From the Editor

Published Seasonally

PUBLISHER

Outdoor Japan G.K.

DIRECTORS

Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson

FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Gardner Robinson

MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR

Rie Miyoshi

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Bill Ross

CONTRIBUTORS

Joan Bailey, Alena Eckelmann, Quinlan Faris, Trent Maxwell, Daniel Moore, Lee Reeve, The Naked Stranger, Derek Yamashita

DESIGN

Outdoor Japan

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K.

45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728

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SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS

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From the Editor

It’s been a long three and a half years, but Japan is back. The wait is finally over for independent travelers and tourism-related businesses. We’d hoped for a decision earlier this summer so airlines had time to increase flights to meet demand, but Japan is conservative when it comes to risk and public safety, it’s part of the fabric of society and one of the many reasons we love living here. This conservative approach, however, paved the way for some head scratching decisions, pseudo openings and knee-jerk reactions that frustrated travelers and travel professionals alike. Ironically, the weak yen may have been the blessing in disguise that forced the government to turn to tourism—an industry that felt like the sacrifi cial lamb—to restart the economy.

And so we celebrate the restart, the relief and autumn travel this issue with some old friends. We venture down south to see Bruce Dillon, founder of Hata Surf Dojo and one of our first outdoor operators in Outdoor Japan back in the early 2000s. Bruce has been teaching surfi ng on the shores of Kochi for decades and he’s created a laid-back vibe at his base in Hata.

We also caught up with award-winning author Alex Kerr while in Shikoku. When I came to Japan in the late 90’s one of the fi rst books I read was “Lost Japan.” I remember being enthralled by Alex’s knowledge and insight and amazed he had originally wrote it in Japanese (and won a Japanese literary award), then translated the book into English. It was a pleasure finally meeting Alex before he joined OJ contributors Daniel Moore and Trent Maxwell for a historical walk on part of Shikoku’s sacred henro pilgrimage.

We then head north as Quinlan Faris takes us to the active volcano known as Nanbu Kata Fuji, or more commonly, Mt. Iwate, for some spectacular early fall hiking. Down in Niigata’s Echigo Plains, Derek Yamashita takes us on a cultural tour of Tsubame Sanjo’s “open factories” where artisans produce some of the finest metalware in the world in their never ending search for perfection.

While many of us have been dreaming of traveling the last few years, solo (human-powered) adventure traveler Norio Sasaki has ventured to the ends of the earth, pulling his nearly 80-kilogram bicycle-drawn cart along the way. Sasaki shares some of the beautiful images of his journeys and how his hunt for landscapes keeps him hungry for more.

Finally it’s a bittersweet issue as we say farewell—for now—to our long-time contributor, Joan Bailey, who’s Market Watch column has become a favorite for readers interested in organic farms and farmer’s markets. If you missed any of her columns, be sure to check out archives and back issues at OutdoorJapan.com. We wish her the best and will miss her contributions, while welcoming back The Naked Stranger who returns from the shadows to share his latest off-beat onsen adventures.

Autumn is the season of gratitude and we our grateful for our readers, the resilience of our friends and colleagues in Japan tourism these past few years and we are grateful that free, independent travel is back, so let’s not take it for granted. Every season is a new adventure in Japan, get out there and discover yours!

—Gardner Robinson

Editor-in-Chief

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BY JOAN BAILEY

The Ike-Sun Park Farmers Market is a delicious oasis that appears every Saturday and Sunday near Higashi-Ikebukuro year-round. Nearly 20 vendors serve up everything from fresh organic produce to rice and chiffon cake as well as assorted pickles, freshly-made sandwiches, and artisan coffee. It is a true treasure trove of foodie delights.

According to Keisuke Watanabe, a member of the local Business Support Office, the market was founded in December 2020 to bring United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to life in the area. He estimates the market attracts roughly 1,000 people each weekend despite the pandemic shutdowns. At ten tents long and four tens wide the market is an impromptu covered shopping street where guests and vendors can gather rain or shine.

Kiyoshi Tonegawa of PiyoPiyo Farm in Saitama Prefecture is one of several organic farmers present each weekend. He began farming eleven years ago while feeling dissatisfied with his life as an academic. He started working on his father’s hobby farm while he figured things out and discovered his calling. Tonegawa comes bearing the bounty of each season such as zucchini and patty pan squash in early summer and kale, squash, and hearty greens as temperatures cool. Fresh and dried herbs dot the table here and there, and his unique blend of fl owers and herbs for tea is nearly irresistible.

Next door to Tonegawa’s stall another organic farmer, Satoru Kawase, makes the trip into the city from Saitama Prefecture once a month. Jars of bright orange carrot juice form a vivid backdrop for his colorful array of small salad radishes, purple kohlrabi, and lush-leaved daikon. Farming for just five years, he shares recipes and chats with the steady stream of customers snapping up his vegetables as quickly as he lays them out.

Fresh bread, rolls, and other treats can also be found, and not least among these is the chiffon cake from Little Square Café. “I used to hate chiffon cake,” confides owner and baker, Somin Kim, “until I tried one made on the stovetop instead of the oven.” According to Kim, the method using a covered baking pan on the stove produces a moister and better-flavored cake. Each week, she brings along six fl avors: chocolate, vanilla, Earl Grey, pumpkin, café au lait, and the most popular, yomogi (mugwort). “It’s my grandmother’s favorite,” Kim smiles. “It’s perfect.”

Coffee, sandwiches, pickles, rice, miso, and other foods also abound. Shoppers will fi nd a delightful selection of unrelated, but mutually beneficial, food carts nearby for further exploration. In addition, Eat Good Place, a restaurant in the park serving meals made from fresh, organic ingredients is only steps away.

IKE-SUN PARK FARMERS MARKET

7-minute walk from Higashi-Ikebukuro 7-minute walk from Higashi-Ikebukuro Station or 11-minute walk from Ootsuka Station Saturday and Sunday, Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

farmers-ikesun.jp

JAPAN IN CIDERIN

BY LEE REEVE

Over the years, cider has evolved from its original tradition, of being simply fermented of being simply fermented apple juice, to new styles apple juice, to new styles and a continual deliverance and a continual deliverance of experimental blends. of experimental blends. Like its counterpart, craft Like its counterpart, craft beer, the arrival of autumn beer, the arrival of autumn signals the release of signals the release of special seasonal offerings to the ever-changing cider landscape.

One of the latest to hit Japan is Australian import Rhubarbarella from Derwent Valley Cider in Victoria. It’s a limited release Imperial Apple and Rhubarb cider coming in with an ABV of 8%. This very popular drink combines fruity apple with rhubarb sour and a touch of vanilla to create something that’s reminiscent of Turkish delight.

For those with less exotic tastes, there are also vintage-styled ciders like Gold Rush #8 and Pomona Rolling Season Blend (2018), both from Oliver’s Fine Cider out of

BEER BUZZ

Herefordshire, England. You can find them at Tokyo shops that carry cider or online at Japan Cider Market (japancidermarket.com). On the domestic side, seasonal ciders are also becoming part of the yearly line-up. One such cidermaker is VinVie in Southern Nagano, whose offerings include hopped, spiced and vermut ciders. Their ciders can be ordered online at vinvie.jp (Japanese only).

Lee Reeve is an international cider consultant and the publisher of inCiderJapan, Asia’s first and only bilingual magazine dedicated to all things cider. Lee often presents at international cider events about Japan’s cider history, growing industry and current scene. He also imports and distributes world-class ciders in Japan.

The 2022 American Craft Beer Experience (ACBE) Japan is back Nov. 12-13 at the Waters Takeshiba Outdoor Event Space. Organized by the American Brewers Association, the popular event has been absent from the calendar the last two years, but it will be making a triumphant return at this cool venue. Visit waters-takeshiba.jp for access and follow them at facebook.com/ACBEjapan to learn more about the great selection of American breweries participating.

Earlier this year, Yokohama’s TDM 1874 brewery opened the Shimokitazawa Taproom adding another place to enjoy their award-winning brews besides their brewpub location in Tokaichiba, Yokohama. The Shimokitazawa Taproom will be hosting a Craft Beer Festival slated for Nov. 4-6 with other selected breweries. Follow them for more information on the event coming soon at tdm1874brewery.com/pages/ brewpub02.

Former Baird brewmaster Chris Poel has been busy at his Shiokaze BrewLab. When not gypsy brewing around Japan he’s serving up a great selection at his Shiokaze BrewStand Soba in Chiba, which opened in 2020, and now he’s planning to open his second location, the Shiokaze BrewStand Kemigawahama in October. Find out more at shiokazebrewlab.com.

Some great craft beer from the mainland is making its way to Okinawa Island in November, when The Okinawa Bottle Shop opens up. The small shop in Yomitan will feature selected fresh craft beer from around Japan, including local Okinawa beers, as well as showcase other selected craft beer, cider and refreshments. The location in the center of Okinawa Island means fresh beer is never far away. Check for updates and the offi cial opening date at okinawabottleshop.com.