Discover outdoor adventure in Eastern Townships

from Issue #46 - Ottawa Outdoors Magazine

Don’t get freeze-dried this winter

By Story by Katharine Fletcher | Photos Eric Fletcher

The Eastern Townships isn’t just that region southeast of Montreal where Conrad Black started his newspaper empire (buying The Eastern Townships Advertiser in 1969). It’s also home to crime novelist Louise Penny, who sets her Inspector Gamache series in the hamlet of Three Pines.

It’s an area where forested hills and gentle valleys, honestly quaint villages just like Three Pines (hopefully without the murders), and a variety of outdoor fun awaits. Such as …

Well, a happy spectrum from biking and hiking, horseback riding, parachuting, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing, downhill skiing at Owl’s Head and Mont Sutton, and more.

And let’s not forget le terroir (fresh, local foods) that Quebec is justly famous for. Foodies can drop in anywhere, or try the wine route (La Route des Vins de l’Estrie), the English Tea route, or opt for Bromont’s chocolate festival in late May.

But what particularly grabbed our attention last winter was Hok skiing.

It happened along Au Diable Vert’s forested trails near Sutton, Que. Owner Jeremy Fontana asked us whether we’d ever done it.

“If you’re just getting back into skiing after your shoulder injury, you’ll find they’re easy to manage. You can climb any hill and then glide down. Sweet!”

I had just told him I was recovering after an injury and tendonitis, not quite ready for cross-country skis yet. Eric and I had our snowshoes for Au Diable Vert’s trail network.

But why not give the Hoks – a hybrid between skis and snowshoes – a go, Fontana suggested?

“At 1.5 metres they’re short, broad, feature a handy universal binding and have skins on their base, so you can easily climb any of our wooded trails. I bet once you try them, you’ll buy a pair. They’re great for breaking trail in our wooded hills because they’re like a hybrid between skis and snowshoes.”

The “skin” is a piece of synthetic fur on their base, allowing skiers to ascend mountains without wax and then glide downhill. We loved them. I want some for Christmas.

Fontana’s was right: they’re perfect for action on his 130-hectare property. When the day is done, you can stay overnight in whimsical (have to see them to believe it) cabins in the forest. From some visitors, the attraction is the panorama of ridge upon ridge of forested mountains extending to the horizon. His 14 kilometres of private trails connect to 65 more in the Sutton Environmental Park network and in Sentiers de l’Estrie.

Putting on the Hoks is easy, step in and fasten bindings which resemble contemporary snowshoe gear. Then we were off, poling through a meadow’s deep powder drifts. With no one to impress, we stopped often, absorbing the views, then entered the verge of the forest where posted maps explain the trail network.

We did the 14 kilometres, crossing several fancifully built bridges – all worth a selfie because they’re so creatively functional.

The cabins are equally original. Some are on stilts overlooking a valley; one is igloo-shaped; but our hands-down fave reminded us of that English nursery rhyme about the crooked man who walked a crooked mile and lived in “a little crooked house.”

Accommodations are rustic. No electricity or plumbing. Free firewood for the wood stove. Bring sleeping bags, food, and gear as if you were camping. To get to the cabins, many guests haul sleds piled with food, water, and gear. Otherwise, staff bring everything on a 4WD vehicle and light the stove so it’s warm when you arrive.

For serenity, for the Hok ski experiment, for the thrill of new trails, Au Diable Vert’s hard to beat.

But it doesn’t end there. Picturesque Sutton and vicinity has more.

We snowshoed Plein Air Sutton Cooperative’s private trails. Blessed with a postcard-perfect, blue-sky day and deep powder snow, we discovered turns in the trail that

WEBSITES

• Eastern Townships Tourism: easterntownships.org • Sutton (including Plein Air Sutton.coop): http://infosutton.com • Le Pleasant Hotel and Café: lepleasant.com/en • Musée du Chocolat de Bromont: lemuseeduchocolatdelaconfiseriebromont.com.

Come back in spring for the chocolate festival, May 16-24 • Balnea Spa: balnea.ca

afforded breathtaking views of the mountains. In a few hours we met only four other skiers, a population density we prefer to crowds.

The Co-op offers 32 kilometres of groomed cross-country trails, 26 classic and six backcountry. Rustic shelters with outhouses and wood stoves for heating and cooking are available. Unlike Au Diable Vert, we packed I offer counselling services for both individuals and couples in either English or French. Services are provided in a professional and welcoming atmosphere that is fully confidential. Anxiety Chronic illness Depression Loss and bereavement Men and Intimacy Relationship distress Spiritual concerns Self-esteem Suicidal ideation Trauma Work-related anxiety

our gear in and out on our own. These are reservable Adirondack-style shared spaces, with six rudimentary bunks. You may be alone or sharing with others.

Returning to the starting point’s circa 1840 log cabin which acts as a visitor’s centre, we appreciated the wood stove heat sinking into our bones. Delicious – just like the coffee. Skis and snowshoes can be rented here.

Nonetheless, some prefer softer beds. Enter Michel Gagné and Bertin Jacques’ Le Pleasant Hotel and Café in Sutton where we enjoyed a quiet, comfortable stay and terrific terroir. Gagné and Jacques know all the best spots, and we had coffee at Le Cafetier Sutton, one of many “Cafés de Village.”

Jacques explained these Cafés comprise an Eastern Townships network for locals and visitors to enjoy terroir in a convivial ambience. We had visited one in nearby Bromont – the Musée du Chocolat – so we looked forward to a similar treat in Sutton.

Talking about comfort, spas ease sore muscles and in Bromont we tried Balnea Spa. Go. After outdoor adventures? Blissful! 

MARCH 16 –17, 2013 ERNst & young centre, ottawa

Revive the heart of your home!

Cross-country skiers on a trail at Plein Air Sutton Co-operative.

I offer counselling services for both individuals and couples rené VandenBeRG couNsELLiNg sERvicEs in either English or French. Services are provided in a professional and welcoming atmosphere that is fully confidential. Indoor Golf Club • • Anxiety

Chronic illness • Depression • Loss and bereavement • Men and Intimacy • Relationship distress•

Spiritual concerns• Winter fun skiing and snowboarding for all levels. • Self-esteem• Suicidal ideation• Trauma• We offer great discounts on trips, ski passes, and lessons at local hills and stores. • Work-related anxiety• Visit our website or come and meet us at one of golf league functions or just a rvcounselling.ca 613.850.1012 our pubnights. www.skiextreme.ca National Capital National Capital

Family Skiing Made Affordable

photographic who’ve played unbelievable!

National Capital Ski Club Family Skiing Made Affordable

Ski Club Ski Club cartoon courses • Discounted lift tickets at local • Discounted lifttickets atlocal

CPGA pro simulators big screen us! tv • • • • • • • hills and Tremblant Full season equipment rentals for kids and adults Discounted group lessons Weekly day trips to Tremblant Discounted Tremblant Weekends Discounts for Goods & Services 2015 Ski Vacations (Vermont, BC, etc...) Annual Membership – $27 Jim Norris Real Estate Broker Keller Williams Solid Rock 1 Antaries Drive, Suite 110 o) 613.733.3434 c) 613.769.7147

REAL ESTATE BROKER

hills and Tremblant • Full season equipment rentals (adults & kids) • Discounted group lessons • Weeklydaytrips (Wed) toTremblant • Discounted TremblantWeekends • Discounts forGoods & Services • 2014 Ski Vacations (France, BC, etc.) • Annual Membership only$30

www.ncskiclub.ca www.NCSkiClub.ca

Chateau Montebello FOR après-ski atmosphere, the outdoor enthusiast can choose from 70 kms of cross-country ski trails; dogsledding; snowshoeing or skating with the family. Afterwards, cozy-up by the famous towering six-side stone fireplace where you can relax with a nice book or conversation.

Only 1hr away, you can visit their website at: