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Cross-country skiing at Mer Bleue Bog
Nordic Skiing
Trails for young and old just around the corner Cross-country skiing at Mer Bleue Bog
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By Heather Burke
GOT A CRAVING FOR cross-country skiing but only have a couple of hours to spare?
No need to drive all the way to Gatineau Park when Mer Bleue Bog is just a hop, skip and ski away. It’s the perfect location for skiers who enjoy a sweet cruise through the forest without risking life and limb.
Mer Bleue was born 9,000 years ago when giant chunks of Ontario were rebounding from the weight of the glaciers. One of the Ottawa River’s tributaries elevated in the process, but some of the water remains. The underlying clay in the area prevented drainage, and a wetland was formed. Plants flourishing along the edges died and accumulated until the oxygen was cut off.
Here comes the bog part: the organisms that normally break down plant matter couldn’t survive and the vegetation piled up even more. The sitting water became acidic from sphagnum moss and conditions became even harsher. At that point the plants ran rampant and became the only things that could survive the conditions. The result: Ottawa has its very own internationally significant wetland, but who knew?
Most bog plants lie low and are buried by snow in the winter. But, looking out over the bog, you’ll see windswept black spruce and what appear to be a lot of dead evergreens. Those trees aren’t really dead — they’re tamaracks (larch), which are one of the only conifers to lose their needles in the fall. The word “tamarack” is borrowed from Algonquin aboriginals who labelled it as “wood used for snowshoes.”
You don’t actually ski on the bog at Mer Bleue. Groomers don’t belong on the sensitive ecosystem. The National Capital Commission doesn’t recommend skiing on any wetland. Freeze-ups are unreliable where there is underground seepage or movement of water. There is a good chance of breaking through, and besides, skis don’t glide that well with a build-up of frozen slush on the base. And if that isn’t enough of a deterrent, the bog water can stink! Trust me.
Skiing the wide open bog can get nasty on a biting cold day, too, so it’s better to stick to the sheltered forests. Just as well, since the groomed trails at Mer Bleue are on two heavily wooded ridges with some scenic vistas of the bog below. At the same time the Ottawa River was running through Mer Bleue all those years ago, the Dolman and Borthwick ridges were islands in that river. They clung to the sand and gravel as the glacial meltwaters rushed towards the sea. The marked trails are accessible from Dolman Ridge and Ridge roads.
The sandy ridges have evolved to support a mixture of mature white pine, maple and ash, as well as second-growth poplar and shrubs. Snow hangs like overstuffed pillows on sheltered evergreens. Birdfeeders are maintained at several places along the trails and the nuthatches and chickadees have learned to ignore interlopers on skis. Lots of deer and rabbit tracks hint at what skiers might see if they travel quietly with grace. A chance meeting with these timid forest creatures will most likely occur during an early morning or evening ski outing.
The trails cutting through the forest are well-marked and easily followed. Some are narrow and rolling; others are wide, flat and double-tracked, groomed by spirited volunteers from the Orleans Nordic Ski Club. The strip between the two tracks is packed down and usually suitable for skate skiing.
Compared with the trendiness of Gatineau Park, Mer Bleue is a low-key ski destination with less spandex and more wool. The mostly flat terrain with occasional rolling bumps to keep things interesting is perfect for beginners. There
Getting to Mer Bleue is easy if you have directions, but signage along the way is subtle. Watch for and follow directions on the small, beige signs — apparently Ottawa’s internationally significant wetlands aren’t big tourist attractions.
Take Highway 417 to Blair Road south to Innes Road.
Turn left and proceed to the next set of lights at Anderson Road. Turn right and follow Anderson Road past the sharp right turn it makes at Renaud and follow for 3 – 4.5 kilometres (depending on which parking lot you want).
THE TRAILS
Parking lot 19 links you up with the most extensive trail system – three loops (50, 51, and 52) for a total of 12.6 kilometres. Washrooms and picnic area available. Trails are groomed. Parking lot 20 (one kilometre down Dolman Ridge Road) provides a different access point to the same trail system as parking lot 19. In addition, the one kilometer Dewberry Trail is available in winter for snowshoeing. No washrooms available.
Parking lot 21 gives you access to a 6.7-kilomatre loop trail (53 and 53A). When selecting your trail, keep in mind 53A is winter-only — too wet for summer hiking. No washrooms available.
are a few longer, steeper hills where the trails descend from the ridges to the edge of the bog below. Kids love to run those hills over and over until parents bribe them with the promise of hot chocolate further down the trail.
The beauty of Mer Bleue hills lies in their ability to forgive — the run-offs are long, wide and clear. By contrast, Gatineau Park skiers are often faced with a narrow trail on a steep curve with lots of pointy trees at the bottom. (Full disclosure: this criticism refers mostly to the expert trails in Gatineau Park).
The Mer Bleue trails aren’t rated for difficulty and there are no expert trails. There aren’t even any intermediate trails. Mer Bleue is easy gliding all the way, and every now and then, that’s exactly what you want.
— Heather Burke is a regular contributor to Ottawa Outdoors Magazine.
MAPS • An all-seasons trail map of Ottawa’s Greenbelt is available for purchase from the National Capital Infocentre across from Parliament Hill. You can also download a PDF version from the NCC website at: www.capcan.ca/ greenbelt/_pdf/greenbelt_map.pdf • The print on the PDF file appears very small, but it may provide sufficient orientation before heading out. Skiers aren’t likely to get lost skiing at Mer Bleue. There are also maps posted at each trailhead.
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