set to be the gig ‘n’ grub highlight of the year, featuring The Stunning, The Saw Doctors and O Emperor on the big stage in Bolton Street car park - definitely not to be missed! Tickets are priced at €25 but there’s an early bird ticket on sale until Tuesday 2nd August for just €19! Other highlights for this tasty festival include ‘Glory Bee to Honey,’ ‘Fishy Friday,’ ‘The GIY Gathering and Street Feast’ and ‘Amazing Grazing’. For more information visit www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie. Later in the year the

Waterford Imagine Arts Festival takes

place, a cocktail of music, theatre, film, dance, comedy, spoken word and visual art that lasts for eleven days from 21st to 31st October. Imagine features live performances and special workshops for all ages and interests. The Penguin Café Some of this year’s highlights to look forward to include ‘The Penguin Café,’ ‘The Kane Sisters,’ ‘Lost Brothers,’ ‘RTE Vanburgh,’ ‘The Rocky Horror Picture Show’ and ‘The Country Girls’. The 2011 programme will be available from www.imagineartsfestival. com later in the year, so bookmark the page and plan your cultural visit to Waterford in October! Waterford City plays host to twenty different festivals annually. For more information on planning your visit to Waterford City, see www.discoverwaterfordcity.ie.

Win a trip to Waterford City!

Win an overnight stay at the Tower Hotel for two people including dinner and breakfast, PLUS a tour of the House of Waterford Crystal and a €100 voucher to spend in the sparkling crystal showroom! For your chance to win this trip to Waterford City, simply answer the following question: Name one of the bands appearing at the Big Street Barbeque Gig at the Waterford Harvest Festival. Email your answer and your contact details to competition@waterfordcity.ie Closing date for entries is 30th September 2011.

TO SAGGART

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CONTENTS

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JULY - SEPT 2011 VOLUME: 1 ISSUE: 2

38 42

30 8 GO FOR IT A rundown of what’s hot and happening throughout the country. 26 GO NEWS Up-to-date train news from Iarnród Éireann. 30 BRENDAN'S VOYAGE Irish actor BRENDAN GLEESON chats about his new ﬁlm The Guard, his son Domhnall's blossoming ﬁlm career, and joining Barack Obama on his recent Irish visit. 38 PLAYING WITH FIRE As they prepare for Stradbally's annual Electric Picnic festival, Montreal rockers ARCADE FIRE take time out to talk to Go Rail about their return to Ireland, recording their latest album, and the controversies that come with fame. 42 DON'T YOU WANT ME? Chart-topping boyband THE WANTED may have

54 girls falling at their feet now, but it's been a tough rise to the top for the ﬁve-piece. The band's only Irish member Siva Kaneswaren talks about hitting the big time. 44 SPORT With the rugby World Cup fast approaching, Go Rail talks to Ireland's CIAN HEALY about his hopes of returning home from New Zealand triumphant. 48 GO BUSINESS The people behind the DUNGARVAN BREWING COMPANY and MESSRS. MAGUIRE BREWPUB explain their craft. 54 GO EAT We visit Moran's of Kilcolgan with comedian PHILL JUPITUS, sample the creative cocktails served up in Dublin's EXCHEQUER bar, and have a bite to eat in Galway's newest eatery, ANIAR.

58 GO PLACES A month-long summer festival, a veritable village of designer boutiques, a world-renowned stud, and the beautiful Japanese Gardens - KILDARE really has it all. 63 HEADING SOUTH Go Rail pays a visit to the picturesque county of Kerry, reporting back from its largest town, TRALEE. 68 FASHION Dressing for summer needn't be tricky with our essential style tips. 72 HEALTH IS YOUR WEALTH Advice on how to stay healthy in the summer sunshine! 78 REVIEWS Our team of reviewers cast their eye over the latest albums, books and DVDs.

5 GO RAIL Contents 1

18/07/2011 14:50:54

CREDITS JULY - SEPTEMBER 2011 VOLUME: 1 ISSUE: 2 MANAGING EDITOR

Máirín Sheehy

COMMISSIONING EDITOR

Roisin Dwyer

CONTRIBUTORS

Stuart Clark John Donnelan Craig Fitzsimons David Hanratty Jackie Hayden Maeve Heslin Roe McDermott Celina Murphy Colm O’Hare Ed Power Fiona Sherlock Eamonn Seoige Anne Sexton

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hot Press 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

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David Keane

DEAR CUSTOMER

A MESSAGE FROM THE CEO

Andrew Duffy Maeve Keane (intern)

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Graham Keogh

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Boylan’s Print

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Trish Murphy Suzanne Dwyer

PUBLISHER

Niall Stokes

GO RAIL IS PUBLISHED FOR IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY:

Osnovina Ltd 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

TELEPHONE

(01) 2411 500

FAX

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gorail@hotpress.ie

LETTERS

The Editor,

This summer, Iarnród Éireann has introduced a range of special offers, to give you even better value on our services across the network.

DART & Commuter services all summer, • Major savings on weekly return tickets on the Intercity network from ticket offices.

As well as our Intercity fares starting at €10 each way on all routes on irishrail.ie, our summer specials include:

In this issue of Go Rail, you’ll find some ideas on where to go on your next great value journey with us. Full information on these and other offers are on irishrail.ie and we look forward to welcoming you aboard!

• 50% off all tickets booked on irishrail.ie for travel on Saturdays all summer, • €20 day returns from ticket offices for adults (and €50 for families) from Dublin to anywhere in the country on Saturdays all summer, • €10 for a day’s unlimited travel for a family on

WELCOME TO FESTIVAL COUNTRY I

t’s hard to believe that the days are already getting shorter. The summer months have been fun so far, with festivals and events all over Ireland encouraging people to leave their troubles behind, climb aboard the train and start partying!

Go Rail Magazine, 13 Trinity St Dublin 2

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Iarnród Eireann. All material © Osnovina 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

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Credits GoR 1.2 1

Dick Fearn, Chief Executive, Iarnród Éireann.

Well, as this issue of Go Rail amply demonstrates, there’s loads more frolics still to come, before we start to shudder – and think about the onset of winter. From the Dublin Horse Show, through the Rose of Tralee to the Electric Picnic in Stradbally, there is no shortage of big events over the next few months, for people to look forward to with a fine sense of anticipation (have you got your ticket to the Picnic yet?). But one of the great things about Ireland is the very high level of participation by people in local events – and the resulting way in which towns and villages all over the country have put together really interesting, culturally relevant festivals, with very strong line-ups covering music, theatre, the arts, carnival attractions – and a whole lot more besides. No wonder Ireland is being hailed as the ultimate Festival Country by so many visitors… Many of these smaller events have been highlighted in this issue of Go Rail, so start planning your weekends away for the rest of the

summer, and into the autumn, right now! In what is a bumper midsummer edition of Go Rail, we talk to indie rock superstars Arcade Fire, before their headlining appearance at what promises to be a brilliant Electric Picnic, at the start of September. We also meet Cian Healy, one of the new breed of Irish rugby players and look forward in his company to the Rugby World Cup, which takes place in New Zealand, also in September. The journey to Auckland is a bit long for most Irish fans to make the trip, but Cian will get you in the mood for some early morning viewing, with his contention that Ireland can indeed go all the way on this occasion. Here’s hoping… And in our cover story, we talk to Brendan Gleeson, among a number of Irish actors who have already shown themselves to be world-beaters, about the new wave of Irish films. Gleeson’s latest success is in the uproariously funny locallyproduced film The Guard – an Irish box office smash, which might yet go on to become a major international success. There’s all that – and so much more to enjoy, as we cover the phenomenon of Irish crime novels, the latest fashion trends and the arrival of independent Irish brewing as a force to be reckoned with. Sit back – and enjoy… Máirín Sheehy. Editor

6 15/07/2011 17:59:44

All All your your summer summer All your summer festivals festivalsininone one festivals in one 1 JULY 1 JULY TO TO 1414 AUGUST AUGUST 1 JULY TO 14 AUGUST

WHITNEY WHITNEYPORT PORT PORTCATHY CATHYDAVEY DAVEY WHITNEY CATHY DAVEY

GENEALOGY GENEALOGYGOOD GOODFOOD FOODIRELAND IRELAND GENEALOGY GOOD FOOD IRELAND OPEN OPEN AIR AIR OPERA OPERATRADITIONAL TRADITIONAL IRISH IRISH MUSIC MUSIC OPEN AIR OPERA TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC

and and60 6060designer designer designeroutlet outletboutiques boutiquesatat atprices prices and outlet boutiques prices reduced reduced byby up upto toto60% 60%everyday everydayall allyear yearround round reduced by up 60% everyday all year round

SPECIAL SPECIAL€10 €10 €10RETURN RETURNFARE FARE SPECIAL RETURN FARE

6/11

*on the recommended retail price.

TO TOKILDARE KILDARE KILDAREVILLAGE VILLAGE TO VILLAGE

Kildare Village FP A4 GoRail2.indd 1

Tickets Tickets available available at at Heuston Heuston Station Station booking booking office. office. Tickets available at Heuston Station booking office. Offer Offer runs runs from from 1 July 1 July until until 3131 July. July. Complimentary Complimentary shuttle shuttle Offer runs from 1 July until 31 July. Complimentary shuttle busbus runs runs from from Kildare Kildare train train station station to to Kildare Kildare Village. Village. bus runs from Kildare train station to Kildare Village. Visit Visit www.irishrail.ie www.irishrail.ie forfor timetable timetable information information Visit www.irishrail.ie for timetable information

Follow Follow us on us on Follow us on

LikeLike us on us on Like us on

KildareVillage.com/summertimefestival KildareVillage.com/summertimefestival KildareVillage.com/summertimefestival

07/07/2011 12:46:17

�� HORSING

A R U N D O W N O F W H AT ’ S H O T & H A P P E N I N G BY FIONA SHERLOCK AND ROE MCDERMOTT

AROUND

FOR BEST VALUE FARES ON ALL INTERCITY SERVICES CHECK OUT IRISHRAIL.IE

ow a Dublin institution, the Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show is returning to the RDS from August 3 – 7. Known for displaying the excellence of Irish breeding and showcasing the talents of its competitors, it’s an event not to be missed for horse lovers. Its 12 competitions include the Power and Speed Championship, the Land Rover Puissance, the Longine’s International Grand Prix and the Hunt Chase. Highlights include a demonstration from the world-renowned stunt riders, the Ukrainian Cossacks. With a further 35 national jumping competitions and 95 showing classes, it’s going to be a great five days of action! But it’s not just about the horses; there’s

something for everyone at the Dublin Horse Show. Visitors will also get the chance to visit over 300 trade stands, featuring the best of arts, antiques, equestrian clothing, confectionery and fashion wear. And of course, the most fashionable ladies who attend on August 4 will have the chance of being crowned the winner of Blossom Hill’s Ladies Day! There’s also plenty for children to enjoy, with a special Kids Zone filled with bouncy castles, facepainting, playgrounds and of course pony rides. To see the full programme of events and to book tickets for this hugely enjoyable family event, see dublinhorseshow.com.

08 Go For It GoR 1.2 1

18/07/2011 12:29:41

(Clockwise from top) Rory McEllroy, Padraig Harrington & Darren Clarke

KILLARNEY S OPEN FOR GOLF FANS N

ow that Rory McIlroy, Graeme McDowell and Padraig Harrington have garnered international recognition as golf superstars, we can be proud to see the best in Irish and international golf at the Irish Open in Killarney this July 28 – 31. Just a week after the British Open at Sandwich in Kent, all of the big Irish names have committed to staying local and will make an appearance at the Open, which remains a notable name on the European Tour. After losing sponsorship in 2010, festival organisers are encouraging spectators to come and show their support for the competition which is in its 84th year. Last year in Killarney, Ross Fisher took first place, but he may have to worry about a certain 22-year-old from Holywood this time out! Golf widows shouldn’t despair; the Killarney Summerfest coincides with the Open, and along with street performers, a teddy bear’s picnic, children’s workshops, and themed trips on the Killarney lakes, the famous Summerfest Ball features live music from ‘80s legends Simple Minds and Big Country. www.killarneysummerfest.com.

09 Go For It GoR 1.2 2

18/07/2011 12:30:23

(Above & below) 'Mad Hatters' at the Galway Races

GOFOR IT

Andrew Maxwell, Omid Djalili & Phil Jupitus: en route to the Vodafone Comedy Festival

CALLING ALL

COMEDY LOVERS

he Cat Laughs festival may have come and gone, leaving a sea of tickled ribs in its wake, but with the Vodafone Comedy Festival taking place from July 21–24 in the Iveagh Gardens, your funny bones aren’t safe just yet! Coming to the beautiful Dublin gardens with the sole intention of keeping you smiling this summer, the line-up features a host of internationally acclaimed comedians, including

award-winning actor and funnyman Omid Djalili, Stephen K. Amos, American cult heroes Tim & Eric, the king of the one-liners Milton Jones, deadpan Canadian Stewart Francis, the hilarious beatbox stylings of Reggie Watts and Never Mind The Buzzcocks star Phill Jupitus. Of course, Irish comedians will also be out in full force. The Vodafone Comedy Festival has the cream of our homegrown crop, including comedy veterans Tommy Tiernan, Jason Byrne,

PJ Gallagher, Dead Cat Bounce, Andrew Maxwell, Ardal O’Hanlon – and indeed many more. As well as enjoying A-list comedy, festivalgoers can soak up the atmosphere in the beautiful walled gardens and enjoy the colourful array of street performers, live music and gourmet food and drinks on offer. Tickets are sold on a show-by-show basis, but also allow access to the gardens and other festival facilities for the entire day.

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UNLAOISED A

genuine family festival, in one of the most beautiful locations in Ireland, the Durrow Laois Howya festival offers a feast of traditional fun and frolics. In the heart of County Laois, surrounded by beautiful woodlands and fish-laden lakes, Durrow is the perfect place to embrace your rural side and learn traditional crafts like rush-work, bow and hurley making, traditional straw and folk craft, basket-making, mask-making and much more. There’s also the original and best All-Ireland Scarecrow Championships, where families can attend scarecrow-making workshops and compete for the grand prize! There are also guided and themed walks, bike rides, BBQs and craft fairs, as well as special events to keep the kids happy. Zamba dancing, duck derbies, children’s talent shows, fancy dress competitions and the Big Family Picnic will entertain the young ‘uns, while for the golden oldies there is a Night of Nostalgia where senior citizens are invited to enjoy a programme of music, refreshments and a tour of Bob’s Museum. It's all happening between July 24 and August 1. For more information on this jam-packed, family-friendly festival see durrowvillage.com.

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10 Go For It GoR 1.2 3

18/07/2011 12:31:04

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FOOTWEAR REVOLUTION Voted ‘Best Fitness Footwear 2010 and again in 2011’ SpringBoost are recognised as the World’s best footwear for walking and running.

WORK YOUR BUTT OFF

SpringBoost Swiss Science shoes are based on natural posture, and have been scientiﬁcally proven to strengthen core muscles. Not only can SpringBoost trim and tone your target zones, but they can also greatly improve your body’s circulation. Top physiotherapist Dara Totterdell says “With these shoes stretching isn’t difﬁcult and boring but easy and simple: You just have to walk in the shoes.”

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Declan Duffy who distributes SpringBoost in Ireland is amazed with the variety of success stories he has received from SpringBoost wearers. SpringBoost turn your everyday activities into a workout

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SpringBoost were also voted Best ﬁtness footwear on ‘THE AFTERNOON SHOW’ recently, when compared with 5 other ﬁtness shoe brands. Style guru & renowned fashion journalist Annemarie O’ Connor claimed SpringBoost were her favourite, and were perfect for ‘pin toning’. She especially loved the black patent ‘Motion’ runners as they look like Prada’s.’

WHY ARE SPRINGBOOST BETTER?

SpringBoost shoes come with 2 Sets of orthotic insoles, 0 & 2. The number on each insole is actually the angle of that insole. 1. Start off with ‘Insole 0’ which means you are at ‘Zero’ degrees. You will immediately feel the difference when you try on a pair as you are standing in your natural posture, compared to ordinary heeled shoes or runners that misalign your legs and tilt your hips. 2. If you want to increase your ﬁtness you can change to ‘Insole 2’ which lowers your heel by 2 Degrees; so every step is like walking up a 2° hill. This doesn’t sound like much, but the beneﬁts are immediate. 3. The ‘Energy Plate’ is the other unique feature in SpringBoost shoes. This is hidden in the sole of the shoe and is great for walking or running faster. 25% of your body’s bones are in your feet so the Energy Plate is ideal for protecting your feet as well, and keeping your step balanced.

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GOFOR IT

FIRST PORT OF CALL A

place steeped in tradition and history, today Westport House stands as the jewel in the crown of the West. With something for people of every age, it is well worth a trip to Mayo’s ‘big house’ this summer – and, as an added incentive for families, their Pirate Adventure Park runs until August 31. While parents will delight in the excellent facilities and the beautiful parkland and lakeside setting, the kids can take a trip on the Westport House Express miniature ride-on railway, a slip on the Cannon Ball Run and then head for the The Pirates’ Den soft play area. With Gracy’s Bouncy Castle, The Pirates’ Plunge log flume, The Pirate Queen ride and a thrills ‘n’ chills theme park all on offer, hours of fun are guaranteed. Elsewhere, you’ll find pitch-and-putt and the all-new Adventure Activity, tailor-made for older children and teens (or just the young at heart), who fancy a spot of orienteering, archery, kayaking or laser combat. There’s also the chance to go ‘zorbing’, which involves strapping yourself into a 12-foot plastic ball and rolling down a hill. If you need a break from all the excitement (and potential dizziness!), you can relax in the beautiful gardens, enjoy the lake in a swan pedalo, follow

the educational tree-trail walk, or dine in Gracy’s Bar and Restaurant. Westport House itself is hugely interesting: originally designed in 1730 and added to by subsequent generations, the remains of the 16th century castle (built by the infamous Pirate Queen, Gráinne Mhaol) are still evident in the basement. In fact, just this year, an installation illustrating the life of Gráinne Mhaol has been added to the area. Meanwhile, above ground, the house’s 30 rooms are a treasure trove of artifacts. Indeed, many of the actual rooms can be considered works of arts themselves, particularly the exquisite Chinese Room with its ‘willow pattern’ wallpaper and the Drawing Room (featuring a beautifullypainted ‘sky’ ceiling). Don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for the Mayo Legion Flag, brought to Ireland by General Humbert in the ill-fated 1798 Rebellion. Summer at Westport House might seem idyllic (and it is!) but, really, any season is a good time for a visit, with events scheduled through the year, including concerts, plays, treasure hunts, craft fairs and Hallowe’en and Winter Wonderland festivals. Westport House also boasts high-quality camping facilities on-site. Go to westporthouse.ie now for more details.

Zorbing at Westport House

59th Wexford Fringe Festival

                      

For more information on this enduring festival see



14 Go For It GoR 1.2 5

18/07/2011 12:54:15

The current Thin Lizzy line up at the exhibition

See Ireland’s Treasures in a whole new light. Free admission to the new Treasury Exhibition at the National Museum of Ireland , Kildare Street.

Kildare Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.

STILL IN LOVE

Open: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm. Sunday 2pm to 5pm. Closed: Mondays including Bank Holidays

BUS: 7/10/14/15/37/39/74 LUAS: Green Line Stephens Green stop. For information: T: (01) 6777 444 E: info@museum.ie

www.museum.ie

WITH YOU T

he Philip Lynott Exhibition has been one of the hits of the year here in Ireland. The good news is that it recently began its second run at the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre in Dublin, where it will remain open till the end of August. The highly praised exhibition, which has brought visitors to Dublin from all over the world, has been acclaimed by a host of celebrities, including Ryan Tubridy and Joe Duffy of RTE, as well as by dozens of musicians – including members of Thin Lizzy, Damien Dempsey, Declan O’Rourke, Eleanor McEvoy and Marti Pellow of Wet Wet Wet. Philip’s old mentor Brush Shiels was definitive in what he said: “Magnificent, majestic, almost mystical... it truly captures Phil’s spirit.” The exhibition is being supported by the Dublin classic rock station, Radio Nova 100FM. Philip Lynott’s birthday is on August 20th, and a special Samba Band tribute is planned for the city, adding to the attractions for visitors. “A lot of people will come to Dublin to catch the exhibition over the summer, and especially around Philip’s birthday,” Mark Hogan of Hot Press said. “We have been inundated with letters and requests from overseas, asking us about getting to see it – so everyone has the opportunity to check it out between now and the end of August, after which it is likely that the exhibition will go abroad.” The Philip Lynott Exhibition features an astonishing treasure-trove of items from Philip’s childhood, as well as his years as a major rock star – including the instruments he played, notably the trademark Fender Precision Bass, with the mirror, that he famously shone into audiences during Thin Lizzy gigs. There are also specially recorded video interviews with Bono, Imelda May, Scott Gorham, Brian Downey and Damien Dempsey as well as an opportunity to enjoy classic Lizzy tracks in a short film in the exhibition’s ‘Stella Cinema’. Some amazing items have been newly added, including Lynott’s personal diary for 1972, which was recently unearthed by former Lizzy tour manager Frank Murray – and which gives fascinating insights into Philip’s personal and musical life. “It is an exhibiition that should be seen by anyone with an interest in music,” Mark Hogan says. “It is something for Irish people to be very proud of.”

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15/07/2011 17:54:56

GOFOR IT Des Bishop, performers from the Wexford Fringe & Selskar Abbey in Wexford

SOUTH EASTERN

PROMISE W

e are, of course, hoping that the Sunny South East will remain just that as we head into the autumn months. But you know what? There’s plenty happening down Wexford way to keep you occupied regardless of the weather. One key attraction is the Wexford Fringe Festival. Celebrating a remarkable 59 years in existence, it will bring an eclectic blend of events and activities to the town from October 20 to November 6. Its 18-day run will encompass everything from art exhibitions and dance to light opera and horse-racing, with a remarkable 250 events scheduled to take place the Wexford Arts Centre, Wexford Opera House, The Friary and the Dún Mhuire Theatre, among other venues. From entertainment and the arts, to matters of industry and the economy: the Wexford Business EXPO, the county’s largest annual business trade show, returns to White’s Hotel this September 28. Themed ‘Driving Business’, this one-day event promises to showcase the area’s thriving business community. It should provide a fantastic opportunity for all attending to meet new business contacts, learn about exciting new products, network and hear expert views on social media, money management and much more. For more info, check: wexfordfringe.ie and wexfordchamber.ie

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PRINCE��

OF THE CASTLE

Our proximity to Bus Aras, Heuston & Connolly Stations has been further enhanced by The Luas Stop on our door Step

his year, Ireland has been visited by a Queen and a President – now it’s time for a Prince. The legendary singer will grace Malahide Castle with his presence on July 30, and has warned fans who plan on attending to “bring your friends, bring your children, bring foot spray – because it’s going to get funky!” The artist formerly known as The Artist Formerly Known As Prince, this flamboyant American pop icon infamously withdrew from his last show in Ireland, so we’ve been waiting with baited breath for his return. The only question remaining is, will he wear a raspberry beret?

Within Walking Distance of Croke Park Stay in one of our 65 Luxurious Bedrooms Direct Dial, Free WiFi, Tea/Coffee Making Facilities MIDWEEK SPECIAL 2 Nights Bed & Breakfast & 1 Evening Meal €125.00 Per Person Sharing

ISLE OF SPOKEN WORD

Located in the heart of Dublin Just a short walk from Theatres, Temple Bar, Premier Shopping Streets, The O2 is a short Luas ride from our front door

eeping that old oral tradition alive, the Cape Clear International Storytelling Festival enters its 17th year of existence in 2011. Taking place between September 2 and 4 in the gorgeous surroundings of Cape Clear island just off the coast of Cork, the event will bring together the best Irish purveyors of that most ancient of art forms, as well as accomplished international representatives. This year’s storytellers will include Ireland’s own Kate Corkery, England’s Graham Langley and Davd Holt from the US. Talks, heritage walks and set dancing are all scheduled for the weekend. Weekend adult tickets cost ¤65 (concessions ¤55) with more information available from capeclearstorytelling.com.

35/39 Lower Abbey Street, Dublin 1. Tel: 01 – 8745131 - Fax: 018741556 Email: info@wynnshotel.ie Web: www.wynnshotel.ie

1 5 0 Y E A R S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y I N T H E H E A R T O F T H E C I T Y

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18/07/2011 12:34:29

GOFOR IT

ON THE

RAILS T

he Luas is one of the country’s great public transport success stories. And what’s more it’s getting better: the service has just added another string to its bow with extension of the Red Line which now runs from Connolly Station to Citywest and Saggart – adding greatly to the convenience for Irish Rail passengers arriving in the station from points south and north of Dublin. The Red Line, which splits on the outward journey at Belgard, in addition to its original Tallaght destination will now serve South Dublin’s hugely important Citywest business campus, which encompasses a golf resort, shopping centre, convention centre and several restaurants. The Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport, Leo Varadkar was on hand to officially launch the line on July 2. He sang the Light Rail System’s praises, calling it “comfortable, reliable and time efficient.” It is a point which any regular Luas-user will endorse. “Since it came into use seven years ago,” the Minister added, “over 177 million passenger journeys have been taken by Luas. Luas has been a great success. This new line will make it even better.” The new Luas Citywest link runs for 4.2km with five new stops, a ten minute frequency at peak times and a 312 space Park & Ride facility at Cheeverstown. For further information go to luas.ie.

��

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Wicklow Head Lighthouse, Kids enjoying themselves & Chester Beatty Library

IRISH ROOTS I

n terms of family events occurring this summer, National Heritage Week 2011 is definitely one to take note of. Organised by the Heritage Council, you can expect medieval fairs, wildlife walks and lectures, historical re-enactments, music sessions and poetry recitals. Best of all, in times when budgets are understandably tight, many of the events are free of charge with concession rates offered for weekend trips to National Heritage sites. This year is also set to feature nationwide photography and storytelling competitions. Go to heritageweek.ie for full details on everything going on around the country between August 20 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 28.

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GOFOR IT

EVERYTHING S

Former Rose, Aoife Kelly posing with her crown & (left) The Coronas

COMING UP ROSES

very August, Tralee becomes the best-looking town in Ireland, and this year is no different. Lots of spcially chosen women – or girls if you prefer! – will be competing to become the Rose of Tralee, as year 51 beauties of Irish descent, from around Ireland, Europe, the Middle East and America, will descend upon town from August 19–23. It’ll be a weekend to remember, with a plethora of activites to keep you feeling rosy! French farmers’ markets, fashion history exhibitions, kayak trips, treasure hunts, Fossetts Circus, puppet shows, street performance workshops and fancy-dress parades will aim to keep people of all ages tickled pink on Friday 19 and Saturday 20. Sunday 21 will see the Rose parade, welly–throwing and tyre-tossing, before The Coronas, Kaye Twins and Key West get festival-goers shaking their booties. Finally, Monday and Tuesday are the nights that the Roses step into

the spotlight, as Daithí O Sé puts them through their paces and asks them to recite a poem, sing a song or get those dancing shoes on, in their attempt to win over the crowd and the judges. This year’s Rose of Tralee is harvested on Tuesday August 23. Kerry will be the only place to be!

MAKE A MATCH IN

LISDOONVARNA

or the month of September, lonely hearts and thrill-chasers alike will be hightailing it down to the spa town of Lisdoonvarna in Clare to find someone to keep them warm before the cold autumn nights draw in. Events include midweek dancing all month, and a racing weekend (Sept 2–3), culminating in the Matchmaking final weekend, where Mr. Lisdoonvarna and the Queen of the Burren will be crowned! Over the month 40,000 romantic hopefuls, bachelor farmers and accompanying revellers will attend, making it Europe’s biggest singles’ festival. Famous local love guru Willie Daly is a fourth generation matchmaker, so he will be on hand to make two become one. With events taking place in the nearby villages of Doolin and Fanore and special accommodation packages available at the Hydro and Imperial hotels, there’s no excuse to shy away from this chance to find love – or maybe just some fun!

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A Taste of Opera DAYTIME EVENTS PACKAGE  October– November, 

Enjoy Wexford Festival Opera by day by taking in our fantastic new daytime events package, including

• Morning Coffee • Lunchtime Recital • Three course lunch at Whites of Wexford • Afternoon ShortWork opera

WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA

Three rare evening operas, three afternoon ShortWork operas, morning concerts, lunchtime recitals, evening cabarets as well as a thriving Fringe Festival.

Dates available:

, , ,  Oct & , ,  Nov

For booking visit

wexfordopera.com or call our Box Office on

  

nOah Stewart and Rebecca Goulden in Wexford Festival Opera’s 2010 ShortWork production of La bohème by Puccini. PHOTO © CLIVE BARDA/ARENAPAL

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IRON

GOFOR IT

DISCIPLINE I

f you’re looking for a quiet, sophisticated and relaxed night in – then this event definitely isn’t for you! English heavy metal superstars Iron Maiden are set to invade Dublin’s 02 on July 30, so get ready to bang your head, strain your vocal chords and enjoy ringing in your eardrums, because it’s going to be a wild night! Thrilling fans with their incredible music and wild live shows for over 35 years, the iconic band return to Ireland to mark the opening of the European leg of their Final Frontier World Tour. The tour is promoting their latest album, so as well as hearing their classics, fans will be treated to their critically acclaimed new material. With support from Heaven And Hell, it promises to be a raucous night of out-of-this-world entertainment. Get ready to be blown away!

SEASIDE PUCKER UP HEIGHTS T

he country’s oldest festival, the Killorglin Puck Festival takes place from August 10 – 13. It’s a thoroughly unique event, where locals go up the mountain and capture a wild goat to crown King Puck. When the recipient of that immortal honour goes into his cage on a high stand in the town, the craic kicks off in earnest. As the oldest Irish festival, you can expect the best of Irish rural fun, including cattle fairs, horse fairs and fireworks. Other highlights include storytelling and circus-trick workshops. Dating from the 1600s, the locals of Killorglin have plenty of experience at making the day special – so be prepared to join in the fun and high junks! Accommodation is available in Killorglin, and the area is close to Tralee and Killarney. Visit puckfair.ie

ust a hop, skip and a seat on the DART from Dublin’s city centre, the seaside town of Bray is getting in on all the festival action with the Bray Summerfest from July 8 – August 7. In its 20th year, the festival will feature Italian street parties, Sharon Shannon, magic shows, open air street performances, Ryan Sheridan, a world record attempt by the Gardaí and homemade pasta workshops. Between the nightly music gigs, cookery and food workshops and arts and theatre performances, the little trip down the line to Bray will leave you full, smiling and with a few new ideas. Royseven and an African market are also on the bill. Supporting multiple charities including the Bray Lakers, Bray Cancer Support Centre and Temple Street, over 120,000 enjoyed the Bray Summerfest in 2010, so will you be one of them this year?

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PETER PAN FLIES TO THE

GRAND CANAL S

omebody’s been using his Oil of Olay! JM Barrie’s famous creation, the eternally youthful Peter Pan, is given new life in a wonderful production which will be coming to Dublin’s Grand Canal Theatre this summer. Running until August 6, the enchanting tale follows the (literal) flights of fancy of Peter Pan and his Lost Boys, as they introduce the Darling children to the wonderful world of Neverland. A story of courage, friendship, loyalty, good and evil – and of course fairies! – this really is a show for all the family, and will take flight with a magical score and incredible visual effects that have already delighted audiences in the UK. The cast incudes award-winning West End actor Daniel Boys, Family Fortunes star Les Dennis, singer Maureen Nolan, Footballers’ Wives star Ben Richards and a host of new Irish talent who play the Lost Boys. With stunning sets, sensational flying sequences, a brand new score and a sprinkling of modern day fairy dust, this one’s not to be missed.

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18/07/2011 12:36:39

GOFOR IT

THE HILL IS ALIVE

Dervish

FLEADH-DA! T

he country’s biggest Irish and Celtic music festival comes to Castlebar between August 26 and 29. As always with the World Fleadh, the main draw will be those marquee concerts from some of trad’s top dogs. On Friday August 26, Dervish play The Royal Theatre with special guest Andy Irvine. Saturday sees Tommy Fleming perform at the very same venue, while Donegal’s finest, Clannad, will bring their blend of Irish folk to the stage on the Sunday. Aside from the headliners, organisers have plenty of fringe activities and family-friendly street performances scheduled to coincide with the Fleadh. Add to that theatre performances and some great shows from Ireland’s best céilí bands and you have the makings of another fine celebration of our craic agus ceol. Full details can be found at worldfleadh.com.

he premier dates in the Irish sporting calendar are fast approaching – come September 4 and 18 the only place worth being will be Croke Park. The historic Dublin stadium will, as per usual, provide the setting for this year’s All-Ireland Senior Football and Hurling Championship Finals, two games where the hopes and dreams of entire counties lie in the balance. Of course, part of the beauty of our two native sports is that, at this point in time, one can only guess at who might reach the promised land, with the likes of last year’s champions Tipperary and Kilkenny positioned as favourites on the hurling side of things, and a host of counties still flying the football flag. For a perfect display of Irish pride and passion, there’s nothing better than an All-Ireland final. If you want to be part of the action, go to gaa.ie now.

REVIVE YOURSELF INI THURLES

n these modern times, it’s not such a long way to Tipperary – especially considering the treasures that await you there! This year’s Revive Music Festival is taking place in Thurles on August 6, and with Mundy headlining, you know it’s going to be a fun, foot-stomping event. Also on the bill is a wealth of established and up-and-coming Irish talent including Ryan Sheridan, The Flaws, O Emperor, Ham Sandwich, Fred, Bipolar Empire, Whipping Boy, Royseven and Jester. But music’s not the only thing on offer. The Thurles Arts Festival is also running from August 5 – 14, so everyone who travels for the music can also indulge their artistic and creative sides. There’s a family street party on Saturday 13, as well as plenty to keep the wee ones occupied – including children’s workshops, indoor family shows, art exhibitions, street entertainment, lunchtime concerts, film, drama and poetry readings. With something for everyone, Tipp is getting our nod of approval this summer! Let’s go!

Ham Sandwich & (below) Ramprage BMX Stunt Shows

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THE EXHIBITION RETURNS TO DUBLIN! STILL IN LOVE WITH YOU

The Philip Lynott Exhibition STEPHEN’S GREEN SHOPPING CENTRE, DUBLIN

THE AMAZING JOURNEY THROUGH THE LIFE, TIMES AND MUSIC OF IRELAND’S ICONIC ROCK STAR “The greatest exhibition I have ever visited!” – Maximilian Fuchs, Munich

“This is the mother lode! It’s amazing, I’m really impressed. I need more time here!” – Marco Mendoza, Thin Lizzy “The video booth of interviews with Bono, Joe Elliot and Brian Robertson was great.” – Peter Sharkey, Louth “An impressive and reverential exhibition... it’s almost as grand in its own way as the National Library of Ireland’s exhibition on the life and works of W.B. Yeats.” – The Irish Times

OPEN DAILY FROM JULY 6th!

Tickets available on the door or book in advance on www.ticketmaster.ie TICKETS:

ADULTS: €10 (Weekdays) €12 (Sat/Sun) CHILDREN: €6 (Weekdays) €7 (Sat/Sun) (under 14)

FAMILIES: €26 (Weekdays) €30 (Sat/Sun)

RETUR

JULY 6 –

AUG 31 Due to Phenom Demanednal !

(2 adults and 4 children)

www.philiplynottexhibition.com

PHOTO: COLM HENRY

Phil Lynott Exhibition ad GR 07-11.indd 1

18/07/2011 10:50:56

GONEWS

MOVING IRELAND

BY THE TRAINLOAD

Rail freight is enjoying a resurgence, as targeting key business sectors pays off

t is a good news story in every respect. Rail freight is enjoying a resurgence, which is good for the environment, good for the economy, good for safety – and good for customers of Iarnród Éireann. While various factors led to a reduction in rail freight in Ireland in the first decade of the 21st century, over the past two years the tide has been turned – and the upward trend is continuing. Volumes grew by 9% between 2009 and 2010 and are set to increase again this year. The catalyst for this revival in fortune is the strategy of targetting what is called ‘trainload business’. In this increasingly successful model, Iarnród Éireann operates the train point-to-point for a customer, and the onus is on the customer to fill or sell the train. In the last two years, intermodal trains operating to this model have increased from 6 to 14 trains per week, resulting in 12,500 truck movements per annum being removed from the roads. This in turn leads to a very significant reduction in the level of CO2 emissions being generated, as well as other

environmental benefits. There are local benefits too. Ballina has become a crucial hub for this business, with Iarnród Éireann currently operating six trains per week between Ballina and Waterford Port for DFDS, and eight trains per week between Ballina and Dublin Port for IWT, transporting ISO containers and tanks. Other infrastructural improvements have contributed to the efficiency and speed of the operation. For example, Dublin Port has recently completed a new rail spur to an area adjacent to the quayside, which eliminates the loading and unloading of trains from Alexandra Road. This will significantly improve the competitiveness of rail freight to and from the port, and it’s expected that the service between Ballina and Dublin Port will increase from 8 to 10 trains per week shortly as a result. Volumes of pulpwood being carried by the company have also increased in recent years and are set to expand by upwards of 30% this year over last. Iarnród Éireann currently operates four trains per week – two each from

Ballina and Westport to Waterford – for Coillte, transporting 3m long logs for the Smartply factory outside Waterford, resulting in over 6,000 truck movements per annum being removed from the road. Iarnród Éireann also operates 15 trains per week for Boliden/Tara Mines between Navan and Dublin Port, transporting zinc and lead concentrates for export – thus removing 30,000 truck movements per annum from the roads. It’s the type of business which is ideally suited to rail freight, with high volumes being generated. And, of course, with the volume of heavy vehicle trafﬁc on the roads being reduced as a result of Iarnród Éireann’s initiative, there is a safety beneﬁt for everyone on the roads. Rail freight bosses will continue to target new business opportunities to build on the growth of the past two years, achieved in the most challenging business environment imaginable. FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE PH

1850767676 OR

EMAIL IEFREIGHT@IRISHRAIL.IE

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SEE IRELAND

GO RAIL!

There’s never been a better time to see Ireland with Iarnród Éireann. With an exciting range of special offers now available, as well as terrific value online at irishrail.ie, you can take a day trip, a weekend break or a home holiday to see some of the many attractions Ireland has to offer.

(clockwise from left) Midleton Distillery, Croke Park & Kilkenny Castle

o get you thinking, we’ve come up with the following exciting choices from the endless list of options available, all perfect for the summer months. So this summer, see Ireland – Go Rail!

DUBLIN CITY DUBLIN ZOO

There’s something for everyone at Dublin Zoo, including keeper talks and animal feeding times. Wander through the spectacular grounds to enjoy the colours of the seasons. Dublin Zoo’s team of expert horticulturists ensure that their animals feel at home – while also making visitors feel as if they’ve entered another world! Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 1 474 8900 Web Address: www.dublinzoo.ie Walking Distance from Station: 20 minute walk from Heuston Station. OPENING DETAILS: January/November and December: 9.30am to 4pm February: 9.30am to 5pm. March – September: 9.30am to 6pm October: 9.30am to 5.30pm

CROKE PARK MUSEUM AND STADIUM TOUR The GAA museum displays a vast collection of artefacts illustrating the development of Gaelic games and the unique heritage of the GAA. The Stadium Tour takes you behind the scenes of

one of the world’s most historic and yet modern sporting arenas. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 1 819 2323 Web Address: www.crokepark.ie Luas Connection: Luas from Heuston Station to Abbey Street stop. 15 minute walk from Abbey Street to Croke Park. OPENING DATES/TIMES: Monday – Saturday: 9.30am to 5pm. Advanced Booking required.

WATERFORD ROUTE HOUSE OF WATERFORD CRYSTAL

The new House of Waterford Crystal comprises an illuminating guided factory tour, a fascinating visitor centre and an opulent retail store housing the largest collection of Waterford Crystal in the world. Take a guided tour, giving you first-hand access to all areas. Phone contact no: +353 (0) 51 317 000 Web Address: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Distance from Station: 20 minutes walk from Waterford Station. OPENING TIMES: Retail Store (April to October) Monday – Saturday: 9am to 6pm, Sunday: 10am to 6pm Factory Tour (April to October) Monday – Saturday: 9am to 4.15pm, Sunday: 10am to 4.15pm

KILKENNY CASTLE Kilkenny Castle dramatically commands a crossing on the River Nore and dominates the High Town of Kilkenny City. The original castle was built in the 13th century and was the principal Irish residence of the Butler family for almost 600 years. It was presented to the people of Kilkenny for a token £50 in 1967. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 56 770 4100/4106 Web Address: www.kilkennycastle.ie Distance from Station: 15 minute walk from Kilkenny Station. OPENING TIMES: June – August: 9am to 5.30pm. September 9.30am to 5.30pm

CORK ROUTE FOTA WILDLIFE PARK

Fota Wildlife Park is set on 70 acres on the scenic Fota Island in the heart of Cork Harbour. Unlike an ordinary zoo, you can meet roaming animals and birds from all over the world, so every visit will bring its own fantastic memories. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 21 481 2678 Web Address: www.fotawildlife.ie Walking Distance from Station: Regular train service from Kent Station in Cork City. OPENING TIMES/DATES: Monday – Saturday: 10am. Sunday 11am. Closed 6pm. Last entry 5pm

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GONEWS (clockwise from left) National Museum of Country Life, Athenry Heritage Centre, King Johns Castle & Muckross House

Gauguin and Henry Moore, beautiful examples of statuary, religious vestments, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics and crystals. Phone Contact: +353 (0) 61 312 833 Web Address: www.huntmuseum.com Distance from Station: Ten minutes walk from Limerick Station. OPENING TIMES: Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday and Public Holidays 2pm to 5pm. Closed: New Year’s Day (January 1), Good Friday, Christmas Day (December 25), St. Stephen’s Day (December 26)

MIDLETON DISTILLERY In the picturesque town of Midleton in Co. Cork, 18th century stone mills and warehouses have been restored to illustrate the fine art of whiskey distilling. The Jameson Heritage Centre, a venture by Irish Distillers, emulates the successful attraction at Bushmills. You can tour the modern distillery as well as the old distillery which was used from 1825 to 1975.

KERRY COUNTY MUSEUM, TRALEE Kerry County Museum is located in the Ashe Memorial Hall, a fine example of public architecture in the centre of Tralee. The Museum opened in 1992 and hosts a medieval exhibition and a section devoted to Tom Crean, the Antarctic navigator from Annascaul.

Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 21 461 3594 Web Address: www.tours.jamesonwhiskey.com Distance from Station: Regular train service to Midleton from Kent Station, Cork. 15 minute walk from Midleton Station. OPENING TIMES/DATES: April – October 31: tours daily: 10am to 4.30pm November – March 4: Tours Daily

Phone Contact no: +353 (0) 66 712 7777 Web Address: www.kerrymuseum.ie Distance from Station: 15 minute walk from Tralee Station. OPENING TIMES: January – May: Tuesday – Saturday, 9.30am to 5pm June – September: Open daily, 9.30am to 5.30pm October – December: Tuesday – Saturday, 9.30am to 5pm Bank Holiday weekends: Sunday & Monday, 10.00am to 5.00pm

TRALEE ROUTE

LIMERICK ROUTE

MUCKROSS HOUSE

Muckross House is situated close to the shores of Muckross Lake in Killarney National Park and makes an ideal base from which to explore the local terrain. Muckross House & Gardens are among the most popular Irish visitor attractions. Phone Contact no: +353 (0) 64 667 0144 Web Address: www.muckross-house.ie Distance from Station: Muckross House is only 6km from Killarney Railway Station. OPENING TIMES: Open all year round. Check website for further details.

KILLARNEY WATER COACH CRUISES A one-hour cruise on Lough Léin in the comfort and safety of a covered and heated water coach will give you unrestricted views of the Killarney National Park. The live commentary will entertain you and inform you of the history and folklore of the area. The cruise departs from the pier at Ross Castle. Phone Contact no: +353 (0) 64 66 27737 Web Address: www.killarneylaketours.ie Distance from Station: Short walk from Killarney Station. Departure Times are: 10:30am, 12pm, 1.45pm, 3.15pm

KING JOHN S CASTLE

The 13th century King John’s Castle is set on “Kings Island” in the heart of medieval Limerick. Overlooking the majestic River Shannon, it offers wonderful views as you explore 800 years of history and life in Norman times. Just as “Lord of Ireland” King John minted his own coins, you can receive your own special coin as a souvenir of your visit. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 61 360788 Web Address: www.shannonheritage.com. Walking distance from Station: 15 minute walk from Limerick Station. OPENING TIMES/DATES: Open all year round. 10am to 5pm. Last admission 4pm

THE HUNT MUSEUM The Hunt Museum houses the internationally renowned art collection of the late John and Gertrude Hunt, gifted to the people of Ireland and now housed in the former Custom House, a handsome riverside building dating to the 18th century. This diverse collection includes works from Ancient Greece and Rome as well as contemporary art, drawings by Renoir, Picasso,

GALWAY ROUTE ATHENRY HERITAGE CENTRE

Athenry in Co. Galway is the best-preserved medieval town in Ireland, and you can experience 800 years of its history at the Athenry Heritage Centre. See its defensive Town Walls and Towers, the restored Athenry Castle and the 13th century Dominican Abbey. Wander through its medieval streets and see the original 15th century ‘Tabernacle’ Market Cross and visit the awardwinning heritage centre, home to the town’s original Mace and Seal, the oldest of their kind in Ireland. Housed in the unique setting of St. Mary’s Church, the Athenry Heritage Centre’s ‘Medieval Experience’ is a unique way to learn through interactive exhibits of weaponry, dressing up in medieval costume and have-a-go archery. There are guided tours and story board and audiovisual presentations. You can also relax in the picnic area or lose yourself in the wooden maze. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 91 844 661 Web Address: www.athenryheritagecentre.com Distance from station: Ten minutes walk from the station. OPENING TIMES: Monday – Friday, April – September, 10am to 5pm Saturday – Sunday, July – August, 11am to 5pm

FLY/SAIL TO THE ARAN ISLANDS Perched at the edge of Ireland’s western waters off Galway Bay are the Aran Islands – Inis Mór (Big Island). Inis Meáin (Middle Island) and Inis Oírr (East Island). Experience their geological formation, historical monuments and cultural and linguistic heritage, as well as their traditional hospitality. Sail to the Aran Islands with Aran Ferries: Contact Phone No: +353 (0) 91 568 903 Web Address: www.aranislandferries.com Distance from Station: Sailings leave from Rossaveal, 23 miles from Galway City. A shuttle bus leaves from Merchants Road. SAILING TIMES/DATES: Ferries sail all year round. Visit the website for sailing times as they vary during the summer.

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(clockwise from left) Belvedere House, Avondale House & W5

Fly to the Aran Island with Aer Arann: Contact Phone No: +353 (0) 91 593 034 Web Address: www.aerarannislands.com Distance from Station: Flights depart from Connemara Airport, 19 miles from Galway City. A shuttle bus leaves from Merchants Road. FLIGHT TIMES/DATES: Visit the website for Flight schedules.

WESTPORT ROUTE

WESTPORT HOUSE, GARDENS & ADVENTURE PARK EXPERIENCE HERITAGE & CULTURE Westport House is one of Ireland’s most beautiful historic homes, with over 30 rooms and dungeons, gardens, original architecture, artwork and antiques, tea rooms, tours and exhibits to thrill any culture-vulture! The Pirate Adventure Park has a water ride, swan pedaloe boats, a miniature railway, pitch ‘n’ putt, plus indoor and outdoor playgrounds. Phone contact No: +353 (0) 98 27766 Web Address: www.westporthouse.ie Distance from station: 20-minute walk from station, taxis available. OPENING TIMES/DATES: Westport House & Gardens: March: Saturday & Sunday only. April 1 – September 1: Daily. October: Saturday & Sunday only. Pirate Adventure Park: Apr 16 – May 2: Daily. June 1 – August 31: Daily. Daily during October midterm break.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COUNTRY LIFE This award-winning museum is home to the National Folklife Collection, representing traditional daily life in Ireland throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. Fascinating artefacts illustrate domestic life, agriculture, fishing and hunting, clothing and textiles, furniture and fittings, trades and crafts, transport, sports and leisure, and religion. Set in the grounds of Turlough Park, Castlebar, Co. Mayo. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 94 903 1751/1755 Web Address: www.museumsofmayo.com/countrylife. htm Distance from Station: 8km from Castlebar Station. Taxi Available. OPENING TIMES/DATES: Tuesday – Saturday 10am to 5pm Sunday 2pm to 5pm Entrance is Free. Open all Year round.

SLIGO ROUTE MULLINGAR

BELVEDERE HOUSE GARDENS & PARK A magical 160-acre lakeside estate with restored Georgian villa, Victorian walled garden, mysterious trails through ancient whispering woodlands, visitors centre, café, and the Sacred Tree Trail to the goddess Ériu. Open all year round with a full calendar of events. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 44 934 9060 Web Address: www.belvedere-house.ie Distance from Station: 4km from Mullingar Station. Taxi rank at Station. OPENING TIMES/DATES: Open from 9.30am daily.

SLIGO ABBEY This Dominican Friary was founded in the 13th century. The site contains a wealth of carvings, including Gothic and renaissance tomb sculpture, and the only sculptured 15th century high altar to survive in an Irish monastic church. This unforgettable sight will inspire and enlighten all visitors. Phone Contact no: +353 (0) 71 914 6406 Web Address: www.heritageireland.ie OPENING TIMES: 21st April to Mid October. Daily, 10am to 6pm Mid-October to November 2: Weekend only, 9.30am to 4.30pm

ROSSLARE ROUTE WICKLOW S HISTORICAL GAOL

This is one of Ireland’s most original interactive experiences. On entering the building, you will be transported back in time to meet some of the most notorious characters to have walked the floors of this dramatic and history-filled building, which had a reputation as the cruellest prison regime in Ireland. Phone contact No: +353 (0) 404 61599/66433 Web Address: www.wicklowjail.com Distance from Station: Located in the centre of Wicklow Town, ten minutes walk from train station. OPENING TIMES: Monday to Saturday : 10.30 am to 4.30 pm (last admission) Sunday : 11.00am to 4.30pm

AVONDALE HOUSE THE CHARLES STEWART PARNELL MUSEUM Avondale House was built in 1777, and passed to the Parnell Family in 1795. Charles Stewart Parnell, one of the most prominent political leaders in Irish history, was born in Avondale in 1846. The house is a museum to his memory, set in a 50-acre forest park with way marked trails, orienteering course, picnic and play areas, and café. Phone Contact No: +353 (0) 404 46111 Web Address: www.coillteoutdoors.ie Distance from Station: You can access Avondale from the railway yard at Rathdrum Train station, a pleasant walk by the Avonmore River. OPENING TIMES: Open March 17 – October 31, 11am to 6pm.

IRISH NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK, FERRYCARRIG The Irish National Heritage Park is like no other you can imagine. Surprises await around every turn, as you explore 35 acres of this remarkable heritage trail. Ireland’s heritage comes alive with the sights and sounds that shaped a country and helped to shape the world beyond.

Phone Contact no: +353 (0) 53 912 0733 Web Address: www.inhp.com Distance from Station: Situated three miles from Wexford Town. Taxi available from Station. OPENING HOURS: The Irish National Heritage Park is open all year round from May to August, 9.30am to 6.30pm. September to April, 9.30am to 5.30pm

BELFAST ROUTE BELFAST CITY CENTRE

Belfast city centre brings together the best of good food, great shopping, fantastic accommodation, buzzing nightlife, new and historic pubs, striking architecture, and legendary landmarks, such as the City Hall, Ulster Hall and St. George’s Market. Other fantastic venues to look out for include: - Titanic Quarter - Victoria Square - Queen’s University - Botanic Gardens - Belfast Waterfront - W5 at the Odyssey - Belfast Castle For further details contact the Northern Ireland Tourist Board on Callsave 1850 230 230, drop into the Tourist Information Centre on Suffolk Street, Dublin 2, or log on to discovernorthernireland. com.

W5 W5 is a world-class interactive discovery centre located at the Odyssey in Belfast. With nearly 200 interactive exhibits in four dynamic areas, there’s no shortage of things to see and do. From down to earth explorations in natural science to the high-tech world of simulation technology, you’ll find educational and entertaining opportunities to explore, experiment, and discover. Contact Phone no: +44 (0) 28 9046 7700 Web Address: www.5online.co.uk OPENING TIMES: July - August. Monday - Saturday: 10am - 6pm Sunday: 12pm - 6pm. September - June. Monday Friday: 10am - 5pm. Saturday: 10am - 6pm Sunday: 12pm - 6pm.

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GOFEATURE

Over the past decade, Irish actors and film-makers have increasingly found themselves at the forefront of the Hollywood elite. Indeed the cast leading the charge in this summer’s biggest blockbusters reads like a veritable Who’s Who of Irish stars, with Michael Fassbender, Chris O’Dowd, Domhnall Gleeson and Saoirse Ronan flying the flag with distinction. But that’s not the only way the Irish are making an impact internationally. From politically involved actors to socially conscious directors, Ireland isn’t just offering up talent to the international film industry. At long last, Irish film is also providing a voice for the concerns of Irish audiences.

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The

BIG PICTURE S

ummer is famously Hollywood’s silly season. Historically, cinema-goers have found themselves at a loss for something decent to watch from July to September. Not this year. A number of essential movies have hit the screens. And the most encouraging thing is that this year’s biggest and best summer films have one thing in common: they all feature our very own homegrown Irish talent. Chief among the success stories is Brendan Gleeson’s hilarious turn in the Connemara-set black comedy The Guard, already a box office smash. But there is so much more to cheer about right now. Brendan’s son, Domhnall Gleeson has been superb in True Grit, Never Let Me Go and this summer’s Harry Potter: The Deathly Hallows Part Two; German-Irish actor Michael Fassbender is also brilliant in his starring role in the best of this year’s summer blockbusters X-Men: First Class – and there’s a highly anticipated appearance as Carl Jung in David Cronenberg’s A Dangerous Method

alongside Keira Knightley and Viggo Mortensen yet to come; Sligo-born actor Chris O’Dowd played the romantic lead in the hilarious comedy Bridesmaids to great effect; and Saoirse Ronan handles the title voice-over in the manga-style animation Arrietty beautifully. Add all of that up and it’s clear that Hollywood and its satellites have undergone a non-hostile Irish takeover, and film fans are all the happier for it. It hasn’t always been plain sailing for rising Irish thespians. Chris O’Dowd, star of The IT Crowd, admits that he felt like the uncool one among the cast of Channel 4’s hit sitcom. As his co-stars became poster-boys for the London hipster scene, he seemed the least likely bet to make the big-time. But while Richard Ayoade went on to direct the critically acclaimed indie hit Submarine, and Noel Fielding was unofficially crowned King of Camden, it was O’Dowd who managed to break Hollywood. Snaffling roles alongside Steve Carell and Paul Rudd in Dinner For Schmucks, Jack Black and Jason Segel in Gulliver’s Travels and latterly Kristen Wiig and

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GOFEATURE

(clockwise from left) Chris O'Dowd, Cillian Murphy & Michael Fassbender

Jon Hamm in Bridesmaids – and currently in talks to join a spin-off of Judd Apatow’s Knocked Up – the actor has found the transition from easygoing country boy to member of Hollywood’s comedy elite far more organic than one might have expected. “Working in Hollywood has been – easy’s not the right word, but in terms of comedy and tone it’s been quite natural,” says O’Dowd, in his West of Ireland lilt. “Particularly in terms of the Saturday Night Live and Judd Apatow kind of crowd, I think they’re quite aligned with that Irish slaggy humour, much more so than British comedy is to either American or Irish comedy. British comedy is much more tight-lipped and derisive but America and Ireland seem to be on the same page. Though it’s weird. I went to UCD and all the D4 kids used to slag my accent terribly – but apparently it’s okay for Hollywood!” As it should be! Not to take away from O’Dowd’s achievements, however, if anything can upstage cavorting with comedy kings Steve Carell and Judd Apatow, it’s chilling out with the Obamas. That was merely one of this year’s highlights – so far! – for the long-established ‘acting king’ of Irish film, the remarkabe Brendan Gleeson, who appeared on stage in College Green with the US President. But first, to the film that has been the surprise box office hit of the summer so far – The Guard. In John Michael McDonagh’s brilliantly satirical and darkly funny movie, Gleeson plays the outrageous and unorthodox country garda Gerry Boyle, a man who challenges authority and political correctness by making a mockery of it. Boyle barrells through the film tossing off offensive jokes and slurs, at one point nonchalantly declaring that, “I’m Irish, racism is part of my culture.” It’s sometimes difficult to gauge whether his obnoxious statements are serious, and he is being satirised mercilessly, or if

he’s the only one who understands the big joke of it all. Or, as Gleeson’s co-star Don Cheadle succinctly puts it, “I can’t tell if you’re really dumb or really smart.” So what’s Gleeson’s take on it? “Gerry Boyle can say whatever he wants,” Gleeson, who clearly relished playing the role says. “He’s only provoking, don’t you think? It’s the shock factor. Because people do that all the time, especially here, and especially down the country. I think it's a tester to see, ‘Well, how racist are you?’ Because ﬁrst of all, he doesn’t believe these things – he doesn’t think that black people can’t swim. He’s teasing. And he’s provoking to see how much humanity is coming out from the other side. And I think the great thing with Don [Cheadle’s] character is that he begins to understand where all this is going and they become friends.” Does he think Irish people have become more racist with the recession? “Well, there’s the practicality of you looking at somebody from somewhere else who maybe has your job,” he says. “Now you didn’t want that job when the good times were there, so they came in and did it. Now you look at them and you resent the fact they’re still working here. That’s the problem. It’s a very practical thing. And we have to – everybody has to – ﬁght this thing of saying Us and Them. It happens everywhere – Northside versus Southside of the city, country versus Dublin. Every time, you have to say, ‘Jesus, do I actually believe what I’m saying here?’ It happens so quickly and so easily. So we have to watch it. We should remember that Paddy wasn’t always welcome in other countries.” Unlike his character, there is no confusion about Gleeson’s intelligence and sensitivity on issues of this kind. During President Obama’s Irish visit, Gleeson joined Daniel Day Lewis, Gabriel Byrne and a host of other iconic Irish

actors alongside the President, and gave a rousing speech – one of the highlights of the occasion – to the huge assembly at College Green, where he spoke about Ireland’s historical attitude to racism, and why we have to resist becoming complacent now. Quoting the 19th Century Afro-American reformer Frederick Douglass and Daniel O’Connell, Gleeson praised the Irish people for our historical tolerance. When Douglass came to Ireland, he stayed with a Protestant in Cork. “He said his own anti-abolitionist guys in America, the guys who were in the anti-slavery movement – the white people – would be afraid to slam him for something he said, because it might be seen to be anti-black or something,” Gleeson observes. “Whereas this guy down in Cork would absolutely eat the face off him, because he actually was colour-blind. He didn’t care who he was, what he said was the issue. And Douglass stayed with him for ages, because of this: he said it was just incredibly refreshing. Not only was there no prejudice, but there was also proper engagement on a level where race didn’t come into it.” It’s not the first time Gleeson has acted as a voice for the nation. In 2006, he used an appearance on The Late Late Show to rail against the deplorable state of the Irish healthcare system. His spontaneous emotional outburst, inspired by the poor treatment his mother had received in A&E, received a flood of support from the Irish public, who loved the directness and passion with which he expressed himself. Given his continued involvement in these public and political discourses, it’s clear that Gleeson has opened the door for socially conscious actors – and public interest has ensured that it’s stayed wide open...

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his sense of social awareness hasn’t just seeped into the work of Irish actors, it has inspired a whole new generation of directors. In many ways, there is a hugely healthy film culture in Ireland right now, with the Irish Film Board to the fore in successfully fostering locally made and produced movies. However, since the recession, money has got ever tighter – and in many instances it is proving incredibly difficult for film-makers to get funding for their projects. It’s not just newcomers to the industry: Oscar-winning director Neil Jordan has been very vocal about what a challenge it was to get support for his 2009 Irish romance drama Ondine, despite having Hollywood favourite Colin Farrell in the leading role. Similarly, Brendan Gleeson has been waiting for several years to see his adaptation of Flann O Brien’s At Swim-TwoBirds come to fruition. “I‘ve been trying to get that made for years now,” he confesses. “I got the rights to it about seven years ago and it took me about four years to get the script to where it’s really right. Now I have the script right, so the past two or three years it’s just trying to dig out support. At this point, everyone I wanted to be in it is in it.” Given that the cast Gleeson has lined up includes Colin Farrell, Cillian Murphy, Gabriel Byrne and Michael Fassbender, one would think that financiers would be jumping at the chance to fund the project. But it seems that not even a combination of award-winning actors, an industry favourite at the helm and a script adapted from one of Ireland’s iconic writers can guarantee a film gets made. “It’s really, really tricky,” Gleeson says, “to get all your ducks in a row, and to get the financing at a time when everyone was absolutely bricking themselves, and nobody knew where the industry was going, and where remunerations were going in terms of the internet, and not knowing where you

were going to make your money back from a film. Apart entirely from the world recession, the whole industry is in a state of flux, not sure which way it’s going to go. So everybody’s being really tight. So it’s challenging.” The current crop of Irish directors are rising to the challenge nonetheless. There is a new sense abroad that – in order to get made in the first place – films need to be seen to really speak to the audience in an effective way. In short, the time for indulgence is over – unless it is really brilliant indulgence! The result has been an impressive array of socially conscious and considered films that are not only entertaining, but address the issues affecting modern film-goers. This year alone, Irish directors Carmel Winters, Ian Power and Conor Horgan have released films – Snap, The Runway and One Hundred Mornings respectively – that address the issues of sexual abuse, the damaging effect consumerism has had on our sense of community since the ‘80s and – in Conor Horgan’s case – the potentially disastrous results of humanity’s collective abuse of finite resources. Receiving international recognition at film festivals, winning numerous awards, and garnering criical acclaim, One Hundred Mornings is a postapocalyptic drama that focuses on two young couples living together in a cabin on the outskirts of Dublin following a societal breakdown, the details of which are never divulged. But though the film explores the individual characters’ reactions to a crisis, it’s clear that Horgan has given a lot of thought to the likely – and terrifyingly palpable – causes of such a disaster, and his film allowed him to bring this message to a wider audience. “I’m not one of these guys who walks up and down the street with a large sign saying ‘The End Is Nigh!’, honestly,” laughs Horgan. “But it does seem fairly obvious really that if you look at the challenges humanity is facing and the level of activity we’re putting in to meet

those challenges, there’s a rather large gap – and if that gap isn’t closed then things will probably not go well. When a society breaks down, all it really takes is for one of the legs to be kicked away, and things can topple fairly quickly afterwards. And of course once that happens, it’s very difficult to get things back up and running again, especially if it’s a wide societal breakdown. We’ve never experienced a global one, obviously, but when it happens in local areas, as it happened in New Orleans after Katrina, everything just stopped working very, very quickly.” Inspired by the writings of Margaret Atwood and Ronald Wright, Conor Horgan sums up the challenges we’re facing. Underlying his work is one chilling and indisputable statement. “Any species that outgrows its resource base doesn’t survive,” he observes. “Unless we change our behaviour in a very radical way, what has happened locally will happen globally.” Ironies abound. If moving from a local scene to a global one is a problem in terms of ecological disasters, in contrast it might just be the making of the Irish film industry. Irish actors and filmmakers have been doing the right thing for years now: the successes of Neil Jordan, Jim Sheridan, John Carney, Liam Neeson, Gabriel Byrne, Stephen Rea, Stuart Townsend, Colin Farrell, Cillian Murphy, Jonathan Rhys Meyers and Brendan Gleeson is evidence enough in that regard. But now a new generation has begun to emerge, bringing both their talent and their political messages to an international stage. It could be a watershed moment, with Irish film finally achieving genuine critical mass – despite the hazards of the recession. And why not? In a typically Irish manner, Brendan Gleeson paraphrased Barack Obama’s famous motto as “Bloody sure we can!” Signs are he’s right.

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GOBOOKS

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CRIME AND THE IRISH SOLUTION

In the wake of the enormous success of Stig Larsson’s The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo and its follow-ups in the Millennium series, PAUL NOLAN takes a look at the recent boom in Irish crime fiction.

he past decade has witnessed a major explosion in sales of crime fiction, with Stig Larsson’s Millennium Series breaking all sorts of best-seller records. While nothing on the same scale has been achieved here, there has also been a huge upsurge in Irish crime fiction, with authors such as Tana French, Declan Hughes, Alex Barclay, Adrian McKinty, Alan Glynn and journalist Gene Kerrigan (to name but a handful) publishing acclaimed books in a genre that had for most of its history been heavily associated with the US and UK.

John Banville (left)

Until quite recently, the bulk of Irish crime writing was to be found in the non-fiction section of bookstores, with journalists like Paul Williams penning highly readable tomes which delved into Ireland’s burgeoning gangland scene in some depth. But fictional page-turners by Irish crime writers were few and far between. In recent years, however, that picture has changed dramatically. Tana French scooped several awards with her debut tome In The Woods; the prolific Alex Barclay has issued a succession of dark, gripping noir-ish novels and generated substantial advances in the process; Belfast man Adrian McGinty’s work (eleven books and counting) has drawn comparisons with James Ellroy and Elmore Leonard; John Connolly’s internationally acclaimed detective novels carry slight echoes of the works of James Lee Burke. It’s boomtime in this sector, and as the sales figures amply testify, crime pays handsomely. This huge growth in Irish crime writing is

explored in Down These Green Streets, a new book edited by Declan Burke – himself the author of several crime novels, including this year’s Absolute Zero Cool – which finds the leading lights of the Irish crime fiction boom examining their craft in a series of essays, interviews and short stories. One of the most fascinating aspects of the authors’ output is the sheer diversity of material, ranging from the supernatural-tinged work of John Connolly to the more straightforward mysteries of John Banville’s Quirke series, which he writes under the penname Benjamin Black. Not all of the books are necessarily set in Ireland either – Alex Barclay’s work is set in the genre’s spiritual home, the US, as is much of John Connolly’s material. “An American setting interests me more,” explains ex-fashion journalist turned bestselling author Barclay, who has made her name with two different series, one featuring NYPD detective Joe Lucchesi, the other based around FBI agent Ren Bryce. “I read a lot of American fiction anyway, and having been over there and experienced the culture, it interests me more than an Irish setting. Although I do read crime fiction that has an Irish setting, for me personally, I’m more inspired by the US. The drama of the landscape and the breadth of it leaves more scope to create different kinds of stories.” However, Declan Burke suggests that the universal problem of crime has led to the growth of different regional crime writing scenes, including in Scandinavia – which has produced the massive selling Henning Mankell and Stieg

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GOBOOKS Brought to book: Paul Williams, Alex Barclay, John Connolly & (inset) The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo

THE CRIME OF OUR LIVES Declan Burke on five essential Irish crime novels DEAD I MAY WELL BE by Adrian McKinty “This is McKinty’s debut novel, and it’s a very powerful and wellwritten book. He always invests his stories with a hefty philosophical element that really gives you something to bite into, which is unusual in a crime thriller.” WINTERLAND by Alan Glynn “This came out a couple of years ago, and it’s probably the best book about the collapse of the Celtic Tiger and the reasons behind it. He kind of straddles the crime and literary genres in that he’s a superb writer on a line-by-line basis, but for a novel that was timely it’s hard to beat.”

Larsson books – and Ireland. “As Michael Connelly has pointed out, crime is universal, and virtually every country in the world is plagued by it to a certain extent,” he observes. “And as Connelly also says, the investigation of a crime is the investigation of society itself. Certainly, in terms of a particular kind of book, the Americans are peerless; even today, you have Elmore Leonard, James Ellroy, James Lee Burke – these are the guys who continue to set the standard. Another aspect to it is that, in a way, Ireland is too small to be the setting for so many dastardly and despicable murders, even though we see plenty of those in the headlines. “For purely commercial reasons, stepping aside from the mythology of it, there are many fine writers here in Ireland writing excellent books, and the feedback they’re getting from publishers is that they’re too parochial. They’re not gonna break out because the books are set in Ireland. Having said that, you also have the example of Tana French, who’s done very well with novels firmly set in Ireland. But in general, the feedback is that it’s not an eventful enough setting to justify the number of books being written about it.” When it comes to modern crime writing in general, John Banville feels there is too much emphasis on violence and gore. “Somebody was writing in the New Yorker recently wondering at the success of the Stieg Larsson series,” he recalls. “And I was going to write in and say, ‘Don’t you realise that, for our time, this is the perfect formula for crime fiction?’ Extreme violence against women, a woman who is herself violent but a heroine, and a hero who is so politically correct as to be completely unbelievable.” As a woman who earns her living writing crime novels, Alex Barclay is ideally placed to comment on this subject. “My first novel (Dark House) is the most violent, but it had to be,” she says. “That was the nature of the book, and that was the nature of the killer;

he was extremely violent and menacing, and just a vile character. Absolutely amazing to write, great fun – and no-one is harmed in the making of this novel! I think that’s okay. My books aren’t very violent, it’s very much suggested. Having said that, it doesn’t mean I’m not going to write one that’s extremely violent, and I’ve got a synopsis for one that fits that description. “Also, I do believe that there is great power in the reader’s imagination to suggest it. But it’s a fascinating exercise in psychology, because I got an email about my first novel, and it was talking about the graphic detail in a particular scene. And there was none! I found it fascinating that I had this ridiculous email about the graphic detail that didn’t exist.” Returning to Down These Green Streets, Burke says that one of the most pleasing aspects of completing the book was discovering the generosity of spirit that exists amongst Irish crime writers. “There’s no community as such,” he notes. “There’s no organisation like the Crime Writers’ Association in the UK, or its equivalent in the US. We don’t meet up regularly – they may well do, but they’re not telling me about if they are! But the response was immediate and generous. The idea behind the book is that for a country with a population no bigger than greater Chicago, we have for the last decade been turning out some really fine crime writers, most of whom haven’t got the credit or the sales they deserve. “And given the rollercoaster this country has been on since the mid-’90s, I thought it might be interesting to ask the crime writers for their own personal interpretation of the business of writing crime fiction in Ireland, and see if there was anything in the responses which explained, or went part of the way to explaining, what’s happened in Ireland in the past ten years.” Down These Green Streets is published by Liberties Press.

THE ULTRAS by Eoin McNamee “This is based on an historical true story, as is most of McNamee’s work. It’s set during the Troubles in 1974, and it’s about an undercover British officer who disappeared and is believed to have been assassinated by the IRA. Given the muscular poetry McNamee brings to this thriller, I think it’s his finest moment.” PEELER by Kevin McCarthy “McCarthy was American-born, but he’s living and married here now. He’s taken on a very difficult but interesting period in Peeler, his first novel, which is set in 1920 during the War of Independence – the conceit is that both the IRA and RIC are in pursuit of the same killer. I think it’s a really good idea.” THE BURNING by Jane Casey “Casey is Irish-born but living in London, and she has built a series around a London detective called Maeve Kerrigan. They’re police procedural stories along the lines of Lynda La Plante’s TV series, but the character of Maeve Kerrigan jumped off the page at me in the way that very few of these Lynda La Plante-style identikit characters do.”

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Xipisan FP GoRail2.indd 1

15/07/2011 11:34:17

GOFEATURE

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15/07/2011 20:13:50

FIRE

IN THE BELLY ED POWER has an audience with ARCADE FIRE’s Jeremy Gara in advance of their imminent return to Irish shores for September’s Electric Picnic festival.

f any band claim to be heirs to the anthemic, stadium rock tradition of U2 and Bruce Springsteen, it is surely Montreal’s Arcade Fire. From humble origins – their 2005 debut LP was originally released by an obscure American independent label – this eight-piece has conquered the globe, attracting an especially loyal fan-base in Ireland. With songs that are both earnest and musically ambitious, they have also won over critics – their most recent LP, The Suburbs, was garlanded in five-star reviews and was a surprise – but thoroughly deserving – winner of the Grammy for year’s best album.

They return to this country in the autumn with a headline spot at the Electric Picnic music festival in Stradbally, Laois. For band and fan alike, it promises to be a memorable reacquaintance. It was at the same event in 2005 that Arcade Fire played their first Irish show. The crowd’s enthusiasm that day was something that has stayed with them ever since. “We’d never experienced anything like it,” recalls the group’s Jeremy Gara. “We went out there and the response was simply astonishing. I don’t know if you were there, but Win dived into the crowd. It was amazing. There are certain shows that feel like the beginning of something new. Definitely that was one of them. When things went so well at Electric Picnic, we knew things were starting to happen for us.” Winning a Grammy was a strange experience, says Gara. On the one hand, the group were thrilled to be honored. At the same time, as a proudly independent outfit it felt surreal to be rubbing shoulders with the great and good of the mainstream music industry. Standing on the podium, looking out on an audience that included Jay-Z, Chris Martin, P. Diddy and others was a classic pinch-me moment for Arcade Fire. “It was a funny one for us,” he says. “We’ve never been comfortable in that world. It would be very bad if we ever were comfortable in that world. It is something totally outside our experiences. We really have no interest in interacting with it. At the same time, it is nice to have your work recognised. Who wouldn’t be honored?” The band is based around the songwriting partnership of mandolin-bashing singer Win

Butler and his wife Regine Chassagne. Raised in Houston, the son of a wealthy oil family, Butler moved to Canada in the late ‘90s, eventually fetching up in Montreal where he met and starting writing with Chassagne (whose family had fled despotic Haiti when she was a child). Initially, they appealed mainly to Quebec’s art set, playing loft parties and galleries (though at least one observer felt this early incarnation bore a more than passing resemblance to a young U2). By the time they recorded the first record, Funeral, in 2004 the line-up had expanded, with Win’s brother William on bass and drums, guitarist Tim Kingsbury beefing up the group’s rock credentials and violinist Sarah Neufeld adding the distinctive keening flourishes that quickly became a signature element of the group’s sound. Ecstatic cheerleading from the popular music website Pitchfork.com turnedon mainstream media to the album, its profile further boosted by appearances on Conan O’Brien and David Letterman’s late night talk shows. By the time Funeral came out in Ireland in early 2005, the hype machine was running full blast. The success of The Suburbs arrived at a timely moment for the group. Whilst Funeral had been ecstatically received, 2007 follow-up Neon Bible was in the tradition of ‘difficult’ second albums. Some critics felt the group were channelling their love of Bruce Springsteen a little too obviously, others couldn’t help pointing out that the three best songs on the LP actually predated the release of Funeral. People began to wonder: did Arcade Fire have another great record in them? “We didn’t worry too much about that,” says Gara. “Or at all, infact. We aren’t really aware of those kinds of responses. We are musicians and our first duty is to the music. A few months after we came off tour, we started to gather, sometimes in my house, and just work on ideas. It was organic. We weren’t thinking that the album must achieve this or that goal. We just worked on songs until we felt we had something interesting on our hands.” With The Suburbs, the question as to whether Arcade Fire still had something interesting to say has been answered – overwhelmingly in the affirmative. What is most extraordinary

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GOFEATURE

Together In Electric Dreams

RUTH MEDJBER

Arcade Fire’s performance will be just one of the many attractions at this year’s Electric Picnic festival. If you’re heading to the Stradbally extravaganza – now in its eighth year – you’re in for a treat, as there’s a whole host of delights, both music and arts based, set to take place over the weekend of September 2-4. Among the vast and varied array of musicians set to perform live are teh reformed Pulp, The Chemical Brothers, Interpol, White Lies, James Blake, DJ Shadow, Midlake, and of course Arcade Fire. But there’s plenty more happening over the weekend besides the music. Fans of art and theatre should check out Craftitecture, the fantastic Arcadia structure, and of course, Fossett’s Circus Big Top! There’ll be plenty happening in the Comedy and Spoken Word zone too, while Electric Picnic will once again play host to the gorgeous Body and Soul area, where you’ll find stunning visual installations, Zen gardens, creative workshops, a yoga theatre and, of course, the Love Letter Stage – constructed from salvaged windows and tin cans, reflecting the environmentally-friendly ethos of what is a very superior festival indeed. With so much on offer, this weekend is set to be one to remember. See you there!

about the album is the way it runs in the face of contemporary music trends. Ask any record company mogul and they will tell you that the long player record is a dying format. Nowadays, it is singles rather than LPs which people hook onto, with the result that more and more bands are threatening to turn their backs away from the traditional album altogether (Radiohead and Ash among them). In this period of doubt and upheaval, Arcade Fire have chosen to go where few of their contemporaries would dare, with a record that is grandiose, ambitious and thematically connected. A meditation on life in 21st century suburbia, it draws on the childhood experiences of Butler, reflecting on the ways in which living in the ‘burbs have changed us as a society. It’s as if Bruce Springsteen and U2 had come together to make an LP inspired by the writings of dystopian author JG Ballard. Exuding a very Canadian brand of politeness, Arcade Fire are the last group you’d expect to find embroiled in controversy. Nonetheless, it has had a habit of seeking them out. An early criticism was that Butler’s blue-collar songwriting ran in the face of his privileged upbringing (fees at the private school he attended in New England exceed €40,000 per year). Then Wayne Coyne of the group Flaming Lips told Rolling Stone that Arcade Fire were grumpy in person and unkind to the people who worked

with them on tour (something they denied in a strongly-worded statement). Shortly after Coyne-gate came perhaps the most infamous incident of all. Butler, leading the band through a performance on the BBC’s Jonathan Ross show, threw an impromptu wobbler, attacking one of the studio cameras with his mandolin. His meltdown was blamed on a punishing touring schedule, exacerbated by the lofty manner of the BBC staff with whom they were dealing. Since then, the band has generally calmed down, with Butler refraining from attacking expensive equipment during subsequent TV appearances. A few months ago, however, they were again drawn into an imbroglio after they used their website to urge Canadians to vote against Conservative Prime Ministerial candidate Stephen Harper. Whilst the band doesn’t make a habit of proselytising, Gara says he can’t understand all the fuss. “We are a left-leaning independent rock group,” he says. “Come on? Are people really shocked we have progressive views and that we wouldn’t want to vote for someone like that? I mean really? The real surprise would be if we had written something on our website saying people should vote for him.” Couldn’t have spoken a truer word... THE SUBURBS IS OUT NOW. ARCADE FIRE PLAY ELECTRIC PICNIC IN SEPTEMBER.

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GOFEATURE

Boys Hood in the

Ireland seems to churn out more boybands than Germany does bratwurst, but that doesn’t mean it’s been an easy climb to the top of the charts for Siva Kaneswaren, the sole Irish member of pop group THE WANTED. He talks to CELINA MURPHY about the band’s relentless rise.

rom Gaga’s Little Monster army to Justin Bieber’s troop of rabid devotees, it’s comforting to know that pop fans are as loopy as ever. Chart-topping boy band The Wanted made their musical debut just nine months ago, but already the polished fivesome have seen their fair share of bizarre behaviour. Aside from being followed on the promotional trail, they’ve had girls chase their tour bus and camp outside their houses.

Disturbing as it may sound, being a pop star sits remarkably well with homegrown dreamboat Siva Kaneswaren. Even though he’s about to be thrown to the lions (the group are on their way to a meet and greet with some Irish fans), the 21-year-old says he’s happy to spend the day signing autographs and chatting with admirers. “Our first ever fans on Twitter were Irish,”

he tells me, in a thick Dublin drawl. “The Irish always support each other when it comes to music. When you come off stage, an Irish lad will always say, ‘Go on you good thing!’ I think that’s really the essence of Irishness, it’s like saying ‘Go for it, you’re doing great!’” The Wanted were put together in 2009 by Jayne Collins, the same woman who formed The Saturdays, but Siva has more than his razor-sharp cheekbones to thank for being chosen for the group. The Dubliner comes from a family of pop hopefuls – his brother David was a founding member of boyband Zoo, his other brother Trevor made it to the final stages of The X-Factor in 2008 and his sister Hazel, an ex-member of Irish R&B group Dove, just missed out on a chance to be in Girls Aloud when she was dropped from the top ten finalists of Popstars: The Rivals for being a few days

too old. Siva may not have taken the reality show route to fame, but don’t worry, there’s a reason you can picture him standing in front of a panel of judges. Along with twin brother Kumar and Hollywood-bound Robert Sheehan, Siva played a beefcake boyband member on ITV talent show drama Rock Rivals, a mongrel show which fell somewhere between The X-Factor and Footballers’ Wives. It’s a clear-cut case of life imitating art if you ask me, but Siva doesn’t see it that way. “It’s actually quite a coincidence,” he laughs, “and it’s something that’s going to haunt me forever! I always wanted to get into acting and that came up. They were looking for twin actors who could sing, and I was like ‘Okay, we can do that!’, so we went for it and they took us on. We always could sing, we have a huge big family

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so I was quite comfortable to sing in front of people.” While the tall, dark and pouty signer has gone on to become a bona fide pop hunk, brother Kumar left the limelight behind to go to college. “He’s gone the academic route, he’s studying psychology,” Siva explains. “While I’m off being a psycho, he’s doing psychology!” The Wanted follow the classic boyband formula pretty much to a tee (nary a drumkit or a tambourine in sight), but Siva is quick to point out that there’s real music in his blood. “I play the guitar, I got a guitar when I was about 15 at Christmas and my brother Daniel taught me how to play. I’ve always been quite musical. All of us would sit down and sing songs and have a big session. ‘I’m a big fan of Lionel Richie and Earth Wind And Fire,” he adds, without a trace of embarrassment. “All the classics.” The Wanted’s rise to fame has been remarkably swift, but it didn’t come without a lot of good, old-fashioned elbow grease. “We worked so hard,” Siva stresses, “harder than any other band. We were doing two school gigs during the day, and nightclubs at night.

We’d have all these drunken lads at two in the morning screaming at us to get off stage. But with all the school gigs and nightclub gigs and the buzz on the internet, we kept it strong and we kept them interested.” Sounds pretty rough, was there ever a time when they felt like packing it in? “There really was, sometimes we used to get on the stage and literally, we’d clear the floor. It wasn’t that people didn’t like the songs, it was that they saw a boyband coming on stage thinking they could make it. We even had a few little rows with the crowd. But now our music’s all over the country, so it’s amazing that it’s all changed.” These days, the numbers don’t lie. The Wanted have racked up 10,000 fans on Facebook, 100,000 followers on Twitter and 11 million views on YouTube, and their debut single ‘All Time Low’ went straight in at No. 1 in the UK charts. “When that came out, it was an absolute shock.” Siva beams. “It literally shot up in a day!” The string-led ‘All Time Low’ was about as melodramatic as pop gets, while ravey new single ‘Glad You Came’ is an Ibiza-friendly club banger. Does this mark a change in direction for

album number two? “We don’t want to go massively older with it,” Siva muses, “but obviously we’re maturing as singers and we want to bring the bar a bit higher, so the older age range will appreciate it more, and to show that we’re actually quite serious about our music. ‘We’ve got about 30 songs already and we’re all knackered!” he laughs. “This time, we worked with Brian Higgins (Kylie, Girls Aloud), Steve Mac (Leona Lewis, Westlife), (techno whiz) Armin Van Buuren and loads of people.” When it comes to penning the hits, the fivepiece have recruited some of the best writing help money can buy, including Robbie Williams cohort Guy Chambers. “Guy said, ‘Go on in, and let me hear your voices’, and we were like ‘Are you serious?’ I was so nervous, I’ve never been that nervous in all my life. All of us were. He’s an absolute legend but once we got in the booth, it was clear sailing. We just went in and we loved every minute of it.” ‘GLAD YOU CAME’ IS OUT NOW ON ISLAND RECORDS.

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GOSPORT

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KEEP ‘EM

CIAN

With the World Cup on the way, it’s shaping up to be a crunch year for Irish rugby. After a successful spring that saw him claim a Heineken Cup medal with Leinster, international front-row CIAN HEALY reflects on a disappointing Six Nations campaign, looks forward to Ireland’s must-win ties down under and assesses the other top contenders. By CRAIG FITZSIMONS

et us not be afraid to dream. This coming September, if it all comes together, the greatest story in the history of Irish sport might be about to be written. Ireland’s rugby warriors go in search of the World Cup, trekking to the other side of the world – New Zealand, to be precise – to take on the planet’s finest teams. And there’s a multitude of compelling reasons why this Ireland team can be fancied, not only to acquit themselves honourably, but also to mount a real challenge for the trophy itself. We are living through a golden age in Irish rugby – by far the best in the country’s history. Ireland won the Grand Slam in 2009, and though that remains the only occasion to date on which we’ve finished top of the pile, the team have become perennial contenders at the right end of the Six Nations table over the last decade, winning far more often than they lose. And at club level, Ireland’s big two provinces – Leinster and Munster – have towered over their European rivals of late. The Heineken Cup, the jewel in the crown of European club rugby, has taken up semi-permanent residence on Irish shores: Munster lifted the trophy in 2006 and 2008, with Leinster following suit in 2009 and 2011. A massive – in every sense of the word – factor in Leinster’s rise to European domination over the last three years has been the emergence of wrecking-ball prop Cian Healy, who would appear to have fallen into the proverbial cauldron of magic potion as a baby. Healy stands six foot

tall, weighs 18 stone, can bench-press his own weight, and is a hell of a sight to behold at full pelt, rampaging and marauding with abandon, striking fear and trepidation into opponents. A background as All-Ireland javelin, shot-putt and discus champion at youth level speaks volumes about Healy’s physical proficiency, and since stepping into the breach for Leinster and Ireland, he hasn’t looked back. While still only 23, and the first to admit that he’s still learning the black arts of front-row trench warfare, Healy is already a phenomenal obstacle for opponents to reckon with, and the mind boggles at just what he might be capable of in five years’ time if he keeps on improving at his current rate. The World Cup now looms large on Healy’s horizon after an annus mirabilis which included an unforgettably dramatic Heineken Cup triumph with Leinster. Still, he isn’t letting himself fixate unduly on the event until it comes around. “I’ll be completely honest with you,” he states. “I haven’t even thought about it too much. Seriously! There’s so much to do before that, and of course there’s always a chance of getting injured, so I’m just taking it day by day, not looking ahead any further than next week’s training. Hopefully I’ll get through the August internationals uninjured, if selected, and then fingers crossed, touch wood and all of that – I’ll be fine for the World Cup. But you can’t let yourself think about it too far in advance.” More generally, Healy isn’t one for setting targets or drawing up five-year plans.

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GOSPORT Scrumming attractions: (l to r) Jamie Heaslip, Thómas O’Leary, Brian O’Driscoll & Gordon D’Arcy

“ O F C O U R S E W E C A N W I N I T.

W H E N W E ’ R E P L AY I N G AT O U R B E S T,

T H E R E ’ S N OT A T E A M I N T H E

WORLD THAT WE CAN’T BEAT.” “I never let myself look too far forward, ever,” he insists. “I never look more than a couple of months forward. I like to play it in the here and now. If you keep looking to the future, you can lose sight of the present.” With the benefit of hindsight, a consensus has formed that four years ago, the Ireland team was under-prepared for the World Cup, not playing enough warm-up games by way of preparation. Healy wasn’t involved at the time. “To be honest with you, I didn’t know too much about it back then. I can remember the World Cup being on, but I was only really focused on Leinster and wanted to establish myself there. I wasn’t looking at the international set-up too much. I watched the games when they were on, but literally that was it.” The first-round opponents this time around are Australia, Italy, Russia and the USA: realistically, any two from three of Ireland, Australia and Italy will progress to the quarter-finals, with the other two expected to make up the numbers.

Healy has played against the Aussies and Italians, and has a fair idea what to expect from them. By contrast, the other two opponents are more or less completely unknown quantities. “I don’t know a whole lot about them,” he agrees. “I played the USA in the Churchill Cup. What we’ll need to do is play full intensity against them, the same way we would against anybody. These aren’t teams that you can underestimate: that would be extremely dangerous. If you’re going out and just expecting it to happen for you, you’re taking a huge risk. And in fairness, I think we saw that four years ago.” He has a point. In 2007, Ireland limped past Namibia and almost lost to Georgia in their two opening games, a prelude to being mercilessly turfed out of the tournament by France and Argentina. No one wants to go there again.

till, with all due respect to the nations mentioned, and especially the Italians, Irish fans will be expecting to qualify from Pool C and march onwards towards the business end of the tournament. While New Zealand, on home turf, will be red-hot favourites to win the trophy, they have a history of choking at World Cups and – astonishingly – haven’t won one since 1987. Other realistic contenders include the reigning world champions South Africa, the powerful Australians, and the Euro heavyweights of England and France. But the fact is that Ireland have beaten all of these nations in recent years (New Zealand aside), and have repeatedly proved that, on a good day, they’re a match for any team. The possibility of Ireland winning the World Cup may be faint, but nor is it completely remote. Healy’s Leinster and Ireland colleague Jamie Heaslip recently told Hot Press that Ireland are going to the World Cup with only one aim in mind: to win it. Asked whether this is a realistic

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target, Healy doesn’t hesitate. “Yeah, of course we can win it. There’s no point going there if you’re not planning on winning it. We always go out with the intention of winning every game, and we know that when we’re playing at our best, there’s not a team in the world that we can’t beat. So, I’ll say it again: we’re going over there to win it.” Are there any lingering regrets over the Six Nations, where Ireland finished in third place after a campaign where they only really found their ‘A’ game in the last match? “Maybe, yeah,” Healy concedes. “A couple of games got away from us, we had a few unlucky breaks here and there, I don’t know if we achieved fully what we were capable of – but there’s no point dwelling on what might have been. There were a few things that didn’t really click for us and there was a bit of bad luck here and there. Eventually, it did click, on the last day against England, and you saw what happened there.” Presumably, in terms of unlucky breaks, he’s referring to a controversial afternoon in Cardiff where an obviously illegitimate Welsh try was allowed by the referee, in what turned out to be a game-changing decision. An inescapable feature of top international rugby is that referees have a huge influence on the outcome of many matches, with some being far more lenient than others in their interpretation of what does and doesn’t constitute an offence. Does Healy research referees as well as opponents as part of pre-match preparation? “Ah yeah, we’d study how a particular ref approaches things,” he says, “especially with the scrum, what rhythm he uses for the ‘touchpause-engage’, but during the game you can’t question a referee’s call. They’re doing the best they can, in an honest manner, and if you have the mentality that a ref’s out to get you, that’s a bad place to be in.” It’s a bit of a mystery to anyone who has never played front-row rugby: what exactly goes on in that scrum? “It’s just pure brutality,” he laughs. “It’d take a long, long time to explain. It’s pretty technical, it’s very hard to get right, and that’s why there’s not a whole lot of world-class front-rowers out there. It’s a learning curve and I know I’m still learning my trade, both with Leinster and Ireland, and I know full well I’m not nearly the finished article yet. I’ve loads still to learn. I’ve been taught pretty well and I’m learning off the right people, but there’s a good way to go yet. I’m not near the level that I want to be. Playing for Leinster and Ireland, you want to be something special. “I’ve learned a lot from guys I’ve played with or against – there’s

been John Hayes for Munster, Reggie Corrigan and Will Green for Leinster. They all have different techniques. Even just scrummaging with them, that’s how you learn, you pick so many things up – then they might tell you, ‘Listen, if you had done that in this position, you would have really had me in a bad spot’. You start to notice it and do the video work, see where you went right and where you went wrong, trying to improve all the time. But the only way is trial and error, playing as many matches as you can.” Healy had a bit of a nightmare against France in Paris in the springtime of 2010. It was a day when everything that could go wrong did go wrong. The Irish scrum was completely monstered by the aptly-named Matthieu Bastareaud and friends, Healy was sin-binned in the first half, and Ireland went on to lose 33-10. “I don’t really hang onto the past, so I’m over it now,” he says. “I watched the video to check out what I did and didn’t do, and what I could have done. There’s a few things that you take from every game, but I put it behind me swiftly enough. More than anything, you think, ‘I don’t ever want to have that feeling again, walking into a dressing-room with my head down’.” Would he enjoy a few beers after every match? “Ah I would, yeah. I like to chill out, go out with my mates after a game. Nights like that, there’s no point going to bed – I struggle to sleep anyway, I’d be there tossing and turning or staying up half the night twiddling my thumbs, so after a good old sweat-out like that, when you’ve been looking after yourself for a while, there’s nothing like letting off steam afterwards.” Do you ever get guys trying to square up to you? “No, never! Sure I’m at the age where people are past all that anyway, and it’s great to be able to go out and have a good time and not get any hassle. If anything, you get a pat on the back and ‘well done’ if you’ve played well, which is really nice and I appreciate it. I’ve never had any aggro. It’s a nice environment to be in.” Have there been more girls hitting on him as his profile has risen? “(Laughs) It doesn’t really happen in the front-row! There’s not too much attention, to be honest. The backs get all the attention, the lads with the nice legs, who aren’t getting battered and brutalised for 80 minutes solid.”

after a traumatic first-half, Leinster mounted a truly astounding recovery, scaling previously uncharted peaks of pace, power and precision in the second half, as they racked up 27 points without reply. In 25-odd years of watching rugby, I’ve never seen a match being turned on its head so completely: what exactly went on at half-time? “I don’t know, I was in the bathroom getting sick! I remember Jamie (Heaslip) having a word – the backs and the forwards split up, so I didn’t hear the famous Jonathan Sexton speech. But I do remember before we went back out, Jamie saying basically, ‘Listen, man up or go home. Let’s get this done’. That stuck in my head.” Could you sense Northampton tiring? ‘We didn’t even think about them, to be honest. It was more, ‘Let’s do our own thing properly’. We’d been standing off a lot in the first-half and watching them and admiring them, letting them play and letting them come at us. That left us miles behind, and we knew at 22-6 there wasn’t much room for error but also that it was completely winnable, and there was a sense of, ‘This is all about us, this is our turn, this is our half to play some good ball, show them what we’re capable of’. We just went back out and hit hard and enjoyed it, and it all worked out for us.”

Did he grow up watching Ireland lose incessantly in what would now be referred to as the bad old days? “Not all that much – I was a bit wild on my BMX and my skates when I was younger, never watched the telly, and I wasn’t massive on watching sports as a kid. Even now – I’d sooner get up and do something than sit in front of the telly. I enjoy watching the odd bit of golf, it’s relaxing. I dipped in and out of the tennis when Wimbledon was on, and had a few beers watching the fight between Haye and Klitschko, but I wouldn’t be obsessive about watching sports. I do a spot of painting to relax, and I love DJing: I’m just back from a holiday in Ibiza, where I picked up a few good tunes.” A lot of the rugby players seem to be into music, with rock gigs and DJing forming part of the extracurricular agenda. “I’ve been DJing for a few years,” Cian says. “The fella I live with, my housemate Gordo, he’s been doing it for years and he kind of got me into it, so he’s been more than happy to help me out. I’ve played a couple of different clubs and was gigging down at Oxegen as well. The lads in Krystle usually try and talk me into getting up and spinning a few tunes.” Looks like the bad old days are truly behind us – in more ways than one. Roll on September...

rguably the crowning glory of Healy’s career to date arrived this May, when Leinster won the Heineken Cup after one of the most dramatic games in living memory. Trailing 22-6 to Northampton in the Final

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GOBUSINESS

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MICROBREWING UP

A STORM Ireland is undergoing a beer revolution with dozens of new artisan tipples coming on to the market. Report: Stuart Clark

reland may be a nation of beer drinkers, but outside of the major players like Guinness, Heineken, Smithwick’s, Murphy’s and Beamish, there’s never really been a tradition here of making it.

In recent years, however, that’s started to change dramatically, with the opening of dozens of independent breweries. These range from relatively large-scale producers like the Carlow Brewing Company, Biddy Early’s Brewery in Inagh and Belfast’s College Green Brewery, whose wares can now be found on supermarket shelves, to micro operations like Kildare’s Trouble Brewing – great name! – Waterford’s Metalman Brewing and Eight Degrees Brewing in Middleton, who are aiming firmly for the wwartisan market.

(left)The beer necessities: the Head Brewer at Messrs. Maguire, Melissa Camire

Hunkering somewhere in between is the Dungarvan Brewing Company, which was launched in April 2010 by brothers-in-law Cormac O’Dwyer and Tom Dalton. “It started where most good ideas start – in the pub!” laughs O’Dwyer, who at 37 is four years his business partner’s senior. “We were complaining that all they had was the same stout and three lagers you get in every bar when Tom said, ‘What if…?’ I’d brewed up a few beers at home and been told by the people I gave them to that they were good enough to sell. “It was all a bit of a pipedream until within a few months of each other Tom and myself lost our respective jobs as a quantity surveyor and production manager in an electronics company. We had a meeting and decided, ‘We’ve nothing to lose now, let’s go for it’!” The duo took their embryonic business plan

to the Waterford County Enterprise Board who, not sure they were quite in the John Jameson or Arthur Guinness league yet, sent them on an intensive marketing course. “It was only after we got the backing of the County Enterprise Board,” Cormac resumes, “that we were able to go to the banks – who aren’t in the mood for lending at the moment – and say, ‘Look it, this really could work’.” And work it has with the Dungarvan Brewing Company’s bottle-conditioned Black Rock Irish Stout, Copper Coast Red Ale and Helvick Gold Blonde Ale finding their way into increasing numbers of pubs, off-licences and, er, rock star dressing-rooms. “When Bryan Ferry played the Waterford Tall Ships Festival, part of his rider was 12 bottles of local beer, and the organisers very kindly thought of us.” While currently concentrating on Ireland, 2012 will find the Dungarvan Brewing Company – like many of their new counterparts – looking to access the export market. “We’ve had lots of inquiries from Europe and the States, so it’s definitely something we’re keen to develop. It’s been a steep learning curve – I was producing 20 litres at a time as a home brewer, now it’s never less than a thousand – but with the help of our wives Jen and Claire, who take care of the admin & PR side of things, we’ve managed to muddle through pretty well!” Also muddling through pretty well is Melissa Camire, the new Head Brewer at Dublin’s Messrs. Maguire brewpub, who’d only been in situ a few months when her Brown Ale picked up a prestigious Porterhouse Beer & Whisky Festival Award.

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“It wasn’t a bad way to start!” the American laughs. “It was a new recipe, based on a few things I’d done in the US and a few things I’d been wanting to try. We’ve brewed it twice and are down now to our last keg, so I think it’s a keeper!” Asked what, in her opinion, gives an artisan brew its distinctive edge, compared to big brand rivals, Melissa says: “The personal care which goes into brewing it. There’s no pressing buttons and letting the computer dump everything in. Here we carry the grain ourselves and measure everything out by hand. It’s a craft in the truest sense of the word.” Melissa has also given Messrs. Maguire’s Bavarian-style Weiss Beer and ruby red Plain Stout a bit of a makeover. “They were good before and they’re even better now!” she smiles. “The weiss has that nice clove-y, citrus-y flavour and the stout has a lovely bitterness at the front end and is easier to drink than its mass-produced counterparts. We’re also very proud of our Pilsner-style Haus Lager and traditional American Pale Ale, which are all brewed here in the pub.” Add in a range of seasonal tipples, the first of which was a Mixed Berry Weiss Beer, and days off are a somewhat alien concept at the moment to Camire. “It’s been very busy, but very rewarding,” she concludes. “There’s a beer revolution going on at the moment in Ireland, and we’re delighted to be at the forefront of it.” YOU’LL BE ABLE TO SAMPLE MANY OF THE BREWS MENTIONED HERE AT THE ALL-IRELAND CRAFT BEERFEST, WHICH TAKES PLACE IN THE DUBLIN RDS FROM SEPTEMBER 23 - 25. WWW. TICKETMASTER.IE.

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GOBUSINESS

BEER HERE MESSRS. MAGUIRE Beers: Rusty Red Ale, Bock, Haus Lager Leading the charge for home-brewed, unique beers is Messrs. Maguire in Dublin. Situated on Burgh Quay, overlooking the River Liffey, Messrs. is the capital’s only onsite brewpub. Established in 1989, they have recently recommenced brewing with Melissa Camire (an experienced brewer from the US) taking the reins. With brewery tours and beer tasting evenings available, Camire has created five excellent beers, most notably a delicious medium-bodied lightly malty Bock beer. A quick trip to messrsmaguire.ie will give you more details. Selected stockists: Messrs Maguire (Dublin) OSLO BREWERY Beers: Bay Ale and Lager, Flying Dog Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale, Dungarvan Helvick Gold, College Green Headless Dog Oslo leads the charge in the West and is notable for being the first and only microbrewery in Galway. Aside from their wide selection of international beers, Oslo also provide the City of the Tribes with some sumptuous local blends, particularly the Bay Lager and Bay Ale. As famed for its food as its unique drink, the Oslo has a large menu and is known for its weekend brunch of pancakes and eggs benedict. Run by Jason O’Connell and encompassing two large areas, the Salthill bar is the perfect place for a local pint year round. Go to facebook.com/oslobar for more information. Selected stockists: Oslo, Raven’s Terrace, The Cottage Bar, Mill House (Galway), Against The Grain (Dublin) FRANCISCAN WELL BREWERY Beers: Blarney Blonde, Rebel Red, Shandon Stout, Friar Weisse The Rebel County is well-represented by the Franciscan Well Brewery, home to Blarney Blonde, Rebel Red and a number of other delicious drinks. Founded in 1998, it is one of

NOW Ireland’s very first brewpubs and the trendsetter in Cork. New Yorker Russell Garet is behind the regional beer revolution at Franciscan, with the working brewery in full view at the back of the pub. With roughly 40 pubs as clients in Cork and a further dozen in Dublin, Franciscan run three beer festivals each year and continue to go from strength to strength. For further details, head for franciscanwellbrewery.com. Selected stockists: Blairs, Cashman’s, Sin É, Corner House, Sláinte (Cork), The Ginger Man, Paddy Cullen’s, The Bull & Castle (Dublin), Maggie May’s (Wexford), O’Shea’s Bar (Kerry)

HOOKER BREWERY Beer: The Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale Names can be deceptive – Galway Hooker is a fine Irish Pale Ale, only available on draught, that’s produced in the heart of Roscommon. Founded by cousins Aidan Murphy and Ronan Brennan who acknowledge a debt to Russell Garet of the Fransciscan Well Brewery, the company began selling bottled beer this summer. Galway Hooker itself, the sole ale the pair produce, is a light, fresh tipple. It has more flavour than a lager, without the heavy taste of full-bodied ales. You’ll find it at a number of locations around the country, particularly Galway establishments such as the Bierhaus, Róisín Dubh and the Blue Note. A full list is available at galwayhooker.ie. Selected stockists: The Bierhaus, Róisín Dubh, Munroe’s Tavern, The Blue Note, NUIG College Bar (Galway), The Bull & Castle, Porterhouse, Whelan’s, Anseo, Pygmalion (Dublin), The Bierhaus (Cork) BURREN BREWERY Beers: The Burren Gold, Red and Black A part of Co. Clare already renowned for its uniquely beautiful landscape and proximity to the once-mighty Lisdoonvarna music festival, The Burren now has its own microbrewery. The official launch of The Burren Brewery in The Roadside Tavern takes place at 3pm

on Sunday July 24. Sons Of Gingerbread, A Band Called Wanda, The Rye and Katet will be providing the musical accompaniment to the day’s proceedings. People can also avail of The Burren Brewery Club service, the first loyalty card system put in place by an Irish pub. Open since 1863, it’s nice to see The Roadside Tavern (owned by the Curtin family) still innovating. For details on the launch, head for roadsidetavern.ie. Selected stockists: The Roadside Tavern (Clare) METALMAN BREWERY Beers: Metalman Pale Ale, Windjammer Another new addition to the microbrewing scene is Metalman, a Waterford-based company who cooked up the first batch of their flagship Pale Ale in Templemore last February. You can currently pick up the thirst-quenching, golden ale at the Revolution Gastropub in Waterford and Dublin’s Bull & Castle. The baby of Gráinne Walsh and partner Tim Barber, Metalman’s brewery in Waterford is currently in construction, with plans for seasonal beers and a barley wine in the pipeline. Metalmanbrewing. wordpress.com has all the updates. Selected stockists: Revolution, The Cove, Waterford Harbour Sailing Club (Waterford), Porterhouse, L. Mulligan Grocer (Dublin), The Franciscan Well (Cork), The Oslo (Galway) WHITE GYPSY BREWERY Beers: Amber Lager, Bock, Ruby Irish Red Ale, St Cuilan’s Ale Located in the town of Templemore in Co. Tipperary, White Gypsy is run by the Shelta Beer Company and produces a number of quality craft beers. Started by Cuilan Loughnane, a native of Templemore who spent time at Messrs. Maguire, White Gypsy offer Amber Lager, Bock, Emerald, their much-loved Red Ale and several seasonal variations. If White Gypsy tickles your fancy, go to whitegypsy.ie. Selected stockists: Finn’s Bar (Tipperary), The Franciscan Well (Cork)

“Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale is hand crafted in small batches to create the perfect balance of slowly developed malt and hop ﬂavours. The result is a fresh and tangy ﬂavour to savour with a light, citrus aroma.”

www.galwayhooker.ie

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Situated on Burgh Quay overlooking O’Connell Bridge, Messrs Maguire’s brings together the best of Dublin’s traditional hospitality, home-made food and drink. And all at very reasonable prices. As Dublin’s only pub with its own on-site brewery, we are proud to have on tap our delicious range of craft beers.

O’Connell Bridge, Burgh Quay, Dublin 2, Ireland T 01 670 5229 www.messrsmaguire.ie

For your added enjoyment we offer tasting trays of our different beers and for the inquisitive we have a brewery tour. Our awardwinning brewer Melissa Carmine is frequently available to chat to customers. Melissa conducts most of the tours herself and serves in the Brewery Bar most Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm to 9pm.

GOEAT

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GETTING HIS

PHILL

Oysters & cheeky glasses of Vernaccia De San Gimignano are both on the menu as funnyman PHILL JUPITUS joins John Donnellan for dinner in Moran’s of Kilcolgan. PHOTOS Jenelle Bickel

et’s face it; restaurant reviews are so much more entertaining when the place gets slaughtered by a critic. However when I persuade Never Mind The Buzzcocks funnyman Phill Jupitus to join me in the historic Moran’s on the Weir in Kilcolgan, Co. Galway, he jumps at the offer. “They sell the best homemade chowder in the world!”, he proclaims, “I love the place”. Not much chance of a savagely critical mauling for Moran’s then. Oh well, hopefully this multi-talented Essex comic will provide the entertainment. He doesn’t disappoint. Here’s Phill on roasting beef: “Do you know what? I did beef for the first time lately, a big old two kilo rib of beef. No recipe, I just went by the man in the shop. I love a roast; it takes such a lot of mental preparation to do it.” At this stage, Jenelle the photographer and Phill’s assistant Vicky fall about laughing. But he goes on to explain, “If you’re a bloke, you really have to take a run up at it. You can’t just get up and say, ‘Oh, I think I’ll do a roast today.’ You need to be thinking about it for a week. Then you shop the day before and on the morning you’re cooking it you get up at dawn and do Tai Chi. Pray to the relevant gods, apologise to the cow and then you’re off.” Earlier, as we arrived in Kilcolgan, I told the English comedian/presenter/poet that this isn’t just your average celebrity interview, that in fact we’re going to review Moran’s food and he must order as much as possible. He tries to contain his

excitement but like most comedians, the child isn’t far from the fore, and it shows. Moran’s has been in business for 250 years and has been kept that way by a seemingly inexhaustible supply of celebrities whose photos line the walls. From where we sit, Woody Allen, Pierce Brosnan and Stephanie Beacham gaze down at us. How do the rich and famous know these places? These well-known faces lead to a brief argument between Phill and Vicky over who can get a message to a celebrity in the least number of steps. Phill wins easily because he knows Stephen Fry and Stephen knows everybody. It’s time to order food but Moran’s are a step ahead of us. Sheila, our host arrives and with the casual good manners and hospitable nature common to great eating houses, she gently guides us into having a huge tapas type-meal with platters of everything that ever waved an antenna, won an ugly contest or grew a shell beneath the waves. But first some wine, we opt for Vernaccia de San Gimignano, La Graille from Tuscany (€27.50), a delicious lemony, nutty white, but not before we indulge in a couple of creamy pints of Guinness to wash down the gorgeous chowder. Within minutes, there’s a second table pushed over and it’s laden with plates of Pacific oysters (Galway Bay ones aren’t in season yet). These plump beauties bump up against a bowl of wild native clams steamed in white wine with a hint of garlic and a larger bowl of mussels steamed

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GOEAT

A selection of the seafood specialties available at Moran’s

in white wine and bay leaves. Next up a platter of garlic breaded oysters appears and then disappears as quickly. Fantastically sweet tempura battered prawns with sweet chilli (the heroin of dipping sauces) get an equally inglorious death. As a serious lover of great seafood, Phill is giving vent to involuntary expressions of gastronomic ecstasy such as, “Oh, man alive”, “Oh my God, the flavour” and my personal favourite, ‘Oh Nellie’. Thankfully, our fellow diners seem similarly consumed and nobody bats an eyelid. With the elegant simplicity of Moran’s and a monumental feast in front of us, we get to talking about expensive meals and epic blow-outs. Phill has seen a few. “I was in New York; I think it might be the Le Parker Meridian – which does a $1,000 omelette. It’s got gold leaf on it and has a whole truffle on the top and lobster and caviar and they do a scaled down version for $100, and that’s got a bit of truffle on a square of gold… again, what’s it about? But I had it. And much as you wouldn’t have it again, while you’re eating it you can taste why it’s so expensive. And do you know what? I get it, I understand it. It was a bit of an anathema

for me to pay that much but I got it. Another time myself and the Missus had an outrageously expensive meal in Bibendum – which was Lady Di’s favourite London restaurant and we went all out – bottle of Champagne, fine wine, three courses, we were in there for about five hours and in those extravagant surroundings, you’re very aware of where you are. Dining should be relaxed like this. Don’t get me wrong, it was magnificent but this is what I love. How did you get this gig man? This is great.” In Galway to fine-tune his Edinburgh show, Mr. Jupitus is performing in the legendary Roisin Dubh, a comedy venue he loves. “I’ve played in Galway more often than any other town outside Dublin. It’s such an amazingly vibrant place. One of the best things about gigging here is the opportunity to decompress after the gig. You know, Ireland is the best place to have nothing to do that I’ve ever gigged.” The conversation suddenly swerves onto celebrity perfumes and what they should be called; this is the problem when you dine with a bloke who seems to have mastered five or six careers. ‘Sweaty Allure’ and ‘Desperation’ by

Jordan get a mention before I cunningly return the conversation to food by ordering dessert. Between four of us, we have strawberries and cream, an amazing apple crumble and a Bailey’s cheesecake for the main man which elicits the loudest and most definitive pronouncement on this feast of feasts. So what did he think of the grub? “Oh Nellie!” THE DAMAGE Moran’s Oyster Cottage, established in 1797, is located at The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co. Galway. Tel. (091) 796113. Phill ate steamed clams €11.70, Seafood Chowder (seven generation recipe) with brown bread €6.80, steamed mussels €12.80 and garlic mussels €12.95. There were a number of secret specials which Sheila said not to mention, but tell her that Phill sent you and you’ll be alright. The wine list is more than adequate with a good selection of reds, whites and bubbles to match any dish on offer. Moran’s open from midday every day and close when you’re full. Contact info@moransontheweir.com for further details.

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A MATTER OF

TASTE Teapot cocktails and foraged food are on the menu as STUART CLARK rounds up all the latest culinary news.

THE WILD WEST DOWN TO A TEA

he good news for Galwegian foodies still mourning the loss of Sheridan’s On The Docks – we’ve only recently removed our black armbands – is that the very wonderful Enda McEvoy is back with a new eatery, which is inspired by the time he spent working for Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant recently voted the best in the world. Aniar – for the non-Gaelgoirs among you, it means “from the west” – has proved an instant hit with dishes like ray wing, cauliflower, clams, samphire & sea lettuce and lamb loin & belly, turnip, pickled ramson & landcress, which wherever possible make use of foraged wild ingredients. “The food is based on our terroir, the ensemble of natural influences that give a food a sense of place,” McEvoy reflects. “Here in the west we’re surrounded by lush ancient woodland, bountiful shorelines, thriving farmlands all heaving with some of the best ingredients in Europe but unique to us. We will quite simply obey the seasons and let nature decide our menu.” Amen to that! Aniar, 53 Lower Dominick Street, Galway City. Tel. (091) 535 947. aniarrestaurant.ie.

f it’s gastronomic adventure you’re after, look no further than Dublin’s Exchequer Street where within 25 metres of each other you can find Michelin man Dylan McGrath’s new restaurant The Rustic Stone, the Fallon & Byrne food emporium – our advice: head straight to the cheese counter – and The Exchequer, a much garlanded gastropub that’s part owned by World Cup-bound Irish rugby star Gordon D’Arcy. Along with some amazing food – their Sunday Roast has brought a tear to many an eye – The Exchequer also has one of the best cocktail lists in town, which is presided over by award-winning mixologist Darren Geraghty. Always a man to push the envelope, his latest creation is High Tea, a “reinvention” of the traditional Gin & Tonic served in the sort of bone china teapot and cups your granny saved for best. “It’s a little bit of Victorian theatre,” Darren tells Go Rail as he carefully pours exactly the right amounts of cucumber sugar, fresh lemon juice, Hendrick’s gin, tonic water and black pepper – yes, black pepper! – into the pot. “People don’t realise that a Gin & Tonic was originally a cocktail drunk by English captains in India. I use Hendrick’s rather than other gins because in addition to juniper berries it has rose petal and

cucumber in it. It has a mouthwatering quality, which really comes out in the finished cocktail.” Hendrick’s is also the star ingredient in another of Darren’s new creations, the Weiss Guy. “It emulates a glass of beer right down to the creamy head that settles, but has no beer in it,” he explains. “Along with the gin, you’ve Crème De Banana, apple juice, lime juice, cloves and, the secret ingredient, barley malt extract. I love the look of confusion on people’s faces when they try it!” Confusing, but utterly divine! The Exchequer, 3-5 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel. (01) 670 6787. theexchequer.ie.

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GOPLACES

W H O

KILDARES W I N S

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The summer brings with it a sense of adventure, exploration — and of course, the opportunity to indulge in the party atmosphere. Bursting at the seams with vibrant culture, rich history and esteemed tradition, Kildare boasts all the essential ingredients of the perfect summer destination. WORDS DAVE HANRATTY

hough handily located on Dublin’s doorstep – a fact that has turned it into a major commuter centre – Kildare is a county that retains a character entirely its own. It has a fascinating cultural and sporting history, as well as lots of natural beauty. It has intriguing towns and villages. It has castles and great houses aplenty. And golf courses and other attractions abound. In short, it is a place which holds enormous appeal for Irish people and tourists alike.

For complete details on all rail connections to towns in Kildare, including Newbridge, Kildare Town and Athy, go to irishrail.ie

The county is, of course, renowned for its rich horse racing tradition and is home to the Curragh Racecourse. One of the world’s most famous tracks, it is currently the site for all five of the Irish classics, including the Irish Derby and the Darley Irish Oaks. As anyone who has ever attended the Abu Dhabi Irish Guinness Festival will confirm, the atmosphere at the Curragh is unique – even its world-renowned training grounds, where some of the finest horses the country has ever seen were nurtured, are special. Nearby, in Kildare town, is the National Stud. Established in 1946, the stud is one of Ireland’s leading tourist attractions and takes tremendous pride in its role in the development and promotion of Irish bloodstock. The only stud farm open to the public, it attracted huge attention worldwide earlier this year, when Queen Elizabeth II dropped in as part of her State visit to the Republic. The monarch was suitably impressed by her tour of the stallion parade, which included the stud’s flagship sire Invincible Spirit, amongst others. Home to some of Ireland’s finest thoroughbreds, the stud continues to cement its place in Irish history with an ever-growing legacy of high level successes. As well as being home to some of Ireland’s finest thoroughbreds, the Stud encompasses the famous Japanese Gardens, which is host to 150,000 visitors every year. The gardens are truly something special. They were devised by a wealthy Scotsman, Colonel William Hall-Walker and created by a Japanese horticulturalist Eida and his son Minoru, between 1906 and 1910. Soon afterwards, in 1915, Hill-Walker bequeathed them to the ‘State’ – Ireland was part of the United Kingdom at the time. Widely regarded as the finest Japanese gardens in Europe, they portray the journey of a soul from Oblivion to Eternity – the proverbial Life of Man – through carefully constructed symbolism. There is a hint of anglicisation to the design, which interestingly reflects the way in which Japanese gardens were being built in Japan at the time. The significance of the Japanese Gardens is not only artistic and horticultural but also philosophical, religious and historical.

They are a living monument to the meeting of Eastern and Western cultures and visitors will find a wonderful sense of beauty and tranquility there – making it a must see for Irish people and tourists alike. Horse racing is not the only sport in which Kildare has excelled: the county also has a proud Gaelic football tradition. In the early days of the GAA, Kildare won four All-Irelands and enjoyed a celebrated rivalry with Kerry, playing a series of games that are regarded as landmarks in the development of the sport. By the early 1990s, the county’s fortunes had dipped somewhat but, fittingly, they were revived by a Kerryman, Mick O’Dwyer. As manager of the Lilywhites, Micko guided the team to a brace of Leinster titles and an All-Ireland final in 1998. Of late, under the guidance of Armagh man Kieran McGeeney, Kildare have been pushing for top honours once again, and in the past three years have reached two All-Ireland quarter-finals and a semi-final. Only the Dubs have been stronger in Leinster over the past five years. Culturally, Kildare has something of a secret history. Of course, it is known as the home of the Oxegen festival – held annually at the National Hunt venue, Punchestown Racecourse – and Newbridge has produced legendary folk singer Christy Moore. It was in the village of Prosperous – a mixture of the quaint and the modern – that Moore brought together the members of what would become Planxty, to record what was regarded as a seminal solo album, released in 1972 and called after the village itself. But dig a bit deeper and there are numerous similarly intriguing stories to be uncovered. A short distance away from the Curragh Racecourse, business tycoon Tony O’Reilly has his home at Castlemartin House in Kilcullen, whose previous tenants included Donovan, as well as ex-Beatle George Harrison on a short holiday and – allegedly – The Rolling Stones! For many years, the band’s guitarist, Ronnie Wood, also kept a home in Clane, in Kildare (and was even introduced by Mick Jagger as “the lad from Naas” at Slane in 2007), while Mick Jagger’s one-time girlfriend, ‘60s icon Marianne Faithfull, lived for a time in the lovely Shell Cottage in the grounds of the Guinness family’s Leixlip Castle – which created its own slice of rock’n’roll history when it housed concerts by The Boomtown Rats and The Police at the beginning of the 1980s. Kildare was always a relatively affluent county, and the number of castles and great houses there reflects the way in which life developed in The Pale, under British rule. Some of these have become living, breathing examples of how society changes and moves on. In contrast to Castlemartin House, Carton House in Maynooth

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GOPLACES (two miles north of Athy), Kilteel Castle (six miles north of Naas, at the foot of the Wicklow Hills), and Jigginstown Castle in Naas (originaly planned as a home to royalty on their visits to Ireland) are also worth putting on the visitor’s itinerary. Given its curious music lineage, it is hardly surprising that in recent years, Kildare has begun producing its own wave of rock ‘n’ roll royalty – some of whom have made a very significant impact internationally. Though long noted as the home of folk artists such as the aforementioned Moore, his brother Barry (aka Luka Bloom) and Donal Lunny, the past decade saw a number of rock acts make a name for themselves, including Bell X1, drummer Graham Hopkins variously of Therapy? and The Frames, and Choice Music Prize winners Super Extra Bonus Party. However, the best known of the new wave is undoubtedly Damien Rice, who grew up in Celbridge and indeed recorded parts of his multi-million selling debut album O in his bedroom in the family home there. In a completely different vein, Francis Bacon, one of the most celebrated artists of the 20th century (not to mention a friend of Marianne Faithfull!), also spent part of his childhood in Kildare, moving between Cannycourt House, near Kilcullen, and Straffan Lodge, close to Naas.

mark nixon

We want Moore: the legendary Christy

has been redeveloped as a magnificent, 5 star luxury hotel with superb facilities – not to mention a world class golf course. And then there is the K Club, a golf and leisure complex, built on the grounds of Straffan House, which gained world-wide attention when it hosted the Ryder Cup in 2006. However, the margin of Europe’s victory over the US – a whopping 18.5 to 9.5 – may not have endeared it greatly to American visitors! The story of Castletown House in Celbridge is also remarkable. Regarded as an architectural gem, and Ireland’s finest Palladian structure, it was bought in 1965 by Desmond Guinness of

Leixlip Castle, to protect it from vandalism. The stables there were used for a birthday party for Philip Lynott in 1977, the night before his band Thin Lizzy played the Dalymount Festival in Dublin. It has since been handed over to the Castletown Foundation and then to the Office of Public Works. It is now available for hire for cultural activities, banquets and similar events. Elsewhere in Kildare, the ruins of historic castles deserve to be explored. There is limited access to Maynooth Castle, which dates from the 13th Century and is located at the entrance to the South Campus of Maynooth NUI. Castle Rheban

ne of the most attractive things about Kildare is its almost infinite variety. Alongside these cultural landmarks, it is a thriving centre of commercial activity, with two of the biggest shopping centres in Ireland – the Whitewater Shopping Centre in Newbridge (the largest regional shopping centre outside Dublin) and the Kildare Village Shopping Outlet – being located there. Kildare Village is a genuine national attraction, with its 60 designer outlets offering a cornucopia of prestige brands at great prices. There is no better time to have a look: July has seen Kildare Village transformed into party central as

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Golf, ﬁshing, Japanese / National Stud, Lullymore Heritage Park, are all nearby. Famous racecourses, the Curragh, Naas, & Punchestown are only a short distance from Kildare. Also visit Kildare Village for chic designer outlet shopping.

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The River Barrow & White’s Castle in Athy

the Summertime Festival hits the facility for a spree of entertainment, shopping, fashion and incredible Irish artisan food that lasts till the middle of August. The party started with a bang on July 1 as the Opening Fiesta weekend set the upbeat and joyous tone, with a pulsating DJ set from model and reality TV star Vogue Williams. Combining a mouth-watering menu of free and fun entertainment in the form of live music and street theatre with up to 60% discounts in all the boutiques, this is the perfect antidote to the recession blues. What’s more, Irish Rail have been offering a special €10 return fare until the end of July – so now is surely the time to make the trip!

It isn’t all about designer gear. If you’re feeling peckish from all the partying, you can tantalise those tastebuds by sampling the delightful artisan produce proudly provided by Good Food Ireland. A showcase of regional speciality dishes sourced from Ireland’s top restaurants, hotels, cookery schools and food producers, Good Food Ireland’s pop-up presence is a more than welcome one in the Village. Not only can you enjoy the delicious delights on offer, but you can also meet the men and women behind the dishes, from the chefs and bakers to the chocolate makers! Keeping things Irish, why not drape yourself

in the garments of some of the nation’s finest designers? Among Kildare Village’s 60 designer boutiques, you’ll find outlets for Deborah Veale, Joanne Hynes, Quin & Donnelly and Fran and Jane. If it’s a sense of self-discovery you crave, you can follow in the esteemed footsteps of President Barack Obama by tracing your ancestral roots. In partnership with the Irish Family History Foundation, Homegrown launched Kildare Village’s inaugural genealogy sessions – a fun and useful activity that gives you the chance to delve deep into your family tree and perhaps even find that missing apostrophe you never knew your name had! Newbridge, on the banks of the River Liffey, is among the county’s most important towns. The second largest after Naas, with a population of almost 20,000, it boasts a thriving cultural scene. The excellent Riverbank Arts Centre offers a host of exciting events for all ages between July and September. Creative children and teenagers can engage in workshops relating to arts and crafts, digital media and drama and music. Lovers of theatre are spoilt for choice with a rich variety of comedy and drama on offer. A sell-out smash at the Dublin Absolut Fringe Festival, Zocorro, Rose Of Tralee – which debuts in August – offers a satirical take on what really goes on behind the scenes at the famous festival, and pulls no punches in its bid to make audiences cackle. September provides food for the more dramatic soul with Fight Night – a gripping threatrical saga charting the comeback of failed amateur boxer Dan Coyle Jr. as he aims to go out swinging. Finally, Town Hall Theatre Galway presents an adaptation of Brian O’Friel’s Faith Healer opening on September 29. Also on the agenda is a superb music line-up, including Lisa Hannigan (July 30), The Gloaming (August 25), and a collective of excellent musicians including Martin Hayes, Denis Cahill and Iarla O’Lionaird.

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GOPLACES LEARN THE LANGUAGE KILDARE STYTLE! Interested in learning or mastering the English language? Then look no further than the Avanti Language Institute in Naas. The Institute was established by a team of professionals with over two decades of experience of English language training at the highest level. With an open-door policy that grants students constant access to a dynamic team of helpful and enthusiastic staff, the Institute offers a friendly, encouraging and productive environment that benefits the development of students’ skills and individual personalities. A wide range of courses are on offer. A diverse set of lesson plans are also available with students being given the option of immersing themselves deep in Irish culture – whether by indulging in a spot of golf, learning to play traditional Irish music, doing horse-riding lessons or getting acquainted with nature via a stay on a countryside farm.

or many people, Kildare is seen as a great place to escape to for a few days – and why not? It’s close enough to the capital not to require too much of an effort but far enough to feel like a different world. In addition to the 5 star luxury of the likes of the K Club and Carton House, and the 4 Star opulence of Barberstown Castle, there are plentiful places where you can lay your head at very reasonable prices. The four-star Clanard Court Hotel is a fine example: only 45 minutes from Dublin and one kilometre from Athy town, it combines a modern yet homely aesthetic with a luxurious setting. The service is personal and attentive and the hotel has conference rooms for business meetings, banqueting suites perfect for receptions and 38 lavishly decorated guest rooms. There are also beautifully landscaped gardens making it feel like a real getaway. Golfers can avail of a free round in Cardenton House Golf Club, set in nicely maturing parkland

on the grounds of the hotel. Essentially a Par 3, 18-hole course (16 Par-3 holes, and 2 Par-4) on a 50-acre site, it is situated alongside the Grand Canal overlooking the beautiful Kildare countryside. Just watch out for the bunkers and water features! Located in Johnstownbridge, near the KildareMeath border, The Hamlet Court Hotel provides a warm and cosy atmosphere for its guests. Now in its 50th year of business, the Hamlet projects a true sense of character and charm, creating the kind of intimate setting that can only be offered by a fine boutique hotel in rural surroundings. Its close proximity to Dublin city centre offers the perfect balance combining a quick and easy route to the nation’s capital with the feeling of having left the hustle and bustle behind. Steeped in history and tradition, the Silken Thomas Bar and Restaurant aims to cater to every possible need and whim. Located in the

heart of Kildare town it has a proud motto of “Eat, Drink, Dance, Sleep” – you can do it all here, folks! A number of different attractions nestle together under the Silken Thomas banner. You can wine and dine in the lavish 60-seater Chapter 16 restaurant, which offers excellent food and notably good value. Steaks aside, all of the main courses come in at under €20, while all the wines on the list are priced at under €30. There are also theree bars – traditional Irish pub Lils, sports bar Squires and modern lounge, Flanagan’s – to relax in before dancing the night away in the award-winning state-of-the-art Tigerlily nightclub. And finally, the only way to unwind after such a fun-filled evening is to sleep it all off in the plush environs of the 18-bedroom Lord Edward suite. What more could you ask for? The bottom line? Whatever you decide to do in Kildare, you can rest assured it will be an unforgettable experience. Now, where’s the train timetable?

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THY KINGDOM COME The ‘Kingdom’ of Kerry is widely regarded as the jewel in Ireland’s tourism crown... and for good reason! Eamonn Seoige samples the delights of its largest town, Tralee.

he mere mention of the word Kerry evokes images of breathtaking scenery, outdoor pursuits and a unique spirit and atmosphere. An ideal base for exploring this fabulous destination is of course Tralee, nestled in the heart of the county. Kerry’s largest town sits at the entrance to the majestic Dingle peninsula and is within easy reach of many other attractions, including Killarney National Park and the world famous Ring of Kerry. However, Trá Lí is also a worthy destination in its own right! Founded by the Normans in the 13th century, Tralee was once the seat of the Earl of Desmond. The modern town plan was conceived in the 19th century and today Tralee retains many elegant reminders from the Georgian era. The town’s storied past reflects Ireland’s turbulent history, most recently during the War of Independence and subsequent Irish Civil War. History anoraks will make a bee-line for the Kerry County Museum, housed in the grandiose Ashe Memorial Hall in the town’s centre. Among its chief exhibits are Daniel O’Connell’s duelling pistols, a re-enactment of medieval Tralee and a permanent display celebrating the exploits of legendary explorer and Kerryman Tom Crean. This hugely entertaining museum houses a vast collection of artefacts, dating back to the arrival of the first settlers in Mesolithic times. It succeeds in successfully capturing the cultural and historical wealth of this famed county. Fans of folk culture will feel right at home at Siamsa Tíre, Ireland’s National Folk Theatre. The theatre hosts a busy year-round programme,

promoting the regions rich cultural heritage. It’s a fun and informative way to learn more about this fascinating area. Mums fear not, kids are well catered for too! The number one destination for families is the Aqua Dome, a large indoor waterpark, where children of all ages can experience the rush of river rapids, surf waves or simply unwind in relaxing spa pools. After a hard day’s trekking it’s the ideal place to kick back and splash around! Golfing aficionados are spoilt for choice with many first-rate courses within easy reach. The charming Tralee Golf Club was designed by none other than the legendary Arnold Palmer and is a worthy challenge for any handicapper. If your game’s in really good nick, why not do a Bill Clinton and tackle Ballybunion’s peerless ‘Old Course’? It’s rated in the world’s top ten and regarded by renowned golfer Tom Watson as “the best in the world.” If you fancy stretching your legs there are numerous picturesque walking and cycle routes in the immediate vicinity. The woodland pathways of Ballyseedy and Scotia’s Glen are especially scenic and only a short spin form the town centre. Social butterflies are in for a treat in Tralee! The town is home to some great old-style pubs and fine dining options are plentiful. Amongst the highlights is Kirby’s Brogue Inn, an atmospheric bar on Rock Street, which also serves up fantastic steak and seafood year-round. In Tralee, all age groups are catered for. From the pumping tunes and youthful clientele of Ruairi’s on The Square, to the calmer surrounds of The Cottage and Town & Country, there’s something to suit everyone. For a fun night out with a twist, Kingdom

Greyhound Stadium is hard to beat. Fine food and drink is served up in the Grandstand restaurant, with three and four course meal options available. Everyone is catered for, from families to large groups looking to kick off the night in style! Races take place every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday from 8pm. If you want to sample Tralee in party mode then plan a trip around one of its annual festivals. The daddy of them all is of course the Rose of Tralee, which takes place this year from August 19 to 23. Aside from the pageantry in the Dome there’s loads for the kids from street theatre to circus performances and a funfair. The annual Kerry Film Festival is scheduled for early November and celebrates the art of short-film making. The event attracts entries from around the globe and is regularly adjudicated by famous faces such as Gabriel Byrne and Liam Neeson. Where to stay? Tralee offers a broad spectrum of accommodation for all budgets and requirements. If you long for the luxurious comforts of a lavish hotel then you’re in luck! Amongst the best are the Brandon, Ballygarry House and the modern chic of the Manor West Hotel. For a taste of real Kerry hospitality there are multiple first-rate guesthouses within easy walk of the town centre. If you fancy a more hands-on holiday then self-catering options are also available, while camping and camper fans are welcomed at the award-winning Woodlands Park facility. This fantastic location boasts the full-suite of modern camping facilities. For comprehensive information on everything on offer in Tralee, check out holidaytralee.com.

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GOPLACES

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GO DESTINATION: WEXFORD

MYSTERY TRAIN

Best-selling author PHILOMENA LYNOTT has been travelling all over Ireland promoting her No. 1 book My Boy. But her favourite journey is the one from Dublin to Wexford.

As a result of its No. 1 success, Philomena has been invited to sign copies, in bookshops all over Ireland – and she has travelled everywhere on this amazing journey by train. “As a mode of transport I’ve always found trains much nicer than cars, buses or airplanes,” Philomena explains. “Cars get stuck in traffic, buses are invariably cramped and airplane travel has become decidedly troublesome since security checks made queuing even longer and more tedious than ever. So I love to forget the car and go by train.” With My Boy nestling at No. 1 in the Irish Bestsellers chart for almost two months, she has had a lot of travelling to do – to book signings, gigs, literary festivals and the like. “On a train you generally have lots more room,” she says. “Maybe even a table – and you can walk around, read, talk, listen to the radio, write, enjoy a coffee and a snack and even fall asleep if the fancy takes you! All of which makes it a wonderful way to travel!” Given that she’s railed it to signings in Waterford, Cork, Wexford, Kilkenny, Limerick and elsewhere, I wonder which trip gets the number one vote from the country’s No. 1 book-seller? “The TV travel presenter Michael Palin described the Dublin-Rosslare route as one of his favourite train journeys in the whole world, and it’s my favourite Irish rail journey too,” she divulges. “It’s no wonder that he liked it so much, for this beautiful trip has so much variety. You start off in the heart of Dublin and travel out along the coast, and on through suburbs like Blackrock and Monkstown. Then it takes you through lovely fields and forests. It travels along the Avoca River and the Slaney, and beside alluring stretches of the Irish Sea, including the seaside at Bray and Greystones. Along the section heading towards Wicklow you have the sea on one side and on the other you can see the slopes of the Wicklow Hills. It’s lovely.” And then there are the wonderful people you meet. “You never know who you might get to talk to,” she adds. “For example, on the way down to Wexford for my book signing at the Book Centre in Wexford, I got chatting to these two brothers, Patrick and Andrew Ross from Castlebridge. They told me all about Wexford and gave me lots of advice as to where to go and what to see. They were so nice that when their father

RUTH MEDJBER

ne of the most striking literary successes in Ireland so far this year is My Boy. Written by Philomena Lynott (with Jackie Hayden) it tells her complete life story – a powerful and heartbreaking saga that recounts from a mother’s perspective the tragic story of her rock star son Philip Lynott. But there is redemption too in this tale, as Philomena for the first time ever reveals the truth about the birth of the brother and sister Philip never knew – and how she has been reunited with them in recent years.

met them at O’Hanrahan Station in Wexford they insisted on delivering us in their own car to White’s Hotel! Where else would that happen to you except on a train?” There is something uniquely contemplative about train journeys. As Philomena explains it, “I love looking out at the changing landscape. On the Wexford run, one minute you are going past the well-manicured grounds of Woodenbridge golf course, and then you’re going through the lovely woods at Avondale, where the Irish patriot Charles Stewart Parnell lived. I believe the house is now a museum to his memory, so you a get a bit of Irish history as well. “This area was the inspiration for a lovely song by Thomas Moore called ‘The Meeting Of The Waters’, which he wrote about 200 years ago. Along other parts of the track you see herds of sheep and cattle, and sometimes rabbits will run off scared when the train comes along. There’s old cottages, some of them maybe hundreds of years old. You imagine other worlds, and the life

stories that attach to these places.” Philomena loves the different insight it gives you into places too. “From the train you get to see a totally different side of a town than you ever see in a car. For example, I always look out for the spires of the churches in Enniscorthy and Gorey,” she says. But there is one thing about trains that still puzzles her. “I’ve always wondered about our tendency to wave at trains,” she says, “Nobody ever waves at passing lorries or at vans or buses, but we always wave at trains. I suppose I’ll just have to keep using the train until I get an answer to that one!” MY BOY – THE TRUE STORY OF PHILIP LYNOTT AND THE FAMILY HE NEVER KNEW, BY PHILOMENA LYNOTT WITH JACKIE HAYDEN, IS OUT NOW. THE PHILIP LYNOTT EXHIBITION RUNS IN STEPHEN’S GREEN SHOPPING CENTRE, DUBLIN UNTIL AUGUST 31.

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GOFASHION

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF

SUMMERFASHION THE IRISH SUN MAY COME AND GO, BUT STYLE IS HERE TO STAY. THIS SUMMER, ROE McDERMOTT GIVES THE LOWDOWN ON HOW TO LIVEN UP YOUR WARDROBE WITH SEXY SUMMER SUITS, FLIRTY FEVERISH FASHION, CONTRASTING COUTURE AND MOULIN ROUGE MADNESS. PLUS: YOUR ALL IMPORTANT GUIDE TO AVOIDING SUMMER SALE SHOPPING REGRETS!

HEAT WAVE Okay, so it’s Ireland and the weather can’t exactly be depended on, but that doesn’t mean you can’t bring a bit of heat to your wardrobe. Bright prints, citrus colours and kitschy patterns lend flirty, feverish fun to your seasonal ensembles. To keep the look from straying into garish territory, make sure you go for classy, light, floaty fabrics (1) that are well-cut and flattering. Or if the fullon flirty fabric is a bit too much for you, play with summer-themed accessories such as straw hats (2), bags in bright designs or animal prints (3) and cute kitschy jewellery (4) – and send temperatures soaring. SUITED AND BOOTED Last season was all about the sexy secretary look with nipped-in waists and '50s skirts a la Mad Men, but now it’s time to update your work-wear by bringing your womanly wiles to the classic man’s suit! Yes, you read that right. No longer the boring, dreaded uniform of your day-job, a suit can be given a fresh modern twist by simply playing with silhouettes, sexy fabrics and sassy accessories. Short, shrunken tuxedo jackets give a modern update to a silhouette, and also flatter your figure by drawing attention to your waist. Or, if you prefer an oversized boyfriend blazer, try wearing a corset top with flowing formal trousers or team thigh-high boots with skinny jeans for a look that gives full coverage but is still undeniably sexy. Work-wear shorts have been huge on the catwalk this year, and are a great

way of showing off your newly (possibly fake) tanned pins, so go for flattering cuts and if you’re feeling daring, try some leather for biker workwear chic (5). Or if your workplace is a little more conservative, either pick a classic suit in white (6); make like Carrie Bradshaw and accessorise dark suits with scarves, corsages (7) or indeed vintage handkerchiefs, so neither the office fashionistas nor the boss will have a bad word to say about you. CONTRASTING COUTURE If the bright colours and crazy patterns invading the summer collections are a bit too 'Casual Friday' for your conservative workplace, or you prefer seeing your wardrobe in black and white, bring some magic to your monochrome with bold, optical illusion-inducing prints (8, 9). Team contrasting patterns together for a look that’s very Thoroughly Modern Millie, tying pieces together with block-colour accessories. Be ready to cross a few eyes as well as raising some eyebrows, and reap the benefits of hypnotising everyone around you. “You are getting sleeeepy, you want to give me a discount on these shooooes.” MOULIN ROUGE MADNESS There’s a reason why kids and adults alike love the summer: it’s the season to play. And coming to the catwalks this summer and autumn is the most playful, teasing look imaginable – yes ladies, this summer you can can-can too! Haute couture

designers are embracing the wildness of la vie de bohème, and thankfully it’s a really easy look to copy. Look for skirts with layers of ruffles or tulle, and layer layer layer for a silhouette that demands to be swirled and twirled (10). To soften the look, stick to light palettes or seek out high-collared shirts with ruffled details (11), or corset tops to bring a bit of cabaret to your career woman couture. Team with short jackets, fascinator hats, corsages and striped tights for this indulgent and eccentric look. Don’t forget to flash those ankles and your red high heels! (12). SUMMER SALE SMARTS It’s a secret that shops don’t want you to know: most purchases in the summer sales tend to be of cheap, neon coloured items that you’re convinced are so cute that you’ll wear them every summer, before banishing them to the back of your wardrobe forever. So this summer, use the sales instead to fill your wardrobe with general staples that will serve you well all year, every year – or at least till they fray around the edges. Every woman should have a classic white shirt – or a nude shirt for a sexy update (13) – a terrific tuxedo jacket (14), a sexy, figure-hugging pencil skirt, a body-con dress and pair of leglengthening nude high heels (15). These items can be mixed and matched throughout the year and will never go out of style, so look out for well-cut, tailored designer items that are finally affordable in the sales. You won’t regret it – and if you do, blame us.

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Monochrome stripe sheer blouse ¤220 Jaeger, Black slim leg trousers ¤96 Untold, Yellow patent ‘Suzie’ frame clutch ¤45 Therapy, White ‘Bobble’ ring ¤45 Ted Baker, HOUSE OF FRASER

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GOFASHION

01.

02.

03.

04.

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05.

06.

(01) Black Leather Shorts ¤80, ASOS (02) Straw stetson ¤22,

HOUSE OF FRASER

(03) Black and White Ruffle Shirt ¤25, BEYOND RETRO (04) San Lorenzo Frill Maxi Skirt ¤305, MONSOON (05) Fitted longline silk wool blazer ¤156, Long sleeve tunic dress ¤115, WAREHOUSE (06) Blazer ¤84, Top ¤46, Trousers ¤60, WAREHOUSE (07) Jermaine Patent Platform Loafer ¤130, FRENCH CONNECTION (08) Leopard Ring ¤20, ACCESSORIZE (09) Corsage drape dress ¤84.50, LIPSY (10) Animal Cross Body ¤22, AWEAR (11) Nude Lace Insert Blouse ¤35,

07.

08.

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AWEAR

11.

STOCKISTS ACCESSORIZE 23D Jervis Shopping Centre, Mary Street, Dublin 1

AWEAR 26 Grafton Street, Dublin 2

10-12 Williamsgate Street, Co. Galway

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Edward Square, Barrack Lane, Co. Galway

BEYOND RETRO beyondretro.com FRENCH CONNECTION 10 Powerscourt Centre, Dublin Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16

HOUSE OF FRASER Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16 LIPSY 36-37 Level 1, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16 39 Oliver Plunkett Street, Co. Cork

86 Patrick Street, Co. Cork

Unit 26 Garryowen Mall, Crescent Shopping Centre, Dooradoyle, Co. Limerick

110 St. Patrick Street, Co. Cork

ASOS www.asos.co.uk.

69 -71 William Street, Co. Limerick

2 Church Lane, Market Street, Co. Galway

MONSOON 64 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 10/12 Williamsgate Street, Co. Galway

Unit 30 Mahon Point Shopping Centre, Co. Cork 29 Cruises Street, Co. Limerick WAREHOUSE Clery’s, Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1 Debenhams, 12 St Patrick’s St, Co. Cork

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GOHEALTH

Health

Naturally

with Jan De Vries

MENOPAUSE! NO SWEAT? �� but it need not be. One of the commonest symp��

IN THE

SUMMERTIME

Whan the weather is fine – you can make the mistake of getting burned! Here’s some seasonal tips to help you through the vacation period.

occurrence is an outward sign �� periods and increased sensitivity �� cause the entire body to become �� Some women choose to take an oestrogen sup�� severity as soon as that drug is discontinued. �� remedy. Note: there are no contraindications with Meno��

Available from Healthfoods Stores and selected Pharmacies nationwide. For your local stockist check out

www.wholefoods.ie

h... summer! The sun is shining, the birds are singing, and despite the occasional bouts of rain, we generally manage to get a few good weeks here in Ireland. But most of us still travel abroad at some stage to encounter to soak up the sun. As a result, summer is a time of both anticipation and dread – you might have warm weather, holidays and ice-cream to look forward to, but unfortunately with these come sunburn, insect bites, exposing your flesh in summer clothes and the many indignities of modern air travel. Luckily, a few simple strategies and choice products, between them can make all the difference to how well we fare. Long flights are dull and sitting in the same position for hours can result in stiff, tired aching legs. Don’t forget to get a little bit of exercise, even if it is only a few stretches and a walk around the plane. These can ensure that you don’t arrive at your destination with stiff, aching muscles. Another trick is Venagel (¤15.64). This is a cool and soothing gel, made from an extract of fresh Horse Chestnut. It helps tone the veins to improve the circulation in your legs, helping to relieve cramps. If you are worried about deep vein thrombosis on long-haul flights, it’s a must. Once you’ve arrived, you don’t want to spend your holiday confined to your hotel room. Vomiting. Tummy bugs and indigestion can be a problem for those travelling to far-flung destinations, particularly if you are not used to exotic or spicy foods. If you suffer from indigestion regularly, do some research on the local cuisine beforehand – that way you can avoid the foods most likely to upset your stomach. Another option is Molkosan Vitality (€17). This is a digestive tonic with antifungal and antibacterial properties that helps create the correct balance of intestinal flora in your body, protecting you from bugs and germs. For the best results, a course should be taken two to four weeks before you leave on holiday. Warm destinations are not just popular with people – insects love them too, particularly the biting kind. A repellent is a must. Neem Insect Repellent (€6.75) is a powerful natural insect repellent that masks the smell of your body so that biting insects stay away. Free from DEET and citronella, it’s safe to use on all the family. Apply every three hours and you should enjoy a summer free of mosquito and midge bites. Before heading off on holiday, many people – both men and women – try to drop a few pounds so they’ll look good

on the beach. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to look your best, but crash diets and starvation are unhealthy and counterproductive. If you really want to lose weight, the only way to do it is with exercise and a sensible eating plan. There is a reason why Weight Watchers is the one of the most popular weight loss programmes around the world – it works and you don’t have to starve yourself. The points system is a built-in failsafe – it allows you to plan ahead and have a social life and a few treats. A change of circumstances can have an effect on your weight, as Kian Brady discovered when he moved from Dublin back to his native Cavan. “I wasn’t working” he explains, “which meant I had loads of time to sit around and eat and soon the pounds piled on. One day, I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror, didn’t like what I saw and decided to join Weight Watchers.” Over 18 months, Kian lost an impressive two-and-a-half stone. “I already knew that if I ate less and moved more I would lose weight, but having the plan to follow meant I had good principles to follow as I lost weight,” he says. In the past, Kian had been a walker but, as the pounds piled on, that went by the board. “Getting back into the walking and swimming was a bit hard, but as the weight dropped, the motivation rose. Now I play badminton as well as walk and swim.” Weight Watchers offers classes around Ireland, including men-only ones. It is one of life’s ironies that the less exercise you do, the less energy you have to do it. Chia seeds are a great way to kickstart yourself into action. If they were good enough to keep Aztec warriors going during battles and hunting expeditions, they should work wonders on the treadmill! The Aztecs, Mayans and Native Americans used chia seeds as food, medicine, currency and as a tribute to their gods. Chia was known to promote endurance and is the highest known plant source of omega-3 fatty acids as well as an excellent source of fibre, protein and antioxidants. Chia has seen a renaissance in recent years due to research into this superfood. You can get whole and milled seeds from Chia Bia, an Irish-based company. The seeds are tiny and have a very subtle nutty taste. Add them to cereals, salads and stir-fries, or try one of Chia Bia’s organic nutrient bars and bread mixes. The full range is available in most good health shops and online at chiabia.com.

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H&H A4

GOHEALTH

R i c

T e

WOMEN’SHEALTH

It has been estimated that over 250,000 women across Ireland experience the menopause each year. Some lucky ladies barely notice any changes, but around two thirds do, with hot flushes and night sweats being the most common and troublesome physical symptoms. After the hormone replacement therapy scandal, it’s unsurprising that many women are not keen on treating what is a normal stage of life with drugs. The menopause is not a disease, after all. But having said that, hot flushes can interfere with day-to-day life, while sweats interrupt sleep, leaving you feeling cold, clammy and restless. A simple and effective way to help deal with these symptoms is with natural sage extract. Try Menoforce Sage tablets. These are made using the extract of fresh organic sage leaves and can be taken during the day or at night. Sage is a traditional remedy that has a long history of use and most women notice an improvement within the first couple of weeks.

T s r d

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PLASTICFANTASTIC If you needed a model to show Irish businesses how to thrive in difficult circumstances, Cosmedico Clinic would make an excellent case study. The Irish cosmetic surgery market was all but dominated by English companies up until 2006, when Cosmedico opened their first clinic in Co. Wicklow. Ailish Kelly and her partners decided the time was ripe to offer Irish patients something different to what was available. Cosmetic surgery is, after all, surgery, and with this comes the chance of exposure to infection in general hospitals. To reduce risk to patients, Cosmedico opened Ireland’s first purpose-built clinic dedicated to plastic surgery. Kelly passionately believed patients deserved a better level of care. To that end, Cosmedico can boast a panel of surgeons; 24/7/365 days a year aftercare; and most importantly, bespoke surgery – instead of being given ‘off-the-shelf’ options, each patient is treated as a unique individual with different needs. It’s a business model that has been working. Last year Cosmedico opened new consulting clinics in Galway and followed this year with Limerick and Kilkenny, Kerry, Belfast and London. For more information visit cosmedicoclinic.ie.

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T H a T w

H&H A4 Advert V2:Layout 1

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10:23

Page 1

N O W AVA ILAB LE IN IRE LA N D

Refreshing & versatile infusions expertly created for you Try these Heath & Heather infusions which combine a range of fruit & herbs together expertly, available from your local health store and now available in selected Dunnes stores. Peppermint

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Tip

Put two bags in a bowl of hot water, lean over the bowl and cover your head with a towel. Inhale the steam to help refresh sinuses.

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As an alternative, try using a cup of warm camomile as a final rinse traditionally applied to condition and highlight fair hair.

Make a pot of Red Berries infusion and allow to cool. Add to a jug along with an equal measure of sparkling water, crushed ice, lemon slices and fresh mint. Serve as a refreshing drink at any time of day.

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Lemon & Ginger Kick-start your taste buds with Heath & Heatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lemon & Ginger Infusion. A sweet, spicy and aromatic infusion which perfectly combines Lemon & Ginger to help support your wellbeing.

Tip The descriptions and tips above have been provided by a National Institute of Medical Herbalists Practitioner. The information is not intended to treat any medical problems and if you have any questions, please contact a qualified NIMH Practitioner. To find a registered NIMH Practitioner call +44(0) 1392 426 022 or visit their website www.nimh.org.uk.

Health GoR 1.2 4

Try adding a few bags to your bath to help soothe and relax your body after a hard day at work.

To contact Heath & Heather Customer Relations Team please call +44(0) 151 522 4100 Alternatively visit www.heathandheather.co.uk for more information

15/07/2011 18:19:05

GOHEALTH

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ADVERTORIAL

BEAT THE BLOAT

Free Yourself From Your Problem Food

ou may be familiar with the symptoms of Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS), bloating, loose bowels, constipation and / or stomach pains. IBS is now one of the most common problems of the digestive system and about one in six people have symptoms. Most people’s symptoms are so mild that they never see a doctor for treatment. However, some people have really troublesome symptoms, which seriously affect their quality of life. We talked to Becky, who was recently diagnosed with IBS and whose symptoms made her feel really miserable. Becky told us that “whenever I went out for a meal I dreaded it because I knew what would happen, I would get bloated and have severe discomfort and the symptoms were really offputting”. After having little help from her doctor, Becky decided to investigate her own health further, and a friend recommended that she try the YorkTest Food Intolerance Programme. Becky says “The results really rubber stamped what I already really knew, that some of the foods that I was eating were responsible for making me ill”. The programme helped Becky to pinpoint her exact problem foods and she was delighted with the results, she says “it was lovely to know the exact foods that were to blame for my IBS and having my health back is great”. Individuals with IBS need to feel actively

involved in their treatment; taking control and feeling empowered is really vital as IBS can seem like such an unpredictable condition. Some foods will nearly always cause symptoms while others don’t, and it can be incredibly frustrating trying to pin down what you can and can’t eat without suffering an attack. With chronic conditions such as IBS there really is growing evidence that what goes into the mouth produces a reaction in the body, and that food is a really important factor. FACTS - THE YORKTEST FOOD INTOLERANCE PROGRAMME • Home test kit – Laboratory analysed results • Finger prick blood test • 3 out of 4 people (75%) who take the test report getting better and 70% within 3 weeks • 98% reproducible • Clinical data to support the use of the YorkTest FoodScan Programme • Only food intolerance programme to be recommended by leading medical charity Allergy UK • The YorkTest Food Intolerance Programme is sold in Allergy Counts in the Charlemont Clinic and is also sold as an exclusive offer to VHI members. • The Programme will cost you €350 and if no positive reactions are found we will refund you €320!

Call now for a FREE consultation

01 20 22 701 or visit www.yorktest.ie

For further information or to order the programme please call 01 2022701 or www.yorktest.ie

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REVIEW A L B U M S .

M O V I E S .

B O O K S

S U B M A R I N E P80

GOLISTEN.

GOWATCH.

COLM O’HARE PICKS OUT THE NEW ALBUM RELEASES THAT WILL BE SOUNDTRACKING YOUR SUMMER, BEYONCÉ & IRISH HOTSHOT FIONN REGAN AMONG THEM.

WITH FEW MAJOR HOLLYWOOD RELEASES HITTING THE BIG SCREEN DURING THE SUMMER, IT’S TIME TO HEAD TO THE DVD STORE. ROE McDERMOTT TELLS YOU WHAT TO SEE – AND AVOID WITH A BARGEPOLE!

GOREAD. AS THE MAN BOOKER PRIZE GETS READY TO REVEAL ITS SHORTLIST, ANN SEXTON REVISTS SOME OF THE PAST WINNERS, AND ENJOYS CELEBRATED CHILDREN’S WRITER EOIN COLFER’S FIRST FORAY INTO ADULT FICTION.

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15/07/2011 17:18:02

GOLISTEN. MISS KNOWLES DELIVERS BIG TIME

Mouth-watering new albums from Paul Simon, Fionn Regan and Beyoncé lead the parade of this summer’s musical must-haves.

Beyonce

With living legends such as Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen and Paul McCartney showing little sign of retiring, it’s no surprise that the great Paul Simon is yet another music icon still coming up with the goods. So Beautiful Or So What (Decca) his first album in over five years and only his 12th studio album in a 40-year solo career, finds him returning to the more melodic, song-based style of his earlier work. Sonically, it’s a treat with the kind of effervescent ensemble playing that characterised his recent live shows in Dublin and Cork. This is undoubtedly down to the fact that he has retained the Afro-pop rhythms and world music textures that have formed the backdrop to most of his albums since Graceland. The title track – a typically syncopated shuffle, with stellar electric guitar work, recalls the driving rhythms of the Graceland standout, ‘The Boy In The Bubble’ while ‘Love And Hard Times’ boasts a melody that is not a million miles away from his mid-‘70s’ hit, ‘Still Crazy After All These

Depending on your point of view, Beyoncé Knowles’ singing style is either powerful and majestic or overblown and histrionic – either way she’s a force of nature both live and in the studio. She certainly doesn’t do subtle when it comes to vocal delivery, as her latest album 4 (Sony) demonstrates. The title was apparently inspired by the date of her birthday, her mother’s birthday and her marriage (to Jay-Z of course), the message here is monogamy and girl power! The strident up-tempo lead single, ‘Run The World (Girls)’ isn’t a million miles away from the kind of thing she was doing almost a decade ago with Destiny’s Child, while another definite highlight, ‘Party’ (featuring OutKast’s André 3000 on vocals) is almost on a par with her mega-hit ‘Crazy In Love’. Elsewhere, ‘Love On Top’ is a joyous, jubilant slice of soul that brings to mind the best of Motown, while even the ballads pack no little punch, the best of them being ‘Rather Die Young’, a Stevie Wonder-ish ballad with a gorgeously meandering melody. Truly a Diva among Divas!

Years.’ Lyrically, Simon who turns 70 this year is clearly contemplating his own mortality; ‘The Afterlife’ contains some hilarious ruminations on the paperwork involved in dying: “I thought it was odd, there was no sign of God… but you’ve got to fill out a form first”. Elsewhere, ‘Getting Ready For Christmas Day’, features snippets of a sermon from the Rev. JM Gates (apparently, a widely-recorded preacher in the early part of the 20th century) while a sample of the gospel harmonies of the Golden Gate Jubilee Quartet can be heard in ‘Love And Blessings’. Simon set the bar high very early on in his career and it’s a testament to his continuing greatness that he can produce an album so compelling. Fionn Regan, a young Irish troubadour in the tradition of Paul Simon, Neil Young and Bob Dylan, charmed many with his 2006 debut The End Of History. Quirky acoustic gems such as ‘Be Good Or Be Gone’ and ‘Put A Penny In The Slot’ became live favourites and radio staples,

while he scored a Mercury Prize nomination and won many high-profile fans including Ryan Tubridy. On the follow-up, The Shadow Of An Empire, he “went electric”, Dylan-style, losing some momentum along the way — but he is back to what he does best on his latest opus, 100 Acres Of Sycamore (Universal). The genesis of the album is a story in itself. On a trip to Majorca he befriended actress Anna Friel and was invited to stay in her home where he wrote most of the songs, which were recorded live in a barn directly onto good old-fashioned analogue tape using the same console The White Stripes used for Elephant. 100 Acres… is an organic, natural-sounding collection of dreamy, ethereal songs such as ‘The Horses Are Asleep’ and hauntingly beautiful ‘For A Nightingale’. His acoustic picking, with dramatic string and piano arrangements on the poignant ‘The Lake District’ is another highlight in what will undoubtedly be regarded as his best work to date.

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15/07/2011 17:18:04

GOWATCH. TAKING IT TO THE LIMIT ONE MORE TIME

It’s summer and therefore cinema’s silly season, and so you could find yourself at a loss for decent DVDs to watch. But fear not, Roe McDermott has the lowdown on what to rent - and what to avoid - in your video shop this summer, so your film selection will be good, even if the weather isn’t!

Limitless

n the fun thriller Limitless, failed writer Eddie (Bradley Cooper) is desperate for inspiration, and so knocks back a mysterious pill called NZT, instantly becoming an unstoppable genius. An early draft revolved around George Bush’s experiences with the drug, but his intelligence level remained unchanged. But it all comes at a price when Eddie attracts the attention of thugs, eager to cash in on the drug. Cooper is great in the lead role, transforming from undesirable scruff to arrogant, swaggering guru effortlessly. Side-effects of Limitless do include some predictable action sequences and a very specific form of amnesia that may cause you to forget the film within days. But as exciting highs and easy comedowns go, this fast-paced thriller proves an extremely fun little trip. If, however, you prefer your zany trips substance-free, submerge yourself in Richard Ayoade’s Submarine, the idiosyncratic, quirk-filled world of precocious teenager Oliver Tate that’s awash with memorable characters, constant laughs and not a little bit of whimsy. Intellectual but lonely, Oliver (Craig Roberts) is desperately seeking some connection and so strikes up a relationship with Jordana (Yasmine Paige), a brusque pyromaniac who stomps through the film in a red duffel coat like a rejected auditionee for Don’t Look Now. Though the two lead characters are filled with typical teenage self-absorption, Roberts and Paige’s brilliant performances and impeccable comic timing prove utterly charming. Brilliant performances from Sally Hawkins and a hilarious Paddy Considine round out the cast, and visually, Submarine is as beautifully eccentric as its characters, with Alex Turner’s soundtrack further serving to highlight the themes of love, loneliness and death. Ayoade’s direction shows not only admirable skill but obvious affection, which prevents Submarine’s innate indie-ness from ever entering the realm of smug self-

Your Highness

satisfaction. Instead, this hilarious, unique coming of age story already feels like a classic. But let’s face it, whimsical teenagers and indie soundtracks are all very well, but sometimes, on a beautiful summer’s day when the rest of the world is out frolicking in sun-soaked meadows, all you really want to watch is Jason Statham wielding a hurley. Smart, gritty and darkly funny, Blitz sees cinema’s go-to tough guy Statham playing Brant, a feared and revered punch-happy detective racing to catch the titular cop-killing serial murderer, with new poshboy sergeant Nash (Paddy Considine) by his side. Now while staying in watching crime thriller Blitz in August may seem vaguely inappropriate for the weather, in September comes a film that’s just inappropriate, full-stop. The rude, crude fantasy comedy Your Highness is the equivalent of a boys-only tree-house. It’s filled to the brim with rude humour. The result is undeniably stupid, but irresistibly funny. When the fiancée of the perfect Prince Fabious (James Franco) is kidnapped by an evil wizard, he drags his waster, weed-smoking brother Thadeous (Danny McBride) along for the quest of a lifetime – which Thadeous becomes much more enthusiastic about when Natalie Portman turns up as the ass-kicking warrior Isabel. McBride is perfect as the sulky, obscenity-spouting Thadeous, and though most of his punchlines consist solely of expletives, his delivery is so brilliantly deadpan that it remains hilarious ‘til the very end. The low-brow humour won’t be to everyone’s taste, and it’s more than a little indulgent, but as crude comedies go, get ready to laugh your ass off. Also keep an eye out for the sci-fi thriller Source Code starring the ever reliable (and ever beautiful) Jake Gyllenhaal, the gory but thrilling historical siege film Ironclad and the fantastic Australian crime drama Animal Kingdom.

B E S T // W O R S T BRICKBATS TO: Big Mommas: Like Father, Like Son (unfunny comedy); Country Strong (comainducing melodrama) and The Roommate (the only scary thing is the lack of talent)

AND BOUQUETS: Ironclad (gory but thrilling); Animal Kingdom (fantastic crime drama) and Blitz (pacy and exciting)

Ironclad

80 Pop Culture GoR 1-2 3

18/07/2011 12:49:38

GOREAD. G R E AT I R I S H R E A DS

The shortlist for one of the most prestigious prizes in literature, the Man Booker, is due to be announced at the end of July. In this issue we scrutinise two novels from former winners that may just make the 2011 long-list, plus a look at an Irish children’s writer’s first foray into adult fiction.

Eoin Colfer

PLUGGED Eoin Colfer’s Artemis Fowl series has won him fans young and old around the world. His newest book, Plugged, his first for adult readers, is a somewhat different affair – a comic crime caper set in New Jersey. Dan McEvoy has left Ireland for the US looking for a new start. After serving as a peacekeeper in the Lebanon he wants a quiet life and a set of hair plugs, but things don’t work out quite as planned. Dan works as a bouncer at Slotz, a dive casino in the small town of Cloisters. After a hard night dealing with drunks, Dan heads into town to find his illegal plastic surgeon Zeb is missing, his offices ransacked. Things get worse when Connie, a cocktail waitress and Dan’s parttime girl, is found dead in the Slotz parking lot. As the bodies pile up Dan gets drawn into a web of rogue cops, maniacal lawyers and vicious small town gangsters. Plugged is a fantastic – in both senses of the word – and wickedly funny noir tale that is sure to garner Colfer a whole new set of fans.

THE STRANGER’S CHILD Alan Hollinghurst returns with a new novel, The Stranger’s Child, his first since winning the Man Booker in 2004 with The Line Of Beauty. The Stranger’s Child opens in 1913. Cecil Valance, poet and heir to a duchy, visits his Cambridge friend George Sawle and his family at their home Two Acres. The Sawles are fascinated by Cecil’s charm, aristocratic background and literary reputation. Unbeknownst to the family, Cecil is George’s lover, and during his visit, he makes a play for George’s younger sister Daphne too. Most importantly, before he leaves he writes the first draft of a poem, an ode to Two Acres and to his beloved. When he is killed during

World War I, this poem becomes the voice of an England forever changed, segmenting Cecil’s reputation as a poet. Cecil may die young but his shadow looms large over the generations that follow. Who Cecil is, what the poem means and who it was written for become questions that follow Daphne, her children and Valance’s biographers into the present day. The Stranger’s Child opens as a country house novel and then moves episodically from 1913 to 2008, tracing the vagaries of literary reputation and changes to British society, particularly the legal position of homosexuality.

THE FORGOTTEN WALTZ Winning the 2007 Man Booker winner introduced Anne Enright to a larger audience and her latest offering The Forgotten Waltz is sure to cement her reputation as one of Ireland’s most compelling writers. As the title suggests, The Forgotten Waltz is a story of two lovers. During the final years of the Celtic Tiger, Gina meets a man at her sister’s house and her attraction to him sets in motion a series of events that will forever change the lives of two families. Gina is married, as is Séan, and after a drunken one-night stand at a work conference, the two embark on an affair. From this everyday tale of infidelity and betrayal, Enright weaves a story of regret, guilt and passion. The Forgotten Waltz is in parts a cautionary tale – the chapters, each named after famous love songs, juxtapose idealised versions of love with the grim reality of the affair and its emotional and financial consequences. However, Enright does not make it easy for us to stand in judgement. Her great talent is to create flawed, credible characters, whose motives, both selfish and romantic, make them all too human.

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18/07/2011 12:50:04

G O F I G U R E

GO RAILS BRAIN TEASERS

QUIZ (A) These are the five largest countries in the world, by area: 1. Russia (17.10 square km) 2. Canada (9.98) 3. China (9.57) 4. USA (9.52) 5. Brazil (8.51)

(B) These are the five largest cities in the world (suburban areas included): 1. Tokyo (32.45 million people) 2. Seoul (20.55 m) 3. Mexico City (20.45) 4. New York (19.75) 5. Mumbai (19.2)

Can you name the sixth largest? Is it Kazakhstan, Argentina, India, Australia, Liechtenstein or the Congo?

Can you name the sixth largest? Is it Sao Paulo, Jakarta, Moneygall, Osaka, Shanghai or Scunthorpe?

CROSSWORD ACROSS

1 5 9 10 11 12 14 18 22 23 24 25 26 27

DOWN

1 2 3 4 6 7 8 13 15 16 17 19 20 21

Listeners (8) Epic or impressive (6) John & Yoko’s period in New York City (4,4) Fire breathing creature (6) Not animals or vegetables (8) Silent communication (6) Mixed seed mishap is stressed (10) Perpetually sung by Cliff Richard (10) Strange fruit? (6) Likely cost (8) Language (6) Above ground floor (8) More profound (6) Top of the Atomic Pops (8)

Take on a title or office (6) Confuse damned request (6) Dining place (6) Add to make whole or perfect (10) First memory (8) Musician who plays with hands and feet (8) Decide to bring to a close (8) Love of wisdom (10) Received, like an apology (8) Declare no nuance in disarray (8) Meat Loaf’s was Bad (8) Mess of multiple offspring? (6) Decreasing moon (6) Horatio or Muntz (6)

CROSSWORD SOLUTION

QUIZ ANSWERS

DOWN: 1 ASSUME, 2 DEMAND, 3 EATERY, 4 COMPLEMENT, 6 EARLIEST, 7 ORGANIST, 8 CONCLUDE, 13 PHILOSOPHY, 15 ACCEPTED, 16 ANNOUNCE, 17 ATTITUDE, 19 LITTER, 20 WANING, 21 NELSON.

A) AUSTRALIA B) JAKARTA

ACROSS: 1 AUDIENCE, 5 HEROIC, 9 SOME TIME, 10 DRAGON, 11 MINERALS, 12 SIGNAL, 14 EMPHASISED, 18 CONSTANTLY, 22 EXOTIC, 23 ESTIMATE, 24 TONGUE, 25 UPSTAIRS, 26 DEEPER, 27 HYDROGEN.

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GO RAIL A4:Layout 1

11/04/2011

09:40

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Winner of Best Tourism Website & Best Website at the 2010 Eircom Spider Awards. Also awarded Best Family Day out by Primary Times Reader Awards

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20.08.2011 – 28.08.2011

Over 1500 Events Nationwide! Check out www.heritageweek.ie to find out what’s on near you. There’s lots of free family friendly events taking place with something for all ages and interests in every county of Ireland. • • • • • • •

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• • • • • •

Seminars and lectures Traditional music & dance sessions Photography and art exhibitions Tours of historical buildings Archaeological digs Historical re-enactments

EVENTS ARE DIVERSE, CREATIVE, ENTERTAINING, EDUCATIONAL & FUN To find out more about National Heritage Week and for details about our National Photography and Storytelling Competitions see: Visit www.heritageweek.ie Callsave 1850

200 878 Email heritageweek@heritagecouncil.ie National Heritage Week is co-ordinated by the Heritage Council with support from Fáilte Ireland and is part of European Heritage Days, which is celebrated in over 40 countries across Europe.