OMAG 10
section:
Spring 2011
College News
11 OMAG
Do it now Think Different: Profit, People and the Planet
Rosemary Brantley with Scott Williams (’90), Design Director for Olympic Apparel at Nike in Beaverton, Oregon
No Finish Line
Designing for Athletes and the Planet Where do I start? asked Fashion Design faculty member Jackie Wickser during a visit to the Nike cafeteria in the first week of her two-month sabbatical. The company’s commitment to sustainability in everything they do was evident in the variety of clearly labeled recycling bins and the eco-friendly cutlery, plates, bowls and cups. She quickly became part of the flow of ideas, meeting designers in the Advanced Innovative Technology Group. Their Considered Design Project, led by Rick MacDonald, represents Nike’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design innovation.
For the Hurley Nike project, students produced sketches that incorporate reversible fabrics and detachable elements
“Now that I know more about the importance of sustainability, I approach design differently,” says fashion designer Rosemary Brantley, Chair of Otis Fashion Design. “The new ‘triple bottom line’ is profit, people and the planet. If you take care of people and the planet, profit will follow.” She believes that we have no choice, that tomorrow is the new now, and that the whole fashion system has to change. Brantley is certain that sustainability is the megatrend that will dominate the fashion industry for years to come.
Working with Isabel Toledo and Patagonia, students designed multi-functional garments such as this jacket that becomes a parachute
Over the last seven years, Brantley has introduced design problems that address issues of local traditions and production; building supply communities; recycled, vintage, and found materials; and reuse, with mentors such as Alabama Chanin, Todd Oldham, Anthropologie and Yeohlee Teng. Last year, working with industry leader Patagonia and avant-garde designer Isabel Toledo, students designed multi-functional, fashionable garments, with the goal of doing the least harm to the environment. Otis students are on the front line of these changes in the industry. “Regeneration—Revolution,” their current project exemplifies this shift. As Brantley explains, “For the past twelve months, with support from Nike and Hurley, we have retooled our curriculum to teach the Whole System Change—a business model that considers profits, people and planet altogether. What can we create that reduces waste, uses less resources, and is more respectful of human life? Because of Nike and Hurley’s generosity, not only are talented and deserving students receiving scholarships for an innovative design education, but those students will eventually make our world a much better place.” Students are working in three teams in collaboration with Hurley Senior VP of Design John Cherpas and design team members Nimma Bhusri and Nadid Barienbrock; Nike VP of Apparel Product Creation, Diana Crist, and Director of Design Connections at Nike/Hurley/Converse/Umbro, Betsy Parker. The teams consider garment design in terms of its regenerative, heirloom, and sustainability aspects, with a focus on youth appeal. They explore personalization, self-expression, consumer participation, and input. Using reversible fabrics and clean stitching, they create garments with a “second life” rather than a “closed look.” Their designs incorporate seasonless looks; wrapping, tying and folding for flexible fit, detachable collars and cuffs; educational care labels; and repair kits. Youth leads the way, as Hurley’s tagline “Microphone for Youth” proclaims. Convinced that consumer habits are changing, Otis fashion design students intend to educate shoppers about the environmental issues that design and fabrication pose, including washing, excessive consumption of low-priced clothing, and the value of “heirloom” and multipurpose clothing. Their goal is to design investment-quality garments with sustainable materials and methods, always considering the global impact. Some were inspired by last June’s clothing diet, the “Six items, 31 days” web-based experiment in which people all over the world selected six garments, wore only these garments for a month, and blogged about their experiences. As one student states, “There is much more consumer awareness of ecological impact, and multifunctional fashion is becoming a trend.”
As they phrase it, “When it comes to finding the best solutions for both athletes and the planet, there is no finish line.” For example, Nike has recycled the ground-up soles of 21 million shoes for flooring in 285 sports courts. Their football jerseys for South Africa 2010, made from 100% recycled polyester, diverted 13 million plastic bottles from landfill. Wickser soon began working with Nike’s Advanced Innovative Technology and Materials team, experimenting with woven fabric rather than knits, to come up with high-performance garments. Woven fabric is more eco-friendly than knits because it uses less yarn. Nike’s “Whole System Change” approach depends on changes in technology. Using 3d software, their tech designers create patterns and sew them together, place the garments on an avatar, and motion-test them with the 3d figures, all within virtual reality. They send the virtual designs to Nike offshore prototype centers so that the contractors can more closely execute their prototypes. For the last six years, Scott Williams (‘90) Design Director for Olympic Apparel, has worked with industrial and fashion designers to meet Nike’s goals of performance and sustainability. Designed and built over seven years with a six million dollar investment, Nike’s environmental apparel design tool measures and reduces the impact of their products on the environment. Their designers evaluate new sports apparel design based on the “considered index,” which measures pattern marker efficiency (waste), garment treatment (dyeing, laundering, distressing), and materials (chemical and energy consumption, water use). As CEO Mark Parker stated, “We’re equally committed to leading our industry in climate change and sustainability. We’re entering a new era of open-source collaboration that commits to sharing intellectual and patent property. It’s the kind of behavioral change that can help lower carbon emissions, reduce waste, and close the loop on the resources required by product manufacturing.” Nike’s invitation to Wickser and Department Chair Rose Brantley to visit their Oregon campus and present “old school” hands-on techniques such as draping was one step in the whole system change that is now firmly implanted in Otis’ curriculum. This collaboration and sharing of ideas will inspire others in the fashion design industry to move more quickly toward a sustainable future.