GoRail Vol.06 Issue 02 Summer 2016 by Hot Press Publishing

SUMMER 2016 • VOL:06 ISSUE:02

MICHAEL

CONLAN G O E S

F O R

OLYMPIC GOLD

SIMONE ROCHA

GABRIEL BYRNE

IAN DEMPSEY

How she conquered the fashion world

The Hollywood star comes out fighting

The broadcaster on his Limerick love affair

+ I R ELA N D’ S DISA PPEA R I NG S H OPF RON T S , H E R I TAGE TOW NS & U2 ON F I L M

CONTENTS

S U M M E R 2 01 6

Volume 06 // Issue 02

Michael Conlan I N T E R V I E W O N PAG E

06/ Go For It

28/ Simone Rocha

40/ Go Eat

From the National Ploughing Championships to the Kilkenny Arts Festival, we give you the lowdown on what there is to see and do across the country for the rest of the summer.

Simone Rocha, a fashion designer with the world at her feet, tells us why there's no place like home.

We sit down for a slice of pizza at The Old Music Shop with the singer/songwriter Róisín 0, as she works on her second album.

30/ Ian Dempsey

44/ Sri Lanka

The iconic broadcaster reveals his favourite train journey and reveals all about his 'bromance' with Mario Rosenstock.

The jewel of the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is an island with lots of charm – and some spectacular train journeys.

32/ U2 on Film

47/ Heritage Week

From boxers to gymnasts, we meet some of Ireland's Olympic hopefuls who are going for gold in Rio.

U2's documentary maker Hamish Hamilton, recalls the band's historic Paris shows, which, coming after the Bataclan attacks, are some of the most emotional they have ever done.

We preview all there is to see and do during this year's Heritage Week, when Ireland's history and culture is celebrated with events across the country.

26/ Type A

35/ Gabriel Byrne

55/ Reviews

We meet a graphic designer from Offaly who is documenting Ireland's rural shopfronts, one sign at a time.

The outspoken actor on feminism, the global economic collapse, and why Irish political parties are all the same.

All you need to know about the latest book, DVD and music reviews, from the Red Hot Chili Peppers to Disney's Zootropolis.

16/ Train News The latest news and views from around the Irish Rail network, from Cabra to Claremorris and everywhere in between.

20/ Olympics

Credits SUMMER 2016

Volume 06 // Issue 02

MANAGING EDITOR

Máirin Sheehy

COMMISSIONING EDITOR

Roisin Dwyer

CONTRIBUTORS

Stuart Clark Conor Purcell Peter McNally Anne Sexton Roe McDermott Colm O'Regan Ed Murphy Hannah O'Brien Kyle Mulholland Olaf Tyaransen

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hot Press 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

DESIGN

Eimear O'Connor Rory Geraghty

ADVERTISING

Stephen O'Connor

GROUP AD MANAGER

Trish Murphy

CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER

Kathrin Baumbach

PUBLISHER

Niall Stokes

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Boylan’s Prin

GO RAIL IS PUBLISHED FOR IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY:

Osnovina Ltd 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

Contact TELEPHONE FAX EMAIL

(01) 2411 500 (01) 2411 538 gorail@hotpress.ie

LETTERS

The Editor, Go Rail Magazine, 13 Trinity St Dublin 2

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Iarnród Éireann. All material © Osnovina 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

Editor's Message Olympic Games 2016

Ireland Could Win More Medals Than Ever

he Olympic Games comes around only once every four years. Even if you are not particularly interested in sport, there is no mistaking the fact that it is an event that is likely to be enveloped in high drama.

Even in advance of the Games themselves, which take place in Rio this year, the Olympics has commanded prime slots in the evening news. The issue of drugs in sport is an ongoing soap opera, but on this occasion it is even more serious than usual. Improved techniques for detecting doping have allowed re-analysis of samples kept from the past two Olympic Games – and dozens of new positive tests have been identified. The World Anti Doping Agency (WADA) has specifically accused Russia of “sabotaging the London 2012 Olympics.” This has resulted in the exclusion of Russia, as a nation, from the 2016 games. A systematic programme of ‘Statesponsored doping’ has been in operation there, with many Russian athletes who won medals in London in 2012 and in Beijing in 2008 now looking certain to be stripped of them. Many people involved in sport wanted to see Russian competitors banned completely from participation in Rio. The International Olympic Committee, however, has decided differently. Rather than representing their country, they will allow Russian competitors to enter as individuals. There is some logic to their position: why should clean Russian athletes be punished for the crimes of their compatriots? In Rio, we are promised that Russian competitors will be subject to a particularly tough testing regime. But of course this should not be at the expense of ensuring that other nations are as rigorously tested. Turkey has a shocking record of offences. France and India also rank

high among the countries where positive doping tests have been recorded. Top athletic nations like Kenya and Jamaica are also among those suspected of irregularities. Against that backdrop, it would be wrong if the focus on Russia were to give these countries, or others, an unwarranted pass by default. Meanwhile Ireland – which has so far proven to be relatively drug-free – is sending a team to the Games that has the potential to produce our highest ever medal tally. Track and field is the most glamorous of Olympic sports, and we have only one clear-cut medal prospect there, in the shape of 50km walker, Rob Heffernan. Ciara Mageean, who took bronze in the recent European Championships, has an outside chance in the Women’s 1,500 metres, depending on how the race is run. But between our boxers – who might bring back a real collection – our pentathletes, our rowers, our golfers (Stephanie Meadow is in with a chance) and our show jumpers, there’s a plethora of competitors, who are more than capable of getting into the mix at least. Our cover star, boxer Michael Conlan, exudes confidence – and all the experts say that he is, indeed, among the hottest favourites to win a gold medal. Katie Taylor should be there or thereabouts too. But they are just two of our most realistic contenders, in what is a very strong Irish squad. Let’s hope Michael and Katie do bring home gold – and that they are not alone. Indeed a haul of ten medals isn’t outside the bounds of possibility. Roll on Rio. And let’s hope that doping doesn’t become the big story of the games. Sadly, it might just turn out that way.

Máirin Sheehy, Editor

GO FOR IT A R U N D O W N O F W H AT ’ S H O T & H A P P E N I N G

by Kyle Mulholland and Hannah O'Brien

Her Amy is True Amy Schumer is a phenomenon. At last autumn’s Emmy Awards, they invented a new category for Sketch Variety just so that her genius Inside Amy Schumer wouldn’t sweep the boards. Not content with dominating the small screen, Schumer also wrote

and starred in the blockbuster Trainwreck which, with a little help from Judd Apatow, became one of the biggest comedy films of recent years. The good news is that Schumer is back to her first love, stand-up comedy: this summer’s date at 3Arena on August

26 will be her first major headline show on Irish shores. Her last visit included a stop at Grogan’s where she, Apatow and Glen Hansard serenaded some newlyweds with a rendition of ‘The Auld Triangle’ – so keep an eye out at some city centre hostelries just in case.

For best value fares on all intercity services check out irishrail.ie

Need To Know... WHERE: 3Arena WHEN: August 26 NEAREST STATION: Connolly Station

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Mint Condition In March of this year, the Central Bank of Ireland issued a series of silver and gold proof coins to commemorate the centenary of the 1916 Easter Rising and the Proclamation of the Irish Republic. These coins feature an artistic representation of the statue of Hibernia – the historic personification of Ireland which sits atop the GPO – against a background containing key words and phrases from the Proclamation. Hibernia bore witness to the events of 1916 and for one hundred years since has watched the nation blossom before her. She is a symbol of the past, present and future of this country. There are a limited number of silver and gold coins still available to purchase directly from the Central Bank. Further information can be found at centralbank.ie/coinsets or by calling 1890 307 607.

On your Bike September 11 will see up to 5,000 people generating some pedal power to take part in the Great Dublin Bike Ride. Offering a 60km route for those interested in a less strenuous day in the saddle, along with a 100km option for the aspiring Stephen Roches amongst us, the event – organised by Sport Ireland, in conjunction with Cycling Ireland – is expected to see more than 6,000 cyclists getting out and doing their thing around the city. Setting out from Smithfield, the event is open to anyone above the age of 16; visit greatdublinbikeride.ie for more details.

Capital Comedy Ireland’s fastest growing comedy gala turns 10 this year, and it will bring some of the world’s finest talents to Dublin’s Iveagh Gardens when it returns on July 28–31. Star attractions this summer include top US comedian and Breaking Bad actor, Bill Burr, headlining two shows in one day, the second of which will see him supported by the hilarious Rory Scovel. With multiple sets a feature, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to catch Stewart Francis, Des Bishop, Aisling Bea, David O’Doherty, Al Porter, Milton Jones, Maeve Higgins, Jason Byrne – and lots more, including a David Bowie Special of Adam Buxton’s Bug. Apres Match will be headlining the Comedy Hub Stage.

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Need To Know... WHERE: Stradbally, Co. Laois WHEN: September 2 - 4 NEAREST STATION: Portlaoise

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Our Friends Electric The flagship event of the Irish festival calendar, Electric Picnic returns this year with a line-up packed with fan favourites. Tickets for the September 2–4 spectacular were sold out almost immediately after the lineup was revealed, with the likes of LCD Soundsystem, Lana Del Ray, New Order, the Chemical Brothers, and Noel Gallagher taking their place at the top of the bill. No matter how stellar the musical offering, a big draw of the Picnic has always been the more eccentric experiences found off the beaten track, with the atmospheric Body & Soul Arena, the Salty Dog Stage, Trenchtown, the Mindfield and the Rave in the Woods all ready to be explored at one of the summer’s biggest events.

CAN YOU DIG IT?

All singing All dancing The multi–Tony Award winning Billy Elliot The Musical will make its Irish debut this summer after more than a decade of success on the West End. Running from July 26 – September 3, the musical is an adaptation of the Bafta winning film of the same name, and tells the

story of a young boy’s struggle against the odds – and small–town prejudices – to make his dream come true as a ballet dancer. This spectacular theatre experience features a timeless score by Elton John, and thrillingly inventive choreography.

Europe’s largest outdoor event returns to Offaly from September 20–22 and, even in its 85th year, the National Ploughing Championships shows no signs of slowing. Last year saw more than 280,000 people in attendance, and this year promises all the traditional attractions once again: sheep shearing, hunt chase, pony games, live music, sheep dog trials and threshing among them. There’s also the quest to find Ireland’s Best Brown Bread Baker, a bumper ¤65,000 prize fund for budding entrepreneurs at the Innovation Arena, and lots more besides, from motor displays and artisan food stalls to shopping arcades and cookery demonstrations. Tickets are available to purchase online from August, with day tickets for adults at ¤20 and children under 12 going free – visit npa.ie for all the need-to-knows.

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DUBLIN IS FULL OF BRILLIANT THINGS TO DO!

Whiskey In The Jar If you’re looking to learn about the history of Ireland’s favourite tipple, then look no further than the Irish Whiskey Museum. Nestled in the heart of the fair city, a stone’s throw away from Trinity College Dublin, the recently opened facility is quickly becoming one of Dublin’s most popular attractions. Your journey through time will be in the company of energetic and passionate guides, as they share a wealth of whiskey knowledge and anecdotes stretching back to the 1800s. By the end of the tour you’ll be a whiskey tasting expert – and if you fancy expanding your expertise even further, upgrading to a VIP ticket lets you sample matured aged whiskey and bring home a unique souvenir. With a store packed with keepsakes and a bar offering a massive array of exotic whiskey based cocktails, there’s something to please everyone from the newcomer to the most discerning aficionado.

AER LINGUS COLLEGE FOOTBALL CLASSIC Boston College Eagles V Georgia Tech Yellow Jackets SEPTEMBER 3 • AVIVA STADIUM For the third time in five years, American football is back in the capital. The game might be the main event, but with everything from rallies, and tailgates to business meetings and academic forums, football fever will take hold all week long! www.collegefootballireland.com

THE GREAT DUBLIN BIKE RIDE SEPTEMBER 11 Run in conjunction with the Irish Sports Council and the Greater Dublin Authorities, the event will see up to 5,000 riders set out from Smithfield to tour the city. Two different routes mean that novice and expert alike can join in the fun. www.dublincity.ie

CULTURE NIGHT SEPTEMBER 16 Celebrating every field of the arts imaginable, the doors of galleries, venues, cultural landmarks and national institutions will be open to all and sundry. Hundreds of events take place between 5pm and 9pm – and best of all, they’re free of charge. www.culturenight.ie

BRAM STOKER FESTIVAL OCTOBER 28-31 An initiative of Dublin City Council and Fáilte Ireland, the festival sees family fun, adventurous arts, literature and drama come together in thrillingly chilling weekend! www.bramstokerfestival.com

NEW YEAR’S EVE FESTIVAL DECEMBER 30 - JANUARY 1 Beginning with the family friendly People’s Procession of Light, three days of fun and celebration see 2016 out in style. Don’t miss the city’s famous Countdown Concert and fireworks spectacular. www.nyfdublin.com

VISIT DUBLIN #LOVEDUBLIN For a full list of events and further details, go to dublincity.ie/events or mail events@dublincity.ie

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LEE WILL ROCK YOU

P L A N E T Need To Know... WHERE: The National Convention Centre WHEN: August 6 - 7 NEAREST STATION: Connolly

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The National Convention Centre in Dublin is ground zero as Dublin Comic Con 2016 swoops into town on August 6 and 7. With special appearances from stars of Game of Thrones, The Walking Dead, Scrubs, and much more, the 100% Irish comic festival is a must for aficionados of graphic novels, games, and everything in between. A jam-packed schedule of panels, signings, and exhibitions of props from blockbuster movies means there’s something for every superman, and a special concert of tunes from video games headed by The Triforce Quartet means even music fans will be well catered for! A plethora of loot will be available across the many stalls for anyone in the shopping mood – and if you’ve already got your kit then pop along in your finest superhero outfit to take part in the costume contest, and see if you can be crowned spandex sartorialist supreme!

Since 1979, the greatest talents in folk music have headed Leeside for the annual spectacular of the Cork Folk Festival, and this year’s renewal promises to be another banner year. Taking place in the Rebel City from September 29 – October 2, 14 atmospheric venues will welcome the likes of female folk duo The Unthanks, and self-professed ‘Dublin folk miscreants’ Lynched, along with the softly-spoken hometown hero Mick Flannery. Drawing on the vibrant atmosphere of city – and its unparalleled musical heritage – acts from both home and abroad celebrate the wonders of folk with plenty of vim and even more vigour, with both purist and casual observer alike sure to be entranced.

CEOL AGUS CRAIC

Fringe Benefits Due to be held in Ennis for the first time since 1977, Ireland’s biggest annual celebration of traditional music returns for its 65th outing from August 14–22. For one week, the very best of traditional music talent from all over the world will head out west to meet, compete and participate in more than 400 events in honour of Ireland’s rich musical and cultural heritage. To mark the centenary of the 1916 Rising, this year’s Fleadh will hold several commemorative events looking back to the music popular at the time of the ‘Great Rebellion’. Highlights include Ray Conway’s 1916 – A Terrible Beauty, telling the story of the Rising through music, song and words, and featuring renowned traditional singer Sean Ó Sé and broadcasters Ciana Campbell and Pat Costello.

Now in it 22nd year, the Dublin Fringe Festival is a stunning multi-disciplinary event running across the capital. For two glorious weeks, September 10–25, every nook and cranny in the city will host comedy, theatre, street performance and live music. Designed to support the development and presentation of innovative new work by artists both Irish and international, the Fringe always delivers a daring – and highly entertaining – programme, and this year is no different. The Spiegeltent this time around will be in Merrion Square, a perfect location for what is an unfailingly brilliant venue. Full details of what to expect are available at fringefest.com.

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A Piece Of History

Touchdown In Dublin There’s been a steady increase in the amount of gridiron fans in Ireland, and an all-too-rare opportunity to experience the game up close and personal arrives in the shape of the Boston College Eagles and the Georgia Tech Yellow Jackets doing battle in the Aviva Stadium on September 3. Given the strength of the Irish connection in Boston, this will seem like a home game for the boys from Beantown, but the men from the south will be out to spoil their party. Not that it really could be spoiled; with all the glitz and glamour that comes as part of the experience, the city is likely to be abuzz for days before the game – and even those who can’t tell a quarterback from a cornerback will be swept up in the excitement.

Out West Lisdoonvarna is a renowned haven for those looking for love, with its famous matchmaking festival drawing crowds from all over. But it now has another claim to fame – The Outing Festival, the LGBT equivalent of the matchmaking spectacular. Celebrating its fourth year from October 7-9, the gathering is not just about finding love; it’s jam-packed with a vast array of entertaining activities from feature films and music to arts and more. The increasingly popular festival is gaining a reputation, with critics calling it one of the top indie festivals in Europe. Reprising her role as host, the High Queen of Drag in Ireland Panti Bliss will reign over festivities, which will include non-stop entertainment from the likes of B*Witched, Jonny Woo, Eden and the outrageous Le Gateau Chocolat.

In commemoration of the centenary of the Easter Rising, a series of special medallions have been unveiled to help collectors celebrate the landmark in style. Commissioned by 1916uprising.ie, the minting will see less than 1,000 box sets of limited edition items made available. Displayed on one side are the seven signatories of the Proclamation, while the other side holds an engraving of the first few words of that seminal document. Each set includes 3 copper-cast medallions, plated in 24 carat gold plated, silver and bronze; the perfect gift for the history buff in your life.

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Once again unto the Breach Need To Know... WHERE: Olympia Theatre WHEN: July 2 - August 27 NEAREST STATIONS: Heuston/Connolly

Based on John Carney’s little-movie-that-could – you know, the one that delivered an Academy Award for Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová’s wonderful ‘Falling Slowly’ – Once: The Musical is back at Dublin’s Olympia Theatre for another blockbusting run. The award-winning production will run from July 2 to August 27. Having enjoyed a successful three years on Broadway and two in the West End – grabbing eight Tonys in the process – the show set in Dublin can reasonably be described as an international phenomenon. Once has been adapted for the stage by Irish playwright of the moment, Enda Walsh, and this is one not to be missed.

GAME OF THROW-INS

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER A national event that celebrates culture, creativity and the arts; Friday, September 16 will see another edition of Culture Night swing into action at locations all across the country. From galleries to observatories and gig venues to national institutions, doors will be flung open to welcome all the family to sample a taste of what the nation has to offer. With tours, musical performances, workshops, talks, debates, and exhibitions, there is a huge amount to do, so make sure to visit culturenight.ie to find out what’s going on near you. Best of all, the various offerings are completely free of charge – so there’s no reason not to get involved.

All roads lead to Croke Park this September for the climax of another thrilling summer of hurling and football. Will Kilkenny’s hurlers be there to make it 3 in a row? Will last year’s football champs Dublin continue their imperious streak? The race for the Sam Maguire and Liam McCarthy cups began in earnest in late June with the knockout rounds, but it’s the deciders that rightly hold pride of place in the Irish sporting year. The Senior Finals are widely regarded as among the most exciting sporting events in the world, with crowds of up to 81,000 packing the GAA HQ in Dublin; indeed, in 2012 CNN listed the hurling final as No. 2 in their countdown of Ten Sporting Events You Have To See Live.

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MIZEN HEAD SIGNAL STATION Ireland’s Most Southwesterly Point info@mizenhead.ie www.mizenhead.ie 028 35000/35115/35225

Signature Discovery Point on the Wild Atlantic Way!

DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY!

OPEN DAILY FROM MARCH –OCTOBER WEEKENDS ONLY (NOVEMBER –MID MARCH) Mizen Information and e–Centre, Goleen Also… Gift Shop, Coffee Shop, Public Washrooms, Hot Desks, Business Service & WiFi. Contact: 028–35000 info@mizenhead.ie www.emizen.ie

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(OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)

DESTINATION

Country File

Hannah O’Brien picks five of the best attractions from around the country

5 1. Clare: Cliffs of Moher Opening Hours: 9am-9pm cliffsofmoher.ie At more than 320 million years old and 702 feet high, and with panoramas spanning eight miles, the cliffs are not the highest in Ireland, but they are the steepest, and probably the most spectacular. Films such as Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince, Ryan’s Daughter and The Princess Bride have all been shot here, and on clear days visitors can see the Aran Islands, Galway Bay, Connemara, Loop Head, the Dingle Peninsula and the Blasket Islands. With surf-central Lahinch and music-rich Doolin just around the corner, you are guaranteed to enjoy your jaunt along the coast.

3 4 2 2. Dublin: Guinness Storehouse Opening hours: 9.30am to 8pm during August guinness-storehouse.com Leased to Arthur Guinness in 1759 for 9,000 years, this brewery has been the home of Guinness for more than two centuries. The seven-storey Storehouse was formerly a fermentation plant and now offers daily tours as well as the Taste Experience where you can learn about the four ingredients that go into the black stuff. Visitors are also taken through the all important pouring process, and after all that hard work, you can relax with a pint and some spectacular views of the city.

3. Cork: Mizen Head Opening Hours: 10.30am-5pm emizen.ie Few sights in Ireland captivate the senses quite like Mizen Head. Located above the Atlantic Ocean and surrounded by sloping cliffs and crashing waves, there are breathtaking views across the Atlantic. The Mizen Head signal has stood guard over the cliffs for over 100 years, navigating sailors safely past the treacherous rocky seashore. The signal station gives you the opportunity to immerse yourself in the solitude of the keeper’s lives, discovering the station keeper’s quarters, the Mizen map collection, the engine room and an underwater wildlife exhibition. For the more adventurous, there’s also a thrilling high-arched bridge connecting the station to the mainland: look down and try to spot seals and dolphins. After all the exhilaration, head back to the centre to grab a well-earned bite at the Mizen café.

4. Galway: Galway City Museum Opening Hours: 10am-5pm galwaycitymuseum.ie Neatly tucked behind the iconic Spanish Arch, the museum is home to a delightful collection of exhibitions covering the heritage and history of Galway City. Popular exhibitions include: Routes to the Past (Prehistoric Galway), Galway Within the Walls (Medieval Galway) and Galway and the Wars of Empire. The most recent addition – in honour of the centenary – is Revolution in Galway, 19131923, which looks at the involvement of Galwegians in the Rising. To tell their story, the museum has accumulated a large collection of everyday objects and mementos from family members and national institutions. There is also some short silent footage from the period to enjoy, focusing on the role the city’s residents played in the events.

5. Dublin: Glasnevin Cemetery Opening Hours: 9am-6pm glasnevincemetry.ie Located 2.5km north of O’Connell St, Glasnevin Cemetry covers 124 acres of lush parkland and is home to more than 1.5m burial sites dating as far back as 1832. Described as a ‘Who’s Who’ of key historical Irish figures, the cemetery boasts Charles Stewart Parnell, Eamon De Valera, Michael Collins, Maud Gonne and Luke Kelly as some of its illustrious alumni. It is not just the famous who are buried here, with more than 800,000 having been buried here in mass graves following the staggering death toll from the Great Famine and by later cholera epidemics. Daily guided tours and re-enactments help resurrect the often tragic but beautiful history of Ireland. From Fenians to grave diggers and two world wars – no aspect of Irish history is left unexplored here.

T R A I N news

Take a Trip to Remember This Summer Planning a family trip this Summer? Make it one to remember with Iarnród Éireann’s special family fares. There’s something about summer that makes memories of it sharper and more vivid than those of any other time of year. We remember the good weather more, the sun streaming in the train window, the barbecues that take place at the smallest sign of sunshine. And nothing represents summer better than that feeling of sun on your face, ice cream in hand, and a refreshing dip in the sea. Food tastes better, the air smells sweeter, and time with family and friends is happier. To celebrate and help you make the most of summer, Iarnród Éireann are offering trips to remember this summer, with discount family fares for one or adults and up to four children (aged 5 to 15 – remember, under 5s travel free on Intercity). Check out these great fares, available from any Iarnród Éireann station.

FAMILY FARES TO/ FROM DUBLIN

DAY RETURN

Cobh Cork Galway Kerry (Tralee/ Killarney) Kilkenny Ennis/Limerick Wexford/ Rosslare Sligo Waterford Westport Belfast

€99 €99 €73.50 €99 €49 €95.50/€75.50 €64/€67 €74 €69.50 €79 €89

OPEN RETURN €99 €99 €79 €99 €49 €99/€79 €79 €79 €79 €99 €89

And if you’re staying living or holidaying in the Dublin area, a full day’s unlimited travel for 1 or 2 adults and up to 4 children in the DART/ Commuter Short Hop Zone is just Ð20. Grab your bucket and spade (and maybe an umbrella too!) and enjoy the summer!

TRAINSPOTTING

INTERRAIL

The Freedom of Europe

Summer Events Guide So now that you know the fares, what are you going to do? Check out our summer events guide for a range of activities around the country:

July 9th - 24th Galway Fringe Festival, Galway 11th - 24th Galway International Arts Festival 13th - 17th Ballina Salmon Festival, Ballina, Co. Mayo 15th - 17th Longitude, Rathfarnham, Co. Dublin 16th - 17th Laya City Spectacular, Cork 20th - 24th Dublin Horse Show, RDS, Dublin

Benefits Co. Mayo

12th - 14th Blues, Roots & Brass Festival, Dublin

29th - 31st Waterford Spraoi International Street Arts Festival, Co. Waterford

13th - 14th A Festival of Entertainment at Wells House, Gorey, Co. Wexford

29th - 31st Independience Music & Arts Festival, Mitchelstown, Co. Cork

14th - 21st Tullamore Livestock Show, Tullamore, Co. Offaly

30th - 31st Enniscorthy Rockin’ Food Festival, Enniscorthy, Co. Wexford

14th - 22nd Fleadh Cheoil, Ennis, Co. Claire

30th - 1st Gorey Market House Festival, Gorey, Co. Wexford

17th - 21st Terryglass Arts Festival, Co. Tipperary

August

17th - 21st The Hollywood Fair, Co. Wicklow

21st - 30th Boyle Arts Festival, Co. Roscommon

4th - 10th Clonmel Junction Festival, Co. Tipperary

17th - 23rd Rose of Tralee, Co. Kerry

23rd Punchestown Music Festival, Naas, Co. Kildare

5th - 7th Boyne Music Festival, Drogheda, Co. Louth

18th and 20th Cricket - Ireland Vs Pakistan, Malahide, Co. Dublin

23rd - 24th Bray Air Spectacular, Bray, Co. Wicklow

5th - 7th Duncannon Sand Sculpting Festival / Children’s Festivals, Co. Wexford

25th - 26th Tennants Vital Music Festival, Belfast

21st - 24th Festival of Curiosity, Dublin

24th - 7th Yeats Arts Festival, Co. Sligo 25th - 31st The Galway Races 25th - 1st Art in the Open, Co. Wexford 29th - 31st Féile Fáilteach Chill Chomáin/Kilcommon Welcoming Festival Village Festivals and Fetes,

If you’re travelling in Europe this summer, you can still take the train as part of your trip! Whenever and wherever you want to go, there’s a range of InterRail passes to choose from that offer complete flexibility. What’s InterRail all about? The InterRail pass – whether it’s a one country pass or a global pass valid in 30 participating countries – offers great value for money when travelling around Europe.

5th - 14th Kilkenny Arts Festival, Kilkenny

25th - 28th Guinness Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival 2016, Dunmore East, Co. Waterford

10th - 12th Puck Fair, Killorglin, Co. Kerry

26th - 28th Doolin Beer & Roots Festival, Co. Clare

11th - 14th The Big Grill Festival, Ballsbridge, Co. Dublin

27th Killarney Cycle Festival, Co. Kerry

You choose your itinerary - Explore a single country with a one country pass, travel around several countries with a global pass. You decide when you want to travel – Flexi options give you travel for a certain number of days in a month, or continuous options allow travel on every day of their duration. You decide how you want to travel – First class passes are now available, as well as Standard class passes. For advice from other InterRailers, we would recommend that you check out the official InterRail website at www.interrail.eu Contact us for more information. Alternatively, call into one of the following stations: Cork, Galway, Limerick, Waterford or Sligo (Monday – Friday, for opening hours please go to our find a station section) or from any USIT office.

T R A I N news

Stay Safe at Level Crossings

Iarnród Éireann’s 27-wagon freight train from North Wall to Claremorris en route at Monasterevin Station. Photo Neil Dinnen.

Longest freight train operates on Iarnród Éireann system A 440-metre long container freight train has run from North Wall to Claremorris in recent weeks as part of Iarnród Éireann Freight’s trials of longer freight trains, designed to boost the competitiveness of rail freight to industry. The trials will see the maximum freight train size increase from 18 wagons (36 twentyfoot equivalent units – TEUs) to 27 wagons (54 TEUs). As well as increasing the capacity and competitiveness of rail freight services, the environmental benefits of rail freight would also be enhanced – currently moving freight by rail instead of road

reduces emissions up to 75% per unit, and longer trains could see emissions reduced to as little as one-tenth of the road equivalent. Trials undertaken in recent weeks have included a 440-metre, 27-wagonlong container train weighing 1,110 tonnes and a 390-metre, 18-wagon-long pulpwood train weighing 1,100 tonnes. There was also a weight test with ballastladen hobs wagons weighing an incredible 1,310 tonnes. In 2015, 96.4 million tonne kilometres of freight were moved by rail in Ireland. Iarnród Éireann is working with existing customers as well as

freight forwarders, ports and the Irish Exporters Association to identify opportunities and trends for rail freight development within the Irish and European markets. Major rail freight traffics currently include container traffic from Ballina to Waterford and Dublin Ports and pulpwood from Ballina and Westport to Waterford Port, as well as zinc ore from the Tara Mines in Navan to Dublin Port. Subject to the successful conclusion of trials, the company hopes to commence the operation of longer freight trains for customers from the fourth quarter of 2016.

To mark International Level Crossing Awareness Day in June, the Road Safety Authority (RSA), Iarnród Éireann and the Commission for Railway Regulation (CRR) launched a campaign to make road-users aware of the importance of safety at level crossings and the dangers of their misuse. Particular focus is on the 149 unattended level crossings on roads around the country, usually found on minor or private roads where there are relatively low levels of traffic. To support the level crossings campaign, an online information video has been produced to advise road-users how to use this type of crossing safely. The video provides step-by-step advice on how to approach and cross an unattended level crossing. Road-users are reminded that they are solely responsible for opening the gates before crossing the tracks and ensuring the gates are securely shut again once they have crossed to the other side. Failure to shut the gates could have serious consequences for another road-user. If you’re using an unattended crossing, remember the Rail Cross Code: Road-users are advised to use the‘Rail Cross Code’ when crossing an unattended level crossing:

• Always expect a train. Failure to do so could have serious consequences. • Stop, look both ways, and listen - unattended level crossings are guarded by iron gates and accompanied by stop signs. You should stop your vehicle well clear of the gates to allow enough room to open fully away from the tracks. • Give way to trains. Let any approaching train pass, then look both ways again • When the railway is clear, cross quickly - Only when the tracks are clear in both directions should you cross. Drive across the train tracks and stop well clear of the crossing on the opposite side. • Shut and fasten both gates after you - even if there is traffic behind you, make certain the gates are properly shut before moving on. If you have opened the gate, you are responsible for ensuring that the gate is properly shut afterwards. Don’t assume someone else will do it. If the gates were open when you arrived and you have crossed the railway, make sure you close and secure the gates afterwards. Don’t just leave them open or assume someone else will close them. Not only is this reckless, it is against the law.

Cabra Community Garden launched on rail-owned land Community groups from the Cabra area were on hand as the sod was turned on a new Community Garden at Liffey Junction, Cabra, on railway land provided by Iarnród Éireann and CIÉ.

he first project of its kind on the Iarnród Éireann network, the Community Garden will be developed to allow local community groups to come together and learn new skills from each other. The plot of land is along the canal walkway between the canal and the railway track near Broombridge Station, and was identified by local groups as a naturally beautiful plot ideal for such a purpose. The garden enhances a long-standing relationship between Cabra for Youth and Iarnród Éireann who, with CIÉ Group Property, are delighted to be in a position to make this happen. The lease is now complete and the sod turning coincided with the plot being handed over to the local community to enjoy and nurture for many years to come. Iarnród Éireann will continue to support the project through its environmental department with their extensive knowledge and experience of biodiversity in the rail environment, in planting in the area, and will provide storage facilities for groups using the Garden. Minister for Public Expenditure and Reform and Fine Gael TD for Dublin Central Paschal Donohoe TD said: “This is an example of our public agencies and communities working together to enhance the lives of all citizens. It is of such clear mutual benefit and

I congratulate Cabra for Youth and other members of the community for their initiative, and Iarnród Éireann and CIÉ for responding so positively.” Don Cunningham, Director Infrastructure, Iarnród Éireann said: “The hard work of Cabra for Youth and the policing forum, sports and community groups we have worked with to date has lead to initiatives like the Community Garden which begins here today. We are delighted in our small way to be able to help in enhancing community facilities with our colleagues in CIÉ.” It is the latest phase of an ongoing partnership between Iarnród Éireann, Cabra for Youth, and other local groups and agencies in the area, which has the dual goals of supporting facilities for the community and reducing instances of anti-social behaviour in the Broombridge Station area. Previous initiatives have included landscaping and station improvement at Broombridge, art installations at the station, partnerships with DCU for clean-ups, support for sports clubs in the area, storage for the local kayaking club and more. As well as improving the station environment, the partnership has seen a reduction of over 50% in anti-social behaviour incidents. St. Catherine’s Senior Girls’ School, Ratoath Road, Cabra who have an active Green Schools Committee also attended the event.

Iarnród Éireann teams up with Samaritans to promote the power of listening This July Iarnród Éireann and Samaritans want to promote the power of listening as part of ‘Talk to Us’, Samaritans annual awareness month. Samaritans volunteers will be present in train stations across the country throughout the month to encourage people to talk about what’s troubling them. Listening is crucial to helping people find their way through their problems, and the charity would like to encourage people to seek help early, rather than when they reach a crisis. They want to encourage people going through a tough time to talk about their problems either by reaching out to someone they feel comfortable talking to and by calling Samaritans on 116 123. The charity is also encouraging people to become better listeners by following their listening tips. Samaritans Listening Tips or S-H-U-S-H!:

Show you care: focus just on the other person, make eye contact, put away your phone. Have patience: it may take time and several attempts before a person is ready to open up. Use open questions: that need more than a yes/no answer, & follow up e.g. ‘Tell me more’ Say it back: to check you’ve understood, but don’t interrupt or offer a solution Have courage: don’t be put off by a negative response and, most importantly, don’t feel you have to fill a silence. Check www.irishrail.ie for where Samaritans will be throughout the month, and if you ever need the Samaritans help, phone 116 123.

OLYMPICS

KING RING Of The

Firmly fancied to swap London bronze for Rio gold, Michael Conlan tells Colm O’Regan why he fears nobody in the ring – and no mosquito outside it.

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here’s a tangible air of conviction about Michael Conlan as he puts the finishing touches on his preparations for Rio. “Other Irish sports come in with the underdog mentality – and Irish boxing was like that for a long time too. But now it’s changed; we’re the guys who come in with the confidence and belief. The footballers this summer were hoping they could do it, and everybody was like, ‘Wow, that’s a good performance’. But going out there with the vision that you’re going to win? Believing is half the battle – if you believe it, it’s a lot easier than going in there hoping.” Indeed, that confidence seems to permeate throughout the Irish team, from third-time Olympian Paddy Barnes to debutante Joe Ward. It’s strong enough to make a description of ‘medal hopefuls’ dreadfully inadequate. And well it should, as between them, they’ve gathered just about every prize in the sport…not that too many people might notice. “I hate the fact that people miss and all the other competitions I go to, and how well I’ve been performing throughout the last four years,” Michael laments. “I love the support we get for the Olympics, but since the last games I’ve won the Europeans, Commonwealth and the Worlds – and not a lot of people saw them. The Commonwealth Games was on the BBC, and that sort of, I’m lucky to be from the North; if I was from the South, people “ You’d best believe the boxing world did, though. The World Championships, in particular, singled out the Belfast fighter as the man to beat in Rio. Though a certain Ms K. Taylor of Bray had been single-handedly keeping goldmines in business over the past decade, the win saw the 24-year-old become the first male winner from this country – something of which his literal and figurative sparring partner Paddy Barnes is regularly reminded. “Ah, I’ve got to remind him that I’m the world champion,” Michael grins. The two are notorious for winding each other up, so we’re prepared to hear some zingers, but it’s nothing but kind words today. “It’s great to have Paddy as captain of the team, and being the flag-bearer at the opening ceremony. He’s been a mentor within the squad since 2012, and he’s a great leader. I’m very proud of him.” Last time, rather than carrying the flag, Paddy was carrying a handwritten sign flaunting his

Twitter handle and soliciting sponsorship; shortly after the procession had concluded, the terrible twosome were charging around the Athletes’ Village grabbing selfies with stars of the Games – Usain Bolt, Serena Williams, Novak Djokovic, and the entire US women’s gymnastics team among them. No such fooling about this time, though. “I think we’re probably on the hit list this time, there’ll be people looking for selfies with us,” Michael laughs. “But it’s going to be very different. I’m not going to take selfies, or to have a mess around; I’m going there to win gold, and that’s my only focus.”

Zika can stay Zika, and the mosquitos can bite me all they want. It’s not going to change what I am there to do.

To that end, he contends the experience of four years ago will stand him in good stead. “I’ll know how to handle the pressure this time, and be ready to come into an arena where the noise will be blistering. I don’t remember the first round of my opening fight in London, because I wasn’t expecting what I was walking into. This time I’ll have full expectations, and my full concentration on what I have to do.” He continues: “I was only a boy back then. I’m a lot stronger now, and mentally too. I’ve improved so much since London, and I’ve got the experience too. They’re going to be looking at me as the world’s best, and saying that I’m the guy to beat. I’ve just got to prepare for all of them.” One face he’d certainly like to see in the other

corner is that of Cuba’s Robeisy Ramirez – the man who beat him four years ago. “I’d love a rematch,” Michael enthuses. “When he beat me, he had a lot more experience, and he was on top form; this time, it’s all changed. Hopefully it does happen, because I truly believe I’ll get my revenge on him.” Far more likely than nerves to keep Michael awake at night is Luisna, his 14-month-old daughter – if, that is, the unforgiving schedule of international competition allows him time at home. “It gets harder as she gets older,” he admits. “In fact, I was lucky to be here when I was born. The World Series of Boxing meant I was competing in a different country every second week – thankfully my girlfriend Shauna was overdue and I got home just in time. But even then, I couldn’t stay the night; I stayed until 3am, then had to go and get a flight. She knows I’m going away all the time and it’s difficult seeing her face as I leave. FaceTime means you’re maybe not missing someone as much as you used to, but I’m still missing an awful lot.” With so much time spent on the road, a lot of distractions are needed – with one made right on his doorstep. “I love Game of Thrones. How can you not? It’s so intense, I think it’s unreal.” He smiles sheepishly: “I love Khaleesi as well. I’m a bit of a film geek too, and watching films on the laptop is one of the main things you’d do when you’re away. My younger brother is into his technology, so I’ll probably have him put some on a hard drive before Rio; I’ll spend my days in my room so I don’t catch the Zika virus.” With that, he bursts out laughing – a pretty good indicator of where he stands on the tabloid-friendly health scare that’s caused half of the planet’s golfers to have a change of heart. “I’m there to win a gold medal, and I’m not worried about anything else. If you catch, you catch it, and we’re not planning on having kids within the next six months anyway – when we are, I’ll just get tested and make sure I’m clear of the virus. We travel to different countries all the time, and you’ll have mosquitoes, and bugs, and everything else; the Olympics has caused this drama to be made, but I think it’s exaggerated.” This take, it should be noted, comes off the back of expert advice. “The doctors have told us not to worry – a bit of mosquito repellant and you should be fine. Zika can stay Zika, and they can bite me if they want; it’s not going to change what I’m there to do.”

OLYMPICS

He’ll be cheered on by most of his family, including his girlfriend, his daughter, and his mother and brother Jamie. “That means it’s my two younger brothers holding down the fort,” Michael grins. “They’ll be having parties, bringing girls round – my mother’s more worried about them than she is about me!” Making it a truly family affair, though, will be dad John, one of the head coaches travelling with Team Ireland – but not, we trust, giving his son an easy time of it? “I don’t get away with anything,” Michael guffaws. “And you know what, I’m glad of it. We’ve

had our ups and downs, and it’s hard to have him in camp sometimes, but every time he’s been in my corner at a competition, I’ve won. It’s fantastic to have his experience – and then you’ve got Zaur Antia, probably the best coach I’ve ever met. Having those guys behind me is amazing.” At this point, Go Rail is well and truly sold, prepared to buy into the confidence oozing from Michael’s every pore. I mention I’m looking forward to watching the action, believing Michael Conlan will win gold. “No,” he corrects me. “You can watch knowing Michael Conlan will win gold.”

Y Barnes Stormer Michael’s best buddy already has a pair of Olympic medals to his name – but with the professional ranks calling, he tells Colm O’Regan he’s determined to capture the ultimate prize in Rio.

ou’d say he’s worth his weight in gold, but you’d probably feel short changed. Paddy Barnes might be one of Ireland’s most decorated sportsmen – European Champion, twice Commonwealth Games Champion, and the only boxer in the nation’s history with a pair of Olympic medals in his collection – but at a fighting weight of 49kg, or a bit below eight stone in old money, you wouldn’t be emptying Swiss vaults to make the deal. But with mere m onths to go until the eyes of the world turn to Rio, it’s only 400-odd grams on Barnes’ mind. Olympic glory has thus far eluded the Belfast man, but this time the nation – and the world – expects. A lot of weight, then, on his shoulders? “You don’t think about who’s favoured to win,” he says, his rapid-fire delivery almost as quick as his ramrod left jab, his accent as heavy as a hook to the liver. “In my head, I’m expecting to win anyway. I know how hard I train, so I really don’t have any worries. The only way things get messed up, or that I get beaten, will be because of myself.” On two previous occasions, the Holy Family Boxing Club product has fallen short at the biggest stage of all, and been forced to take his licks. Indeed, even casual fans may recall the name of Zou Shiming, the Chinese phenom who twice dashed the Irish fighter’s hopes hopes. Before looking ahead to this summer, we have to ask – from a safe distance, of course – if the wounds of those disappointments are still sore. “Some things,” he sighs, “you’ll never get over. In London four years ago, I lost on a countback (a tie-breaker of sorts, when fighters finish the bout level). If I had won that fight, my opponent in the final would have been a guy from Thailand who suited my style completely. I know I would have beaten him. I would have been Olympic champion.” If that narrowest of defeats was tough to take, it was nothing compared to the ignominy endured

four years earlier, when the judges, surrounded by hometown fans in China, declared the fight a shutout: Zou Shiming 15 - 0 Paddy Barnes. “In London, I walked to the ring thinking ‘If I don’t get a point here…’” he grins. “After the first round, I asked my coach what the score was. He told me it was eight points to five. I didn’t even bother asking which of us was which – I knew I had a point anyway!” “But the Beijing fight was ridiculous,” he continues, the pain of the memory etched on his face. “I knew the better boxer won, but the scoring was absolutely terrible. I was beaten fair and square, but 15-0 wasn’t fair – it was embarrassing. Properly done, it might have finished 12 - 4, and I wouldn’t have reacted the way I did.” Immediately after that fight, he raged: “They can keep the bronze medal for all I care. It’s for losers.” Needless to say, the passage of time has changed his outlook in that regard – even if the medal, and its 2012 counterpart, has earned him a somewhat dodgy nickname. “It’s not just the boys in the gym, even kids on the street will say it to me; Paddy Bronze,” he laughs. That, though, may soon be a distant memory; his focus lies on making this a golden year. “Things are definitely different in an Olympic year. Boxers train on a four-year cycle, and everyone is focused on qualifying for the Games. It’s nice for me to have qualified so early by winning the World Series of Boxing, because it means I can focus on the bigger picture. I’ve become more educated in the importance of strength and conditioning, and how it’s not just about training hard but training smart; everyone can lift weights, for instance, but a boxer has to do it differently.” A miniscule improvement would have brought gold in London, but there’ll be no such tight margins this summer. “I don’t feel it’s one percent. I feel 100% better than London. I can’t see anyone other than me winning that title.”

OLYMPICS

Teenage Kicks School’s out for Ellis O’Reilly, and the gymnast tells Colm O’Regan why she’s hoping for top marks in Rio.

ife for a teenager can be tough at the best of times, but Ellis O’Reilly has been taking things to new extremes. For the 18-year-old, preparations for her first Olympic Games have come hand-inhand with the stark reality of her A-Levels; in fact, when Go Rail comes calling, the London-based teenager has been called to school to put the finishing touches on her coursework. “It’s been hard,” she shrugs, in an early contender for understatement of the summer. “I’ve been lucky that all my A-Levels were based on course work, rather than exams. It means that if I’m in training camp, I can take my laptop with me; I don’t think I’d have been able to do it otherwise. But now that I’m finished with them, I can concentrate completely on my training – it’s taken a lot of the pressure off.” A test event last April saw Ellis secure her spot at the Games. That qualifying event also meant that she got a sneak-peek of Rio de Janeiro – and, contrary to many sensationalist headlines, she was altogether impressed with what she found. “It was absolutely amazing,” she gushes. “I don’t know exactly what I was expecting, but it was a lot better than I thought it was going to be. Now, my competition was delayed by 45 minutes because of a power cut – but I’m sure that it’ll be perfect next month.” Alongside her on that trip – and, indeed, ready to take his place at the main event – Kieran Behan is a constant source of support. Having made it to London four years ago, our other elite gymnast is more knowledgeable than most of what awaits the pair.

I think all gymnasts dread the beam. One fall there can be really costly. I’m probably happiest on the vault. “He’s been fantastic,” Ellis reports. “He’s got the experience of 2012, and he’s always incredibly supportive. He’s given me a few ideas of what it’s going to be like, and he helps me stay focused and keep my nerves under control.” And when you’re back-flipping along a six-inchwide beam, you need to stay pretty cool. “I think all gymnasts dread the beam,” she confesses. “One fall there can be really costly. I do like all four pieces, but I’m probably happiest on the vault.” Exactly what vault we’ll be seeing remains a mystery – behind the closed doors of training camp, work is being done to upgrade the routines that will get a run-out in Brazil. One thing we do know, however, is that this writer’s idea of a floor exercise to the soundtrack of an Irish jig is a non-runner. “That would have been good – I’ll bear it in mind in future,” she laughs (diplomatically, we fear). “My coach, along with my choreographer, picks out music, and then we all sit down and figure out what would suit. It’s a hard choice to make, so it

helps when we can make the call between us.” While coach Sam James has become like family in her own right – “my mum constantly reminds me I spend more time with Sam than at home” Ellis chuckles – there’s quite the support network behind her. “My mom was a competitive swimmer, and coached swimming too, so she knows how sport works and how dedicated you need to be. My older sister Jenna is a boxer who’s won five national championships, and both my younger brothers box as well. We’re a pretty competitive family – even if it’s a game of Monopoly, we’re all pretty driven to win.” And as well as her natural fire, there’s extra motivation before she jets out, following the unfortunate death of her grandfather Leo, the man who qualifies Ellis to represent Ireland. He passed away in June; it’s served to further focus his granddaughter. “It encouraged me to train even harder, so that when I compete, I can make him even more proud.” Because gymnasts’ careers tend to end incredibly early, Go Rail has the odd experience of asking a teenager if she’s pondering retirement – but the answer is a definitive ‘no’. “I’d like to move on to Tokyo in 2020,” Ellis asserts. “As long as you stay injury free and fit, you can go on a lot longer than before; I go to an osteopath every week to put me back together. As I get older, more natural strength will come into play, which will hopefully help take me to a higher level. I can get the experience of this Olympics under my belt, start to mature, and start looking towards the future.”

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round the house, Natalya Coyle is rubbish when it comes to fixing the wifi. For us mere mortals, this feels like an important fact to cling to, since she seems to excel at nearly everything else; grinning, she describes her skills as “akin to Lara Croft”. And all going well, the bar – five bars, in fact – will be raised once more in Rio. “In London, I went in with the ambition of getting a Personal Best in every event, and that’s what I did.,” she says. “It’s the same plan this time – and my times have dropped hugely in the four years already.” Considering her exploits four years ago were good for an unexpected ninth-place finish, a top performance here could result in a spot on the podium – not that, in a sport like this, any result can ever be deemed a complete surprise. “You can always aspire to a medal, because it’s quite unpredictable. The person who’s winning after the first event can very easily finish last – and sometimes the other way around. It’s really vital that you concentrate on one event at a time, so you need to be mentally strong.” “We work with a great sports psychologist,” she continues. “That’s really helped me. I used to go on a massive downer if I lost a few hits in a row in fencing, but that’s where having better psychology kicks in. It’s something I always have to work on, because there’s so many ifs and buts in our sport, and with such a long day it’s easy to get swept up in the emotion.” It’s not just a long day, but a long wait too. Since the Modern Pentathlon needs to use so many different venues, it’s usually one of the last competitions to take place; indeed, it was the very last day when Natalya finally sprang into action. That means the fun and games of the Olympic Village – that mystical place of questionable repute – is still something of a mystery. “All the athletes who compete at the end are in their own little section – just because we’re going to bed earlier and what have you. Everyone else is having fun because they’re finished, but I wasn’t part of that. I got to hit the McDonald’s that night, but that was the height of it.”

This Modern Life The weird and wonderful sport of Modern Pentathlon provides two of our best medal hopes. Colm O’Regan talks to Arthur Lanigan O’Keefe and Natalya Coyle.

our years ago, a competitor testing positive meant Arthur Lanigan O’Keefe was parachuted into the field at the eleventh hour; this time, he goes in as a bonafide medal hope. “My mum texted me the other day: ‘A once-ina-lifetime experience – except twice!’” he smiles. “But actually, it’s only once, because London was completely different. I was on holidays in Greece, I hadn’t been training, I had no conditioning. All indicators are that I’m a completely different athlete now. I’m glad to have the experience, because the Olympics are a different beast, but it’s not just about competing this time; I’m going there to win.” If he manages, the gold medal will join its European Championship counterpart in his collection – and, given that no competitor from outside of Europe has ever triumphed in Olympic competition, that’s a pretty good omen. It must also give a significant boost to his confidence? “It’s massive,” he replies. “Natalya and I do a lot of relays, and she often passed the baton to me in a high position, contending for a medal. That changed my perspective, in that I wasn’t there to come 15th or something, but rather to win. I brought that into the Europeans and the plan worked perfectly – and, again, changed the way I saw things. I thought I’d be tense going into this last month, but I’m feeling really calm because I know I’m in such an incredible position. I have a very good chance of making the dream come true.” Though there’s one variable that’s out of his hands. “I’m a big believer in preparing completely for every situation, but the only thing that’s out of your control is what horse you get on the day. Four years ago, I was about to qualify outright; I could have knocked seven fences and still come second, which would get me to London. Then the horse fell over, I fell over, he refused to jump, we knocked I-don’t-know-how-many fences – and it had done the exact same thing to the other rider earlier on! It won’t happen in the Olympics, where the standard of the horses is always high, but occasionally, you’re going to draw a dud.” Fingers crossed there’ll be no such bad luck this time around.

Type Cast

Conor Purcell meets an Offaly designer documenting Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signage, one town at a time.

It’s

a unique aspect of the Irish countryside, and one often overlooked: the remarkable typography of our towns and villages. From pubs to grocery stores, hardware shops to post offices, we are blessed with a design aesthetic of our own; one that is now, thankfully being documented. Trevor Finnegan, a graphic designer from County Offaly, has spent the past five years documenting the facades of Ireland’s towns and villages. It is an interest that stems from his father – an architect – who used to collect old enamel signs from the sites he worked on. “He used to get them at auctions as well, and he would put the signs up on the garage at the end of the garden. I would be out the back garden playing football and would be intrigued by them,” Trevor says. During his first year studying graphic design at the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, he began to take photographs of the signage as part of a photo project, and his passion for Ireland’s typographical heritage has grown from there. “I started taking photos of the signs I knew in Offaly. I realised then that a lot of the signs were being removed and not being replaced. A lot of the shops were being bought by developers and that was my reason to start documenting them before they were gone forever.” Indeed, many of the signs Trevor has photographed have already been taken down, or painted over, whether they are protected or not. “A lot of the signs are meant to be protected, but I have seen protected signs in Dublin painted over – I even wrote a letter to Dublin City Council regarding Kennedy Pub on Tara Street, which was taken over and the old protected sign was paiinted over. There is meant to be protection, but it doesn’t happen in practise,” Trevor says. Luckily, things are better in other parts of the country, particuarly the west and southwest. “Along the Wild Atlantic Way, there is definitely more of an emphasis on keeping the signs and restoring them, and that might be due to the tourists that go there.” The community feel in rural Ireland also helps. “People want to keep their family name on the shop, and there is pride in making sure the signs look good,” he adds. There are differences around the country though, with the Midlands particularly bereft of the old signs. “I am not sure if that’s to do with the economics of the place – a lot of the residents have left, or maybe there are less tourists, and so less motivation to keep them.” The style and quality of the signs varies depending on where you are in the country as well. “The signage does differ depending on where in the country you are. In the southwest, in places like Clare, Cork and Kerry, there is definitely an emphasis on ceramic lettering. In many places the shopfront would be built and then a stonemason would be brought in to carve the letterings. This would only happen there – in the northwest it would be different, they would use molds, while in other areas they would be handpainted on the wood,” says Trevor. The one thing that doesn’t change wherever you are in the country is the function of the shops. Many of the signs advertise what are in effect community centres: hybrid DIY/grocery/pubs that operate as social spaces in often isolated rural areas. “The function of the shops really depended on the size of the town – if it was a little village, there would often be one shop for everything. There would be a pub, a grocer, a DIY shop, and except for the post office, it would all be in the one place. They were a social place for the community – they would go there, buy their groceries and then meet up with neighbours or have a drink. It was a big thing back then – a place to meet people, to shop, to socialise,” says Trevor. “There was a 90-year-old woman in a pub called Clancys in Midtown Malbay in Clare, where there were two different doors: one for the woman’s living room and one for the pub and you could sit at the bar and chat to the woman in her living room. That’s the side of Ireland that is disappearing.”

“It’s very important to document these signs; you don’t see them anywhere else in Europe” For Trevor the stories and people he meets on the road are as important as the his role in documenting this little-heralded, but important side of Irish design. “A lot of the places were just someone’s house, so I would always knock on the door and let them know what I was doing – you wouldn’t want to scare them by just taking photos of their house! I would chat to people, and at first they would be hesitant, but if you explain what your intentions are, they are happy enough. A lot of the pubs and shops would be very social and they would tell you stories about the characters in the area, which is one of the most interesting parts of the project for me: listening to the stories from the locals. There’s so much more to it than the signs – it’s great to hear the stories and history of the area.” For Trevor, there are more journeys planned with his wife Karen and his dog, Ralph. “It’s a hobby at this stage. We have seen parts of Ireland that we would never knew existed, tiny villages off backroads where it might be just one pub or shop in the middle of nowhere. We drive around and keep an eye out for any interesting signs,” he says. “It’s very important to document these signs – its unique to Ireland. If you go to England or Europe you will see very different shop fronts and very different signage, so it is something special to Ireland. It was one of the reasons I started to do this. I was in the South of France recently and they have their own style, where the Basque Region has its own style, and we have our own style.” Recent years have seen a resurgence in interest in this type of graphic design with increased media coverage of the art. “There’s a company called Freeneys who did a lot of signs, such as the Ambassador Cinema on the top of O’Connell Street. They would have hand-painted the signs for the films as well and done the delivery vans for the likes of Cadburys. John Freeney is there now and he runs classes where people can learn how to hand paint signs,” says Trevor. Trevor hopes to publish a book in the future, but for now, is looking forward to packing up his tent, and discovering another piece of rural Ireland. www.revertdesign.net/our-type

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Something About Simone

The celebrated Irish designer Simone Rocha tells Roe McDermott about motherhood, her creative process, and why, even after living in London for nearly a decade, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still no place like home.

imone Rocha attended her first fashion show before she was a month old, and throughout her childhood and adolescence six months never went by without her making an appearance in the audience or behind the scenes of a major catwalk. Such is life when you’re the daughter of John Rocha, the Hong Kong–born, Dublin–based designer, and his Irish wife and business partner, Odette. But while John Rocha may have planted the seeds of style in his daughter, she made them bloom on her own merits, and is now a renowned fashion designer in her own right. Her debut collection was one of the highlights of London Fashion Week 2010, and since then, Rocha has swept up awards and accolades. Despite this, her most exciting arrival has been her daughter, Valentine, who was born last December. “Motherhood is good,” Rocha says. “It is a balance between family and work life, but it’s really special. Valentine was my boyfriend’s great Uncle’s name and I really liked it cause it made me think of love.” Her baby daughter was an influence in her most recent collection, which evoked the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Tactile and practical, the collection is filled with long Linton tweed coats with soft, baggy pockets; dropped shoulder lines and full sleeves; gauze aprons layered over dresses with semicircles of beading over the breasts. There were also celebratory gold cloque and embroidery; sweaters with unravelling threads at the hem, and pink bathrobes. For Rocha, the collection was a way of exploring her experience of pregnancy and motherhood. “This collection very personal, I was designing how I was feeling, which was this exploration of motherhood and the whole journey from birth to life. In particular I was looking at the Victorian nurses’ uniforms as a narrative, and working with shape and form in a very feminine way. Then it was an exploration of textiles with unravelling tweeds, embroidered tulles and hand knit.” Rocha kept working late into her pregnancy and her collection hit the catwalks just two months after Valentine was born, a challenge Rocha faced head on. “Unfortunately I didn’t have a choice, I’m an independent label and only have a small team, so I couldn’t take a season out, but I felt pretty alien when I was pregnant so it was nice to be working soon after, as I started to feel like myself again. I really enjoy time off with my family or friends, but I am nearly always thinking about something which could turn out to be inspiring.” Rocha finds the catwalk shows a highlight of the design process, where she can see her creations come to life in front of an audience. “When the whole collection is realised, when the models have their hair and make–up done and the music is playing, it’s a pretty special feeling. But I also love developing fabrics and working with silhouettes to challenge myself to do something interesting.” Rocha often finds herself described as a “British” designer and listed in many a “British Designer To Watch” list – a label she’s always

“I loved growing up in Ranelagh. I wasn’t the most diligent in school, I was more interested in doodling than homework.”

quick to correct. “I always say that I am of course Irish and grew up on Dublin and studied in NCAD, but then I moved to London to do my masters in Central St. Martins, so the industry sees me as a London-based designer as I show my collections in London. But I am always happy to correct someone and tell them I am Irish!” Rocha’s heart is still in Dublin, and she says her first memory was “sitting in a highchair in the kitchen in Rathfarnham.” She grew up in Ranelagh, which was where her creative talents began to emerge. “I really liked growing up and being a teenager in Dublin, it was very free and fun. I wasn’t the most diligent in school to put it lightly – I was much more interested in doodling

on my notebooks than doing homework, and really liked hanging out with my friends. I was a little quiet and always like drawing, painting and working with my hands.” Her first memories of becoming interested in fashion began as many little girls’ did: playing dress up in her mother’s clothes. “I would always tie all my mother’s scarves around me like dresses. l also looked at books and magazines a lot as a teenager and loved the imagery. I think that made me more interested in fashion.” Ireland remains a huge influence on Rocha’s work, as past collections have explored traditional Irish clothing and textiles. “I draw inspiration from the traditions of how women used to dress in the Aran Islands and the West of Ireland, even from my old school uniform!” Her latest work also has its creative roots firmly planted in Dublin. “I just produced a book called Gorse with photographer Colin Dodgson, who took photos of my Autumn/Winter 2016 collection in Dublin. In the studio right now I am working on Spring/Summer 2017 which will be showing at London Fashion Week in September.” Though she hasn’t lived in Dublin for nearly nine years, every time Rocha visits she notices how the creative community continues to evolve. “I know fashion really has a voice, There was some beautiful work for the NCAD graduation collections this year. I love publications like Thread and shops like Makers and Brothers, although when I’m home I tend to shop in the traditional Irish shops on Nassau Street for great macs and jumpers.” As for living away from home, Rocha loves the creativity of bustle of the London design scene – but there’s no place like home. “I miss the people the most and the banter – so many things make Dublin special. It’s pretty magical.”

GO DESTINATION:

Dublin-Limerick

A Memorable Ride

to the

Walled City of Limerick

A broadcasting icon, and one of the nicest guys you can meet, Ian Dempsey tells Hannah O’Brien about his favourite destination, and why he loves traveling by train.

Ian Dempsey is one of Ireland’s most loved broadcasters with a career spanning more than forty years. From acting as sidekick to infamous alien twin puppets Zig and Zag, to waking up the nation on Today Fm, Dempsey has cemented his position as one of the country’s most-loved broadcasters . What’s nice about interviewing Dempsey is that he is every bit as jovial and down to earth in person as he appears in his broadcasts. A rascal by nature, it only seems fitting that his favourite train journey should also be filled with all manner of mischief. “I love going on train journeys. It’s a fantastic way to travel, as you’re a hop, skip and a jump away from wherever you want to go.” Ian is inseparable from partner-

travels are not always peaceful. The other passengers on the train can’t get enough of him. An occurrence which amuses rather than irritates Ian. “If you put your name over the chair, they’re like ‘Ah, tis yourself, ah God, how are Zig and Zag?’ even after all these years they still ask about Zig and Zag. It’s amazing how much of an effect that has on people” he smiles. Dempsey seems to love the attention, and is happy to chat with those who approach him. “People will sit down bseide me. I think they feel when you’ve either been on television or radio that they kind of know you and that they can sit down and have a chat, and it’s lovely talking to them.” His favourite destination is Limerick, which may seem an unusual choice but Ian loves the

“You see all kinds of unusual situations on the train. You see groups of girls and fellas, old couples who have been together for fifty years. It’s a real melting pot of society.” in-crime Mario Rosenstock. The pair have become train aficionados while touring the country with Rosenstock’s show. Like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid, they have faced some colourful adventures on route to Limerick. Dempsey can barely suppress his laughter when describing a journey where he was particularly naughty. “Coming back to Dublin, Mario was coming back first class and I hadn’t bought a first class ticket. I went in and sat with him, then I was caught. The inspector came around and said you haven’t got a ticket for this carriage. So I had to pay my extra fee. I felt like an outcast,” he giggles. A title one gets the sense he rather enjoys. As a household name, his

Limerick’s iconic King John’s Castle

people there. “When you arrive in Limerick station, there’s a great friendliness and you’re straight out into a row of shops, with lovely colours and welcoming voices everywhere. It seems to be right in the centre of everything, there’s a great buzz,” he enthuses. For the broadcaster, the train journey is a great study in human nature – the perfect opportunity to see different people in their natural habitat and not a bad setting to get inspiration for his show either. “You see all kinds of unusual situations, you see groups of girls and fellas, senior couples who have been together for 50 years going off on a journey – a melting pot of society. “I learn a lot from these journeys. I love watching them and I never stop loving what I do.”

From Paris with Love British filmmaker Hamish Hamilton has directed live concert films for some of the biggest musical acts on the planet. But in the wake of the deadly terrorist attacks on the Bataclan last November, shooting U2’s Paris shows proved a particularly memorable experience. Interview: Olaf Tyaransen

Throughout their near 40-year career in rock ‘n’ roll, U2 have cancelled barely a handful of shows. Following the deadly terrorist attacks in Paris last November 13th, however, the band felt unable to proceed with their planned HBO live broadcast special of their acclaimed iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE at the Accorhotels Arena the following night. After all, just a few kilometres away at the legendary Bataclan venue, 89 music fans had lost their lives in a hail of bullets at an Eagles of Death Metal concert. The show must go on, however, and less than a month later the band defiantly returned to Paris to bring the first leg of the tour to a close with two sold out concerts on December 6 and 7 (the original plan had been to finish the tour in their native Dublin at the end of November). Given the tragic circumstances, these shows in the shell-shocked French capital were far more intense and emotional than any that had come before. The 20,000 capacity venue had room for 6,000 standing spectators, but on both nights the entire audience stood throughout the gig. “Tonight we are all Parisians,” Bono announced before a rousing ‘Pride (In The Name of Love)’. “The world is from Paris. We stand together with the families who lost their loved ones in Paris. We stand together with families in San Bernardino. We stand together with families in Beirut and

Istanbul. We stand together before those with false ideologies of the god they serve.” These stirring moments were captured by British filmmaker Hamish Hamilton in the just-released 2.5 hour U2 iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE Live in Paris film, which includes guest performances by The Eagles of Death Metal and, on the deluxe version, Patti Smith (who performed ‘Gloria’ and ‘People Have The Power’ with the band on the first night). The deluxe version also features behind-thescenes footage, additional music videos and live tracks, and a tour of the stunning visuals narrated by the band’s creative consultant and lifelong friend Gavin Friday. “Directing iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE was scary,” Hamilton reflects. “A technical nightmare married with a creative rollercoaster. It challenged everything I knew on so many levels. What blew my mind were the multiple narrative arcs combined with the number of emotional arcs you are taken through as you journey through the show. There are a lot of good shows out there – but very few great shows.” U2 have a longstanding and well-deserved reputation for staging amazing live concerts. iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE kicked off in Vancouver in May 2015 and, to date, has played to more than 1.2 million fans in 22 cities across Europe and North America. The show features multiple performance areas plus a state-of-the-art 100 foot

“No other band would sit for days on end and discuss a show in such an intense way”

LED screen suspended above a 118 foot walkway running the length of the arena floor. “Each U2 show is incredibly different,” Hamilton says. “They are a band who consistently reinvent the live concert experience. In this particular show I think they created a bit of a masterpiece, frankly. For a band who are regularly creating masterpieces! I’d never seen a screen set down the middle of the room and I’ve never seen artists jump inside the screen and fly around in it and interact with the video. “It was surreal in the way that they have used all the new technology available in the world, and they’ve used it to great creative means. It’s very smart, very wonderful.” Hamilton has previously directed a number of U2 concert films (beginning with U2 Go Home: Live from Slane Castle in 2001), but iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE was a very different beast to previous tours. It required a lot of research. “I saw the show probably 25 or 30 times across the tour,” he explains. “Which again is fantastic if you’re a fan of the band – and I am a fan of the band, have been since I was very young. I used to buy their first records so starting to work with them in 2001 was a blessing and a joy.” How hands on were U2 during the editing and

post production process? “Well, it’s U2 and they’re VERY hands on!” he laughs. “They’re kind of hands on, feet on, chins on, bodies on... they’re on! And the thing with U2 is they’re all very clever! And you know when a band has toured with the largest TV screen in the world they know they know one or two things about framing shots or cutting shots.” Hamilton has previously worked with the likes of the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Peter Gabriel, Bryan Adams, Robbie Williams and Justin Timberlake. However, he maintains that none of these artists are anywhere near as perfectionist as U2. “No other band I worked with would sit for maybe days on end and discuss a show in quite such intense ways. At the end of some days you’re drained, you’re absolutely drained. The thing about it is that not everybody agrees all the time, which again is a very wonderfully interesting thing. With U2 there’s a lot of very strong, smart opinions in the room and the discussions are honest, frank, lengthy… and it doesn’t always end up with it going one person’s way.” While he saw the show about 30 times, Hamilton maintains that the Paris gig he filmed was easily the best of the bunch. “I mean, I would say this,

but I genuinely think the one that we shot was the best. Obviously because of what happened in Paris, there was an extra dimension to what was being performed. There was an electricity in the room. Of course, I knew and I think everybody else knew that Eagles of Death Metal were going to take the stage at the end, and that made it a very unique evening. Not one that I’ll ever hopefully be in again – for very obvious reasons. I think that for me was the best show for me.” It made world headlines when U2, in a strong display of rock ‘n’ roll solidarity, handed their stage over to the traumatised American band at the end of the second night. The sight reduced Hamish Hamilton to a puddle. “When Eagles came on stage, I definitely welledup,” he admits. “The shock of seeing them was really intense. I mean, that was the first time they had been on stage after Bataclan. We were only a few miles away when it happened, and they were in front of a Parisian crowd, and I just was thinking, ‘Crikey, what’s going on in their heads?’ And also just thinking about all the people who’d lost their lives or friends or loved ones. A whole waft of emotions came through your mind as they stepped up. It was just an amazing moment.” U2 iNNOCENCE + eXPERIENCE Live in Paris is available now on DVD, Blu-Ray and download.

The Byrne Identity G

abriel Byrne has crafted a career on playing complex characters – characters who are often initially portrayed as calm and stoic, but are then revealed to have an undercurrent of volcanic emotion, whether it’s radical empathy or a propensity towards violence. From the chilling but brooding Tom in Miller’s Crossing, the affable but threatening Keaton in The Usual Suspects, to the personally tormented therapist Paul in In Treatment, Byrne has tackled multiple genres with depth and power. He is that rare actor who can hint at the inner lives of his characters with a mere glance. Byrne, now 65, also embraces contradiction in his own life. Warm and mischievous, he is also philosophical and passionate, jumping from thoughtful musings to enraged diatribes in a second. As conversation moves from ideas of masculinity to Hollywood’s diversity problem, and the U.S. elections to Repeal the Eighth, Roe McDermott sees all sides to Gabriel Byrne, and finds them all as compelling as his performances.

Roe McDermott meets Gabriel Byrne – never afraid to speak his mind – who holds forth on Irish politics, feminism and the global economic collapse.

R McD: You grew up in Ireland in the ‘50s and ‘60s, son of a cooper and a nurse. Becoming an actor must have seemed like an unusual ambition. GB: I certainly had never met an actor, I didn’t know what actors

“There’s so much to be excited about! I know it sounds kind of corny, but I’m excited about life and living.”

did, to be honest, I just knew that I loved going to the cinema. What I did by going to the cinema – and this is where I think I came into contact with the notion of the reality of cinema and the reality of what we call life – was to try drag the emotion of the cinema out into the street. But as soon as you got into the street it evaporated. So you had to try keep the feelings that you had in that dark room with those crowds of people. And cinema touched part of my impressionable mind that I could have never articulated at that age. So becoming an actor was an attempt to get back into that world of the cinema.

er it comes from Hollywood or the mainstream press. The nature of these so– called ‘debates’ is just a carnival, the real issues that affect us on the ground, will affect us, our children, our children’s children if we’re lucky – these things are not discussed. They become about Donald Trump’s hair, Chris Christie’s weight, Hillary Clinton’s pantsuit. The real issues are kept from us, and we are diverted by this carnival, which is treated like reality television, where we are encouraged to choose people on whether we like them, or their clothes or whatever – instead of holding these people to account.

Hollywood has been at the centre of some controversy lately, particularly regarding its treatment of women and people of colour. What have you thought of those conversations about gender and race? It’s something I’ve long believed. I thought when the Oscars stuff came up about black people not being recognised, it’s true only to a certain point. First of all, you have to look at what the Oscars are. The Oscars were invented to publicise the business, and the prize–giving at the end of the year rewards certain themes, certain actors and certain films. It’s absolutely true that black people are excluded; black writers, black directors, black actors – but American society, even if we’re just talking about Hollywood, is much more complex than what we see on the screen. You will never find a Korean actor being the lead in a movie simply because he’s a really good actor. And American films reflect the white status quo. They always have, and perhaps now people are beginning to see that mainstream films are prejudiced against minorities. For example, you have a situation now where gay actors are afraid to come out and say that they’re gay in fear that studios won’t cast them in the next film, because studios think no one wants to see a gay actor in a romantic or masculine role.

You live in New York now so this election will have a real impact on you – how do you feel about the fact that Donald Trump has progressed so far in the race? There’s a piece of footage everyone should look at, and it’s Donald Trump arriving in Shannon Airport to set up his golf course or something. His private jet taxis down the runway and there’s a red carpet rolled out for him, and a harpist and a singer, all welcoming him to Ireland, alongside the Minister for Finance, Michael Noonan. That’s how craven we are to people like Trump, who is regarded as a serious individual, as indeed are all the tax dodgers who are all housed right now in the Irish Financial Services Centre and pay 12.5% tax. I’ve been raging about this for years. So I take it you are not too hopeful about the Irish political landscape either? The illusion that there’s a difference between Fianna Gael, Fianna Fáil and Labour is a joke. All of them are elitist, neoliberal parties who don’t really have any power because they’re being told what to do by corporations and the World Bank and the IMF. I was disappointed that the dissatisfaction and the frustration of so many Irish people regarding what happened with the bank bail–outs wasn’t harnessed into any legitimate and effective political movement. What we need to do is displace all those politicians, get rid of them, and put in a government that works for the people, because these governments work for corporations, not the people. It’s an absolute disgrace that in 2016, the so–called centenary, there are more homeless people in the streets than ever, and yet these tax dodgers down in the IFSC are allowed get away with it. Doesn’t anyone go up to these guys and say ‘We’re putting up those taxed to 14.5%, and we’re putting that extra 2% into hospitals and education’? To me, that’s what’s going on in Ireland, so I’ve absolutely no faith in these politicians.

And of course those limitations affect women in the film industry as well? Absolutely. It’s worse for women, maybe. You see that the female ingéntue in films now is now getting younger and younger, and those roles are more sexualised than they’ve ever been. The predictable passage of 99% of actresses goes from hypersexual ingénue to completely desexualised older woman, and that happens faster than you can say ‘sexism.’ I remember being at a meeting once in Hollywood, and a very very well–known actress’ name came up for a part, and a producer said, ‘well I wouldn’t have sex with her.’ So the sexism is atrocious. And it affects men’s roles as well, they only get to portray one–dimensional, Western ideals of masculinity? Nobody’s allowed to be anything very complex one way or the other. You have the good guy, the bad guy, the good guy’s friend, the good guy’s girlfriend – you can almost predict them. And if you look at that itself as a commentary, you see these Batman and Superman and Spiderman reboots, you can’t not make the connection between the rise of America as an Imperialist superpower and the rise of those superheroes in films. This notion that people have that this one man will save us all – whether it’s a superhero or whatever, trickles into society.

One major political and social conversation in Ireland right now is the Repeat the 8th movement – what are your feelings on that? It’s always really hard to disentangle morality and politics. My feeling is that a woman is entitled to power over her own body. There’s no argument over that, for me. And if the situation was changed, if men were raped and were able to get pregnant, those laws would be reversed immediately. On a positive note – what are you really excited about at the moment? There’s so much to be excited about! I know it sounds kind of corny, but I’m excited about life and living. If I do feel so passionately about politics and cinema – and I do believe they are connected – it’s just because I’m involved in life and find it exciting. I don’t ever want to get to a place where I just sit back and say ‘Screw it, it’s gone beyond my interest or involvement.’ I think the challenge, especially as you get older, is to make every day as exciting as you can, and to be curious about the world, and to be up to the challenge of embracing new things and fighting the good fight.

Right, the idea that one American man will solve the world’s problems – a terrifyingly prescient idea given the U.S. Presidential election race? Right – we learned that lesson in 2008 and we’re about to learn it again, that no one politician can save anybody. It has to be about what we said earlier – the questioning of society and thinking for oneself and being connected to alternative sources of knowledge and not just trusting the mainstream, wheth-

EAT CELEBRITY TABLE

Róisín O Dubliner Róisín O tells Anne Sexton how she writes music, why she tries to stay off the festival trail, and her love of pizza.

“I

love bread, it’s my downfall,” Róisín O laughs as she tucks into her pizza. “If I had to eat one food for the rest of my life it would be bread or pizza, which is basically bread.” We are having an early dinner at the Old Music Shop – and thankfully, pizza is on the menu. It’s an apt place to meet one of Ireland’s hottest young singers. In a past life, this bright restaurant was a Walton’s music store. This history is dotted across the walls, which are decorated with music memorabilia, instruments and the iconic Walton’s signage. A good feed is warranted. Róisín has been in the studio all day. We both begin with a Caprese Salad. That’s healthy, right? Granted, there is a mound of gorgeous buffalo mozzarella in front of us, but that’s as it should be. “I love good food. But I am really bad when I am touring,” Róisín confesses. “If I don’t have time for dinner before a gig I’ll get a kebab after the show. I’m also really bad if there’s a rider with crisps and chocolate. I’ll be munching away backstage.” Róisín’s latest single ‘Give it Up’ was released in May and she is currently working on the rest of her second album along with her writing partner, John Broe. The song has received a great response along with plenty of radioplay. Is it an indication of what we can expect from her second effort? “The single is a lot more poppy than I usually am. I was really happy how people reacted to it – it’s probably the best reaction I’ve got to a song. But I think it will be the most pop thing on the album,” she says. Although she has a clear idea of how she wants the record to sound, Róisín does not like to be creatively restricted either. “I like my writing to be a bit more organic. I like to go into a session and see how the song goes. I don’t want to be rigid. I think that’s the way to get original music. You can’t go in thinking that you want to sound like a particular band or song. I can’t be Beyoncé but I can be the best version of myself.”

Not Everyone Is Egotistical Róisín, of courses, comes from Irish musical royalty. Her mother is Mary Black and her brother is Danny O’Reilly of The Coronas. She did not, however, always plan on going into the family business. “When I was younger I thought I’d be a business woman. I remember when I was ten or eleven thinking there was no way I would be able to be a singer, that I was just not good enough. Then when I went to college and I did a music degree, I realised that I wanted to be a musician and that I was going to do it no matter what. The chances are slim that you’re going to be a huge star, but I just want to be able to sing. I don’t care if I get to play the 3Arena or if I only play gigs in Whelan’s – if people are happy to hear my music, I’m happy to sing for them.” We both lick our lips: the Caprese Salad has gone down a treat. Is she inundated with opinions from the rest of the family about what she should be doing musically? “I do value their opinion,” she states, “but I have enough confidence to know when to listen and when to say, ‘No, this is the way I feel about it’. But they have a well of knowledge and they love me – and anything they say is only for my benefit. I know they have my best interests at heart.” The mains arrive: that pizza for Róisín – and a fine looking portion of fish and chips for yours truly. There’s nothing like indulging in the familiar pleasures! Between bites, Róisín explains that, having just played Longitude, she is now planning to write, rather than gigging through the summer. “I’m really trying to concentrate on the album,” she laughs. “I like to get into the headspace of writing. I love festivals though, and I love camping. Electric Picnic is one of my favourite weekends of the year. I wouldn’t miss it, but other than that and Longitude

Róisín tucks in to some well-earned pizza

“I don’t care if I get to play the 3Arena or if I only play gigs in Whelan’s – if people are happy to hear my music, I’m happy to sing for them.”

EAT

On The Menu I’ve been trying not to go too mad. You could go to a festival every other weekend, but I need to batten down the hatches and work.” Róisín is not one for “schmoozing backstage” she says. She prefers to watch the bands and spend time with her friends at festivals – but on occasion you do meet special people. “You know who I’ve met a few times is Hozier. He is the most down-to-earth guy. I was hanging out with him

at Longitude and obviously when people see him, they want to take his photo. He gets mobbed a bit but he is so polite. I love meeting people like that. It makes me feel better about the industry. Not everyone is egotistical. A lot of people in the Irish music industry are pretty good. There’s a mentality of like, ‘Who do you think you are? You don’t want to be getting too big for your boots’. I think that’s great.”

The Old Music Shop is a bright, casualdining restaurant, based in the Castle Hotel on Frederick Street North, just off Parnell Square. Róisín Ó and I both had the Caprese Salad (¤5.50) to start. This is a classic tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, served with basil pesto and olive tapenade. They also do a tempting Artisan Platter for sharing, as well as bruschetta, fishcakes and lots more. For her main course, Róisín enjoyed a 12-inch Americana pizza. There’s eight to choose from (and toppings can be added) – she picked pepperoni, jalapenos, red onion

and spinach (¤12). I had the fish and chips with tartar sauce (¤15.95) from a main course selection that also includes Sirloin Steak and Fillet of Irish Salmon. They also have a selection of gourmet burgers. The portions were generous and so we couldn’t manage dessert – but the Old Music Shop has a classic selection, including a salted chocolate fudge brownie (¤4.95) and a baked lemon cheesecake (¤5.95). They also offer wine by the glass or bottle, and a range of beers and soft drinks.

EAT

A MATTER OF TASTE Stuart Clark Brings You The Latest Foodie News Cork This Way Cork’s Franciscan Well Brewery is hosting the Great Irish Beer Festival, which is coming to City Hall from September 22-24. Black Donkey, Boundary, Galway Bay, Mountain Man, O Brother, Eight Degrees, 9 White Deer, Rascals, Rising Sons, White Gypsy and Yellow Belly are among the other 20 artisan micros who’ll be showcasing their frothy wares. With accompanying live music from the likes of The Frank & Walters, Crow Black Chicken, Slow Motion Heroes, MKAI, Hope Is Noise and King Kong Company, it promises to be quite the People’s Republic knees-up!

Howth’s Aqua is a winner

Seaside Themselves With Joy Taste of Success

The good folk at Aqua in Howth are tickled all sorts of colours following their Luxury Seafood Restaurant category win at the World Luxury Restaurant Awards, which took place recently in Switzerland. Located at the end of the West Pier in the historical building that once housed Howth Yacht Club, Aqua has been cooking up a storm since New Year’s Eve 1999, with their Dressed Dublin Bay Prawns & Home Cured Beetroot Gravadlax, Castletownbere Crab Claws and Carlingford Oysters among our favourite things to eat in the capital. There’s also lots of great veggie and meaty fare served in the beautiful dining room, which looks out on both the sea and the local fishing fleet, which provides them with lots of their super-fresh ingredients. See aqua.ie or ring (01) 832 0690 for bookings.

Aungier Danger

Dublin Food Co–Op Rocks Fighting the good fight since 1983, The Dublin Food

Co-Operative specialises in organic and environmentally friendly fare. From farmhouse cheeses, fresh fruit and baked that morning breads to Puglian olive oil, Greek treats and North Indian gourmet delights, there’s something to tantalise all tastebuds. Located at 12 Newmarket, Dublin 8, the Co-Op is big on Fairtrade and wholefoods, with a wide range of dietary requirements catered for and a café that’s perfect for meeting friends. They’re open WednesdayFriday from noon-8pm, Saturday from 9.30am-5pm and on Sunday from 11am-5pm.

Fishing For Compliments The fishy treats don’t end there with Domini Kemp, Catherine Fulvey, Martin Shanahan and Paul Flynn all singing the praises of the Fresh From… The Pier Rustic Smoked Fish Pâté, which is available in selected SuperValu stores nationwide. Made from premium flakes of hot smoked salmon with mackerel, crème fraiche, capers, lemon and dill – yum! – it’s the brainchild of Dubliner Ken McHugh who was runner-up last year in RTÉ’s The Taste Of Success series. When not tantalising out tastebuds, the Dubliner is one-half of band I’m Your Vinyl who scored a massive 2015 hit with ‘Erase It’. He’s not alone in combining foodie and rock ‘n’ roll pursuits, with VANN MUSIC’s Phil Costello the man behind artisan Dublin doughnut shop Aungier Danger – make sure to visit their pop-up in Arnotts – and Chic drummer Ralph Rolle looking to bring his Soul Snacks Cookie Company to Dublin having already taken New York and Tokyo by biscuit-y storm. Ralph is also jetting in with both oven mitts and drum-kit for the Theatre of Food at Electric Picnic.

BUSINESS

A Fine Pair

Greystones twins Stephen and David Flynn have become two of Ireland’s most successful food ambassadors, with a savvy business sense matching their undoubted enthusiasm. They tell Hannah O’Brien about the secrets of their success. Greystones twins Stephen and David Flynn have become two of Ireland’s most successful food ambassadors, with a savvy business sense matching their undoubted enthusiasm. They tell Hannah O’Brien about the secrets of their success. Before I get a chance to talk to the twins, I am put on hold by their assistant, Sara. “Hold on for a second,” she says, “they’re doing handstands.” A pause. “We’re good. They’re vertical again.” As introductions go, it’s pretty apt, given the 36-year-old twins, Stephen and David, are two of the most energetic foodies you will ever meet. The brothers made a name for themselves through their Greystones café-cum-restaurant, The Happy Pear, as well as the two books they published under the same name. Relentless promoters of vegetables in particular and healthy eating in general, have seen their star rise in the growing ‘foodie’ movement. The lads were not always so health-focused though. “We grew up eating a standard Irish diet,” says Stephen. “Potatoes, two veg, meat, loads of pints and chasing women.” So how did this all change? Travelling on individual “journeys of transformation”, the two lads decided that their “priorities had shifted and that they wanted to start a healthy food revolution,” says David. Armed with business degrees, a loan, and some wise mentors to guide them, they opened the Happy Pear café in 2004. Things have grown since then, with their business now stretching to a family-run natural food store, two wholefood cafes, an evening restaurant and a super food farm in Kilcoole. In 2014 they published their first book, The Happy Pear, which is still in the top 10 on the Irish non-fiction hardback bestsellers list after two years, outselling Jamie Oliver and Nigella Lawson’s books at Christmas. “We really didn’t have any expectations”, says Stephen. “We just wrote it because customers kept on asking. It was something we felt we had to do. It wasn’t because we had high aspirations. It just happened and we were amazed.” Make no mistake, the boys are switched on businessmen, with around 100 staff and, accord-

ing a recent Irish Times interview, around 12 revenue streams, from the café and the shop to the online courses and YouTube content. Both twins deny there was every any master plan however. “We just gauged how we felt about each decision. Did we feel like better versions of ourselves? Each time we did, and that’s what motivated us to try and share that with as many people as we could.” Part of that ethos means embracing social media in a way that puts most Irish businesses to shame. With nearly 90,000 followers on Instagram alone they are adept at using as many channels as possible to spread the word. They even sent Jamie Oliver an unsolicited email. “He responded, saying ‘fair play lads, love it!’ He’s very supportive, and we go over once a month to record a video with him.” Their business sense can partly be attributed to their degrees – they both studied business in UCD. “Our degrees definitely give us an edge,” says Stephen. “Especially when leading a team of 100 people. From experience we could see what worked and didn’t. We also had the support of local businesses which was a great boost especially at an early stage.” “More than our business degrees though, it’s our passion to make it easier for people to eat better and our dream to make the world a happier and healthier place that gives us an edge.” Ireland’s growing awareness of the healthy food buzz has also helped foster their business as “it has become quite fashionable now,” says David. While spreading the love for healthy eating, they don’t want to impose their beliefs on people. “It can be a bit like talking about religion or politics where people get very emotional about it. We don’t want to rub people’s noses in it or make them question their choices. We’ve constantly strived to include people. And I think sometimes people get caught up on the attitude of I’m better than you because I’m a vegan.” “Our ethos is to include the positive. Encourage the greater message which is to eat more vegetables.” This attitude has gained them a loyal following all over the world. “This morning three people

got off the bus from Nashville and they told us “we’re coming to see the Happy Pear” which is pretty amazing,” says Stephen. “We’ve got this exciting project with SuperValu’s Good Food Karma Project, which is all about cooking more vegetables. We’re releasing a range of energy bars with SuperValu as well. We’ll be working with Jamie’s Food Tube Team in London on some projects. Then there’s our TV show which is going to be a big surprise.” Life is good for the Happy twins whose philosophy is to “share life together, build communities and have a laugh.” Their advice for budding entrepreneurs: “Embrace mistakes and think of them as brilliant teachers. Work really hard – we’ve been doing this for a long time and it’s hard work. Have great support around you – we’re lucky we have this because we’re twins. We love what we do – if you love what you do and commit to it you’re bound to succeed.”

BUSINESS

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our ethos is to include the positive. Encourage the greater message which is to eat more vegetables.â&#x20AC;?

DESTINATION

Fantasy Island Often overlooked in favour of its northern neighbour, Sri Lanka is India without the crowds. Conor Purcell discovers an island paradise of ancient ruins, golden beaches and emerald-green tea plantations.

ri Lanka is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely off the radar of Irish tourists. Located 30km off the south coast of India, the island is one of Asia’s gems: a mix of Thailand’s low-slung charm, India’s culture and heritage, and a magic all of its own. With everything from mountain tea reserves, spectaular diving, stunning Dutch colonial architecture and some remarkable temples, it’s one of the most interesting – and most beautiful – places in Asia. It also has a number of wonderful train journeys, and the rail network – a relic of its colonial past – is easily the best way to get around. Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo, is fairly forgettable, certainly in comparison with what’s on offer in the rest of the island. Most tourists head directly to their destination from the aiport, either by train or private taxi. Don’t let the gridlock of Colombo put you off, there’s a serenity to the rest of Sri Lanka, which could be down to island life, or to the country’s Buddhist heritage, but it is certainly less frenetic than India, and considerably less crowded. Most tourists visit for two reasons: the pristine beaches in the southwest, or the hill country which dominates the centre of the island. There is plenty to see elsewhere too, with the north in particular opening up after decades of war. The epic volcanic rock outcrop of Sigiriya – beside the town of Dambulla – is one of the most spectacular sights in all of Asia: a sheer rock that juts out of thick jungle

with the ruins of an ancient kingdom on the top. The ruins of Anuradhpura are also a magnet for visitors, the sprawling collection of holy sites a match for anywhere in South East Asia. Sri Lanka has some of the best beaches in Asia, many of which are completely deserted. The southwest of the island (about two hours from Colombo by car) is home to the best stretches of sand, with Hikkaduwa and Unatawana particularly nice. There are plenty of backpacker hostels and guesthouses along both these beaches, and with surfing, diving, and even whale watching on offer, there’s lots to do. Many are content to lie in a hammock however, and do nothing more strenuous then watch the world go by, a pastime enhanced with a cold beer in hand. Speaking of beer, there’s plenty of local brews on offer, from crisp Lion Lager to Bison XXXTRA Strong, which is brewed at 8.8% strength. Sri Lankans do like their beer strong, with a number of high-alcohol beers selling well, although for us, given the tropical climate, an icecold Lion does the job nicely. If you fancy something a bit more adventurous, you can head north, to a part of the island which was effectively cut off from the rest of Sri Lanka by a 26-year civil war. Jaffna, on the northern coast, is a wonderful mix of Tamil culture and colonial charm, while the nearby Jaffna Peninsula is dotted with remote temples and pristine beaches. This is an area off most tourists’ itinerary, and the intrepid traveler will be rewarded with genuinely friendly locals, and some

DESTINATION

“Sri Lanka has the low-slung charm of Thailand, the culture of India, as well as a magical vibe all of its own: an island of pristine beaches, jaw-dropping scenery and ancient temples” jaw-dropping scenery. Further south, the vast swathe of sparsely populated countryside known as the Vanni is little visited, even by Sri Lankans, although the remote church at Madhu draws a steady stream of pilgrims of all faiths while the war-torn town of Kilinochchi, former capital of the LTTE, provides a stark reminder of the destructiveness of the war. Regards food, Sri Lanka’s Dutch influence is very much in evidence, with lamprais, a mixed-meat curry wrapped in a banana leaf and baked in an oven, particuarly delicious. Southern Sri Lanka is all about the seafood, which is often stewed. Some dishes are similar to Indian food (the Rotti flatbread in particular), but the island has its own style – coconuts feature heavily and are delicious when ground with chili pepper and fish. Curry is on offer everywhere, and most hotels will have western dishes

as well, although the quality can vary. Our advice is to stick to the local dishes – it’s very rare you will go wrong. The country is known for its tea, and there is plenty to buy, from standard brands to high-grade teas that are unlike anything you have ever tasted. While there’s lots of wooden trinkets and carvings on sale around the island, most of it is tat, cheaply produced and sold only to tourists. Wooden, painted masks and elephants are also ubiquitous, but probably not worth buying. Galle, the old Dutch colonial town, has some nice shops selling everything from vintage tourism posters to artisan bags, and is probably the best place to pick something up. Sri Lanka is one of those countries that will live long in the memory – one of the most beautiful and charming spots in all of Asia, and somewhere you shouldn’t overlook.

DESTINATION

STAY Taru Villas, Hikaduwa Located in the chilled surfer town of Hikkaduwa, Taru Villas is a two-room boutique affair right on the beach. This is a basically a private bungalow, complete with a pool and a chef, as well as wifi, and all the other mod-cons you would expect. A sliver of paradise in one of the country’s best beach towns. www.taruvillas.com/906-hikkaduwa The Frangipani Tree, Galle A slice of minimalist heaven just outside the Dutch colonial town of Galle, this place is as chilled as it gets. With no in-room TVs, phones or wifi, there’s nothing much else to do but relax, or eat your way through the fantastic menu. The food here is great, there’s beach access (from which you can see the local stilt fishermen ply their trade), and a long, narrow pool, perfect for swimmers. www.thefrangipanitree.com Tea Trails, Hill Country A sprawling former hill station at the edge of Castlereagh Lake, this is about as luxurious

as it gets. Nestled in the central highlands, there’s trekking, fishing and hiking aplenty, as well as a butler if you prefer to stay enconsed in the hotel’s luxurious rooms. Once the centre of the local planter community, the whole area has a colonial whiff, as well as some of the best tea in the world. It’s not cheap, but then again, luxury never is. www.resplendentceylon.com/teatrails TRAIN JOURNEYS Ella to Kandy Time: 6 hours One of the most beautiful train journeys in Asia, this route starts at the picturesque hill town of Ella and winds its way north through tea plantations to Kandy. The Sri Lankan rail network was built by the British to transport tea and coffee from the hill towns to the coast, and the whole network is still used today. At each station, local vendors will embark, selling everything from freshly cut pineapple to chili fritters. It’s a good idea to stock up at the stations as you won’t be able to get food or drink on the train. The views are spectacular throughout: sloping green tea fields,

ringed by spectacular mountains. Compared to India, the carriages are mercifully empty, and the carriages themselves, dating from the early 20th century have a charm of their own. Colombo to Matara Time: 4.15 hours This route hugs the coastline, heading south, with views of unspoilt beaches on your left and dense jungle on your right, it’s the perfect way to see the coast. This part of the country was hit hard by the 2004 tsunami, and there is a monument in Telwatta, to the hundreds who died when the sea swamped a passing train, The Queen of the Sea. It is worth getting off here to view the memorial, a beautiful bronze sculpure which uncompromisingly portrays the tragic scenes. Just before Telawatta is Hikkaduwa, a low-slung backpacker resort that is reminscent of Thailand twenty years ago. There are a number of classes available on all the country’s trains, with first class probably worth the extra cost. Most of the trains don’t have air-conditioning, so sit by a window to get some fresh air, and the best of the spectacular views.

CULTURE

Ernest Shackleton (The Shackleton Collection, Atheny Heritage Centre)

It’s The Taking Part That Counts It’s that time of the year again when we celebrate the history and heritage of Ireland. Many of the events that take place during Heritage Week are free and educational – and all are welcome to take part.

Railway workers (Irish Railway Records Society, George R. Mahon)

Kids on the Heritage Trail

Take a stroll through history this Heritage Week There’s more than 1,800 events planned for Heritage Week, which takes place this August. It is the perfect opportunity to learn more about every aspect of Irish life: our history, our buildings, our wildlife, our railways – and a whole lot more besides.

eritage Week, the annual celebration of Ireland’s built, natural and cultural heritage, takes place from 20 to 28 August. Over nine days, and inspired by the 1916 centenary commemorations, the Heritage Council is inviting locals and visitors to explore 100 Years of heritage and take a journey back through Ireland’s past century, exploring the lives of those who came before us. From open days at historic buildings to hands-on fun for children, there is something for everyone to enjoy in Heritage Week. You can find out more about life 100 years agothrough a series of exhibitions, activities, talks, craft demonstrations, re-enactments and tours. In particular, participants can explore the events of 1916 on a walking tour of Bray; journey to Athy to find out more about the brave exploits of Kildare-born explorer Ernest Shackleton; sea kayak through history in Ardmore, Co. Waterford; or find out more about the history of the railway at the Irish Railway Records Society, in Heuston Station, Dublin. Nature is an important part of Ireland’s heritage and there will be lots of outdoor activities on during the week. Discover dragonflies in the Phoenix Park, Dublin. Meet bugs and but-

terflies at Wexford Wildfowl Reserve. Find out all about Cork city’s otters, how they live, what they eat and how we can help protect them. Join a whale watch at your local headland, as part of All-Ireland Whale Watch day on Saturday 27 August. It is no exaggeration to say that this is the sort of thing that we do really well in Ireland. In fact, Heritage Week is officially Ireland’s most popular cultural jamboree, with more than 1,800 events, large and small, taking place across the country. Almost 1,000 local heritage enthusiasts organise events for Heritage Week – as do museums, libraries and OPW sites across the country. The point is to let them show you Ireland’s magnificent buildings, incredible wildlife, and forgotten histories. The organisers emphasise that this is your chance to get a new perspective on a wellknown site or discover a hidden gem. And you know what? They’re right. With great events happening throughout Ireland, there’s no excuse for missing out. It’s time to start planning your Heritage Week adventures. National Heritage Week: August 20-28 2016. To find out what’s happening near you visit www.heritageweek.ie or call 1850 200 878

A Little Night Jazz Dublin, August 22 - 26 An ecclesiastical escape from rush hour, A Little Night Jazz is a series of concerts in St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin. A virtuoso lineup of musicians from across the country will include Belfast-born singer Suzanne Savage, and the Crux Vocal Ensemble, who team up with saxophonist Natalia McGough to create a striking fusion of ancient chant and modern jazz. Mount Usher Gardens Tour Wicklow, August 23 Mount Usher gardens have been managed for more than 30 years and they are home to more than 5,000 species of plants, many of them rare and exotic. An admission charge applies, but the guided tour of the garden itself is free. The tour is a great way to understand all the work that goes into creating one of the country’s most beautiful gardens. Teaching A New Generation How To Care For Trees Limerick, August 21 Broadford Wildlife Arboretum, in Broadford village in Co. Limerick, hosts a free event in which participants will be taught the requisite skills for sound tree-care. Fusing nature and community pride, this will be the Broadford Wildlife Arboretum’s 17th consecutive event. Jailbreak 1916 - Live Escape Room Donegal, August 22 - 27 Visitors are challenged to escape from a locked cell in just 60 minutes, using historic clues hidden within the cell. Visitors take on the role of a rebel in the 1916 rising, who has been arrested and sent to jail to await execution. Jailbreak is a fun participatory event, in a historical setting, that challenges groups of two to six people to pool their brainpower and escape the room. Whale Watch Nationwide, August 27. As part of All-Ireland Whale Watch Day, the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group have organised a free land-based whale watch at local headlands throughout Ireland. There are no guaranteed sightings, of course – but should the weather be reasonable, there’s a good chance that visitors will encounter some of the marine mammal species of Ireland.

CULTURE

Heritage Towns Ireland is blessed with a number of historical towns – towns that have rich histories, and which still display that history today. From Dalkey in the east to Killaloe in the west and Kinsale in the south, we profile some of the country’s most beautiful heritage towns.

Cobh One of Ireland’s great port towns, Cobh has long punched above its weight in the country’s history. During the Napoleonic Wars between France and Britain, the town – due to its harbour, which is the second largest natural harbour in the world after Sydney – became an important military base, and many of Cobh’s buildings date from that time. The town was also the last port of call for the infamous, doomed ship, the Titanic, and indeed there is a number of Titanic-related sights to see there, including the Queenstown Story at the Cobh Heritage Centre and the Titantic Trail walking tour. Cobh also played a role in Ireland’s response to the Famine, when more than 70,000 people left through the port to escape starvation. From 1848 to 1950, more than 2.5 million people departed from Cobh. From the seafront, you can see Spike Island on the horizon, formerly a military base and a prison – indeed it was home to a widely publicised riot in 1985. These days it’s a tourist draw and there are tours around the fort, the cells and and the gun emplacements. Cobh is known for its hills and there are spectacular views of the harbour from many vantage points around the town. August is the best month to visit, as the spectacular People’s Regatta is held, which includes hundreds of boats, a fireworks display and performances from musicians from around the country. The Cathedral Church of St. Colman, more often known as Cobh Cathedral, is its most visible landmark, perched as it is above the town. It took more than 50 years to build, due to budget overruns, but was definitely worth the effort and houses the only church carillon in the country – essentially a musical instrument comprising of 49 bells which are played in sequence. Every Sunday, there are guided tours at 3.30pm. Cobh has plenty of good pubs and restaurants, many of which are dotted along the seafront.

Sorrento Terrace by Gerard Byrne

Nearest Station: Cobh

CULTURE

Dalkey Originally a Viking settlement, Dalkey is one of Ireland’s most picturesque towns, and has long attracted musicans, artists and writers, who like its proximity to the capital, but also it’s charming small-town feel. Formerly a medieval port, you can still see the remains of three of the eight castles that once looked out over the Irish Sea. It functioned as the port for Dublin during medieval times and regained its importance after the 1840s, when the newly constructed railway linked it to the capital. Many of the wonderful houses you can see date from that time, when the capital’s elites build summer houses along Dalkey’s coast. The main thoroughfare is Castle Street, a charming café and restaurant-lined boulevard, which attracts tourists and locals looking for a bite to eat – the Queen’s Steak Room is particularly good. You will never go hungry here! Dalkey Castle now functions as a heritage centre and hosts living history performances, as well as a writer’s gallery and a café – it’s closed on Tuesdays, but open every other day. August sees Lobster, Crabs and All That Jazz, a wonderful festival that combines jazz and seafood, with lots of free events dotted around the town. If all you want to do is amble around, then you are in luck: follow Castle Road towards the coast and you will end up at Sorrento Park, which offers spectacular sea views. Sorrento Terrace, a row of neat three-storey houses is one of the east coast’s most iconic sights, and you can get a perfect view of the Terrace from Vico Baths, a traditional swimming spot, where swimming togs are very much optional!

Cobh

Nearest Station: Dalkey DART station

Killaloe/Ballina Two towns divided by the Shannon and linked by a 13-arch, one-lane bridge, Killaloe and Ballina might be close, but they are in different counties, and they each have their own character. Killaloe is picture-postcard pretty, a gently sloping town that lies on the western side of the Shannon, just south of Lough Derg. Behind the town lie the Slieve Bernagh Hills, and the town and its surroundings offer plenty to see and do. The town itself is the birthplace of Brian Ború, once the High King of Ireland, and someone who’s name still rings out, long after he was killed in the Battle of Clontarf. The Brian Ború Heritage Centre traces the life of Ború, as well as the history of the town from the 10th century onwards. Located in what was once the lockkeeper’s residence, it’s also a great place to find out what else there is to see and do in the town. You can rent bikes there, and the Lough Derg Way and the East Clare Way offer spectacular cycling routes across the surrounding hills. Fifteen minutes north of

Dalkey

Kilaloe

CULTURE

‘Busy Day in Kinsale’ by John Ormsby the town you come across Brian Ború’s Fort, which dates from the time of his reign. Watersports feature prominently on both sides of the bridge, with sailing, kayaking, windsurfing and canoeing on offer. Across the river on the Tipperary side lies Ballina, smaller than Killaloe and less picturesque, although well stocked with pubs and restaurants. A great place for a meal or a drink is The Lakeside Hotel, which has been in existence since 1894. Closer to the bridge there are a number of pubs, including Flanagan’s and Molly’s. Gooser’s is further south, overlooking the Shannon and is always busy, particularly on sunny days. Nearest Station: Birdhill

Kinsale

Shopfront in Kinsale

A beautiful yachting harbour, Kinsale is one of the gems of the West Cork Kilaloe coastline. Its narrow streets are filled with wonderful restaurants, cafes and galleries and the town is overlooked by a huge 17th century fortress. The town has played a key role in Irish history – its unusual harbour has long been attractive to the Celts, Vikings, Normans and the English. It has also played host to a variety of pirates,

adventurers and bucaneers, all drawn to the town’s frontier spirit and natural, sheltered harbour. The town was the site of the Irish army’s loss to the British during the Siege of Kinsale, where the locals had gone to help the Spanish troops, who were under siege by the British. The loss marked the end of Gaelic rule of Ireland and ushered in the era of British rule. Things are slightly quieter these days, with your most pressing concern being which of the town’s wonderful restaurants to dine in. Kinsale is renowned for its culinary options, with a variety of world-class eateries dotted around the town. The Steakhouse, Bastion and the Black Pig are all worth checking out, as are the local pubs, which offer a warm welcome and a cold pint. If you want to discover the town with an expert, there is a heritage walk, an hour-long tour of the town’s most historic sites, where Kinsale’s colourful history will be explained. Further afield lies Charles Fort, a sprawling military construction built in the 1680s. It was designed by William Robinson, who also designed the Royal Hospital Kilmainham and there are guided tours available daily. This part of Cork’s coastline is filled with spectacular walking and bike routes, so if you want to discover the surrounding area, there is nothing stopping you.

FASHION

Go Rail

Fashion

As the warm summer days turn into cool autumn evenings, Roe McDermott has all the style tricks, tips and trends you need to bring your show-stopping style into season.

Wedding Guest Wardrobe July and August is the height of the wedding season, and if you’re going to be playing a supporting role in someone’s special day, count yourself lucky that your sartorial options extend in directions far more interesting than a white dress. This season, evening and occasion wear is all about stunning separates – and we do mean separates. There’s no cutesy matching here; this season is all about choosing bold pieces to create a look that is truly unique and all about you. Watercolour prints are huge this summer, bringing a mood of romantic expressiveness to womenswear. Simone Rocha’s collection featured yellow and green lily–inspired watercolour prints, while Calvin Klein came over all floral and romantic with dark blooms. Both all–over patterns and oversized placements can be used, and using a pure white base really highlights the fresh look of this trend, as your clothes become a canvas. Make sure it’s not too much white though – there’s nothing scarier than an upstaged bride on the rampage! Another trend that we love is the return of summer silks. Breezy and sensual, this look can follow the movement of the body in the dress (as seen at Calvin Klein), and it can transform into structured jackets (as seen at Givenchy). Look for silk skirts or flowing tops in deep colours for a touch of old–school glamour. When it comes to skirts, maxi and midi lengths are a must for formal events, and current prints, fabrics and silhouettes make these longer lengths even more glamourous. Look for midi skirts – with a bit of a mullet for an extra inch or two of glamour – with gorgeous embellishment or patterns, while maxi skirts in sequins or metallic can be beautifully eye–catching. Team these skirts with tops with sequinned, printed and embellishmed tops; throw in a glittery clutch and you’re ready to make your lifelong vow to fashion. Sailing Style The Breton stripe is never far from the summer catwalks, as New York fashionistas don their beachy best and take to a yacht in the Hamptons. Over this side of the pond, we’re relaxing the traditional French trend and embracing the sweet and soft side of sailor chic. Don’t worry – you don’t have to have an invite to Leo’s private yacht to rock this nautical look, which is perfect for the beach, a barbeque or

FASHION

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simply wandering around in the sunshine. Sailor stripes and their French cousin, the Breton stripe, are simple combinations of blue, white and red stripes. And they were huge this season, as ‘What shall we do with the drunken sailor’ played at Max Mara’s catwalks, while models showcased a collection that included nautical stripes, fisherman’s jumpers and rope prints. While Ralph Lauren kept his collection a la mode by combining crisp blue striped shirts with red sweaters, we’re liking the paler hues, which have a younger and lighter feel. Stick to delicate cornflower blues, clean whites and soft creams, and keep your silhouettes relaxed but still tailored. Shirt dresses and maxi–skirts with nicely structured shapes are the perfect garments to thrown on over a swimsuit and instantly look polished after the beach. Don’t forget your accessories, as they can bring your look from high street to high seas. Ditch the tatty totes and ratty flip–flops and look for elegant cream handbags to add some luxury and sophistication to your ensemble. Don’t forget elegant flats or chunky heels so you can balance on any boat in style. Throw in some gorgeous gold jewellery to compliment those beautiful seaside sunsets and some aqua gemstones to capture the sparkle of the water, and you’re ready to set sail. Asymmetrical A–list As the summer months give way to autumn, it’s time to start covering up again – but not completely. Sorry to disappoint all the perfectionists out there, but symmetry is no longer trendy. It has long become boring and predictable, which is why many designers,

including Prabal Gurung, Jill Stuart, DKNY and Narcisco Rodriguez, have embraced asymmetric lines and hems for this coming season. The graphic, modern and architectural nature of these striking silhouettes are going to bring a fresh and modern edge into your wardrobe. Asymmetry is actually the perfect trend for cooler months, as it allows you to flash just the right amount of skin. Shoulders and thighs are therefore the go–to erogenous zone for autumn 2016. From off–the– shoulder tops to asymmetrical necklines; side splits to mini dresses with one–sided trains, it felt like no runway was left out of this trend. To rock this look, keep an eye out for super structured dresses with asymmetrical hemlines that flash a bit of leg, or mini dresses with one– sided trains or mullets for a bit of drama. When it comes to tops and jumpsuits, look for slashed necklines or asymmetrical shoulders. One–strap tops or jumpers designed to sexily slouch off one shoulder are perfect – and bonus points if you can pair a slashed shoulder with an asymmetrical skirt for a look that is all about looking great from every angle. While the asymmetrical trend seems like a bold statement all its own, don’t forget your accessories. One–strap tops or slashed–neck jumpers are the perfect canvas on which to highlight a bold statement necklace, and the higher hemlines of asymmetrical dresses and skirts mean you can play with bold high heels with all embellishment and straps, whether your style leans girlie or gladiator. As you don’t want to detract from the impact of your exposed shoulder, avoid bags with straps and invest in a dramatic clutch, keeping the lines of your outfit uninterrupted and giving you yet another statement–making piece to play with.

1. Watercolour dress €170, Debenhams, 2. Blue Stripe Boxy T-Shirt €8.99, New Look, 3. White Colour Block Wrap Front Tie Waist Midi Skirt €19.99, New Look 4. Skirt €120, Debenhams 5. Navy Polka Dot Stripe Bandana Neckerchief €4.99, New Look

REVIEW Albums. Movies. Books

R E D H O T C H I L I P E P P E R S pg 55 GOLISTEN.

GOWATCH.

GOREAD.

We check out former teen-star Ariana Grande’s latest album, Irish singer Bronagh Gallagher’s latest release and we run the rule over the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ first album in five years, The Getaway.

Our DVD round-up includes Disney’s animated blockbuster Zootropolis, a cinematic snapshot of Miles Davis, and a claustrophobic, tense thriller centred around a punk gig that goes badly wrong.

We browse through Stuart Neville’s latest thriller So Say The Fallen, Lionel Shriver’s dystopian tale of a nottoo distant America, The Mandibles: A Family, 2029-2047, and DBC Pierre’s sideways look at writing fiction.

LISTEN

GOLISTEN. D A N G E R O U S

L I A I S O N S

The Go Rail team has chosen three artists that are the perfect soundtrack to these (occasionally) sunny days. We have picked one act has been performing on the stage since she was thirteen years-old, another who has always been close to Irish hearts, and a band thats’s re-emerged after five long years of silence. It’s hard to get a bead on the popstar Ariana Grande. Is she a child star all grown up in the Selena Gomez vein, or Lady Gaga, minus the pasted-on pretension? The twenty-two year old Floridian is indeed a graduate of the university of teen-stardom having picked up many of her 38 million Twitter followers via her starring role on Nickelodeon teen-drama Victorious. As with her contemporary Taylor Swift, she presents a slightly unnerving mix of squeaky clean and imperiously ambitious, while there’s something distinctly Gaga-esque about the sexualised bunny-outfit sported on the cover of her third album. For a mass-market entertainer, such a reluctance to neatly slot into a pigeonhole might in certain circumstances be considered a disadvantage. Yet, Grande puts her inscrutability to good use as she hooks with Britney Spears songwriter Max Martin and shares the mic with Lil Wayne, Macy Gray and Nicki Minaj on a record that seeks to position her as American pop’s latest sweetheart. Because we don’t really have a clear idea as to what Grande stands for, she inhabits personas easily, flitting from Spector-esque swoon-rock ‘Moonlight’ to pell-mell tropical house ‘Be Alright’ via the retro slow jam of the Martin-authored title track. The entire affair is machine tooled to death, yet, Grande remains alluringly unknowable throughout, an enigma concealed in plain view. Flying the banner for Irish music is Bronagh Gallagher. Still probably best known for her acting roles in the likes of The Commitments, Pulp Fiction and many others over a 25-year career, Gallagher’s musical side has been somewhat overlooked. On what is only her third album, she gathers together the cream of local session musicians, including guitar ace Conor Brady (who played on the original Commitments soundtrack) and drummer Dave Hingerty (The

Frames). Kicking off with a classic Phil Spector-ish, ‘Be My Baby’ backbeat on ‘Can You Hear Me’ and the sweet soul of, ‘Make It Easier’ it’s clear where her musical loyalties and inspirations lie. Her approach and singing style continues in the tradition of a long list of white soul sisters, past and present that includes Dusty Springfield, Lulu, Amy Winehouse and Duffy. (In fact it would be surprising if Dusty In Memphis wasn’t a major influence on the sound of this record – ‘Crimes’ could have been lifted directly from those 1968 sessions.) The single ‘Radio’ is a swampy, bluesy, brassy stew of a song – of the kind that Tina Turner would have routinely belted out on her revue shows in the ‘70s. But it’s on the steamy gospel of ‘Heal Me’ where she pleads for redemption like an old school evangelist, and the slow-burning, ‘Hand On My Heart’ where her voice really shines. In the style of Aretha’s, ‘Share Your Love With Me’ and Lorraine Ellison’s ‘Stay With Me Baby’, the latter is a tour-de-force of a performance from all concerned, with an arrangement straight out of the Atlantic Records studio rulebook. A strong collection of soul tunes that’ll bolster her reputation but probably a better bet to catch her on the road performing these gems live. Lastly, the Californication veterans Red Hot Chili Peppers return for the first time since 2011. “If this is going to work, we just have to throw ourselves off a cliff and see what happens,” said RHCP frontman Anthony Kiedis of his band’s mindset during recording sessions for their latest LP The Getaway. No strangers to a musical

gamble or three, the Funky Monks abandoned 30 odd songs ear-marked for their 11th opus and enlisted producer extraordinaire Danger Mouse to replace long-time producer Rick Rubin, who was not only their producer of the last 25 years, but the architect of their sound and one of the reasons why they broke into the rock mainstream in the first place. So...no pressure there then. Right from the get-go, the knob twiddler makes his presence felt as opening number ‘The Getaway’ boasts some beat-boxing, synthy wobbles and sweet backing vocals courtesy of That Dog’s Anna Waronker, putting a fresh spin on their distinctive sound. The Elton John featuring funky slow jam ‘Sick Love’ is another stand-out, as is the blaxploitation soundtrack informed ‘Feasting On Flowers,’ but as pleasing as those impeccably produced pretty ditties are, the record ultimately suffers due to a lack of dirty rockers to get the blood flowing. Only ‘Detroit’ and the blustering garage punk number ‘This Ticonderoga’ buck the trend. Though ‘The Getaway’ is by no means a misfire, a few more bona fide anthems would have the meandering album a much more memorable experience.

WATCH

GOWATCH. A N I M A L

K I N G D O M

Roe McDermott picks the best of the latest DVD releases for you to enjoy. From intelligent children’s films to action-packed superhero flicks and grisly thrillers, we’ve got you covered.

Disney’s Zootropolis is fun, charming buddy– cop adventure with a sophisticated centre. Set in world where animals peacefully coexist, bunny Judy Hopp (a delightfully peppy Ginnifer Goodwin) has to fight to gain respect as a cop – though her own prejudices emerge when she’s forced to team up with “sly fox” and hustler Nick (a perfectly dry Jason Bateman) to solve a career–defining mystery. Zootropolis’ metropolis and its citizens are perfectly conceived, as its central message. The humour lies in the charismatic characters, inventive car chases, pop culture references and a healthy dose of silliness and slapstick. But Zootropolis’ understanding of the rhetoric of racism and bigotry is astute, and adults will flinch in recognition of the upbeat characters’ coded interactions and prejudices. Zootropolis aims to teach children about the real power and danger of modern racism. But it also pushes against outrage culture, encouraging generosity as well as accountability, demonstrating through fun and adventure that calling people (or animals) into vital conversations creates allies and forges community more readily than calling people out. August sees the release of Miles Ahead, an evocative, impressionistic and freewheeling film about jazz legend Miles Davis. Don Cheadle directs and stars in a fictionalised, theatrical and suitably frenzied exploration of the jazz musician’s reclusive years. Set in 1979, when a reclusive, medicated Miles is interviewed by a Rolling Stone journalist (Ewan McGregor), the film unfolds in flashbacks. Snatching bars from Davis’ first marriage in the 1950s, and notes of his career after ‘Miles Ahead’ was released, Cheadle switches moods and eras with confident fluidity and mischievous wit. As the two characters muse about art, genius, love, sex and drugs, Davis’ temper, volatility, vanity and ego are played for darkly comic effect, but while Cheadle downplays the details of Davis’ domestic abuse, his potential for danger rings out, crystal clear. Cheadle’s performance is playful and electrifying, transcending the plot’s occasional bum notes. Davis’ music embodies the complexity, passion and mastery that Miles Ahead doesn’t quite reach, though fun is had trying. Also out in August is Louder Than Bombs, Joachim Trier’s subtle exploration of grief, fatherhood and family. Isabelle Huppert is compelling as Isabelle, a war photographer and matriarch that the audience gets to know through fragmented flashbacks of the family she left behind when she killed herself. The

Disney’s Zootropolis

cause of her death has been kept a secret from her troubled youngest son, Conrad (Devin Druid), whose volatile temper and inability to communicate worries his sensitive father Gene (Gabriel Byrne.) When Conrad’s older brother Jonah (Jesse Eisenberg) returns to the family home, it’s clear that he is considered the reliable and emotionally astute son, but his visit may just be and an excuse to avoid his wife and their new baby. Byrne, Druid and Eisenberg all give quietly beautiful and affecting performances, isolated by their inner struggles. As they merely survive the days, Isabelle interrupts the linear narrative of their lives through fragmented appearances. Trier manages to capture the power of the unexpressed and has created an artful meditation on the weight and myopia of our own struggles. Louder Than Bombs may have the title, but it’s Captain America: Civil War that has the explosions. Released in August, the intelligent plotting, character development and blockbuster action of the past two instalments comes to a thrilling apex, proving that Captain America may well be the most well–developed strand of the Avengers franchise. Acting as both a sequel to Captain America: The Winter Solider and Avengers: Age of Ultron, Civil War sees the Avengers come under scrutiny for the collateral damage they inflict during their terror–fighting missions. Facing the prospect of being controlled by the United Nations, the Avengers experience a violent ideological split. With complex politics

and the largest ensemble seen in a Marvel Studios film, the nuance of the argument and personal motivations could easily have been lost, but the writers (Christopher Markus and Stephen McFeely) and the directors (Anthony and Joe Russo) perfectly capture the characters’ personalities and relationships. With brilliantly layered performances from the entire cast and a truly genre–making showdown, Civil War is simply magnificent. In Jeremy Saulnier’s vicious thriller Green Room, punk band The Ain’t Rights are on the last leg of their tour. To earn enough money to get home, they take a gig in what turns out to be a backwoods clubhouse for White Supremacists. After witnessing a vicious crime, the young band barricade themselves in the venue’s green room, as ruthless gang leader Patrick Stewart and his army of machete–wielding “Red Laces” surrounding the building, waiting for them to emerge. Despite the band’s mohawks and screaming music, their youth and innocence are immediately felt when faced with the neo–Nazis. As the Red Laces embrace their instructions of “blades only, sloppy is fine” and attack dogs make mincemeat of their victims, Jessica Needham’s makeup team relish the Video Nasty– style slaughter. But the gore is matched with tension, as the claustrophobia and uncertainty terrifies, and the bleak grey surroundings offer no hope. As a gritty and grisly survival tale with wickedly nasty violence and pitch–black humour, Green Room is a red hot success.

READ

GOREAD. H I G H

C R I M E S

Kick your feet up and sit back with a page-turning, riveting crime novel, a futuristic story with political undertones and a mischievous, semi-autographical tale of how to create fiction.

Family, 2029-2047’ may have a dystopian feel, but author insists that “it isn’t sci-fi.” Normally, it would be difficult to comprehend her point of view, but given that Donald Trump is now the presumptive Republican party nominee for the US Presidential election, Shriver’s assertion makes perfect sense. The story is centred on the titular family, who are set to inherit a fortune from their 97-year-old patriarch, until the dollar comes under siege from a new international currency. Forced to take on menial jobs, the Mandible clan struggle to negotiate their way through this frightening new reality, though there is a ray of hope in the shape of the family’s resident oddball teen, Willing, an economics autodidact who quickly gets to grips with the unfurling financial chaos. Unsurprisingly, Shriver gets great comedic mileage out of the American political landscape – in one hilarious scenario, Mexico is forced to build a wall to keep out US economic migrants – and the book works both as a black comedy and cautionary tale. The Mandibles might just be the first great novel of the (hopefully shortlived) Trump era.

DBC Pierre

For fans of crime series novels, we have the perfect one to keep you guessing. ‘So Say The Fallen’, by Stuart Neville, is the latest of his investigative crime novels. His previous work ‘Those We Left Behind’, established the main character, DCI Serena Flanagan, as a genuine heroine of contemporary crime writing. Having seen her husband brutally beaten as a result of her investigations – and the related pressures on her family plain to see – there’s more to the novel than your average crime romp. There’s a beating heart in Neville’s writing, which still never strays into the dodgy ground of bleeding heart, but instead provides an assuringly human touch to raise the stakes. The writing

can be comparatively straightforward – and the dialogue particularly so – but it means the story rolls along at a considerable pace. This series is crying out for TV adaptation, it’s another solid step towards creating one of the most compelling and satisfying sagas in the genre for quite some time. For those who prefer something with a relevant political undertone, and a glimpse into what the near-future might hold for America, there’s Lionel Shriver’s latest creation. Her 12th novel is set in a chilling vision of the imminent future in which the US has gone into economic meltdown, ‘The Mandibles: A

Our final recommendation is a funny, thought provoking and occasionally batty must-read for any aspiring author. When DBC Pierre arrived on the literary scene in 2003 with the Bookerwinning ‘Vernon God Little’, it seemed that he had appeared fully-formed out of nowhere. Which he more or less had: “I started to write. It wasn’t a lifelong wish. I didn’t train for it, didn’t know any writers, editors or publishers. I just had a strong feeling with nowhere to go.” Subtitled ‘Writing Your Way Out Of It’, his fifth offering, ‘Release The Bats’, is a hugely entertaining, semi-autobiographical, warts and all guide to the art, craft and mysteries of creating fiction. In chapters such as ‘Bad Tequila’, ‘Crap’, ‘Drugs’ and ‘Weakness’, he examines the pitfalls facing any brave soul staring frustrated at a blank page all day. In others, such as ‘Characters’, ‘Surprise’, ‘Denouement’ and ‘Symbols’, he offers solid practical advice about storytelling.

GOWIN. GO RAIL COMPETITION

WIN A DINNER WITH WINE FOR TWO

AT MYKONOS TAVERNA

Authentic Greek food can be difficult to come by in the capital. But the beautiful Mykonos Taverna in Dame Street, Dublin 2 is the real thing. If you want to dine like a true Greek, the Mezzedes style will offer you all the staples of Greek cuisine: hummus, tastziki, stuffed pepper and much more. You can also choose from the classic fish selection: prawns, sardines, mussels and calamari, while the rich meats of the Mediterranean are cooked to perfection in a charcoal grill. With relaxed staff, vibrant murals, greek music and a rustic decor, you can bask in an unbeatable Mediterranean experience.

THE PRIZE: One lucky winner will enjoy a dinner for two with wine at the stunning Mykonos Taverna. Iarnród Éireann are also offering 5 runners-up prizes of 5 pairs of InterCity tickets To enter, simply email your answers to gorail@hotpress.ie. Please include your contact details, and let us know on which train route or at which station you picked up your copy of Go Rail.

THE QUESTIONS: 1. Where did the 2012 Olympic Games take place? – Athens – London – Beijing

2. Which pop star stormed the charts with Lemonade earlier this year? – Adele – Taylor Swift – Beyonce

3. What is the name of Netflix's hit prison drama? – Orange Is The New Black – 40 Is The New 20 – Crazy Is The New Normal

Terms & Conditions: The prizes are valid for one year, and subject to availability. No cash alternatives will be offered. Entrants must be aged 18+. Go Rail may contact competition entrants with details of future special offers. Your details won’t be passed on to any third party. Please specify in your email if you would like to opt out of this.